IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


33  W^ST  :■'■^^H  STRUT 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MSSO 

(716)  873-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Instltut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historlques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographique? 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


□ 
□ 
D 
D 
D 
D 
D 

n 


n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 

Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommagde 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur6e  et/ou  pellicul6e 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  g^ographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  {i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli^  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serree  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouttes 
lors  dune  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte. 
mais,  lorsque  cela  dtait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  film^es. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliogiaphique,  q^ii  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvant  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mdthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquds  ci-dessous. 


D 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 


I — I    Pages  damaged/ 


Pages  endommagdes 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restauries  et/ou  pelliculdes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxe< 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachetdes  ou  piquies 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtachies 


I — I    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
r~~y  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
I      I    Pages  detached/ 


r~7]    Showthrough/ 


D 


Transparence 

Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  in^gale  de  I'impression 


r~~]    Includes  supplementary  material/ 


D 
0 


Comprend  du  material  supplementaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  film^es  d  nouveau  de  fapon  & 
obtenir  la  moilleure  image  possible. 


The 
to  t 


Thfl 
poi 
oft 
filnr 


Orii 
befl 
the 
sioi 
oth 
firs 
sioi 
or  i 


Thi 
sha 
TIW 
wh 

Ma 
difl 
ent 
be( 
rigl 
req 
me 


n 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commer  ^aires  suppl^mentaires; 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film^  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu*  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

/ 

17X 

1BX 

20X 

24X 

28X 

32X 

The  copy  filmed  h«r«  has  baan  raproducad  thanks 
to  thto  ganarosity  of: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 


L'axamplaira  film*  fut  raproduit  grica  A  la 
gAnArosit*  da: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 


Tha  Imagas  appaaring  hara  ara  tha  bast  quality 
possibia  considaring  tha  condition  and  lagibility 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  kaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  spacifications. 


Las  imagas  suivantas  ont  *t*  raproduitas  avac  la 
plus  grand  soin,  compta  tanu  da  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattat*  da  l'axamplaira  film*,  at  Bn 
conformit*  avac  las  conditions  du  contrat  da 
filmaga. 


Original  copias  in  printad  papar  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — *>  (meaning    CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  exemplairas  originaux  dont  la  couvarture  en 
papier  est  imprim*e  sont  film*s  en  comnianpant 
par  la  premier  plat  at  an  terminant  soit  par  la 
darniAre  page  qui  comporta  una  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration.  soit  par  la  second 
plat,  salon  la  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplairas 
originaux  sont  film*s  en  commen^ant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporta  una  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'HIustraiion  at  en  terminant  par 
la  derni*re  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
darniAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  -^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,    ableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  *tre 
film*s  *  des  taux  de  reduction  diff*rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  *tre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich*,  il  est  film*  *  partir 
de  Tangle  8up*rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  *  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'imagas  n*cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m*thode. 


1 

2 

3 

1  2  3 

4  5  6 


y 


JTisszsa 


UNITED  STT^TES  CO-AST  SXJB,VEY. 

BENJAMIN  I'EIKCE,  Supciiuteudeut. 


PACIFIC    COAST. 


COAST  PILOT 


OF 


CALIFORNIA,    OREGON, 


AND 


WASHINGTON   TEREITOKY. 


m 


GEORQE    DAVIDSON, 

ASSISTANT    COAST    S  l' II  V  K  Y  . 


1869. 


WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT     PRINTING     OFFICE 
1869. 


Y\LO 

'Jon 


?p 


INTriODrCTORY. 


IJ.'fon.  tl...  iu-quisition  of  Califon.ia  by  tl...  T^nit,.,l  Sfnfos,  rmnpan.tivrly  liuio 
Avns  known  of  Uw  l.,vdro;.n.,,l,y  and  ^-vonraphy  of  its  cast,  rxrrpt  l,v  th,-  f.nv 
i.av,i,atorstn.<lin;.alono-  its  soa  board,  or  the  daiiny  otter  hunter,  laniiliar  uith 
every  eove,  roek,  and  lieadhiiul. 

In  th.'  loliowin-  i)a-es  it  is  proposed  to  state  all  that  is  known  at  the  present 

tune  of  th,.  Paeilic  coast  of  the   Unite.l   States,  Iron,   the  sontluMn   bo.n.darv  of 

Cahfornia,  in  latitude  ;!i»o  ;}-  to  the  northern  boun.hny  of  Washinj^ton  Territorv 

la  latitude   MP,  ,.n.braeinj,^  : eean  shore-line  of  over  three  thous 1  one  hun' 

dml  and  twenty  n.iles,  divided  as  tbllows:  Calilbrnia,   inebnlin.  the   ish.n.l  of 

Santa  I5urbara  Channel,  one  thousand  and  ninety-seven  n.iles;  O.e-on,  two  hun 

dred  and  eij-hty-tive  n.iles;  Wasl.i,.oton  T.Tritory,  im-lndin;,-  isl Is  in  Washi,...-. 

ton  Sound  and  shores  of  ruf-et  Sound,  o,.e  tho.isan.l  sev,-n  hund.vd  and  thirtv- 
eijjht  iniies. 

AN'hatever  has  .,ot  eon.e  under  our  own  eritieism  will  be  taken  fro..i  the  p.ib- 
lished  I'eports  and  maps  of  the  Coast  Survey. 

The  nai.ies  adoj.ted  will  be  those  n.ost  ivliable. 

Uhe.e  any  known  ehano-es  have  taken  plaeethev  will  be  stated 

AVheie  any  position  is  «ive,.  to  the  nearest  ,..i,..Ue  o..ly,  it  has  been  taken 
Iron,  the  latest  chart  of  the  Coast  Survey. 

The  lou,,!(,uh'.  is  reckoi.cd  west  fro.n  rj.-eenwich.  Tables  and  exaTn,.les  -n-e 
lutroducedtoshowthcnannerof  predh-tinf,-  the  tin.es  a..d  height  of  hi^h  a„,l 
low  waters  at  San  Francis<'o  and  other  haibois. 

t<omuUn,iH  are  given  for  the  mean  of  the  lower  low  waters. 

Jlmriiufs  are  niaHiU'tic. 

7>/.v^f«rr.v  are  exp.-essed  in -oofrraphical  (nautical)  miles 

J>c>.'nj>,ions  of  ln,ht-housc.,foo-heUs,  Ouoys,  ct..,  arc-  tVon.  the  p,.blished  ..otices 
ot  the  t.ight-house  IJoard. 


Uiig 


COAST  OF  LOWER  CALIFORNIA. 


(W  flic  wost'Tii  const,  iit  incjiiil;!!'  tlistiiiin's,  (hen'  jippciirs  to  1m>  ii  liiiiti*'  of 


siihiiiiii'inc  iiioinitiiJiis,  wliosc  siiinniits,  i 


isllij;'   o( 


ciisioinillv  iiltoxc   llic  \v;ilci',  foiiii 


islands,  and,  ni-ariny;  ilii-  snrlat'i'  at  otlr-r  points,  I'oini  dan;;rioiis  and  oxtiMisive 
banks. 

One  of  these  last  is  a  ltanl<  very  similar  to  tlie  ("oifes  I>ank,*ainl,  jjossihly,  an 
pxtonsion  <>r  it  to  llie  southeastward  of  tlie  hitter,  and  ih'si^iiiated  tiie  ••  liaiieo 
Cortes"  on  tin'  Freiieh  chart  Xo.  lilltT.  L'pon  the  latest  I'.iitish  Adniiiaily  charts 
it  is  not  noted.  The  shoalest  part  of  the  hank  has  ten  lathonis  npon  it  in  three 
spots  situated  lietween  latitudes  :\\o  X','  and  .IP  l.'!',  and  lon;.'itudes  IIS^  II'  and 
1  liSO  r»2',  hcinji  nearly  southeast  hy  south  quartei'  south,  tit'ty miles  from  the  IJishop 
Jiock.  IJut  as  nioi'c  detailed  examinations  may  diseitver  such  dan;;ers  as  were 
found  ujton  the  orij;inal  Cortes  IJan'.,  it  will  he  well  tor  na\  i.natois  to  avoid  pass- 
iuf"'  over  the  shoalest  localities. 

It  lies  in  the  direct  route  of  the  steamships  lunninii'  between  San  I'rancisco 
and  ^lexical!  ptuts  and  I'anama,  .ind,  as  laid  down,  is  very  extensive,  the  area 
within  the  twenty  fathom  line  bein;;  thi'ce  thousand  scjuare  miles,  an<l  within  the 
flftoeii-fathom  line  about  one  thousand  live  hundred  sipiare  miles.  The  thirty- 
fathom  li' icxteiids  nearly  ten  miles  outside  the  t wenty fathom  line;  wiiilst  the 
deejM'st  soundings  between  the  ban!;  and  the  ba\  of  Toclos  Santos  aie  only  forty 
fathoms. 

l'pon  the  Si)anish  chart  of  lS(i.?  of  this  coast  the  shoal  is  evidently  laid  down 
too  far  to  the  westward,  and  it  is  probable  the  same  error  nniy  exist  in  the  Fii'in-li 
chart,  for  in  December  IStJO,  no  sountlinys  were  obtaiiu'd  upon  it  with  two  hun- 
dred fathoms  of  line.  Throujuh  the  enterprise  of  Captain  ICldrid^ic,  ,i;;ent  td"  the 
I'acitic  ^fail  ('ompany,  and  in  concert  with  Cajitain  Lapid<;<',  of  the  steamer  (bihlen 
(late,  on  the  voyaji*'  from  San  Kranciseo  to  Tanama  we  lan  a  line  of  voundin;;s 
thirty  miles  in  lenjith  across  the  fiiven  locality.  The  weather  was  cloudranil  ih) 
observations  «'ould  be  obtained  alter  leavinj;  San  I'lancisco ;  1  ut  the  depijrture  of 
the  vessel  was  obtained  from  the  western  point  ot  the  island  of  San  .Miguel,  and 
a  course  laid  a«'ross  the  assigned  )»osition  of  ten  tal  horn  sounding; 


Tl 


w  sea  was 


smooth  so  that  w»'  leadily  delected  the  ;;round  swell  on  the  cdn'e  of  the  Cortes 
Shoal,  an<l  when  abri'ast  of  the  •>  IJanco  Cortes"  also  fell  a  uiound  swell  for  a 
short  time,  but  found  no  bottom,  as  above  stated.  The  western  ed;;e  of  the  bank 
may  drop  otf  nunc  ((uickly  than  is  indicated  by  the  chart,  and  the  vessel  may  have 
been  set  oil"  shore  by  a  current  fnun  the  Santa  iiarbara  <'hannel.  We  subse- 
quently had  no  observations  for  i>osition  for  some  da.\s. 

This  bnidv,  witii  the  islands  northward,  an*l  the  islands  an<l  rocks  southward, 
iifVords  another  evidence  of  a  submarim*  ran;;e  parallel  with  the  coast  nnaintains. 

I'or  ilcNrrijitiuii  of  till'  ('mil's  llniili  sec  \Miic  'i7. 


6 


COAST  IMLOT  OK  ('AI-IK()I!NI A. 


LOS  COK'ONADOS. 

TIiOH<'  isliiiidH  Ih'Iu!!"'  to  l\ri'\i('o,  lie  iilioiit  s«'V«'ii  iiiilcM  off  tlic  coasf,  jiikI 
iK'iiily  cii^lit  miles  soiilli  of  tlir  boniKlary  iK'twccii  Mcxicit  iiiul  tlic  ('iiitrd  Stiitcs. 

Tlif.v  ronri  ii  ^roiip  ot°  lii;;li,  hold,  iiiid  iiltnipt  rorks  iinil  isli-ts,  of  wliicli  tlin 
liir^icst  is  lil'tt'cn  iiiih'S  south  hy  cast  fVoiii  I'oiiit  Loiiin,  iihoni  oiw  iiiitl  (iv«'fi;,'hlhs 
mile  ill  length  hy  one  third  of  a  mile  in  hreadth,  and  lyin,t;  in  a  northwest  and 
southeast  direction.  It  is  a  wedjyeshaped  mass,  lisiii;;'  to  ahout  live  hiiiKlred  and 
seventy  live  feet  ahove  the  sea,  the  siirtaee  haviii}--  some  earth  upon  it,  hut  entirely 
d<'stitute  of  trees.  A  few  small  shruhs  exist,  and  duriiij''  the  rainy  season  the  soil 
is  covered  with  j^rass,  and  a  avvnt  almndaiice  of  j;audily-colored  wild  tlowers 
showiu;*'  in  patches  of  oraujrc,  pui'ide,  and  yellow,  when  seen  from  the  ",vatcr. 
J)urin;i'  the  dry  season  «'vcrythin;j,'  is  withered,  and  the  islet  presents  a  stcrilti 
appearance.     Cacti  and  other  plants  liiow  amoii;n-  tlie  rocks. 

Tiicrc  is  an  a!ich(»raj;'e  about  oue-((uarter  of  a  mile  to  the  eastward  of  tho 
islet,  and  hut  one  laiidin.n'  jilace;  even  there  the  ascent  is  dilliciilt  for  lifty  feet, 
and  Ihcncc  easy  to  the  crest,  about  half  a  mile  distant. 

The  j;('oj;raphical  position  of  the  hiyhest  point,  as  dotcrinincd  by  the  Coast 
Survey,  is: 


TiOtitude ;{2    2;{    40  north 


Lonjiitude 


117     i;{     LM  west. 


Or,  in   time 


4S 


On  the  west  and  iiortliwest  sides  of  the  islet,  aiul  about  half  a  mile  distant, 
lie  two  smaller  ones,  or  ratiier  two  masses  of  rocks  about  titty  feet  hijjjh,  ami  des- 
titute of  vc^'ctation.  Tliey  arc  a  favorite  reso't  for  the  eiiorimms  sea  t'lephaiits. 
Excellent  anchoiaye  is  saitl  to  \w  found  in  the  vicinity.  The  smaller  of  the  two 
]U'omiiiciit  islets  is  about  half  a  mile  in  leiiji'th,  and  lies  north  oS^  west  from 
the  larjicr,  distant  two  and  three-eiyhths  miles.  It  is  a  hu;;e,  barren  rock,  with 
Aery  sharp  summit. 

In  coininj^-  from  the  south,  this  group  atVords  a  pood  mark  for  niakinj;'  San 
Diefjo,  although  before  beinj?  uj)  with  them,  Point  Loma  shows  distinctly. 

Lo.s  Coronados  were  discovered  by  .Juan  l{odrijiue/,  Cabrillo  in  l.TlL*,  and 
named  by  Viscaino  in  KJtti',  in  honor  of  Francisco  Ctuonado,  j;overnor  of  the 
province  of  Xalisco.  under  Cortes.  . 


PACIFIC  COAST  OF  THE  UNITFD  STATES. 


CAMFOKNIA. 


Tlic  iiiiiiic  Cjiliroiiiiii  is  (irsf  round  in  tlic  wortlilcss  it»in;iii(«-  »*  l.as  Scr^iiis  of 
Ks))liiii<liiiii,"  tlir  son  of  Annnlis  of  (iiinl.  written  In  (liinia  Onion*-/.  il<>  Montiilvo, 
the  tninsliilor  of  the  Aininlis.  It  was  tiist  ininlnl  in  l.'ilO,  with  <-<litions  in  I'tl'.i, 
l.'c'l,  l.VJ.'i,  l."»J(;,  (two,)  I."i7."»,  l."»S7,  nn«l  the  riTcnt  it-print  of  IS.'d.* 

Tin-  niinif  a|»|M'iirs  in  nnnn-rons  jiassiifjcs,  of  wliicli  the  lollowiny  arc  i^ivcn  : 

"  Know  tliat,  on  the  ri;,'lit  liantl  of  the  inilics,  very  ni-ar  to  tlic  Tfircsliial 
Paradise,  tlicrc  is  an  island  called  < 'alilornia,  wliidi  was  peopled  with  hlaek  women, 
wit  hold  any  men  ainony  them,  because  they  were  aceuslomed  to  live  alter  the 
i'ashion  of  Amazons.'' 

''  In  this  island  called  ('..Mlornia  ai'c  many  (iritlins,  on  acconnt  ol'  tlic 
^rcat  savayxMiess  oC  the  country,  anil  the  ininu'iise  quantity  of  wild  j;ame  found 
tlioro." 

"is'ow,  in  the  time  that  those  ;^reat  im-n  <»f  the  l*a;;aiis  sailed  |aj;ainst  Con- 
staiitinoi»le|  with  those  yreat  llects  of  winch  I  have  told  you,  there  reigned  in 
this  land  of  California  a  (jueen,  large  of  'lody,  very  beautiful,  in  the  jtrime  of  her 
years,"  iS;c.,  iK:e. 

Tlu!  name  Califoiiiia  next  o»'cnrs  in  the  memoirs  of  the  coiM|uistadoi',  IJcrnal 
Diaz  del  Castillo,  who  served  with  Coitcs  in  the  contjuest  of  .Mexico,  lie  writes 
that  "Cortes  a;;ain  set  sail  trom  Santa  Cruz  and  discovered  the  coast  of  Cali 
Ibrnia.'  Here  Cortes  remained  for  some  time,  disheartened  at  tlie  want  of  success 
of  his  various  expeditions.  The  viceroy,  Mendoza,  despatched  a  vessel  under  the 
connnand  of  Ulloa  with  letters  to  Cortes.  "  L'lloa  had  a  most  fav(»rabie  vovayc, 
and  soon  arrived  in  the  harbor  where  Cortes  lay  at  anchor.  The  letters  of  his 
wife  and  those  of  his  children,  and  of  tlu^  viceroy,  had  so  much  ell'eet  ui»on  him  that 
lie  }iave  the  command  of  his  vessel  to  Clloa,  embarUed  for  Acapulco,  and,  when 
he  had  arrived  here,  he  hastened  to  Quaidinahuac,  where  his  wife  icsided. 
*  •  *  Shortly  after,  also,  the  trooi)s  arrived  wliich  had  been  left  behind  in  Cali 
lornia." 

After  a  lew  month.s' repose  Corti's  sent  out  a  more  considerable  expedition, 
under  command  of  Ulloa.  "This  armament  left  the  harbor  de  la  ^N'atividad  in  the 
month  of  June  of  one  thousand  live  hundred  and  thirty,  and  so  many  years — I 
foryet  the  exact  year."' 

The  California  referred  to  above  is  the  peiunsula  of  that  nann-,  j^HMU'rally 


*Tlic  riill  (itlcof  tlif  liook  is  "  Las  Srr;;ii,s  di'l  SIcy  I'lslorziido  Calialt'in  llsidaiidiaii  lii.jn  del 
excoloiitc  re  Amaili.s  df  (Janla." 


^ 


8  COAST   IMLOl OI'  CAMFOKNIA. 

known  iis  Lower  riililoiniii.  iiinl  tlu'  diilc  l.").!.!.  Tlicy  .'iro  the  only  times  in  wliieli 
Diii/.  nse.s  tlie  nsinie.     ((';i|).  ('( '.) 

In  I.VS'J  l-'iiineiseo  tie  riloa  ileterniiiieil  Lower  Cnlilornia  to  bo  n  poninsiilii. 
Tliis  liiet  n|i|teiirs  to  liave  been  siiliseqnently  l'or;;otten,  tor  it  was  ealletl  Has 
Cai'olinas,  in  honor  of  Cliailes  II  of  Spain. 

Tlie  name  California  was  ;;railiially  nsetl  to  designate  the  region  from  the  Gulf 
of  California  to  tin- ni.vtiiieal  "Straits  of  Aiiian." 

The  et)nntr.v  was  ealled  New  Albion  by  Sir  Kraneis  Drake  in  ir»70. 

In  recent  times  the  region  n<»rth  of  San  Diego  was  ealled  Altu  California. 


From  the  southern  boundaiy,  in  latitude  .51.'^  ,'H,",  longitude  117°  0(i',  to  Point 
Argueilo,  in  latitude  M'^  M',  longitude  ll,'(l°  -W,  the  coast  runs  west-northwest 
two  hundred  and  twenty-live  miles;  from  Point  Argiiello  to  Cape  .Mendocino,  in 
latitude  -lOO  L'.V,  longitude  l-V^  --',  northwest  the  hundred  and  twenty  five  mih's; 
Innn  Cape  Mendocino  t(»  Cai)e  Flattery,  in  latitude  48°  23',  longitude  ll'-io -li', 
niu'th-northwest  four  hundred  and  eighty  miles. 

The  iiiiiiiiiiiinit  inai'king  the  western  initial  jioint  of  the  is'Mindary  between 
Mexico  and  the  I'uited  States  is  on  the  table  blulf  rising  from  the  low  land  south 
of  San  Diego  T.ay.  It  is  an  obelisk  of  white  marble,  aliout  twenty  feet  in  height, 
resting  upon  a  pe(h  stal.  It  stands  near  the  edge  of  the  blulV,  about  two  hundred 
yards  from  the  .sea-sluuv,  aiul  i.s  plainly  visible  from  the  water.  Its  ge(»graphical 
|»osition,  as  del'-rmined  by  the  Citast  Survey,  is: 

Latitude :V2  M  ."iS.  Ul  north. 

Longitude 117  ()(>  1  l.lL'  west. 

h.    in.       K. 
Or,  in  tinu' 7  48  l,'-L74. 

From  the  boundary  the  coast  is  low  and  Hat,  running  n(»rth  by  west  for  about 
seven  miles,  thence  curving  gradually  westward  until  it  i.s  nearly  east  and  west 
at  the  entrance  of  San  Diego  IJay.  The  interior  of  the  country  is  marked  by  high 
numntains. 

roiM"  LOMA. 

This  is  th(!  southern  part  of  the  western  boundarj-  of  San  Diego  Bay,  ami  the 
termination  of  a  remarkable  narrow  sjuu'  of  coarse,  (irumbling  sandstone,  which 
rises  .south  of  Puerto  FaLso,  or  False  I?ay,  and  west  of  the  town  of  San  Diego,  to 
the  height  (»f  three  hundred  feet,  and  after  stretching  south  for  abcmt  five  and  a 
half  niih'S,  gradually  increasing  in  height  to  four  hundred  and  tifty-seven  feet, 
terminates  very  abruptly.  It  is  covered  with  coar.se  grass,  cacti,  wild  .sage,  aiul 
low  bushes. 

I'Ol.NT   LOMA  LIUIIT-IIOITSK. 

This  lu'imary  .sea-coast  light  is  less  than  half  a  mile  from  the  southern  eml  of 
the  point,  and  situated  ujton  its  highest  i»art,  four  hundred  and  twenty-two  feet 


■;» 


I 


>««<nMMWti(%<)> 


.11  \  I    \  ^  „|...,.    I,,., I,. 

Vi..w   -^iLmiii;  l,,ili,.l   I',. ml   ..1   |i I.ir    ...•i.v,..,  \\„-  1  1   Si ,   .hi, I    M.si,.,, 


\m'S%      I'I       I. ..III. I     |.|.,ini|M      S      l:     |,v     .S         I  '.l|i|,,;|.s 


1.1. II,,. 
i'>.l..iuin 


COAST  PILOT  OV  CALirOUNIA. 


9 


alxAO  liifih  Avator.  TIic  buildiiij;  consists  of  a  stone  (l\\«'Ilins  of  one  and  a  half 
stories,  witli  a  1  w  tower  of  i»lastere<l  l»riek  risiiif;'  from  the  center  sntliciently  hij;ii 
to  phice  tlie  fo(!al  phme  of  tlie  ii;;ht  four  liiindred  and  ninety-two  feet  above  tiie 
sea.     Tlie  li;;iit  is  n  Ji.rol  irliite  I'ujht  of  tlie  tliird  onh-r  of  Fiesnel,  exliihited  (since 


nih 


!.->,  l.> 


i)  fi 


ilk 


ates  til 


•nti 


ii 


and 


sunset  to  sunri 
clear  weatlier  sliould  l»e  visible — 

rroni  a  lieij;iit  of  10  feet  above  thc^  sea,  at  a  distance  of  L'!>  miles. 
From  a  heijjht  of  1M(  feet  above  the,  sea,  at  a  distance  of  '<W\  miles. 
From  a  lieinhi  of  .')(»  feet  above  the  sea,  at  a  distance  of  .'51.7  miles. 
The  }j:eoij;rai)hical  position  of  the  li;;ht,  as  yiven  by  the  Coast  Survey,  is: 

Latitude .'5-'  W  l.J.O  ncuth. 

Longitude 117   12  I'L'.O  west. 

h.    m.        n. 

Or,  in  time 7   IS  4!>..~». 

Ma^fuetic  variation,  1-"^  20  east,  in  April  l.S,")!,  with  a  yearly  increase  of  T. 

From  the  li;>ht-house  station  the  islands  of  Santa  Catalina,  seventy  miles  dis- 
tant, and  San  Clemente,  lifty-eight  miles  distant,  are  distinctly  visible  in  clear 
weather. 

Tlie  Enjilish  Admiralty  Chart  No.  'J Mil,  with  correcti(His  to  ^March,  1S(J."),  has 
the  I'oint  Loma  li;j;ht  erroneously  i)laced  on  False  Point,  about  seven  miles  north- 
ward of  its  true  position  at  the  entrance  to  False  Pay. 

SAX  DIEGO   HAY. 

Next  to  that  of  San  Francisco,  no  harbor  on  the  Pacific  coast  of  the  United 
States  aitproximates  in  excellence  the  bay  of  San  Diego,  it  is  readily  distin- 
}j;uished,  easily  ai»i>roaclied,  and  a  depth  of  twenty-two  feet  can  be  carried  over 
the  bar,  which  is  three  (piarters  of  a  mile  east  of  the  southern  extremity  of  Point 
Loma,  and  between  it  and  the  tail  of  the  Zuniga  shoal.  Tlie  bar  is  about  six  hun- 
dred and  tifty  yards  across  from  the  outer  to  the  inner  tive-fathom  lines. 

Vessels  cominji'  from  the  northwest  make  the  ridge  of  Point  Loma  as  a  long, 
flat-topjied  islaiul,  when  about  twenty-live  miles  distant.  This  appearance  is  occa- 
sioned by  till'  bay  to  the  southwest,  l)y  the  low  land  to  the  northeast,  and  by  the 
Puerto  Falso  at  the  north. 

A  thick  lield  of  kelp  lies  along  the  western  shore  of  Point  Loma,  the  inner 
edge  being  about  one  mile  olV  shore,  and  having  a  iueadth  of  half  a  mile.  The 
outer  edge  marks  the  line  where  the  depth  of  water  suddenly  changes  from  tw«'iity 
to  tell  fathoms.  The  tield  commences  otV  the  bar  at  tiie  entrance  to  False  Pay, 
and  stretches  so.ithward  two  and  three-quarters  miles  south  of  Point  Loma. 
^larim-rs  a]iproachiiig  tht^  south  end  of  Loma,  along  the  outer  t  <lge  of  the  k«'I|», 
should  pass  through  a  partial  break  in  it,  and  when  the  point  beais  northeast  by 
vn-^,  distant  one  and  a  half  miles,  keep  along  the  northern  edge  of  the  kelp  in  fcuir 
and  u  half  fathoms,  and  about  half  a  mile  from  the  point. 
2» 


10 


COAST  I'lLOT  OF  CALIFOJJNIA. 


As  soon  iis  the  iHtiiit  is  jiiisscil,  a  \ni\}i,  low  beach  of  shingle  is  opened, 
niakinj;  out  from  the  east  side  of  the  point  ami  forming  a  natural  breakwater, 
formerly  called  Tunta  dc  Guiranas*  by  the  Spaniards,  but  now  designated  as  lijil- 
hist  Point. 

Kound  up  gradually  until  T5allast  Toint  is  brought  in  range  with  the  eastern- 
most house  of  3ia  Tlaya,  (distant  one  mile  from  Hallast  I'oiut  and  on  the  same  side 
of  the  bay,)  and  be  careful  not  to  o|»en  more  of  the  village,  as  the  shoal  (tailed 
Harros  de  Zunigat  stretches  scmth  from  the  <tast  side  »tt  the  entrance,  parallel  to 
tlie  ridge  of  Point  Loma,  and  distant  only  three-cpmrters  of  a  mile  fnmi  it.  Be- 
tween Point  Loma  and  this  slioal  runs  the  channel,  which  is  less  than  half  a  milo 
wide  within  the  three-fathom  lines.  With  the  least  swell  the  breakers  show  tiio 
]>osition  and  extent  of  the  shoal,  and  at  the  lowest  tides  ])art  of  it  is  bare.  It  has 
Ix'cn  said  that  a  rock,  having  but  live  or  six  feet  of  water  upon  it,  lies  in  the  chan- 
nel; its  ]»osition  being  marked  by  a  patch  of  kelp,  which  is,  however,  torn  away  in 
heavy  weather.  The  j)il(tt-boat  Fanny  reporte<l  having  struck  on  it  in  1S"»!,  Imt 
the  examinations  of  the  Coast  Survey  have  developed  no  such  danger,  and  the 
report  has  been  generally  discredited. 

During  the  summer  keep  as  close  to  l*oiiit  Lomi  as  the  draught  of  the  vessel 
will  permit,  and  lie  on  the  wind  up  to  ISallast  Point,  oil'  which  lour  iathoms  can 
be  carried  within  a  ship's  length,  with  ten  fathoms  in  mid-channel,  and  a  very 
strong  current  on  the  ebb  and  tlood  tides;  the  former  setting  over  the  Zuuiga 
shoal.  After  passing  Ballast  Point  steer  for  La  Playa,  and  anchor  anywhere  in 
from  tour  to  ten  fathoms,  with  good  holding  ground.  Inside  the  point,  and  about 
two  hundred  ami  lifty  yards  north  by  w  .t  from  it,  is  a  shoal  having  only  twelve  feet 
water  upon  it,  in  a  line  from  iJallast  Point  to  the  westernmost  house  at  La  Playa. 
It  is  a  (piarter  of  a  mile  h»ng.  The  shoals  on  the  starboard  hand,  after  entering, 
are  plainly  in  sight,  excejit  at  very  high  water.  The  channel,  however,  is  buoyed, 
and  cannot  be  missed.  From  La  Playa  to  New  San  Diego,  four  miles  distant,  the 
channel  curves  to  the  right  and  contracts,  but  about  six  fathimis  water  nmy  be 
carried  that  far.  A  mile  or  two  beyond  the  town  the  bay  becomes  shoal  and  tilled 
with  tlats,  yet  a  very  nsirrow  three-lathom  channel  runs  (ilose  along  the  eastern 
shore,  nearly  to  the  head  of  the  bay. 

Coming  irom  the  south,  run  for  the  j'xtreme  end  of  Point  Loma  until  Ballast 
J'oint  and  La  Playa  are  in  lange,  as  betVu'e,  and  tbllow  the  foregoing  directions. 

When  inside  the  harbor  vessels  are  perfectly  safe,  but  during  very  heavy 
southerly  weather  the  kelp  is  said  to  drive  in  such  nnisses  as  to  make  vessels  drag 
their  anchors.  "We  have  never  kn(twn  such  a  case,  and  doubt  if  a  vessel  with  good 
grtmnd  tackle  and  propev  attention  wouhl  snlVer  from  this  cause.  Certaiidy  there 
is  not  reach  enough  for  the  wind  to  raise  a  swell,  and  the  holding-ground  is  excel- 
lent.    In  heavv  southeast  weather  the  sea  breaks  over  Ballast  Point. 


*  Or  l^uitiv  do  los  (iiiiJiUTos. 

tNninoil  by  Visi'iiiiio  in   Ui'it).     Don  O.isiiur  do  Zmiiga,  Count   de  Slonteroy,  (lisi)tituliud  the 
oxpodition. 


COAST  riLOT  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


11 


TIDES  AT   SAN   DIEOO. 

Cronoral  remarks  upon  the  nature  of  the  tides  will  be  given  when  (liseussiuf; 
the  tiih's  at  San  Fiaiiciseo. 

The  eorrected  establishment  or  n'.i'in  interval  between  the  time  of  the  moon's 
transit  and  the  time  of  hi<;li  water  at  La  Playa  is  *Mi.  'ASm.  The  mean  lise  and 
fall  of  tich's  is  .'5.7  feet,  of  spriiif,'  tides  "i.O  feet,  and  of  neap  tides  2.3  feet;  the 
mean  duration  of  the  flood  is  (»A.  2.")/h.;  of  the  ebb,  (»/<.  ()»«.;  and  of  the  stand  (»/(. 
[U)m.  The  avc^rajit!  ditterence  between  the  corrected  estiiblishinciit  of  the  a.  m. 
and  p.  III.  tides  of  the  same  day  is  l/(.  2()m.  for  hif>h  water,  and  lA.  iitn.  for  low 
water.  The  ditf.'rences,  when  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest,  are  'Jli.  4m.  and 
l/(.  '.Win.  re.spectively.  The  averaj;'e  diH'erence  in  the  height  of  these  two  tides  is  1.5 
feet  for  the  high  waters  and  2.1  feet  for  the  low  waters.  When  the  moon's  decli- 
nation is  greatest,  those  dilferenc<'s  are  2.2  feet  and  .'J.O  feet,  respecti\ely.  The 
average  ditVerence  of  the  higher  high  and  lower  low  waters  of  the  same  day  is  ."»..j 
feet,  and  when  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest,  (».;»  feet.  The  higher  high  tide  in 
the  twenty-four  hours  occurs  about  !>//.  1(>»».  after  the  moon's  upjier  transit,  (south- 
ing,) when  the  moon's  declination  is  north,  and  about  .'5/).  H\m.  before  when  south. 
The  lower  of  the  low  water.s  occurs  about  seven  and  a  (piarter  hours  after  the  higher 
high  tide. 

The  greatest  ob.served  difference  between  two  low  waters  of  one  day  Ava.s  4.2 
feet,  and  the  greatest  difference  between  the  higher  high  and  lower  low  waters  of 
one  day,  8.8  feet. 

The  two  tides  of  the  same  day  are  generidly  unequal  in  proportion  to  the 
moon's  declination.  The  time  and  height  can  be  obtained  approximately  from  the 
following  table: 


Moon's  upper  iiiciidinu  i)a.ssji;;o. 

MuoiiH  lowiT  luci'iilinii  paHWigf. 

Moon's  ilcoUnation. 

nigh  ^^ 

•ator. 

Low  water. 

High  water. 

Low  water. 

luti'ival. 

Uiifilit. 

liitcival. 

lt('i!;lit. 

Iiilnval. 

Uuislit. 

Interval. 

Heigllt. 

Groatest  north 

//.  .V. 

«  .->;t 

■J  •>! 

in  ai 

iWt. 
r>.  ti 

J.!) 

;i.7 

ir.  M. 

ti>  ifi 

1,-)  4(1 

Feet. 

—0.3 

0.7 

2.1 

If.  jr. 

10  -j;) 

Feet. 
H.7 
4.1) 

n.  31. 

14  M 
l.'i  40 
Hi  l(i 

Feet. 
•J.  1 

0.7 

—0.3 

The  interval  is  to  be  adth'd  to  the  time  of  the  moon's  meridian  pas.sagetogive 
the  time  of  high  or  low  water.  The  time  of  the  moon's  upper  meridian  pas.sago 
is  given  in  the  almanac,  and  the  time  of  its  h)wer  meridian  passage  is  the  middle 
between  two  successive  upper  passages.  The  heights  are  given  in  feet  and  tenths, 
and  show  the  rise  above  the  level  of  the  average  of  the  lowest  low  waters ;  to  which 
level  the  soundings  on  the  chart  are  given. 

Spring  Tides, — At  the  full  and  change  of  the  moon  the  high  waters  wil'  be 
0.7  foot  higher  than  the  above,  and  the  low  waters  0.7  foot  lower. 


12  COAST  riLOT  or  California. 

iS>«/)  Tides. — At  tlio  inor,.i's  first  iuid  last  quarters  tlio  liij-li  waters  will  bt'  0.7 
foot  lower,  and  the  low  waters  will  not  fall  as  low  by  0,7  foot. 

The  existence  of  a  bar  at  the  entrance  of  this  port  was  discovered  by  Van- 
couver in  170.'5,  and  in  cnticisin}>  a  plan  of  the  harbor,  piildished  by  Dalryniple  in 
ITSL',  he  remarks:  "This  plan,  in  point  of  correctness,  is  justly  entitled  to  nmch 
])raise,  but  was  yet  ca])able,  as  far  as  came  under  my  observation,  of  the  followiu}^ 
little  imi)rovements :  the  scale  rei)resenting  tive  nautical  miles  should  only  sub- 
tend three  miles  and  a  half;  the  shoals  of  Barros  de  Zooni^^a,  though  well  ])laeed, 
instead  of  being  two  distinct  shoals  ought  to  have  beeu  one  entire  shoal,  stretch- 
ing something  further  to  the  northwest  and  southeast  than  is  therein  represented  ; 
and  the  soundings  between  IJarros  de  Zooniga  and  the  land  of  Ponta  de  la  Loma, 
(which  is  omitted,)  are  in  no  part,  from  the  south  extremity  of  the  former  dire<tly 
across  to  the  latter,  nu)re  than  four  fathoms  at  high  water,  aiid  form  a  narrow  bar 
from  the  shore  to  the  shoal,  gradually  deei»ening  as  well  on  the  inside  as  on  the 
outside  of  the  bar,  with  a  regular  increase  in  niid-channel,  from  tive,  close  to  the 
shore,  to  ten  fathoms  between  the  two  low  points  that  form  the  entrance  to  the 
port"— (Vol.  U,  page  47;{.) 

As  the  nu'an  rise  and  fall  of  spring  tides  is  five  feet,  and  of  neaj*  tides  about 
two  and  a  half,  A'aiieouver's  and  the  recent  examinations  of  the  Coast  Survey  con- 
tiriu  each  other,  and  tend  to  show  that  the  depth  has  remained  the  same  for  the 
last  sixty-three  years. 

The  ])rimary  astronomical  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  is  on  the  round-toi)ped 
hill,  one  humlred  and  ninety-four  ft  et  high,  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  west-south- 
west of  La  IMaya. 

Its  geographical  position  is: 

O  '  " 

Latitude 32  41  57.0  north. 

Long'tude 117  i;j  Uli      west. 

h.     m.      n. 

Or,  in  time 7  48  o.'J.."*. 

The  eastern  side  of  the  entrance  to  San  Diego  Bay  is  low  and  Hat,  covered 
with  thick  bushes  and  grass.  It  is  called  "The  Island,"  although  a  lu'iiinsula,  be- 
ing very  low  and  narrow  towards  the  head  of  the  bay.  On  Uallast  I'oint,  at  the 
base  of  the  Point  Loma  ridge,  are  visible  the  ruins  of  the  old  Spanish  fortilica- 
ti»)ns,  &e. 

Fntni  Ballast  Point  the  bay  runs  about  north  for  a  mile  and  a  half;  thenco 
curves  gra<lually  to  the  eastward  for  three  miles  to  New  San  Diego  ;  thence  ti»  the 
head  of  the  bay,  southeast,  seven  miles.  The  average  width  of  the  bay  after  i)a.ss- 
ing  La  Playa  is  a  mile  and  a  half,  but  at  New  San  Diego,  after  contracting  to  a 
tritle  over  half  a  mile,  it  again  exjyands  to  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  with  low 
shores  and  extensive  marshes  ;ind  tiats.  ]\Iany  years  since  tiie  San  Diego  Hiver 
changed  its  course  during  a  freshet,  and  emptied  into  San  Diego  Bay  instead  of 
IMierto  Valso  to  the  northwest.  The  result  was  a  rapid  tilling  in  of  the  bay  ojipo- 
site  the  old  town  of  San  Diego.    An  ap])ropriation  was  made  by  Congress  to  turn 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFOJ5XIA. 


13 


the  <'lianii('l  of  tlio  rivor  to  its  ori^jiiial  bod.  This  was  done  a  few  yonrs  ago,  hut 
tlic  woiks  have  not  jnovcd  of  siiniciciit  strcnjitli.  Tlic  livcr  (lows  into  Sau  JJit'j>o 
J5ay,  Avliicli  is  rc] (resented  as  slioalinf;'  at  tliat  point. 

The  jiU'iit  diawbaeiv  in  San  I)ie;;o  I'.a.v  is  tlie  want  of  fresli  water,  whieli  has 
to  l»e  bronj-ht  from  the  river.  An  etfort  was  made  in  l.s.")l  to  obtain  a  snpply  at 
La  riaya  by  sinkin},'  an  artesian  well,  bnt  atter  boiinj;  six  linncbed  and  thirty-tivo 
feet  the  attempt  was  aban(h>ned.  A  simihir  attem|>t,  witii  liiie  residts,  was  made 
at  >»'ew  Town,  botli  eontirminfi'  the  i)reviously  exjiressed  opinion  of  >;•('( do j;ists. 
The  same  amount  of  money  would  liave  brouj^Iit  it  in  earl  lien  pipes  from  the 
river.  During"  the  lonj>'  (by  season  tlie  river  loses  itself  in  the  sand,  ami  the  inhab- 
itants arc  eomiM'lled  to  dijn'  in  its  bed  to  obtain  their  supplies.  Fresh  provisions 
are  icadily  ))roeured  W're. 

When  fishery  assunu's  a  praetieal  shaju'  on  this  coast  the  harbor  of  San  Dio^ro 
■will  b«'eome  a  i)ositi(tn  of  im])()rtan('e.  Already  several  small  companies  are  en- 
ga^icd  in  the  whalin<>'  business.  The  waters  in  this  vicinity  abound  with  the  "Cal- 
iforina  (ireys,"  which  are  very  troublesome  to  deal  with,  unless  the  bomb-lance  is 
used  in  killiu"'  them. 

Communication  with  San  Francisco  and  the  northern  or  windward  jMuts  is 
inaintaim>d  every  week  by  steamer,  and  by  rcfjular  lines  of  sailin;--  vessels. 

San  J)iej>o  l>ay  was  discovered  by  Juan  Kodrij^ucz  Cabrillo,  a  I'ortn;;nese  in 
the  service  of  Spain,  in  Septcmlter  1.142;  called  Port  San  Mi<;uel,  ami  jdac-ed  by 
him  in  latitude  ;>P  lid'  north,  showin}^'  the  iiii|»erfection  of  tiie  instruments  and 
the  modes  of  observing"'  in  those  days,  lie  fouud  jjireat  numliers  of  Indians  here, 
who  received  him  hospitably,  but  with  caution.  It  received  its  present  name  fiom 
Sebastian  Vizcaino,  who  surveyed  it  in  Novembei'  KiOL'.  In  bis  tinu'  there  existed 
a  forest  of  tall,  straij^ht  oak  and  other  trees  borderinj;'  the  nortliwest  side  of  the 
bay.  This  for<'st  was  said  to  be  three  Iea{;ues  in  lcn;ith  and  half  a  Iea;:iie  in 
breadth,  and  that  to  the  northwest  of  it  was  a  j;'ood  harbor,  iu)w  known  as  Puerto 
Falso. 

La  Perouse  (in  1787)  ftives  a  coi)y  of  an  Enjulish  niaj)  of  San  l)ie<;(»,  of  17S2, 
(T)alryni])le's,)  on  which  no  nanu'  is  assijiiied  to  tlie  Ziinijia  Shoal,  but  the  shoal 
inside  Pallast  Poin<^  and  under  the  eastern  shore  is  called  "  Shoal  of  Zunij;a." 
Mallast  Point  is  called  "  Point  (Juisarros,"  and  Point  Loma,  "  Hill  Point." 

At  the  north  end  of  the  ridf;'e  of  Point  Loma  is  an  extensive  shoal  bay  called 
Puerto  Falso,  or  False  P>ay.  Tin;  bar  at  its  entrance  lies  north  by  west  half 
Avest,  distant  five  and  a  half  miles  from  the  .southern  extrennty  of  Point  Loma  ; 
and  liavin}>' but  three  feet  of  water,  it  can  be  crossed  oidy  in  the  smoothest 
Aveather.  The  entrance  Just  inside  the  line  of  heavy  bieakers  is  about  a  (pnirter 
of  a  mile  in  width,  but  rapidly  contracts  to  less  than  an  ei<;hth.  The  northern 
]»oint  of  this  bay  is  alumt  two  miles  in  len};th,  very  narrow,  and  covered  with  low 
sand  dinu's. 

To  the  north  and  west  of  this  the  shore  is  compact  and  unbroken,  except  by 


1 

If 


14 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CAUKOnXlA. 


the  valloys  of  San  Luis  Key  and  San  Juan  Capiatrano.  TluMvators  ott'  this  Htrotch 
of  tlu!  coast  Avt're  t'allo<l  by  Vizcaino  tlic  IJay  of  Santa  Catalina. 

The  hitcst  cliart  of  San  Diego  15ay  is  tliat  acconijianying  the  ]{cport  of  the 
Sui)erinten<U'nt  of  the  Coast  Survey  for  IS.")?. 

From  the  southern  extremity  of  Point  Loma  the  coast  runs  nortli  by  west  for 
twenty-two  miU's;  tlienc*^  to  Point  Lausen,  (of  Vancouver,  171».'i,)  forniin;;'  the  oast 
point  of  San  i'edro  Uay,  nortliwest  by  west  half  west  nearly  sixty  miles. 

SAM  HIS   KEY. 

The  inissi<m  of  San  Luis  Jtej'  was  the  larj^est  in  California ;  it  was  founded 
June  l.'{  171KS;  stands  in  a  rich  valley  from  oiu;  to  two  miles  wide;  is  about  three 
miles  from  the  ocean,  beinin"  separated  therefrom  by  a  ranye  of  hills;  an<l  the 
number  of  (h)nH'sticated  Indians  formerly  in  its  neighborhood  gave  it  the  appear- 
ance t)f  a  large  and  thriving  settlement. 

It  is  nearly  in  the  centre  •)f  a  section  of  ccmntry  nnecpialed  for  salubrity  and 
in'oductiveness,  but  the  scarcity  of  rain  is  an  insuperable  drawback. 

The  mission  is  now  a  military  post,  but  very  few  men  an^  stationed  there. 

The  anchorage  is  veiy  much  restricted  and  unprotected,  and  now  rarely 
visited.     Its  position  on  the  coast  will  be  seen  by  reference  to  the  chart  of  the 

Coast  Survey. 

Its  approxinuite  geographical  i)osition  is: 

Latitude .'{.'>  17  north. 

Longitude 117  1'!)  west. 


SAN  JUAxV   CAinSTRANO 

is  now  a  place  of  no  impoitance,  with  an  nn])rotected  anchorage,  roclcy  bottom, 
and  bad  landing.  The  bay  has  a  high  clitt-like  head  to  the  iu)rthwest  but  termi- 
nates in  low  sandy  beaches  to  the  southward. 

It  is  situated  in  a  tine  valley,  and  its  site  is  marked  on  the  chart  of  the  Coast 
Survey. 

The  approximate  geogra])hical  position  of  the  anchorage  as  determined  by  the 
United  States  Coast  Survey  is : 

O  ' 

Latitude 33  27  north. 

Longitude 117  43  west. 

In  latitude  33°  30i'  north,  about  four  miles  northwestward  along  the  coast 
from  the  w(>stern  point  of  Capistrano  anclun-age,  the  line  of  equal  mnffuetk  decli- 
nation of  13"2  east  cuts  the  shore,  and  i)asses  ctver  the  great  transverse  break  of 
the  island  of  Santa  ('atalina.  This  line  annually  moves  southward  a  mile  and  a 
half. 


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COAST  IMIA)T  OF  C'AMI'OUNIA.  15 

SAN    I'KDKO   HAY. 

Tills  1)ii,v  is  wj'li  ]trot('('(«'(l  In  every  diieetlnii,  exc^ept  ii^iiiiist  the  winter  ;;iiIeH 
from  tlie  suntlu'iist  ronntl  to  tlie  sunthwest.  Dniinj;-  the  spiinj;,  sinnnier,  and 
iiiitinnn  it  is  an  exeeMent  roadstead.  Kroni  Point  I-'einiin,*  whieli  is  t lie  southeast 
jtoint  of  hlj,'h  land  west  of  the,  hay,  the  line  of  blutf  niiis  exaetly  north  and  .sontli 
for  about  tw(»  miles,  hein;j  hold,  and  averajjinj;  sixty  feet  in  hei^iht. 

Vessels  eominjn'  from  the  westward  throuj>h  the  Santa  Harbara  Channel  nuike 
San  Pedro  Hill,  (l.tUMt  feet  hij;h,)  forminj;-  the  west  side  of  the  bay,  as  an  island 
l»rojeeted  a^ininst  the  mountains  to  the  southward  and  eastward.  Approachin;; 
Point  \  in<'ent«',  which  is  the  southwest  point  of  the  liill,  vessi-ls  ean  keep  it  ^^\os^^ 
aboard,  ther«'  beinj;'  from  lifty  to  «'iyhty  fathoms  within  a  mile  (»f  the  shore; 
round  Point  l<Vrmin  within  half  a  mile,  in  from  six  to  ten  fathoms,  and  open  the 
small  island  ealled  El  3b)ro:t  run  for  that  island;  and  when  abreast  of  the  lantl- 
in;;',  (readily  reeo;;iii/ed  by  the  lutuses  on  the  blutf,)  about  one  inih'  north  of  Pdint 
Fermin.  anchor  in  three  fathoms,  hard  bottom,  and  half  a  mile  off  shore.  \'es- 
sels  must  anchor  a  mile  otf  to  ^et  liv«'  fathoms. 

Comiu};:  from  the  south  with  noithwest  winds,  beat  in  boldly  until  abreast  of 
the  landing';  kee])  the  lead  jroin^' and  anchor  anywheie  in  its  vicinity.  Do  not 
approach  the  low  slutre,  to  the  north  and  east  of  El  More,  closer  than  (»ne  mile,  at 
Avhicli  limit  four  fathoms  water  will  be  found. 

In  winter,  anchor  further  out,  and  more  to  the  southward,  in  onh'r  to  i»e  able 
t()  slip  and  no  to  s«'a  slnmld  a  heavy  southeaster  sprin;;'  up.  In  I>S."»L'  we  saw  the 
clipper  briji  Fremont  ride  out  a  very  heavy  southeast  j;ale  (»f  three  days' duration. 
The  waters  of  tiie  lajicton,  inside  of  the  low  sandy  beach,  and  a  mile  or  more 
northward  of  El  iNIoro,  lind  their  ])rincipal  outlet  between  that  island  and  the  blutf 
])oint  half  a  mile  west  of  it.  the  entrance  is  very  narrow  and  crooked,  and  has 
two  buoys,  about  two  hinidred  yards  apart,  to  rk  it.  In  l.S."i!>  it  is  stated  |  that 
the  "  bar  at  the  entrance  to  the  creek  remains  about  the  same,  (as  it  did  in  l.S."i2.) 
At  mean  h»w  water,  throwiufj-  out  the  halt  tides,  only  two  feet  of  water  can  be 
carried  over  it."  The  town  of  AVilmin<;ton  is  situated  three  miles  inside  the  bar, 
and  has  a  good  wharf  and  larji'e  storehouses  to  receive  freijiht.  There  are  two 
steam  tujis  and  live  lighters  for  receivinji'  and  deliverinj''  freij;lit  to  vessels  in  Sail 
Tedro  ]>ay. 

The  ji'cographical  position  of  the  Coast  Survey  astronomical  station  on  the 
blutt'  at  San  Pedro  laiidiiiji'  is  : 

Latitude 'S.i  4.S  !!).(!  north. 

Longitude 118  1(5  0;j.(»  west. 

/(.      III.  K. 

Or,  in  time 7  53  04.2. 

*Nimu'(l  by  Vaiictmvt'r  in  IT'J'^i,  at'ti-i-  t'oriiiiu  dc  lii  Siicn,  the  I'atlicr,  infsidciit  of  flir  MissioiH 
of  Alta  ('aliforiiia.  "  A  low  ixiiut  foiiiiiiii;  tlic  cast  point  nf  a  small  liay  or  eov(!  in  the  sontlifast 
jiart  of  .San  I'imIi-o  I!ay"  he  named  Point  l.asiicn  after  tlie  same  jierson. 

t  For  I'l  Morni.  On  the  Coast  Survey  reeonnaissanee  eliurt  of  lS'>ii  it  is  railed  Dead  Man's 
Wuiul.  tKejiort  of  the  Sniterinteudeiit  of  the  Coast  Survey  for   If^oH,  i)a}{e  100. 


H 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CAMKOKNIA. 


Mii^jiH'tic  variiitiuii,  l.'P  ;!(l'  ciisf,  in  NovciiiImt  is.l.'i,  witli  ii  yciirl.v  iiicrciisc  <»('  I'. 

All  ii|»i»ro|iiiiilioii  liiis  hft'ii  iiiii<li>  lor  :i  llijlil  lioitsr  mi  I'niiit  Fniiiiii,  iiiiil  tlm 
iicrj'ssar.v  tttpujiriipliicnl  siiiNry  roiiiplctcil.  Tlic  site  n>niiiiiii(>ii(lf<l  to  the  I,i;,'lif- 
liuMsc  Huiird  li.v  the  Sii|M'riiit('ii(li'iit  of  tlic  Coast  Survey,  is  soiitli  l»v  west  (|iiar- 
tcr  wrst,  anil  lit'lffii  sixtt'ciitlisot'  a  iiiiic  distant  trmii  tin*  astioiiomical  station. 

Tiilrn. — Tin-  corn-ctcd  cstalilisliincnt  or  niran  interval  lielween  the  time  of  tin- 
moon's  tiansil  and  the  time  of  hi;;!!  water  is  !•/(.  :\'.\iii.  The  nn-aii  rise  and  fail  of 
tides  is  .'5.7  feet,  of  sprinfj  tides  4.7  feet,  and  of  neap  tides  li.L'  feet.  The  mean  dii- 
ration  of  the  tlood  is  (i/(.  ISm.,  of  the  ehh  (i//.  .~>m.,  an<I  of  the  stand  ('//.  :Miti.  Tli(>. 
avera;;e  dilVerenee  between  the  eorreeted  estaitlishments  of  the  a.m.  and  p.m. 
tides  of  the  samjf  <la,v  is  \li.  I(»m.  foi'  lii;:h  water,  and  1//.  \m.  for  low  water.  The 
dilVerenees,  when  the  moon's  deelination  is  ;ireatest,  are  \li.  ."iw.  and  I//.  '.'tSm. 
respectively.  The  avera;^*'  dilVeiciiee  in  height  of  tiiese  two  tides  is  1.5  feet  I'orlhe 
liijfh  wat«'rs  and  li.O  for  the  h»w  waters.  When  the  moon's  deelination  is  ;;reatest, 
those  dilVerenees  ai'c  !.'..">  feet  and  ;>.I  feet,  r«'Speetivel\.  The  averafie  dilVerenee  of 
the  lii;;liei'  hii^li  and  lower  low  waters  of  the  same  day  is  ."».(»  feet,  and  when  the 
moon's  deelination  is  jireatest  (1.(5  t'eet.  The  Iiiyhor  Iii^-h  tiih-  in  the  twenty-four 
hours  occurs  about  !•//.  Ktw*.  after  the  moon's  u|»per  transit  (southinj.;)  when  tlu^ 
moon's  deelination  is  north,  and  about  ■>/(.  Him.  belbrt^  when  south.  The  lower  of 
the  low  wat«'rs  occurs  about  si'ven  hours  alter  the  hi;;Iier  liijih  tide. 

The  j^reatest  observed  dilVerenee  between  the  two  low  waters  of  out'  day  was 
;$.!)  feet,  and  the  {greatest  diflerenc^e  between  the  hij;her  hij^h  and  lower  low  waters 
of  one  day  S.-l  feet. 

To  lind  the  times  and  hei;;Iits  of  hij;li  ami  low  waters,  compute  them  for 
San  Diejio,  the  times  and  heights  beiuj*'  sensibly  the  same  for  both  places. 

The  town  of  Los  Anj{eles  is  twenty-two  miles  north  by  the  road,  from  San 
Pedro,  and  is  the  centre  of  an  extensive  grazin^i',  a}>ricultural,  an<l  yrape-yruwinj; 
country. 

Salt  works  have  been  established  within  a  few  miles  of  Los  Angeles,  but  tho 
pond  from  which  the  salt  water  is  obtained  covers  only  an  area  of  six  hundred 
yards  in  lenjitii  by  two  hundred  in  width. 

The  15ay  of  San  P«'dro  was  discovered  by  Cabrillo  in  1'>12,  and  was  called  tho 
liay  of  Smoke,  (Fumos.) 

When  Vancouver  was  seeking-  for  San  Pedro  l>ay  he  f<»und  su(!h  deep  water 
off  Point  Vincentc  that  he  thought  this  could  lutt  be  near  the  idace;  but  after 
{i'ettin};'  to  the  south  and  east  he  had  a  fall  view  of  the  anchorage.  He  did  not, 
however,  enter  it. 

In  ISdl  a  prelinnnary  examination  was  made  of  the  lagoon,  situated  east 
quarter  south,  about  tifteen  or  sixteen  miles  from  San  Pedro,  and  which  receives 
the  waters  of  the  Santa  Anna  lliver.  It  was  found  to  be  some  five  miles  h)ng, 
and  separated  from  the  ocean  by  a  narrow  strip  of  low  sand  beach,  over  which 
washes  the  heavy  swell  from  the  northwest  and  southeast  stornjs.  The  lagoon  has 
a  breadth  of  only  a  few  hundred  yards,  and  a  mouth  about  fifty  yards  in  width, 


V 


COAST  PILOT  OK  CALIl'OI!XIA. 


17 


V 


f 


witli  a  niinwv  biM",  njM)!!  wliirli  it  is  siipponrd  t<'ii  <»r  twclv*'  tU'\  of  wiitcr  inifrlit 
he  CoimhI  lit  lii^'li  tide.  On  this  Itar  tlinc  is  a  vers  lioavv  Im-ak  at  all  stairs  oC 
tlu' tide,  rt'iidniii;;  it  (laii;;fi(Mis  to  noss  ill  boats  of  aii.v  kiiiil.  There  is  said  to 
be  no  safe  aiichonij,'!' off  tlu'  eiit ranee,  and  the  low  stnii;;lit  Iteaeh,  with  a  treiitl 
nearly  east  and  west,  atVords  no  protiction  whatever.  The  San  I'edro  wiiiil  ;-a|» 
lit'H  iM'tweeii  San  I\'<bo  Hill  and  the  Siena  San  .liiaii,  to  the  southeast  of  the  Santa 
Anna,  and  the  siiiniiier  winds  (baw  direetly  on  the  land,  eaiisin;,'  the  northwest 
Nweil  to  roll  upon  the  beach  witii  ^-reat  force.  In  winter  the  southeast  ami  south- 
west swell  liicaks  siiimre  upon  this  whole  line  of  coast,  and  would  prevent  any 
vessel  passiiifi'  into  or  out  of  the  la;ii>on,  orridin;-  at  anchor  near  it.  The  attempts 
to  pass  tlie  bar  were,  in  all  cases,  attemh-d  wiih  risk,  and  the  entrance  niay,  for 
general  jmrposes  be  regarded  as  iminacticable. 

In  summer  the  Santa  .Viina  is  said  to  frequently  dry  iiji  beft»re  reaching'  the 
hignon. 

Anaheim  Laiidiii;;  is  situated  at  the  oi»enin;i'  into  the  northwest  part  of  a  Ion;;- 
1a;;oon,  and  is  used  l>y  steamers  to  hind  :iid  receive  freight  for  Anaheiiii,  which  lies 
tw«'Ive  miles  northeast  therefrom.  This  landing  is  bet  ween  ten  and  eleven  miles 
east  three-tinarters  north  from  El  Moro  or  l<eadinan's  Island  ;  and  the  bar  to  the 
lagoon  is  said  (iS(iS)  to  have  t\\     tw  tlirce  feet  of  water  ujion  it  at  low  water, 

FfDiii  I'iiint  Vutcchti*  the  coas!  trends  inutli  by  west  three-tpiarters  west  for 
sovcnteeii  miles  ;  thence  west  bysouth  to  I'oint  Diime,  in  latitude  'J4^  0(1'  north, and 
longitude  llHo  41' west;  thence  to  Po'nt  Mngn,  west  half  muth  for  seventeen 
miles.  The  last  point  lies  northeast  by  east  «niethird  «fast,  distant  fourteen  miles 
from  the  eastern  end  of  Anaeapa.  This  long  curve  in  the  coast  is  known  as  the. 
liahia  Ona. 

IWint  Dumc]  rises  into  n  <lonie-like  form  two  hundred  and  two  feet  high.  The 
land  immediately  behind  it  falls  away,  so  that  in  making  it  from  the  west  it  rises 
into  view  as  an  island  close  under  the  high  mountains.  Eastward  of  J>umt  the 
mountains  si»ring  directly  fnun  the  water. 

From  Poiitt  Miaju  to  <SV<m  BuoKH'cntiira,  distant  seventeen  miles,  the  coast  has 
a  general  trend  northwest  l)y  west ;  but,  about  midway,  it  (uirves  soiithwestward 
of  this  (;ourse  two  and  a  half  miles  toward  Anacajta,  thus  contracting  the  eastern 
entrance  to  the  Santa  Barbara  Channel.  Two  miles  west  of  I'oint  Mugii  is  Lagiina 
I'oint,  close  under  Aviiich  is  very  deep  wafer,  the  ten-fathom  line  running  within 
two  hundred  and  fifty  yards  of  the  shore.  Between  Mugu  and  I>uenaventiira  the 
coast  is  low,  flat,  and  sandy,  being  the  opening  of  the  valley  of  Santa  Clara.,  through 
Avhich  Hows  the  Santa  Clara  Kiver.  This  stream  is  nearly  dry  during  the  summer, 
and  terminates  in  lagoons  and  marshes,  but  in  the  rainy  season  a  volume  of  water 


*  Nam  '  l)y  ViiiKMHivcr  iu  November  1793,  after  Vinct'iitc  Sta.  Miuiii,  one  of  the  IViiir.sof  tlio 
Mission  ot"    .iii'iiiivfiituru. 

tNiiiin'il  l>y  \'iiiieouver,  in  November,  1703,  after  the  Father  Fraucisco  Dume,  one  of  the  friars 
of  the  Mission  of  IJiienaveutuni. 

3* 


18 


COAST  riLOT  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


Is  bronplit  <lo\>Ti  having  sufflcieiit  forco  to  Itroak  tliroiigli  the  narrow  sand  beach 
and  flow  into  the  ocean.  Tlie  eonti};'m'ati()n  of  the  sliore,  and  its  relation  to  Ana- 
cai)a  and  Santa  Crnz  Ishinds,  are  sliown  npon  the  ])reliniinary  chart  of  the  eastern 
entrance  to  the  Santa  Barbara  Channel,  jmblished  bj    he  Coast  Snrvey  in  1857. 

The  eautern  entrance  lo  the  i^anta  Barbara  Channel  lies  between  the  eastern  end 
of  Anaeapa  Island  and  Point  lluenenie,  vvhich  is  about  half-way  between  ^Ingii 
and  Bnenaventiua.  From  Auacai)a,  Point  Iluenerae  bears  northeast  by  north  one- 
third  north,  distant  nine  and  a  (piarter  miles.  The  best  landing  is  directly  on  the 
point.  Landing  in  the  bight  to  the  eastward  and  leeward  is  impracticable.  Din^ctly 
off  this  point  im  found  a  remarkable  ex  Muple  of  a  submarine  valley,  commencing 
with  a  depth  of  ten  fathoms,  four  hundred  yards  from  the  beach,  increasing  to  fifty 
fathoms  in  five-eighths  of  a  mile,  and  to  one  hundred  and  thirteen  in  less  than  two 
miles.  Its  general  direction  is  south,  with  a  width  of  a  mile,  and  bounded  on  either 
side  by  depths  of  twelve  and  fifteen  fathoms. 

The  erection  of  a  primary  sea-coast  light  at  this  point  was  recommended  by 
the  Superintendent  of  the  Coast  Survey,  and  has  been  .luthorized  by  Congress. 

The  approximate  geogi-aphical  position  of  the  site  is : 

Latitude U  OS  north. 

liongitude 110  OU  west. 

The  computed  magnetic  variation,  August,  1857,  was  13°  38',  with  a  present 
yearly  increase  of  1'. 

Vancouver  says  this  was  called  Point  Con\ersion  on  old  Spanish  maps;  he 
placed  it  in  latitude  34°  (MC,  and  retained  the  name. 

There  is  excellent  holding  ground  ofi:'  Buenaventura  in  ten  fathoms,  but  the 
landing  is  not  good.  The  three-fathom  line  lies  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  ott" 
shore. 

The  Mission  of  Biicnarcntnra,  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  dividing  ridge  of  the 
valleys  of  San  Buenaventurii  and  Santa  Clara,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  shore, 
was  founded  March  31. 1782.    Its  approximate  geographical  position  is  : 


Latitude 34  15  north. 

Longitude 11!)  15  west. 

Fifteen  miles  westward  of  Buenaventura,  on  the  coast,  there  ifs  ,i  :''«'h  deposit 
of  sulphur,  surface  specimens  of  which  have  yielded  sixtj'  per  cent.  Around  the 
locality  are  found  ashes  and  scoria.  The  ground  is  hot,  and  the  gas  emitted  is 
almost  suffocating.  On  the  head  waters  of  the  Santa  Clara  Itiver  and  the  Arroyo 
Simi,  are  p«'troleum  si)rings. 

SANTA  BARBARA. 

From  San  Buenaventura  to  Santa  Barbax'a  the  distance  is  twenty-three  miles, 
and  the  bearing  near'y  west  by  north. 

Santa  Barbara  is  an  oi)en  roadstead  for  all,  except  northerly  winds,  <vhich  are 


L., 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFOKNIA.  If 

niilVcquojit.  On  the  west  side  of  the  long,  low,  sandy  beach  is  a  bold  bluft",  called 
Point  Felipe.*     The  liill  rising  behind  it  is  called  La  Vigia. 

The  landing  is  on  the  beach  about  half  a  mile  east  of  Point  Felipe ;  tiie 
shore  is  very  low  and  Hat  as  far  as  the  town,  three  quarters  of  a  niiU;  distant,  but 
gradually  rises  to  the  mission,  whicli  is  a  prominent  object  about  two  miles  inland. 

Vessels  coming  from  the  westward  first  sight  La  Vigia,  and,  upon  apitroaching 
the  anchorage,  keep  outside  of  the  line  of  kelp,  (here  nearly  half  a  mile  wi<le,) 
gradually  round  the  point  u))Oii  which  is  situated  the  Uffht-housc,  two  miles  south- 
westeily  of  the  landing,  keep  along  the  kelp  until  abreast  of  the  town  and  anchor 
in  seven  fathoms ;  or  pass  through  the  kelp  and  anclntr  on  the  inside  in  three 
and  a  half  fathoms,  hard  bottom.  In  anchoring  far  enough  off  to  get  nine  or 
ten  fathoms  the  bottom  will  be  found  sticky.  A  hydrographic  sketch  of  the  vicin- 
ity was  i>ublished  by  the  Coast  Survey  in  1S55. 

No  dangers  have  been  discovered  in  the  kelp  oft'  this  beach. 

With  the  h^iist  swell  the  surf  on  the  beach  is  a  bad  one,  no'c;  falling  square  on, 
but  cutting  it  at  a  sharj)  angle. 

In  Avinter,  vessels  must  anchor  outside  of  the  kcOp,  as  the  gales  detach  it  and 
drive  it  shoreward  in  such  vast  (nuintities  that,  coming  across  a  vessel's  hawse, 
it  helps  to  bring  home  her  anchors. 

LIGIIT-IIOISE   AT   SANTA  BARDAKA. 

Tlie  structure  consists  of  a  plastered  dwelling  of  one  and  a  half  stories,  with  a 
low  gray  tower,  also  plastered,  rising  through  the  roof.  The  illuminating  appa- 
ratus is  of  the  fourth  order  of  the  system  of  Fresnel,  and  shows  a  fued  white 
Unlit,  illuminating  the  vseaward  half  of  the  horizon.  It  if;  situated  at  an  elevation 
of  one  hundred  and  eighty  feet  above  the  sea,  two  nules  southwestwardly  from 
the  landing  on  the  beach,  and  one  hundred  an<l  eighty-three  yards  from  the  edge 
of  the  bluft".  The  light,  as  seen  from  the  sea,  will  be  projected  against  the  hill 
rising  behind  it. 

In  clear  weather  it  can  be  seen  from  a  lieight  of  ten  feet  at  a  distance  of  nine- 
teen miles;  from  a  lieight  of  twenty  feet  at  a  distance  of  twenty  and  a  half 
miles. 

It  was  first  exhibited  December  1, 185G,  as  a  red  light,  but  has  since  been 

changed. 

The  geograi)hical  position,  as  given  by  the  Coast  Survey,  is: 

Latitude ^51  -•"'  -^•"'•^l  iK"th. 

Longitude H!^  4-  *>•'»      west. 

h.   III.      M. 

Or,  in  time 7  58  48. 3 

Magnetic  variation,  l.'Jo.lO'  east  in  Novemljer  18."»3;  yearly  iiun-ease  1'. 

"NiuiumI  liy  ViiiifouvM'  in  Novi'iiihi^r  179;j,  tiftw  tho  comiiiuiiilaut  of  Hm  pii-Kidio  of  Stii. 
llavliivni,  St'futr  l>ou  K^lipc  (loycoclicii.  It  is  ciilli'tl  Point  Oastillo  on  tin;  Coast  .Survey  tliiiit  of 
\K)'.\,  fron\  a  muiill  Mexican  battery  formerly  existing  ui>ou  it. 


20  COAST  riLOT  OF  CALIFORNIA. 

Tho  si'coiKliir.y  iistroiioinical  stntioii  of  tlie  Coast  Survpy  was  on  tlio  slijiht 
fjriissy  rise  Just  In  IVoiii  the  Ixnu'h,  and  sixty  yards  from  the  west  side  of  tlie  road 
leadiny  to  the  town.     Its  position  is: 

Latitude ;U  2 4  li4. 7  north. 

j.ongitude 1  lit  40  IS.O  west. 

/(.    m.       s. 

Or,  in  time 7  58  41.2. 

Santa  llarhara  is  a  town  of  considerable  size,  lyiiiff  in  the  middle  of  an  aft'ri- 
eultural  tract  of  limiti'd  breadth  runninf;'  east  and  west,  at  tlie  southern  base  of 
the  Sierra  Concepcion.  The  trade  Avith  San  Francisco  is  not  extensive;  but  this 
beinj;-  one  of  the  greatest  stock-raisinj:!:  districts  on  the  coast,  vast  droves  of  cattle 
pass  thronyh  and  are  sent  to  San  Francisco  and  the  muiing  districts. 

nie  jNIission,  founded  Decend)er  4,  178(5,  is  one  of  the  larj^cst  and  best  estab- 
lishments of  the  kind  in  California,  and  in  the  gardens  attached  to  it  the  grape 
and  olive  have  been  cultivated  with  success. 

A  large  bitumen  pit,  about  eight  miles  west  of  Santa  Ihubara,  empties 
directly  into  the  ocean,  and  the  bitumen,  lloating  on  the  water,  \.  orks  itijahist  the 
summer  (u-  northwest  winds  even  beyond  Point  Concepcion.  Very  fre(|uently,  iu 
calm  weather,  a  great  extent  of  the  anirface  of  the  chaniud  becomes  iridescent  from 
the  thin  film  of  bitunuMi  s])read  (»ver  it.  The  rocks  along  the  shore,  evi'u  to  the 
westward  of  Point  Concepcion,  are  covered  with  it,  and  when  encamped  at  El 
Coxo,  in  1S.")(),  we  gathered  it  to  start  our  tires.  The  Indians  have  always  used 
it  to  pay  the  seams  of  their  canoes. 

Sulphur,  in  large  beds  and  of  sui)erior  quality,  exists  along  the  seaboard,  ami 
nmnifests  itself  iu  all  tlie  warm  springs. 

AVood  and  pntvisions  in  abundance  can  be  easily  obtained  here.  AYater  is 
lilentifiil,  but  not  so  readily  jirocurcd. 

A  very  short  distance  back  from  the  coast  line  is  a  range  of  rugged  hills,  over 
two  thousand  feet  high,  forming  part  of  the  Sierra  Concepcion,  (sometimes  called 
the  Sierra  Sau  Inez,)  whose  sides  are  sparsely  covered  with  timber,  and  through 
some  (»r  whose  gulliiis  and  gorges  pass  small  streams  abounding  in  the  finest  trout. 
From  others  issue  warm  springs  having  a  temperature  of  about  117°  Fahrenheit, 
and  highly  imi)regnated  with  sulphuretted  hydrogen.  The  height  of  the  springs 
by  barometric  measurement  is  about  one  thoiisaiid  two  hundred  feet.  They  lie 
behind  the  village  of  Montccito,  eastward  of  Santa  Barbara. 

The  coast  trail  to  San  Francisco  passes  along  the  shore  for  a  distance  of 
fifteen  or  twenty  miles  to  tlie  Gaviota^  Pass;  thence  inland  to  the  Santa  Inez 
Valley,  which  runs  nearly  jiaralh'l  with  the  coast. 

Kegular  communication  by  steamers  and  sailing  vessels  is  maintained  with 
San  Francisco  and  other  jxirts. 

In  l.-flLJ  Cabrillo  visited  this  place  and  found  great  nundicrs  of  Indians,  who 
came  off  to  his  ships  iu  larye  canoes,  aud  were  quite  hospitable.    Close  to  the 


COAST  riLOT  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


21 


slioro  lie  foiiiul  an  Iiuliuii  town  with  '■^ casus  ymmlcHP  To  it  he  yiive  tlio  iiaiiu' 
I'lioblo  (If  los  CaiHKis. 

The  const  liiic/rdm  tiautn  liarhara  lUjht  to  Point  Conceprlon  lii/lif  nnis  west  by 
south,  distance  thirt.v-si'voii  miles.  The  iii>;j;('(l  iiills  westward  of  the  (ia\  iota 
Pass  come  elosi'  to  tlie  shore,  Ibreiii^'  the  tiaveler  to  h'ave  the  beacii  lor  their  sea 
slope,  tlie  trail  ]>assiii}>'  over  steep  ridj^cs  and  across  shai  p  valleys. 

The  sandstone  terraces  of  the  immediate  vicinity  are  al)out  ci;4hty  feet  hi;;h 
at  tlie  Gaviota  Pass  and  dip  at  an  anj^le  of  forty  dej^rees  into  the  sea,  tbrminj;-  a 
bulwark  of  natural  masonry  against  further  eneroachments.  This  elevated  terrace 
continues  from  Santa  I'.arbara  to  Point  Concepcion.  In  this  distance  it  is  cut  by 
nunu'rous  arroyos  running  down  from  the  mountains.  There  is  «)nly  one  pass 
between  the  LMver  P.aenaventura  and  Point  Concepcion,  and  that  is  the  (iaviota, 
Avhich  at  its  summit  at  Santa  Cruz  is  seven  hundred  feet  above  the  ocean. 

TILE  sniooM. 


The  only  instance  of  the  .simoom  on  this  coast,  mentioned  either  in  its  history 
or  traditions,  was  that  occurriuj;'  at  Santa  IJarbara,  on  Friday,  the  17th  of  .lune, 
l.Sa!*.  The  temperature  during  the  morning  was  between  7.")0  and  StP,  and  grailu- 
ally  and  regularly  increased  until  about  one  o'clock  p.  m.,  when  a  blast  of  hot  air 
from  the  northwest  swept  suddeidy  over  the  town  and  struck  the  inhabitants  with 
terror.  It  was  (puckly  followed  by  others.  At  two  o'clock  the  thermonu'ter 
exi)oscd  to  the  air  rose  to  VS.i'^,  and  continued  at  or  near  that  point  for  nearly 
three  hours,  whilst  the  bin  wing  wind  raised  dense  clouds  of  inipalpable  «lust.  No 
human  b«'ing  could  withstand  the  heat.  All  betook  themselves  tt>  tlicir  dwellings 
and  carefully  closed  every  door  and  window.  The  thick  udohc  walls  wiudd  have 
recpiired  days  to  have  become  warnu'd,  and  were  conse<piently  an  admirable 
l)rotection.  Calves,  rabbits,  birds,  .S:c.,  were  killed;  trees  were  blighted;  fruit 
was  blasted  and  fell  to  the  ground,  burned  only  on  one  side;  and  gardens  were 
ruined.  At  live  o'clock  the  thermometer  fell  to  iL'L'o,  and  at  seven  it  stood  at  TT^". 
A  fishennan,  in  the  channel  in  an  op(>n  boat,  came  back  with  liis  arms  badly 
blistered. 

At  the  entrance  of  the  valley  of  El  Coxo,  near  Point  ConceiK'ion,  whilst 
engaged  in  making  astronomical  observations,  during  July,  August,  and  Septem- 
ber, 18.10,  we  frecpu'utly  experienced  at  night  hot  blasts  coming  down  from  the 
Sierra  Concepcion,  after  two  or  three  days  of  clear,  calm,  hot  weather;  the  north 
winds  apparently  bringing  the  heated  air  from  the  valleys  behind  the  sierra.  The 
records  show  many  cases  where  stars  suddenly  became  so  very  ditliised,  large,  and 
unsteady  by  these  short  hot  blasts  as  to  be  untit  for  observation.  lieyoml  the 
annoyance  and  delay  occasioned  by  this  circumstance  no  observations  were  made 
to  determine  the  temperature  of  the  heated  air.  It  had,  of  course,  not  near 
so  elevated  a  temperature  us  that  sweeping  over  Santa  Barbara,  and  was  <iuite 
litful. 


■M>  hhu  ?f»'i  ,"■■'- 


90 


COAST  riLOT  OF  CALIFOIINIA. 


POINT  CONCEPCION. 

This  cliaracteristic  and  romaikabU'  lioadlaiul,  about  two  hundred  and  twenty 
feet  in  heiyht,  lies  at  tlie  western  entrance  to  tlie  Santa  Barbara  channel.  Once 
seen,  it  will  never  be  forgotten.  When  made  from  the  northward,  or  from  the  east- 
ward, it  rises  as  an  island;  but  upon  approach,  is  found  to  be  a  high  i»romontory, 
stretching  boldly  into  the  ocean,  and  teiminating  abruptly.  The  land  behind  it 
sinks  comparatively  low,  and  at  first  gradually,  but  soon  rapidly  rises  to  the 
mountains,  -which  attain  an  elevation  of  about  two  thousand  live  hundred  feet. 
]>et ween  three  and  four  hundred  yards  south  of  the  face  of  the  capo  is  a  large 
rock  nearly  awash,  upon  which  some  of  the  California  steamers  have  struck  in 
very  foggy  w(!ather.  A  tojjogi'aithical  sketch  of  the  point  accompanies  the  Super- 
intendent's report  on  the  Coast  Survey  for  18ul. 

LIGIIT-nOUSE   AT  POINT   CONCEPCION. 

The  buildings  are  erected  on  the  extremity  of  the  cape  and  upon  the  highest 
part,  which  is  two  hundred  and  twenty  feet  above  the  sea,  and  covered  with  grass 
and  bushes  like  the  land  behind.  As  seen  from  the  southward  by  day  it  will  be 
jH'ojected  against  the  Sierra  de  la  C(mcepcion,  and  a|>pear  about  one-third  of  their 
height  from  the  water.  Tiie  part  of  the  range  behind  the  lighthouse  seems  very 
level  along  its  summit,  and  the  house  is  seen  about  one-third  of  the  length  of  the 
level  range  from  the  western  i)art  of  it.  The  structure  consists  of  a  brick  dwell- 
ing, plastered,  of  one  and  a  half  stories,  with  a  low  tower,  also  of  brick,  and 
plastered  white,  rising  from  the  center.  The  light  was  first  exhibited  February  1, 
lS."i(J,  ami  shows  from  sunset  to  sunrise.  It  is  a  primary  sea-coast  light,  ccmsisting 
of  an  illuminating  apparatus  of  the  (irst  order  of  the  system  of  Fresnel,  and 
exhibits  a  revolriitfi  irliite  U(jlif,  nJioicukj  a  Jianh  d'ery  h<ilf  miiiHfc,  throughout  the 
entire  sea  horizon.  It  is  elevated  about  two  nun  Ired  and  fifty  feet  above  the  sea, 
and  should  be  visible,  in  a  favorable  state  of  the  atmosi»here,  from  a  height  of — 

10  feet  above  the  sea,  at  a  distance  of  21.8  miles. 

20  feet  above  the  sea,  at  a  distance  of  2.3.;3  miles. 

30  feet  above  the  sea,  at  a  distance  of  24.4  miles. 

GO  feet  above  the  sea,  at  a  distance  of  27.1  miles. 

Its  geograithical  position,  as  given  by  the  Coast  Survey,  is: 

Latitude lU  20  i(Ui  north. 

Longitude •.   120  27  00     west. 

h.   III.     ». 

Or,  in  time 8  01  48.0 

^Magnetic  variation,  13°  .50'  east,  in  September  18r)0;  yearly  increase,  1'. 

FOO  UELIi  AT  POINT   CONCEPCION. 

A  fog  bell,  weighing  three  tlumsand  one  hundred  and  thirty-six  pounds,  is 
placed  on  the  edge  of  the  blulf,  seaward  of  the  lighthouse.    The  striking  machin- 


1  linndri'd  and  twenty 
irbaiii  ehannt'l.  Once 
ward,  or  from  the  oast- 
be  a  liigh  promontory, 
,'.  The  land  behind  it 
m  rapidly  rises  to  the 
md  live  hundred  feet, 
of  the  cape  is  a  large 
'amers  have  struck  in 
iccompauies  the  Super- 


and  upon  the  highest 
[tnd  covered  with  grass 
iward  by  day  it  Avill  be 
ibout  one-third  of  their 
light-house  seems  very 
rd  of  the  length  of  the 
sists  of  a  brick  dwell- 
ver,  also  of  brick,  and 
t  exlubited  February  1, 
ii-coast  light,  consisting 
ystem  of  Fresnel,  and 
minute,  throughout  the 
ifty  feet  above  the  sea, 
re,  from  a  height  of — 


Utiles 


y,  is: 

O         '  " 

. .     :U  20  4(».<j  north. 

.♦.   lliO  27  ()»»     west. 

h.   III.     V. 
..       8  01  48.0 

early  increase,  1'. 


'■Mk^:^mmim-^SSii&i 


View,  I'l,  Cniirfiir;..!!   h,';iilli>;-    S.  Ivl.v   Iv 


''■»m\;i^^^^ 


I  'oiii|i 


l.t.H,,, 

'   M.. 11,1, ,11 


I'-   niih'H 


d  thirty-six  pounds,  is 
The  striking  maehin- 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CATJFOIJNIA. 


23 


ory  oodiiiiosa  IViiinc  biiildiiij;',  wliitownslicd,  on  a  Irvrl  \vi(li  tlio  ^iioniid,  jiiid  Iiii\  inj>' 
the  fniiit  open  to  icci'ivo  the  bell,  wliicli  is  soiiiidcd  diiriii;;  tof;yy  or  otlior  thick 
wejitlior,  iii^lit  or  day,  every  tliirteeii  and  a  half  seconds. 

Tlie  lollowinfj  bearings  and  distances  are  taken  from  the  Coast  Survey  eliart 
of  this  h»«ality,  i»ultlished  in  l.S,"».'{. 

The  rock  oil'  the  west  end  of  the  San  ]N[iguel  Ishiud,  south  half  east,  distant 
twenty  tv.o  miles. 

The  east  end  of  San  Miyuel  Island,  southeast  by  south  quarter  south,  distant 
twenty-six  miles. 

The  southwest  end  of  Santa  Cruz  Island,  southeast  by  east  half  east,  distant 
forty  miles. 

Next  to  the  islands  of  the  Santa  r>arbara  Channel,  Point  Conce])cion  is  the 
most  prominent  and  interestinj;'  feature  Itetween  San  riancisco  and  the  i)eniii- 
sula  of  Lower  Calif(nnia.  It  has  very  justly  aiul  apjtropriately  been  termed  the 
"Cape  Horn"  and  the  "Ilatteras"  of  the  Pacilie,  on  account  of  the  heavy  north- 
Avesters  that  are  here  met  with  on  coming-  throujih  the  channel,  with  a  si"*'iit 
changeofclinuite  and  meteorological  conditions;  the  transition  beiiift' remarkably 
sudden  and  well  defined.  An  investi};ation  of  the  temperature  of  the  ocean, 
northwest  and  east  of  the  cape,  would  be  hijihly  instructive,  as  some  characteris- 
tics would  naturally  be  expected  from  the  abrupt  clianf^e  in  the  direction  ot  the 
mountains  and  coast  line.  AVe  have  frequently  seen  vessels  eominy  from  the  east- 
Avardwith  all  sail  set,  and  light  airs  from  the  north,  in  a  very  little  time  reduced  to 
short  canvas  upon  api)roaching  the  cape,  and  vessels  from  the  northwest  coming 
before  a  spanking  breeze  lose  it  within  a  few  miles  after  ])assing  the  cape  into  the 
channel.  These  last  would  be  tbrtunate  in  reaching  Santa  Ilarbara  in  a  day. 
"NVe  have  known  a  vessel  to  be  three  days  Avorking  from  San  IluenaA'cntura  to 
Santa  Ilarbara,  whilst  a  ten-knot  breeze  was  bhtwing  west  of  Point  Conce])cion. 

The  general  set  of  the  otf-coast  ciurent  is  in  the  direction  of  the  coast  line 
toAvards  the  southeast.  The  larger  mass  of  the  great  Japan  Warm  Stream  that 
reaches  the  American  coast  about  latitude  50°,  sAveei)s  southward  along  the  shores 
Avith  an  average  breadth  of  three  or  four  hundred  miles,  and  a  rate  of  about  six- 
teen miles  per  day.  On  ]March  24,  1815,  the  brig  Forester,  of  London,  in  latitude 
32°  4.V,  and  longitude  12CP  57',  only  three  hundred  and  fifty  miles  southwest  by 
Avest  from  Point  Concepcion,  rescued  three  dying  men  (the  captain  and  two  sail- 
ors) on  a  .Japanese  junk  that  had  diifted  for  scA'cntv-en  months  across  the  Pacific. 
She  left  the  port  of  Osaca,  Avas  almost  imnuMliately  surprised  by  a  storm  in  which 
she  lost  her  rudder  and  a  nmst,  and  in  tiiis  condition  had  remained  until  succored. 
She  lost  thirty-two  men. 

Durjng  some  summer  seasons  the  fog  is  almost  constant,  but  more  particularly 
among  the  islands.  For  the  space  of  six  Aveeks,  Avith  clear  days  and  nights  at  the 
cape,  the  islands  ha\'e  been  invisible.  Rising,  lioweA'er,  to  an  elevation  of  a  thou- 
sand or  fifteen  hundred  feet,  the  observer  plainly  sees  the  summits  of  the  islands 
OA^er  the  sea  of  fog  Avhich  envelops  them. 


24 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFOUXrA. 


Wlicii  tlic  fof-s  lu'i^vail,  they  ffonoriill.v  roll  in  from  seuwsu-cl  at  .smi.sct,  iiiiil 
soim'tiiiH's  clciir  awiiy  about  ten  (»'clocl<  next  inoriiiii^f. 

Point  Conccpcion  was  discovt'ivd  by  C'ahrilht  in  l."»li,»,  and  calh-d  Cape  (Jalcra. 
ir»'  jdaccd  it  in  latitude  .'!(;A°  north.  It  was  attorward.s  named  Punta  <le  la  Linipia 
('()n«'c]«'i(Ui. 

The  extent  ol'  shore  line  from  the  suutlieru  boundary  to  Point  Coneepeion  is 
about  two  hundred  and  lit'ty  miles. 

EL  coxo. 

Two  miles  east  ol'  Point  Coneeiwion  is  tlie  anehorase  of  El  Coxo,  off  the  en- 
trance to  the  valley  of  that  name.  This  anehoraj;e  is  a  better  one  than  that  of 
Santa  Marbara,  and  the  kelp  is  not  so  compact.  Aftei'  passinj;'  the  point  from  the 
■westwai'd,  at  a  distance  of  about  thrce-ciuarters  of  a  mile,  v«'ssels  may  run  east 
by  north,  and  ;;ra(lually  round  the  blult  one  mile  distant  from  tin;  cape,  yiviny  it  a 
berth  of  half  a  ndle ;  then  iiin  on  a  north-northeast  course  for  three-quarters  of  a 
mile,  when  the  valley  will  open,  with  a  sand  beach  otf  it.  Anchor  outside  or  in- 
side the  kelp,  accoidinj;  to  the  choice  of  dei»th;  live  fathoms  beinj;'  obtained  within 
a  (piarter  of  a  mile  of  the  shore,  with  hard,  sandy  bottom.  Ten  fathoms  water 
will  be  found  half  a  mile  from  shore. 

A  hydrographic  sketch  of  the  anchoraye  was  issued  from  the  Coast  Survey 
ollice  in  lS,"»ii. 

There  is  a  large  ranclio  at  El  Coxo,  and  it  is  one  of  the  very  best  tracts  for 
grazing.  The  beef  has  a  liner  flavor  and  more  delicacy  than  any  we  have  met 
with  on  the  coast.  At  the  head  of  the  valleys  and  in  the  mountains  is  a  s|)ecies 
of  large  live?  oak,  very  brash  when  newly  cut,  but  growing  hard  by  seasoning. 
AVillow  for  fuel,  and  water,  can  bo  obtained  here,  but  neither  in  abundance.  Thy 
water  is  disagreeable  to  the  taste. 

The  primary  astnmomical  staticm  of  the  Coast  Survey  was  on  the  top  of  the 
bbitf,  and  between  two  hundred  and  fifty  and  three  hundred  yards  west  ludf 
south  from  the  mouth  of  the  creek.     Its  geographical  position  is  as  follows  : 


Latitude U  20  .jii.u  north. 

Lou" itude llM)  2.")  ot)     west. 


Or,  in  time. 


S  01  42.(J. 


IVIagnetic  variation,  l.'P  50'  east,  in  Sei)tember,  isr)0;  yearly  increase,  P. 
In  passing  this  valley,  in  1703,  Vancouver  saw  an  Indian  village,  the  inhab- 
itants of  wliich  made  signs  for  him  to  land. 


ISLANDS  OF  THE  SANTA  BARBARA  CHANNEL. 

Tlu^  name  I'il  Canal  de  Santa  Barbara  was  given  by  Vizcaino,  in  I)eoend)er 
1(102,  to  the  narrowest  part  of  the  eliannel  lyiug  east  and  west,  and  about  sev- 
enty-two miles  in  length. 


I 


COAST  riLOT  OF  CALIFOUNIA. 


I 


ITntil  the  Coast  Survey  first  «'XiiiiiiiHMl  in  dctiiil  the  islnnds  lyinyotV  llic  niiiiii, 
Ix'twci'ii  Siiii  Dit'jio  iiiid  Point  Conct'inion,  iM»tliinji- iimiratc  \v;is  iinown  (»!'  tlicir 
iiiiiiilici',  iit'ciiiiiiritifs.  extent,  or  i»osition.  Ipon  iill  niiijis,  of  us  recent  date  as 
is,")!*,  an  island  eall4'd  San  .Inaii  was  laid  down,  and  npon  a  ina|>  of  lii(>  icjinhlie 
of  Mexieo,  compiled  in  tlie  liiited  States,  and  dateil  1SI7,  we  lintl  no  less  than 
twelve  laryc  islands,  the  jMtsitions  and  extent  of  wliicli  are  most  j;i(ttes(inel.v  eri'o- 
iie(Mis.  The  island  of  San  Miguel,  the  most  western  of  the  Santa  Marhaia  fironp, 
is  placed  seventy  niiles  sontheast  of  I'oint  ("onee])cion,  instead  of  twenty-threo 
miles  southeast  by  south  half  south.  The  same  ;;eneral  remarks  will  a|)ply  to  the 
coast  line  as  thereon  icpresented.  Thr«'e  larjic  rivers  are  made  to  How  iutt»thesea 
between  Santa  Harltara  and  San  Diej-o  Uay,  whi<'li  is  increased  in  si/.e  to  twenty 
miles  by  lilteen,  and  runninj'-  noitli,  whilst  two  others  rival  it  in  extent.  The  j;co- 
jiraphical  posititms  ;;iven  previous  to  the  C<tast  Suivey  o[K'rations  are  renmrkably 
erroneous.  We  recollect  well,  wlu'ii  cominj^  niton  this  (;oast,  of  llnilinj;' in  yood  nau- 
tical authority  I'oiut  Conccpcion  over  six  miles  distant  from  the  latest  (h'termiiia- 
tion  in  latitude. 

In  Findlay's  JJireetory  for  the  raeifie  Ocean,  |»ublished  late  in  l.S."il,  we  find  a 
deserii)tion  of  the  already  mentioned  San  Juan  Island,  but  it  does  not  j^ive  it  a 
very  detinite  location.  It  nmy  not  be  uninteresting;'  to  state  how  the  error  has 
been  perpetuated.  The  lirst  notice  we  ean  find  of  this  island  is  its  discovery  by 
Martinez,  in  17S!»,  on  his  passafi'e  from  ]\Ionterey  to  San  Ulas.  The  lU'xt  time  it 
turns  up  is  in  Vancouver,  vol.  II,  pa^e  -174,  where  the  I'ollowinj;'  account  is  i;iven: 

"At  the  distance  of  about  eiylit  leaj^nes,  souiowhere  about  north  Tt'P  west,  or 
north  <)()o  west  from  Point  de  la  Loma,  by  a  very  uncertain  estinnition,  is  situated 
an  island  called  St.  John's,  between  whi<h  and  the  coast  we  passed  Avitiiout  seein;»' 
it,  (althout>h  he  previously  states  havinj;'  seen  San  ClenuMite  and  Santa  (,'atalina,) 
nor  did  we  observe  it  while  we  ren\ained  at  anchor,  exceptinj;'  on  one  veiy  <',lear 
evening,  when  it  was  seen  from  the  presidio  (of  San  I)ie<;-o)  at  a  time  when  I  was 
unprovided  with  a  compass  or  any  other  means  of  iiscertuininy  its  directiiui,  and 
■was  therefore  only  able  to  }>uess  at  its  situation. 

"It  appeared  to  be  low  and  tiat;  is  but  seldom  seen  from  the  Presidio  of 
San  Die^o,  and  was  undiscovered  until  seen  by  Martinez,  a  few  years  before, 
in  one  of  his  excinsiiuis  alonj;-  the  coast." 

As  Vancouver  has  plotted  this  island  on  the  line  from  Point  Louni  to  Sail 
Clemente,  and  as  it  is  {generally  so  placed,  we  have  no  hesitation  in  assuming  that, 
duriufj,'  peculiar  and  extraordin:.ry  conditions  of  tlu'  refracti(»n  of  the  atnutspliere, 
the  i.sland  of  San  Clemente,  invisible  under  ordinary  conditions  of  refraction,  has 
been  mistaken  for  another  and  intermediate  island. 

Having'  visited  and  examiiu'd  San  Clenu'iite,  Santa  Catalina,  San  Nicolas, 
Santa  Cruz,  and  San  Mijiuel,  we  found  them  olferinj;'  no  inducenu'Uts  for  aj^ricul- 
ture,  and  very  few,  indeetl,  for  raising'  stock.  In  a  few  words,  we  may  (;Iiaracterizo 
their  disadvantages  as  want  of  water,  and  want  of  fuel,  with  high,  bold,  and  rug- 
ged sides,  which  in  many  places  become  precipitous.  The  surface  of  San  3Iiguel 
4* 


2() 


COAST  IMI>OT  OK  CALIFOlfXIA. 


iiiitl  S;iiitii  I'osn  is  ndliiif,',  ;iim1  covered  witli  ;;i;ish  jiimI  Imslies;  tlie  nunintiiins  of 
tSiiiitii  Ciitiiliriii  iire  iiliiiosf  iiiiieeessible,  iiiitl  Siiii  Nieliolits  iiiid  Siiii  Cleiiieiite  me 
eoiiipnsed  of  eoiirse  siiiidstoiie,  preHeiitiiiK'  a  dry,  siiiid.v,  ami  steiile  aspect. 

On  tlie  eliart  of  I  lie  coast  from  San  l)ie;;o  to  San  I'lancisco,  |nililislied  by  tlio 
T'niteil  States  Coast  Survey,  a  reniarkaltle  and  l»»'autil'id  exiiiltition  of  tlie  paiallel- 
ism  lietween  tlie  islands  and  the  ailjaceiit  coast  is  pieseiitc<l.  The  four  islands, 
Anacapa,  Santa  Crii/,,  Santa  IJosa,  and  San  Mi;;ue!,  with  the  rocks  sevt'U  miles 
west  l»y  north  from  the  last  named,  lyinj;'  broad  olf  the  coast  between  San  Ibienu- 
v«'ntnia  and  Point  ('oiicepeion,  liave  their  lonjier  axes  ])arallel  to  the  trend  of  the 
shoreline,  which  is  the  ftcueral  direction  of  the  Sierra  CoiKM-pcion  immediately  be- 
hind it.  In  Vizcaino's  voya^^e,  this  ]»aiallelisin  was  noted  west  of  Santa  Catalina, 
"  where  a  rejiular  row  of  islands  exist,  five  or  six  leagues  distant  from  each  other, 
all  ])opnloiis,  and  the  inhabitants  trading;'  with  each  other  and  the  main,  and  the 
islands  followin;;'  each  other  in  the  same  direction  as  the  main  land.'" 

Cortes  Shoal,  the  islands  of  Santa  Catalina,  San  Cleniente.  San  Nicolas,  witli 
John  lieji'y's  Itock,  seven  miles  fi(»m  its  northern  extremity,  have  their  lon<ier  axes 
northwest  by  west,  and  parallel  to  each  other,  whilst  the  island  of  Santa  Barbara 
is  on  the  prolongation  of  the  lonj^cr  axis  of  San  Clemeiite.  in  the  third  i»arallel 
the  direction  becomes  perpendi(!ular  to  the  first  described,  for  fnaii  latitude  .'5.'>o  (».V 
jioith,  the  trend  of  the  coast  and  hills  southward,  throu^^li  the  loiif'cr  axis  of  I'oint 
Loma,  will  pass  through  Los  Coronados,  althouyh  the  ishuids  lie  northwest  with 
respect  to  each  other. 

Navigators,  in  making  the  Santa  Barbara  Channel  from  the  northwest,  readily 
estimate  their  approach  in  thick  foggy  weather  by  the  pecnliar  odor  of  the  bitu- 
men, which,  issuing-  from  a  large  jiit  on  the  shore  about  eight  miles  west  of  Santa 
liarbara  and  floating  upon  the  water,  works  (((/(dust  the  summer  winds  far  beyond 
Point  Coneepcion.  This  set  to  the  w«'stward  is  found  to  exist  for  about  four  miles 
off  shore,  and  runs  at  a  maximum  velocity  of  a  mile  and  a  half  per  hour.  Further 
out  the  current  is  variable,  but  even  there  its  greatest  velocity  is  attained  when 
running  to  the  westward.  Ftoiii  '.'oint  Coneepcion  it  strikes  to  the  southward  ami 
westward,  being  doubtless  infhieueed  by  a  current  from  the  upper  coast. 

Vancouver  is  the  first 'xiio  calls  attention  to  the  bitumen,  in  the  following  lan- 
guage, vol.  II,  page  41',):  "The  surface  of  the  sea,  which  was  perfectly  smooth 
an«l  tran(pul,  was  covered  with  a  thick  slimy  substance,  which,  when  separated  or 
disturbed  by  any  little  agitation,  became  very  lununons,  whilst  the  light  breeze 
that  came  principally  from  the  shore  brought  with  it  a  strong  snu'U  of  tar,  or  of 
some  such  resinous  substance.  The  next  morning  the  sea  had  the  appearance  of 
dissolved  tar  floating  upon  its  surface,  which  covered  the  ocean  in  all  directions 
within  the  limits  of  our  view,  and  indicated  that  in  the  neighborhood  it  was  not 
subject  to  much  agitation." 

The  following  remarks  of  Sir  Edward  Behrher,  in  October  18;39,  are  taken 
from  the  Voyage  of  the  Sulphur,  vol  T,  ))age  .'J20:  "Oft"  this  part  of  the  coast  to 
the  westward  [of  Santa  liarbaraj  we  experienced  a  very  extraordinary  sensation. 


COAST  riLOT  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


27 


ns  if  til*' sliip  was  oil  flvo,  iiinl  iilfcr  a  very  close  iiiV('sti;;iitioii  iittiiliiitcd  it  to  a 
scent  rniiii  tlif  sliorr.  it  Iteiii;;'  iiioif  seiisiiiie  on  deik  tiiiin  ImIow;  iin«l  liir  lantl 
lii'«'«'/<>  coiitirniiii};  tills,  it  ocnirn-<l  to  in<-  tliat  it  nii^lit  iiiise  IVoni  iiii|)litlia  on  tiic 
siirl'acc."  TIh'  smell  of  lliis  as]i|iiiltiini  appears  (o  lie  oeeasionally  exiierieiieed 
quite  tar  IVomi  the  lan<l. 

Anion^'  tlie  islands,  as  far  as  Han  Nieolas,  the  euneiit  runs  to  tlie  sontliwani. 
On  tlie  Cortes  Slioal  it  lVet|iieiil!.v  niMs  ajiaiiist  tlie  iioilliwcst  wind  at  tlie  rate  of 
nearly  two  miles  per  lioiir.  At  otlier  times  it  lias  been  found  to  run  in  an  opposite 
direction  nearly  as  stron;^. 

A  preliminary  eliarl  of  the  eastern  entrance  to  llie  Santa  Harhara  Channel  is 
l»ublislied  Ity  the  < 'oast  Survey. 

It  may  not  he  lieie  amiss  to  call  attention  to  the  ahnndance  of  mackerel  fouiHl 
in  the  channel.  We  have  seen  the  watei-  fairly  alive  with  them,  and  have  caiijilit 
them  l»y  hundreds.  Craylisli  of  a  very  lar;;e  size  are  found  in  ^i'reat  niimhers 
aloii}"'  the  shoics. 

The  lainy  season  commences  in  the  early  )»art  of  Novemher,  and  continues 
until  the  middle  of  March.  The  quantity  »»f  rain  that  falls  does  not  avera;;*'  over 
lifteen  inches,  hut  some  seasons  are  marked  Ity  excessive  droiijjht.  Diirin;;'  the 
Avinter  southeast  ^ales  jtrevail,  and  sometimes  diirinj;-  the  summer  months  south- 
erly weather  will  hrin;;  up  heavy  rain. 


# 


f 


ISLANDS,  SHOALS,  AND  IMM'IvS. 

roUTKS   llANIv.* 

C(»mmonein;r  sit  the  southward,  the  hrst  object  that  claims  our  attention  is  the 

dan{:;erous  bank  and  I'oek  called  the  Cortes  Uank,  bearin;^  southwest  quarter  we-t 

from  the  southeast  end  of  the  island  of  Sail  Clenieiite,  and  distant  forty-six  miles. 

The  extent  of  this  bank  has  been  sounded  out  carefully,  and  found  much  j;Teatef 

than  the  eaily  examinations  led  us  to  supi>ose,     Within  the  limits  (»f  the  tift\- 

fathom  curve  the  {•ciieral  trend  is  (tarallel  with  the  islands  of  Santa  Catalina,  San 

Cleiiu'iite,  and  San  Nicolas,  and  it  stretches  about   seventeen  mih-s,  from  latitude 

32°  24'  ncu-th,  lon^itiule  llSo  rm'  west,  to  latitude  32°  32'  north,  lonj-itude  11!P 

17A'  west,  but  curves  sli^ihtly  to  the  southwest.     It  has  an  avera,n('  and  neaily 

uniform  width  of  three  aiul  a  half  miles.     The  luiture  of  the  bottom  is  hard,  <'oin- 

posed  of  white  sand,  broken  slu'Ils,  uid  line  coral  at  the  southeast  jioit ion;  and 

sand,  with  broken  shells,  at  the  northw<'st.     The  shoalest  and  most  dan;;erous 

l)art  is  that  known  as  the  lUslKtp  Koek,  iyin;;:  live  miles  from  the  southeast  tail  of 

the  hank,  and  haviii};'  but  two  and  a  half  fathoms  of  water  n])on  it.     Around  this 

dan<>'er  the  (h'pth  increases  };Tadually>  and  in  an  extent  of  two  and  a  half  miles  in 

the  general  direction  of  the  bank  reaches  but  tifteen  ■athoms.    The  geograithical 

position  of  these  rocks  is,  aitjuoximately : 

o    / 

Latitude 32  2.")=|  north. 

Longitude Ill)  0,"»    west. 

*]''<ii'  iiii  (.'xtciisiioii  of  this  bank  to  the  soutLcastward  mi.'c  aiiotliei'  page. 


MHVHiinaitKi 


28 


COAST  riLOT  OF  CALIFOILVIA. 


From  tlio  iiortliwcst  cud  of  tlie  isliiiul  of  Snii  !Nicoliis  tlic  rock  bcnrs  soiitli- 
oast  hiilf  soiitli,  «listiiiit  lift.v-scvcii  miles;  iind  from  tlic  soiitliciist  end  of  the 
island  of  San  ricmcnte  it  bears  soiitliwest  (jnarter  south,  distani  forty-six  miles. 

From  tlic  I'.islioj*  K'ock  to  tlic  west  end  of  San  ^li^j^iid  Island  the  course  is 
northwest  (luartcr  west,  and  distant  one  hundred  and  tiftcen  miles. 

The  next  shoal  s]»ot  is  one  of  ten  fathoms,  about  the  middle  of  ♦^hc  ltai:k,  and 
of  limited  extent,  beinf>'  only  half  a  mih'  squai'e  within  the  lift'  en-fathom  curve. 
Its  yeogra])hieal  position  is,  aiiproximately: 

Latitude IV2  L*fi]  north. 

Lonjiitulc 1 1!»  10.]  west. 

From  the  northwest  end  of  San  Nicolas,  the  spot  last  mentioned  bears  south- 
east by  south,  distant  fifty-four  nules;  and  from  tlu»  southeast  eiul  of  San  Cleni- 
ente  it  bears  southwest  (piarler  west,  distant  fifty  miles.  From  the  Jjisliop  Jvock 
it  bears  wes.  ([uarter  north,  distant  five  miles. 

To  the  northwestward  of  this  latter  sho;;!  s]»ot  the  depth  is  nearly  unifcrm  at 
f(»rty-nine  fathoms  for  seven  and  a  half  miles,  and  between  it  and  the  JJishop  liock 
the  depth  is  uuiform  at  alxmt  forty-three  fathoms. 

U])on  this  bank  the  cuirent  is  variable,  frccpu'Utly  setting-  a<jainst  the  strong' 
northwest  winds  with  a  velocity  of  nearly  two  miles  jter  hour,  and  producing'  at 
all  times  a  heavy  swell,  and  even  in  moderate  wcatlier  breaking  heavily  ui>on  the 
rocks.  In  passing  over  the  1)ank  at  i.ight  we  have  been  sensible  of  our  jtroxiniity 
t(»  it  by  the  incn'ased  swell.  In  tl'.«'  detailed  examination  of  1S,")0,  it  was  four  d 
that  the  general  set  of  the  current  was  to  the  southward  and  eastward,  and  the 
greatest  velocity  a  mile  and  a  half  per  hour;  but  no  statement;  is  nnide  ccaiccrning 
the  prevailing  wind. 

The  existence  of  this  bank  had  been  reported  several  times,  and  the  following 
]tositious  assigned  to  it: 

Swift's  Island,  hititiide  oo°  US';  longitude  ll'jo  or.',  as  seen  by  Captain  Aulick, 
United  States  nav^s. 

INu'k,  latitude  .">20  30';  longitude  111)0  00';  ]io  autlunity. 

Bank,  latitude  IV2°  2S';  longitude  \lH°  4L";  no  ..uthority. 

It  lies  in  the  direct  route  m)w  followed  by  the  Panama  and  San  Francisco 
steanislii|>s.  and  was  discovered  by  Cai>taiii  Cro])]ier,  of  the  steamship  Cortes  in 
^larch  l.srh).  His  ]tosition  was  tU'termiued  by  bearings  u|)on  San  Nicolas  and  San 
Clemente,  and  was  very  close,  l)eing  within  a  mile  of  the  latest  and  best  assigned 
])lace.  lie  says  Miat  the  water  around  it  was  in  violent  commotion,  and  thrown 
ji)»  suddenly  in  cohnnns  at  regular  intervals  of  four  or  live  minutes.  At  first  he 
thought  he  saw  breaki'rs;  and  occasionally  the  'vater  broke  as  on  a  reef,  but  he 
became  coiditicnt  that  the  disturbance  Avas  owing  to  submarine  volcan:*-  agency. 
The  spccinu'iis  the  botttmi  negative  this  id<'a.  He  found  his  dei»th  o»'  water 
redi'.ced  Iron'  forty-tW(»  fathoms  to  nim>,  which  convinces  us  that  he  was  on  the 
slioal  spot,  about  the  middle  of  the  bank,  an<l  saw  the  water  breaKing  upon  fht^ 
Jlishop  Ifock.  the  sanu'   appearance   that   he  witnessed    Iniving  been  seen  nniny 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFOEXIA. 


w 


times  since,  aiul  tlie  nature  of  tlie  rocky  bottom  and  deptli  of  water  siii)])ortin<» 
tlic  assnniption.  TJic  ]Htsiti<ni  ni'  the  bank  Avas  aftcrwi.vds  more  close'y  deter- 
mined by  tlie  connnander  of  the  steamshij)  Pacific;  but  in  tne  coast  survey  o]»er- 
ations  the  tcn-fatliom  sjiot  was  found,  and  the  surveyiiifj'  s-lioonei',  under  com- 
mand of  Lieutenant  T.  IL  Stevens,  United  States  navy,  used  in  that  duty,  was 
anchored  on  it  live  days. 

Attentii>n  was  subsequently  called  to  a  more  extended  examination  of  tho 
vicinity  by  the  cliitjti'r  shi]»  S.  S.  JJishoj),  (afterwards  (iray  Kafjh',)  of  Philadelphia, 
strikin<,Mi|Min  the  rock,  since  called  by  her  nanu-.  (bS,V»);  and,  under  inilavoiabUM'ir. 
cumstances,  two  ])oints  of  rock  were  sui»i)osed  to  exist,  to  which  ajiproxiniate  posi- 
tions were  assijiued.  In  18r»(J  the  bank  was  souiuh-d  out  to  the  extent  of  one  hun- 
dred and  thirty  sijuare  miles;  and  from  a  consideration  of  the  hijihly  favorable 
circumstances  under  which  this  last  sui'vey  was  made,  confidence  is  expressed  that 
the  ])oint  of  lock  above  nientioiu'd  is  the  only  one  e\istin,i;';  but  as  it  is  vi'ry  diifi- 
cidt  to  find  <letached  single  ]>oints  of  rock  below  the  siul'ace  in  a  sea-way,  we  shall 
not  be  snrjirised  if  others  be  eventually  foinid.  At  all  events,  the  lu'udent  naviji'a- 
tor  will  nive  this  bunk  a  f;oo<l  berth.  Its  existence  forcibly  suggests  the  prolni- 
bility  that  other  siibniarim>  ridges  lie  ])arallel  to  the  coast. 

A  chart  of  the  Cortes  Shoal  was  published  by  the  Coast  Survey  in  185G. 


ISLAND  OP  8A>:  c'i,i::meme. 

This,  like  all  tb"  ishmds  of  the  Savta  P.arbara  channel,  is  high  and  bold,  the 
southern  end  being  the  higher,  and  the  land  gradually  falling  to  the  nor*hwar<l. 

The  general  trend  of  the  island  is  northwest  by  we-;t;  its  length  twenty 
and  a  half  Juiles,  with  an  average  breadth  of  two  miles,  and  ,'it'ty  miles  in  circuit. 

The  s(mthwest  jtoint  of  the  islaiul  bears  west  half  south  from  I'oint  Loma, 
distant  sixty  miles.  At  the  norl'iwest  end  is  a  small  indentatioi.  of  the  shori  line 
forming  an  anchorage,  having  a  width  of  three-ipiarters  of  a  mile,  by  h;df  a  mile 
in  depth,  with  sotmdings  decreasing  from  twelve  fathoms,  (on  the  line  ol'  a  large 
iecky  islet  at  the  northwest  side  to  a  iioint  east  by  south,)  to  four  and  live  fath- 
oms close  in  shoi'c.  Kelp  will  be  found  in  ten  fatliDiiis,  but  the  bottom  is  tolerably 
regular  and  hard.  It  is  unything  l)ut  a  pleasant  or  safe  ancliuiiige  in  bad  norili- 
west  weather,  an''  even  in  heavy  southerly  weather  the  swell  mnsl  mil  in  disa- 
gi'cealtly.  .^  iiydrograiihic  sketch  of  it  was  issued  from  the  Cciast  Survey  Ollice 
in  IS.lL' 

Two  or  three  miles  s(tutheast  of  this  anchorage,  on  the  eastcin  side  of  the 
island,  another  is  laid  down  on  the  <'oast  Surv  y  chai  t. 

I'nder  the  scmtheast  end  of  the  island  anchorage  may  be  had  in  the  deeitest 
part  of  the  indentation,  called  Sauiggler's  «  ove,  but  tlu'  botttan  is  rockv  and 
irregular.  The  southeast  point  is  a  vast  san<lstone  pxramiil;  and  when  it  is 
bnaiglit  to  beai'  north,  and  the  shore  tniec  ((uarters  of  a  mile  distant,  the  anchoi'- 
age  will  lie  west  by  north  half  north,  one  and  three  (piartcrs  mile  inside  the  kelp, 
in  ten  to  fifteen  fathoms,  and  one-third  of  a  mile  from  the  narrow  sand  beach  ut 


30  COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFORNIA. 

tlip  foot  of  tilt'  cliffs.    Outside 'of  the  kelp  the  depth  ranges  from  ten  to  thirty 

filtl'....llS. 

This  luichorajie  will  afford  i)rote(*tiou  in  heav;,  lorthwest  weather.  A  hydro- 
ffrai>hie  sketch  and  view  of  it  accoiupauies  the  annual  Coast  Survey  import  for 
1850. 

The  soundings  around  the  island  show  a  dejtth  of  from  thirty-six  to  one  hun- 
dred and  thirty  fathoius  close  in  shore,  except  otf  the  northwest  point,  from  which 
a  reef  juakes  (mt  about  a  mile. 

Tlie  Coast  Survey  secondary  astronomical  station  was  at  the  northwest 
ancluu'age,  on  the  f>rassy  lise,  Just  uiside  of  the  hijuh-water  line,  and  bore  south 
17°  east  froiu  the  north  point  of  the  rock  islet  before  mentioned.  Its  {>'eograph- 
ieul  position  is: 

Latitude (approximate)    ."5;$  02  north. 

Longitude 118  ;51  Avest. 

Or,  in  time 7  54  10.0 

Neither  wood  nor  water  can  be  had  here.  Tlu^  whole  island  appears  unfit  for 
raising  stock,  on  account  of  the  want  of  water.  Very  few  trees  are  found,  and  the 
aspect  is  sterile. 

In  1802  the  following  report  Avas  nmde  upon  the  condition  of  the  island:  "The 
entire  sur(iic<  of  the  island  is  broken  by  gulches,  without  a  vestige  of  wood  or  a 
drojt  of  running  water.  No  inhabit:<nts  reside  ui)(>n  it,  nor  were  any  animals  found 
exce])t  about  one  hundred  and  titty  wild  sheejt.  Tlu»  highest  i)oint  of  the  island  is 
estiumted  at  about  one  thousand  five  hundred  feet." 

This  island  was  discovered  by  Cabrillo  in  1542,  and  called  by  him  San  Salva- 
dor, after  one  of  his  two  vessels.  The  present  innne  was  given  by  Vizcaino  in 
1002.     It  is  distinctly  visible  in  clear  weather  from  I'oint  Lonm  light. 

ISLAND  OP  SANTA  CATALINA. 

This  island  is  .seventeen  and  a  half  miles  long,  with  an  average  breadth  of  four 
miles  to  the  southern  ]>art,  and  two  mih's  to  the  northern,  wliile  the  shore-line 
anu>unts  to  ai»out  forty-two  miles.  It  rises  to  a  heiglit  of  about  three  thousand 
feet,  and  is  remarkable  for  the  great  transverse  break  or  (h'pression,  five  miles 
from  the  n(u-thern  end,  running  i)artly  through  it,  and  forming  an  anchorage  or 
cove  at  each  side.  The  land  coniu'cting  tlies(>  is  very  low,  say  not  over  thirty  feet; 
but  tlu'  hills  rise  up  on  each  side  two  or  three  tliousand  tcet,  and,  when  sighted 
from  th(>  north  or  south,  the  Aviiole  appears  like  two  very  liigh  islands.  The 
general  trend  of  the  island  is  west  by  north  three-quarters  north. 

Tiie  <lepression  in  tlu^  island  bears  south  southwest  from  Point  Fermin  (San 
P-'dro)  and  is  distant  eigliteen  and  a  half  mih's. 

The  harbor  (»!' cove  on  the  southern  side,  fiv(  ruiles  froi.i  flu  icrtheni  "'mI,  is 
only  on»'-third  (»!' a  mile  in  width,  but  its  ii|iproiU'hes  aie  bold,  an'',  so  far  iis  known, 


u 


"  ">  •  ^^w 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFOKXIA.  31 

frof  from  liiddcu  (laii<;i'rs.  To  find  it,  run  aloiij;-  tlic  southwest  side  of  the  island 
and  luako  the  di'iuossioii ;  then  stand  in  for  the  opcninji-,  ki'cpinjj;  a  littU'  U'ft  of 
niid-channcl  until  a  third  of  a  niile  inside  of  the  heads.  From  thence  keep  in  niid- 
ehannel  until  abreast  of  the  lonj^',  low  jxtint  on  the  rii^ht,  and  anchor  in  five 
fatlioins,  soft  bottom.  There  is  a  depth  of  three  fathoms  inside  of  the  low  i)oint, 
with  hard  bottom,  but  not  "ooui  enoufi'h  for  a  vessel  to  swinj--.  If  the  win<l  i.s 
blowing  from  the  northwest,  vessels  will  lose  it  at  the  heads,  and  perhaps  re(iuire 
to  l)e  towed  in. 

The  anchorajje  on  the  north  side  of  the  depression  is  also  small,  with  a  reef  in 
the  center  and  two  larjic  ontlyinj;'  rocks.  A  steanu'r  could  run  in  on  the  west  side 
of  the  rocks,  and  iinchor  ott'the  low  beach  in  ten  fatlioms,  when  the  reef  would  lie 
ncnth  bv  east  irom  her,  distant  an  eighth  of  a  mile.  Small  craft  will  here  find  pro- 
tection fronr  the  prevailing  winds,  but  will  experiein-e  diflieulty  in  p'ttinjj  out,  as 
theie  is  always  a  swell  settinj;'  in,  and  the  wind  blows  in  flaws  and  eddies  ai'ound 
the  hi;;h  hills.  ]>etween  the  two  points  forming  the  anchorage  the  distance  is  half 
ji  mile,  and  the  depth  one-third  of  a  mile. 

The  soiuidings  around  the  island  siio>v  bold  water,  from  nineteen  to  scventy- 
flve  fathoms,  close  in  shore,  with  no  outlying  rocks  except  oiV  the  north  cove.  The 
shores  are  rocky,  and  on  the  southern  side  fearfully  abrupt,  but  on  the  northern 
shore  there  are  several  indentations,  Avhere  boats  may  land  at  almost  any  season. 
Deep  and  ]>r(  "ipitous  gulches  are  formed  by  the  ridges  of  rock  running  diagomilly 
a<!ross  the  island  from  m)rtheast  to  southwest,  and  oc(!asionally  a  small  valley 
varies  the  scene.  Four  or  five  settlers  cultivate  these  sjtots,  but  their  inconsidera- 
ble extent  i)recludes  the  realizing  of  anything  beyond  a  bare  sustenance.  About 
midway  between  the  northwest  extremii,>  of  the  island  and  the  great  break  there 
is  a  spring  of  good  water,  and  at  the  southeast  point  good  Avater  has  been 
obtained  by  sinking  wells  to  a  depth  of  fifty  fee*^  or  more,  but  in  the  intermediate 
places  water  found  at  the  same  depth  is  brackish.  There  is  a  large  pond  on  the 
low  land  between  the  anchorages,  but  the  water  is  very  brackish.  Scridi-oak  is 
obtained  for  fire-wood,  and  a  growth  of  thorny  bushes  covers  the  whole  island, 
rendering  traveling  very  difiicult.  The  ishmd  Avas  partially  stocked  with  cattle 
and  sheep,  and  at  one  time  vast  nundters  of  Avild  goats  abounded,  but  they  have 
helped  to  supi)ly  the  California  market  Avith  fresh  meat.  In  IS(>,'J  sonu'  old  lead 
nuiu's  Avere  rediscoAen'd ;  the  ««'e  is  described  as  argeidiferous  galena. 

From  the  north  eml  of  the  near  large  rock  at  the  m»rtli  cove  the  Coast  Survey 
secondary  astronomical  station,  Avhich  was  on  the  edge  of  the  bank,  bore  south 
2~)0  west.     Its  geographical  i>osition  is: 

Latitude ;VA  2(1  .". t.7  n(nth. 

Longitude 1  IS  liS  15      west. 

/(.     m.     K. 
Or,  in  time 7  o.J  o.j.O 

This  island  was  discovered  byCjibrillo  in  1542,  ami  called  by  him  La  Victoria, 
after  one  of  his  two  vessels.    It  reeeixcd  its  present  mime  fiom  Vizcanio  in  Decern- 


n  T 


82 


COAST  riLOT  OF  CALIFOKNIA. 


bcr  1002,  wlion  it  was  thickly  iiilial>iti'tl  by  a  iK'ojtlc  loportcd  to  bo  very  iiisciiions, 
Itaiticiiliiily  ill  piUrriiiji'  :iii»l  <'(mr«'aliiiji';  soiiiccximiplcs  of  \vlii«"li  iiccoiiiplisliiiu'iitK 
they  j^avc  the  Spaniards,  I'lidrc  dc  la  Ascciicioii,  who  acccaiipaiiicd  this  expedi- 
tion, jiives  very  paiticiilar  deseiiptions  ol'a  kind  ol'  temple  t»»  tlie  sun,  witii  images 
and  idols,  foniid  near  the  t\vt»  eoves. 

This  island  is  distinctly  visible  in  clear  weather  Iroin  Point  Loiiia  li;;lit. 

Ilydroyraphic  sketches  of  the  anehoniges  have  been  publislied  Ity  tiie  Coast 
Siu'vey. 

ISLA^'D  OF    SANTA  BAnilATIA. 

This  is  one  of  the  only  two  small  islands  of  the  Santa  IJarbara  firoiip.  It  lies 
on  the  line  between  the  north  end  of  San  Clemente  and  the  east  «'nd  of  Santa 
Crnz,  and  almost  exactly  halfway  between  them.  From  the  north  end  of  Santa 
Catalina  it  bciirs  west  by  south,  distant  twenty-ttiree  miles. 

The  i'xtent  of  the  island  would  not  exceed  two  r.iiles  of  shoreline;  its  eleva- 
tion at  the  hi};hest  part  is  aiioiit  live  iiuiidred  feet,  and  the  top  has  an  area  of 
about  thirty  acres*  covered  with  soil,  but  no  water  is  found,  and  not  a  vestijic  of 
Avood.  The  shores  are  rocky  iiiul  ahriipt,  i)resentiiij;'  on  the  northeast  and  south 
sides  i)erpendicular  clill's  exjMtsed  to  the  full  force  of  the  ocean  swell. 

Landing  is  at  all  times  dillicult  and  daiij^crous.  The  wat<'r  around  it  is  dee]), 
and  there  are  no  outlyiii,ii"  rocks.  It  is  said  to  lie  much  mor(>  eiiV'.'loi»ed  in  fojis 
than  tiie  iieijihborinji'  islands.     Its  ai>j»roxiniate  j;eoj;rapliical  position  is: 

Latitude ;{;',  .W)  lutrtli. 

Loui-itude 11!»  Oli  west. 


ISLAKD    or    SAN   NICOLAS. 

Of  the  channel  islands  this  is  the  mosr  distant  from  the  coast,  as  well  as  the 
driest  and  most  sterile.  It  is  about  six  hundred  feet  lii;;Ii,  abrupt,  and,  like  Sail 
Clemente,  cctmparatively  llat-topited,  but  failinji-  to  the  soiitiierii  eml.  The  sides 
are  bold  and  preci]»itoiis,  and  composed  of  coarse  saiulstone. 

Jts  <;eiieral  directum  is  west-mu'tlnvest ;  its  len;jth  is  ei;;ht  miles,  with  an 
averaj;-e  and  nearly  uniform  width  of  three  and  a  half  miles,  whilst  the  extent  of 
shoreline  is  about  twenty-two  miles. 

The  north  point  of  the  island  bears  southeast  by  east  from  I'oiiit  Fermin,  dis- 
tant sixty-seven  miles;  the  line  passinj;'  one  mile  south  of  the  island  of  Santa  IJar- 
bara. 

At  the  north  end  of  San  JTicolas  heavy  breakers  make  out  two  miles  and  a 
half,  and  the  soiindint>s  towards  the  I5e,->j;-  liock  show  irreinular  and  rocky  bottom, 
r.reakers  also  extend  from  the  southern  ])oint  to  the  distance  of  a  mile  and  three- 
quarters,  according-  to  Kellet.     This  is  dtuibtless  the  ease  in  heavy  weather. 

The  .soundings  around  the  island  show  di'pths  varying  from  ten  to  forty-eight 
fathoms. 


COAST  riLOT  OF  CALIFOUXIA. 


33 


iniiit;'«'S 

t. 

If  Coast 


Off  tlio  southoiist  i)oint,  wliicli  is  low  and  sandy,  vossols  may  anchor  in  ten 
laHioiiis,  liaid  l)ottoni,  with  a  ciincnt  iiiiiniii.i;'  steadily  to  tlic  southward,  which 
I'lakcs  the  land'if"'  had,  as  the  surf  cuts  the  beach  at  an  acute  anj^le. 

The  ('oast  Survey  secon(!i>:y  astronomical  station  was  on  the  sandy  itoint.just 
reCeired  to,  and  its  j;('oj;rai>hical  jtosition  (U'tciiuined  as  t'i>llows: 

Latitude .'5:5  14  1 1.O  norlli. 


Lonjiitude 


11!)  L».")  (to     west. 


Or,  in  time 


7  oT  40.0 


.  It  lies 
of  Santa 
of  Santa 

its  eleva- 
II  area  of 
iestij;-e  of 
lud  south 

it  is  deci>, 
d  in   fojis 


)  north. 

:  west. 


I'll  as  the 

like  San 

The  si(k's 

with  an 
extent  of 

Minin,  dis- 
5anta  IJar- 

iles  and  a 
;y  bottom, 
and  three- 
ler. 
t'orty-oifiht 


This  island  was  not  seen  by  Vancouver  in  17!KJ. 

It  was  examined  by  the  early  fur  traders  (»(' the  Tnited  States,  and  on  account 
of  the  ji'reat  luiniber  of  soa-otters  found  there  was  known  by  the  name  of  Sea-Otter 
island,  and  its  south  point  placed  in  latitude  .'5;5o  17',  lonji'itude  llO^   10'. 

The  Ik'ijii  Rock  is  situated  on  the  i)rolonnation  of  the  lon.uer  axis  of  the  island 
of  San  Nicolas,  bearing-  northwest  by  west  half  west  from  its  nearest  (northw«'st) 
l)oint,  an<l  distant  seven  miles.  The  rock  is  about  forty  feet  hijrh,  bold,  and  well 
defined,  and  can  be  easily  seen  at  a  distaiu-e  often  miles.  The  souu<lin^s  betwt'en 
it  and  the  island  indicate  the  existence  of  a  submarine  rid{;e  connectinj;;  theui.  Its 
appr(»ximatc  j^eoyraphical  position  is: 

o         ' 

Latitude ;;;5  22A  north. 

Lon};itude 1 10  :iUh  west. 

It  was  named  after  the  shij)  .Tolin  IJejifi-,  which  struck  ujum  a  reef  lu'ar  it, 
September  20,  ISl'l,  and  was  nearly  lost.  The  foul  bottom  is  covered  with  keli>. 
The  i>osition  of  the  rock  relative  to  the  island  of  San  Nicolas  is  shown  on  tho 
general  chart  of  reconuoissauce  published  by  the  Coast  Survey. 

ISLAND  OF  AXAfAPA. 

This  is,  in  fact,  a  cnriously  formed  yroup  of  three  islands,  extondiuj;  in  a 
nearly  east-northeast  direction,  their  entire  Icnj^th  beinji'  five  miles.  The  west 
end  of  Anacapa  is  a  peak  nine  hniulred  and  thirty  feet  in  heij;ht,  with  a  base  of 
over  two  miles  by  tluee-quarters  of  u  mile.  This  is  sepaiated  from  the  middle 
island  by  a  jjap  ten  feet  wide,  through  which  boats  can  pass.  The  mi<ldlc  island 
is  nearly  two  miles  long  by  live  hundred  yards  wide,  whilst  the,  eastern  island  is 
little  over  a  mile  long  by  live  hundred  yards  wide.  The  gap  separating  the 
middle  and  eastern  islands  is  over  two  hundred  yards  Avide,  but  so  com[»Ietely 
tilled  with  rocks  as  to  be  impassable  for  boats,  which  can,  however,  land  on  the 
uorth  side  of  the  island. 

The  west  end  of  Aimcapa  is  four  and  a  half  miles  east  half  north  from  tho 

eastern  point  of  tlie  island  of  Santa  Cruz.      The  d»'pth  of  water  between  these 

islands    is    thirty    fathoms,    with   a   very    regular    bottom   composed   of   gray 

sand,  coral,  and  shells.      Tlie  eastern  end  of  the  island  bears  southeast  three- 

5* 


M 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFOJIXIA. 


quarters  cast  from  the  Santa  Barbara  lifjlit,  distant  twent.\ -eifjlit  miles,  and  from 
I'oint  llneneme  or  Conversion,  the  nearest  point  of  the  mainhuid,  sunt  invest  by 
soutli  one-tliird  soutli,  distant  nine  and  a  (juarter  mih's. 

Anacapa  is  in  hititude  .'U°  01'  north,  and  between  h>ngitiuh\s  110°  10'  and 
119°  24'  Avcst.  Upon  it  the  site  for  a  lifilif-house  hnnhven  recommended  by  the 
Superintendent  of  the  United  States  Coast  Survey. 

The  ishind  is  composed  of  coarse,  darli  gray  sandstone,  very  rotten  and 
('rnmbliii<r.  The  sides  are  perpendicuhir,  and  from  two  hunched  and  tifty  to 
three  hundred  feet  hij;ii.  The  main  i)eak  is  marked  on  the  north  side  by  several 
deep  gulches,  with  almost  vertical  sides  running  from  the  summit  to  the  bluft. 
The  whole  formation  is  filled  with  innumerable  cavities,  giving  it  the  appearance 
of  an  einirmous  blackened  honeycomb.  At  the  eastern  extremity  is  found  a  very 
beautiful  arch  in  one  of  the  outlying  rocks.  The  soil  is  loose  and  thin,  jtroducing 
only  a  few  dwarfed  species  of  cactus  and  a  thick-leaved  succulent  i)lant  common 
to  the  sea-coast  in  dry  sandy  localities.  Not  a  droi)  of  water  is  to  be  fouml  on  the 
island. 

Anacapa  is  a  place  of  great  resort  for  the  seal,  sea  lion,  and  formerly  the  otter, 
but  the  latter  have  been  nearly  all  killed  otf. 

It  was  on  this  island  that  the  steamship  AVinfield  Scott  ran  ashore  during  a 
dense  fog  at  midnight,  December  li,  IS.");},  in  calm  weather.  The  vessel  wa< 
steaming  at  full  speed,  and  ran  between  and  upon  the  rocks  with  such  force  that 
she  remained  fast  by  the  bow  until  heavy  weather  broke  her  up.  The  course  of 
the  steamer  had  been  taken  from  Point  Conception,  but  without  a  knowledge  of 
the  currents. 

Vancouver,  in  his  narrative,  calls  this  island  Enneeapah,  and  re|)eatedly 
mentions  it  by  that  name;  but  upon  the;  chart  of  his  survey  and  explorations  it  is 
engraved  Enecapah,  which  has  given  rise  to  every  variety  of  spelling.  Old 
Indians  at  the  present  time  pronounce  it  En-nee-ah-pagh',  with  a  very  strong 
guttural  intonation, 

A  chart  of  Anacapa  and  the  eastern  end  of  Santa  Cruz  was  published  by  the 
Coast  Survey  in  1850,  and  a  preliminary  map  showing  its  relation  to  the  mainland 
in  18.j7. 

ISLAND  OF  SANTA  CRUZ. 


This  island  is  the  largest  of  the  channel  grou]),  and  lies  broad  off  the  coast 
oi>posite  the  town  of  Santa  Barbara,  at  a  distance  of  twenty  miles.  Its  general 
direction  is  east  and  west,  with  a  length  of  twenty-one  miles  and  an  average  width 
of  four  miles,  Avhile  the  extent  of  its  shore-line  is  not  less  than  fifty-three  miles. 

Ou  the  ncu'therii  side  of  the  island,  and  near  the  middle,  the  shore  makes  a 
moderately  dee^)  curve,  forming  a  roadstead  called  Prisoners  Harbor,  at  the 
opening  of  a  valley,  where  plenty  of  wood  and  water  can  be  obtained.  Anchor- 
age may  be  had  a  qaarter  of  a  mile  ott"  the  middle  of  the  beach  in  fifteen  fathoms, 
sandy  bottom;  but  there  is  no  protection  from  the  hefivy  swell  setting  in  with  a 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFOIINL.V. 

iiortliwcstor.      It  must,  liowevor,  iilVord  cxcclU'iit   rcf'iij,'*^   in   soutlicaMf  wcatlicr. 
A   liydro^iJiipliic   skotcli  (tf  tlic  harbor  was   pu1)lislu-*l  l»y   tlio  Coast  Siirvt-y  in 

Two  miles  ofl'  tlio  south  side  of  the  oastoni  oiul  of  the  ishiii«l  aiiclioraj;'*'  is 
laid  down  oil  tlu'  recent  ("oast  Siiivey  charts  in  nine  fathoms,  over  a  bottom  of 
broken  shells.  In  this  position  the  east  end  of  the  island  bears  nortlu'ast  three- 
([narters  east,  distant  tiiree  and  three-quarters  miles,  and  the  west  end  of  Ana- 
capa  bears  north  half  cast,  distant  five  and  a  half  miles;  another  anchoraj;e  is  laid 
down  at  the  southeast  part  of  the  island  in  a  small  cove  open  to  the  south.  It 
is  nearly  two  miles  noithwestward  of  a  lar^e  outlyinj;'  rock,  and  from  it  tlie  east 
end  (»f  iSanta  Rosa  bears  southwest  three-quarters  south,  distant  six  miles. 

Tile  souiidinjfs  around  tlie  islaiul  give  deep  water  close  to  the  shore;  but 
tliere  are  rocks  showin<:f  (piite  i)liiinly  one  mile  from  the  southwest  point.  A  chart 
showing  the  hy<lrogra[»hy  of  the  eastern  end  of  the  island  was  published  by  the 
Coast  Survey  in  18.")0. 

The  island  is  bold,  and  about  one  thousand  seven  hundred  feet  in  height. 
Its  eastern  part  is  extremely  irregular,  barren,  and  destitute  of  water;  and  the 
surface  of  the  northeastern  [Hutioii  is  thickly  strewn  with  large  angular  pie<'es  of 
stone,  broken  as  if  with  a  hammer.  Several  sjiecies  of  cactus  and  some  <»f  the 
coarse  grasses  flourish.  The  only  wild  animal  found  here  is  a  small  gray  fox,  of 
which  there  are  great  numbers. 

Santa  Cruz  Island  is  c«>mi)osed  of  coarse,  (hirk  gray  sandstone,  crumbling 
and  rotten,  liko  that  of  Anacapa. 

The  CU)ast  Sur\  ey  secondary  astronomical  station  was  on  tlie  eastern  side  of 
the  frc^sli  water.    Its  geograi)hical  position  is: 

Latitude.'. .34  01  (K».8  north. 

Longitude 11!»  40  00     west. 

/(.     til.        s. 

Or,  in  time 7  58  40.0 

From  the  Santa  Barbara  light  we  have  the  following  bearings  and  distances: 
East  jMiint  of  Santa  Cruz  Island  southeast  two-thirds  south,  distance  twenty- 
four  miles. 

Prisoners  Harbor  south  by  east  half  east,  distance  twenty-two  miles. 
West  point  of  Santa  Cruz  Island  south  by  west  half  west,  distance  twenty- 
one  miles. 

A  site  for  a  lif/ht-house  at  the  eastern  end  of  the  island  has  been  reported 
upon  and  recommended  by  the  SuiK'rintendent  of  the  Coast  Survey  to  the  Light- 
house Board. 

This  island  was  called  .luan  Itodriguez  by  Ferrelo,  who  (!ommanded  the  ships 
of  Cabrillo  after  his  death,  which  took  place  either  in  Prisoneis  llailuu",  or  in 
Cuyler's  Harbor  (island  of  San  Miguel.)  Tlie  greater  probability  rests  with  the 
former,  as  there  they  could  olitain  water,  and  oak  w»)od  for  repairs,  &e.,  while. 


86 


COAST  riLOT  OF  CALIFOIJNIA. 


iicitlicr  is  to  be  \v.u\  in  the  lust-mentioned  liaibor,  except  water,  duiinfr  the  ruiny 
season. 

The  ffronj)  eoiniiiisinff  Santa  Cruz,  Santa  I'osa,  and   San  Aliguel,  was  dis- 
covered and  called  San  Lucas  by  Cabrillo  in  1542. 

ISLAM)   OF   HAXTA  ROfiA. 


This  is  the  niiiMle  island  of  the  frroup  oft"  the  coast  between  Santa  P.aibarii 
and  I'oint  ConceiM-ion.  Its  H'l'iieial  shape  is  that  <»>' a  paralleloyrain,  with  the 
direction  of  the  lonpT  axis  almost  exactly  east  and  west,  and  fifteen  miles  iu 
len;>tli;  and  the  shorter  north  and  south,  {iiving  it  a  width  of  ten  miles.  The 
extent  of  shore-line  is  about  forty-two  miles. 

On  the  northwest  side  of  the  island,  and  midway  between  the  north  and  west 
])oints,  a  reef  extends  out  for  a  distaiu'e  of  a  mile  and  a  (piarter.  Anchorage  is 
laid  down  on  the  recent  Coast  Survey  charts  about  the  niiddh'  of  the  Five-mile 
IMji'lit  on  the  northeast  side  of  tlie  island.  A  (h'otli  of  eleven  fathoms  is  };iven 
when  the  west  end  of  Santa  (.'ruz  bears  northeast  by  north  threc-quarti-rs  north, 
distant  eiylit  miles.  Another  anchorage  is  laid  down  on  the  scmtheast  face  of  the 
island  in  a  small  cove  open  to  the  east-simtheast,  with  a  low  sand  point,  forming; 
the  south  i)oint  of  the  cove.  It  is  between  four  and  five  miles  southwest  by  west 
from  the  east  point  of  the  island. 

There  is  a  good  passage  between  Santa  Cruz  and  Santa  Eosa,  with  a  width  of 
live  miles,  and  one  between  it  and  San  Miguel  of  four  miles.  Uoth  passages  are 
frccpu'iitly  used  by  the  California  and  Panama  steamships. 

The  soundings  around  the  island  do  not  show  as  deep  water  as  around  the 
others.  On  the  northwest  and  northeast  sides  from  fifteen  to  twenty  fathoms  are 
found  two  miles  from  shore,  but  on  the  southeast  and  southwest  sides  the  water 
is  much  deeper. 

The  outline  of  the  island  is  bold.  It  is  not  so  high  as  Santa  Cruz,  but  attains 
an  elevation  of  one  thousaml  one  huiulred  and  seventy -two  feet.  The  hills  are 
rolling,  and  covered  with  coarse  grass  and  bushes.  Xo  harbors  exist  arouiul  its 
shores,  which  are  steep  and  broken.  The  relative  position  of  Santa  Kosa  in  the 
gi'oup  of  the  Santa  Uarbara  islamls  is  shown  on  the  reconnoissance  chart  of  the 
Coast  Survey. 

The  approximate  geographical  position  of  the  south  i)oint  of  the  island  is : 

c  " 

Latitude S3  'hi  north. 

Longitude 120  04  west. 

For  the  western  point  we  have: 

Latitude 33  .Wi  north. 

Longitude 120  12^  west. 

On  some  early  Spanish  charts  the  western  two  of  the  Santa  Urabara  Lslaiuls 
are  called  San  Miguel  and  Santa  llosa,  (naming  the  western  first,)  and  upon 


COAST  riLOT  OF  CALirOlINIA. 


37 


others  Santa  'Hjirbara  niul  San  Miguel.     Tlio  prosont  names  and  order  are  tliosi; 
adopted  1».\  ViUM'dUver  in  IT'.K?. 


ISLAND   OF   SAN   MKUKL. 


This  is  the  most  ^vestern  of  tlie  Santa  Uarltara  (Miannel  Islands,  ha\  in;-'  its 
lon;j:er  axis  l.vinjj- I'ast  lialC  north,  and  seven  and  one-half  niih's  in  leii;;th,  witii  an 
avera^ic  breadtli  of  two  and  a  half  miles.  The  extent  of  shore  line  is  twent.v-one 
miles.  Jts  western  extremity  is  hold  and  narrow,  gradually  inereasin;;'  in  hri-ailth 
until  it  attains  three  and  a  half  miles.  As  seen  from  the  southwestward  this  end 
of  the  island  ap]>ears  to  he  several  iumdred  feet  in  hei};lit,  and  e()mi»osed  of  sand 
dunes,  tliereiu  ditVerin*;-  from  all  the  other  islands.  The  eastern  face  is  nearly 
straijiht  for  two  miles;  the  southern  face  is  nearly  strai;iht  alon;;-  its  whole  leufitli, 
with  hif^h,  abrupt  shores;  and  from  thirty  to  thirty-seven  fathoms  water  are 
found  elos*'  in  shore.  On  the  northeast  side  of  the  island  is  the  small  bay  ealled 
C'uyler  Harbor,  olf  which  lies  a  rock  cu'  islet  more  than  a  fourth  of  a  luile  Ionf>-, 
and  several  hundred  feet  hi;;h.  From  this  islet  to  the  deepest  part  of  the  harbor 
the  <listauee  is  a  mile  ami  a  quarter,  and  the  course  southwest.  Close  undi'r  tli« 
western  side  of  the  harbor  is  anchorage  in  six  fatlnuus,  secure  from  every  wind 
except  the  ninth,  which  rarely  blows  her«'.  The  eastern  part  of  the  i»ay  is  full  of 
rocks  and  reefs,  and  onj^lit  to  be  avoided.  The  reef  in  the  midiUe  of  the  bay  bciirs 
southwest  from  the  west  end  of  the  islet,  and  is  distant  half  a  mile.  It  is  the 
same  distance  from  the  west  \)o'uit  of  the  bay,  near  the  anchoraj^'e,  and  bears  east 
by  south. 

Scmthwest  by  south  half  south  from  the  west  end  of  the  islet  is  a  rock,  and 
rocky  \)ottom,  distant  a  third  of  a  mile;  and  on  the  sanu'  line  anotlu  If  u  mile 

•listant.  The  s<mthern  part  of  the  islet  is  about  half  a  ndle  from  the  ■ .  shore  of 
the  bay.  The  bay  shores  are  hij^h,  steep,  and  rollinj;',  and  covered  with  c  >arse 
grass  and  bushes.  Ther"  is  no  water  here  in  summer,  but  during  the  winter 
water  »hains  down  the  gully  at  the  beach  in  the  middle  anil  southern  part  of  the 
liarl)or. 

A  hydrograi)hic  sketch  of  Cuyler  Ilarbor  was  published  by  the  Coast  Survey 
in  isr)i>. 

The  western  point  of  the  island  bears  sonth  by  east  quarter  oast,  distant 
twenty-live  miles  from  Point  Coucepcion,  and  southeast  by  s(Mitli  half  south,  dis- 
tant thirty-five  miles  from  J'oint  Argu«'llo. 

From  the  west  point  of  San  Miguel  Island  the  Bishop  Eock  bears  southeast 
q\iarter  east,  distant  one  hundred  and  fifteen  ndles. 

A  sea-coast  light  has  been  reported  upon  lor  this  point  of  the  island,  and  the 
subject  referred  to  the  Lighthouse  Board. 

Sheej)  and  some  stock  have  been  placed  upon  San  Afiguel,  but  the  success  of 
the  experiment  has  been  doubtful — certaiidy  unremunerative. 

The  Coast    Survey   seeomhiry   astrononncid    station    is    on   the    southwest 


38  COAST  PTIOT  OF  C'AT.IKOIfNIxV. 

piirt  of  Ciiylcr  riiirbor,  abont  forty  fct'l  ;  p.  o,,  (lie  sidi'-liill.     Its  froognipliical 
]M>sitioii  is: 

LatitiKlc,  (ai)itro.\iinat(') ;?4  0;{        iiorlli. 

J.onnitinlc 120  20  27  west. 

/(.      III.        H. 

Or,  ill  time S  (H  L'l.S. 

Titles. — The  corrcctod  ostablisliiiiciit,  or  incaii  interval  between  the  time  of 
the  moon's  transit  and  the  time  of  hi},'h  wat»'r,  is  i»/(.  liam.  The  mean  rise  and  fall 
of  tides  is  ."{.7  feet;  of  si>rin^'  tides,  "i.l  feet;  and  of  neap  tides,  2.8  feet.  The 
mean  duration  of  the  Hood  is  (iA.  \:\iii.,  and  of  tlie  ebb  (i/i.  r»m.  Tlie  averaj;*'  dilfer- 
ence  between  the  correeted  establishment  of  the  a.  in.  and  i>.  m.  tides  of  the  same 
day  is  Ih.  40m.  for  hij;'!!  water,  and  l/«.  ()»».  for  low  water.  The  dilferenees,  when 
the  moon's  declination  is  greatest,  are  2/i.  ')Ai)i.  and  2/t.  12hi.,  respectively.  The 
averajie  dilference  in  heijiht  of  these  two  tides  is  1.(5  feet  for  the  hifjh  waters,  and 
2,.")  feet  for  the  low  waters.  AVhen  the  moon's  d(>clination  is  <j;reatest  these  differ- 
ences are  2.0  feet  and  .{.({  feet,  n's|)eetively.  The  average  dilference  of  the  liij;liest 
hijih  and  lowest  l«)w  waters  of  the  same  day  is  .^.S  feet,  and  when  the  moon's  decli- 
nation is  f-reatest,  G.8  feet.  The  hiyhest  liiji'h  tide  in  the  twenty-four  hours  o<;cnr.s 
abiuit  S/(.  .TtHJ.  after  the  moon's  iip]»er  transit,  (southing;-  vhcn  the  moon's  declina- 
tion is  north,  and  about  .'$//.  .")lw.  before,  when  s(ui  Hie  lowest  of  the  hnv 
waters  o(!curs  about  seven  and  a  half  hours  after  the  n.^.icst  hifi'h  tide. 

To  find  the  times  of  hiyh  and  low  waters  tirst  comjiiite  them  for  San  Diej^o, 
and,  from  the  uumiiers  thus  obtained,  subtract  V,)iii.  for  Ciiyler  Harbor. 

San  ]\Ii{>uel  was  discovered  by  Cabrillo  ;!i  l.">-t2,  and  Cuyler  Harbor  is  sup- 
posed by  some  to  be  the  bay  in  which  he  wintered.  He  died  January  5,  I'Ali, 
havin}>'  directed  Bartolome  Ferrelo,  his  pilot,  to  assume  the  command  of  the  expe- 
dition and  continue  the  exploration  as  far  uortli  as  possible.  Ferrelo  afterwards 
named  the  island  in  whose  harbor  his  commander  had  wintered,  Juan  Itodriy;uez. 
It  is  sometimes  called  San  IJeriiardo. 

Cuyler  IlarlKu- Avas  named  by  the  United  States  Coast  Survey  in  1852,  after 
Lieutenant  Cuyler,  United  States  navy.  • 

Two  rocks,  showing;  themselves  well  above  Avater,  lie  northwest  by  wc^st  from 
the  western  extrenuty  of  San  Miguel,  the  larj^er  being  distant  live  miles.  It 
l)ears  south  half  east,  distant  twenty-two  miles  from  I'oint  Concepcion,  and  south- 
southeast,  distant  thirty  miles  from  Point  Arguello.  Off  the  inner  aiul  snudler 
rock  a  reef  extends  a  short  distance  to  the  southward  and  westward.  Deep  water 
is  found  around  the  rocks,  and  vessels  may  pass  between  them.  These  rocks  are 
designated  as  I?ichardson's  Rocks  on  recent  English  charts.  A  rock  above  water 
is  laid  down  two  and  a  half  miles  north  by  west  quarter  west  from  the  western 
point  of  San  ^Miguel.  It  has  deej)  water  close  to  it,  ami  on  recent  English  charts 
is  designated  as  Wilscm's  l{ock.  The  total  extent  of  shoreline  of  the  Santa  Bar- 
bara Islands  is  about  two  hundred  aiul  thirty-two  miles. 


ROo{?rni)lii('al 

5       noiUi. 
1>  27  west. 

1  lil.S. 

tlu'  time  of 

rise  and  lall 
8  foet.  Tlio 
■oriif>«'  (liflcr- 

of  the  siiiiio 
rt!ii('('s,  wlicii 
■tively.    The 

waters,  mid 

these  dirt'er- 
f  the  liijiJiest 
noon's  (h'cli- 
homs  oeciirs 
ion's  deelina- 
())■  the  h)\v 
e. 

San  Dieffo, 
r. 

rbor  is  snp- 
lary  5,  ir>4;5, 
of  the  expe- 
»  afterwards 

Kodriguez. 

1  1852,  after 


y  west  from 
3  miles.  It 
,  and  soiitU- 
xnd  smaller 
Deep  water 
se  roeks  are 
diove  water 
tlie  western 
»lish  charts 
Santa  Bar- 


*?]«ai 


n    viji,..|i.. 
\iiw     I'l  Ai 'Vii.'!!,.   l.,Mi  iij.,;  S  ^   I-:      uiiis.s    -,  .ml.  s 


Vii'w  nl'  I'l,  s.,|    |,,..,,iiic   N  li     "'    .  r,,j,i|,,i^..      ,  mill's 


COAST  riLOT  OF  CALIIOHNIA. 


39 


FROM  POOT  C'ONCErCION,   ^OKTHWAKD. 

Tlio  first  lu'iKllaiid  to  the  nortlnvaia  of  Point  Coiicoptioii  is  JN.iiit  Av.u'iu'Uo,* 
(listiiiit  twelve  miles,  aiul  bearinj;  northwest  by  west  half  west.  Tlie  shore  is  hold 
and  eonipaet,  eurvinji-  slij-htly  t<»  the  eastward  between  the  two  points,  and  the 
iiiotintains  immediately  l)ehind  are  not  less  than  three  thonsand  feet  in  heif-ht. 
Tv,!)  or  three  handled  yards  olf  Point  Ar->iiell()  are  some  detached  roeks,  ui»oii 
■which  the  steamship  Yaidcee  IMade  struck  and  was  lost  oji  the  1st  of  October, 
1851,  and  four  hundred  and  fifteen  persons  perished. 

From  this  point  the  trend  of  the  coast  is  nortlnvest  to  Point  E"yes,  two  hun- 
dred and  forty  miles  distant,  passing  tanj-'ent  to  Point  Sur  in  latitude  JiO©  11)^' 
north,  and  inside  the  South  Farallon  otf  San  Francisco. 

Eif^ht  miles  north  of  Pt)int  \r<;uelIo  a  small  stream  emitties  into  tiu' ocean. 
It  was  (considered  by  Vancouver  t!ie  laij;('st  he  had  seen  south  of  the  Cohnnbia, 
but  it  is  insi-nilicant  and  unimportant.  Jle  states  tiiat  on  the  old  Spanisli  charts 
it  is  called  the  Kio  de  San  I'.alardo.  On  a  French  chart  (»f  1S41  it  is  c.dled  the 
San  CJeraldo;  in  Tebeidcotrs  collection  of  charts,  1S4S,  it  is  called  the  Pivev 
P>enar(lo;  on  the  Coast  Survey  charts  it  is  designated  La  i'luissima,  from  the  Mis- 
.sion  La  Purissima  C>>;icepcion,  situated  a  few  miles  inland.  On  the  State  map  of 
California  it  is  called  the  Sa.i  Jnes.  It  rises  in  lon;;itude  1  IIP  L'U',  about  fifteen 
miles  from  the  coast,  and  runs  pai-llel  therewith  behiml  the  Sierra  Com  epeion. 

The  first  point  northward  of  Point  Arjiuello  is  Point  Purissima,-  If  which 
makes  a  reef  about  a  fourh  of  a  mile  to  tiu'  south-southwest.  This  is  known  on 
the  coast  as  I'oint  Pedeiiiales,  sijiuifyin};-  Point  of  Flints,  but  freciueiitiy  ;::id 
erroneously  printed  I'edro  Nales.  Formerly  it  was  called  San  Pe<lro  Nolasco, 
Near  this  point  tlu'  steamshp  Edith  was  lost  in  ISll),  The  State  suivey  of  Cali- 
fornia places  Pedernales  oidy  two  miles  t(»  the  northward  of  Arjiuello. 

Between  I'oints  Sal  and  Purissima  a  snndl  stream  called  the  (luyanuis  opens. 
From  Point  Arguello  north  by  west  two-thirds  west,  and  distant  nineteen 
miles,  is  Point  Salt,  see  Aiew,  which  is  nuirked  by  streaks  of  yellow  sandstone, 
except  at  the  extrenu'  ixunt.  It  is  a  bold,  mountainous  headland,  marked  by  sev- 
eral dark,  sharj*,  rocky  hills  several  hundred  feet  hi;^li,  from  one  to  three  hundred 
yards  from  the  point.  The  rid,ne  stretches  ii.uind  nearly  east,  increasing  in  heijiht 
for  four  or  five  miles  witii  alt«'rnate  rid  ,v  s  and  valleys,  the  ridges  being  from 
eight  huiulred  to  one  thousand  two  luuidred  feet  high.  Th^'  side  of  this  mountain 
spui'  protects  the  aiu-horage,  and  lucsent.s  to  the  south  a  great  wall,  which 
extends  niu'th  78<3  east  for  one  and  five-sixteenths  miles,  to  the  opening  of  a 
slight  valley  nuirked  by  a  few  bushes,  and  near  tlie  iKU'therii  part  of  a  half-mile 
stretch  of  sand  beach  guanhMl  by  constant  rollers. 

The  three-fathom  line  stretches  three  hundred  and  twenty  yards  southwest 
from  the  i»oint  and  is  marke<l  by  bi'<'iikers.     The  "outer  lireakcr"  lies  five  hiin- 


*Niiin(Mi  l)y  Viiiicoiiver  in  Novfinbcr  17U3. 

t  Xatiu'd   l)y   ViiiU'imvfr  i.i  Niivt'iiilicr   t/OH,  after  tlio   (•oiiiiiuuKlinit   of  (li(>   I'lcsidio   of  Sail 
VnvufiMfo, 


■p 


40 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFOKXIA. 


ilrod  and  sixty  yards  south,  H'P  west,  from  tlie  point,  with  ten  fathoms  close  to  it 
except  on  tlie  east  side.  A  rock  and  heavy  breakers  lie  south  four  hundred  and 
thirty  yards  from  the  point,  and  between  these  and  the  outer  breaker  is  an  occa- 
sional break  on  ;;  ro(  U  with  twelve  feet  watei'.  The  south  end  t.i'  "Seal  Kock,"  (an 
islet  forty-live  feet  liijih  and  nearly  one  hundred  yards  in  extent,)  lies  south  <i(P 
east,  seven  hundred  yards  distant  from  the  westennuost  part  of  IVMnt  Sal;  but 
the  north  side  of  the  islet  is  only  two  hundred  yards  otf  the  nearest  shore,  with 
thrc"  fathoms  between  them.  Two  hundred  yards  off  the  southwest  face  of  the 
islet  are  <,'onstant  breakers  and  a  rock,  besides  several  sunken  rocks,  having  but 
two  to  four  feet  upon  tluMU.  Along  the  south  face  of  the  point  a  depth  of  three 
fathoms  is  found  within  one  or  two  hundred  yards. 

The  curve  in  the  coast  under  Point  Sal  is  about  three-ciuarters  of  a  mile  deep 
and  tw(»  miles  across,  with  soiuidings  in  seven  fathoms,  over  a  very  uniform  bot- 
tom (if  hard  gray  sand;  a  depth  of  twelve  fathoms  is  found  from  half  to  one  mile 
off  shore. 

The  roadstead  forms  tolerably  good  shelter  from  the  prevailing  northwest 
winds,  but  is  always  subject  to  a  very  heavy  swell  with  theiu.  It  is  broad  open  to 
the  southerly  winds  and  swell.  The  best  anchorage  is  in  seven  fathoms  water, 
about  tive  hundred  yards  south  78^  east  from  the  north  side  of  Seal  Ivock,  with 
the  extreme  end  of  Point  Sal  Just  o[ten  ;  bottom,  hard  gray  sand. 

Tills  roadstead  was  surxeyed  in  18U7,  and  a  chart  of  it  published  in  18G8,  bj' 
the  Coast  Survey. 

This  stretch  of  the  coast  is  A'ery  similar  to  that  behind  Coneepeion  and 
Arguello,  but,  after  passiug  Point  Sal,  the  mountains  fall  back,  and  the  shore  is 
formed  of  sand-hills.  The  general  trend  hence  is  north,  until  the  coast  com- 
mences Sivecping  westward  to  form  the  bay  of  San  Luis  Obispo,  and  the  shores 
become  high  and  abrupt. 

The  line  of  <v/»«/  m(i(/iictic  riiriation  of  14°  east  cuts  the  <'oast  line  in  latitude 
c-r»o  01'  north,  and  crosses  the  meridian  of  1121°  ,W  west  in  hititude  33°  oo^'  north. 
It  moves  annually  southward  about  a  mile  and  a  half. 


SAN  Lri!^  omsro. 

This  bay  is  an  open  roadstead,  exposed  to  the  southward,  and  even  during 
heavy  northwest  weatiun-  a  bad  lateral  swell  rolls  in,  rendering  it  an  uncoiulbrtable 
an<'horage.  The  landing  is  frequently  very  bad,  and  often  impracticable,  but  the 
best  i)lace  is  in  the  mouth  of  the  creek,  keeping  the  rocks  at  its  nn)uth  on  the 
'larboard  hand.  Fresh  water  may  be  obtained  at  a  small  stream  oi)eiiiiig  ttn  the 
beach  half  a  mile  west  of  (he  creek.  In  the  coarse  sandstone  blutf  between  these 
two  places  are  found  gigantic  fossil  renmins. 


Off  Point  Sun   A«/.v,   whi<h  forms  the  southwest  part  of  (he  bay,  are  s( 


)iue 


rocks,  and  in  making  the  an(;horage  vessels  should  give  this  i)oiut  a  berth  of  half 
u  mile,  passing  in  six  or  eight  fathoms;  run  on  a  ncn-th  by  east  course,  and  am-Iun' 
three-fourths  of  a  mile  from  shore  in  six  fathoms,  s  ticky  bottom.     Four  fathoms 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


41 


can  be  got  about  a  fourth  of  a  milo  from  the  beacih.  lii  winter,  anelior  far  enoujjh 
out  to  clear  Point  San  Lnis  if  a  southeaster  shouhl  come  up.  Diu'iiifj  soutlierly 
wentlicr  laiidiiij;'  is  tVeiiueiitly  efl'ectecl  at  the  waterinj^-  place  when  impracticable 
at  tiic  creek. 

The  distance  from  the  rock  oft"  Point  San  Luis  to  the  mcmth  of  the  creek  is  a 
mile  and  a  half;  from  the  same  ro(;k  to  a  white  rock  beariiij,'  north  7(P  cast  the, 
distance  is  two  and  a  (pmrter  miles;  and  a  black  rock  lies  halfway  between  the, 
white  rock  and  the  mouth  of  the  creek. 

The  Coast  Survey  secondary  a.stroiu)niical  station  is  on  the  bluff  at  the  east 
side  of  the  si)\all  fresh-water  stream,  west  of  the  creek,  atid  its  geographical 
position  is : 

Latiiude  35  10  'M.'t  north. 

Longitude 120  -13  31     west. 

h.    m.     ». 
Or,  in  time 8  02  54.1. 

The  magnetic  variation  was -IP  17'  east  in  Fehruary  ISjl;  yearly  in- 
crease, 1'. 

Tides, — The  corrected  establishment,  or  mean  interval  between  the  time  of 
the  moon's  transit  and  tiie  tiiue  of  high  water,  is  10/i.  Sin.  The  mean  rise  and  fall 
of  tides  is  .">.(i  feet;  of  spring  ti<h>s,  4.S  feet;  and  of  neap  titles,  2.4  feet.  The 
mean  duration  of  the  flood  is  (I//.  2~»n.,  and  of  the  ebb  ."»//.  .jSm.  The  average  dilfer- 
ence  between  the  corrected  establisliiuents  of  I  lie  a.  m.  and  p.  m.  tides  of  tlu'  same 
day  is  1//,  2iin.  for  high  water,  and  l/(.  Ow.  for  low  water.  The  ditferences  when 
the  moon's  decliimtion  is  greatest  ai  '/(.  Omj.  and  \li.  2.Sw.,  respectively.  The 
average  dilference  in  height  of  these  two  tiih's  is  1.5  feet  for  tlie  liigli  iMitets,  and 
2.0  feet  for  the  low  waters.  When  the  moon's  deeli  iiion  is  greatest,  lliose  liilfer- 
ences  are  2.0  feet  and  3.1  feet,  respectively.  The  average  dilfereni  o!  the  Idgher 
high  and  lower  low  waters  of  the  same  day  is  5.4  feet,  and  wiien  tlie  nn)on'8 
declination  is  greatest,  (».]  feet.  The  higher  high  tide  in  the  twenty  iir  liours 
occuis  about  0/i.  lV2m.  after  the  nmon's  upper  transit,  (souihin;;,  when  tiu'  moon's 
det'lination  is  north,  and  about  2h.  r>liti.  beforr,  when  soutli.  The  lower  of  the 
low  waters  occurs  about  seven  houi's  after  the  liighei'  high  tiiic  The  greiitest 
observi'd  dilference  between  the  two  low  waters  of  one  day  was  t.O  et,  and  the 
greatest  diflerence  between  the  higher  high  and  lower  low  wai'  one  day  was 

8.3  feet. 

To  Ibid  the  tinies  of  high  and  low  waters,  lust  compute  them  from  San  Diego, 
and  to  the  times  thus  obtained  add  30w.  for  San  Luis  Obispo. 

The  town  of  San  Luis  Obispo,  which  fakes  its  iianu'  from  the  ^Mission  of  that 
name,  founded  Septend)er  1,  1772,  is  not  on  the  bay,  but  is  sitmifed  about  ten 
miles  in  the  interior,  in  the  middle  of  an  extensive  and  excellent  grazing  country. 
Conmninication  is  luaintained  with  Sau  Francisco  and  other  port.s  by  regular 
sleamers  and  Hues  of  sailing  packets. 
6« 


t 


7 


COAST  riLOT  OF  CALIFORXIA. 


The  bay  was  discovered  by  Cabrillo  in  1542,  and  called  by  liini  Todos  Santos. 

A  preliminary  chart  of  the  harbor  of  San  Luis  Obispo  was  issued  from  the 
Coast  Survey  oflice  in  1H')2. 

To  the  northwest  of  the  bay  of  Sau  Luis  Obisi)0  rises  to  a  great  heij-ht  the 
I\ronn'  de  Huchon,  which  is  readily  distinguished  in  coining  fron>  the  northward  or 
southward. 

The  northwestern  part  of  this  mountain,  though  cut  by  deep  gulches,  is  very 
plainly  marked  by  three  terraces,  each  of  several  hundred  feet  in  height.  No 
other  i)oint  of  the  coast  is  so  decidedly  marked. 

We  have  been  informed  by  old  otter  hunters  on  this  coast  that  there  exists  a 
sunken  rock  about  eight  miles  south-southwest  from  Point  San  Luis,  and  further- 
more that  they  had  found  keli)  upon  it  iu  four  fathoms.  On  the  old  S[»anish 
charts  an  island  ap])ears  laid  down  in  thai  direction,  but  distant  about  eight 
leagues,  Ou  Tcbeniiotis  chart  is  placed  a  "doubtful  island  from  Spaui^'i  charts" 
lilty-one  miles  south  OIP  west.  One  <»f  the  I'acilic  mail  steamships  lay  to  in  a  south- 
east gale  and  thick  fog  off  Point  Concepcion,  and  drifting  to  the  northward  camo 
nnexi»ectedly  upon  a  suidcen  rock,  upon  which  the  sea  was  breaking  heavily. 
The  commander  supposed  the  vessel  to  be  then  off  ^'oint  Sal,  and  had  so  plott<'d 
the  rock  upon  his  chart;  but  ujton  being  informed  of  the  alleged  existence  of  a 
rock  oft"  San  Luis  Obispo,  he  was  satislied  that  l."e  ha<l  been  near  it,  but  unfortu- 
nately had  no  opportunity  of  determining  his  position. 

This  locality  demands  a  thorough  examimitiou,  as  it  is  in  the  direct  track  of 
the  whole  California  trade  from  San  Francisco. 

From  Point  San  Luis  the  coast  trends  in  a  straight  line  west-northwest  for  a 
distance  of  eight  miles,  and  close  along  the  shore  of  this  stretch  are  several  lai'go 
rocks.  Thence  the  coast  treiuls  abruptly  to  the  north,  to  the  high  conical  rock 
called  El  yu  ro,  distant  eight  miles — these  two  shores  forming  the  seaward  base  of 
Mount  Buchcm. 

From  El  Moro  the  shore-line  gradually'  trends  to  the  westward,  thus  forming 
a  deep  indentation  or  bay,  called  Los  llsteros  on  the  old  Spanish  charts,  but  desig- 
nated as  the  Estero  Bay  on  the  Coast  Survey  chart.  It  was  discovered  by 
Cabrillo  iu  15-H-*,  and  heic  he  obtained  wood  and  water,  liehind  El  Moro  are 
several  lagoons  or  streams,  and  the  high  land  retreats  for  some  distance,  leaving 
the  shore  low  and  sandy,  while  the  north  shore  is  rugged,  and  guarded  by  rocks. 
The  northwest  point  of  the  bay  is  called  Punta  de  los  Esteros  on  the  old  Spanish 
charts,  and  bears  northwest  half  north  from  the  west  point  of  Mount  Buchon, 
distant  thirteen  nules.  A  line  joining  these  two  points  shows  that  the  bay  is 
about  live  miles  deep. 

From  Point  Argiiello,  Punta  de  los  Esteros  bears  northwest  by  north,  distant 
fifty-three  miles. 

From  Point  Los  Esteros  to  the  western  point  ol  the  anchorage  of  San  Simeon 
the  coast  runs  nearly  straight  northwest  by  west  for  a  distance  of  lifteen  miles. 
The  shores  are  not  so  bold  as  to  the  southward  or  northward,  and  the  nu)untains 


# 


*    lllil|lllss    I     1(1    lull 


:-i 


'■"'■^'    "f  I'l.  .liMs    |;i,i 


w   :  \ 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFOltNIA. 


43 


fall  woll  back,  Icaviiif;'  a  fine  rolliii};-  country  of  no  great  clovalion,  and  well  suited 
to  ajirici'lturc.  >Vo  have  seen  wild  out.s  growing  here  over  six  feet  in  lieight — not 
one  or  two  stalks,  but  in  acres. 


<m  / 


BAY   OF   SAN    SIMKON. 

Tills  is  a  small  exposed  roadstead,  but  affords  tolerably  good  anchorage 
during  northwest  winds.  The  southwest  jtoint  ct'  the  bay  beais  nortliwest  by 
west  from  Point  Esteros,  and  is  distant  fifteen  miles.  The  indentation  of  t\w 
RlKue-line  forming  the  bay  trends  between  n(n'th-i;<«irhwest  and  nortli  for  Isaif  a 
mile,  and  then  sweeps  away  lo  the  westward  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  gradually 
taking  a  southeast  direction.  Tee  land  behind  the  bay  is  comparatively  low  and 
gently  I'olling,  the  high  hills  retiring  well  inland.  Tin-  high  hills  behind  this  shore 
are  marked  by  redwood  trees  along  their  ciost  line,  and  upon  some  of  their  flanks. 

Vessels  conung  from  the  nor'hward  may  run  boldly  round  the  southwest 
point,  within  a  few  bundled  yards  ov  the  shcne  in  eight  or  nine  fathoms,  round  up 
to  nortli,  and  anchor  anywhere  off  the  sand  beach,  in  five  fathoms,  hard  l)ottom, 
and  a  little  more  than  a  <piarter  of  a  mile  froui  shore.  The  beach  is  half  a  mile 
long,  stretching  well  out,  and  reiulenng  the  landing  disasTeeable  with  any  swell; 
but  in  such  cases  it  is  usual  to  hind  at  the  western  part  of  the  beach.  Eastward 
of  the  sand  beach  the  sh.orc-liue  is  bluff  i.ud  guarded  with  rocks.  Vessels  from  the 
southward  must  make  short  tacks  close  in  shore,  or  they  will  assuredly  miss  it. 
About  eight  miles  south  of  the  Piedras  Blancas  is  a  three-mile  stretch  of  timber 
upon  the  low  roding  ridge  bordering  the  shores.  Ar  d  two  miles  northward  of  this 
tind)er  is  another,  but  smaller,  extent  of  wood.  T'.iese  are  good  marks,  but  the 
oidy  sure  marks  for  it  j;re  the  Piedras  Blam^as,  as  will  be  hereafter  shown.  It 
■was  in  this  bay  that  the  steamship  Pioneer  p'.it  in  leaking  badly;  was  driven  or 
draggerl  upon  the  beach,  and  after  being  abandoned  by  the  underwriters,  was  got 
off  and  carrried  to  San  Francisco,  iiie  bay  affords  not  the  slightest  refuge  iu 
southerly  weather.  A  hydrographie  sla'teh  of  it  was  published  by  the  Coast  Sur- 
vey in  IS.")!*. 

In  making  (his  harbcu'  from  the  northward  vessels  nnist  sight  the  Piedras 

Jilanvds,  (Whitii  llo(;ks,)  four  miles  west  three-quarters  north  of  tlio  southwest 

l)oint  of  San  Simeon.     They  are  two  large  white    bpip-topped  rocks,  and  nothing 

else  like  them  is  found  on  this  part  of  the  coast.     AVhen   the  outer  rock   beaj.s 

north-northwest  about  two  miles  distant,  it  bears  a  very  striking  resemblance  to  a 

lion  roHchant.    The  geographical  position  of  the  outer  and  larger  rock  is,  approxi- 
mately: 

O  I 

Latitude 35  39  „ortli. 

Longitude 121  15  west. 

From  Point  San  Luis  they  bear  northwest  three-quarters  west,  distaiit  thirty- 
eight  miles. 

From  Point  Esteros  they  bear  northwest  by  west  half  west,  distant  eighteen 
nuh's. 


J 


I 


I- 


44  COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFOliNIA. 

From  Toiut  Arguello  they  bear  nothwost  half  nurtk,  distant  seventy-two 
miles. 

The  secondary  astronomical  station  of  the  Coast  Snrvey  at  San  Simeon  is  on 
the  rise  just  off  tlie  heaeli,  and  bearing  north  5°  vest  from  the  sonthwest  i)oint  of 
the  bay.    J ts  {geographical  position  is: 

O         I  II 

Latitnde 35  38  2-1.4  north. 

Lonj-itude 121  10  22     west. 

h.   m.      H. 
Or,  in  time 8  04  41.5 

Tliis  bay  is  snpposed  by  some  to  be  the  "Bay  of  Sardines"  of  Cabrillo,  where 
he  anchored  and  landed  in  1542. 

Nearly  half  way  between  the  west  point  of  San  Simeon  Bay  and  the  Piedra« 
Blancas  a  small  contracted  anchoiage  is  laid  down  on  the  Coast  Snrvey  chart. 

From  riedras  Blancas  the  coast  trends  northwest  half  west  for  a  distance  of 
fifty-seven  miles,  in  an  almost  perfectly  straight  line.  At  a  distance  of  eif^hteeu 
nules  from  these  rocks  the  above-mentioned  bearing  cuts  a  bold  blutV  and 
ronnded  point  called  I'nnta  Gorda,  off  which,  and  for  two  or  three  miles  along  the 
shore  northward,  there  are  many  rocks.  This  point  is  the  Cape  San  Martin  of 
Cabrillo.  lie  placed  it  in  latitude  37°  30'  north;  Imt  api»lying  the  corrcctiim 
obtained  from  his  erroneous  (U-tcrmination  of  San  Diego,  we  obtain  3r»o  50'  north 
as  the  ])osition  of  San  Martin,  which  is  very  nearly  its  proper  latitude.  As  there 
is  one  point  niuler  Cape  Mendocino,  iruu-e  generally  known  as  Pnnta  (lOida,  it  is 
wcommended  that  this  point  retain  the  name  given  to  it  by  Cabrillo,  especially  as 
all  his  names  have  been  cast  aside. 

Continuing  on  the  same  bearing,  and  at  a  distance  of  forty-nine  miles  from 
Piedras  lUancas,  is  Point  Snr,  sometimes  called  Lobos,  making  out  nearly  half  a 
mile.  As  seen  from  the  north  or  south,  at  a  distance  of  ten  miles,  Point  Sur 
appears  as  a  high,  large,  round-t«)ppcd  island;  bnt  njton  ai)i)roaching  it  a  low  neck 
of  land  is  seen,  connecting  it  with  the  main.  Its  approxinuite  geographical  posi- 
tion is : 

O  ' 

Latitnde 30  19  north. 

Longitude 121  52  west. 

Vanconver,  in  passing  down  the  coast  in  1793,  thought  this  "  small,  higli, 
rocky  Innip  of  land,  lying  nearly  half  a  mile  from  the  shore,"  was  detached,  and 
that  it  formed  an  island. 

The  highest  peak  of  the  range  bordering  the  coast  lies  six  miles  sqnare  in 
from  Point  Snr,  and  attains  an  elevation  of  fonr  thonsand  four  hundred  and  four- 
teen feet. 

Still  continning  on  the  sann;  bearing,  tifty-seven  miles  from  Piedras  Blancas 
and  seven  and  a  half  miles  from  Point  Sur,  another  slightly  projecting  point  is 
passed,  about  a  mile  to  tlie  eastward  of  the  course.    Thence  the  coast  tiends  more 


i\'enty-two 

10011  is  on 
st  point  of 

.4  north. 

I     Avest. 


lillo,  Avliere 


lie  riodruR 
>•  oliart. 
(Ustauce  of 
of  eifilitoen 
L  blutV  and 
'S  aloiij;'  the 
n  Martin  of 
>  correction 
)0  50'  north 
.  As  there 
Gorda,  it  is 
'specially  as 

miles  from 
learly  half  a 
s,  Point  Siir 
it  a  low  neck 
iphical  i)0si- 

;  19  north. 
L  52  west. 

'  small,  high, 
ctached,  and 


lies  square  in 
:ed  and  four- 

dras  Blaneas 
eting  point  is 
h  trends  more 


^P^-^'        ^p^m^-^,....,, 


"'■:¥f^-^i^^r^m^^. 


T--^.   3(C^ 


\'if'w  111'  I'l    S 


'"■  '"■^"■"'!^  N  \  w  ^  u-;i'n,„|,.,ss 


I'.ISS     I       t  IUl\,-H 


■  '  ">Jlt-~-*ft-i 


.Stir  ■-*"*»>>-  .n*^*!- 


Vieworp,   I.i„.,sX'!K.hv,n,n,.ass:,Mi|..s 


&?*V'^M»«rt»«,»*Hi»-ft4*ft-a.'«*l«W»-n*| 


i%".' 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFOJiNlA.  45 

to  tlio  castwiird,  niimiiifi;  iioith-iiortliwcst  Tor  «'i<;ht  miles  to  I'oiiit  Cypress,  aiid 
liiissiii;,^  I'oiiit  4'iiriiiel.  the  |Hiiiit  south  of  Ciiniiel  liiiy. 

From  I'oiiit  Aruiiello  to  I'oiiit  Siir,  tlie  henrin;,'  is  north  IP  west,  mid  llie  tlis- 
taiiee  one  hnmlied  und  twenty  mih's.  From  I'oint  Sur  to  Piinta  de  h)s  IJeyes  the 
beurinfj  is  nortli  4.'P  west,  iin»l  distance  one  Imndred  iind  «'i;;hteen  miles. 

The  nioniitains,  which  iiad  fallen  back  iiehind  lios  l-^steros,  now  ;,nadnally 
a]>proacli  th<>  shore-line  nortli  of  San  Simeon;  and  ai)ont  ten  miles  north  of  I'ie- 
dias  lilaiicas  tlu-y  come  down  abrnjitly  to  the  coast,  and  run  j>arallel  with  it  to 
I'oint  Carmel,  foiniinf,'  the  boldest  iind  most  compact  shoie  that  we  have  yet 
passed,  and  attaininj^  a  uniform  elevation  of  nearly  four  thousand  feet.  Thes" 
mountains  were  called  l)y  Cabrillo  the  "  Sierras  Atlas,"  but  at  jireseiit  the  raii^x'  is 
known  as  the  Sierra  de  Santa  Lucia.  Fiom  their  abrupt  faces  we  have  seen  cas- 
cades fallin^f  from  a  lieij,dit  of  forty  or  fifty  feet  directly  into  the  sea. 


rAKMKL   HAY, 


Between  Point  Carmel  and  Point  Cyju'css,  which  are  abotit  three  miles  ajiart, 
lies  the  small,  rocky,  and  unsafe  bay  of  Caiinel.  At  the  southern  ;  xtremity  is  a 
small  cove,  sutliciently  land-locked  and  jtrotccted  foi'  small  vessels.  Li  the 
vicinity  there  is  an  extensive  (piarry  of  granite,  and  several  small  coastinj;  vessels 
are  emjtloyed  tor  its  transportation  to  San  Fiancisco;  but  there  is  so  little  space 
tliat  they  are  comiielled  t(»  warp  in  and  out  by  buoys  placed  at  the  entiance. 
Point  ('yi)ress.  the  iu)rth  point  of  the  bay,  is  low,  and  cov<'red  with  <'ypress  to  the 
Avater,  and  is  the  lirst  wooded  i)oint  met  with  in  coming  ftdui  the  southward.  Tlu^ 
upi>er  biiinches  of  the  trees  are  spread  out  1\\  the  iutluence  of  the  strouf,^  prevail- 
ing winds,  and  |)resent  a  llat  or  undtrella-like  aiti)earauce. 

The  Mission  del  Carmelo  is  situated  but  a  short  distam-e  from  tbe  shores  of 
the  l)ay,  and  can  be  seen  in  certain  directions  from  the  water.  Alter  the  al':)lish- 
ment  of  the  Society  of  Jesus  in  Lower  California,  by  the  I'^uiiH-ror  Charles  111  of 
Si)ain,  with  the  tran.sfi'r  of  the  administration  of  the  ndssious  to  the  Dominican 
monks,  and  of  the  ))roperty  to  the  I'^ranciscau  <u'(l' r,  the  Visitiuloi-  Don  .losef  de 
Galves,  of  ihe  latter  (uder.  in  .Iidy,  l7(iS,  visited  San  Diejjo  and  Monterey,  foi'  the 
purpose  of  otalilishinj;'  missions.  On  the  .'{d  of  Jii'.v,  1770.  he  founded  that  of 
San  Carlos  d(  ^lonterey,  now  usually  (.«'Jled  the  Carnu'l  ^Mission. 

The  naiue  IJio  Carmel  was  ajiplie  I  t(t  the  lauall  stream  ;^'niptyin<r  into  Carmel 
JJay,  by  Viseaino,  in  Deeendter  KittL*. 

From  Point  Cypress  to  Point  Pinos  the  <;enerai  direction  of  the  shore  is  north 
three  quarters  east,  aiul  the  distam-e  four  miles. 

POINT   PINOS. 

This  ca]»e  makes  out  as  a  low  roundiufj  point,  brinninj;  the  pines,  with  which 
it  is  covered,  within  u  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  shore,  oil"  which  the  rocks  make  out 
a  quarter  of  a  nule,  and  the  line  of  three  fathoms  nearly  half  a  mile,  when  th(i 
depth  suddenly  increases  to  ten  (»r  lifteen  fathoms,  and  at  a  mile  reaches  forty  or 


I 


4G  COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIKOUXIA. 

forty  (Ivc  fiithonis.  The  tli.'fc  fiitlioiii  line  lollows  tin*  slmro  witliiii  ii  lliiid  or  liiilf 
a  iiiih;  inti»  Montcroy,  wliilst  outsidci  of  that  line  tlic  dt'iifh  iiicronsfs  as  suddenly 
as  otT  tilt'  i»oiiit.  Vessels  should  always  give  I'oiiit  I'iiios  a  }jood  berth,  as  a  very 
hea\y  swell  almost  iiivariahly  sets  upon  it.  This  ])oint  is  the  iiortheiii  tenniiia- 
tioii  of  the  loiiji  and  t-levated  ranj^e  called  Siena  de  Santa  Liieia, extending  soutli- 
waid  a.id  lorniing  the  bold  rocky  coast  line  to  Sun  Luis  Obisi»o. 

I'OINT   VINO.S  MGUT-lIorSK. 

This  is  a  secondary  sea-coast  light,  situated  upon  the  northwestern  |)art  of 

Point  IMnos,  at  the  lace  of  the  growth  of  piiu-s.     The  building  is  a  gniy  gianito 

dwelling,  one  story  in  height,  surniounte<l  by  a  tower  and  lantern,  which  is  thirty- 
five  feet  above  the  ground.     The  illuminating  apparatus  is  of  the   third  older  of 

T''i'esnel,  and  shows  a  find  liijht  of  the  natural  atlin;  from  sunset  to  -iiuirise.  It 
illumimites  about  four-lifths  of  the  hori/on.  and  is  elevated  niiu'ty  one  feet  above 
the  le\el  of  the  sea.  During  ordinary  clearness  of  the  atmosphere  it  can  be  seen 
from  an  eleviition  of — 

10  feet  at  the  distance  of  14.r»  miles. 

L'O  feet  at  the  distance  of  KJ.O  miles. 

.'50  feet  at  the  distance  of  17.1  miles. 

Its  geographical  position,  as  determined  by  the  triangulatioii  of  the  C  iist  Sur- 
vey, is : 

Latitude .'J(i  .'57  ."il.S  north. 

Longitude 121  oo  (»()     west. 

Or,  in  time " S  07   10.0 

The  inMmary  astrononncal  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  is  about  half  a  mile 
eastward  of  the  liglit,  and  lias  the  following  geographical  position  : 

Latitude ;iO  .'57  .'lO..!  north. 

Longitude 121  54  2.5     west. 

Or.  in  time 8  07  .'{7.7 

^lagiietie  variation,  14°  58'.3  east,  in  February  1851,  witli  a  yearly  increase 
of  1'. 

A  to]iograi>hieal  sketch  of  Point  Piiios  is  given  in  the  annual  report  of  the 
Coast  Survej'  for  1851. 

The  general  coast  chart  from  Point  Pinos  to  P)odega  Head  gives  all  the  topo- 
graphical and  liydrograi)hical  characteristics  of  the  coast.  It  was  published  by 
the  Coast  Survey  in  18G2. 

IJAY   OF  MONTERFA'. 

Point  Pinos  forms  the  southwest  jioint  «»f  this  1)ay,  and  Piinta  de  la  Santa 
Cruz  (forming  the  western  shore  of  the  anchorage  of  Santa  Cruz)  the  northwest 


COAST  I'lLOT  or  (ALIFOKNIA.  47 

point.  A  lino  Joiiiiiif;  those  two  ijoints  nins  north  27°  west,  iiiiictcon  nnd  throc- 
fi;;litli.s  miles,  inul  the  ^ficiitt'st  width  of  tlii'  hiiy,  near  tlic  mouth  of  the  SaliiiaH 
Iiiv«>i',  is  ]iinc  sintl  tlirct-  *'i;.'htlis  mih's. 

From  Toiiit  I'inos  to  tlic  aiichornjic  oiV  tlic  town  of  Monterey  tiie  eonrsc  is 
cast  by  Hontii  half  sontli,  and  the  distance  tiiiee  mih-s.  The  shore  towards  i\w. 
town  is  rny;;('d,  ''omposod  of  granite,  and  covered  with  a  heavy  gr()wth  of  lir;  hut 
to  the  eastward  of  the  town  is  a  h)n};,  san;ly  heaeh,  haeked  by  sand  »bines  of 
sligiit  elevation.  For  a  distance  of  ten  miles  iilong  this  beach  the  line  of  tiiree 
fathoiiis  lii's  at  a  distance  of  one  hunched  and  tilty  yards  olVsiiore,  the  water  deci)- 
euin;;'  rapdly  beyontl  that,  and  the  bottom  almost  everywheie  hard. 

Vessels  .oming  fnnn  the  northward,  bound  to  Montt'rey,  follow  the  coast  from 
Poiid  Ano  Nuevu  to  I'oint  Santa  Cruz,  then  run  well  into  tlie  bay,  but  not  too  far, 
for  fear  of  losing  the  wind,  and  to  avoid  the  set  of  the  heavy  swell  rolling  towards 
the  beach.  Ticaving  l*oint  Santa  Cruz  and  Ivcejdng  on  a  southeast  by  east  cour.se 
about  lifteen  miles  will  bring  ves.sels  int(t  twenty  live  fathoms,  aiul  nearly  two 
miles  from  the  beach;  thence  a  south  course  for  eight  ndles  will  bring  them  to  the 
anchorage  in  ten  fathoms,  and  half  a  ndle  from  the  landing.  Tlie.se  precautions 
are  nece.s.sary,  because  Point  I'inos,  with  the  wliole  bay,  is  frequently  enveloped  in 
a  den.se  fog.  Very  often  the  coasting  steamers  have  to  run  for  the  beach,  and 
then  be  guided  by  the  rote  to  the  anchorage.  La  Terou-se  says  he  heard  the  rote 
when  one  league  oHthe  .shore. 

A  direct  course  from  i'oint  Afio  Xuevo  to  the  anchorage  is  .southeast  '"df 
cast,  and  the  distance  thirty-six  and  a  half  nnles.  From  I'oint  I'inos  to  Point 
Ano  Nuevo  the  bearing  is  north  47°  we.st,  ami  the  distance  thirty-four  ndles. 

15y  ancluning  well  in  at  the  western  side  of  the  anchorage  ves.sels  will 
avoid  iiuu'h  of  the  swell  that  comes  in  with  the  heavy  ncnthwest  wind.s,  but  never 
sullicient  to  make  any  berth  there  dangerous.  In  heavy  .southerly  weather  I'oint 
I'inos  breaks  the  swi'U,  but  the  wind  draws  very  strong  over  the  anchorage.  The 
water  .shoals  from  fifteen  to  three  fathoms  in  a  distance  of  three  hundred  yards, 
and  the  lead  should  be  u.sed  to  avoid  running  in  too  far. 

AVhen  the  California  mail  steam.ships  stopped  at  Moiderey  they  frecpu-ntly 
ran  outside  of  I'oint  I'inos,  or  in  very  dangenuis  proximity  to  it.  This  led  to  their 
firing  a  gun  when  approaching  the  harbor  during  foggy  or  dark  weather,  and  upon 
the  report  being  heard  at  the  f(Ut  a  gnu  was  fired  in  au.swer,  and  the  exchange 
kept  up  nntil  the  steamer  was  safe  at  her  anchorage.  We  were  encainjM'd  at 
I'oint  Pinos  when  the  steamship  Carolina  was  brought  in  by  this  means,  after  she 
had  got  nearly  as  far  down  as  Oarmel  Bay. 

The  approximate  geographical  position  of  the  end  of  the  wharf,  abreast  of  the 
custom-house  at  ^Monterey,  is: 

O  '         " 

Latitude 30  ;?(>  1 1  north. 

Longitude 121  5L'  L'7  we.st. 

h.  m.     s. 

Or,  m  time 8  07  L'O.H 


I  ■! 


48 


COAST  riLOT  OF  CALTFOEls^IA, 


Thhs. — The  corroctod  ostiiblishinciit,  or  moan  iiitorviil  tu"t\vo(Mi  tlio  time  r)f  tho 
moon's  trjuisit  iiiid  the  time  of  liijili  Wiitcr,  is  10//.  'l'2i)i.  The  iiiciiii  rise  iind  fiill 
of  tides  is  .'5.-t  feet ;  of  spriiij;-  tides,  4..'!  feet  ;  ;ind  of  iieii;;  rides  L'.."i  feet.  Tlie  mean 
dnratioii  ■■a'  the  Hood  is  (»//.  'Mm.;  of  tlie  el»l»,  Hit.  'Jin,,  and  of  tiie  st.ind,  ()/(.  3.">/h, 
The  av<'iaji('  difference  between  tlu'  corrected  establishment  of  tlie  a.  lii.  and  p.  m. 
tich'S  of  the  same  day  is  l/(.  44m.  forhi^^Ii  water,  and  l/(.  'Jiii.  for  k>w  water.  The 
differeiu'cs,  when  the  moon's  (h-clination  is  {greatest,  are  2/'  iOiii.  ind  \li.  liSw., 
respectively.  The  average  dilference  in  lieij^ht  of  these  two  tides  is  h\  feet  for  the 
hij;h  waters,  and  2.4  feet  for  the  low  waters,  "When  the  nnwin's  (h  clination  is 
greatest  these  ditferences  arc  li.l*  feet  ami  :>.7  feet,  resitcctively.  The  averaf^e  dif- 
ference of  the  hijiher  h-  ',h  and  lower  low  waters  of  the  same  day  is  .")..''»  t'ect,  and 
wlien  the  n\oon's  de(!lination  is  .greatest,  (»..'5  feet.  The  liij;lier  high  ti(h'  in  the  twen- 
ty-four hours  occurs  alMiut  !>//.  'Mini,  after  the  moon's  ni>i)er  transit,  (soulliin,u',)  ^vllen 
the  moon's  declination  is  north,  and  ahont  '2li.  ~>Oiii.  before,  when  south.  The 
lower  of  tl'.c  low  waters  occurs  ab  lut  se\(Mi  hours  aftei'  the  liiglier  hii;li  tide.  The 
greatest  observeil  dill'erence  Itctween  the  low  waters  ef  one  ih\y  was  4..'{  feet,  and 
the  greatest  diU'erencc  between  tlie  higlier  high  and  Utwer  low  wateis  of  one  day 
was  7.\)  feet. 

To  find  the  times  of  high  ami  low  wateis,  first  coi)!i>ute  the  tinu'.'-.  for  San 
Francisco,  and  from  the  numbers  thus  obtained  sid>tract  1//.  44>h.  for  Monterey. 

The  town  of  Monterey  ))rescnts  a  veiy  pretty  apjiearance  as  seen  IVom  the 
water.  lmm«'diately  behind  it  tb"  country  rises  in  plateaus,  diversified  li\  hill 
and  valley,  and  beautifully  dottetl  by  oak  groves.  It  was  the  capital  of  (.'alifornia 
while  under  fhe  rule  of  ^Mexico,  and  foi'  soi.,,'  years  after  it  became  a  State. 

A  l*oi,.iguese  com|)any  has  been  I'ornu'd  here  to  engage  in  the  whale  li.->iieiy, 
and  even  with  inad«'(|uate  means  if  succeeded  in  ol>taiiiing  over  sixteen  thousand 
gallons  of  oil  (which  sold  lor  twelve  thousand  dollars)  iti  less  than  a  yeai'.  Other 
companies  have  since  been  formed  ;  their  cruising  ground  is  the  bay  of  Mdiiterey, 
and  a  sluM't  distance  to  sea.  ( >|)eiati(ius  are  caiiied  on  by  means  of  bdats  fur- 
nished with  bondt  lances  during  the  season,  which  usually  last  nine  months — from 
i\Iar«'h  to  Xovember. 

Uegular  comuuuiication  is  kept  u|)  with  all  i)arts  (»f  the  coast  by  ste.mu'rs  and 
numerous  sailing  vessels.  Stages  cosumunieate  with  Sant;'.  Cruz  ami  all  the  towns 
to  San  Francisco. 

Following  the  shore  from  the  town  of  ^louterey,  northward,  it  ]iresents  a  uni- 
form sand  beach  running  m-arly  north,  backed  by  low,  dreary  sand  dunes,  pro- 
diicing  sparsely  fhe  coarsest  grasses  and  bushes,  and  entirely  destitute  of  fresh 
Avater.  This  waste  extends  to  the  Salinas  Uivei,  of  which  we  I'cacli  the  great  beml 
at  about  nine  and  half  miles  IVom  M(Mit<Tey,  and  only  one  hundicd  yaid.^  from 
the  beach.  From  Toiid  I'inos  it  bcai's  nortiieasf  by  iiorlli  (|uii!ier  norlli.  dis- 
tant eight  and  a  half  miles.  From  this  bend  th;'  river  follows  ilie  Inie  (•!  the 
beach,  Just  inside  of  the  low  sand  dunes,  for  a  distance  of  four  and  a  halt'  uuk-s, 
and  then  disembogues.    From  Point  l'im»s  it  bears  n(M'th  by  east  five-eighths  east, 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFOKXIA. 


4i) 


and  is  distnnt  twelve  and  three-quarters  mile.,.  This  river  hiis  been  desijtnated  by 
a  variety  of  names — jm  l>neM;iventura,  Monterey,  and  Siilinas;  but  it  is  now  jieii- 
erally  kii()\ni  by  the  last  name.  It  rises  in  the  iatitinle  oi"  the  IMedrns  Blaneas; 
one  branch  about  twenty  and  tlic  otlu'r  tiiirty-tlii'ee  miles  from  tiic  coast.  Tiiese 
branehes  meet  at  Sau  Mij,niel,  and  tlience  the  stream  I'uns  jtarallei  witii  the  «'oast 
and  behind  tlK>  Sierra  Santa  Lueia.  From  its  mouth,  wiiieh  is  only  sixty  yards 
wide  at  lov  water,  to  the  entrance  to  the  Rio  del  I'(ij(tro,  or  San  Antonio,  tlie  dis- 
tance is  two  it:;'1  a  quarter  miles;  the  shore  trendinj;  to  tlie  north-northwest. 
The  entran(;e  of  that  river  bears  north  by  east,  fourteen  miles  from  Point  I'inos. 

From  lu're  tlie  coast  runs  nortliwest  nearly  straij;iit  to  .Vtos  Creelc,  a  distance 
of  sevesi  or  ei^;ht  miles,  and  about  six  miles  east  liy  north  of  Santa  Cruz,  with  tiie 
shor<'  rocky  and  abrupt. 

Nort.  of  the  Salinas  liiver  commence  rich  meadow  and  table  hinds,  alVordinjj; 
to  tlie  settler  spots  unsur])asscd  fi>r  productiveness,  even  in  tile  proiitic  State  of 
(.'aliloinia. 

A  remarkable  submarine  vaih'y,  similar  to  tliat  oiV  Point  Ilueiicmc,  has  been 
discovered,  an.',  to  some  extent  tiai'cd  (uit  in  tliis  hay  b\  Lieutenant  Commanding 
(now  Commodore)  .lames  Aldeii,  I'uited  States  navy.  The  head  of  tliis  valley  is 
live-ei;;iiths  of  a  mile  .south  of  the  mouth  of  the  Salinas  liiver,  and  the  twenty- 
fathom  li'ie  is  only  a  (juarter  of  a  mih'  otl'  the  beach,  the  depth  inereasing  to  titty 
fathoii'.s,  in  the  next  quarter  of  a  mile.  At  this  di.stanee  from  shore  tlu'  twenty- 
fatluun  lines  are  three-eighths  of  a  mile  apart.  Tlie  general  ilirectioii  of  the  valley 
for  tlie  next  two  miles  is  southwest  half  west,  wliere  we  liiid  a  depth  of  one 
liuiubed  and  seventeen  t'nthoms,  and  the  lilty-fatlioiu  lines  lie  about  live-eighths 
of  a  mile  apart  ;  tlience  the  valley  runs  about  west,  reaehing  a  depth  of  one  hun- 
dred and  seventy  fathoms  in  a  mile,  and  two  hundred  unil  forty  fathoms  in  three 
and  a  (piarter  miles,  with  forty-two  fathoms,  less  than  a  mile  to  tlie  north  of  this. 
Til'.'  soundings  are  not  numerous  enough  to  trace  its  outlines  in  (h'ei»  water  ;  hut 
thM  indications  are  that,  for  ten  miles  of  its  length,  it  runs  south  iHP  west,  with  no 
bottom  at  three  hundred  an<l  lifteeii  fathoms.  The  only  available  boat  landing 
upon  the  beach  of  the  bay  shores  is  at  the  head  of  this  submarine  valley.  There 
are  no  iiidi*  atioiis  on  the  land  e"  this  peculiar  formatiiui,  except  that  at  its  head 
the  bay  very  gradually  reaches  its  greatest  easting. 

An  extensive  valley  calh'd  the  Salinas  Plains,  through  which  conies  the  Salinas 
Kiver,  extends  inland  from  the  eastern  jiart  of  ..Monterey  Bay,  nearly  to  the  ^Mission 
of  San  Miguel,  situated  mi  the  plateau  of  the  Sau  Bruno  ^Mountains.  This  valley 
is  said  to  be  nearly  ninety  miles  in  length,  and  in  breadtii  varying  from  two  to  ten. 
It  eoiitaius  some  two  hundred  tlnuisand  acres  of  good  agricultural  lands,  and  the 
remaiiuhu'  alVords  exeellent  iiasliirage  for  horned  stock,  luu'.ses,  and  sheep. 

The  bay  of  Monterey  was  discovered  by  Cabiillo  in  \r>V2.  and  called  the  Pay 
of  Pines.  It  was  surveyed  by  Sebastian  Vi/.caino  in  ItJOi',  and  the  name  wa.s 
changed  to  I'uerlo  de  Moiile-rey,  in  honor  of  the  Spanish  viceroy  of  Mexico,  Don 
Caspar  de  Ziuiiga,  Count  de  Monte  rey,  who  disiiatehed  the  expedition. 


50 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFOTimA. 


It  Avas  used  by  the  SpanisU  galleons  on  tlieir  return  from  Manilla  to 
Mexi<!0. 

A  preliaiinary  chart  of  ifonterey  Bay  was  ]niblislieil  by  the  Coast  Survey  in 
1857. 

The  line  of  equal  mngnriio  variation  of  la"^  oast  cuts  the  ».'oast  line  of  ^Monterey 
I-  ly  in  latitude  'M'P  45'  north,  about  half-way  between  the  great  bend  and  mouth  of 
t1  e  Salinas  Kiver,  and  erosses  the  meridian  of  l-ijo  0'  west,  in  latitude  30°  30'  north. 
1  ':is  line  moves  annually  southward  about  a  mile  and  a  hal£ 

SANTA  CRUZ  IIAUBOE. 


'!      !■ 


This  harbor  or  anehorafte  is  at  the  northwest  part  of  the  bay  of  ^lonterey,  and 
is  of  very  limited  extent.  It  is  proteeted  from  all  the  winds  from  the  northward, 
but  exposed  to  tin?  full  sweep  of  southerly  {jales,  and  many  (-oasters  have  boen 
driven  ashore  during  the  winter  season.  It  is  abimt  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in 
depth  uorllnvard,  l)y  one  and  half  niih's  east  and  west. 

Vessels  eominj^'  from  the  northward,  after  leaviiifjf  Point  Afio  Xuevo,  follow  the 
coast-line  on  a  general  course  east-southeast  for  about  eighteen  miles.  The  shore 
for  this  distance  is  abrupt,  jagged,  and  moderately  elevated,  with  a  range  of  high 
hills,  or  mountains  whose  summits  in  summer  are  almost  continually  enveloped  in 
fog.  Skirting  the  shore  at  a  distance  of  half  a  mile  a  depth  of  six  to  ten  fatlumis 
can  be  carried,  and  upon  making  Point  Santa  Cruz,  the  top  of  which  is  moderately 
level  for  sonu'  distance  back,  four  fathoms  are  obtained  within  a  (piarter  of  a  mile 
of  it;  round  up  and  run  along  in  five  fathoms  until  abreast  of  the  beach,  where 
good  anchorage  will  be  found  half  a  mile  from  shore. 

Vessels  from  the  south  in  summer  keep  well  into  Monterey  Bay,  a)  escape  the 
full  force  of  the  northwesters  and  the  heavy  head  sea. 

During  tlie  winter  months  anchor  well  out,  so  as  to  be  able  to  clear  the  shore 
westward  of  Point  Santa  Cruz  in  case  a  southeaster  springs  n[). 

Landing  on  tlu!  beach  is  generally  disagreeable,  as  it  extends  out  sonn-  dis- 
tance, but  boats  usually  land  at  the  embarcadero,  at  the  foot  ol'  the  btulf  in  tlie 
nortliwest  part  of  the  harbor. 

The  beach  is  over  half  a  mile  in  length,  ami  between  its  eastern  extremity  and 
the  blullF  point  empties  the  San  Lorenzo  Ifiver,  a  small  stream  running  |i»ast  the 
town  and  mission,  which  is  situated  a  mile  inland. 

A  chart  of  the  harbor  and  vicinity  was  published  in  tlie  Coast  Survey  rei)ort 
for  1854. 

The  country  about  Santa  Cruz  is  exceedingly  productive,  and  now  thickly 
settled.     A  steamer  runs  regularly  in  the  trade  between  this  place  and  San  Fran- 
cisco, and  numerous  coasters  liud  abundant  freight  from  here  and  the  I'ajarocoun 
try  to  San  Fianeiseo. 

Kegular  stage  conununicatiou  is  uuiintained  with  San  Francisco  and  Mon- 
terey. 


m 


■I    i: 
I    I 


3 


s 


o 

3 


P- 


' 


COAST  riLOT  OF  CALIFORNIA.  51 

Tlio  socondary  fistronoinical  station  of  tho  Coast  Survey  was  at  the  top  of  tho 
bliiir  at  tlic\'iul)ai'ca(U'X'().     Its  geojirapliical  i)ositi()ii  is: 

LiititiKie ■?()  ni  20.0  north. 

Longitude 12li  (10  10      west. 

h.  VI.     «. 

Or,  ill  time 8  08  00.7. 

All  ('xaiiiiiiatii)ii  for  the  location  of  a  harhor  lUiht  has  been  nnuU',  and  tlie  site 
recommended  to  tlie  Light-liouse  Board  by  the  Superintendent  of  the  Coast  Survey. 

The  liijih  mountain,  north  2.5°  oast,  twelve  and  a  half  miles  from  Santa  Cruz, 
is  named  .Mount  Haclie,  and  attains  an  elevation  of  .'{,701  feet. 

Ta/t'.s'. — The  correeted  cstablisliiiR'nt,  or  mean  interval  between  the  time  of  the 
moon's  transit  and  tlu^  time  of  liij;h  water,  is  10//.  IS//;.  The  nii-an  rise  and  fall 
of  tides  is  1.1  feet ;  of  sprinj^'  tides,  a.o  feet ;  and  of  neap  tides,  2.9  feet.  The  mean 
duiation  of  the  tiood  is  (>//.  47«(. ;  of  the  ebb,  .'i/t.  45Ht. ;  and  of  the  stand,  0//.  20w. 
The  average  ditlerenee  between  the  corrected  establishment  of  the  a.  m.  and  p.  in. 
tiih's  (»f  the  same  day  is  1/;.  44w.  for  hij^li  water,  aud  1/t.  2»i.  for  low  water.  The 
ditVcreiices,  when  the  moon's  declination  is  {ifreatest,  are  2/(,.  40»j.  and  1//.  28w., 
respectively.  The  averaj;e  ditlerenee  in  height  of  these  two  tides  is  1.4  foot 
for  the  high  waters,  and  2.4  feet  for  the  low  waters.  When  the  moon's  declination 
is  greatest  the.se  dilfereiices  are  2.2  feet  and  .'{.7  feet,  respectively.  The  average 
dilfereuce  of  the  higher  high  aud  lower  low  waters  of  the  same  day  is  (i.O  feet,  aud 
when  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest,  7.0  feet.  Tiie  higher  high  tide  in  the 
twenty-four  hours  occurs  about  0/i.  .Vim.  after  the  luoou's  upi»er  transit,  (southing,) 
when  the  mooirs  decliiialiou  is  iiortli,  and  about  2//.  ~i\in.  before,  when  S(Uith.  The 
knver  of  the  low  waters  occurs  about  7//.  after  the  higher  high  tide. 

It  was  oft"  Point  Santa  Cruz  that  Cabiillo  is  supposed  to  have  anchored  on  tho 
17th  of  2s'oveuiber  ir>42,  upon  his  return  from  the  northward. 


POINT  ANO  NUKVO. 

From  Point  Santa  Cruz  to  Point  Ano  Xuevo  the  distance  is  eigliteen  miles,  and 
the  general  direction  west  by  north  threetpiarters  north,  at  first  curving  to  the 
southwestward  of  that  ccmrse,  and  then  to  the  northward,  until  witliin  tliree  miles 
of  the  J'ock  oft  Point  AFio  Nnevo,  when  the  sh(U'<>  curves  well  to  westward,  (for  the 
last  mile  to  the  southwest,)  forming  an  anchorage  protected  somewhat  against  the 
heavy  swell  from  the  northwest,  and  having  a  depth  of  live  fathoms  within  less 
than  half  a  mile  of  the  sluire,  and  from  ten  to  lifteen  fathoms  at  the  distance  of  ii 
mile. 

At  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  point  lies  a  black,  jagged  islet,  consisting  of  a 
sloi)iiig  ledg(>  of  rocks  covered  with  a  stratum  of  yellow  clay  about  four  feet  thick, 
and  this  again  covi'ii'd  with  a  mound  of  sand  about  thirty  feet  high.  Upon  this  a 
light  house  is  to  be  built.  The  point  itself  is  composed  of  rolling  hills  of  shifting 
sand,  varying  from  twenty  to  «»ne  hundred  \W\  ill  height,  while  behind  them  rises 


I  mi: 


52 


COAST  riLOT  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


IV      i!  ■ 


the  Santa  ('ruz  raiifjo  of  mountains.    The  coast  tiail,  wiiidi  follows  tho  bcaoli  from 
tlic  sdiitlnvaiil,  licit'  stiiUrs  ui»  tlic  hills  behind  tho  sand  dunes. 

Steamers  coiiiinj;  upon  the  eoast  IVoni  the  southward  in  liiiek  weather  always 
ondeavor  to  make  the  land  near  I'oint  Ano  Xuevo,  and  then  follow  the  eoast  to  tho 
San  Kranciseo  bar.  On  aoeount  of  its  iiiii»ortanee  hi  this  respeet  a  light-house  was 
recommended  by  the  Superintendent  o^'Hie  Coast  Survey, 

The  otf-shore  souiidiiij;s  from  ^Monte'vy  13ay  to  the  Farallones  show  that  the 
dei)th  of  one  hundred  fathoms  t-radiuil.y  leaves  the  coast.  South  of  Santa  Cruz 
the  depth  of  one  hundred  fathoms  is  found  between  eight  ami  nine  miles  from  the 
shore,  and  continues  at  this  distance  until  nearly  up  with  Point  Afio  Nuevo,  where 
it  sud(h'nly  increases  to  fourteen  miles  distant  and  thence  runs  northwest  on  a  Vuw 
lying  live  nules  outside  of  the  Farallones,  The  <leepest  sounding  was  obtained 
only  eight  miles  from  shore  and  twelve  miles  southwest  three-eighths  west  from 
Point  Santa  Cruz,  and  lifteen  miles  southeast  by  south  one  eighth  south  from 
Pont  Afio  Nuevo.  The  dejjth  was  three  hundreil  and  tliirty-live  fathoms  over 
a  bottom  of  coarse  black  sand  and  mud,  and  only  one  mile  outside  the  one-hun- 
dred-fathom line. 

Black  ^Mountain,  in  latitude  .'57°  19',  and  longitude  121'°  S',  attains  an  eleva- 
tion of  2,S0'J  feet,  and  lies  twenty  miles  north  by  east  half  east  from  Point  Afio 
Nuevo, 

A  map  of  the  anchorage  was  published  by  tjie  Coast  Survey  in  1854, 

]\rany  of  the  coasting  steamers  report  their  compasses  alVected  when  close  in 
with  the  coast  between  Point  Santa  Cruz  and  Point  Ano  Xnevo.  Although  the 
vessel  may  be  princi})ally  atfected  in  this  locality  by  undetermined  ocean  currents, 
influenced  by  the  great  sulunarine  valley  of  Monterey  I>ay,  yet,  the  report  of  Dr. 
J.  B.  Trask  is  that  an  extensive  bed  of  magnetic  iron  occurs  in  this  section,  run- 
ning down  to  the  coast,  where  it  crops  out  and  exhibits  a  depth  of  several  feet. 

From  Point  Ano  Nuevo  tlu^  coast  has  a  general  direction  mu'thwest  for  nine 
miles  to  Point  Bolsa,  along  a  very  rocky  and  bold  shore  with  lifteen  fathoms  at  a 
distance  of  half  a  mih^  This  is  the  Cai)e  Tonrpiin  of  Tebeidcoff  and  others.  At 
the  distance  of  tive  miles  from  Afio  Nuevo  is  I'igeou  I'oint,  named  from  the  wreck 
of  the  cli|)i»cr  shij*  Wild  Pigeon. 

The  high  nu)untain  lying  square  in  from  Point  Bolsa  is  Black  Mountaiti,  dis- 
tant thirteen  and  one-half  miles,  and  bearing  north  5;?°  east.  Two  miles  north  of 
La  Bolsa  empties  the  Piscador,  a  small  stream  running  through  a  valley  of  incon- 
siderable extent.  For  tlu^  foregoing  twelve  miles  the  general  formation  of  the 
immediate  seaboard  is  that  of  a  table-land  of  three  terraces,  the  lowest  gradually 
sloping  from  the  base  of  the  second  to  the  coast,  which  is  exceedingly  rocky  and 
forbidding;  the  underlying  stratum  is  sandstone. 

From  Pohit  Ano  Nuevo  to  I'illar  Point,  or  Punta  de  Corral  Tierra,  forming 
the  south  and  western  ])oint  of  Ilalf-nmon  Bay,  the  general  direction  is  northwest 
by  north,  and  the  distance  twenty-four  and  a  half  miles.  Three  and  a  third  miles 
above  the  Piscadtu'  opens  the  San  (.rregorio,  another  small  stream,  and  two  and 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFOKXIA. 


m 


ono-tliird  inilos  still  further  opens  the  Tiiiiitas.  The  seaboard  between  the  valley 
of  the  IMseador  and  that  of  the  San  (Jreyurio  undiT^oes  a  strikin;;-  chanjie  both  in 
the  character  of  its  to])oj;vai)hy  and  its  {•('•'lofiy-  Instead  of  the  tableland,  we 
meet  with  a  si»ur  of  the  Coast  mountains  runninjif  into  the  sea,  ami  havinj>-  an  ele- 
vatiou  of  six  liundred  feet  within  a  mile  of  it.  The  shore-line  and  tlu'  coast  j;'en- 
erally  present  a  very  broken  and  rugged  a[)pearance,  occasioned  by  the  deep 
gulches  cut  throngh  to  the  ocean. 

HALF-MOON  BAY. 

This  anchorage  is  six  miles  south-southeast  from  Point  San  Pedro,  and  eigh- 
teen miles  south  by  east  from  the  Gohh'U  (late.  The  southwestern  ])oint  of  the 
bay  is  formed  by  a  blutf  table-land  about  oiui  hundied  and  sixty  feet  in  height, 
called  the  Corral  de  Tierra,  three  hundred  and  twenty-tive  yards  south  of  which 
stretch  a  number  of  black  rocks,  which  show  as  one  when  seen  coming  nj)  the 
coast,  but  as  three  or  four  when  approached  from  the  northwest.  The  largest  is 
nearly  as  high  as  the  bluff,  and  locally  known  as  Sail  Rock,  or  Pillar  Itock.  The 
jjoint  is  known  as  Pillar  Point,  and  from  its  southeastern  extremity  rocky  and 
foul  bottom,  marked  by  kelp,  extends  southeast  one-third  east,  seven-eighths  of  a 
mile,  dropping  suddeidy  from  fourteen  feet  to  live  fathoms.  This  is  the  inner 
reef,  and  makes  the  bay  available  as  a  summer  aiu'horage.  One  mile  and  three- 
quarters  southeast  from  the  saiiH>  part  of  the  point,  a  narrow  ledge  of  rocky  bot- 
tom, one-third  of  a  mile  long,  ami  marked  by  kelj),  stretches  in  the  sanu'  general 
direction.  The  passage  between  this  outer  and  the  inner  reef  is  three-([uarters  of 
a  mile  witle,  with  rocky  ami  uneven  bottom,  from  three  and  it  (piarter  to  ten  and 
one-quarter  fathoms.  These  ledges  lie  i)arallel  with  the  Coast  mountains,  and  with 
the  shoreline  from  which  the  outer  one  is  distant  one  ami  three-eighths  mile. 
From  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  point  the  shore  I'uiis  northwest  by  north  for  a 
(pnirter  of  a  mile;  then  noitheast  for  three-(iuarters  of  a  mile,  curving  to  the  east- 
ward and  southeastward  in  a  long  bend,  for  two  and  a  half  miles  to  the  month  of 
the  Arroyo  de  los  Pillarcitos,  down  which  cories  the  oidy  road  crossing  the  penin- 
sula of  San  Francisco,  between  the  Lagnini  de  ilercedes  and  Santa  Cruz.  The 
highest  part  of  this  road,  which  crosses  a  depression  of  the  peninsula,  is  near  the 
Coast  Survey  station  "Itidge,"  which  is  one  thousand  and  ninety-three  feet  above 
the  ocean,  and  but  a  few  feet  higher  than  the  road.  Tin;  outer  reef  is  nearly 
abreast  of  the  Pillarcitos,  from  which  the  (!oast  runs  south  four  miles  to  iliramon- 
tes  Point,  which  is  south  -tso  east,  live  miles  from  Pillar  Point;  thence  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Tunitas  the  distance  is  fonr  miles  southeast.  The  greatest  extent 
of  the  bay  may  be  said  to  be  between  Pillar  and  Miramontes  Points,  but  the  part 
near  the  fornuT  only  is  available. 

About  two  and  a  half  miles  along  the  coast,  northwestward  from  Pillar  Point, 
a  dangerous  ledge  lies  ab(mt  one-half  mile  otf  shore.  It  lias  ten  to  fifteen  feet 
upon  it,  and  mu(;h  broken  water  around  it.  Detailed  examinations  might  develop 
less  water.     The  sluu'e  Itehind  it  has  a  low  bluff  from  twenty  to  sixty  feet  high, 


54 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


with  ii  broad,  flat  valley  bohiiul  it,  so  that  vessels,  in  hazy  or  dark  weather,  may 
mistake  their  distance  Iroin  the  shore. 

The  sonndiiifis  between  tlie  roeky  ledges  and  the  shore  arc  qnito  rognlar, 
decreasing  from  nine  lathoms  to  three  fatlioins  at  h'ss  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
from  the  beach,  with  sandy  bottom.  The  jtassage  to  tlu^  anchorage  is  between  tiie 
inner  and  outer  reef,  with  the  high,  bare-topped  mountain  bearing  a  little  north  of 
east,  and  rillar  Point  open  to  the  westward.  This  mountain  is  steep,  with  strag- 
gling redwoods  on  its  Hanks,  and  the  sumuiit  bare.  It  is  locally  known  as  P>ald 
Pate;  but,  on  the  Spanish  grants,  as  Cumbra  de  las  Auras.  When  inside  the 
reefs  beat  up  until  IMllar  Point  bears  about  southwest,  distant  half  a  mile,  and 
anchor  in  four  and  a  half  fathoms,  hard  saml.  With  light  southerly  winds  a 
heavy  swell  sets  in ;  but  upon  the  approach  of  heavy  sontheast  weather  it  is  neces- 
sary to  go  to  sea. 

The  nmss  of  redwoods  cresting  the  mountains  of  the  peninsula  cease  abruptly 
abreast  of  Miramontes,  and  only  stragglers  are  seen  to  the  northward.  They  are 
a  good  mark  frn-  recognizing  this  part  of  the  coast  when  coming  in  from  sea. 

Around  Ualf-moon  Bay  is  a  limited  extent  of  agricultural  country  at  the  sea- 
ward base  of  tho  mountains,  and  small  coasters  carry  the  produce  to  Sau  Fran- 
cisco. 

About  one  mile  along  the  coast  to  the  northwestward  is  a  small  boat  harbor, 
one  hundred  yards  wide,  formed  and  protected  by  outlying  rocrks,  and  having 
three  and  a  half  fathoms  in  it.  In  the  autumn  months  it  is  u.u'd  as  a  wiiiiling 
station.  About  a  thousaiul  barrels  of  humpback  oil  were  obtai.ied  in  the  fall  of 
1803. 

Point  »S\<H  Pedro  lies  northwest  by  north  ic-quarter  nortii,  thirty  miles  from 
Point  Afio  Nuevo,  and  south  by  east  from  Point  Lobos,  at  tlie  entrance  to  the 
Golden  Gate.  It  is  a  black,  bold,  rocky  pronu)ntory,  over  tive  hundred  feet  high, 
having  a  high,  large,  jagged  rock  at  the  northern  part,  and  is  a  prominent  and 
excellent  mark  for  making  the  entrance  to  San  Francisco.  The  priiicijtal  rock  is 
nearly  a  hundred  feet  high.  Its  south  face  is  w  hite,  and  shows  the  line  of  stratitl- 
cntion  plainly.  From  the  west  the  dip  of  the  strata  shows  about  sixty  degrees  to 
the  northward.  It  is  connected  with  the  main  by  some  low  rocks.  Ilalf  a  mile  to 
the  northeast  of  the  point  is  the  valley  of  San  Pedro,  from  which  the  point  takes 
its  nanu\  Southeast  from  Point  San  Pedro  the  hills  rise  rapidly,  and  attain  a 
height  of  one  thcmsaml  nine  hundred  and  eighty  feet  at  Moutara  Mountain,  three 
miles  sontheast  by  east  from  the  point. 

When  Point  San  Pedro  bears  southeast,  five  miles  distant,  with  the  rocks  off 
it  hidden  by  thick  weather,  and  the  top  of  the  ridge  covered  with  fog,  it  may  be 
readily  known  by  a  single  pyramidal  hill  rising  abruptly  and  breaking  the  general 
slope  of  the  mountain  towards  the  southwest.  As  the  fog  lifts,  or  the  point  is 
ai)i)roaclicd,  the  rock  will  be  seen  inside,  or  to  the  eastward  of  this  hill;  and  the 
low  bluft"  towards  Ualf-moon  liay  will  show  outside  of  it. 

From  Point  San  Pedro  the  bar  outside  the  Golden  Gate  i.s  distant  twelve 


may 


1      fi 


COAST  JMLOT  OF  CALIFOIJNIA. 


55 


milcH,  and  from  Toiut  Alio  Nuevo  if  is  forty  tnilcs  upon  a  iiortlnvcst  l>y  north 
course. 

The  ran}j;('  of  mountains  forming  the  northeastern  shore  of  Mdiiterey  |{ay, 
and  exteiiiliii},'  to  Santa  Cruz  and  Point  Afio  Nuevo,  is  railed  Santa  Cruz. 
Thcnee  nortliward  to  tlie  (Jolden  (late,  and  forming  tlie  peninsula  of  Siui  ['"ran- 
eisco,  by  bounding  tlie  bay  ou  the  west,  the  mountains  are  known  as  the  San 
Franeiseo  or  San  Hruno  range. 

The  extent  of  shoreline  from  Point  Concepcion  to  P<iint  Boueta  is  about  two 
hundred  and  eighty-six  miles. 

BAY  OF  SAX  FRANCISCO  AND  APPROACHES.* 

This  bay  atVords  the  tinest  ami  most  eomniodious  harbor  on  tiie  Pacific  eoast 
of  t\w  U^nited  States.  From  its  discovery  it  has  commanded  the  admiration  of 
navigators,  and,  since  the  wonderful  rise  of  California,  has  well  sustained  its  repu- 
tation. Its  geograi)liical  ])osition,  its  size  and  depth  of  water,  its  noble  eidrance 
and  l)old  shores,  the  Sacramento  and  its  tributaries  draining  the  rich  agricultural 
valleys  anil  auriferous  slopes  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  the  magic  city  ui»oii  its  shoics, 
and  the  salubrity  of  its  elinuite,  have  conspired  to  make  it  em[»hafically  the  port 
of  the  Pacific. 

The  (loldeii  Gate  is  the  entrance  to  the  bay,  and  presents  the  character  of  a 
great  cleft  or  fissure  in  the  seacoast  range  of  mountains,  thereby  connecting  the 
bay  of  San  Franciscto  with  the  Pacific  Ocean.  On  approaihiug,  it  is  dillicult  to 
imagine  that  a  deep  channel  lies  ahead,  so  clear  is  the  atmosphere,  and  so  well 
defined  the  Contra  Costa  mountains,  behind  the  bay.  Both  shores  are  bold, 
broken  into  jwints,  and  rocky;  but  the  northern  is  much  the  boUh-r,  rising  almost 
]ierpeudicularly  from  the  water,  attaining  an  elevation  of  about  om;  thousand  feet, 
but  a  shoi't  distance  back,  and  in  seven  miles  rising  to  two  thousjind  six  hundred 
feet.  On  the  south  sith',  between  the  points,  are  stretches  of  low  bea<;h  backed  by 
rising  ground;  tin'  lulls  are  undulating  and  of  moderate  elevation,  increasing  very 
gradually  in  altitude  to  the  southward,  and  reaching  a  height  of  oiu'  thousand 
three  hundred  and  fifteen  feet  ou  the  San  Bruiu>  Mountain,  seven  miles  southeast 
of  Point  Lobos.  The  chart  of  San  Francisco  entrance,  by  the  C(»ast  Survey,  shows 
the  bold  and  characteristic  topography  of  the  vicinity  of  the  Golden  Oate,  while 
the  Coast  Survey  chart,  showing  the  ai)[)roaches  and  entrance  to  San  F'rancisco, 
gives  all  that  can  be  desired  by  the  navigator. 

Inside  the  bar  a  vessel  may  anchor   anywhere,    and   the  depth   of    water 
increases  gradually  to  twenty-live  fathoms  on  the  line  Joining  Points  P.om^ta  and 

*TIie  Kcnoial  count  oliart,  from  Point  Pinos  to  IJoilcf^u  IIi'iul,  ijivcs  all  the  cliaractiiiisrics  of  the 
topojirapliy  and  liyilrojrrapliy  of  tlio  approat'lics  and  bay  of  8an  I'lancisLo.  It  was  pnljlislicd  l)y 
tilt'  (.'oast  .Survey  in  iHUvi. 

Tiicn!  ari^  bclon<;inj;  to  San  Francisco  four  iirst-class  pilot-boats,  and  fifteen  li<'ensed  jiilots. 
Two  boats  aro  always  ciiiisin-,'  outside,  frequently  as  far  as  lifteen  miles  from  Hie  land  in  clear 
weather.  Diirinj,'  a  fog  they  cruisn  noaror  the  bar,  bein;^,  in  that  ucighborhood,  most  likely  to  fall 
in  with  vessels. 


56 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CAlJFOIfXI A. 


Lobos.  Tlic  Heal  IJocks  olV  Loltosbcar  suiitlioast  by  south  one  (|iiartor  soutli,  distant 
two  and  onc-cijfhtli  miles  fntin  fJoiit'ta,  j^iviiij;' ample  widtli  between  the  hea<ls. 
Jnsi»h'  this  line  the  dei>tli  increases  rajiidly  to  sixty-nine  lathoms  in  the  narrowest 
l>art  of  the  entnince,  Ixtweeii  I'ort  Point  on  the  south  and  Linu'  Point  on  the 
north,  where  the  width  is  one  mile,  and  the  bearing  of  the  latter  south  by  east 
tliree  quarters  east  from  the  former.  Thence  the  bay  opens  well  to  the  nortiieast, 
ami  the  soundiiii^s  ^nadually  decrease.  \o  hiihlen  dangers  have  been  discovered 
outside  the  line  between  Lime  Point  and  Fort  Point.  Deep  water  exists  arouuil 
the  3Iile  Kocks  between  Point  Lobos  and  Fort  I'ttint. 

Even  without  artitieial  safe;;uards  ami  pilots,  the  Golden  Gate  would  be  (me 
of  the  very  safest  entrances,  as  i)ructically  tested  by  the  earlier  navi^^ators,  and 
by  the  many  thousand  vessels  tii.it  safely  entered  and  left  it  in  tin;  earlier  years  of 
California's  development.  Yet  we  lind  that  Peechey  (vol.  II,  i»a,L;<'  .'»)  says:  "The 
reef  of  rocks  lies  three  ([uarters  (»f  a  mile  from  Point.  Poneta,  while  sonn-  scattered 
rocks,  with  deep  water  around  them  skirt  in;;'  the  shore  on  our  right,  (upon  entering,) 
marked  that  side  also  as  dangerous,  so  that  the  entrances  may  be  justly  considered 
(hingcrous.''  It  is  dillicult  to  i)roperly  chanwsterize  such  an  erroneous  judgment. 
There  is  no  reef  off  Point  Poueta,  but  the  deepest  channel  is  close  around  it. 
The  -Mile  Itocks  are  above  water  and  have  deep  water  around  them. 

rOINT   UONKTA. 

The  north  head  of  the  entrance  to  Ban  Francisco  Pay  is  formed  by  this  point; 
a  narrow,  precijutous,  rocky  cape,  nearly  three  hundred  feet  high,  and  stretching 
from  the  light-house  about  half  a  nule  to  the  southeast.  Pehind  it  the  mountains 
rise  rapidly  to  an  elevation  of  one  thousand  live  hundred  feet.  During  the  dry 
season  the  de))osit  of  sea  birds  accumulates  in  such  (juantities  on  the  ridge  outside 
of  P>oneta  light  house  as  to  make  the  blulf  show  white,  but  the  first  heavy  rain  car- 
it  oil',  and  then,  thn»nghont  the  rainy  season,  the  point  exhibits  its  natural  color 
and  appearance.  There  are  no  dangers  oil"  the  i)oint,  the  line  of  three  fathoms 
rarely  extending  three  hundred  yard.-:  from  any  ])ortion  of  it.  AVhen  the  clipi»er 
ship  San  Francisco  was  lost  on  tiiis  head,  we  are  told  that  she  first  struck  the  6/«/f 
inside  the  heads,  was  carried  by  the  currents  arouiul  the  ])oint,  and  then  cast 
ashore  on  the  (nitside.  The  reef,  or  line  of  sunken  rocks,  stretching  out  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  upon  sonu^  inai).s,*  has  no  existence,  and  oidy  .serves  to  mislead 
those  unacquainted  with  the  locality.  From  live  to  six  fathoms  can  be  found  on 
every  side  within  a  lifth  of  a  mile. 

roiNT   nONETA  LIGIIT-IIOUSK. 


The  building  is  situated  m-arly  half  a  mile,  from  the  extremity  of  the  point, 
and  consists  of  a  brick  tower  painted  white,  and  surmounted  by  a  lantern  ])ainted 
black.     From  seaward  it  is  seen  projected  against  the  dark,  high  hills  behind  it, 


*"The  reef  of  rorks  lies  tliroe-qiinrterH  of  a  luilo  from  Point  Uoiicta." — IJeecbey,  vol.  II,  p.  3. 

Hi'  iiiiiy  liiivc  iiiisl.ilvcii  tlKMinTciit  lips  lor  lircakorM. 


mt 


1^  ^'1 


I  'i- 


11  ;|:i 


isri,,iiii=isam>jMJi  vjMvxjii.a^jimsummgmmmmmim 


* 


COAST  I'lI.OT  OF  CAMFOILMA. 


57 


iind  in  clrjir  wcjitlici'  it  is  ii  very  pliiiii  (ihjcct.    Tin-  ilitiinitiii 


.scckimI  order  of   tlii'  system  of    l-'resin 


tiiij;-  ;i])iiiir{itus  is  of  the 


lis   first   exliihite<l  Ai>rii  ;U>,  IS.V),  :iii<l 


shows  ii  Ji.ml  [if/lit  of  the  luitnml  color  from  sunset  to  sunrise.  It  iliuiniiiates  live- 
sixtiis  of  tlie  iiorizou,  iiutl  is  eh'vatt-d  iihout  three  Iiundred  aiul  six  l'e<'t  above  tho 
level  of  the  sea.  Duriiif;'  oi'ditiarv  eoiiditions  of  the  atiiios]ihere  it  eaii  be  seen 
from  an  elevation  of — 

10  feet  at  a  dislaiiic  of  l'.!.*!  miles. 

1*0  feet  at  a  distance  of  2.">,  1  miles. 

.'{0  feet  at  a  distanee  of  l'(i.;;  miles. 

.")()  feet  at  a  distance  of  L'S.l  miles. 

Its  ■;-eo«Tai)Iiical  ))ositioii,  as  det<'rmimMl   l)\    the   trianynlation  of  the  ('(.asf 
Sui  vev.  is: 


Latitude 


.57  4!>  o;i.7  north. 


l-onuifude !•_»•> 


;!()  ."iO.;!  west. 


h. 


i  >v,  in  time 


s  10  (»;!..|. 


.Mi 


i;;netic  variation  l.')- 


(  ast,  in 


S.-)-',  with  a  ])resent  yearlv  increase  of  1' 


Fiom  the  li^ht  at  Point  Umx-ta  to  that  on  Foit  Point  the  dist; 


ince  is  two  and 


two-thir<ls  miles,  and  the  liearin';  east 


)ne-(|uartei'  north 


l'()(ilU;i.l,    AT    I'OIN'!'    1!()N];tA. 


The  bell,  with  the  machinery. 


on  the  blnll'Just  in  advance  of  the  liijht-house  tower, 


is  in  a  tVanu'  biiildinj--,  open  in  front,  and  placed 


died  and  seventy  feet  above  the  level  of  tli 


at  an  elevation  of  two  luiii 


c  sea.     The  bell  weij-h 


s  one  fhousaml 


ti\c  humlred  jtonnds,  and  dnrim;'  fo""v  and  thick 


weathei'  is  sliuck  six  bl 


intervals  of  sixteen  seconds  each,  followed 


ows,  at 


The  /(';j  (/nil  iif  I'oint   I, 


l)y  a  i)anse  of  forty-four  seconds 


hdl-lumi*  outside  the  bar,  .March  IS,  1,S,"),S.     It 


onria  has  been  discontinued  siinte  the  pi 


here  the  desii;ii  (»f  tin'  foi;'- 


iciny-  of  tin 
may  not,  however,  be  amiss  to  stati 


nn. 


A  twenty  four  |)onnder  was  placed 


>/(.s7',  ami  durin,y  (bos  or  thick  weather,  either  d; 


U'ai'  the  liijlit 


id  half  hours  of  .San  Francisco  mean  tinu'.     it  enabled 


y  or  ni-;lit,  was  tired  at  the  hour; 


th 


vessels,  belbre  reachin 


e  bar,  to  f;et  the  bearinj-'  of  Point  Poneta,  ami,  bv  the  loudi 


better,  bv  the  soundi 


lU'ss  of  the  repoit,  or 


i«s,  to  (orm  an  estimate  of  their  distanee  fioni  it. 


I'diN'j'   I, Olios. 


Tlie  south  head  of  the  entiance  to  San   Frai 


three  hundred  and 


of    a    si'coihIiii 


Cisco  P)ay  is  Ibrmed  by  this  [toint. 


seventy  feet  hij-h,  upon  which  ('onj;i 


CSS  authoiizeil  the  erection 


!/  sen  riHisf  liifht.     Ppoii  the  rouud-toi.iied  hill    beliiml   the  point 


IS 


erected  a  lainc  fr;nm-  buildin-  Ibr  a  teleniaph  station,  whence  the  <■! 


to  th 


c  city  of  San    Francisco.     The  (list  tele^n'ajihic  ii 


I'aeilie  coast 


ectiic  wires  I'un 


u'ssage  transmitted  on  th 


was  over  these  wire.s.     Southward  of  the  head  (1 


U'  saml  dunes  are  con 


['his  lic'll-lioMt   I 


IllM    lll'fll    fCIMIIN  I'll 


.).S 


COAST   I'lLOT  OI'  CALIFOIJXIA. 


s|»innMis  iiiid  I'jisily  n'cof^iii/.cd  t'ciitiircs  in  iiiti)i(iiicliiii,u  tlic  ciitriiiicc.  Tlic  strnii^i' 
iiortliwcst  suiiiiiii'i'  winds,  (liiiwinu-  in  dvcr  the  iiind,  niisc  tin-  wliitc  siind  tVoni  the 
tlii'cc  miles  (»r  hidiid  hciifli,  iiiid  cjiii yiiii;  it  iidiind  over  tiic  hill-tops,  hiii'v  jiiiiss, 
hnslu's,  iind  scriil)  oaU.  'i'lii-  (|a;intily  nl'  s;iiid  diixcn  in  I'lMni  lliis  liciicli  is  cnor- 
iiKins,  iind  its  iii'cnninlMlion  li;is  ^rcjitly  iiKidilicd  tlic  t<>|iom'M|<liy  of  tlii'  pcninsnlii. 
The  ;:t'nj;riii(liic;d  position  nl'llio  site  sflcclcd  Cor  the  liijlii  house,  ws  dctcnnincd 
h\  tilt'  lri;inL;idiiIion  of  the  ('oust  Snr\r\,  is: 


L;itiln<l(-.  . 
Lonj-itiidc 


.'>7    Hi  ."ill..",  noilli. 
IL'L'   L",>  .lit..-)  west. 


Or,  in  time S     !t  ."iS.d. 

This  i)osilitin   is  thirty  two  Icrt    imrth,  iind  one  thousand  three   linndred  and 
seventeen  I'eet  west  of  the  outer  telej^iaph  station. 


l'(t(i-'llMMIM;i     UN    I'lilNr    l.<i|i(i> 


l-'or   the  iienellt    of  their   I'aiiaiiia    shaniers    in    thieU   and    I 


ouiiA   wcatiii 


r.  th 


I     r 


I'aeilie  Mail  ( 'oinpany  haxc  erected.  ;iji<i  maim  a  in  in  opcrali<ai.  one  of  Dalioll'v  foj;- 
trninpets  upon  the  jiitch  of  i'oint   i-olios.      li  is  phn'cd  o\er  a  small   Inaise  contain 
iii.ii  the  machinery,  eylindei's.  (*v:c..  and  the  mouth  of  the  trumpet  is  alioni  one  linn 
dred  and   tifty-two  feet  above  mean  tide.     This  is  a  trille  too  hi.uh  to  see  under  tin- 
I'oji';    (he  teh'.uraph  ••  loolvout."  aliout   lil'ty  two  feet  lower,  has  thai  .idvaiita^e. 

Two  tint  of  each  lliice  blasts  are  di\i(lcd  to  the  northward  and  westward,  and 
the  othei' to  the  southward  aloii;:  the  coi-^t.  In  ISdS.  in  a  thick  t'o<;.  with  calm 
weather,  we  wei'c  enabled  to  ascertain  t!ie  xcssel's  position  ixilside  the  liar  by  the 
bearin.u  of  the  sound  and  the  depth  of  water. 

( )n  the  L'lst  of  .luly  lS(i7.  by  special  arrangements  with  the  company,  obseiv  a- 
tioiis  were  made  to  deleiniine  the  distance  at  which  tiie  trumpet  could  be  heard. 
Th,'  weather  was  clear,  and  tlic  wind  blowing  strong;  from  the  west  noithwcsi. 
The  last  sound  of  tiie  trumpet  was  heaid  Ju>l  outside  the  bar  at  a  distance  of  si\ 
miles,  witii  I'oint  Lobos  tele^raiih  l>earin,n  east  half  nortlt.  l''iom  experiments 
made  upon  tin-  trum|iet  at  the  station  tiie  time  from  the  lM'^'inninll:  •>!'  one  bhisl  to 
that  of  the  next  was  tbund  to  be  thirty  live  scccaids.  whilst  the  duiatioii  of  the 
blast  was  from  tour  and  a  half  to  hvc  seconds.  'I'lie  blast  is  not  niiilbrm  in 
streiiji'th  :  it  starts  shrill,  falls,  and  cuds  shrill :  but  much  of  its  uiiiformil,\  depends 
upim  the  si/e  of  the  steel  \  ibratia'  and  the  pressure  of  the  air  in  the  cylinder. 

The  tiiimpet  is  located  between  tlieClilV  House  and  Point  Lobos.  It  is  seven 
linndred  and  sexenteen  yards  north  llKV-M-ast  from  Arch  Itock,  and  two  and  one- 
third  miles  south  .">!•"  east  iVtmi  I'.oiieta  li^iht. 

( MV  the  weslern  face  of  roiiit   Lobos  lie  a  niimlierof  black  j'a;.;'.L;ed  rocks  about 
titty    feet    hi,L;li,   but  all    within  the  li\  e  fathom    line,  and   (dose   in   shore.      'I'liey  are 
ealleil  thcvSeal  K'ocks  and  o  le  of  them  shows  a    larj;e  arch   from   iiarliciilar  direc 
tions.       The   outer  one   bears   from     I'oiut    lioiieta   southeast    by  south   oncipiaitei 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


59 


south,  and  is  distiiiit  two  :\m\  ono-oiftlitli  miles.  From  ittlu'  gonornl  troiid  of  tlic^ 
slioro  is  ill  a  lino  towards  Fort  I'oiiit  tor  nearly  a  mile,  to  a  short  jiittiiiji'  hi^di 
point,  oft  whieh  lie  the  ^Mih'  Ivoeks.  From  this  point  the  shore  rnns  well  to  the 
eastward  for  a  mile,  graihndly  treiidiiif''  to  the  north  for  a  mile  and  a  half  to  I'ort 
I'oint.  In  tlie  deepest  part  of  this  bend  is  ii  long  sand  beach  backed  by  small 
hillocks  rising  from  the  general  surface  and  slope  of  the  hills, 

MILE   ROCKS. 

Two  rocks  are  lying  olf  Point  Lobos,  a  short  distance  within  the  limit  of 
the  entrance  of  the  Golden  Gate.  They  are  small,  near  each  other,  and  ha\-e 
a  height  of  lift<'en  feet  above  water,  with  a  good  (h'i>th  all  aronnd  and 
ch»se  to  them  ;  but  the  current  swirls  und  eddies  about  them  in  such  a  mannei'  as 
to  render  a  near  approach  anything  but  agreeable  or  siilV;  with  a  light  wind. 
These  rocks  are  one-third  of  a  mile  to  the  northwest  half  west  of  the  small  jutting 
j)oint  inside  of  Point  Lobos,  and  very  nearly  two  miles  southwest  half  south  from 
Fort  Point.  Vessels  running  in  on  the  line  of  Fort  Point  and  Alcatraz  Island  pass 
half  a  mile  northward  of  the  outer  and  larger  rock.  A  good  range  to  enter  is  to 
bring  Alcatraz  light-house,  to  bear  northeast  by  east  half  easr,  opi'u  well  to  the 
northward  of  Fort  Point  light-house  and  steer  for  it.  This  course  will  take  you 
half  a  mih'  to  tlie  southward  of  Point  Uoneta  and  one-third  of  a  mile  to  the  north- 
ward of  Fort  Point,  and  will  leave  .Mile  Rocks  one  mile  to  the  southward  of  yott. 
The  rocks  bear  almost  southeast  from  Roneta  light,  and  distant  one  and  seven- 
eighths  miles.    They  were  called  "  One-mile  Rocks  "  by  Reechey  in  November  18UG. 

FORT   POINT. 

This  is  on  the  south  side  of  the  (iolden  (Hate,  bearing  northeast  by  north  one- 
quarter  north,  two  and  three-quarters  miles  from  the  Seal  Rocks  oil  Point  Lobos, 
and  from  the  south  end  of  Point  Roneta.  It  was  fovmerly  a  Imld,  narrow,  jutting 
piounmtory  of  hard  serpentine  rock,  one  hundred  am!  seven  feet  above  high  water, 
and  surmoimted  by  a  small  ^Mexican  fortification  called  Fort  Rlanco.  The  view  from 
the  point  was  one  of  the  finest  in  the  harbor;  but  the  whole  headlaml  has  beeu 
cut  down  to  within  a  few  feet  of  high  water,  and  increased  in  area  to  form  a  large 
fortification  mounted  with  guns  of  the  largest  range  and  caliber.  Upon  the  liill- 
si<le  rising  Itehind  it  are  houses  for  the  accommodation  of  the  c<nnmandaut,  olU- 
eers,  s(>ldiers,  and  workmen.  Eastward  of  the  ]ioiut  is  a  long  substantial  wharf, 
Consti'ucted  for  r«-ceiving  stores,  ordnance,  iScc.  Sevei-al  large  vessels  have  been 
lost  <>n  Fort  Point  by  venturing  too  clos«^  during  light  airs  and  strong  iiTegular 
currents. 

FORT  POINT  LIGHT-nOUSE. 


Tlis  is  n  W(MMh'n  iuiildiug,  painted  white,  and  situated  on  the  northwest  bas- 
tion ol  ti'e  fort,  and  rising  about  twenty  feet  above  the  parapet.  The  illuminating 
apparatus  is  of  the  tilth  order  (»f   Kresuel,  and  shows  ii  Ji.ir<l  li(iht<>filnnatur<il 


^'i 


f50  COAST  PIIiOT  OF  CALirOKNIA. 

color  fron  sniisot  to  sunrise.  It  is  oifihty-oi^ht  foot  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and, 
(lininij:  oi'dinary  states  of  tlie  atinosphore,  can  be  seen  from  an  elevation  of  fifteen 
feet  at  a  distaiiee  of  fifteen  niiies.  The  angle  of  visibility  seaward  is  bounded  by 
the  extremity  of  Point  Boneta,  boariii}'-  west  three-quarters  south,  and  Point  Lobos, 
bearing  southwest  by  south  (juarter  south. 

The  geographical  position,  as  determiuecl  by  the  triangulation  of  the  Coast 
Survey,  is: 

Latitude 37  48  31.0  north. 

Longitude 122  27  37.8  west. 

h,      7)1.     8. 

Or,  in  tiuTO 8    9  50.o. 

The  light-house  first  built  upon  the  high  ])oint  was  taken  down  when  the  for- 
tifieatiou  oi)eratious  commenced.  Tlie  light  in  tlie  present  one  was  lirsc  exhibited 
December  lo,  1SG3. 

The  South  Farallon  light  is  visible  from  a  vessel's  deck  when  abreast  of  Fort 
Point. 

FOG-BELL  AT  FORT  rOI>'T. 

The  iron  fj'ame  work  su])porting  the  bell  is  on  the  west  face  of  tlie  west  bas- 
tion of  the  fort  below  the  parapet.  The  machiiu'ry  for  tripiting  the  hamnu'r  of 
the  bell  is  on  the  south  face  of  the  same  bastion.  The  base  of  the  bell  is  forty 
and  a  half  feet  above  the  im'an  level  of  the  sea.  The  bell  weighs  one  thousand 
and  ninety-two  pounds,  and  during  foggy  or  thick  weather  is  struck  by  machin- 
ery, livi'  blows  at  intervals  of  ten  secoiuls,  followed  by  a  pause  of  thirty-four 
seconds. 

Bell-hoat  on  f^nn  Frauciseo  liar, — A  bell-boat  formerly  lay  outside  the  bar; 
but  was  removed  some  y<'ars  ago.  The  English  Admiralty  Chart  No.  2401,  with 
corrections  to  March  1805,  still  retains  the  note. 

SAN  FRANCISCO  RAR. 

The  bar  off  the  entrance  to  the  l)ay  of  San  Francisco  Has  a  depth  of  five 
fathoms  at  the  lowest  tides.  Its  genen«l  form  is  that  of  a  horse-shoe,  commencing 
four  miles  southward  of  Point  Lol»os,  stretching  out  gradually  to  six  miles  when 
abreast  of  it;  and  when  nearly  u])  to  the  parallel  of  Point  1v<>iieta,  running  in 
shore  towards  that  point  and  t'or<n:i:g  the  "  foitr-fathum  bar.k."  fnuii  a  <listance  of 
four  miles  (h)wn  to  one.  The  asoiiurt*  breadth  of  tht-  ba^  wirtiin  the  limits  of  the 
six-fathom  curve  is  about  one  mile.  It  falls  ofll'  «>utside  lo  i*»Ji  fathoms  in  half  a 
mile,  and  deepens  gradually  inside.  Not  loss  than  five  fxrtionis  exist  over  tuc  bar 
when  Point  Uoncta  light  bears  between  uortheasJ  tn  east  half  east,  and  norili  by 
west  one-third  west. 

A  vessel  should  not  inchor  upon  the  l>ar  if  she  can  ixissihh  avoid  i*^ ;  fre- 
quently a  heavy  swell  sets  in  without  wind,  and  if  t!ie  <urreiif  is  running  •strong 
ebb,  it  iillows  little  chance  of  escaping  from  an  uncomforlabie  lierth. 


COAST  riLOT  OF  CALIFORXIA. 


61 


Tho  flood  tide  makes  on  the  bar  about  sixty-one  minutes  earlier  than  at  San 
Francisco. 

It  has  been  given  as  a  rule  for  steamers  approacihiu"-  in  thick  weather,  to  run 
for  the  bar  as  nearly  as  they  can  estimate,  keeping  the  lead  going  until  they 
strike  Ave  fatlioms,  and  run  on  until  the  depth  is  increased,  when  tlie  armed  lead 
should  bring  up  gray  sand  with  red  specks,  and  they  may  conclude  themselves 
witbin  the  bar.  It  has,  however,  been  ascertained,  that  these  peculiarities  of 
bottom  exist  also  outside  of  the  bar. 

The  fog  sometimes  stands  like  a  wall  outside  of  a  line  from  Fort  Point  across 
the  entrance;  while  the  bay  inside  is  beautifully  ch'ar.  Alter  the  greatest  heat  of 
the  day  is  passed  ths  fog  creeps  in  and  envelopes  land  and  water. 

The  western  and  seaward  end  of  the  four-fathom  bank  is  on  the  range  of  the 
south  end  of  Point  P.oneta  on  Fort  Point  light. 

Point  Boneta  light  bears  east  by  north  one-eighth  north,  distant  three  and  a 
half  miles. 

Outer  telegraph  station  on  Point  Lobos  bears  east  by  south  one-eighth  south, 
distant  live  aiul  a  quarter  miles. 

The  highest  part  of  the  western  ridge  of  Table  Mountain  bears  north  by 
west  one-eighth  Avest. 

Tliere  is  a  sixjt  having  but  three  and  three-quarter  fathoms  H])on  it  outside 
this  buoy,  bearing  southwest  by  south,  and  distant  seven-eighths  of  ;i  mile. 

THE  SnOKES  OF  THE  GOLDEN  GATE. 

On  the  north  side  of  tlie  Golden  Gate  the  shores  are  very  precipitous,  with 
an  occasional  short  stretch  of  sand  beach  at  the  base  of  the  bluffs,  atVording  a 
boat  landing.  Point  Diablo  is  the  first  point  inside  Boneta,  and  bears  iu)rtheast 
by  east  two-tiiirds  east,  distant  one  and  a  half  miles  from  it.  Between  these  p^iints 
the  shore  is  iiulented  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  affording  a  boat  landing  <hiring 
smooth  weather  for  the  light-house  people.  In  the  vicinity  of  Diablo  the  faces  of  the 
cliffs  show  of  a  lethlish  puq.le  (-(.lor.  The  rode  is  very  hard  and  flinty,  "  traversed 
by  seams  of  quartz,  ami  has  a  banded  or  l)elted  structure,  so  that  if  resembles 
varieties  of  jasper.  *  *  *  ♦  It  exhibits  its  stratified  character  most  dis- 
tinctly.    It  is  also  found  at  the  cinnabar  mine  of  New  Almadeii." 

The  red   si»ecl.-s;  fVu..wi   ....  ^-^      -  -  "~~         ~'"^ 


i.' 


I    'i; 


60  COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFORNIA. 

color  fron  siinsot  to  siuiriso.  It  is  oifihty-oiftlit  foot  abovo  tlio  lovol  of  tlio  son,  and, 
duiiii};  onliiiary  statos  of  tlio  atiiiosi»lioi'o,  can  l)o  soon  froni  an  elovation  of  liftooii 
foot  at  a  (listanoo  <»f  flftoou  niilos.  Tlio  angle  of  visil>ilit,\  soawanl  is  boiiiidod  by 
the  exti'oinity  of  Point  Bonota,  bearing  west  throe-quavtors  south,  and  Point  Lobos, 
beaiinji"  southwest  by  south  (luaiter  south. 

The  geographical  position,  as  determined  by  the  triangulation  of  the  Coast 
Survey,  is: 

Latitude 37  48  .-^1.0  north. 

Longitude iL'li  L'7  ;57.8  west. 

h.     m.   8. 
Or,  in  time 8    9  oO.o. 

The  light -house  first  built  u}»on  the  high  point  was  taken  down  when  the  for- 
tifieation  operations  commenced.  The  light  in  the  pn'sout  one  was  first  exhibited 
Uecember  lo,  180,'3. 

The  South  Farallon  light  is  visible  from  a  vessel's  deck  when  abreast  of  Fort 
Point. 

FOG-BELL  AT  FORT  POINT. 

The  iron  frame  work  sui)porting  the  bell  is  on  the  west  face  of  the  west  bas- 
tion of  the  fort  below  the  ]>aiapot.  The  niaohinory  for  tripping  the  hammer  of 
the  bell  is  on  the  south  face  of  the  same  bastion.  The  base  of  the  boll  is  forty 
and  a  half  loot  above  the  moan  level  of  the  sea.  The  boll  weighs  one  thousand 
and  ninety-two  pcmnds,  and  during  foggy  or  thick  weather  is  struck  by  machin- 
ery, live  blows  at  intervals  of  ton  seconds,  followed  by  a  pause  of  thirty-four 
seconds. 

licllhodt  on  San  Fmneisi'o  B(()'. — A  boll-boat  formerly  lay  (mtsido  the  bar; 
but  was  removed  some  years  ago.  The  English  Admiralty  Chart  ^'o.  LiiOl,  with 
corrections  to  March  1805,  still  retains  the  note. 

SAN  .'RAN'CISCO  llAR, 

The  bar  off  the  entrance  to  the  bay  of  San  Fiaiicisoo  has  a  depth  of  five 
fathoms  at  the  lowest  tides.  Its  general  form  is  that  of  a  horso-shoo,  commencing 
four  miles  southward  of  Point  Lobos,  stretching  out  gradually  to  siv  wiles  when 
abreast  of  it;  inid  when  nearly  up  to  the  parallel  of  Point  Houet.t,  running  in 

TJetweeii  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  "four-fathom  ba»k"  and  the  shore,  the 
distance  is  sevon-oights  of  a  mile ;  and  within  this  space  is  to  be  found  the  dooi»est 
water  for  entering  the  harbor,  but  it  would  be  daiiger<*us  for  a  .va/Zf/u/ vessel  to 
attempt  it  with  a  tlood  tide  and  light  winds.  While  it  is  breaking  on  the  bank, 
only  a  heavy  swell  is  Umnd  through  this  oight-and-a-half-fathom  ohannol,  and 
small  sailboats  have  passed  in  safety  win  ii  th«>  danicl  not  try  the  bar.  Vessels 
froqiioutly  use  this  channel  wiioii  the  heavy  weather  on  the  bar  wiuild  luevent 
them  from  ci-ossing  it.  Close  in  niidor  the  clitts.  two  or  three  miles  above  Bonota, 
there  is  good  anchorage  in  eight  tathoiiis,  with  muddy  bottom. 


wmmmm^mm 


COAST  riLOT  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


61 


Tlio  fld.Kl  tide  makes  on  the  l)ar  about  sixty-one  minutes  earlier  than  at  San 
Francis*';.. 

It  lias  been  jjiven  as  a  rule  for  steamers  approaeliinj;'  in  tliiek  weather,  to  run 
for  the  bar  as  nearly  as  they  can  estimate,  keepiiij;  the  lead  j,'oin};'  until  they 
strike  five  fatliouis,  and  run  on  uutil  the  depth  is  increased,  when  tiie  armed  lead 
should  lain  J,'  np  };ray  sand  witii  red  si)ecks,  and  they  may  conclude  themselves 
■within  the  bar.  It  has,  however,  been  ascertained,  that  these  peculiarities  of 
bottom  exist  also  outside  of  tlip  bar. 

The  fo<j  sometinu'S  stands  like  a  wall  outside  of  a  liiu»  from  Fort  Point  across 
the  entrance,  while  the  bay  inside  is  beautifully  clear.  After  the  greatest  heat  of 
the  day  is  passed  this  fog  creeps  in  and  envelopes  land  and  water. 

The  western  and  seaward  end  of  the  four-fathom  bank  is  on  the  range  of  the 
south  end  of  Point  IJoueta  on  Fort  Point  light. 

Point  lioneta  light  bears  east  by  north  one-eighth  north,  distant  three  and  a 
half  miles. 

Outer  telegraph  station  on  Point  Lobos  bears  east  by  soutli  one-eighth  south, 
distant  five  and  a  quarter  miles. 

The  highest  part  of  the  western  ridge  of  Table  ^louutain  bears  nortli  by 
west  one-eighth  west. 

Tiiere  is  a  s])()t  having  but  three  and  three-quarter  fathoms  upon  it  outside 
this  buoy,  bearing  southwest  by  south,  and  distant  scven-eiglitlis  of  u  mile. 


THE  SIIOUES  OF  THE  GOLDEN  aATE. 

On  tlu'  north  side  of  the  (lolden  Gate  the  shores  are  very  jireeipitous,  with 
an  occasional  short  stretcii  of  sand  beach  at  the  base  of  the  blutfs,  atfon'.ing  a 
boat  landing.  Point  Diablo  is  the  first  point  inside  I'.oiu'ta,  and  bears  northea  . 
by  east  two-thirds  east,  distant  one  and  a  half  miles  from  it.  Betweeu  these  iiMJuts 
the  shore  is  indented  about  tliree-tjuartcrs  of  a  mile,  alVording  a  boat  landing  during 
smooth  weather  for  the  light-house  people.  In  the  vicinity  of  Diablo  the  faces  of  the 
cliifs  show  of  a  reddish  purple  color.  The  rock  is  very  hard  and  (linty,  "traversed 
by  seams  of  quartz,  and  has  a  banded  or  iudted  structure,  so  that  it  resembles 
varieties  of  jasper.  #  »  *  »  It  exhibits  its  stratilied  (character  most  dis- 
tinctly.    It  is  also  found  at  the  cinnabar  mine  of  Xew  Almaden." 

The  red  specks  found  on  the  bar  are  <U»ul»tless  derived  from  tiie  disintegra- 
tion of  these  reddish  cliifs. 

From  Diablo  the  shore  is  jagged  and  irregular  to  Lime  Point  Bluff,  four  hun- 
dred and  ninety-five  feet  high,  distant  one  mile,  and  bearing  northeast  three- 
quarters  east.  Off  this  ]»oint  are  several  high  rocks,  but  they  are  so  close  to  the 
blutVas  to  be  distinguishable  only  from  certain  directions.  Fnmi  Lime  Point  lUiiff 
to  Fort  Point  the  distance  is  barely  a  mile,  and  the  bearing  south  by  east  three- 
quarters  east.  This  is  the  narrowest  part  of  the  Golden  Gate.  Thence  the  bay 
begins  to  open  well  to  the  noitlicast. 

(hi    the  south   side,  eastwaid    iVom    I'ort    Point,  the   shore   is   low.   Hat,  and 


i    I 


62  COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFOllNIA. 

marshy  to  Point  San  Jos^',  distant  two  and  a  half  miles,  and  boariiij?  oast  by 
north.  This  ])oiiit  is  iiiodciiitcly  high,  Avith  a  i'ow  houses  cliistt'iiiij;'  ii|)(ni  it,  and 
is  locally  known  as  IMack  Point.  Oil' this  reach  was  the  "outei  iiiichorai;*'"  of 
former  navigators,  and  the  Presidio  of  Sau  Francisco  is  seen  a  short  di.stance 
bcliind  it. 

"  It  is  a  eurions  and  interesting  tiict  that  the  sand  beach  between  Fort  Point 
and  Point  San  Jose  has  been  thrown  up  by  the  surf  upon  an  extensive  alluvial  deposit, 
which  has  the  character  of  a  peat  bog  or  sw;  jnp.  When  the  tide  is  very  low  the 
edge  of  this  peat  formation  may  be  seen.  Large  masses  of  the  peat  are  also 
broken  out  during  storms,  and  thrown  upon  the  sand  of  the  beach.  This  saiul 
and  all  the  loose  round  boulders,  from  three  to  eight  inches,  or  more,  in  dianu>ter, 
rest  upon  a  foundation  of  the  peat;  and  the  continuation  of  the  same  .sub- 
stance i.s  found  in  the  swamp  or  tlat  nujadow  land  which  lies  insiile  the  belt  of 
s.iiul,  and  between  it  and  the  base  of  the  sandstone  hills.  It  is  very  diflicnlt  to 
account  for  the  formation  of  this  swamp  under  conditions  like  those  at  present 
existing." 

*' A  strong  current  is  constantly  setting  back  and  forth  through  the  channel, 
and  the  action  of  the  surf  constantly  undcirmines  and  encroaches  upon  thebeacii, 
so  that  the  lU'esent  action  is  destructive,  and  the  swamp  could  not  possibly  have 
been  formed  while  tlie  Golden  Gate  was  open  as  we  now  find  it."  These  remarks 
are  taken  from  a  geological  report  of  the  coast  of  Califoi-nia,  by  W.  P.  Blake,  esq. 
(See  Coast  Survey  report  lor  1S55,  page  .'5S1).) 

From  Point  San  Jos(i  to  Xorth  Point,  at  the  base  of  Telegraph  Hill,  the  dis- 
tance is  one  mile,  and  the  bearing  east  three-quarters  m)rth.  AH  tiiis  .space  forms 
part  of  the  (^ity  of  San  Francisco,  and  is  covered  with  houses.  The  shore-line  is 
denominated  the  north  beach,  and  from  about  the  middle  of  the  lowest  part  pro- 
jects a  long  wharf  over  the  Hats  to  three  fathoms  water.  This  has  naturally 
caused  a  great  de])osit  around  it,  ami  now  only  four  and  a  half  feet  of  water  can 
be  obtained  at  the  northwest  i)ait  of  the  wharf  at  mean  low  water. 

Telegraph  Hill  rises  to  a  height  of  three  hundred  and  one  feet  above  the  mean 
level  of  the  bay,  and  is  covered  with  houses  to  its  sumiuit  wherever  building  room 
can  be  obtained.  The  present  plan  of  the  city  grades  contemplates  the  entire 
removal  of  this  hill. 

Tiu^  geographical  position  of  the  triangulation  station  of  the  Coast  Survey, 
upon  its  summit,  is: 

O  '  " 

Latitude ' 37  IS  OO.l  north. 

Longitude 1122  2:5  i;».i  west. 

Or,  in  time 8    0  ;$;{..'{. 

Ujuui  this  hill  was  foinicrjy  erected  a  tel('gia|)h  or  semaphore,  l»y  whi?h  intel- 
ligence of  the  ai rival  of  xesscis  off  tlie  Golden  (!ate  was  made  known  to  the  city — 
liciicc  the  name  of  III*'  iiill. 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


63 


ALCATUAZ  ISLAND  AND  LTOnT. 

This  is  tlif  first  islimd  tliiit  is  opciifd  in  fiitciiii;;'  the  (loldcii  fiiit<',  iiiid  upon 
it  is  (Mi'ctcd  a  lif^iit-hotisc.  Tiir  island  is  nearly  six  liiindicd  yards  lonji,  in  a  wcst- 
iiorthwest  direct  ion,  by  about  two  hundred  and  sixty  in  width,  and  rises  to  au 
elovatioii  of  uiw  hundred  and  thirty-five  I'eet  above  hij^h  water.  The  suniuiit  is 
flat,  fallinj4'  away  {;('ntly  on  all  sides  for  some  distanee,  and  thou  at  the  sides 
droi)pin^  per[)endieularly.  Upon  tlie  top  exists  a  lliin  layer  of  earth,  but  the  island 
is  composed  of  a  line-jjrained  and  "  very  compact  sandstt»n<'  of  a  dark  bluish  ^neen 
color."  Deep  water-marks  exist  all  round  the  island,  and,  willi  the  exception  of  one 
or  two  places,  the  sides  are  so  steep  that  a  laiidinj;-  is  etVected  with  difliculty. 
Extensive  fortifications  have  been  built  upon  it.  At  tli<'  southeast  side  a  small  i)ier 
lias  been  built  to  receive  stores,  ordnance,  and  materials.  Off  the  northwest  part, 
foul  bottom  makes  out  about  three  hundred  or  four  bundled  yards. 

Aleutroz  TnUdkI  li(jlit-h(t)i.se  is  built  on  the  sunuuit  of  the  island,  and  bears 
northwest  from  Telej;raph  Hill,  distant  one  and  two  thirds  mile;  from  Fort  Point 
northeast  three-quarters  east,  distanee  two  and  live-sixths  miles. 

The  lij^ht  is  a  fixed  harbor  light  of  the  natural  color,  and  of  the  third  order  of 
Fresnel,  illuminating-  the  entire  horizon,  and  exhibited  from  sunset  to  sunrise.  It 
is  one  hundred  and  sixty-two  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  should  be  seen 
under  ordinary  states  of  the  atmosphere  at  a  distancii  of  fourteen  miles,  or  o  it- 
.side  of  the  bar. 

Its  g(>oyraphical  position  as  determined  by  the  Coast  Survey,  is : 

Latitmle 37  ii)  )!().(>  north. 

Longitude 122  24  l.S.cS  west. 

h.     in.       H. 

Or,  in  time 8    ()1»  37.3. 

FOG-BELL  ON  ALCATKAZ   ISLAND. 

The  framework  su)>i)orting  the  bell  is  built  on  the  southeastern  extremity  of 
the  island,  close  to  the  water's  e<lge,  and  is  elevated  about  thirty  feet  above  the 
water.  The  bell  weighs  one  tlumsand  and  niiu'ty-twij  pounds,  and  during  foggy  or 
thick  weather  is  striu'k  by  machinery  four  blows  at  intervals  of  eight  seconds, 
followed  by  a  i)ause  of  twenty  seconds. 

Alcatraz  is  the  Spanish  name  of  the  island;  Beechey  erroneously  calls  it 
Alcatrasses. 

DANGERS. 

No  hidden  dangers  have  been  discovered  in  the  entrance  outside  of  the  line 
from  Fort  Point  to  Lime  Point  IMutll,  l>ut  there  are  several  inside. 

rUESIDiO   SIIOAL, 

having  three  and  a  half  fathoms  uixm  it,  lies  one  and  one-eighth  miles  inside  of 
Fort  Point,  and  bears  northeast  by  east  quarter  east  from  it,  or  three-quarters 


64 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFOllNIA. 


of  a  imiiit  oastwiud  of  the  line  lu'tAVccii  tlio  li<;lit«  on  Fort  Point  iind  Alcatraz 
Island.  TIh^  slioal  is  altout  seven  Imndicd  yards  Iom}^-  within  tlu;  lour  fat lioni 
eurve,  and  over  half  a  mile  Ion;;'  williin  the  livet'atiioni  eurve.  It  is  very  narrow, 
shttws  sandy  l>ott(»ni,  and  lias  deei»  water  all  aroiiud  it.  Its  geucral  direction  is  on 
the  above  mentioned  l)earin}>'. 

From  the  slioalest  jtart  the  Presidio   flafj-staH'  bears  soiitli  half  east,  and 
■vve  have  ventured  to  distinguish  the  shoal  by  that  uuiue. 


ANITA  ROCK 

shows  above  water  at  low  tides,  and  is  situated  one  ami  one-sixth  uules  inside 
of  Fort  Point,  and  bears  east  by  north  from  it.  It  is  only  three  himdred  yards 
from  the  low  beach,  and  has  deep  water  close  around  it. 

"A  spar  buoy,  ]>ainte(l  red,  with  even  numbers,  has  been  placed  in  three 
fathoms  water,  about  half  a  cable's  lenjith  due  west  from  the  slioalest  part  of 
Anita  Kock.  Vessels  shouhl  not  ai)proaeh  this  buoy  within  a  cable's  lenjj,th,  as  a 
strong'  euricnt  sets  across  the  rock."  It  was  named  after  the  Uiuted  States  quar- 
tenuaster's  bark  Anita  that  struck  upou  it. 

BIRD   OR  ARCH   ROCK 

is  a  small  pyramidal  rock,  about  forty-five  feet  in  diameter,  thirty  feet  hiph, 
and  bcarinf*  west  three-c|uai'ters  south,  distant  seveu-eijj,hths  of  a  mile  from  the 
light-house  on  Alcatraz  Island.  "When  seen  in  the  direction  from  or  towards  the 
Presidio  shoal,  it  presents  a  perforation  at  low  tides. 

STIACr  ROCK 

is  a  low  white-topped  rock,  about  half  a  mile  nearly  north-northeast  from  Bird 
liock.  From  Alcatraz  li{>ht  it  bears  west  by  ncnth,  distant  one  mile.  For 
about  three  hundred  yards  towards  Alcatraz  Island  the  bottom  is  foul  and 
irregular,  but  outside  that  limit  ten  fathoms  are  found.  The  rock  sIioavs  about 
four  feet  above  the  highest  tides,  being  theu  not  more  than  eight  or  ten  feet  in 
extent. 

WRECK. 

The  wreck  of  the  "Flying  Dragon,"  sunk  early  in  18G2,  inside  the  Golden 
(late,  has  been  found  in  tlu^  track  of  vessels  passing  close  to  or  between  Bird  uud 
Shag  Rocks.    There  is  plenty  of  water  around  this  obstruction. 

From  it  the  following  bearings  are  given  to  determine  its  position  : 

Shag  liock,  north  by  east  one-quarter  east,  distant  six  hundred  and  seventy 
yards. 

Bird  Kock,  east  one-quarter  south,  distant  three  hundred  and  thirty 
yards. 

Bird  E<X'k,  seen  from  the  wreck,  is  on  with  the  highest  point  of  Yerba  Buena 
Island. 


fl 


J 


COAST  I'lLOT  OF  ('AMI'Oi:NIA. 


ni-OSSOM    KOCK 


65 


is  ii  1<'(1;;('  liiivilij;'  five  I'fct  Wiitrr  upon  il  ;it  Ilit>  lowest  tides,  ;iii(l  witliiii  tlie 
three  tiilliorii  eiiive  is  iilioiit  tliree  iniiMlred  1>\  two  liiimlied  \;m(1s  in  extent,  with 
(iee|)  Wilier  ontside  tliese  limits.  A  s|iiii-  lnio\ ,  piiinted  with  red  ;iiid  lihiek  hori- 
zontal stripes,  h;is  lieeii  plneed  in  Ibiir  li(thoiiis  water,  aliont  hall'  a  cable's  lenj;tli 
due  s(»iitli  rr(nn  the  shoalest  pari  of  the  led^fe.  N'essels  slionhl  not  appioaeli  tliis 
buoy  I'roni  any  diicetioii  nearer  than  a  cable's  length.  In  the  wilder  of  ISti.'i-'til 
it  was  torn  from  its  mooriiijis  diiiinj:'  a  lieav\  iioitlier. 

Tins  ledye  bears  east  by  south  from  Alcatraz  li;;ht,  and  one  and  one  <'i;^htli 
mile  distant,  bein,^'  almost  on  the  liiu' Joining-  the  sontli  jioints  of  Aicatia/.  and 
Yerba  Ibiena  Islands.  I'roin  the  snmmit  of  TeU';;raph  Hill  il  iiears  north  half 
west,  distant  one  mile. 

It  was  discovered  and  named  by  Ileechey,  after  his  shij*,  in  November  ISi'G. 

YEIIUA  nUKXA   ISLAND 

is  the  laijic  hijih  island  oiieiied  to  the  oast  and  sontli  of  Alcatraz  after 
t'nt<'rin;4'  the  (Johh'U  (late.  The  western  point  oi'  this  island  is  one  and  thrc*;- 
quarters  mile  from  Telej;iaph  Hill,  and  the  bearing-  northeast  by  east.  Its  peak  in 
three  hiimlred  and  forty  three  feet  hij;h;  the  sides  steei»  and  irrej^iilar,  and  rising 
to  a  ridfie  rnniiiii";'  m-arly  east  and  west.  On  the  western  or  San  I'raiici.'C  >  side  the 
Avati'r  is  very  <leep  close  in  shore,  but  from  the  northwest  point  a  Ihree-fat  hom  baidc 
extends  one  and  one-(piarter  miles  noitlnvest  by  north,  sincadin;;-  to  the  eastward 
for  half  a  nule,  and  thenee  rnnninj;'  to  the  northeast  point.  The  wreck  of  the 
ship  Clown  Princess  lies  in  live  fathoms  on  the  western  ed^ic  of  this  bank,  and  a 
day  mark,  painted  red,  has  been  attached  to  her,  coiisistiiij;'  of  a  jilank  seven 
inches  by  three,  thirty  feet  loiijj;,  show  ini;'  fifteen  feet  above  hij^h  water,  with  a 
board  five  feet  loiijf  nailed  across  just  below  the  top.  The  followiujj  bearings  and 
distances  j^ive  its  position : 

Alcatraz  Island  lij;ht-houso,  west  by  south,  two  and  a  (piarter  miles. 

Telei^raph  Ilill,  southwest  by  south,  one  and  seveii-ei.n'hths  miles.         ^ 

AVest  end  of  Yerba  JJiieiia  Island,  southeast  by  south,  oiie-thiril  south,  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile. 

East  end  of  Verba  J'.uena  Island,  east  by  south  one-ipiarter  south,  one  mile. 

In  early  times  this  island  is  said  to  have  been  densely  coveied  with  wood,  and 
was  linown  to  navigators  and  whalers  as  Wood  Island.  Xow  it  has  but  a  few  scrubby 
trees.  In  18;J!)  a  large  number  of  goats  was  placed  upon  it,  and  it  receivtMl  the 
still  popular  name  of  (joat  Island.  On  a  recent  map  of  California  (1858)  it  is 
called  Ghote  Island. 


A>(tF,I-   ISLAND. 


When  i)assing  through   tlu^  narrowest  part  of  the  (iolden   Gate  this  large 
island  bears  about  north-northeast,  and  is  seen  as  an  island  for  a  very  short  time 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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33  WEST  MUiN  <^rs<2Y 

WEBSTIR.N.Y   14380 

(716)  S73-4S03 


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66 


COAST  riLOT  OP  CALIFORNIA. 


■when  in  the  iiaiTowost  part  of  tlio  Ciohlcn  Gato.  It  lias  an  irrcjjular  and  hold 
slioiv-liiK'  of  aliont  five  miles,  and  an  area  of  oni'  square  mile.  It  rises  t(t  a  lieijiht 
of  seven  hundred  and  s;'venty-one  feet,  is  eovered  witli  jfiass  and  l»ushes,  and  cut 
in  every  dire«!tion  hy  deei)  gulU-ys.  As  seen  fiom  the  southeastwanl  it  appears 
part  of  the  nortliern  poninsuhi,  hut  is  divich-d  from  that  on  its  northwest  face  hy 
Ilaeeoon  Straits,  three-(|uarters  of  a  mile  in  \vi(hh,  liaviiij;'  a  depth  of  water 
ranj;iny  from  ten  to  thirty  fathoms,  and  a  very  stroiifji'  eurrent.  A  narrow  hij-h 
juttiuf;'  point  makes  ont  from  the  southeast  portitni  of  the  ishind,  1)(>arin^  north 
three-quarters  west  from  AU-atraz  Ishmd  hght,  and  distant  one  and  live-eij;hths 
miU'S.  From  this  liead  the  general  trend  of  the  southern  face  for  over  a  mile  is 
west  hy  south  toward  Saucelito  Point. 

PUNTA  DE  LOS  OAVALLOS 

is  a  half  a  mile  north-northwest  from  Lime  Point  IJlnft".  The  shore  line  hetween 
them  falls  sliyhtly  hack,  and  a  very  small  valley  makes  down  from  the  high  hills 
behind 

POINT  SAl'CKLITO. 

From  Point  Cavallos  the  general  trend  of  the  shore  is  northwest  by  north  for 
one  and  one-half  miles  to  Point  Saucelito,  with  nearly  a  straight  shore-line.  One 
mile  from  Point  Cavallos  is  the  anchorage  of  Saucelito,  where  men-of-war  and 
whalers  formerly  an('lH)red.  It  lies  abreast  of  a  few  houses  forming  the  town  of 
Saucelito,  whence  nuicli  of  the  water  used  in  San  Francisco  was  formerly  taken 
in  steam  water-boats.  North  of  this  andiorage  is  a  large  bay,  witii  but  a  few  feet 
of  water.  From  Saucelito  Point  to  the  western  point  of  Angel  Island  the  distance 
is  one  and  three-quarters  miles,  and  the  bearing  northeast  by  east  half  east. 

To  Peninsida  l\>int,  forming  the  southwestern  part  of  llaccoon  Straits,  the 
distance  is  one  mile,  and  bearing  northeast  two-thirds  east. 

The  foUowing  list  of  geographical  positions  in  San  Francisco  Bay  is  taken 
from  the  pubbsln'd  reports  of  the  United  States  Coast  Survey: 

"  Outer  telcyniph  .v<«</oh,"  on  the  summit  of  the  hill  behind  Point  Lobos. 

Latitude 37  40  r>().2  north. 

Longitude 1U2  20  23.3  west. 

h.    m.     ». 

Or,  in  time 8  09  o?..!. 

^^  Presidio,"  near  the  Presidio  of  Sau  Francisco.  Priamry  astronomical 
station. 

C        '  " 

Lat  itiule 


4 


.'{7  47  2!).S  north. 

Longitude 122  2(;  lo.    west. 


Oi',  in  time 8  m  45.0. 

Magnetic  variation,  15°  27'  east  in  February,  1852:  yearlv  increase,  1'. 


f'ffiilfir  and  l)ol,l' 
'•iN<'s  to  ii  li('i;.|it 
'"'•^''<'S  JIIHl  cifc 
^Viiid  it  iij)]M'jir8 
'fliwost  fiiue  by 

^V  Jianow  Lif-h 
,  bcaiiii^r  iiyj.jij 

"J  fivo-eiylitiis 

over  a  iiiilo  is 


lino  botwocn 
tiio  high  hills 


I>.v  north  for 
leliiio.  One 
»-of-Mar  and 

tiK'  town  of 
'"X'rly  takon 

'«  il   1<'\V  f(.,.t 

f'i<^  "listance 
oast. 
Sfiaits,  tho 

«y  is  taken 

5bos. 

0-2  nortli. 
5.^  west. 

lonomical 


I 


'  north. 

west. 


fi 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFORNIA.  67 

TrJeyraph  hill,  noar  tin?  Sun  Fnuioisoo  ohsci-viitory.     Piininry  nstroiioiiilcal 
station. 

Lalitiid.' ''57  47  .lii.S  iioitli. 

Loiij-iladi' 12-2  2:\  U)     w.-sl. 

/(.     HI.  v. 

Or,  ill  tinu' «  <>'.»  .">1'.."'. 

Tlic  liiyjlicst  part  <»t'  tlic  liill  is  tlirt'c  Iiumlrt'd  and  one  feet  altDVf  tlie  mean 
levt'l  of  tlu'  Itay  7".t  nortli,  and  !>".!  west  of  tlic  astronomical  station. 

Jiincnii,  siinmiit  of  tlit;  slij^lit  hill  northeast  of  Sontli  Park.  Secondary  astro- 
nomical station. 

Latitndc -'57   17  (Mt.O  north. 

Lonjiitndc iL'li  'Jli  ;W     west. 

h .    HI .      K. 

Or,  in  time 8  0<»  :50.1. 

.SATI.INd   DIRECTIONS   FOll   AriTvO\riIlN<t   AND   EXTKRfNG   SAN   FIJANCLSOO   BAY. 

In  approaciiiii;;-  the  land  in  the  vicinity  of  San  Frant-isco,  it  i.s  of  fjroat  iniimrt- 
ance  that  accurate  determinations  of  their  vessel's  i)osition  should  be  often  obtained 
by  shipmasteis,  as  tb;is  and  thick  weather  are  apt  to  prevail  near  the  land. 

Ciiminiiffom  the  sitHtlin-anl  it  is  customary  to  make  the  coast  about  Point  ATio 
Nnevo,  (latitude  :M°  07' north.)  and  then  to  follow  it  up  to  the  bar,  keei»inj>-  about 
four  or  live  miles  from  shore.  If  the  weather  be  fo;;';>y  or  thick,  vessels  should  keep 
closer  to  the  shore,  so  as  not  to  lose  it,  as  there  are  no  dangers  between  Point  Afio 
Nuevo  and  the  bar.  In  ^ood  weather  i)ass  Poini  Afio  Nuevo  on  a  northwest  by 
nortli  three-iiuaiters  north  course  at  about  eij^lit  miles  distance,  and  continue  thi.s 
course  until  you  are  abreast  of  Point  San  Pedro,  five  miles  olV,  when  steer  nortli 
one-(|uarter  east  for  Point  Boneta  lij;ht -house  until  you  are  within  live  eijilithst.f  a 
mile  of  the  south  end  of  Honeta,  and  have  Alcatraz  li--ht-liouse  bearin;--  northeast 
by  east  half  east  of  you  open  to  the  southward  of  Honeta.  Now  steer  for  Alcatraz 
lijiht  house,  jiassiii^f  nearly  half  a  mile  to  tlie  southward  of  Point  15oneta,and  one- 
thhd  of  a  mile  to  tlie  northward  of  Fort  Point;  and  coiitiiuie  tliis  course  until  the 
south  end  of  Verba  Ibiena  islaml  liears  east  half  north,  and  you  are  lu-arly  one  and 
three-quarters  miles  from  Alcatraz.  Now  steer  east  half  nortli  for  the  south  end  of 
Yorba  nueiia,  having-  the  southern  portion  of  the  town  of  Oakland  visilde  to  the 
Bouthward  of  it.  This  clears  tlic  i^Iossom  Pock.  On  this  course,  when  yon  are 
exactly  between  Alcatraz  lijiht  house  and  North  Point,  steer  east-southeast  alonj? 
the  lint  of  wharves,  and  anchor  otV  tlie  northeast  front  of  the  city  in  ten  fathoms 
soft  mud.*     Put  sailiuK  vess«'Is  should  be  careful  in  nsiii";-  the  course  for  xVlcatraz 

*  (KxtriK'ls  from  tlu'  I{<');nliilii>im  rif  (lie  niirbdf  niiil  I'ml  "f  Sun  Fram'lwo.l 
AiiTicir.  1.  No  vi'ssi'l  sliiill  111'  iiiDinTd  ill  tlu'  liiirlicir  of  S:im  I'lmicisi o  inMicr  tli:in  live  liiiinlvcil 
yiiiils  from  ii  liin'  willi  llii'  fiiils  nf  llic  wliiirvi's :  tlic  liMilxir  iiiMstcr  will,  nii  iiinilicalion.  (|i'siy;ii:it<) 
n  piiiiMi'  licrlh,  mill  ^ivi'  tin'  iii'ci's>tiir,v  illicitioiis  tor  iiitMiriii}{,  iicforillii;;  tn  the  siiiscin  of  tli«'  yi'iiv. 
AitT.  •-'.  All  miiNlt-rs  imil  iiiloLs  an'  iiotilird  not  lo  amlidr  vi-s^scLs  within  live  limulivii  viiids  of  a 


j'li 


if 


0."^ 


COAST  riLOT  OV  CALirOlJNIA. 


li;;;Iif,  as  otiicrwisc  tlM-v  umy  he  ciirrii'd  too  dose  to  ilic  mulliorii  sIkh*',  wImtc  llicy 
iirc  iipt  to  In-  lit'ciilmcil  iiiitl  Itiilllcd  witli  Viiiiiililc  iiirs  iiinl  stroii;^'  ciiriciit  cildifs, 
ami  iiic  soiiit'liini's  ciirrifd  iisliot'c.  ( 'arc  iiiiisl  Im'  laUni  on  llic  (•Micr  liaiid  not  to 
apiiroacli  I'ort  I'oiiit  tot*  dose,  as  the  i'linciits  set  uroiiiid  it  iir('j;ularl\  and  with 
}>'i-fat  ra|)i<lity,  and  tlir  hottoni  is  uneven  and  locky.  Should  the  wind  Itesolliat 
tlie  vessel  cannot  obtain  ilic  ran;;-e  of  the  Iij;lit  iiniiscs  w  itjiout  taekin;;,  tlicn  she 
inav  cross  the  l»ar  witli  IJoneta  li;iht  lioiise  heaiinj^'  Iroiii  iM>rth  l».v  west  to  noitheast 
l»y  east;  j;ive  Moncta  a  iicrtli  of  ii  niih-,  and  \\he?i  within  the  heads,  with  lioneta 
abeam,  <;'i'adually  opeinii};  Ah-atra/.  Ii;4ht  house  iiortii  ot'  I'ort  I'oint  until  a  xain  of 
the  lattei',  when  pi'oci'cd  as  iiefore. 

('oin!iitj/r(im  the  irrstiniril,  fust  sijilit  Sontii  Faralion  linht  house,  (latitude  .'{7<^ 
4L*' luuth,)  which  leave  to  the  iiortiiwaid,  and  steer  northeast  Iiy  east  sevenfecu 
iidles,  whieli  will  iuin;;' you  close  to  the  bar,  and  you  will  have  I'oit  I'oint  li;;ht 
exactly  ahead  of  you.  Now  briiii;'  Alcatraz  lifjht  to  itciir  northeast  by  east  half  east, 
when  it  will  appear  about  midway  between  Toint  I'.oiieta  lijiht  and  I'ort  Point  lij;ht. 
Cross  the  bar  on  this  course  for  Alcatraz,  and  proceed  as  before  dii'ectcd.  Troin 
South  Faralion  lifiht  bouse.  I'oiid  Pxuieta  light-house  bears  northeast  by  east,  distant 
twenty-three  and  two-thirds  miles. 

VomiiKj  ffDiH  Ihi'  nortliiciirtl  (iinl  ircstiniril,  lii'st  make  Point  iicyes.  which  is  live 
hundred  and  ninety-seven  feet  liinli.  and  is  in  latitude  .{S^  my  north,  and  lon.i;itiide 
12;{o  (KC  west.  I'asN  within  two  or  three  miles  of  it,  iiut  be  caiclul  not  to  j;et  too 
close;  for  altliou,L;h  there  aic  tifteen  fatlutms  within  a  (piaiter  ofa  mile  of  the  shore, 
vessels  are  ai»l  to  lose  the  wind  by  j^etting  under  the  jioint.  I'rom  I'oint  IJeyes 
steer  <'ast  southeast  twenty-two  and  a  (piarter  miles,  or  until  you  open  Alcatraz 
lij;ht  house  to  the  south war<l  of  I'oint  IJoneta,  when  you  must  sti'cr  for  I'ort  I'oint 
lijiht -house  about  east  by  north  three  (piurlcrs  north,  and  cross  the  bar  on  that  ran^i'e. 
On  this  course  when  I'oint  I'.oncta  liyht  house  bears  noithwest  half  north  a  little 
abaft  the  beam,  Alcatraz  light  will  bear  ntuthcast  by  east  half  cast,  when  you  must 
steer  for  it  aiul  proceed  as  before  dirccteil. 

DIUKr'noNS  Foil  VtlSSKI..'^   IX   Tnif'K  WEATIIKR. 

Strangers  aitproatdiing  the  entrance  during  thi<'k  M'cathcr  should  do  so  with 
gi'cat  caution,  carefully  taking  fretpu'iit  soundings  with  not  h'ss  than  two  hundred 
fathoms  of  line;  and  as  soon  as  soundings  are  had  within  this  depth  they  slioidd 
stand  oflaud  on  until  the  weather  ch'ars,  or  a  i)ilol  can  be  had.  The  line  of  one 
humlred  ami  lil'ty  fatht»ms  is  distant  four  miles  from  North  raralloii,  lu'arly  live, 
miles  from  South  I'arallon,  twenty-f(Mir  miles  t'rom  Point  San  Pedro,  eight<'«'n  and 
a  half  miles  from  Pigeon  Point,  and  seventeen  miles  from  Poiid  Afio  Nucvo.  The 
Ticglect  of  this  iini)ortaid  precaution  has  caused  the  loss  of  several  valuable  vessels 


lini'  with  tlir  i'iiiIh  of  thf  whuvves  IVoiii  N(irtli  I'ohit  to  tli(>  Tlnnl  Street  wtinrl",  wliicli  N|»iii'e  iiiiist  lio 
kt'jit  I'li'SH'  for  I  lie  ari'iiliiilli)il:!liiin  nt'  vi'NSi ',  s  !l|i|irn,'ieliill<;  or  li'!l\  iii;^  tlic  »  liiir\  cs. 

Aim'.  :1.  All  ncsscIs  lyinj;  ;il  sinnlr  uriclnpr  iiinst  li:ivc  a  ;;iiii(l  ami  siilliciiiil  li;;lit  slmw  ii  In  siiiiii- 
|>ai't  III' till' rl<;;j;iii<i'.  at  Irast  lit'li'iMi  I'l'it  alinvi' ili  rl<,  iliiriiit;  tln'  iil;;lit.  Aii,\  vinlatioii  nl' llii.s  ai  liilr 
will  I'i'iiiirr  tliriii  lialtli'  I'oi'  ilaiiui^^r.s  in  tlir  cvriit  til'  eiillisioii. 


COAST  IMLOT  OF  CALITOliNlA. 


GO 


and  niiiiiy  livow,  Htcaincrs,  in  tliifk  woatlior,  arc  siccnHtonicd,  if  tlirir  on]Uiiins  l»o 
w«-li  iii'>i(iiiint('(l  \villi  tlic  ciitranct',  to  run  closr  alun;:  tlit>  coast,  and  *>ndra\oi-  to 
make  tlx-  land  north  of  Point  Saa  I'cdro.  running  in  until  tlicy  iiv\  aliout  tittrrn 
t'atlioMis.  and  tluMi  lay  a  coursi'  lor  ihr  liar,  slioalin^'  upon  it  to  altout  live  t'allioiii.s, 
and  tlicn  jxiadiiailv  diTpcniii;,',  wliilc  tin*  to^  ;;uii  ,i;iv«'s  tiuMU  (lir  direction  of  lion- 
da  li;;lit  house.  In  tliis  way  sliipaiasters  faniiliar  with  the  entrance  frequ<iitly 
run  in  duiiuff  dense  fo^s;  hut  straiifO'i"'*  "^'I'lidd  never  attempt  it. 

The  I'nited  Slates  sloop  of  war  Vincennes,  duiiny:the  ciiiise  of  the  e\|»lorinij 
expedilitui.  aiuhoied  on  the  bar  in  a  calm,  and,  when  the  tlood  I  ide  made  it  lii'ou;;ht 
up  a  swell  that  broke  over  her. 

In  hcatiiKi  Dill.  v«'ssels  start  oi;  the  last  quarter  of  the  tlood,  make  the  first  tack 
to  tlie  northward  of  the  iilossoni  I'oek,  and  weatliiT  it  on  the  second;  liu'iieelhey 
ke«'p  between  Alcatraz  and  tl>.'  south  shore,  avoiding  I'.ird  K'oek.  oiu'  mile  west  ot 
the  south  en<i  of  the  island,  anil  ;;ivin;.;'  a  ^^ood  beith  to  I'ort  Point,  past  which  the 
ebb  euirent  will  caiiy  them  lajtidl.N.  (with  a  stionj;'  tendency  towards  the  south 
sli(ne,)and  a  eou])le  more  tacks  carrv  them  clear  of  the  heads.  If  the  vessel  \h\ 
bound  to  the  northward,  and  the  weather  shut  in  thick,  with  th«>  wind  to  the  north- 
west, she  makes  ii  tack  olf  shore  to  the  sonthwanl  of  the  I'arallones;  if  the  weuther 
be  clear  slioit  lacks  ai'c  made  olf  shore  until  she  woiks  n|)  to  Los  Peyes.  because 
♦  he  sea  to  the  leeward  of  that  headland  is  much  smoother  and  the  current  less; 
then  stands  oil'  uritil  a  course  can  be  made  for  her  poit. 


Tin;   WINDS. 

It  has  been  advised  to  wmk  close  idou<;'  shore  to  northern  polls  during;  the 
siunmer  norlhwesi  winds,  and  take  the  chances  of  hind  breezes  to  make  lalilude, 
but  the  attempt  will  double  the  leni^lh  of  any  voya;;e.  I>;illlinu-  liuhl  airs  :ind 
calms  freipieiitly  exist  aloiij^-  Ihe  eoust,  while  \cssels  several  hundi<'d  miles  of.  li:ive 
stroiij;-  norlhwest  winds.  Moreover,  alon;;'  the  coast  we  know  lliat  Ihe  current 
frequently  sets  two  miles  per  hour  from  Ihe  northward,  evcept  ver\  close  under 
the  sIku'cs.  In  our  exi)erienee  we  never  yet  have  met  a  wind  olf  the  land  norlh  of 
San  l''rancisco,  and  \  cry  ran-ly,  indeed,  soiilli  of  it,  except  in  the  rej;ioii  of  the 
Santa  IJarbara  Channel.  As  u  jieneral  ride,  it  may  be  safely  stated  that  the  sum 
mer  winds  follow  tlu'  line  of  the  coast,  nearlv,  and  ^^radiially  draw  towards  and 
over  the  laud.     In  winter,  with  winds  from  the  southward,  this  is  not  so  iiMiked. 

From  A|Mil  to  October,  inclusive,  the  jtrevailinji  wind  is  from  the  northwest, 
ehanyiu^-  to  west  in  valleys  opeiiinj;'  upon  the  const,  but  in  no  case  so  stron;,dy  as 
throu}ili  Ihe  (ioldeii  (iale.  I>iiriii;;'  the  summer  the  wind  sets  in  stronjf  about  10 
a.  111.,  iiicreasiii^f  until  nearly  sunset,  when  it  bejiins  to  die  away.  During;  its  heijiht 
it  almost  re^nilarly  brinj;s  in  a  dense  foj;-,  which,  workiiijf  its  way  over  the 
l»eiiiiisnla,  meets  that  already  advanced  throii;;h  tliedoldeii  (late,  and  envelopes 
San  Francisco  and  the  bay  by  sunset.  Asa  rule,  the  breeze  does  not  dispel  the 
fo;ij.  If  a  fof^  exists  oiitsid*',  the  wind  is  sure  to  briii;n'  it  in,  but  the  heated  earth 
dissipates  it  for  a  time. 


70 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFOHNIA. 


Froin  Novombor  to  ]\Ijirch  tlic  wind  is  fr<M|uciitl.v  from  tlio  sontlienst,  blowing 
lit'in  il.v,  winkin;,'  round  to  tiic  soiitliwcst,  witli  ii  hnav  :ind  Itrokon  swell  IVoni  tlio 
soulliwcsl,  wt'iitlicr  thick,  liiinv,  iind  s(|iiidl.v;  tli»'  wind  net  niilVcfincntl.v  ending 
at  noitliwcst,  with  an  ngl.v  cioas  soa.  DMiinj;  lieav.v  southeasters  the  sea  breaks 
npon  the  San  Fnnn!isco  bar,  ch'an  across  the  entrance,  presenting  a  learl'id  sight. 
The  sound  can  be  heard  at  the  anchoragi'  in  front  of  the  city. 

J)nriiig  some  winters  a  hard  "norther"'  will  spring  up  and  blow  steadily  and 
strongly  from  om^  to  tive  days,  with  a  clear  blue  sky,  and  cold  bracing  weather. 
Winds  rari'ly  blow  from  points  between  north,  round  by  the  east,  t«)  southeast. 

The  further  north  we  advance,  the  heavier  blow  the  gales  in  the  wniter.  The 
northwest  winds  are  not  predii-tcd  by  the  baronu'tor,  but  those  from  the  soutlicast 
are,  almost  invariaidy;  the  mercury  falling  om^  inch  lV(»m  its  usual  heigid  of 
about  thirty  inches  WluMi  it  begins  to  rise,  tiie  wind  may  be  expected  soon  to 
shift  round  by  the  west,  and  to  decrease.  Oidy  in  one  instance  during  our  experi- 
ence has  this  failed,  au«l  that  was  otf  the  Strait  of  .luan  de  Fuca. 

On  the  tops  of  the  mountains  bordering  the  coast  light  variable  and  easterly 
airs  are  frequently  experienced  whilst  the  northwest  winds  are  blowing  freshly 
along  the  seaboard.  Upon  Sidphur  IVak,  in  latitude  .'JS^  !(»',  and  twenty-six 
miles  from  tlu'  coast,  we  have  had  fresh  breezes  from  the  east-northeast,  whilst 
the  usual  northw»'st  winds  were  prevailing  otf  shoic.  On  Ifoss  Mountain,  (udy 
three  miles  from  the  sea,  and  rising  L',li»7  feet  from  the  right  baidc  of  the  Slavi- 
anska  Kiver,  we  Jbiiud  variable  airs  when  strong  summer  winds  were  blowing 
below. 


TinF,«  AT  SAN  FUANCrS'^O. 


As  a  general  rule,  there  are  upon  the  Pacitic  Coast  of  the  United  States  one 
large  and  one  small  tide  during  each  day,  the  heigiits  of  two  succt'ssive  high 
waters — occuniiig  one,  a.  m.,  and  the  other,  j).  m.  of  the  same  twenty-four  hours — 
and  the  iidervals  from  the  next  i)reeeding  transit  of  the  moon  are  very  ditVcrent, 
so  much  so  that  at  certain  periods  a  rock  which  has  three  and  a  half  fe<!t  upon  it 
at  low  tide  nmy  be  awash  on  the  nexi  succeeding  low  water. 

These  inequalities  (h>|)end  upon  the  moon's  declination.  They  disa])])ear  near 
the  time  of  the  moons  declination  being  nothing,  aiul  are  greatest  about  the  time 
of  its  being  greatest.  The  ine(pudities  for  low  water  are  iu)t  the  same  as  tor  high, 
tlumgh  they  disappear  and  have  the  greatest  value  at  nearly  the  same  times. 

When  the  moon's  declination  is  lutrth,  the  higher  of  the  two  high  tides  of  the 
twenty-four  hours  occurs  at  San  Fran<'isc,o  about  eleven  and  a  half  hours  after  the 
moon's  transit;  and  when  the  de<'linatiou  is  south,  the  lower  of  the  two  high  tides 
occurs  at  about  that  interval.  The  lower  of  the  two  low  waters  of  the  tlay  is  the 
one  which  follows  next  the  high  water. 

The  corrected  establislimeid,  or  mean  interval  between  the  moon's  transit  and 
the  time  of  high  water  at  Fort  Point,  San  Francisco  Bay,  is  iLVi.  (iw.  The  mean 
rise  and  fall  of  tides  is  .'3.0  feet;  of  spring  tides  l..'J  feet;  and  of  neap  tides,  2.8 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFOUN'.A. 


71 


foot.  Tlio  moan  duration  oftlio  UimmI  is  (Hi.  IV.Un.;  of  tlio  obit,  'tit.  'Am.;  and  of  the 
stand,  ."•l»«.  Tiio  avoiii;;('  dilVoronco  botwoon  tlio  oonootod  ostablisiinionf  of  tiio 
a.  Ml.  and  p.  ni.  tid«'s  ol'  tho  sanio  day  is  1/*.  -Sin.  for  liij;h  wator,  and  (>//.  .'{S»/.  fol- 
low wator.  Tiio  dilVi'ioncos  wiion  tlio  moon's  doolinal ion  is  j;n'iit(st  mv  -h.  IWiii. 
and  (>A.  I*^»J.  Tlio  avoiay'o  dilVoroiico  in  lioi^lit  of  tlioso  Iwotidos  is  I.l  fret  for 
tlio  liij^li  wators,  and  'J.'J  foot  for  tlio  low  wators.  Wlion  tlio  moon's  doolinaliiiii  is 
jjroatost,  tlioso  difloroiioos  aio  1.5  foot  and  3.7  foot,  rositootivoly.  Tlio  avora^o 
dilforonoo  of  tlio  lii^lior  liiyli  ami  lowor  low  wators  of  tlio  samo  day  is  o.li  foot,  and 
Avlion  tlio  moon's  doolination  is  },Moatost,  fl.l  foot.  Tlio  lii^ilior  lii;;li  tido  in  tlio 
twonty-fonr  lionrs  oooiirs  about  ll/<.  liU'wi.  aftor  the  moon's  njipor  transit,  (south 
in;,',)  wlioii  tlio  moon's  doolination  is  north,  and  about  Ih.  'Jiii.  botbro,  whon  south. 
Tho  lowor  of  tho  low  wators,  iibout  7/<.  aftor  tho  hij,dior  hi^jjh  titlo.  Tho  ^rroatost 
obsorvod  dilVoronco  botwoon  tho  two  low  wators  of  ono  day  was  o.li  foot.  And  tho 
groatoat  dilloroiice  betwoon  the  hiyhor  high  and  hiwor  low  wators  of  one  day  was 
8.5  foot. 

The  two  tides  of  the  same  day  are  ^jfonerally  nne()ual  in  proportion  to  the 
moon's  doolination.  The  time  and  hoiyiit  eun  be  obtained  api>roxima(ely  from  the 
followin;'  table  : 


MiHin's  iippiT  mi'i'iilian  iihhhiik'' 


Mimiii'h  ili^clinutlui. 


lliyh  wiil.T. 


Moim's  li)V.rr  iiirriiliiin  paflfuiKC 
Lmv  «iitrr.  i  lli::li  wiilrr.  |         Low  «;itor. 


Iiilvrviil.    j  IIri;,'h.        Iiitcrviil.       lli'i|;lil.       Iiitcrvul. 


U.  il. 

GrcntcBt  imrlli I        10  M 

Zero }        II  44 

CiruaU'Ht  Hoiitli I'J  .'lO 


Fret. 

:>.  :> 

4.7 
4.1 


;/.  J/. 

n  M 

17  -St 
17  OU 


Fett. 
—0.5 

0.  H 
','.6 


11.  it. 

\i  M 
11  44 
10  54 


Uiiuht.      Inlirval. 


Fffl. 
4.  I 
4.7 

.I.  ,'■. 


II.  it. 

I  17  (111 
I  17.5 
1         17  M 


Huiulit. 

Ffrt. 
a.  li 

0.8 
—0.5 


The  interval  is  to  bo  added  to  the  time  of  the  moon's  ni(>ridian  jiassa^o  to 
give  the  time  of  high  and  low  water.  The  time  «>f  the  moon's  ni»i>or  meridian 
passage  is  given  in  the  almanae,  and  the  time  of  its  lowor  meridian  pa.s.sage  is  the 
middle  between  two  sneeessivc  upper  passages.  Tho  heights  are  given  in  feet 
and  tenths,  and  show  the  rise  above  the  level  of  the  average  of  the  lowest  low- 
waters;   to  whieh  level  tho  soundings  on  tho  ehart  are  given. 

Spring  tides. — At  the  full  and  eliaiige  of  the  moon  the  high  waters  will  be 
0.3  foot  higher  than  the  above,  and  the  low  waters  0.1  foot  lowor. 

Xcap  tides. — At  th»'  moon's  lirst  and  last  quarters  tln'  high  waters  will  bo 
0.3  foot  lower,  and  the  low  waters  will  not  fall  as  low  by  0.4  foot. 


TIIK  SKASONS. 


There  are  but  two  seasons  on  the  raoitio  eoast,  usually  denominated  the  dry 
and  the  rainy  seasons;  the  former  oorrosi>onding  to  the  Atlantic  summer,  and  tho 
latter  to  the  winter;  but  mnoh  error  exists  in  regard  to  them,  espooially  as  to  the 
auiouut  of  rain  falling  during  the  rainy  season.    The  following  totals  of  rain  that 


f 

1                                 ^ 

73                                   <'()AHT  PILOT  OF  C'ALIKOKNIA. 

loll  at  San  FiaiKMscn  duiiii;;  eacli  raiii.v  sfa.soii  siiuM*   1H."»0  will  sliow  tli 

at   thu 

yearly  aiiiiiiiiit  is  iKit  ;,'r(';it: 

Diiriiij,'  till'  rainy  svasoii  of  isr»()-',"il  tliorc  ffll     7.0  inclios. 

*'            "            "           l.s,"»i -'."»:»         "        i!».(>      '« 

«'           "            "          isr.i.'-V»;{         "       ;ii'.7 
"           "            "          i,s.-.;u7)i         «'       L'l.'.t     '• 

«              «               ««             IS.-iI-Tm           "         L'|.;5       " 

(( 


u 


]sr».v.">(> 
is.")(j-'r)7 


is: 


« 


t( 


« 


« 


« 


(( 


(( 


<( 


(( 


(i 


(I 


« 


(t 


« 


i( 


(( 


(( 


':.!» 


i,s.v.»-()0 

l.S«l-'«ili 
l.S(;L'-'(i3 

is(i;!-"(;i 
ls(;i-'(M 
ls(;.V(i(; 
is(;(i-'(;7 
isdT-tJs 


Avcrafjt'  of  ci^'litroii  rainy  seasons. 


1.M.7 

L'L'.O 
IJI.I 

1(1.1 

21.7 


.*U.t)       " 

;5s.s     " 
llM'-'t  ini'Iu's. 


HHon  S.'!  (lay.H. 


i!»     " 


(>'.) 


u 


The  rainy  season  of  l.S(il-*01i  was  rcniarliai)l('  for  tlii'  disastrous  I'lTt'cts  of  tho 
groat  rains  in  Dcci-nilu'r  ami  Jannary.  in  the  latter  iialf  of  Dt'ccinlM'r,  (»..'!  inelics 
fell;  in  the  tirsi  lialfof  ■liinnarv.  l.">.!»  inches;  and  in  the  latter  hall'of  .lanintry, 
8.."i  inelies.  At  Sunora,  Tnolunme  eonnty,  no  less  than  72  inches  were  re;;islered 
between  Novenil)er  11,  IStil,  and  .Jannary  11,  IStJi,'.  Millions  of  dolhirs' worth  of 
projierty  were  destroyed  in  the  Sacramento  Valley. 

It  is  a  curious  fact  tlial  tiie  jiau;;*'  at  tin-  reservoir  of  the  Sprin^j  Valley 
"Water  (vonipany,  at  the  head  of  IMIlarcitos  Creek,  on  the  rid;;*'  between  Half 
M()on  I5ay  and  San  Francisco  Uay,  sliows  a  rain-fall  (Ifty  per  cent.  ^M'eater  than  ii 
similar  ^auj^e  on  Uiissian  lliil,  in  San  Francisco,  two  hundred  and  ninety  feet 
above  tiie  sea. 

The  f(»ilowin<if  table  will  show  how  the  fore^'oin;;  yearlj-  aruouuts  were  distri 
bated  each  nutnth,  from  November  1S."»(>,  to  the  end  of  .June*  1808: 


Mean  monthly  rain  for  .lanuary,        inches,  .1.27 


i( 


u 


u 


u 


(( 


u 


"  February, 

"  March, 

"  April, 

"  May, 

"  June, 

"  July, 

"  Au^^ust, 

"  Septembe 


:;j 


3Iean  of  winter,  14..'$1. 


;{.i8 


1.8i 


.7.'>  [  ^Feau  of  siuing'.  o.7.">. 

.0, 

.02  |-  Mean  of  summer,  0.00. 

.04  ' 


CX)AHT  IMI.()T  OF  CALIFOUMA. 


Monii  niontlilv  rain  for  Ocfohor, 


Illcllt'S 


u 


tt 


(I 


"   NuvciiiImt, 

"     J)('t'('lulMT, 


Ali'iiii  of  autiiiiin,  .'i.  .'lO. 


(liviiifj  .'I  yciiily  nvciii^ic  of. . 


.(».■) 


All  I'Xiiiiiiiialioii  of  tlu!  oxtcinlt'd  (iildcs  IVoiii  wliicli  tlic  above  rcsnlt.s  are 
dcrivrtl,  sliow  that  as  a  rule  the  ;;i'eatest  depth  of  water  I'all.s  in  Deceiiiltei,  and 
tliat  (hiriii;;'  the  hitter  liall'ot'  liecoiuber  and  the  lir.st  hall'  of  .laiiiiai.v,  oiie-luiirth 
of  the  yearly  averaj;-e  falls. 

There  i.s  a  very  notable  abatement  from  the  mi<ldle  of  .laniiaiy  to  the  niiiidh^ 
of  Feitriiary.  In  IS.'*!  we  notieed  thi.s  paitieiilarly  when  .stationed  at  Point  I'iiios, 
beeanse  the  above  perhxl  was  iiiiieh  proloii;;ed.  In  I.S."»:,',  while  observing;'  near  the. 
Presidio  of  Sail  Fianeiseo,  we  foiiiid  this  period  to  e\teiiil  iVoni  the  eaily  part  of 
.laniiary  to  near  the  end  of  Feitriiary.  In  I.S."»S-"(iil,  nml  '(il,  and  the  eMcptional 
jtart  of  ISliL',  we  found  this  cessation  •.  arketl.  In  I'ebriiary  l^Ul  nu  rain  tell  j 
anil  in  Felnnary  isii,"),  only  l.'M  iiu'lies  upon  ei;iht  days. 

Dnrin;^  the  latter  part  of  Mareh  heavy  rains  oeeni,  and  al)oiit  the  middle  of 
April.     The  southerly  wind.s  ;jeiierally  biiii;;   the   rain,      Dniinji    the  seasons  we 


d  about  San  P'ranei." 


never  heard  thunder  or  saw  liiililnin 


ind   ne\i 


jtas.seu  aooiii  .>an  rranei.seo  we  never  nearii  iniiiMier  or  saw  ii;;iiiniii^,  aim  never 
but  once  .saw  snow  fall,  and  then  only  at  an  elevation  of  four  hundred  feet  ;  lint 
line  bein^'  distinetly  marked,  and  the  elevation  beiii};'  well  ilelermined  by  a 
knowledge  of  the  heij,dit  of  tln^  hills.  On  the  mountains  of  the  seaboard  snow 
freipieiitly  falls,  but  with  tiitliii;;- depth. 

The  foj^s  that  prevail  on  the  eojist  diirin;;  the  dry  season  have  a  thiekness  of 
one  thoii.saiid  thr«'e,  hundred  to  one  thous;ind  .seven  hnmlred  feet  ;  ^^enerally 
the  f(M-iner,  and  only  upon  one  oeeasion  have  we  determined  the  latter.  Thron;;h 
this  '<en.se  eloml  the  mountain  tops  jiieree  as  island.s. 

The  foUowin;;  .statement  will  ;;ive  a  j,feneral  itlea  of  the  tempj-rature  of  tho 
.seaboard.  TluMiiterior  is  miieh  warmer,  but  on  ae«ount  of  the  dryne.ss  of  tlio 
atmosphen',  the  effect  is  not  so  enervatinjjf  to  the  .sy.stem  as  a  lower  temperature, 
on  th(!  Atlantic. 


Mean  temperature  at  sunrise  ami  noon  for  seven  years,  from  IS,")!  to  1.S."j7,  eomputed 
in  part  from  the  California  State  Iteijister  for  l.sr»!>. 


• 

SiinriHe. 

Oeg.  Fahr. 
44. 'J 

47.  H 
4'.l.  li 
M.  0 
.51.  8 

xS'oon. 

Mean  of— 

SiiiiriHO. 

Kmiii, 

Mean  of— 

Dfij.  Fahr. 

li().  0  ^ 

li."..  7  1 
.i4..-, 

Wiiit.r,  ,10. 3 
S|iriii(r,  "rl.  .'i 

,Inlv 

Dry.  Fahr. 
.VJ.  (i 
Kl.  ti 

,'i;i.  8 
r>j.  7 

411.4 
4  1.  !• 

r>i-<f.  Fnhr. 

fi9.H) 
liH.  4  1 
0-'.  0 

r..-..^j 

Fi'liniiiiy 

AiiiriLst 

Sl'llllllllHT 

Oildliff 

NhviiiiImt 

UiceiiibiT 

Averuge 

Siimniii-,  '>'.).  II 

,\livil            

Hay 

Jlllli; 

Aiit'nin,.'it'.  ;i 

4U.H 

M.:i        1     Veal.  :m.  til 

10* 


74 


COAST  PII.OT  OF  CAMFOItMA. 


Tilt'  lowest  tciiiiK'iiitiin'  cxiM-riciin'tl  ;it  Siiii  Fnnn'isco  in  flic  iiIkivc  soveil 
yciirs  wiis  LVt'^  I'iilir.,  in  .liinnary  is.'d.  In  |,s,*rj,  Vt.t, '.Vl,  the  frni|ici;itnii'  wns 
al\v;i.vsiiltitv«'  \U't'/.'\\\n,  iumI  I'lillin;,'  no  lower  tluiii  L'so  in  is,">(»;  Ki"  in  |s,",.i;  niP  in 
JS.".;  .'{P  in  lS."i7. 

The  lii;,'liest  leniiteiiilnie  wns  W^  in  Seiiteinlier  \s:,'j,  nnd  tliiit  nni.v  l»o  con- 
sidered reiniirkidtiy  lii;;li,  '.t.T'  iind  iMC^  Imvinf;  Iteen  rciielied  lint  once. 

The  niciin  tcni|)er:itnre  of  sprin;;'  is  ,"i|o,  of  Hnniincr,  r»7°,  of  iintiinin,  ri(P.  and 
of  winter.  "lO  ',  showing;-  :i  dill'erenec  of  (ndy  7°  Iiclwccn  the  iivciii;,fe  of  winter  iiinl 
HUinnicr.  There  is  a  i'an;;e  of  !P  in  the  mean  tenipcratiiie  of  the  months,  ami  the 
mean  of  the  whole  year  is  aWont  ."i^. 

The  mean  temiicratnre  at  Saeianu'nto,  latitndc  .'!.s^  .'{.'{' north,  and  lon^itndo 
I'JP 'Jll',  and  seventy  live  miles  from  the  ocean,  for  live  years'  oltservations,  is 

'file  entrance  to  San  I'rancisco  ISay  is  snp])osed  (o  have  heen  (irsi  seen  liy 
llartolonic  I'crrelo,  pilot  and  successor  to  dnaii  liodri;,'n«'z  ( 'ahriilo,  wlni,  liinninji; 
down  the  <Miast  with  a  ;;ale  stronjf  from  the  north,  on  tin-  .">d  day  of  .'Maich  ir»t;{, 
<les«'iied  what  he  supposed  to  he  tin'  inoulli  of  a  ixwat  liver,  liaviii;; every  appcar- 
anc«'  of  drainin;;'  a  larj;c  extcin  ot'ctiiniliy ;  and  stecrin;;  southeast  and  ('as)  south- 
east he  soon  after  si;;l:te(i  Point  I'iiios,  and  on  the  ."it h  the  port  in  the  island  of 
.liiaii  liodrijfuez,  wh«'re  Ciiluillo  is  supposed  to  have  died.  If  this  account  is  cor- 
rect, he  was  the  lirst  luiropean  that  lichcld  the  ('lolden  (iaie. 

Sir  I'raiicis  Drake  visited  ('alifornia,  which  he  named  New  Alhion,  in  1,"»7'), 
and  we  are  of  opinion  that  in  this  l>ay  he  overhauled  ami  repaired  his  \essel,  "it 
having'  |ileased  (lod  to  send  him  into  a  fair  and  jXiun]  l>ay,  with  a  ^ood  wind  to 
enter  the  saiiu-."  ("urionsiy  eiioujih,  we  Iind  the  statenient  that  "there  is  no  j)art 
of  the  earth  here  to  lie  taken  lip  wherein  there  is  not  some  prolialile  show  of  j;(il(l 
and  silver."  In  this  harlior  he  remained  over  a  mtuith  "  triniminj;"  his  .sliips  and 
takiii;''  po.ssession  «if  the  eoiintry. 

A  land  discovery  of  the  liay  was  made  in  17(i!>  i>y  (Jaspar  de  Portola,  who  left 
San  l)iej;<i  to  estalilish  a  .Jesuit  colony  at  .Monterey;  lint  liy  traveliiii;  alon<;-  the 
eastern  slope  of  the  Coast  monntains  he  pas.sed  Monterey,  and  towards  Ihccio.se 
of  October  came  unexpectedly  niion  the  .shores  of  a  };reat  liay,  which  they  siij)- 
jMtsed  to  be  the  Port  St.  Francisco  «if  the  old  luivi^ators.  llavinj;'  no  sniiplics  tho 
party  returned  to  San  I)ie<io. 

Vancouver  visited  the  bay  in  17!)-  and  17!).'5,  and  yives  a  {•ood  };eiieral  ma])  of 
the  entrance.  The  jiresidio  of  San  Franci.seo  was  then  ticeupi«'d  by  Spani-sh 
troops. 

The  lirst  accurate  liydrotrraphic  survey  was  made  by  Captain  Fred,  W. 
I'.ecchey,  in  the  I5lossoiii,  in  November  ISL'li,  he  carryin;;'  his  wiirk  to  the  Strait 
of  Kanpiines. 

In  Octolu'r  1S,'{7,  Captain  Sir  F^dward  Helcher  ascended  the  Sacramento  with 
the  boats  of  the  Sulphur,  and  .starting.;  from  the  "  Fork"  carried  the  survey  down 
the  ri\er  to  i;onneet  with  Beei^hey's  survey.     The  "  I-'ork  "  he  calls  Point  Victoria, 


COAST  IMI.OT  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


75 


ami  pliii'fs  ill  liitiliulc  .'5S"'  W  17".  ami  (P  17'  .H"..")  cast  of  tin'  ohscrvalory  on 
Vt'ilta  liiinia.  'I'liis  point  is  I'omikmI  Iiv  IIii- ronliiit'iicc  ot  the  h'ioil*-  las  I'liimas,  or 
FcallHT  l!iv<'r,  witli  tlic  Sanaim-iilo,  alxiiit  twenty  miles  aliuvt-  Saciaiiiciito  J'ity. 
'I'll)-  rivir,  lail  a  sliorl  ilisimin'  aliovt-  iiis  start  in;;  point,  was  t'ortlalilc,  ami  tlifnr«> 
to  its  iiioiit!i  tiavri'scil  in  its  mfaml«'riii;;s  om-  liiimlriti  ami  titty  miles.  Tlie  lieail 
ot'steaiiilioat  iiavi^^ation  is  at  l><  <!  liliill's,  in  latitude  l(P  It)'. 

The  Coast  Siirv-y  eliaits  t'liinisli  all  that  ean  lie  desired  in  re;j:ard  to  the  lower 
part  ol  the  Itay  of  San  I'ramiseo  and  adjaeeiit  waters  up  to  and  imlutlin;;'  the 
moiitlis  of  the  Saerameiito  and  San  .loatpiin  it'iv  ers. 

i)t  xm  uv   voixv  AM)   kki:k. 

From  I'oiiit  I'.oneta  to  JMixImry  roitit,  fortmn;;  the  west  side  of  ISolaiios*  Hay, 
the  eoiirse  is  west  Ity  north  oneipiaiter  iioi  I  .  and  the  distance  nine  and  one- 
([iiarter  miles.  The  point,  sometimes  called  I'oi  iiios,  is  a  talile  land  alioiit  one  hun- 
dred feet  hiyli.  whieli  stretches  alon;;  th  coast  tor  a  mile  or  iiKne,  ami  ^iiadnally 
rises  to  a  narrow,  nearly  treeless  rid;;e,  one  thousand  liiree  liiindred  and  ei;.;lity  nine 
f<  I't  hi;;h  at  its  ;;rca test  elevation,  and  riiunin;.;  in  a  strai;iht  lino  t\vcnt,\  live  and 
one-quarter  miles  mat  Invest  tpiarter  west  to  Tttmales  I'oint.  The  old  Calilbr- 
iiiaiis  e\pressi\cly  call  it  the  Ciichilla  (irandi-.  I'aiallel  to  this  ridye  on  the  east, 
and  starting;  from  the  west  end  of  the  ;;reat  cross  rid;;*'  of  Tal»le  .Moiinlaiii.  runs 
Jinother  to  tin-  northwestward,  and  the  ilepressioii  hetweeii  them  alaeast  of  Dux- 
bury  Point  forms  the  ISolanos  IJay,  as  it  does  the  Tomalcs  IJay  turtlier  up  tlie 
coast.  This  depression  forms  a  lony,  narrow  valley,  well  watei'cti  and  tinilicred, 
and  ill  many  places  cultivated.  Two  streams  riinniii;:  into  each  l»ay  have  their 
sources  nearer  the  liay  from  which  each  runs. 

Duxhiiry  reef  makes  out  one  and  one  (pia  iter  miles  southeast  oiie-(piarter  south 
from  the  southern  extn'inity  of  the  point,  ami  stretchin;;-  towards  I'oint  Honeta, 
forms  a  safe  aiicliora;;-e  in  northerly  weather.  From  the  tail  of  the  reef  to  the, 
rocky  i»oiiit  east  northeast  from  it  the  distance  is  three  mih'S,  and  from  this  line  to 
the  ;j;reatest  heiid  of  the  bay  the  distance  is  one  and  three-tpiarters  mile.  In  this 
bay  the  three  tat Iioin  line  makes  otf  three-ipiarters  of  a  mile  from  the  soiithvast 
face  of  Diixbiiry  I'oint,  but  approachin;;  the  low  sand  beach  east  of  the  narrow 
entrance  to  the  la;;'oon.  From  four  to  ei;;ht  fathoms  of  water,  with  a  rc;,'iilar  bot- 
tom of  saml  and  mud,  arc  found  in  the  bay,  and  six  fathom  >  quite  close  to  the  reef. 
From  Duxbiiry  I'oint  to  the  bliilf,  at  the  entrance  to  the  lajjoon,  the  distame  is  one 
and  oiie-((uarter  mile  luatheast  by  north. 

In  June  ISild,  tlie  British  bark  Camilla,  i'nmi  San  Francisco  to  Melbourne, 
ilrifted  in  a  dead  calm  near  Duxbury  IJeef,  and  let  ;;'o  her  anchors  in  six  fathoms. 
AVhen  she  swiuig  to  the  swell  and  ciu-reut  her  stei'U  struck,  and  she  thiuiiped  foi- 
four  hours. 

(Juito  close  to  Duxbniy  Point  the  steams1ii|)  S.  S.  Lewis  went  ashore,  Ajiril  !», 
l."^o.'5,  in  a  thick  fo;i-  and  calm,  while  rniinin;;  at  her  ordinary  speed.     She  was 


'  Ntuncd  iit'tfi-  VuIhiiiih  or  Itoliouis.  one  ol'  tlie  i»ilots  of  Vizcaino's  I'XtHMlitioii  in  Kitf.*. 


|! 


^=!l 


70  COAST  PILOT  or  CALIFOIINIA. 

bnckod  oft'  aiul  ran  asljoro  af-ain  witliiu  a  £ew  buudrod  yards  to  the  northward,  and 
vas  totally  lost  in  tin'  l)rcak('rs. 

Tn  IStiT  the  steamer  Montana  got  on  the  roeks  in  a  thiek  fog,  but  the  I'ising 
tide  relieved  her. 

The  la^i'oon  north  ol"  the  bay  is  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  and,  exeejit  small 
crooked  ehaniiels.  is  bare  at  low  tides,  and  filled  with  small  islets.  The  south  side 
of  this  lagoon  is  boiuided  by  a  long,  narrow  sand  spit,  stretehing  so  nearly  a<'ross 
it  as  to  leave  an  entranee  of  but  one  hundred  yards  wide  at  the  southwest  part  of 
it.     Only  a  few  small  vessels  run  between  this  plaee  and  Sail  Fraiw-iseo. 

The  shore  north  of  I>oneta  is  l)old  and  high,  presenting  a  niaiked  and  peculiar 
undulating  surface  at  right  angles  to  the  sea  front.  This  characteristic  is  well 
delineatctl  on  the  Coast  Survey  ma])  of  the  api>roaches  and  entrance  to  San  Fran- 
cisco l>ay. 

North  of  Duxbury  the  hard  rocky  shore  continues  bold  and  high,  but  gradu- 
ally merges  into  clitH's,  consisting  chielly  of  yellowish  clay  and  sand  resting  upon 
granite,  and.  as  the  surface  is  regularly  undulating,  with  the  direction  of  the  alter- 
nate ridges  and  valleys  at  right  angles  to  the  shore,  the  wearing  action  of  the 
surf  forms  a  continuous  series  of  round-toiiped,  bright,  vertical  blutVs,  averaging 
nearly  one  hundred  feet  high,  and  presenting  a  very  noticeable  feature  from  the 
sea.  It  sreseniblance  to  portions  of  the  coast  of  England  was  one  of  the  rea- 
sons which  iiubiced  Drake  to  apply  the  nanu;  Xew  Albion  to  the  coiuitry  in 
dune  l.")?!*. 

The  mountains  in  the  biu-k  grouml  rise  over  two  thousand  feet,  and  the 
"Tiible  ^lountain'' of  liet'chey  attains  an  elevation  of  two  thousand  six  hundred 
anil  four  feet,  stretches  nearly  two  miles  inland  at  right  angles  to  the  coast,  and 
forms  a  prominent  mark  from  seaward  and  from  tlie  JJay  of  San  I'rancisi-o.  A  few 
large  trees  are  seen  along  the  top  of  the  juaiii  ridge  running  parallel  with  the  coast 
and  behind  the  valley,  connecting  Bolanos  and  Tomales  Bays. 

Table  Mountain  is  i*  very  sharj)  ridge,  showing  Hat-topped  only  in  two  dire*  - 
tions.  From  South  Farallon  light-house  it  bears  uiutheast  half  north,  distant 
twenty-four  miles;  the  geographical  position  of  the  eastern  peak  is: 

Latitude 37  oo  30.7  north. 

Longitude 1'2'2  33  38.7  west. 

h.    m.        n. 

Or,  in  time S  10  UM. 

It  w  as  ealled  Mount  Palermo  by  the  United  States  Exploring  Exi)edition,  but 
is  known  only  by  the  name  here  used. 

]>y  the  old  ("alitbrnians  it  is  called  Tamal  Pais,  because  this  ])art  of  the 
country  was  inhabited  by  the  Timal  Indians,  who  in  ISK!  were  within  the  jurisdic- 
tion of  the  n.ission  of  San  Francisco.  The  Tamal,  Numpal,  and  Suysum  tribes 
tatooed  themselves  and  spoke  the  same  language;  tlu'  tirst  lived  in  the  northwest, 
and  the  last  two  in  the  north. 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


77 


SIR    FRANCIS    DRAKKS    HAY. 

From  tlio  tnil  of  Duxhuiy  Itfcf  to  tlio  west  cml  of  Los  IN-ycs  the  coiusr  is 
■west  tlircc-quartcrs  north,  iiiid  ilistiiiicc  scvi'iitccii  iiiid  oiictliiid  miles.  To  the 
Oiist  cml  tlif  course  is  west  I»y  north,  distiince  fourteen  ami  two  thirds  miU's. 
From  Duxltiirv  the  shore  is  lioM  and  compact,  runninfi'  nearly  northwc  st  l>y  west 
for  altoiit  ten  miles,  then  ciirvinj;'  rcf;iilarly  to  tlie  westward,  clian^in^-  to  a  low 
shore,  niitil  it  readies  its  "greatest  hititude  at  the  l-'stero  de  Limantour,  which 
Itears  north  Ity  east  lialf  east  from  tlie  east  end  of  Los  l{eycs,  distant  thieo 
miles;  thence  the  line  curves  to  tlic  southward  and  soutliwest,  one  mile  west  of 
the  i»oint,  leaving'  a  loajr,  lii^i'h,  narrow  point  stretchinij;'  to  the  cast,  and  olf  which 
tlie  breakers  extend  half  a  mile.  This  curvinji'  shore-line  forms  Sir  Francis  Diake's 
Uay,  which  atfords  a  lar^i'c  and  admirable  anchoraj;e  in  heavy  northwest  weather; 
and  l»y  anchorinj;"  close  in  under  the  north  side  of  the  point,  in  four  or  live  fathoms, 
liard  bottom,  •••tMid  but  contracted  anchora^ie  is  obtained  in  southeast  ;;ales,  as  the 
swell  rollinj;'  in  from  the  southwest  is  broken  by  the  reef. 

The  seconthiry  astronomical  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  wa,s  on  the  north  side, 
of  the  first  small  g'ldly.  tivcei^htlis  of  a  mile  from  the  eastern  end  of  the  head, 
and  about  forty  feet  above  the  water.     Its  geographical  position  is: 

Latitmle .'$7  .".{>  ;jr).0  north. 

Longitude 1-2  ,">7  .']().l  w est. 

h.     IK.         s. 

Or,  in  time S  11   -,{). i. 

The  computed  magnetic  variation  in  .Iidy  ISdO,  was  1.")^  ."iS'  east,  and  its  pres- 
ent yearly  increase  1'. 

Several  esteros  or  lagoons  open  into  the  north  side  of  the  Itay,  but  their 
entrances  are  very  narrow  and  shoal.  The  largest  is  the  Drake's  Kstero,  which 
stretches  to  the  northward  over  three  miles,  and  one  of  its  numerous  arms 
ai)proaclu's  within  a  mile  of  the  ocean  beach,  live  miles  north  of  I'oiiit  Ke\es 
Head.  The  entrance  to  this  lagoon  lias  eight  feet  of  water,  and  is  generally 
marked  by  breakers  on  either  luiud.  Coasters  can  enter  with  the  prevailing  mntli- 
west  wind. 

Drake's  Bay  if  tlie  Port  Francisco  of  the  Spaniards,  of  almut  l.">!).">.  It  was 
certainly  known  before  the  time  of  Vizcaino,  who,  having  separated  from  his  ten- 
der, sought  her  in  Tort  Francisco,  and,  according  to  Veiiega's  account,  "to  see  if 
anything  was  to  be  found  of  the  San  Augustine,  which,  in  the  year  Lj!)."),  had,  by 
order  of  his  nuijesty  and  the  viceroy,  been  sent  from  the  I'hilippines  by  the  gover- 
nor to  survey  the  coast  of  Calilbrnia,  under  the  direction  of  Sebastian  liodiigiiez 
Cerine|-|on,  a  pilot  of  known  abilities,  but  was  driven  ashore  in  this  harbor  by  the 
viole;'><'e  of  the  wind;  iiml  among  others  on  board  the  San  Augustine  was  the  pilot 
Francisco  Volanos,  who  was  also  chief  pilot  of  the  s(iuadr(»n.*'  This  pilot  recog- 
nized the  bay  as  being  tiiat  where  he  was  wrecked. 


--  _.)> 


78 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFOENIA. 


POINT   KEYKS. 


ri" 


i, 


Tliis  is  the  most  i>roiiiiiioiit  and  rciiiiirkahle  hoiullaiul  north  of  Point  Concop- 
rion.  It  is  distinctly  visihli>  from  tlio  entrance  to  San  Francisco  Hay,  and  tlic  snm- 
mit  of  the  ridj^c  jircscats  an  iri'('j;nlar  jafijicd  ontlinc,  witli  the  liij;lu'st  part  abont 
onclourth  of  its  Icnj^tli  from  the  western  extrennty.  Its  sontiiern  face  is  a  precip- 
itous wall  of  iiard  sicnitic  p-anite,  risinjf  boldly  from  the  ocean,  attaining  an  eleva- 
tion of  live  liundied  and  ninety-seven  feet  in  three  hnndred  yards,  and  stretcliinf? 
nearly  in  a  straight  line  east  by  north  and  west  by  south  for  throe  miles.  Tins 
direction  is  peculiar  on  the  coast,  and  would  not  be  exjx'cted  from  a  consideration 
of  the  trend  of  the  coast  mountains  and  of  the  Farallones,  which  are  in  line  iu)rth- 
west  and  southeast.  On  the  north  side  the  cape  falls  away  regularly  to  a  low 
undulating  neck  of  land,  cut  ui>  by  estcros  making  in  from  J)rake's  IJay.  AVhen 
juade  from  tlu' southward  it  is  raised  as  a  hmg,  high  island ;  but  on  api)roaching 
it  from  the  westward  it  is  projected  njton  the  mountains  running  north  from  Table 
3Iouiitain,  and  its  characteristics  are  not  so  readily  recognized.  Its  base  is  very 
broken  and  rocl<y,  and  bordered  by  crags  and  hundreds  of  rocks,  but  may  be 
boldly  a])proached,  and  eight  fathoms,  hard  l>ott(>m,  (tbtained  within  less  than  a 
quarter  of  a  mile.  Fifteen  miles  west  southwest  from  the  head  a  dei)tli  of  sixty- 
one  fathoms,  grey  sand  with  white  and  black  specs,  with  deei)er  Avater  (sixty-six 
fathoms)  inside,  and  sixty  fathoms,  soft  green  mud,  nine  miles  off  the  hea<l. 
Thenci'  it  gradually  decreases  to  thirty  fathoms,  line  green  mud,  about  tW(»  and  a 
half  miles  otf  the  head.  Olf  the  eastern  extren..iy  a  reef  makes  out  half  a  mile  in 
continuation  of  the  jtoint.  Upon  this  reef  it  breaks  heavily  in  bad  southerly 
weather,  but  nine  fathoms  can  be  had  close  to  the  breakers.  Off  the  westeru 
head  a  depth  of  twelve  fathoms  is  found  ((uitenearto  the  rocks. 

Vessels  bound  to  San  Francisco  fiom  the  northward  always  nmke  Point 
Heyes,  and,  when  up  to  it,  sight  two  mountains  on  the  southern  peninsula  of  San 
I'lanci^co  as  islands.  One  of  those  is  Illue  .Mountain,  one  thousand  one  hundred 
feet  high,  and  the  other.  Abbey  Hill,  one  thousand  two  huiulred  and  fifty  feet. 

In  IS.VJ,  an  ollicer  of  the  Coast  Survey,  while  occupying  the  station  on  Point 
Reyes  Hill,  oim  thousand  three  hundred  and  eighty-nine  foot  high,  and  eight  and 
three-fifths  miles  northeast  half  north  from  Point  Keyes  Head,  observed,  during  a 
])erfect  calm,  a  bark  having  no  steerage  way,  and  turning  round  several  times, 
drift  to  the  northward  past  Point  Peyes  Head,  at  the  rate  of  one  mile  per  hour. 
She  was  two  miles  to  the  westward  of  the  head.  On  this  and  subsequent  occa- 
sions we  noticed  the  (liscolored  water  of  the  Sacramento  from  San  I'rancisco  Pay 
close  in  shcne,  and  extondiiig  to  the  northward  of  tlu^  head  several  miles.  Dif- 
ferent degrees  of  discoloration,  as  of  successive  ebb  tides,  were  plainly  umrked. 

The  magnetic  variation  computed  for  July  LStiO,  was  15°  58'  east,  with  a  pres- 
ent yoaily  increase  of  1'. 

There  is  no  light  house  upon  Point  IJeyes. 

The  Jlritisli  Admiralty  Ciiart  of  the  Pacilic  Coast  No.  24(»1,  with  correctitiUH  to 


.•>f 


-'I 


) 


I 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFOPvyTA. 


79 


]\riircl»  ISfi."*,  has  a  li}>:lit  on  Point  TJoyos,  iJiiiikcd  Lt.  Fl.  (llnsliin};  li^-lit.)  Tlio  Tins- 
siiiii  corvi'ttc  Novi<!k  Wiis  wrecked  two  miles  nuitli  of  Point  Keves  some  yenra 
since,  liavinjr  'won  misled  l>y  an  Kn;;lish  clnut  witii  a  lijulit  marked  on  tliis  head. 

This  headland  was  discovered  hy  Calnillo  in  l'>i-,  and  jdaeed  l»y  him  ahont 
tliei  hititnde  of  4(P  ;  hut  hy  a^jtlyinj;-  the  conection  P  .")(»',  ohtained  from  his  erro- 
neons  latitndis  of  San  l)iej;o,  Point  Concepcion,  (Cape  (Jalera,)  aiul  I'linta  (iorihi, 
(San  Martin,)  the  latitude  of  40°  becomes  .JS'^  10',  which  i;  "itiiin  ten  miles  of  the 
latitude  of  Los  Ueyes.  We  believe  he  called  it  Cabo  Mendozino,  in  honor  of  tlie 
viceroy  of  Mexico,  who  disi>at(thed  him  ;  but  this  naiiu'  was  ai)plied  to  even  ca]»e, 
first  made  by  the  Spanish  ••alleons  on  the  passage  IVoju  the  Philippines  to  La 
Natividad,  New  Spain.  In  this  rej;ion  Cabrillo  found  the  mountains  covered  with 
snow.     There  can  be  but  little  doubt  that  he  also  saw  the  Faralloiies. 

The  present  name  was  given  by  Vi/caino,  who  anchored  under  the  head  in 
January  KUKi,  whilst  .seajching  for  the  wreck  of  the  San  Augut;tiiie. 


SOUTH  FARALLON. 

The  southern  and  principal  one  of  the  six  rocky  islets,  known  as  the  Farallones 
de  los  Frayles,  lies  oil"  the  (Jolden  (Jate  at  a  distam-e  of  twenty-three  and  a  half 
miles;  the  whole  }j;roup  is  disposed  in  a  nearly  straij;ht  line  running-  northwest 
from  the  southern  oue.  This  is  the  largest  and  highest,  extending  nearly  a  mile 
east  and  west,  attaining  an  elevation  of  about  three  hundred  and  forty  feet  abov(^ 
the  sea,  and  presenting  to  the  eye  a  mass  of  broken.  Jagged  rocks,  u[»on  whicii  uo 
vegetation  exists,  except  a  few  stunted  we.ds.  The  rocks  are  sharii,  iuigular 
nuisses,  which,  becoming  detached  by  the  operations  of  natural  causes,  loll  down 
upon  the  more  level  parts  of  the  islet  and  cover  it  with  irregidar  boulders.  Not- 
withstanding that  it  is  the  ontcroi*  of  an  immense  dike  of  gianite,  the  condition 
of  the  superficial  {tortion  is  such  that  it  could  be  se[)aratcd  into  small  fragments 
hy  a  pick  or  crowbar.  A  more  desolate  ami  barren  place  can  hardly  be  imagined. 
From  the  hills  about  the  (Jolden  CJate  the  South  Farallon  is  plainly  visible,  risiiijf 
ill  regular  pyraiuidal  form. 

>  Cvssels  from  the  westward,  running  for  the  Golden  (iate,  should  keep  to  the 
southward  of  the  South  Farallon,  especially  in  thick  weather  ami  at  night.  To 
the  westward  of  it  a  (U'i»th  of  lifty  fathoms  is  obtained  at  a  distance  of  three  ndles, 
shoaling  to  twenty  fathoms  iu  two  miles;  whereas,  inside  of  it,  the  bottom  is  very 
regular  at  thirty  fathoms  for  ten  miles,  and  then  decreases  regularly  to  the  bar. 
On  the  southeast  side  of  the  island  there  is  said  to  be  good  holding-ground  in  fif- 
teen fathoms. 

A  rock  is  rep(nted  to  exist  about  halfway  between  the  South  and  Middle 
Farallon,  a  break  having  been  seen  about  that  position  by  pilots  and  by  the  ii;.  iit- 
house  keeper.  It  is  supposed  to  bo  a  bayoiu't  roek  with  about  four  la  thorns 
ui)on  it. 

The  Sau  Francisco  pilot-boats  cruise  ofl' the  island. 


!  1 


^1 


^        i 


80  COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFOUNIA. 

An  oxtondcd  and  detailed  oxainination  around  the  island  has  boon  |nd)lisliod 
upon  tlie  {jeneral  coast  eliait  i»nl)Iislied  l»y  the  Coast  Survey. 

Tides, — Tiie  eorreeted  estaltlishniciit,  or  mean  interval  between  the  time  of 
the  moon's  transit  and  the  time  of  hij^li  water,  is  10//.  Mm.,  and  the  dilVerenee 
between  the  ;jreatest  and  least  intervals  l/i.  lt!;«.  The  mean  rise  and  tail  of  tides 
is  3.0  feet;  of  sprint;  tides,  -t.t  feet:  and  of  neap  tides,  2.6  feet.  Tlie  mean  dura- 
tion of  the  llooil  is  G/(.  18h».,  and  of  the  ebb  <J/j.  iV.Un. 

To  find  the  times  of  hij;h  and  low  waters,  first  eomi»nte  thorn  for  San  Fran- 
cisco, and  from  the  numbers  thus  obtained  subtract  lit.  2'Jiit.  for  the  South 
Farallon. 

The  ship  Lucas  was  wrecked  on  this  islet  iu  ii  foy  November  9,  1858,  and 
twenty-three  lives  were  lost. 

SOUTH  FAKALLON  LIGHT. 

The  tower  stands  on  the  hijihest  peak  of  the  island.  It  is  built  of  brick,  sev- 
enteen feet  in  hei;;ht,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  lantern  and  illuminatinj;'  apparatus 
of  the  first  order  of  the  system  of  Fresnel.  If  is  a  rerolriiuj  white  lit/lit,  sitoiriiiff  a 
inolomjed  fash  of  ten  seconds  crery  minute  thi'ou;^h(/Ut  the  Inn-izon.  Tlie  tinn,'  of 
the  flash  varies  on  ditlerent  nij,'lits.  In  l.sr»!)  we  found  the  averaj^c*  tinu^  thirteen 
seconds.  It  is  about  three  hundred  and  sixty  feet  above  tlie  mean  level  of  tlic 
sea,  and  should  be  visible,  iu  a  favorable  state  jf  the  atmosi»here,  from  a  height 
of— 

10  feet  at  a  distance  of  25.4  miles. 

20  feet  at  a  <listance  of  20.0  miles. 

30  feet  at  a  distance  of  28.1  miles. 

GO  feet  at  a  distance  of  30.7  miles. 

At  near  distances,  under  favorable  circumstances,  the  liftht  will  not  wholly 
disaitpear  between  the  intervals  of  t;reatest  brij^htness.  It  is  plainly  visible  from 
Suljtiiur  Peak,  distant  (M.4  miles,  and  three  thousand  four  hundred  and  seventy- 
one  feet  above  the  sea. 

The  geographical  position  of  the  light-house,  as  given  by  the  Coast  Sur- 
vey, is: 

Latitude 37   11  48.8  north. 

Longitude 122  50  0.").2  west. 

h.   m.      «. 
Or,  in  time 8  11  .50.3. 

IVIagnetic  variation  VP  40'  east,  in  1857,  witii  a  yearly  increase  of  1'. 

Tlie  bearings  and  distances  of  prominent  objects  from  it  are  : 

North  Farallon,  northwest  by  west  three-quarters  west,  six  and  three-fifths 
miles.  , 

Western  head  of  Los  Reyes,  north  by  west  two-thirds  west,  seventeen  and 
thrce-qnarters  miles. 


s  1)0011  piiblisliod 


ber  9,  ISoS,  and 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALlFOliXIA, 


81 


Pniiit  Boiiotii  li};ht-liouso,  iiorthoast  by  oast,  twonty-three  and  a  lialfiiiiloH. 

Toiiit  Siiii  Pedro,  oast,  twoiity  tliroo  and  a  hall"  iiiilos. 

l-'roiii  abioast  Fort  I'oiiit  tlic  lij;hl  is  just  visible  above  the  horizon. 

FoaWniSTLE   ON    TIIK    SOI  Til  TAUALLON. 

In  January  l.S.">!»,  a  lofj-wiiistlo,  of  six  iiuOu's  in  dianiotor,  was  ])la('od  on  the 
south  sido  of  tho  oastorn  part  of  tho  ishiiul,  about  two  liuinh'od  and  sovonty-fivo 
ftset  from  the  water.  It  is  erected  over  a  natural  hole,  in  the  roof  of  a  siU>torra- 
nean  passajio,  connected  with  ami  open  to  the  ocean,  and  is  blown  by  the  rush  of 
air  tlirouj^h  the  passajjo,  oausod  l»y  the  soa  broakinjj;  into  its  mouth.  Tin'  sound 
should  1(0  hoard  in  tho  viciinty  at  all  times,  (its  loudness  dopendiiij,'  ui)on  the 
lioi^'ht  of  tlu'  tide  and  the  waves,)  except  about  an  hour  and  a  half  before  and 
after  low  water,  wiien  the  soa  does  not  enf«>r  the  numth  of  the  passage.  It  is  said 
to  have  been  heard  at  a  distance  of  seven  or  eif-ht  miles. 


e  Coast  Sur- 


TIIE  MIDDLE  FARALLON. 

This  is  a  single  rock,  between  fifty  and  sixty  yards  in  diameter,  and  risinj"- 
twenty  or  thirty  foot  above  the  water.  It  lies  northwest  by  west,  distant  two  and 
a  (piarter  miles  fr(»m  tho  lighthouse  on  tho  .South  Farallon.  Its  ;;-ooj;raphical  i»osi- 
tiou  is  latitude  61°  43'  31".G  north,  and  lon{,'itudo,  V2l\o  (U)'  54".'J  west, 

THE  Nonrn  faiiallones. 

Those  lie  nearly  in  lino  with  each  other  ami  the  Middle  ami  South  Farallonos, 
and  consist  of  a  j;Toup  of  four  islets,  haviiif^  a  i)yranii(hd  appearance  as  their  nainc^ 
donottw,  and  comprised  within  a  space  of  little  more  tlian  half  a  mil(^  s(iuaio. 
Tho  northern  throe  are  »iuito  hi^ih  and  bold,  tht^  hij;host  peak  of  tho  middle  one 
attainiu}^-  an  elevation  of  one  hundred  and  sixty  six  feet,  whilst  the  southern  one 
of  the  jjroup  is  a  more  rock  of  about  thirty-five  yards  in  diameter,  and  hardly 
twenty  feet  above  water.  Viewed  froui  the  southwest  (u-  ncuthoast,  breakers 
extend  across  t'unn  the  lar<^ost  islet  to  tho  next  one  southeast,  and  durin<;-  a  heavy 
{;:round  swell  we  have  watched  it  from  Point  Koyos  Hill  breakinjj-  on  an  isolated 
sunken  rock  lyin^  apparently  between  tho  northern  and  larf^'ost  islet.  From  cer- 
tain directions  a  snuill  pyramidal  detached  peak  shows  close  to  the  north  side  of 
the  northern  islet. 

The  geo}>raphical  iiositions  and  extents  of  the  islets  are  as  follows  : 


Lntitiiilp. 

c       1       n 

T,    t(i  in.ll  iKirlli. 
37  45  .VJ.!)  irnitli. 
37  4,-.  ■{■>.  i)  iidith. 
37  4.")  II.  H  i!')illi. 

IjUii;jitailp. 

Exli'lit. 

XitrtlnTii  Iwlct     

IJ3  115  a'l.  1   w.'Ht. 
1-J3  04  5!l.  H  wcHt. 
i-,':t  114  53.  fi  west. 
l'J3  (II  41.  ft  w.'.st. 

IfiU 

MiiliUi'  Isl.t 

SimllH'iii  Inlc't 

Kiwk  oft'  lust 

1K5 
35 

11* 


82 


COAST  I'lLOT  OP  CALIFORNIA. 


! 
I 


t 


The  nortliprn  islet,  thoret'oro,  hoars  north  fi4<^  w<!st.  distiuit  six  nnd  thrco- 
flfths  miles  from  tlio  li<;-|  it  house  on  the  Soiitli  Fariilloii.  From  the  lighthouse  site 
of  I'linta  (h'  los  Reyes  it  hears  soiitli.  distant  tonrteen  miles. 

The  Nooiitlay  U(M'k,  with  three  and  a  hall'  lathonis  ol"  water  upon  it,  lies 
M'est  hy  north,  distant  three  miles  t'vom  the  Xorth  Karallones,  with  interven- 
infi;  ro<'ky  hottom  in  thirty-five  tatluMiis.  Between  them  and  Los  Keyes  the  depth 
increases  to  lifty  fathoms  aitont  midway. 

The  Farallones  de  los  Frayles  were  discovered  by  Ferrelo  in  February  1;")43, 
and  he  is  stated  to  have  seen  six  islands  in  this  vit-inity,  one  lar;;e  and  live  very 
small,  which  Cabrillo  had  jtassed  on  the  jirevioas  voya}je.  lie  states  that  for  live 
days  it  was  iniiiossible  to  ettect  a  landing'  upon  them  on  a<'coiint  of  the  southwest 
winds  and  heavy  sea. 

Sir  Francis  Drake  is  the  first  that  sjiecially  mentions  them,  in  1570,  as  lyiiiff 
ott"  the  harlior  or  bay  wliere  he  relitted  his  ships,  lie  calls  them  the  islands  of 
St.  .James. 

Aiioiit  177.")  they  received  their  jiresent  name,  after  the  voyajjes  of  IJodefia  and 
Maiiulie,  uiich'r  the  orders  of  Hailio  Frayle  Don  Antonio  Ibicarolli  y  Visera.  In 
some  recent  mai»s  they  are  omitted. 

NOONDAY  KOCK. 

This  danger  lies  nearly  on  the  i)roloii<iation  of  the  line  from  the  Soiiili  Faral- 
lon,  throiijih  the  North  Farrallones.  It  is  of  very  limited  extent,  and  is,  doubtless, 
a  sharp  isolated  jtoiiit  of  a  small  ledge,  having  from  iweiity  to  thirty  fathoms  im- 
mediately around  it.  It  is  plainly  visible  when  directly  over  it,  and  has  three  and 
a  half  fathoms  of  water  upon  it  at  mean  low  water;  but  at  the  extreme  low  water 
of  sjiring  tides  there  will  lie  hardly  more  than  three  fathoms.  In  very  heavy 
weather  and  low  water  the  sea  bi.'aks  upon  it,  but  this  indication  seldom  exists,  and 
must  not  be  depended  upon  for  ascertaining  its  position. 

From  it  the  following  bearings  will  show  its  relation  to  other  well-marked  and 
determiiied  points : 

Punta  de  los  Reyes,  western  head,  north  by  east  one-quarter  east,  distant 
13.8  miles. 

North  Farallon,  east  by  south,  distant  3.1  miles. 

South  Farallon  light-house,  east  by  south  three-quarters  south,  distant  9.7 
miles. 

Point  Boneta  light-house,  east  by  north  five-eighths  north,  distant  30.3  miles. 

Boneta  light  will  not  be  visible  from  a  ship's  deck,  but  may  be  seen  from  aloft, 
wnder  very  favorable  atmosiiheric  eircumstances. 

The  geographical  position  of  this  rock  is — 

Latitude 37  47.2  north. 

Longitude 123  08.7  west. 

Sometimes  in  clear  weather,  oft"  Point  Reyes  Head,  a  high  white  cone  appears 


mf  six  ma  fliroo- 
''<'  li«lit.ii„„.sc  site 


■•■Iter  ii|)()M  if,  ij,.^ 

<'S  wifli  iiUcivcii- 

li«'.Vf.s  tlic  ,l,.,,th 

»  Fcbniiiiy  1543, 
'tie  and  ii\,.  v(.,y 

"f<'N    tllilf  toy  five, 

i>f  tlie  southwj'isfc 

i'l   1570,  l,s  Iy,„^, 
»   tlic   i.sIillMls  of 

■sofI{«,]<.y,,  ,„„, 
"i  y  Viscra.     lu 


«  SoiiiJi  Faral- 
'<!  i«,  <loubtI<'.s.s 
iy  ftitlionis  ill), 
hijs  tlircc  and 
«'ine  I«nv  Maf(.,- 
fJi  ACiy  Jioavy 
lorn  exists,  and 

11 -niarkod  and 

east,  distant 


>  distant  9.7 

t  SO.,*]  mi  Jos, 
11  fioni  aloft, 


4 


"it 


Vli'w  linn:  N,„,i„l.-,v  H.,,.1,    N,,,-l,  K,.i-, 


Pt.Rcve. 


Vii-w  li,,tii  N.).>n,|HvI(.>i.k    I't  F 


'7.2  nortli. 

**.7  AVt'St. 

Olio  ap])eai-s 


in 


4 


"•"  "■'■''^'^p^Wl^^l^^flU^ 


•mwm^"'      '  mr^mi»mmm     is' 


V'.inv  (•■.11.  Ni.i.n.Irn-  H  ..  k     N.,itli   F.ii  ill ^  l..'iuiiiv!  ''■  l-v  >   .li-<i;iiit   .-.  mil 


6S*^^»^ 


y.l.'i:   'I.>1mii« 


\'ii-w  tV.,tii   N.,.,ii,lnv  U,.,k     I'f  D.'vs  l,.-,iritij;  .S  l.v  K. ;  !',  HiHtMin  U  mil.-!' 


'M 


COAST  PILOT  OK  CAMFOKNIA. 


h:j 


in  tlio  buck  ki'oiiimI.  Tliis  is  Mount  Ilt'lciiii,  wliicli  Imshs  iimtli  bynist  fifty  (•i;'lit 
HMil  ii  liiiir  iiiili-s  ilistiint,  iiiitl  is  luiir  tlioiisiiiMl  tlii'<>«'  liiiiiilriMl  aiitl  t'oit.v  tlircr  I'trt 
lii^ili.     It  is,  lnt\v»'\t'r,  too  tlisl;iiil  to  lie  \isiiilc,  cxicpt  in  clciir  wt'iitlicr. 

In  tiic  ilfscri|ilion  ot'tiir  South  I'liriiilon,  mimI  in  thf  (lircnions  tor  iipiuoiuliin;; 
S;in  FiiMicisco,  \v«'  liavi'  licrctot'orc  iidviscd  vt'sscls  tipprorliiuji;  tin*  (ioldru  (Iiitc  at 
iii;jlit  and  in  tliick  wfathiT  to  kiM-p  to  tlit-  soutinvard  of  tin-  Soutli  Farailon  li^^lit. 
This  advict' has  now  nion*  si;;nitican('(>,  and  slntuhl  lit'  roihtwi-d.  Witli  I'unta  iUt 
I(»s  licyi's  ami  tin'  l''aiiilloncs  in  si;;lit,  vessels  boiuid  in  and  innnin;;  between  tlieni 
Hliould  keep  the  western  liead  of  Los  Iteyes  open  on  a  north  northeast  eonrse, 
eoniin;,'  noihi'i};  to  the  eastward,  until  the  North  and  South  Farallones  are  in  ran;:e, 
then  bear  away  tor  theOolden  (iate.  In  that  position  the  roek  will  bear  southeast, 
distant  two  and  a  third  miles.  ('omiii<;  from  tho  northwestward  at  nij^ht,  vessels 
should  not  brin^the  Soutli  Karallon  li;;ht  to  bear  anytliin;;  east  of  southeast  by 
east,  which  will  clear  tin*  rock  by  two  miles,  ami  the  North  Iwirallones  by  one  mile. 

Southwest  of  the  line  jiassiiif'-  throuH;h  the  Farallones  and  Noonday  Ifock,  the 
one-hundred-fathom  curve  is  only  four  miles  distant,  .iiid  the  lifty fathom  curve 
only  two  miles,  with  very  irre^iular  bottom. 

The  existence  of  this  ledjjc  \\  is  first  made  known  by  Assistant  (leorjje  David- 
son, of  the  Coast  Survey,  in  April  JStlO,  it  haxiajf  been  diseo\-ered  by  Captain 
(Jeoinc  Simptwii  on  the  l.'ith  of  .March.  '  lie  \\eather  was  calm,  and  the  pilot-boat, 
driftinj*'  with  the  current,  was  tishinj;'  olf  th<'  Noith  Karallones  in  forty  fathoms 
watei'.  Suddenly  the  line  slackened,  and  the  depth  rajiidly  decreased  to  ten,  and 
finally  to  nine  fathoms,  when  it  iii"reased  a;;aiii  to  the  lirst  depth.  No  «»tlicr  ex- 
amination was  made,  as  the  boardin;i  boat  was  lisliin;,'  some  miles  distant.  The 
North  Farallones  bore  cast  by  south  at  an  estimated  distance  of  five  miles;  the 
sinj;le  shore  ran;;!'  tak«'n  was  unavailable  for  jilottin;;. 

On  the  l.'d  of  .lanuary  ISti.'!,  the  clipper  shiji  Noonday,  drawing;'  twenty-one  feet 
of  water,  struck  twice  upon  the  isolated  rock  formin}f  the  ain'X  of  the  ledj^e;  passed 
over  it,  and  within  an  hour  sunk  in  forty  fathoms  of  water.  At  the  time  of  her 
.strikin;'  the  weather  wa.s  clear,  sea  smooth,  but  with  a  very  lieavy  swell  from  the 
northwest,  and  the  wind  from  the  northwest  carryhiff  her  towards  the  (ioldeu 
(late,  about  nine  or  ten  knots  an  hour,  with  everytliin;;'  set.  The  tide  was  three 
hours  jiast  the  Iiij,'lier  hijili  water  of  the  day,  and  .'5.1  feet  above  the  ]>lane  of  refer- 
ence, which  is  the  mean  of  the  lower  low  waters.  Tlieheij;lit  of  the  lii<;her  lii;,'li  water 
of  that  <^;'y  was  sli;>htly  };:reater  than  the  averajic  «)f  the  higher  liis'h  waters.  She 
reported  J,]>o  roek  eiylit  miles  from  the  North  Farallones,  which  bore  east  by  south 
half  .south. 

On  the  29th  of  January  the  position  of  this  datifjor  was  first  accurately  de- 
termined by  the  Coast  Survey,  and  notice  thereof  immediately  published. 


V    TULA  SIIOAL,  OFF  SAN  FRAXCI.SCO  EMTUANOE. 

In  January  1'  ,;J,  Cajitain  Bearsly,  of  the  ship  Vistula,  re])orted  that  he  had 
discovered  a  slioal  about  eighty  miles  south-southwest  from  the  Southeast  Farallon. 


.'  ',1 


ii 


I     :^ 


\> 


l! 


,;   r 


84 


COAST  riLOT  OF  CALIFOKXIA. 


It  is  sJiid  fo  liiivc  Itiit  iroin  five  to  seven  fiitlionis  of  water  iiiion  it,  and  lies  directly 
in  tlie  traek  ol"  vessels  bound  into  San  Franeiseo.  Its  approximate  <;eo^Tapliiea! 
])ositi()n  fi'oiu  the  above  data  is — 

O         ' 

;!()   IJ  north. 


Tiatitude. . 
Longitude 


iL't  10  west. 


FAL^HOUTII   SHOAL,  IN   THK   PACIFIC,  OFF  THE   CALIFOUNIA  CIOAST. 

In  latitiule  .">7o  lM'  north,  and  lon.uitu(h'  l.'JT^  '.W  west,  I'oeks  are  reported  hav- 
ing- but  iVoni  thiee  to  five  fathonis  of  water  upon  tiieni.  This  information  was 
obtained  in  IS,").'!,  and  failing-  to  ascertain  anything  more  definite  concerning  it,  was 
])id»lished  in  the  last  edition  of  the  Coast  Pilot  >»  call  attention  and  invite  further 
examination.  In  tiie  admiralty  chart,  corrected  to  1S<i.j,  the  Heed  I'ocks  are 
niariced  -(hyubtfur"  in  latitmh'  :\',^  L'il',  longitinle  i;!7^  L't'.  The  Cnited  States  ship 
Falmouth  discovcre<l  a  rock  with  from  tiiree  to  live  fatiioms  of  water  njion  it,  in 
latitndf  .'»7°  -'-',  longitude  V.)l°  I'.V.  Tiie  latest  information  is  from  Cai)tain  Ked- 
fleld  of  the  whaling  biig  Susan  Abigail.  He  reports  dangerous  rocks  n«'arly  awash 
about  six  hundred  and  sixty  miles  nearly  west  by  south  tliree-«Mg'  ths  s(»nth  from 
the  South  Fai'.dlon  light.  Tiieir  ])osition,  as  th'teriuined  by  observation  under 
favorable  circumstances,  is  in  latitude  'M^  .'{."»',  and  longitude  l.')7°  .'>(l'.  The 
larger  rock  he  judged  to  be  about  lil'ty  feet  bioad  and  one  hundied  and  fifty  feet 
long,  and  to  have  alunit  ten  feet  of  water  ujion  it.  South-southeast  from  this  rock, 
at  the  distance  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  he  saw  a  discoloration  of  the  water,  making 
it  ])robal>le  that  another  and  smaller  rock  existed  in  that  vicinity. 

It  is  evident  that  a  dangerous  reef  exists  in  this  locality,  and  that  all  the  ob- 
servations refer  to  it. 

POINT   T0:MALES   and   TOMALES  HAY. 

Northward  of  Punta  de  los  IJeyes  we  liml  a  long  reach  of  broad  white  sand- 
beach,  backed  by  sand  dunes,  and  extending  in  a  north  oiu'-third  east  direction 
about  ten  miles;  then  curving  to  the  northwest,  and  changing  to  a  high  precipitous 
coast  running  to  Poiid  Tomales,  Avhich  bears  north  by  west  lifteeu  miles  from  Los 
Keye«.  Three-<i\uirters  of  a  mile  before  reaching  the  i)oint  a  I'ocky  islet  eighty 
feet  in  height  is  seen  close  in  shore.  Seven  ami  a  half  ndles  above  Point  lieyes  is 
the  opening  to  Abbot's  LagiHUi  or  Kstero,  the  north  point  of  which  is  low  and 
sandy.  The  v,  i(h'r  arm  runs  one  mile  towards  the  head  of  the  western  branch  of 
the  Kstero  de  Linnintour,  and  little  more  than  that  distance  from  it.  The  other 
arm  runs  lu'arly  a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  noi'theastwai'd.  The  ridge  forming  To- 
males Point  and  the  western  shore  of  Tomales  IJay  is  the  northern  extremity  of  that 
starting  from  Duxbnry  Point.  About  four  and  a  quarter  miles  from  the  point  tlm 
ridge  is  six  hundred  an<l  seventy  three  feet  high,  with  slightly  lower  ground  a  i\'\v 
miles  south.  It  is  where  the  sand  dunes  strike  this  ri<Ige  that  the  coast  changes 
its  character ;  thence  to  the  point  it   is  bold  and   locky,  with  breakers  about  one- 


^^^M 


COAST  riLOT  OF  CALIFOliXIA. 


Iiat  all  )h('ol»- 


tliii'<1  of  a  milo  oft' tlio  po'iut,  and  on  the  iJioloiijratioii  of  the  rid^io,  wliicli  avora;;os 
less  than  tlircoqiiartcrs  (»f  a  mile  in  bn'adtli  fur  the  last  fonr  niilt-s.  Tliiitccn 
miles  Itroad  olf  the  hoacli,  bi'twccn  Points  IJcycs  and  Toinalcs,  flic  depth  of  water 
is  sixty  fathoms,  soft  j;reen  iiind,  j;ra<liially  deereasinj;'  to  thirty  fatht>nis.  same 
bottom  two  )niles  off  shore.  Fourteen  miles  west-southwest  of  Tomales  Point  the 
(h'lith  is  seventy  fathoms,  tine  j;ieen  sand  and  mud,  with  thirty  fathoms  yreen 
mud  two  miles  otf  the  point. 

Tim  l>ay  of  Tomales  extends  from  Tomales  Point  southeast  tliroe-quartevs 
east  for  twelve  and  a  half  miles,  with  an  average  width  of  seven-eij^liths  of  a  mile. 
The  entrance  is  narrow,  and  ohstrueted  l»y  a  bar  Inivinji'  a  depth  of  ten  feet,  be- 
tween sandy  lumps  «»f  seven  feet.  Tlu-  bar  lies  nearly  half  a  mile  east  of  the 
extreme  point,  and  fou!' hundreil  yards  from  the  blutls.  It  is  ex|)osed  to  the  full 
force  of  the  northwest  swell,  and  with  the  least  swell  from  seaward  it  breaks  aci'oss 
the  whole  entrance.  For  two  or  three  miles  this  bay  is  contracted,  but  has  a  nar- 
row, deep  channel  clos"  under  the  westc  rn  shore.  Four  miles  within  the  ]>oint  lies 
a  small  island  near  the  mi»hlle  of  the  bay;  beyond  it  the  depth  of  water  beeonu's 
more  re;;ular.  Its  shores  are  beconuns"  thickly  settled,  and  trade  in  a^iiienltural 
products  has  increased  so  much  that  a  snndl  steamer  has  been  put  upon  the  route 
to  San  Francisco. 

In  ISoli  the  ship  Oxford,  after  getting'  on  the  rocks  outside  of  Tomales  IJidjie, 
was  deserted,  floated  otf,  drifted  into  the.  bay  over  the  bai'  with  the  Hood  tide, 
flTounded  on  the  tlats,  and  at  the  followiii;^-  hi^ih  water  floated  oil'  a;;ain  ;  but  no 
one  bcinu'  aboard,  she  again  drifted  on  the  tlats,  and  lay  inside  of  Sand  J'oint  for 
sonu'  years. 

In  I'ebruai'y  IS,")?,  while  we  were  on  Tonndes  Point,  the  waters  of  the  bay 
ehaiificd  to  a  deep  brownish  iturjile  color,  and  the  lish  died  in  such  .nicat  numbers 
that  the  beaches  and  water  were  coveretl  with  them. 

This  ba,\  was  known  as  I'ort  .Juan  Francisco  by  the  Spaniards  when  Vancou- 
ver visited  the  coast  in  ITKL'. 

In  old  Mexican  j;rants  it  is  called  Tanndes,  and  sometinn\s  Tomales.  The  old 
Californians  invariably  pionounce  it  like-  the  fcnnier. 

Belcher  erroiieiuisly  desiiiuates  it  as  a  i)art  of  IJodejia  P>ay. 

The  Ifussiaus  have  a  chart  of  it. 

I).'  3Iofras  calks  it  the  Kstero  Americam>,  which  is  another  body  of  water  emp- 
tyinjj  into  Pxideji'a  Bay.     lie  calls  Point  Tomales  Point  Bodega. 

Tlie  topoiii'aithy  of  its  entrance  was  executi'd  hy  the  Coast  Survey  in  ISoo.  A 
map  of  the  whole  bay  was  published  in  lS(il. 


I 


BODEGA   HEAD. 

This  ]ioint  lies  noith mu'thwest  eighteen  miles  from  Los  Beyes,  and  forms  the 
ncutheru  point  of  IJodega  I'ay,  considering  Tomales  I'oint  the  southern.  The 
head  is  two  or  three  hundred  feet  high,  with  a  slightly  rounding  summit,  and  <'on- 
tinues  of  nearly  the  same  height  for  one  and  three-quarters  of  a  mile  northwest, 


i! 


li!  l! 


i  i 


iw 


\l  { 


.11 


86  COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFOKNIA. 

whore  it  ehaiiRos  to  a  broad  saiid-boacl),  with  low  country  near,  but  hi<>"h  bills  in 
the  haekjiTound.  The  face  of  the  land  about  here  l)e«;in,s  to  change  from  its  nni- 
Ibrin  want  of  trees  to  hills  partially  covered.  U  has  been  fretiuentiy  held  out  as  a 
waniinii  not  to  niistalic  Hcidc^a  Head  for  Tunta  de  Ids  I'eyes,  hut  there  exists  no 
reasonalile  j;'.ound  for  raisinj;'  a  (piestion  on  this  subject,  althonj^h  navij;ators,  who 
have  lost  or  jeo]>ardized  vessels,  oiler  as  an  excuse  the  great  similarity  of  the  coast 
and  headlands  to  those  near  the  (Jolden  (Jate.  AV(^  have  nt'ver  been  able  to  detect 
it.  Thirteen  miles  west-southwest  fiom  the  head  !he  depth  of  water  is  seventy- 
one  fathoms,  over  tine  HTcen  sand,  decreasinj;-  rejjularly  to  thirty  fathoms,  over  soft 
{i'reen  mud,  fi'om  two  to  one  and  a  half  miles  off  the  head,  and  ten  fathoms  half  a 
mile  from  shore.  The  hiffhest  part  of  the  head  is  about  two  hundred  and  sixty- 
live  leet  abov(^  the  ocean.  From  an  examination  of  this  section  we  believe  that  it 
is  the  continuation  of  the  Tonudes  l{idj>e. 

Tiie  };eoyrapliical  position  of  the  Coast  Survey  station  on  the  head  is: 

Latitude 38  18  L>0.0  north. 

Longitude 1-3  02  47.2  west. 

/(.  m.    n. 
Or,  in  time 8  12  ll.l. 

This  station  is  one  mile  from  the  southern  extremity  of  the  point. 

The  magnetic  variation  observed  near  the  moutii  of  the  Kstero  Americano,  in 
July  ISOO,  was  UP  lit'.l  east.     The  i)resent  yearly  increase  is  1'. 

Th(>  Knssians  called  this  head  Cax)e  liumiant.sotf,  and  placed  it  in  latitude  38° 
17'.8,  longitude  122°  rA)'.{). 

IJODEGA   15AV. 

From  Tomales  Point  to  Hodega  Head  the  course  is  northwest  three-(inarters 
west,  and  the  distan<'e  four  and  tluee-cjuarters  miles.  The  average  width  of  the 
bay  to  the  eastward  of  the  above  line  is  one  and  two-thirds  miles,  with  the  sluue 
running  nearly  a  parallel  course.  The  shore  of  the  bay  is  bordered  by  nunu'rous 
rocks,  is  abrupt,  and  reaches  a  lieight  of  live  hundred  and  ninety-four  feet 
less  than  a  mile  inland.  The  aiwhoiage  lies  between  the  head  and  the  nn)uth  of 
the  Estero  Anu'ricano,  (called  Avatcha  by  the  Pussians,)  which  lies  east  by  north 
five-eighths  lujrth,  two  and  a  half  mile:',  from  the  head.  One  mile  west  of  the 
estero,  a  h)w,  narrow  sand-spit  one  and  a  half  miles  long,  and  covered  with  bushes, 
stretches  toward  the  head,  within  one  hinulred  yards  ot  it,  where  a  i)assag(^  exists 
for  the  waters  of  the  e\i»  ii.uve  lagoon  north  of  tlm  sand-spit,  having  small  and 
intricate  chaniu'ls,  but  abnost  destitute  of  water  at  low  tides.  A  dei»th  of  eigh- 
teen feet  can  Ik^  carried  into  this  lagoon  over  the  bar  at  low  water.  The  channel 
increases  in  depth  foi'  one  mile  inside,  and  inns  close  luuler  the  western  shore. 
The  depth  of  wafer  on  the  bar  is  sidtject  to  changes  after  heavy  southeast  weather. 

One-(iMar(er  of  a  mile  east-southeast  from  the  middle  of  the  southeast  face  of 
the  head  lies  Podega  Pock,  (Oiniuiia-pa-i  Island  of  the  Pussians,)  rising  a  few  feet 


COAST  PILOT  OP  CALIFORNIA. 


87 


t  liijjii  Iiills  ill 
I'  from  its  iiiii- 
■  licld  out  iis  a 
licrc  exists  no 
ivigators,  wlio 
■yoftlic  const 
iihlc  to  detect 
U'v  is  seventy- 
Dins,  over  soft 
itlionis  half  n 
ed  and  sixty- 
)elieve  that  it 

id  is : 

I'O.O  north. 
47.2  west. 

11.1. 


Lmericauo,  lu 


hititudc  38° 


ree-qiiartors 

i 

vidtii  of  tlie 

th  tile  sliorc 

y  niiniei'ons 

ty-fonr   feet 

> 

le  month  of 

i 

st  l>y  north 

1 

ivest  of  tlie 

i 

itii  bushes, 

1 

^su}f{'.  exists 

1 

;■  small  and 

1 

til  of  eij-li- 

f 

he  ehannel 

/> 
>* 

tern  shore. 
s(  weather. 
■ast  face  of 

^1 
1 

a  few  feet 

1 

above  bifjli  water.  From  this  rock  a  reef  extends  five-eighths  of  a  mile  cast-south- 
east from  the  Inad,  with  nine  tVet  upon  it,  and  suddenly  dropping-  otf  to  three  or 
five  fathoms.  The  reef  is  densely  covered  with  kelp,  and  tiie  breakers  usually 
indicate  its  position.  Between  the  islet  and  the  head  there  is  a  narrow  foiiraiid- 
a-half-fathom  passa;;'e  op  'iiiiij;'  directly  upon  the  anclKuajic.  in  comiiij;-  from  the 
northwest  iu  summer  this  channel  is  avaihible;  but  in  beatluf:;  out  it  is  too  con- 
tracted to  be  safe.  When  directly  between  the  head  and  roirk  keep  closer  to  the 
head  than  to  the  rock.  If  coming  lu  to  the  southward  of  the  reef,  be  careful  not 
to  briii^'  the  well-marked  mouth  of  the  Fstero  Americano  (desij^nated  Kstero  de 
San  Antonio  on  the  Coast  Survey  chart)  anytliin<;'  to  the  eastward  of  northeast  Ity 
east  half  east,  and  run  that  course  until  the  eastern  binlf  of  the  head  bears  mu'th- 
west  by  west  oiie-cpiarter  west:  this  will  clear  the  tail  of  the  ret-f  about  one-ei;;lith 
of  a  mile  in  six  fathoms;  then  haul  up  northwest  by  north  half  north  for  the  aii- 
ciioraj'c,  about  three-<juarteis  of  a  mile  distant. 

The  best  aiichoraj;e  is  in  about  live  fathoms  of  water,  with  the  southeast  face 
of  the  head  bea'iii;:,^  southwest  three-(iuarters  west,  the  point  of  the  lafio(»n-si)it 
bearing  west  one-iiuarter  south,  and  the  northern  point  of  the  rock  bearing-  south- 
west one-cpiarter  west.  In  this  position  the  nearest  part  of  the  head  and  the  near- 
est part  of  the  rocks  are  lialf  a  mile  distant,  and  the  bottom  is  hard  and  coiniiosed 
of  coarse  sand  and  small  patches  of  clay.  This  anchorage  is  protected  by  the  head 
and  the  low  rocky  islet  and  reef,  about  three-ciuarters  of  a  mile  oil!'  the  southeast 
face,  from  the  full  force  of  the  northwest  swell,  which  generally  rolls  in  disagree- 
ably in  the  open  part  of  the  bay  if  the  weather  is  heavy.  During  the  winter  sea- 
son it  is  necessary  to  anchor  well  out,  to  be  readj'  to  sli})  and  run,  as  the  sea-room 
is  very  contracted  and  the  swell  heavy.  Some  vessels  have  ridden  out  heavy 
simtheasters,  bnt  several  have  been  lost,  lu  beating  out,  the  only  (hiiiger  is  the 
reef  ort"  the  head. 

On  accimnt  of  the  general  dei»ressioii  of  the  coast  hills  behind  Ijodega  r»ay,  to 
about  live  hundred  or  six  hundred  feet  elevation,  and  the  valley  in  which  the 
Estero  Americamt  lies  being  perpendicular  to  the  coast  line,  tin'  summer  wimls 
draw  ill  towards  the  I'etaluma  valley  with  great  tbice.  The  trunks  of  the  oak 
trees  rise  straight  for  about  ten  feet,  then  bend  almost  at  right  angles,  without 
a  branch  lor  ten  or  tifteen  feet,  and  terminate  in  a  clump  of  branches  all  dragged 
out  by  the  force  of  the  wind.  Fogs  are  found  (U'awing  in  sooner  and  more  fre- 
(luently  than  upon  any  other  part  of  the  coast. 

The  countiy  in  the  vicinity  of  the  bay  is  very  productive,  both  in  the  valleys 
and  upon  the  hills.  The  produce  is  jilaced  in  lighters  at  the  "port"  or  enii)arca- 
dero,  about  one  mile  within  the  lagoon,  and  carried  by  the  euirent  to  the  :iiu  bor- 
age. 

A  line  tract  of  agricultural  <'onntry  stretches  behind  the  coast  hills,  extending 
fnuii  Itussian  Ifivcr  Valley  to  I'etaluma  Creek,  by  which  channel  tlu'  iirodiice  of 
this  region  liuds  its  way  to  Sau  Francisco. 


tl! 


88  COAST  riLOT  OF  CALirOKNlA. 

The  sccondiiry  astronoiniciil  station  of  tlio  Coast  Siirvej  was  n\Hm  the  western 
end  of  the  sand  spit;  its  geographical  position  is: 

Latitndc 3S   IS  I'O.O  north. 

Longitude 12.'i  OU  17.4  west. 

h.     III.         n. 

Or,  in  time 8   12  0!».-'. 

Tides. — Tlie  corrected  establishment,  or  mean  interval  between  the  time  of  the 
moon's  transit  and  the  time  of  high  water,  is  ll/t.  15/h.,  and  the  difference 
between  the  greatest  and  least  intervals  is  l/(.  4SHi.  The  mean  rise  and  fall  of 
tules  is  .'5.7  feet;  of  s]»ring  tides,  -t.l  feet;  and  of  neap  tides,  2.8  feet.  The  mean 
duration  of  the  Hood  is  (5//.  IS/h.,  and  of  the  ebb  Oh.  Oltn. 

To  tind  the  times  of  high  and  low  waters,  first  cimipute  them  for  San  Fran- 
cisco, and  from  the  munbers  thus  obtained  subtract  forty-nine  minutes  for  BoJega 
Uay. 

Bodega  Bay  was  discovered  by  Ileceta  and  Bodega  in  177."),  and  ])laced  in  lati- 
tude 38°  IS'  north.  It  was  partially  examined  by  Mr.  Puget,  under  Vancouver's 
<lirection,  in  17!*2. 

In  1817  Kot/.ebue  always  refers  to  it  as  I'ort  Eumiantsoff,  and  clcaily  indicates 
that  the  Itussians  intended  to  obtain  possession  of  this  cimntry. 

In  1811*,  by  permission  of  the  Spanish  goveriuu'  of  ('alif'ornia,  it  was  occupied 
by  tlie  Itussian-Anu'rican  Company,  who  afterwards  refused  to  give  it  up,  and 
retained  i)ossession  until  1841.  They  erected  two  large  wooden  houses  under  the 
blurt",  at  the  entrance  to  the  lagoon;  but  these  buildings  were  in  ruins  at  the  time 
of  our  visit  in  IS.'WJ.  The  Bussiaii  wink  of  Tebenkort'  (ISIS)  says:  ''The  bay  of 
Bodega  (Tuliato'livo)  was  fully  described  in  1S1J>,  by  Captain  llagemeister.  It  is 
similar  to  the  port  of  Tiinidad  in  being  convenient  only  during  the  sumnu'r,  when 
the  northwest  winds  blow  along  the  coast;  at  any  other  season  it  is  dangerous, 
lioth  its  indentations  witliin  the  northwest  and  southeast  headlaiuls  are  siiallow 
and  contracted,  and  therefore  it  is  necessary  lo  anchor  in  the  ojumi  roadstead." 

In  IS.'ii),  umlci'  Bclclicr's  orders,  Kellctt  commenced  the  survey  of  JJodega,  in 
the  schooner  Starling,  and  was  soon  after  joined  by  the  Suli)hur. 

The  line  of  equal  m<tiinctic  rariation  of  1(5°  east  crosses  the  coast  line  of  Hodega 
Bay  in  latitude  .'iso  ITi',  and  in  latitude  .JSo  ()(»'  crosses  the  llMtli  degiee  of  longi- 
tude. This  is  for  January  1850.  The  line  moves  southward  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  annually. 

The  rocky,  contracted,  and  unsafe  anchorage  off  this  jdace  is  northwest  tliree- 
quartcis  north  tVoni  Los  {{eyes,  distance  thirty-two  miles,  and  titteen  miles  from 
IJodega  Head.  The  large  white  buildings  of  the  llussians  on  the  rising  ground, 
and  about  one  hundred  feet  above  the  sea,  are  the  «»nly  marks  for  making  it,  and 
the  shore  is  so  steeji  and  guarded  by  rocks  and  reef's  as  tt»  render  near  approach 
dangerous. 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


89 


tlie  western 


)!•  San  Fran- 


A  little  trade  is  now  carried  on  here. 
Tlic  approximate  geographical  ])osili()n  is: 

Latitude .^S  ;{0  north. 


Longitude 


V2-2  i;{  west. 


On  some  charts  it  is  erroncoiisiN  i>laced  in  l>(>dega  ISay,  \vi(h  a  large  river  run- 
ning Irom  the  northward  into  the  bay.  lielciier  states  it  to  be  tiiirty  miles  north 
of  J>o<lcga. 

The  sIku'c  between  Lodega  Head  and  Fort  Iioss  curves  slightly  to  the  east- 
ward of  the  line  joining  the  two  j)laces.  Sand  dunes  commence  one  and  a  half 
miles  Irom  the  southern  i)oint  of  the  head,  and  extend  two  and  a  half  miles  to  the 
mouth  of  a  small  stream  called  Salmon  Creek;  these  duiu's  are  bordered  by  a  broad 
sand  beach,  and  closely  backed  by  the  Coast  range.  Niiu'  and  a  half  miles  from 
the  head  the  Slavianka  of  the  Russians  empties  into  the  sea,  breaking  through  the 
coast  hills  that  here  reach  an  elevation  of  two  thousand  two  hundiid  feet. 
During  the  summer  months  a  dry  bar  forms  com}»letely  across  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  so  that  the  travel  along  the  coast  passes  over  it.  It  retiuires  heavy  rains  to 
break  through  it,  and  forms  again  after  a  few  weeks  of  dry  weather.  Six  and  a 
half  miles  west  by  south  half  south  from  its  mouth,  the  chart  of  Tebenkotf  has 
seventy  fathoms  o\cr  nuiddy  bottom,  with  thirty  live  fathoms  sandy  bottom  about 
two  and  a  half  miles  otf  shore.  During  the  summer  tlu'  bed  is  dry  above  Healds- 
burg,  thirty  milts  from  the  nn)Uth,  and  can  be  forded  in  several  places  in  that  dis- 
tance. IJefore  breaking  through  the  coast  hills  it  conu's  from  the  utn'thward 
through  a  broad,  fertile  valley.  The  arroyos  ami  streams  opening  into  the  Rus- 
sian River  near  the  coast  are  filled  with  a  very  dense  gntwth  of  heavy  redwood  ; 
and  in  ISdO  a  tram  road  was  being  graded  along  the  coast  to  the  lagoon  inside  of 
Rodega  Head  to  carry  the  lumber  from  the  mill  on  the  river. 

From  Ross  Mountain,  two  thousand  one  hundred  and  iiinety-eight  feet  in 
height,  we  have  frecpieiitly  watched  the  discoloied  water  of  the  river  working 
along  close  inshore  to  the  northward,  and  nevei'  to  the  south.  The  lishermeu 
experience  the  same  eddy  current. 

This  stream  is  usually  known  as  "  Russian  River."  De  Mofras  calls  it  the  Sau 
Sebastian. 

Northward  of  this  river  again  commence  the  high  coast  hills,  covered  with 
timber,  which  gradually  api»roaches  the  coast,  and  reaches  it  about  half  way  to 
Fort  Ross.  The  Russian  vessels  used  this  as  a  distinctive  mark  for  making  that 
anchorage.  Where  the  timber  connneiu'cs  to  skirt  the  coast  a  bold  spur  of  tlui 
mountains  comes  directly  ui»on  tht^  sea.  At  Fort  ]{oss  there  is  a  small  extent  of 
open,  cultivated  ground,  nu»derately  low,  but  backed  by  the  high  wooded  «"ouiitry. 
The  coast  and  coast  hills  to  the  noi'thward  are  mostly  covered  with  deiise  forests 
of  innuense  redwood,  pine,  and  a  thick  uudei growth.  At  one  of  the  Coast  Survey 
mountain  stations  over  forty  trees  were  cut  down  that  nu-asured  from  live  and  a 
half  feet  in  diameter  (spruce)  to  eight  and  a  half  feet  (redwood.) 
Hi* 


■•■  i  1 


■■:  I 


.i  i 


I      ! 


90  COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFORNIA. 

Bt'tweon  Fort  Ross  and  Point  Arena  are  a  number  of  small  coves  upon  whose 
shores  saw-mills  have  been  ere<!te(l,  giving  a  large  summer  trade  to  nuiiu'rous 
small  coasters.  Tliese  aiicihorages  are  Timber  Cove,  .Stillwater,  Salt  Point,  Fisk's 
Mill,  Stewart's  Point,  Walalla  River,  liowen's  Landing,  Havens  Anehorage,  and 
Arena  Covt". 

Here  is  the  Northwest  Cape  of  the  Russians,  and  placed  by  them  in  latitude 
380  ;}5i'. 

From  Fort  Ross  to  Punta  de  Arena  the  coast  is  abncst  straight,  running 
northwest  by  west  one-quarter  west  for  thirty-seven  miU's.  It  is  compact  and 
abrupt  the  whole  distance,  covered  witli  trees  to  the  water's  edge,  and  backed 
by  an  unbroken  ridge  of  hills  about  two  thousand  feet  high,  and  wooded  to 
their  summits. 

UAV'ENS  ANCHORAGE. 

About  twenty-four  miles  northwestward  along  the  coast  from  Fort  Ross  is  a 
contracted  anchorage  under  high  i)recipitous  rocky  islets,  with  a  short  stretch  of 
beach  on  tlie  main,  atlording  a  boat  landing.  There  is  a  i)r<)tection,  when 
anchored  close  in,  against  heavy  northwest  weather ;  but  it  would  be  very  diflicult 
to  recognize  the  locality  unless  the  position  of  a  vessel  approaching  it  were  accu- 
rately determined. 

On  the  top  of  the  bluff,  at  the  north  side  of  a  small  gully,  a  secondary  astro- 
nomical station  of  the  Coast  Survey  was  established  in  1853.  Its  geographical 
position  is : 

Latitude .     38  47  58,0  north. 

Longitude 123  31  00.8  west. 

/(.     HI.         8. 

Or,  in  time 8  U  10.0 

Northward  of  this  anchorage  high  bold  rocks  line  the  coast  for  four  or  five 
miles.    They  are  generally  known  as  "  Fishing  Jtocks." 

A  few  miles  south  of  this  anchorage  is  the  mouth  of  the  AV'alalla  river,  open 
in  the  rainy  season,  but  having  a  dry  bar  in  summer.  It  rises  south  of  Fort  Ross, 
behind  the  first  range  of  coast  hills,  and  is  the  first  stream  that  breaks  through 
the  Coast  range  north  of  Ross.  It  is  called  Dirado  River  by  the  Russians,  but  is 
placed  six  miles  too  far  south.  One  of  the  Coast  Survey  stations  on  the  north 
side  of  the  river,  and  three  or  fonr  miles  from  the  coast,  has  an  elevation  of  two 
thousand  one  hundred  and  uiuety-two  feet,  and  this  nuiy  be  taken  as  the  general 
height  of  this  Coast  range. 

POINT  AUENA. 

This  is  the  first  prominent  headland  north  of  Los  Reyes,  from  which  it  bears 
northwest  one'(piarter  west,  distant  sixty-seven  miles.  Approached  either  from 
the  northward  or  southward  it  presents  a  long  level  ])lateau,  stret(!hing  out  about 
two  miles  west  of  the  highhinus,  and  terinimiting  in  a  peri»endicular  bluff  that 


msm 


es  upon  whoso 

to  mmu'ious 

t  Point,  Fisk's 

uclioijige,  juhI 

in  in  latitude 


iiilit,  running 
compact  and 
,  and  backed 
id  wooded  to 


^'ort  Eoss  is  a 
ort  stretch  of 
ection,  wlien 
very  diHieult 
it  were  accu- 


I 


Dudary  astro- 
geographieai 

II 
5S.0  nortli. 
00,8  west. 

s. 

10.0 

•  four  or  five 

ii  river,  open 
)f  Fort  Itoss, 
aks  tluough 
sians,  but  is 
in  the  iu>rth 
ation  of  two 
the  general 


licli  it  bears 
either  from 
g  out  about 
r  blurt'  that 


m 


^j. 


...I 


i 


M 


t    I 


-■^jik^. 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CAUFOHXIA. 


1)1 


avoriifics  about  two  luiiKlretl  foot  in  liciji'lit,  oxcopt  tlic  cxtremo  nortliwcst  jtiirr, 
wliirli  is  ('oiiiitiiiativcly  low,  ])ai'tiall,v  covorcd  with  Hand,  and  dcstitntc  of  tiers  for 
sonic  distaiicf  inland.  Wlicii  seen  from  tin*  southward,  with  the  siiii  sliiiiiiij;  upon 
the  face  of  the  lihitV,  it  sliows  remarkably  white  for  the  lcn};th  of  two  niih's.  In 
iiutt,  no  point  iinon  the  i-oast  presents  such  a  brif,'ht  aiipearaiiee,  or  sneh  uniform 
vert'cal  bluffs,  eoniposed  of  hard  rot-ks,  twisted  and  distorted  into  many  plications. 
]}o!d  water  is  found  close  off  the  point,  outside  the  kelp,  which,  stretchinfj  strongly 
to  the  southward,  shows  the  set  and  (;omi)arative  stren<;th  of  the  ciirreiit.  In 
0(!tober  J-S-IT,  wejndj;ed  it  to  be  runnin}>-  at  the  rate  of  not  less  than  two  miles  an 
hour.  In  July  IS.").'),  the  coin])uted  distances  between  the  astronomical  stations, 
('ompared  with  the  indications  of  .Massey's  patent  lo<{-,  showed  a  current  of  from 
one  to  two  miles  jier  h<nir,  runniii};^  ahiii^  the  coast  to  tlie  s(mthward. 

About  two  miles  southward  of  the  point  a  small  contracted  valley  opens  upon 
the  shore,  and  otV  it  is  an  anchorage  for  small  vessels,  moderately  well  ])rotected 
from  the  northwest  swell,  but  open  to  the  siaithwest.  Several  schooners  have 
gone  ashore  here.  A  large  bed  of  kelp  lies  oft"  the  anchorage,  and  two  reefs  of 
rocks,  upon  which  the  sea  is  constantly  breaking,  mark  the  north  and  soutli  sides 
of  the  i)assage  thereto.    Vessels  generally  moor  with  their  stems  in  shore. 

The  south  point  of  this  cove  or  anchorage  is  a  bright  bliitf  twice  as  high  as 
the  bluff  towards  Point  Arena,  and  is  distinctly  visible  fifteen  miles  to  seaward  in 
the  afternoon  when  the  sun  is  shining  upon  it.  I>y  it  the  position  of  Point  Aremi 
may  be  deterinined,  when  the  latter  is  below  the  horizon. 

About  a  mile  and  a  half  north  by  west  from  the  jioint  are  several  rocks  show- 
ing just  above  the  water,  and  upon  which  the  least  swell  lu'caks.  These  were 
noticed  by  Vancouver  in  October  17!>.'{.  When  one  mile  broad  off  Arena,  a  higli, 
sharii  pinnacle  rock  shows  well  out  from  the  shore  on  the  horizon  to  tli«'  south- 
ward, with  some  rocky  islets  iiisich',  and  breakers  well  out  beyond  the  Pinnacle 
Jfock,  yet  northward  of  it:  but  their  distances  from  shore  are  probably  not  so 
uiuch  as  a  mile. 

The  approximate  geographical  position  of  Point  Arena  is: 

Latitude US  r)7  north. 

Longitude lU.'}   I't  west. 

A  recommendatioii  has  been  made  for  a  Jifiht-house  uixui  this  ])oint,  because  it 
is  much  needed  by  the  mail  ami  coasting  steamers  and  sailing  vessels. 

The  appearance  of  this  and  other  jiarts  of  the  coast  induced  Sir  Francis 
Drake  to  call  the  land  New  Albion,  whilst  the  same  ajiiH'arance  and  sandy  line  to 
the  northward  of  it  doubtless  led  the  Spaniards  to  designate  it  La  IMinta  de 
Arena.  It  suggests  an  iiKjiiiry  concerning  the  numerous  Cape  lilancos  that  are 
found  in  their  voyages  and  maps. 

For  thirty  miles  northward  of  Point  Arena  are  a  number  of  small  anchorages, 
where  vessels  load  lumber  for  San  Francisco.  The  oi'der  in  which  they  are  passed 
is  Novarro  Uiver,  Cuttee's  Cove,  Albion  Itiver,  Little  River,  ISIcndocino  Bay,  Kus- 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


slim  (Jiilcli.  C'jispiir  ('reck,  iiiul  Xoyn  Ifivor.     In  ISHS  the  aiiioiint  of  IuiiiIut  sliip- 
1U'<1  liDiii  tlu'sc  pliirt'S  Wiis  .*.  1,(100,(100  feet. 

'r»'n  miles  iiuitliwiiiMl  ai'  Point  Arriiii  is  the  siiiiill  strciini  iiiiiiicd  Noviiiio 
L'ivcr.  Articles  lloiitiii;n  Iroiii  tliis  strciiiii  iin^  ahviiys  roiiiid  on  tlic  shores  to  the 
iioithwanl,  showing  the  existence  of  an  «'(l<Iy  current  close  in  shore. 

AMMUN   KlVi:!!. 

From  Point  Arena  the  lirst  point  to  the  northwestward  is  twentyfonr  miles 
distiint,  and  Itearin;,' northwest  i»y  north  two-thinis  north.  Alter  passing- Areini, 
the  coast  treinls  to  the  eastward  of  north,  and  lor  six  mih's  presents  a  low  shore- 
line with  sand  heacli,  chanjjin;,'  snddenly  to  a  straight,  hijili  hlntl" shore  with  a  lew 
trees,  and  hacked  within  hall'  a  mile  l»y  hills  of  two  thonsand  feet,  c(»vered  to 
their  snmmits  with  wood.  Sixteen  ami  a  half  miles  from  Arena  is  the  month  of 
the  Albion  Hiver,  a  very  snndl  stream,  with  the  barest  apoloj^y  for  a  harbor  at  its 
month.  A  saw-mill  npon  this  stream  indnces  coasteis  to  obtain  freij;lits  here,  but 
a  yreat  many  of  those  tradinj;'  liave  been  lost.  In  1<S."»;5  the  Coast  Survey  steamer 
Active  passed  in,  but  broke  her  anchor  on  the  rocky  bottom. 

:\u:ndoc'ino  uav. 

Twenty  and  a  half  miles  from  Arena,  and  tour  above  Albi(m  IJiver,  is  a  con- 
tracted indentation  called  Mendocino  Hay,  available  for  a  few  vessels  in  summer, 
but  dan,i;('rons  in  winter.  The  northern  and  southern  i>oints  are  about  thre«'-(piiir 
ters  of  a  mile  a|»art,  and  the  eastern  shore  retreats  nearly  half  a  mile.  At  the 
southern  head  are  several  small  rocks,  and  one  larfte  islet  surrounded  by  rocks,  otl" 
Avhich  are  heavy  breakers.  Midway  between  the  heads  is  a  snndl  reef  upon  whi<'h 
the  sea  breaks  heavily,  with  very  little  swell.  Deep  water  is  found  close  around 
this  reef.  OH"  the  northern  head  is  very  bold  water  close  to  it.  Int(»  the  north- 
east i)art  of  the  bay  enters  the  river  Noyon,  or  Ui(»  Grauch',  between  two  and 
three  hundred  yards  Avide,  with  a  <>'ood  chaniu'l  on  the  southern  side,  a  broad 
sand  Hat  on  the  northern,  and  a  bar  at  the  mcmtli  with  but  a  few  feet  of  water, 
and  ujton  Avliich  it  always  breaks.  The  eastern  slnu'e  is  bold  ami  rocky.  In  the 
southeastern  )>art  is  a  sand  beach,  Avith  a  reef  extending'  from  its  center. 

The  bay  forms  so  slijiht  an  indentation  in  the  coastline  that  it  is  diflicult  to 
tind  without  acquaintaiu'e  Avith  its  minutest  i)eculiarities,  as  there  are  no  promi- 
nent marks  by  which  to  determine  it.  The  ncn-th  head  is  a  table  bluff  about  sixtj' 
feet  hiji'h,  and  destitute  of  trees  to  the  northward  and  some  distance  inshore.  The 
south  bluft"  is  likewise  destitute  of  trees,  but  more  irregular  in  outline  than  the 
other.  Vessels  bound  for  it  in  summer  work  a  little  to  wiiulward;  then  run  bohlly 
in  towaids  the  north  i)oint,  upon  which  the  lumses  become  recojjnized,  keej)  as 
close  as  ])ossible  alon<;'  the  shore,  jirachndly  decreasing-  the  distance  to  one  hun- 
dred yards  Just  olt'  the  south  eiul  (»f  the  point  in  six  fathoms,  run  on  about  one 
hundred  and  lifty  yards  past  the  point,  head  np  handsomely,  ami  anchor  in  live  or 
six  fathoms,  hard  bottom.     Jt  is  a  bad  berth  in  summer,  and  in  winter  a  vessel 


i 


kjlt 


IiiiiiIht  .sliip. 


■^lion-s  to  the 


t.V-loiii-  iiiih'S 
^siii^-  Aiviiii, 
ii  low  slioro- 
•'  with  ii  lew 
covcicd  to 

'<'    IIMtlltll  of 

liirltor  at  its 
ts  liorc,  hilt 
'<'y  .stciiiiicr 


I 


■r,  IS  a  coii- 
n  .siiiiiiiicr, 
lii'H'-fjiiiir 
'.     M  the 
■  rocks,  otr 
poll  which 
•«'  ;ii'oiiii(l 
he  iiojtli- 
two  and 
,  ii  Iti'oad 
of  water, 
.     Ill  the 


I* 


iflindt  to 

0  promi- 
mt  sixty 
le.  Tlie 
fliJin  tlie 
u  hohlly 
I<<'<'I)  as 
lie  liuii- 

DUt    Olio 

1  five  or 
I  \ essel 


iUl 


("OAST  IMLOT  OK  CAMFOIfXIA.  93 

must  iiiiclior  t'ur  ciinii;'!!  oiil  to  lu'  iiltlc  to  sli|t  licr  ciihlc  mid  n'o  to  sen  iiiioii  the 
first  ii|»|)('iii'iiii<('  of  II  sdiitliciistt'i'.     St'vciiil  Vfssi'ls  liavr  lict'ii  diivcii  iisliurc  licrc. 

All  cxti'iisivc  siiw mill  is  lonitt'd  on  flic  iiortli  side  of  tlic  river,  soiih'  distiiiin' 
up:  f<  riiicrl.v  (IS,"i;i)  it  wiis  on  the  iioilli  In-iid,  hihI  ii  stiitioiiiir.v  t'ii;;iiic  wns  plnrcd 
nt>:ir  tlic  inoiitli  of  tlic  rivrr  to  drnw  loiided  ciirs  up  the  iurliiifd  pliinr,  wlit'iue 
they  Wfif  driiwn  to  tlic  mill.  The  lunibcr  was  slid  down  clmtcs  into  hw^v  scows, 
and  carried  to  the  anchorage. 

The  jtlace  is  soiiictiiiics  called  Meif-^fsville,  hut  }j;enerall,v  it  is  known  as  AJendo- 
eino. 

The  secondary  astrononiical  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  is  on  the  north  head, 
and  its  j4eoj;iapliical  jiosititioii — 

Latitude ;«»  IS  (MJ.I   north. 

Loii;;itude l-'.i   17  -'>M  west. 

/(.    III.      1. 
Or,  in  time S  ir.  («».7. 

The  computed  ma;;iietic  viiriation,  ItP  .'5.V' east,  .Fiily  1S,"(7;  iiiereasinf>'  ahoiit 
J'  yearly. 

Fro..!  the  jioiiit  Just  north  of  INIeiidociiio  Hay,  (the  liist  one  made  from  Arena,) 
the  shore  runs  nearly  straifi'ht  for  twenty  eij:lit  miles  iioitli  by  west  half  west, 
beiiifjlowand  hounded  by  I'ocks  for  twelve  miles,  when  the  back  hills  reach  the 
water  and  present  an  almost  vertical  front  two  thousand  feet  in  heijiht. 

From  tho  (h'e]»est  part  of  the  bijiht  the  general  trend  of  the  coast  to  Ca])0 
Mendocino  is  northwest  tliree-cpiaiters  west,  and  distant  forty  live  miles,  and  for 
jiart  of  this  distance  it  is  particularly  bold  and  forbiddinji',  the  ranye  of  hills  ruiiiiiii;n' 
jKirallel  to  the  shore  and  risiii;^  diicctly  from  it.  At  a  distance  of  one  mile  from 
shore  the  {icneral  depth  of  water  is  twenty  fathoms.  About  twenty  siv  miles  north 
of  .Memhx'ino  J>ay  and  twenty  miles  soiitli  of  Shelter  ("ove  is  an  indentation  !:i  the 
coast  line,  locally  known  as  Summer  Harbor,  whence  a  limited  shipment  of  aj;ri- 
eultural  juoduce  is  made  in  summer. 

For  January  l.sr»!>,  the  line  of  e([ual  maji'iietic  variation  of  17^  east  crosses  tho 
ooast-line  in  latiuide  ;{{)°  .W,  and  in  latitude  .'{!P  48' crosses  the  l-.")th  degree  of 
longitmle.     This  line  moves  southward  about  a  mile  and  a  half  annually. 

siiEi/n^ii  covio. 

From  the  eom])act  shore  above  described  a  jdateau,  th'stitute  of  wood,  and 
from  sixty  to  three  hundred  feet  in  heiftiit,  makes  s(piare  out  just  above  latitude 
4(P  north  for  a  distance  of  half  a  mile,  aflbrding  an  anchoraj;o  from  northwest  winds, 
and  may,  perhai)s,  be  rejianh'd  as  a  harbor  of  refuse  for  small  coasters  which  have 
experienced  heavy  weather  otf  Cape  ^lendoeino,  and  are  short  of  wood  and  water, 
both  of  which  may  be  obtainetl  here  troiii  one  or  two  jiulches  ojteniuf;'  iijr.u  tho  sea. 

From  Point  Arena  it  bears  northw«'st  by  north,  one-third  north,  distant  sixty- 
five  miles.  The  whole  sea-face  of  the  blulf  is  bounded  by  thousands  of  rocks  above 
and  below  water,  and  vessels  <'oming' from  the  north  for  shelter  must  give  it  a  with' 


!    I     :t'' 


I:    M 


94  COAST  riLOT  OF  CALlFOliNIA. 

borth,  ronndiiiff  it  witliiu  oiio-tliinl  of  a  milo,  and  aiuthoriiip  in  five  fathoms, 
hnrd  bottom,  about  onc-tliird  of  a  mile  from  shore.  In  lliis  position  frcsli  water 
I'omt's  dt>\vn  a  ravine  bearing'  ab»mt  north,  and  an  Indian  vilhific  existed  in  is."}.'}  at 
the  bottom  of  the  \voo(h'd  ravine,  a  litth^  furtiier  to  the  eastward.  There  is  always 
a  swell  lure,  and  boat-landi.'u;  amy  not  be  very  easy. 

The  seeondary  astronomical  statii)n  of  the  Coast  Survey  was  on  the  southeast 
part  of  the  blutf,  about  sixty  feet  above  the  sea.    Its  geograplueal  posititm  ''■• — 

Latitude 40  01  13.7  north. 

Longitude 124  03  02.9  west. 

h.    m.      ». 
Or,  in  time 8  IG  12.2. 

The  computed  magnetic  variation,  17^  22'  east,  in  July  1857 ;  increasing  about 
1'  yearly. 

T])on  old  Si>anish  charts  a  point  in  this  vicinity  is  designated  Point  Delgado, 
perliaps  referring  to  it.     La  Terouse,  17S7,  calls  it  Punta  del  (iada. 

Tebenkort's  chart  designates  ic  as  Point  Vizcaino,  but  locates  it  in  latitude  3d^ 
48',  longitu<le  1230  53'. 

A  hydrogrii.i)hic  sketch  of  Shelter  Cove  accompanied  the  Coast  Survey  report 
for  isr.4. 

About  six  miles  northwestward  of  Slu'lter  Cove,  under  a  jutting  point,  a  small 
stream  enters,  called  Marone  Kiver  on  the  laissinu  chart  of  Tebenkoff.  Thence  to 
Punta  Gorda  the  coast  is  bordered  by  a  good  sand  beach,  while  tlie  hills,  rising 
behind  it,  are  rounding,  covered  with  .^n'.ss  and  hei'bage  and  sparsely  tind)ered. 
This  characteristic  of  the  hills  exists  IVoni  Shelter  Cove  to  Cape  Mendocino,  and 
tl"^  valleys  are  dotted  with  settlers'  houses,  &c.  The  tops  of  the  mountains  are 
covered  with  chapparal.  One  noticeable  peak,  about  three  miles  inland  and  rising- 
above  the  Coast  range,  Just  north  of  Sheber  Cove,  attains  an  elevation  of  four 
thousand  eight  hundred  and  eighteen  feet,  and  another  pruuiinent  peak  lies  seven 
an<l  a  halt'  miles  southeast  of  tht-  former. 

in  iSiiT  the  light-hou^'.e  steamer  Shubri  k  was  wrecked  about  six  miles  north- 
ward of  Shelter  Cove. 

PUNTA  GORDA. 

This  headland  is  seventeen  miles  northwest  by  west  one-half  west  from  Shelter 
Cove,  and,  as  its  nana'  imi)lies,  is  a  large,  bold,  rounding  point.  Haifa  mile  from 
it  lies  a  large  rocky  islet,  with  rocks  close  in  slnne,  north  of  the  i)oint.  From 
Point  Arena  it  bears  nortlnvest  three-quarters  north,  distant  eigiity-one  miles, 
and  the  line  passing  tangent  to  Punta  Gm'da  runs  one  mile  outside  of  Cape 
Mendocino. 

Cape  Fortnnas  is  called  I'unta  (lorda  by  La  Pcrouse. 

Tel)enki>fi'designa*""  Punta  Cbirda  as  Point  Delgailo. 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFOENIA. 


95 


,: 


CAPE  MENDOCINO. 

This  mmiiitninous  hcailland,  torniiiifi'  tlic  wcstciii  limit  oftlio  noithwcst  trend 
of  the  (!()ii.st  hence  tVoiii  I'oint  Keyes.  is  ninetyti:ree  miles  n()rtli\v«'st  v!!i'<"'-';uiir- 
ters  north  from  Pniita  <le  Arena,  and  from  the  eape  to  the  tStraiglit  of  I'lua  the 
general  trend  of  the  (joast  is  north-northwest. 

Here  the  ranj^e  of  hold  coast  hills  from  the  sonthward  ai)|)oars  to  meet  a  range 
from  the  eastward,  forming  ridg's  of  fonrteen  hniidred  feet  elevation  within  a  mile 
of  the  coast,  with  peaks  of  tweuiv-tive  hundred  to  three  thousaiid  feet  within  ten 
uules  of  the  sea. 

The  face  of  the  cape  is  steep  and  rocky  near  the  water-Une;  above  that  the 
general  appvarance  is  rolling  and  grass-covered,  except  in  the  deep  valleys  and 
upon  some  of  the  steep  liill-sich's. 

The  well  marked  and  regularly-shaped  pyramidal  rock  immediately  olf  the 
pitch  of  the  ca])e,  and  known  as  the  iSngar-loaf  or  Haystack,  is  a  readily  distin- 
guished feature  in  ai>i>roacliing  it  from  the  lunth  or  south,  and  from  seaward.  It 
is  three  hundred  aud  twenty-eight  feet  above  tiie  sea,  .lud  bears  wc^st  IS^  south 
one  third  of  a  mile  from  the  light. 

The  large  rocky  islet  ott"  the  face  of  Cape  Fortunas  is  not  so  regularly  shaped. 

("ai)e  Menihicinois  noted  for  having  a  snudl  dangerous  ledge,  l)are  at  all  tides, 
lying  three  miles  broad  off  it,  and  known  as  Blunt's  lieef.  Tin;  larger  breaker  of 
this  reef  be.u's  west  10^  scuth  from  the  light,  and  distant  three  miles;  the 
smaller  breaker  is  ,i  short  distance  to  the  northeastward  of  tin-  f(!rmer.  This  reef 
"warS  noticed  by  Yi.'.icouver  as  being  .vbout  one  leagut  otf  shon-.     (\'ol.  I,  j).  JUS.) 

The  passage  between  the  reef  ami  the  cajio  has  been  generally  used  by  the 
coasting  stean;ers  and  hnuber  vessels,  but  a  recent  )>'«'liminary  exai:"i!.ii.'tu  shows 
it  to  be  a  dangerous  hu-ality  that  should  be  avoided.  At  low  tides,  with  a  large 
swell  fr(»in  the  westward,  and  smooth  surface,  several  hea\y  breakers  are  o<"ca- 
sionally  seen. 

A  great  break  bears  west  21 P  south  from  the  light,  ami  ai»|)arently  the  same 
distance  therefrom  as  IJlunt':  Keef.  This  does  not  break  at  half-tide  and  veiy 
seldom  at  low-w.iter,  but  it  is  very  heavy  when  it  ih)es  occur. 

Beiv'f'en  that  grei.t  break  and  Blunt's  I teef.  but  probably  three  (juaiters  of  a 
mile  nearer  the  cai)e,  are  three  breaks,  bearing  respectively  west  l.^ip  south,  west 
l(ii°  south,  and  west  Isp  sop'h  from  the  light.     They  do  lutt  occur  frecpu'ntly. 

Nearer  the  ciijte  thai'  .o  Blunt's  Iteef  are  three  sunken  ro(  ks,  showing  breaks 
at  low  water,  andonv  rock  awashat  half  tide.  From  the  liglit  keepei''s  dwelling  the 
northernmost  ttne  l»ears  west  1!>.^^  south,  distant  three  ((uarters  of  a  mile  from  the 
Haystack  ;  the  second  bears  south  .">(P  west  fi'om  t!ie  dwelling,  and  is  about  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  Haystack;  the  third  bears  s(»utli  .S,\o  west  from  the 
dwelling,  and  is  about  oih'  li'ile  from  tiu'  Hisystavk.  Tiie  f'ourtii,  awasli  at  half- 
tide,  is  ,  n  the  same  bearing  as  the  last,  but  nearer  (!u'  Haystack. 

There  nuiy  be  a  clear  passage  of  one  mile  in  width  between  these  dangers,  and 


m 


96  COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFORNIA. 

there  may  be  sutticient  wiito;  upon  some  of  tlieiu  for  ordinary  vei'sels  and  steamers 
to  pass  over  them,  hai  until  the  present  .survey  settles  the  dout)t  it  will  be  prudent 
to  avoid  th'"'.  i)assage. 

Steamers  have  passed  dangerously  near  sonu*  of  these  snnlcei)  rocks,  and,  in 
J857,  one  was  distinctly  seen  almost  under  the  Avlieel  of  the  steamship  Coau;!odore. 

In  January  l.S(»(),  the  steamship  Northerner  struck  upon  one  oi'  these  loeks. 
Tlio  weather  was  slif>htly  hazy;  hmji',  large  f>Toiuul-sweIl  from  the  northwest ; 
little  wind  and  low  tide.  She  was  bouiul  up  the  coast,  and  going  over  ten  knots 
per  hour.  As  her  bow  sunk  in  the  trough  of  the  sea  a  A'ery  slight  jar  was  felt 
forward,  exciting  no  alarm  among  the  uninitiated.  The  pumps  Avere  imnu-diately 
sounded  andtlu'  ship  found  to  be  making  water  very  fast.  She  headed  for  Jium- 
boldt,  but  was  beached  near  the  northern  side  of  Cape  Fortunas,  where  shoal 
water  extends  out  ibr  a  quartc"  of  a  mile,  aiul  went  to  pieces  in  a  heavy  southwest 
blow  that  sprang  up. 

CAPE  :me^docixo  light. 

The  tower  stands  on  the  outermost  part  and  about  'one-third  of  the  h(>ight  of 
the  ca]M!  above  the  sea.  It  is  a  frustum  of  a  ])yrami<l  of  sixteen  sides,  twenty 
feet  high  from  base  to  focal  plane,  constructed  of  iron,  painted  wliite  and  sur- 
mounted by  a  l.uitern  and  illumiiuiting  api)aratus  of  the  first  order  of  the  system 
of  Fresnel.  The  dome  of  the  lantern  is  painted  red.  The  light  is  a  rcrolrinf/  white 
lUjhi^  shoicinffafash  every  half  minitte.  Tlu^  duraticm  of  the  flash  is  live  seconds, 
of  the  partial  (,bs.'uration  live  seconds,  of  the  total  eclijjse  lifteen  seconds,  uiul  of 
the  second  partial  obscurati(»n  five  seconds. 

The  focal  plane  of  the  light  is  four  hundred  and  twenty-six  feet  above  the  nu'an 
level  of  the  sea,  and  should  be  visil)le,  in  a  favorable  state  of  the  weather,  Irom  a 
height  of — 

10  feet  at  a  distance  of  27.2  miles. 

20  .'eet  at  a  distance  of  2S.7  miles. 

;{0  feet  at  a  distance  of  .'50.0  mih's. 

(iO  fee*^  at  a  tlistaiu-e  of  .'32..>  miles. 

Tlie  geographical  position  of  the  light,  as  determined  by  the  United  States 
Coast  Survey,  is — 

O  '  " 

Latitude 40  20  17  north. 

Longitude 124  21  10  west. 

/(.         VI.        M. 

Or,  in  time ^    17  'M'k~. 

And  tlu'  computed  magnetic  variation  for  .January  1.^70,  is  (7°  21'  east. 

Tlic  bght  lias  an  arc  of  visibility  irom  north  7°  west  to  south  23^  east,  and  can 
be  seen  olV  Humboldt  liar. 

The  lighthouse  keeper's  dwelling  is  a  two  story  brick  buililing',  with  a  wing  of 
oiU!  stciv  on  each  side.    Its  <!olor  is  brick-red,  with  green  blinds  to  the  windows,  ind 


is  and  .steamers 
will  be  piiuleiit 


rocks,  iuid,  ill 
ip  Coiiiiijodore. 
)<■  tliese  locks, 
the  iiortlnvest ; 
tver  ten  knots 
It  jar  was  felt 
e  immediately 
ided  for  IJnm- 
,  Avlieie  slioal 
•d\y  soutliMest 


tlie  height  of 
sides,  twenty 
lite  and  sur- 
jf  the  system 
Tolchiff  white 
five  seconds, 
■onds,  and  of 


J 


'^ 


i 


X 


\ 


iiV 


fi 


'<}■• 


>ve  the  mean 
ther,  from   a 


m 


lited  States 

17  north. 
10  west. 

east. 

st,  and  can 


I  a  winy  of 
idows,  !uitl 


m 


11 


fifl! 


]i   t 


V       ] 


COAST  riLOT  OF  CALIFOKXIA.  97 

is  .situatctl  two  Iniiulrod  and  ton  yai'ds  sonthoast  by  east  from  tlio  lifjlit,  and  four 
liundri'd  and  sixty  foot  above  the  sea.  Tlic  lij-lit  and  dwelling  are  both  i)roje('ted 
ayaiiist  the  face  of  the  eape  from  niosl  jxtsitioiis  .seaward. 

From  t'ai)e  ^lendoeino  the  foilowiiij;'  bcarin^is  and  distances  arc  {jiven  : 

To  Point  Arena,  southeast  thrce-tjuartcrs  south 0.>     miles. 

To  Trinitlad  Head,  north o!>     miles. 

To  J{e(hlin<!,'s  IJoek,  north  threo-qtmrters  west ."»(>    miles. 

To  Crescent  City  li^ht,  north  by  west 7(M  miles. 

To  Cape  Oiford,  north  by  west  seven-eighths  west l-l.")    miles. 

CAPE  jnJNDOCrTo. 

The  extent  of  shore-line  from  Point  Boneta  to  Cape  ^Eemlocino  is  about  two 
liundred  and  twenty-four  '   '.es. 

It  is  generally  stated  that  .Fuan  Rodriguez  Cabrillo  named  this  eape  in  honor 
of  Don  Antonio  de  Mendoza,  the  viceroy  of  ^fexico;  but  the  highest  latitude  he 
reached  was  Punta  de  los  Keyes,  to  which  he  in  reality  applied  that  name.  Jt  is 
quite  i)robable  that  under  the  lee  of  the  rocks  off  this  Cape  Ferrelo,  the  julot  and 
successor  of  Cabrillo,  anehored  on  the  last  of  February  154.},  and  nanu'd  it  Cabo 
de  Fortunas,  (Cape  of  Perils,)  although  he  jtlaces  his  position  in  latitiule  4.'{°.  The 
m'xt  day  he  may  have  been  olf  Trinidad  Head  experiencing  heavy  northerly 
Aveather,  and  his  observations  might  have  placed  him  in  latitiule  44°,  but  with  his 
vessels,  adxerse  currents,  and  a  dead  beat  to  windward,  he  could  not  ha\e  made  a 
degree  of  latitude  inadi<v.  Here  he  turned  back,  passed  the  Golden  CJate  on 
March  .3,  and  reached  the  is'.and  of  Santa  Cruz  on  the  oth.  It  is  utterly  impossi- 
ble that  with  his  small  crazy  vessels  he  could  make  eight  hundred  miles  (the  dis- 
tance from  latitude  44°  to  Santa  Cruz)  in  four  day.--. 

La  Perouse  did  not  see  the  cape,  but  places  it  in  40^'  07'.  Between  40°  ,'?8'  and 
3G°  5S'  he  aitpears  to  have  been  carried  thirty  miles  to  the  southward  by  the  cur 
rent,  and  a  little  off  shore.  This  off-shore  set  of  the  current  has  since  been  often 
experienced. 

Seven  miles  south  of  ^Arendocino  a  small  stream  called  the  ]\rattole  empties. 
Upon  the  sides  of  the  hills,  in  lower  Mattole,  and  not  above  a  mile  from  the  Pacitic, 
coal  oil  springs  were  discovered  in  18(!l.  Along  the  course  of  this  stream  are 
numerous  bottom  lands  under  cultivation. 

CAPE  FORTUNAS,   OU  FALSE  IMENDOCINO. 

This  head  lies  northward  of  Cape  ]\Ieiidocino,  distant  five  or  six  miles,  and  is 
another  bold  spur  of  mountaimms  headland,  similar  ami  almost  as  high  as  that 
cape.  Between  the  two  the  shore  recedes  slightly,  is  depressed,  and  forms  a  beach 
receiving  a  small  stream  called  Bear  or  .McDonald's  Creek,  coming  down  through 
a  k:\vi\aw  valley,  now  well  settled.  Off"  this  vi\\)v.  lie  several  rt)cky  islets  present- 
ing the  same  peculiarities  as  those  off"  ]\lendocino.  There  is  no  beach  at  the  base 
of  the  almost  perpendicular  sea  tiice. 
1. 5* 


ii 


W 


98 


COAST  I'lLOT  OF  CALIFOKNIA. 


Ill 


Ii 


The  regular  survey  of  these  heads  and  the  dangers  surrounding  them  is  in 
progn'ss.  It  is  reported  that  the  soundings  have  been  obtained  well  to  the  west- 
ward of  the  caiw;  should  such  prove  correct,  the  fact  will  be  of  importance  to  ves- 
sels, especially  steamers  bound  north  or  south,  when  near  the  coast  and  enveloped 
in  fog,  as  it  would  enable  them  to  judge  of  their  pohition  and  change  their  course. 
Tebenkoffs  chart  has  forty-nine  fathoms  over  sandy  bottom,  nearly  three  miles, 
outside  of  any  rocks  laid  down  ofif  the  cape. 

After  passing  it  the  shore  changes  to  a  straight,  low,  sandy  head,  with  valleys 
running  some  distance  inland. 

We  have  named  this  headland  Cape  Fortunas,  to  avoid  the  repetition  of  Men- 
docino, and  to  commemorate  Ferrelo's  discoveries. 

La  Pdrou^e  calls  this  cape  Punta  Gorda. 

Eel  River  is  a  small  stream  with  a  bar  at  its  mouth,  and  distant  fourteen  mile^j 
from  Cape  ^lendocino.  It  is  very  contracted  and  crooked,  receiving  the  waters  of  a 
great  many  slues  near  its  mouth,  and  draining  a  most  fertile  valley,  which  is  rap- 
idly filling  up  with  settlers. 

An  extensive  business  in  salmon  fisheries  is  carried  on  near  the  mouth. 

The  first  vessel  that  entered  it  was  a  scjhooner,  in  the  spring  of  1850,  when 
searching  for  Humboldt  Bay.  She  thumped  over  the  bar,  which  is  said  to  have 
nine  feet  of  water  upon  it  at  high  tide.  A  greater  depth  of  water  is  claimed  on 
the  bar,  six  and  a  half  feet  having  been  found  at  low  water;  and  several  cargoes 
of  i)roduce  have  been  carried  out.  The  Indian  name  for  the  river  is  Wee-ot.  It 
rises  by  two  heads  iu  about  latitude  39°  30',  about  thirty  miles  from  th&  coast,  aiid 
runs  nearly  parallel  with  it.  One  head  of  a  small  branch  called  the  South  Fork 
is  only  five  miles  from  the  coast,  a  short  distance  south  of  Shelter  Cove. 

nUMBOLDT   BAY. 

The  entrance  to  this  bay  lies  twenty-one  miles  from  Sugar  Loaf  Islet,  off  Cape 
Mendocino,  and  the  bar  north  by  east  twenty-one  miles  from  lilunt's  Kocks.  The 
bar  is  one  and  a  cpiarter  mile  from  the  entrance  between  the  sand  i)oints,  or  two 
miles  from  the  southwest  and  highest  point  of  Red  Blufl",  which  is  the  second  bluff 
abo\'e  IjcI  River.  Ijike  all  the  bar  rivers  on  this  coast,  it  undergoes  irregular 
changes,  depending  much  upon  the  prevalence,  direction,  and  strength  of  the 
wijul.  Early  in  18.51  it  bore  northwest,  distant  two  miles  from  Red  IJluff,  and 
about  half  a  mile  frou)  the  beach  of  the  north  spit.  Three  and  a  half  fathoms 
were  found  upon  it,  with  a  width  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards  between  the 
three-fathom  curves,  retaining  nearly  the  same  width,  and  running  on  a  southeast 
course  towards  the  bluff,  but  approaching  closer  to  the  north  than  to  tlie  south 
spit.  When  between  the  two,  the  depth  of  water  was  increased  to  eleven  fathoms, 
suddenly  shoaling  to  four  fathoms  inside.  Vessels  kept  the  north  spit  within  one 
huiulred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards  on  the  port  hand  for  two  or  three 
miles  after  entering.  In  the  fall  of  1852  the  bar  w.is  reported  to  have  moved  to 
the  northward  about  its  entire  width,  and  the  ranges  for  going  in,  as  laid  down  by 


uU 


Jtsi 


tlieni  is  ill 
a  the  Avest- 
uce  to  ves- 

euveloi)ed 
leir  course. 
Iirce  miles. 

ith  valleys 

)u  of  Meu- 


teen  uiile'j 
ateis  of  a 
icli  is  rap- 

th. 

^50,  wlieu 
to  have 
aimed  on 
I  cargoes 
p<-'-ot.  It 
oast,  aiul 
ith  Fork 


off  Cape 
ks.    The 
,  or  two 
•ml  bluif 
rregular 
of  the 
uff,  and 
fathoms 
een  the 
ntheast 
3  sonth 
itlioms, 
liin  one 
ir  three 
•ved  to 
)wu  by 


■w 


HN 


1'      I 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


99 


the  sni'voy  of  the  previous  year,  were  entirely  useh'ss.     In  the  winter  of  18.j;5-'.)  1 
the  liiir  clinii^ietl  iimch,  and  often  suddenly.     In  the  si)riiif«- of  IS.TMf  was  more 
than  its  jofvious  widtli  to  the  southward  of  its  i>osition  in  1S,")1,  and  the  depth  of 
water  had  decreased,  until  in  June  of  that  year,  when  it  was  over  half  a  mile  in 
extent,  with  oidy  sixteen  feet  of  water  at  high  tide.     A  bare  siH>t  then  showed  at 
the  lowest  tides  west-northwest  of  the  end  of  the  south  spit.     In  that  year  a 
stran}>(^  brij^  thumped  over  the  nmtli  sands  wliile  on  the  eoiirse  prescribed  by  the 
sailin}>-  directions  of  1S,">1.     In  1S57  less  than  thirteen  feet  at  hifjh  tide  (iould  bo 
found  upon  it,  and  its  extent  was  very  much  increased.     Eventually  a  deep  and 
mirrow  channel  was  cut  throuj;h.     In  April  1S<>!),  the  bar  had  suflicient  water  for 
the  largest  bunber-laden  vessels,  but  within  the  previous  two  months  had  moved 
a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  northward  of  its  winter  i>ositio»r,  and  in  the  same  time 
the  north  })oiiit  of  the  entrance  had  f(»rmed  nearly  half  a  nule  to  the  southward. 
About  lSr>U  a  steam-tug  was  placed  upon  the  bay,  and  has  rendered  the  nu)st 
eHicient  service  in  determining  the  dianges  of  the  bar.    When  vessels  are  seen 
approaching  the  bar  a  tlag  is  hoisted  on  lied  Ijlutt",  and  the  tug  goes  out  to  take 
them  in.    If  it  is  breaking  so  heavily  on  the  bar  that  she  cannot  get  through  it,  and 
it  is  yei  practicable  for  the  vessel  to  run  in,  she  takes  up  a  ])osition  and  hoists  her 
flag  as  a  signal  for  the  vessel  to  steer  for  her.     She  is  invaluable  in  towing  out 
the  deejtly  laden  lund)er  vessels,  as  the  summer  winds  blow  directly  in  the  channel. 
In  .Tune  IS-jl,  a  brig  (h'ejdy  laden  with  s]>ars  lay  in  the  bay  waiting  for  an  oppor- 
tunity to  get  (mt.    She  had  made  several  attemi»ts  to  beat  through  the  then  narrow 
channel,  but  always  failed,  and  had  in  this  manner  (X'cupied  thirty  one  days.     In 
]\Iarch   isr»4,  the  C!oast  Survey  party  laid  fourteen  days  off  the  entrance,  and 
passed  in  Avhen  the  water  v.as  breaking  on  the  bar.    A  preliminary  chart  of  the 
entrance  to  Ihnnboldt  Bay  was  issued  from  the  Coast  Survey  Ottice  in  1851.     It 
was  subsetpu'utly  resiirveyed,  and  the  chart  of  18r)8  shows  ihat  the  bar  was  one 
and  three-eighths  mile  from  the  highest  part  of  lied  Bluff,  which  bore  east  by 
south  half  south.     It  then  had  a  dei»th  of  three  and  three-(piartei's  fathoms,  and 
a  M'idth  of  six  hundred  yards  between  the  three-fathom  lines.    North  ami  south 
breakers  marked  as  usual  the  boundaries  of  the  channel,  which  ran  straight  and 
close  to  the  south  spit. 

In  Ai)ril  ]8r>0,  we  received  the  following  information  in  regard  to  it  from  an 
assistant  who  was  there  with  us  in  1851  and  185-1:  "The  bar  is  now  a  mile  south 
of  where  it  was  in  1851,  three-(piarters  of  a  nule  north  of  where  it  was  last  winter, 
and  has  live  fathoms  upon  it.  All  the  north  jHiint  of  the  entrance  is  washed  away, 
including  the  small  higoon  on  the  inner  side."  A  large  can  buoy  is  anchored  (I8GU) 
in  sixteen  fathoms  of  water,  west  three-cpiarters  north  from  the  bar,  west  half 
north  from  the  light  house,  and  northwest  by  west  three-quarters  west  from  Bed 
Blidf.  It  has  a  very  heavy  anciior  and  mooring-chain,  and  vessels  frequently  hold 
on  by  it  in  thick,  unfavorable  weather.  Vessels  c(miing  up  Ww  coast  in  sixti'cii 
fathoms,  in  moderately  thick,  dark  weather,  can  hardly  fail  to  lind  this  mark. 

The  best  advice  we  can  offer  in  regard  to  entering  the  bay  Is  to  icaitfor  the  tug. 


li 


1(K)  COAST  PILOT  OF  (^AIJKOKNIA. 

From  oxiK'rimciits  iiiiKlc  in  isril  we  CouihI  tlie  cbh  ciHTcnl  to  niii  llii'«'t>  miles 
\M'V  lioiir,  with  a  inaximiim  velocity  ol"  lour  iiii<l  live  miles  i)ef\veeii  the  points  of 
en'tranee.  In  ISd?  we  lonnd  the  ebb  cnnvnt  running  to  the  west-northwest  from 
th(^  bar,  settin}"'  the  vessel  well  oil"  shore. 

In  IStJl  the  steamship  Columbia  wasdetaiiiod  in  tlie  bay  sixdaysby  unusimlly 
lieavy  weather;  at  the  same  time  a  lumber-laden  bark  was  unabh*  to  eioss  tiio 
bar  for  twenty  live  days.  The  tirst  reported  ease  of  any  vessel  being  struck  l»y 
lightning  on  this  coast  hai)pened  at  Humboldt,  February  2."»,  1801. 

ni'MBOLDT  HAY  LlGIIT-IIOl^SK. 

This  building  is  erected  on  the  north  spit,  tlircc-cjnarters  of  a  mile  north  of 
the  entrance,  and  abcuit  midway  between  the  bay  and  sea-shores.  It  consists  of  a 
k»'e|)er's  dwelling,  of  one  and  a  half  stories,  with  a  tower  rising  twenty-one  teet 
above  the  centre  of  the  roof;  l)oth  being  |>lastered  and  whitewashed,  and  sur- 
mounted by  an  iron  lantern  jiainted  red.  The  light  is  a  Jiied  icltitv  liijlit  of  tlui 
fourth  order  of  the  system  of  Fresnel,  and  illuminates  the  entires  hori/on.  It  is 
tifty-tlnx'c  feet  above  high  water  spring  tides,  and  should  be  seen  In  clear  weather 
from  u  height  of — 

10  feet  at  a  distance  of  IL*  miles. 

2i)  feet  at  a  distance  of  l.'U  miles. 

.'}(>  feet  at  a  distance  of  14A  miles. 

Its  geographical  position,  as  determined  by  the  Coast  Survey,  is: 

O  '  " 

Latitude 40  4(5  (KJ.O  U(n-th. 

Longitude IL'4  12  L'l     west. 

/(.       III.         8, 

Or,  in  time 8  10  4!).4: 

Magnetic  variation,  17°  00'  e.ast,  in  July  185.'5,  increasing  about  1'  yearly. 

The  light,  which  is  a  secondary  sea-coast,  was  Urst  exhibited  December  20, 
1850,  and  slutws  from  sunset  to  sunrise. 

A  light  on  ]{ed  IJhilf,  which  is  nearly  one  hundred  feet  high,  would  always 
serve  as  a  leading  range,  as  the  tlag-statf  and  ensign  placed  there  are  now  thus 
used  by  the  pilots.  It  would  be  distinguishable  readily  at  sea,  when  the  present 
one  might  be  obscured  by  the  mist  hanging  over  the  surf  on  the  beach.  During 
the  day  the  white  buildings  would  be  a  capital  mark  against  the  gi'eeu  hills  and 
trees  in  the  background.  This  view,  now  and  formerly  expressed,  has  been  repeat- 
edly and  earnestly  urged  upon  our  attention  by  uuiuy  captains,  merchants,  and 
the  i»ilots  of  Ilumbohlt  Bay. 

Tides. — The  cori-ected  establisluuent,  or  mean  interval  between  the  time  of 
the  moon's  transit  and  the  time  of  high  Avater,  is  12/t.  2m.,  and  the  dilfereuce 
between  the  greatest  and  least  intervals  is  l/(.  llw.  The  mean  rise  and  fall  of 
tides  is  4.4  feet;  of  spring  tides,  ;"».5  fei't;  and  of  neap  tides,  3.5  feet.  The  mean 
duration  of  the  tlood  is  (»//.  l!t)«.;  and  of  the  ebb,  iih.  00/h. 


C(UST  PILOT  OF  CALirOKNIA. 


101 


Tli«'  {jrcntcst  observed  dilVereiiee  Itetweeii  tlie  two  low  wiiters  of  one  dny  was 
4,1  I'eet;  iiiid  tlie  ^ireatest  dinereiice  between  the  lii;;lier  lii;;li  iind  lowei'  low 
waters  of  one  day  was  !».0  i'eet. 

To  Iind  the  times  o\'  lii;;Ii  and  low  waters,  lirst  eonipiite  the  times  I'ui'  Astoria, 
iind  from  tlie  nnndters  so  obtained  sabtniet  forty  minutes  foi'  Humboldt  l>ay. 

The  bay  is  situated  immediately  behind  the  low  sandjspits  and  dunes,  and 
extends  nine  miles  north  and  four  miles  south  of  the  entrance;  beinff  (HUitructed 
to  h'ss  than  half  a  mile  in  width  between  tins  south  spit  and  Ked  IMulT,  it  then 
expands  to  nearly  three  miles,  and  runs  a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  eastward  of 
Table,  DliitV.  The  sin;ile  ehanuel  runninj^  into  this  part  of  the  bay  divides  into 
two  crooked  oiu's,  which  contain  froui  orn-  to  tiiree  fathoms  of  water;  all  the  rest 
shows  a  baie  mud  Hat  at  low  tides.  Abreast  (»f  the  entrance  it  is  nearly  a  mile  in 
width,  with  extensive  sands,  bare  at  low  tides,  lyin;,Mnidway  between  the  oi>positt) 
shores,  and  runnin<(  nearly  parallel  Avith  them.  To  the  northward  its  averaj^e 
width  is  half  a  mile  for  a  distance  of  three  and  a  lialf  miles.  It  then  ex[)ands  into 
ji  hn};e,  shallow  sheet  of  water,  haviu};-  two  or  three  crooked  channels  throu;;h  it, 
but  the  j;Teater  part  beinj;  bare  at  h)w  tides,  showinj;-  extensive  mud  tiats,  bor- 
dered by  a  f^rassy  Hat  nearly  a  mile  in  width.  Jn  the  channel  way  close  to  the 
north  spit,  not  h'ss  than  three  fathoms  nuiy  be  carried,  increasing'  for  three  miles 
to  six  and  a  half  fathoms.  One  mile  ii(>rth  of  the  entrance,  and  on  the  eastern 
side,  ent«'rs  ii  small  stream  called  Elk  Jtiver.  Two  miles  north  of  the  entrance, 
and  on  the  east  side,  is  situated  the  town  of  Ijncksjjort,  olV  which  a  depth  of  three 
and  a  half  fathoms  is  found  within  one  hnndn'd  and  lifty  yards  of  tlu!  shore.  Ves- 
sels are  got  alouf^side  the  saw-mill  wharf  here  at  hif;h  tide  to  load;  at  low  tides 
they  rest  upon  tlie  muddy  bottom.  The  military  station  of  Fort  IIund)oldt  is  on 
a  reservation  on  the  bluff  about  one  hundred  feet  hij^h,  and  immediately  behind 
the  town.  On  the  samii  si<h',  and  four  miles  north  of  the  entrance  istheto.vi. 
Eureka,  oil"  which  is  a  [Mirtionof  the  channel,  havin;;'  nearly  three  fathoms  in  it,  1.  i. 
no  channel  reachiu},' it  havinf>' more  than  one  and  a  half  fathoms.  The  town  w.is 
hiid  out  before  this  latter  fact  was  .liscovered.  Vessels  lie  at  tin;  wharves,  rest- 
ing on  tli(^  nmd  at  low  tide.  Abreast  of  Eureka  lie  several  low  marsJiy  islands 
cut  up  by  slues  and  ponds.  The  larg<'st,  called  Indian  Island,  is  about  a  mile 
long  (northeast)  by  half  a  mile  in  width.  It  is  marked  by  two  hillocks,  sur- 
mounted by  dumps  of  trees,  near  which  Av<(re  (IS.")!)  <  '  <  lal  wretched  Indian  huts. 
The  smaller  islands  lie  between  this  ami  tin;  eastern  shore  and  paiallel  with  it. 
Areata,  formerly  LTniimtown,  is  situated  on  the  northeast  shore  of  the  l)ay,  ami  can 
only  be  reached  by  boats  at  high  tide.  It  is  the  starting  point  for  the  Trinity  and 
Klamath  mines.  From  it  an  extensive  wharf  stretches  far  out  over  the  nnul  tlat, 
Avhicli  vessels  can  reach  at  high  tides. 

The  southern  spit  from  the  entrance  to  Table  I^lntT  does  not  average  one- 
quarter  of  a  mile  in  width;  is  formed  of  low  sand  dunes  and  giJissy  hillocks,  and 
bordered  on  the  bay  sid(!  by  maish.  At  the  southern  -,  \i:<'mity  rises  Table  IJIulV, 
which  the  name  well  describes,  to  a  height  of  about  two  humlred  feet,  its  western 


i 


^1^ 

H 
It 


102 


COAST  PILOT  (W  (^VLll'OllNIA. 


point  iioai'ly  roacliiiiff  flic  soa  beach,  and  foriniii};a  {^ood  landmark  for  niakin;,'  tli« 
bay.  I'^ivo  miles  cast  of  it  llie  bills  c(»nimence  risiiifr.  Abr«'ast  oC  the  iioilli  end 
of  the  sctiith  spit  rises  lied  Illull',  piescntiiifj  towards  the  enlraiie<'  a  perpendicular 
face,  composed  of  sand  and  {jravel  colored  by  the  d(>composition  of  iron  ore  near 
its  snrface,  which  is  ninety-six  feet  above  hijjh  water,  and  destitute  (»f  tice  or 
brush.  The  bay  front  of  the  bluft"  is  about  one-third  of  a  mile  lon^',  ^'radually 
decliuin}''  to  the  low,  tiat  land  to  the  north,  and  also  falliii}?  away  to  tlu^  south  and 
cast.  On  this  blutf  the  ))ilots  have  a  tlaj;-stalV  to  rauf^o  with  known  jioints  of 
trees  beyond,  by  Aviiich  they  cross  the  bar  and  keep  the  run  of  its  ehanfjes..  At 
the  base  of  the  hi^jhest  i)art  of  this  blutf  we  discovered,  in  ISol,  a  tooth  and  part 
of  tlie  tusk  of  the  primeval  elephant.  The  low  land  on  the  eastern  shore  above 
Ited  Hlurt"  averajjes  half  a  mile  in  width,  and  runs  as  far  as  Hureka,  gradually 
chaufiin^'  to  marsh,  and  bounded  by  plateaus  ami  hills  covered  with  wood.  The 
iiortli  spit  averages  half  a  mile  in  width,  and  its  southern  extremity  is  (!om|»osed 
of  sand  dunes  and  grassy  hilhxiks  disp<»sed  in  a  marked  manner  parallel  with  tiio 
direction  of  the  northwest  winds.  Two  miles  from  the  entrance,  trees  cover  the 
hillocks  and  run  northward  one  mile,  when  a  space  of  ii  mile  occurs  without  them. 
After  that  tliey  continue  along  the  shore. 

It  has  been  erronecuisly  asserted  that  this  bay  was  discovered  from  sea  in 
Ajn'il  1850,  and  by  land  in  1SH»;  but  the  following  account  from  Ti'benkolf's 
descrii>tion  of  the  charts  in  his  atlas  published  in  181S,  with  a(!cr  auyiug  chart 
containing  soundings  and  details  of  Indian  Island,  &c.,  settles  tl  cstion  : 

"About  eight  and  a  half  miles  from  the  port  of  Trinidan  is  situated  the 
entrance  to  the  Hay  of  Indians,  called  entrance  of  llezanotf.  liy  the  colonial  doc- 
uments of  the  Itussian-Anu'rican  Company,  it  appears  that  it  was  discovered  by 
citizens  of  the  United  States.  In  ISOG  there  was  in  it,  (on  an  American  vessel,) 
wider  command  of  AVinschep,  a  sea-otter  party  of  Aleutians,  under  the  direction 
of  Slabotchikolf,  which  was  met  by  the  Indians  inimically.  This  bay  is  not  fully 
described,  but  it  is  known  that  it  is  very  large;  somewhat  resembles  the  Bay  of 
San  Francisco,  only  the  entrance  to  it  for  vessels  of  large  class  is  not  convenient, 
and  with  strong  southwest  winds  it  is  even  impossible  with  any  vessel.  The 
depth  at  the  entrance  is  two  sajhen,  (twelve  feet,)  and  then  it  breaks  on  the  bar." 

He  placed  the  south  point  of  the  entrance  in  latitude  40°  oo'A,  longitude 
124°  08'.0. 

It  was  named  Ilezanolf  after  the  Russian  ambassador  to  Japan  in  1804,  and 
vho  had  inliuenccd  the  Emperor  Paul  not  to  break  up  the  Kussian- American 
Company. 

The  present  name  was  given  to  the  hay  in  1850,  by  those  rediscovering  it 
from  sea. 

The  Indian  name  of  the  bay  is  Qual-a-waloo. 

Mad  Rher  is  said  to  emiity  into  the  sea  about  a  mile  north  of  the  north- 
western part  of  Humboldt  r>ay.  It  averages  ahout  one  hundred  yards  in  width, 
with  a  bar  at  its  entrance  that  prevents  egress;  but  the  vast  amount  of  timber  in 


r  ninlviiif;  tlie 
tlut  iioi'tli  end 
IM>r]i('ii(liculiir 
iron  ore  iiciir 
itc  (»r  tree  or 
iifj,  {.'liidiiiilly 
Mio  Hoiitli  and 
iwn  ]ioiiit.s  of 
cliiinfit'H.  At 
)otli  iind  pint 
hIkhc  above, 
>ka,  )j;radnally 
1  wood.  Tli(! 
'  is  (toniposcd 
alk'l  witli  the 
H's  <'ovt'r  tiio 
ivithoiit  tlieiu. 


d  from  sea  in 
1  Tt'l>('nkoir',s 
"anying  chart 

estion  : 

situatod  Hio 
!  colonial  doc- 
iliscovcred  by 
I'rican  vessel,) 
:•  tlie  direction 
ay  is  not  tally 
les  the  Bay  of 
ot  convenient, 
'  vessel.  The 
:s  on  the  bar." 
5'.4,  longitude 


in  1804,  and 
sian-Ainericau 

discovering  it 


of  the  iiorth- 
ards  in  width, 
it  of  timber  in 


COAST  riLOT  OF  CALTFOKXIA. 


103 


the  valley  lias  found  a  passage  by  a  small  canal  to  the  northwest  point  of  rium- 
boldt  ]}ay.  A  deep  slue  from  the  latter  is  said  to  approach  quite  close  to  Mad 
Eiver,  thus  favoring  the  execution  of  such  a  project. 

This  river  is  the  Eio  de  los  Tortolas  of  Heceta  and  Bodega,  1775. 

TUINIDAD   HEAD   AKD   BAl'. 

Trinidad  Head  lies  north  half  west  seventeen  and  a  half  miles  from  the 
bar  of  Jluiiiboldr  Bay,  and  north  thirty-nine  miles  Irom  Cape  Mendocino.  The 
low  sand  beach  otl'  Humboldt  continues  past  Mad  Kivcr  to  within  a  coui)le  of 
miles  of  Trinidad  Bay,  when  it  changes  to  a  blun',  guarded  by  innumerable  rocks. 
For  tlie  entire  distance  of  the  low  beach  a  depth  of  from  ten  to  lifteeu  fathoms 
may  be  found  one  mile  from  the  shore. 

The  bay  or  roadstead  of  Trinidad  is  very  contracted ;  but  having  deep  water, 
aiid  all  dangers  visible,  forms  a  moderatf'ly  good  summer  anchorage.  Tljo 
"  head,"  forming  the  western  shore  of  the  roadstead,  and  a  prominent  mark  when 
seen  from  close  in,  is  about  three  hundred  ami  seveuty-tive  feet  high,  covered 
with  a  low,  thick  undergrowth  of  scrub  bushes,  has  very  steei)  sides,  and  eight 
fathrais  close  to  its  southern  base.  Otf  the  western  face,  for  nearly  half  a  mile 
out,  lie  several  high,  rocky  islets,  with  one  one-half  a  mile  south  of  it,  but  having 
nine  fathoms  close  co  it.  FroiP  the  south  face  eastward  to  the  three-fathom  curve 
the  distance  is  one  mile,  and  the  depth  of  the  bight  to  the  northward  of  this  line 
is  about  half  a  mile,  Avith  half  a  dozen  rot;  ■>  lying  outside  the  three-fathom  line, 
but  Avel'  above  Avater.  In  the  ncu'tl.ern  part  of  tiu^  bay  there  is  a  sand  beach 
extendin- about  half  a  mile;  thence  eastward  the  shore  is  very  rocky,  tlie  bluff 
being  about  three  hundred  feet  high,  and  covered  with  a  heavy  growth  of  timber. 
The  town,  formerly  a  place  of  some  promise,  fronts  on  the  northwest  part  of  the 
roadstead,  and  the  boat-landing  is  on  J.m  north  side  of  a  round  knoll  nudcing  out 
about  one  iiundrod  yards  from  the  low  neck  running  to  the  "head."  A  wharf  is 
now  built  heie,  at  which  vessels  lie  to  load  lumber.  A  very  considerable  quantity 
of  seaweed  lies  otf  the  shore. 

In  working  into  the  anchorage  beat  in  boldly  past  the  outermost  rock  until  the 
rock  Just  off  the  eastern  side  of  the  head  is  in  range  with  the  knoll  (having  a  few 
trees  upon  it)  between  the  town  and  the  head,  with  the  south  face  of  the  head 
bi'aring  west  by  north,  Jind  aiu-hor  in  seven  fathoms,  tiard  bottom,  within  one- 
third  of  a  mile  of  the  rock  and  head,  having  the  ne  k  visible  to  the  westward  of 
the  knoll,  and  a  sugar-loaf  lock  beyond  the  neck  showing  over  it.  A  swell  will 
generally  be  found  setting  in.  In  winter  it  is  a  dangerous  anchorage,  and  if  a 
vesscd  is  unliu'kily  caught,  her  chances  of  riding  out  a  southeaster  are  very  few. 
Several  Spanish  vessels  were  wrecked  here  when  it  was  visited  by  them,  and  a 
nund)er  of  vessels  have  been  lost  within  tin-  last  eight  years.  In  reUru-ry  1S.51, 
the  bark  Aicadia  was  totally  lost  in  a  southeast  gale,  her  ground  tackie  being 
insufli<Ment  to  hold  her. 

A  chart  of  Trinidad  Bay  is  pulilished  by  the  Coast  Surv»'y. 


Ilh 


T|7^ 


104  COAST  PILOT  OF  CAL11'X)I{N1A. 

TIic  socondary  asfroiioiniciil  station  of  the  Coast  Snrvoy  was  on  tlio  nock  near 
tlip  town.     Its  tf('Of;Tai)hiral  i)ositi(»n  is: 

o         '  " 

Latitntlc H  0.}  L'(M»  north. 

Lonf^itndc, 121  OS  (»,S     west. 

h.  m.     H. 
Or,  in  time S  1(»  ;{L'.5. 

The  town  tliirinj''  the  wintci"  is  nearly  (h'serted,  hut  a  brisk  lra(h'  is  carried  on 
in  snnniier.  Tlie  connection  witli  San  Francisco  by  steamers  is  now  rej^ular. 
The  land  in  tliis  vi  inity  is  very  rich,  and  well  adapted  to  aj^ricMllnre.  The  red- 
wood trees  yiow  aroniid  it,  and  attain  an  enorinons  size.  Tlie  stnni])  of  one  of 
which  we  measured  was  about  twenty  feet  in  diameter,  aiul  a  dozen  trees  stand- 
inji  in  the  vicinity  avei-aijiMl  over  ten  feet.  One  is  allirnied  to  be  standinji'  on  the 
bank  of  a  small  stream  at  tbe  southeast  part  of  the  bay,  that  measuics  over 
ninety  feet  in  circumference.  The  bark  of  thes(^  trees  has  a  lhi<Uness  of  from 
eifj'ht  to  fourteen  inches;  they  f^row  i)erfectly  straij;ht,  retaininj;'  their  thickness 
to  a  i;Toat  heijiht,  bej^in  to  branch  at  lifty  or  one  hnndri'd  feet,  an<l  frccinenlly 
attain  two  luni  Ired  and  lifty  feet  in  height. 

'vl'oit  Trinidad"  was  discovered  June  10,  177.5,  by  Ileccta  and  Uodena,  and 
placed  in  latitude  11°  07'  north.  Near  it  they  place  a  stream  which  they  call  the 
Eio  de  los  Tortolas,  or  rijicon  Kiver ;  this  is  now  called  Mad  l\iver. 

It  was  visited  in  INLay  1793,  by  Vancouver,  who  says,  (\o\.  11,  \y,\<xi>  L»ir>:)  "In 
an  excursion  made  by  Mr.  Menzies  to  the  hill  composiu}^  the  prqjectinj>'  headland 
that  ftu'ius  the  northwest  si(h'  of  the  bay,  he  found,  af>reeably  with  Senor  3Iau- 
relli's  descrii)tion,  the  (wooden)  cross  which  the  Spaniards  had  erected  on  their 
takiujj  lutssessiou  of  the  port;  and  thoui;li  it  was  in  a  cei'taiu  state  of  decay,  it 
admitted  of  his  copying"  the  Ibllowiiig  inscription:  '■  Carolun  HI.  Del  ({.  Jlys^mni- 
anim  iiV.r.' " 

Vancouver  placed  ii  in  latitude  11°  01'  ncuth. — (Vol.  I,  payc  200.) 

The  Indian  nam*'  of  the  bay  is  Sho-ran. 

Ill  sonu'  Ameiican  majts,  antecedent  to  the  Coast  Survey  determinations  on 
the  Pacilic,  the  indentation  of  the  coast  between  .Alendocino  and  Trinidad  was 
called  "15ay  of  Trinidad." 

The  shore  runninjj  lunthwest  by  north  from  Trinidad  Head  for  live  miles  is 
xcmarkably  broken  ami  rocky,  which  iudiu'cd  Vancouver  to  call  its  in)rthern 
extremity  llocky  Point.  lie  placed  it  in  41°  08'.  About  om^  mile  olf  it  lie  several 
rocks  that  are  sometinu's  known  as  the  "Turtles."  Tebeidvoff  gives  sixty-live 
lathoms  three  and  a  half  miles  broad  (»tf  this  broken  shore. 

In  January  KtO;},  Vizcaino's  vessels  separated  during  heavy  Aveather,  and 
the  smaller  sailed,  under  Antonio  Flores,  the  |)ilot,  to  the  northward  in  search  of 
Vizcaino;  and  when  in  latitude  11°,  with  a  gale  from  the  southwest,  he  ran  before 
it  until  he  found  shelter  behind  a  great  rock,  wiiere  he  anchored. 

l'"'rom  liocky  Toint  the  shore  takes  a  gentle  swee])  eastward,  making  its  great- 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALlFOKNL\.. 


105 


U's  IS 

llU'l'Il 

,-(ivo 

iiiid 
•li  of 


est  iii(UMitiitioii  at  the  north  ciul  of  the  oiico  tiinioiis  Gohl  JJhiH',  in  hititudo  -IP  27' 
iioitli,  iiihI  lon^itiKh^  124°  03'  west,  and  then  trcndinfj:  westward  to  CreswMit  City, 
(lold  Uhill'liasiin  extent  often  niihis,  and  is  very  l)<>hl  and  lii^Ii. 

ISelween  Koeky  Point  and  (rilion  lilnlV,  uliieli  is  th(^  lirst  one  to  the  north- 
ward, there  is  a  stretch  of  Utw  sanil  beach,  iinniediately  Iteiiind  wliich  is  an  exten- 
.sive  laji'ooii  several  niili's  in  h'n};lli,  and  from  a  quarter  to  one  mile  in  widlli.  It 
lies  pai-alh'l  with  tlio  b(?ach,  and  at  some  seasons  is  not  conuooted  with  the  ocean, 
hut  .at  others  an  opening  exists  at  the  northern  extreniity. 

Tlie  Fndian  name  of  this  hi{><M)n  is  ylO-sho'-slio-ran. 

]if<l<1iii(j  liocl:—W\u'n  ahreast  of  Rocky  Point,  ah )nt  hititiide  41°  08',  Red- 
ding liock  is  visihh>  from  a  vessel's  (h'ck,  and  with  the  morning  sun  shining  njion  it 
presents  the  ai)pearan('e  A'  a  whitish  cone  of  e((iial  sides  and  base.  When  se(.'u 
froni  the  west-southwest  (eonii)ass)  the  northern  face  is  nearly  perpendicular  aiul 
the  southern  lain'  j^lopes  about  one  in  two,  with  a  Avhitisli  surface  and  (hirk  base. 
Its  ek'vation  is  eigiity-three  feet  ami  it  lies  live  miles  lnoad  otV  vJold  JJlulf,  in 
latitude  lio  L'l',  ami  longitud<^  121°  10'.  It  is  a  single,  large,  rocky  islet  about  two 
hundr<Ml  feet  high,  and  rejtorted  to  have  dee])  water  all  around  it,  with  no  outly- 
ing dangers;  but  its  vicinity  has  not  been  surveyed.  Vancouver  places  it  in  lati- 
tude 41°  2iV  on  his  chart,  and  four  miles  oil  shore;  but  in  the  narrative;  states  tho 
distance  at  half  a  league,  and  that  it  is  half  a  mile  in  cinuiit.  His  track  lies 
inside  of  it.  We  have  been  informed  that  a  reef,  commencing  at  the  shoie  two 
miles  above  the  rock,  stretches  out  a  short  distaiu;e  towards  it.  Tebeukolf  calls  it 
IMrd  Rock;  it  received  its  present  mnne  in  1810  or  LSoO, 

KLAMATH   IJIVKK. 

Two  miles  oft"  shore  from  Rocky  Point  to  tl      nouth  of  the  Klamath  River 
the  depth  of  water  varies  from  eighteen  to  ten  falhoiu^.     lietween  Redding  Rod 
and  the  Klamath  Tebeukolf  gives  thirty-five  and  thirty  fallioui    mIhkU  tiiree  mmUm 
otf  shore. 

Tlu!  mouth  of  this  river  is  in  latitude  41°  33'  north,  longitude  121°  O.V  w»'st. 
It  is,  perhaps,  two  hundred  yards  wide,  having  a  long  sand-si»it  on  the  south  side 
running  northwest,  and  i)araliel  to  the  high  hills  that  form  the  uortli  simrc. 
South  of  the  entrance  for  a  mile  and  a  half  are  outlyin,";  rocks,  and  at  the  north 
side  of  the  entrance  lie  several  others.  It  is  reported  to  have  two  and  a  half 
fathoms  upon  the  bar.  Upon  passing  it  in  18.">3,  within  less  than  a  mile,  the 
-was  breaking  across  it,  and  no  ai)pcarance  of  a  safe  channel  was  presented.  ill 

Bchooners  enter  it;  but  we  have  been  assured  that  the  mouth  was  coni[»letely 
closed  in  the  winters  of  1851  and  18G0,  and  that  the  bar  changes  with  every 
changi;  of  heavy  weather. 

]\lcArthur  re])orted  in  18."i0:  "The  river  has  seventeen  feet  on  the  bar  at  mean 
low  water.     It  is  not  dillicudt  of  entrance  with  a  good  breeze,  but  very  dillicult  to 
get  out  of,  the  current  riuming'  so  strong  that  sailing  vessels  must  «!ome  out  steru 
14* 


(t 


wur? 


106 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFOENIA. 


foromost  to  be  steored."  He  did  not,  however,  enter  the  river.  In  18G0  the  tng 
from  IlnmboUlt  IJny  endeavored  to  enter,  but  couhl  not  find  sntticient  water, 
although  it  was  very  smooth;  when  tlie  swell  came  in  on  the  second  day,  she  had 
to  throw  her  remaining  freight  overboard  and  ])nt  to  sea. 

Thi'ee  or  four  miles  northward  of  the  Klamath  is  a  small  sharp  indentation  at 
the  mouth  of  a  guhrh,  off  which  lie  one  large  and  several  small  rocks;  but  from  a 
distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half  we  were  unable  to  determine  whether  any  stream 
opened  here.  It  has.,  however,  received  the  name  of  False  Klamath,  because  it 
has  misled  small  coasters  seeking  for  the  Klamath.  altlK  igh  there  is  no  sand 
point  «)n  either  side,  as  exists  at  the  latter.  The  State  map  of  ('alifornia.  has  a 
creek  called  Ahmen  opening  here.  The  coast  continues  bold  for  several  miles, 
when  the  hills  begin  to  rece(hi  and  the  shores  present  many  pleasant  slopes,  unin- 
cumbered with  forests  ami  under  cultivation.  Tlu-  shore  is  low  and  regularly 
s\vc('i)s  to  the  westward  for  a  couple  of  miles,  forming  the  roadstead,  which  will 
be  next  described. 

CRESCENT   CITY  BAY. 

This,  the  most  dangerous  of  the  roadsteads  usually  resorted  to  on  the  coast, 
has  acquired  much  impcntance  on  account  of  the  town  (Crescent  City)  being  the 
depot  for  the  supplies  of  miners  working  the  gold  diggings  on  rhe  Klamath, 
Trinity,  and  Salmon  Kivers.  It  is  filled  with  sunken  rocks  ami  reefs,  and  has  a 
goodly  number  showing  above  water.  No  vessel  should  think  of  guning  an  anchor- 
age here  without  a  pilot,  or  perfect  knowledge  of  the  hidden  dangi  !'s.  No  sr.nkeu 
rocks  are  now  known  to  exist  outside  of  the  line  of  visible  ones,  except  one  awash, 
southwest  three-quarters  west,  and  a  little  more  than  half  a  mile  distant  from  the 
lighthouse.  A  depth  of  ten  fathoms  exists  all  around  it,  and  seven  en*  ei,4ht 
fathoms  outside  of  the  \isible  rocks.  The  usual  anchorage  is  on  a  line  between 
the  light  house  and  the  north  side  of  the  large  islet  three-(iuarters  of  a  mile  eii.^t  of 
it,  in  three  and  a  (piarier  faihoms,  hard  bottom.  To  reach  this  position  r'ln  for 
the  small,  r(mnd  rock  bearing  southeast  seven-eighths  east,  sev«'n-eigliths  of  a 
mile  from  the  light-houses;  pass  it  on  the  east  side,  giving  it  a  berth  of  one  hund- 
red yards;  steer  north  by  west  one-(inarter  west  for  tliree-eighths  of  a  mile,  pass- 
ing one  Inuidred  yards  on  the  east  of  Fauntleroy  KNuk,  which  is  covered  at 
three-quarters  Hood.  If  this  ro'.ik  be  covered,  its  positi<tn  is  generally  marked  by 
a  breaker.  It  is  necessary  to  keep  it  close  aboard,  because  there  is  a  sharp  bayo- 
net rock  having  only  two  feet  of  wat<'r  upon  it,  and  two  hundred  yards  to  the 
eastward.  Head  up  for  tho  town  and  anchor  in  three  and  a  (piarter  fathoms.  To 
enter  or  leave  it  at  night,  as  is  done  by  the  n»ail  and  coasting  steamers  n  quires  a 
perfect  local  kin)wledge  of  the  dangers  and  peculiarities  of  the  landmarks.  Coast- 
ing steanu'rs,  in  line  weather,  usually  aiu-Uor  close  inshore  to  di>  liarye  freight, 
which  is  received  in  lighters. 

A  wharf  has  been  built  out  from  Battery  Point,  and  landing  is  now  easily 
effected  in  good  weather.     In  southeasters  the  breakers  wash  o\  er  it. 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFORXIA. 


107 


I 


Tliis  bay  was  first  surveyed  in  1853,  ami  again  in  1859,  from  which  our  direc- 
tions are  in  part  drawn  up,  but  principally  from  our  examination  in  1857. 
Tlie  following  rcpon  (185!))  will  show  clearly  the  dangerous  character  of  the  road- 
stead, and  the  knowleilge  required  to  enter  it:  "During  the  progress  of  the  resur- 
vey  of  Crescent  City  Harbor,  we  found  several  new,  dangerous  rocks;  but  as  they  are 
not  in  the  ch mnels  followed  by  steamers,  and  do  iu)t  interfere  with  the  anchorage 
in  use,  it  (h)es  not  seem  necessary  to  notice  them  further  in  advance  of  the  publi- 
cation of  t'"  chart,  as  eveiy  one  trading  hero  knows  that  vessels  drawing  over 
nine  feet  should  be  very  cantic/us  in  venturing  out  of  the  beaten  track.  The  rocks 
at  that  place  are  of  a  peculiar  character,  standing  isolated  like  bayonets,  with 
their  points  just  below  the  surface,  and  ready  to  pier(!e  any  unlucky  craft  that 
may  encounter  them.  After  we  finished  the  survey,  and  a  fair  way  had  been 
selected  for  a  sailing  line,  we  discovered  a  very  sharp  rock  almost  directly  in  the 
passage,  with  its  point  only  three  feet  from  the  surface,  and  deep  water  all  around 
it.  This  is  mentioned  to  show  that,  although  the  greatest  care  was  taken  in  the 
survey,  the  character  of  the  points  of  rocks  is  such  that  it  cannot  be  surprising  if 
new  ones  be  found  for  several  seasons  to  come." 

In  summer  there  is  ilways  some  swell  here,  but  in  winter  it  rolls  in  fearfully, 
and  vessels  must  choose  a  position  to  be  ready  to  run  to  sea  at  the  ai)proach  of  a 
southeaster. 

Comnumication  is  maintained  with  San  Francisco  and  other  ports  by  mail 
and  coasting  steamers,  which  formerly  carried  as  niany  passengers  and  as  much 
freight  for  this  place  as  they  did  to  the  Colnnd)ia  Kiver. 

The  town  lies  northwest  from  the  anchorage,  immediately  on  the  low  shore; 
old  drift-logs,  in  some  instances,  forming  the  foundation  for  wooden  houses.  In 
August  1853,  there  were  about  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  houses  of  all  descrip- 
tions. In  18G0,  the  [)opulation  was  five  hundred  and  fifty-three,  and  the  number 
of  houses  one  hundred  and  seventy-six. 

The  lands  adjacent  are  being  cultivated;  a  grist-mill  has  been  built  which 
turns  out  seventy-tive  bands  of  dour  per  day,  and  a  good  trail  leadh;  to  the  "  dig- 
gings" en  the  Klamath  and  Illinois  liivers. 

The  southwest  point  of  the  bay  is  ckvnted  about  twenty-five  feet  and  con- 
tinues so  to  the  westward.  The  light-house  u  erected  on  tiie  rocky  islet  about 
three  hundred  yards  from  the  point,  and  connected  with  it  at  low  tides  by  a 
broken  mass  of  rocks,  over  Avhich  a  single  foot-bridge  is  constructed. 

Tides. — The  (approximate)  corrected  establishment,  or  mean  interval  between 
the  time  of  the  moon's  transit  and  high  water,  is  lih.  i-iin.,  and  the  mean  rise 
and  fall  of  tides,  1.7  feet. 

A  hydrographic  sketch  of  Crescent  City  Harbor  appeared  in  the  Coast  Sur- 
vey report  for  1851,  and  a  maj)  of  the  harbor  ami  adjacent  coast  in  185!).  Teben- 
kofi' calls  this  bay  San  Sebastian. 


I  ■  't 


108 


COAST  riLOT  OF  CALIFOENIA. 


CUESOENT  CITY  LTailT-nOTTSE. 

The  building  consists  of  a  keopei's  dwelling  of  stone,  tlie  natural  color,  (gray,) 
and  one  and  a  half  stories  high,  with  a  low  tower  of  brick,  plastered  and  white- 
washed, rising  from  the  center  and  surniount<'d  l)y  an  iron  lantern,  painted  red. 
It  is  situated  at  the  southwest  part  of  the  roadstead  on  the  seaward  txlreniity  of 
the  island  point,  Avhicli  is  here  about  f((rty-five  feet  above  high  \vat<'r. 

The  light  is  a  ./(>«/  irJiitc  Ujjht,  caned  hi/  Jlashcs,  of  the  fourth  oruer  of  Fresnel. 
The  intervals  of  Hash  is  Im.  ;50.s'.  It  illuminates  31."»o  of  the  horizon ;  was  first 
exhibited  December  10,  I80G,  :;!i>l  shows  from  sunset  to  sunrise.  It  is  eighty  feet 
above  high-sea  level,  and  should  be  seen  in  a  favorable  state  of  the  atmosphere. 
From  a  height  of— 

10  feet  at  a  distance  of  14  miles. 

20  feet  at  a  distance  of  15A  miles. 

30  feet  at  a  distance  of  lOi  miles. 

The  geographical  position  of  the  light,  as  determined  by  the  Coast  Survey  is : 

o        '  " 

Latitude 41  44  34.2  north. 

Longitude 124  11  22    west. 

ft.     JH.      a. 
Or,  in  time 8    10  45.5. 

IMagnetic  variation,  17°  52'  east,  July  1851,  Avith  a  yearly  increase  of  1'. 
From  Cape  Mendocino  it  bears  north  by  west  seventy-nine  and  a  half  miles. 
The  secondary  astronomical  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  was  on  the  point  on  the 
land  side  of  the  light-house,  near  a  few  Indian  huts  existing  in  1853. 
Its  geographical  position  is: 

Latitude 41  44  44.0  north. 

Longitude 124  11  14     west. 

ft.    m.     s. 

Or,  in  time 8  10  44.9. 

POINT  SAINT  GEOKGE. 

This  point  lies  two  miles  west  by  north  from  Crescent  City  light.  It  is  from 
flftj  to  one  hundred  feet  high,  with  table-land  some  di.stai'ce  back.  It  is  bounded 
by  hundreds  of  rocks,  some  of  which  rise  perpendicularly  two  hundred  feet  from 
the  water.  Three  or  four  of  the  largest  present  a  renuirkably  white  a])i)earance, 
Avhich  serves  to  distinguish  this  point.  The  extensive  reef  in  its  vicinity  may  have 
led  to  confusion  among  the  old  discoverers,  by  their  confounding  it  with  Cai)o 
Orford. 

Nine  miles  southwest  one-third  west  from  Cape  St.  George,  Tebenkoff  gives 
forty  fathoms  of  water,  and  twelve  miles  northwest  half  west  from  the  cape  he 
gives  sixty-five  fathoms. 

The  point  may  jm.ssibly  \ni  the  Cajie  San  Sebastian  of  Vizcaino,  who,  alter  the 


m^^ 


f^ 


i     ;i 


separation  < 
2(),.10(»;{,  Avl 
in  lioiior  of 
in  the  small 
a  ra])c  or  ]) 
northwest, 
endeavored 
to  bcliove  tl 

Vizeain 
cape  Avliieh  1 

Tlie  pre 
in  latitude  4 


This  na 
Point  St.  Gi 
in  detail,  l»i 
the  mail  an 
Tliere  aro  tc 
rocks  aro  tw( 
by  north  thn 
west  by  nor 
two  miles  t* 
has  ten  fiitl 
and  southeai 
of  the  pas.sa 
hifth.  It  ha 
Avell-marked 

The  stei 
mistaking  so 

Tills  nail 
is  Crescent  C 

For  Jan 
coast  line  noi 
lL'5th  degree 
annually. 


From  Pfi 
thence  west- 
Peronse,  178 
Survey  recon 
the  .shore  bet 


COAST  PILOT  OF  C^VLIFORXIA. 


109 


separation  of  his  vessels,  eontimiotl  liis  explorations  northward,  and  on  Jannary 
2(),.10();{,  Avhen  in  latitnde  4L'o  north,  reached  a  high  white  blntt',  which  he  named 
in  lioiior  of  tlie  saint  of  tliat  day.  On  the  day  ])recedinjr,  Antonio  Fhnos,  his  i)ilot, 
in  the  smaller  vessel,  sn])posed  himself  in  latitnde  43°  north,  Avhcre  the  land  formed 
a  cai)e  or  ])()int,  wiiich  he  called  Cape  Blanco,  and  from  that  point  the  land  ran 
northwest.  Near  the  point  he  discovered  a  large  and  rapid  river,  which  he 
eiKh'avorcd  to  enter,  bnt  conld  not,  from  the  force  of  the  current.  AVe  are  inclimnl 
to  believe  that  both  names  refer  to  the  same  cape. 

Vizcaino,  in  January  KKKi,  gav(!  the  name  Cabo  Blanco  de  San  Sebastian  to  a 
cape  which  he  places  near  latitude  42°, 

Tlie  present  name  was  given  to  the  cape  by  Vancouver  in  1792.  He  placed  it 
in  latitude  41°  4GJ'  north. 

DRAGON  ROCKS. 

This  name  is  ap])lied  to  the  roclvs  and  reef  extending  west-nortlnvcst  from 
Point  St.  George  for  a  distance  of  six  miles.  The  locality  has  never  been  surveyed 
in  detail,  but  a  wide  passage  exists  inside  of  the  reef,  an<l  is  invariably  used  by 
the  mail  and  coasting  steamers,  when  entering  or  leaving  Crescent  City  Bay. 
Tliere  are  ten  or  twelve  outlying  rocks,  and  many  sunken  ones.  The  outermost 
rocks  are  two,  about  half  a  mile  apart,  large,  black,  and  bold.  The  outer  bears  Avest 
by  north  three-quarters  north  from  the  Crescent  City  light,  and  the  next  inside  bears 
west  by  north  half  north  from  the  light.  No  others  show  above  water  for  nearly 
two  miles  towards  the  light.  The  passage  througli  is  about  a  mile  in  widtli, 
has  ten  fathoms  in  it,  and  the  general  course  through  is  nearly  northwest 
and  southeast,  but  not  straiglit.  Among  the  multitude  of  rocks  on  the  land  side 
of  the  passage  are  three  very  large  and  ])rominent  ones  about  two  hundred  feet 
high.  It  has  been  already  stated  that  several  of  the  largest  rocky  islets  have  a, 
Avell-marked  white  a]>i>earance,  occasioned  in  part  by  the  dejiosits  of  sea  birds. 

The  steamsliip  Brother  Jonathan  was  recently  lost  on  this  reef  in  a  fog  by 
mistaking  some  of  these  islets,  and  a  great  many  lives  lost. 

This  name  Avas  first  given  by  Vancouver  in  1792.  The  general  name  now  used 
is  Crescent  City  Beef. 

For  January,  1859,  the  line  of  eqmtl  maf/uctie  variation  of  18°  east  crosses  the 
coast  line  north  of  Point  St.  George,  in  41°  'AV,  and  in  latitude  41°  40'  crosses  the 
125th  degree  of  longitude.  This  line  moves  southward  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
annually. 

rKT.ICAN  HAY. 

From  Point  St.  f  ieorge  the  coast  runs  straight  for  twelve  miles  north  half  Avest ; 
thence  west-northwest  for  nine  miles,  forming  a  deep  indentation  called  by  La 
Perouse,  1787,  Pelican  Bay,  and  by  Vancouver,  St.  George's  Bay.  On  the  Coast 
Survey  reconnaissance  of  it  in  1850  it  is  named  Pelican  May.  Ab(mttbur  miles  off 
the  shore  l)etween  Dragon  J{(»cks  and  tlie  <  -lietko  IMver,  Tebenkott  lays  (U)wn  thirty- 


no 


COAST  PILOT  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


fivo  and  sixty  fatlioms,  snndy  l)ott<)m.  For  oifjht  milos  from  Point  St.  Gooi-}vo 
tlio  shore  is  low  lor  some  distance  back,  and  fronted  by  a  sand  beacli  to  tlic  mouth 
of  a  small  stream  called  Smith's  Kivcr.  The  entrance  to  this  river  we  looked  for 
in  vain  from  the  deck  of  the  steamer,  althonj-h  scarcely  two  miles  otV  shore,  but 
Avcro  able  to  form  a  good  estimate  as  to  where  it  should  open  by  the  peculiarities 
of  the  northern  bank,  which  was  a  low  perpendicular  bluft". 
Its  apjtroxinuite  fieof;Taphical  position  is: 

o        / 

T^iditude u  .54  north. 

Louf-itude 124  11  west. 

The  "Smith's  River"  of  recent  maps  and  descriptions  is  a  myth.  Half  way 
between  Crescent  City  and  the  mouth  of  Smith  River  there  is  a  small  sheet  of 
water  called  Lake  Talawa.  North  of  this  small  stream  the  coast  acquiies  an  ele- 
vation of  about  one  or  two  huiulred  feet  for  a  short  distance  inland,  and  is  bounded 
by  hiyli  mountains. 


"1 


mtU 

I  for 

hut 

ities 


way 

i>t  of 
I  ole- 
mled 


COAST  OF  ori:gon. 

Tho  etyiuolofiy  of  the  iianio  Orcj^ou  has  not  boon  satisfactorily  i'.\i)laiiu'il.  It 
is  iiisl  nit'iitioiH'd  l)y.Fuiuithaii  Carver  in  the  narrative  of  his  tradin^j;  exi)e(Iition  to 
the  head-waters  of  the  Mississijuti,  between  June  I70(i,  and  October  17(iH,  lie  did 
not  penetrate  beyond  the  {)5th  dej;ree  of  west  h»nf;itude,  and  mentions  the  name 
but  tlirei!  times,  in  the  following;'  manner:  Tiie  "Jiiver  Oregon,  or  tlie  liiver  of  tiie 
"NVi'st,  that  falls  into  the  I'aeitic  Ocean  at  the  Straits  of  Annian  ; ''  tlie  "  Orej;-on,  or 
the  ]?iver  of  the  West. "  lie  states  that  Jtobert  Whitworth,  in  177-4,  designed  to 
pursue  the  same  route  traversed  by  himself,  "  till,  havinj;'  discovered  the  source  of 
the  Oregon,  or  Itiver  of  tlie  "West,  on  the  other  side  of  the  summit  (»f  the  lands 
that  divide  the  water's  which  run  into  the  Gulf  of  ^Mexico  from  those  that  fall  into 
the  Taeilic  Ocean,  he  would  have  sailed  down  that  river  to  the  place  where  it  is 
said  to  empty  itself  in  the  Straits  of  Annian."  This  is  the  extent  of  his  infornui- 
tion  on  the  subject,  and  wns  derived  from  Indians  and  traders. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  ^Martin  d'Aguilar  reported  to  have  found,  in  Ifiu.?, 
n  large  river  emptying  into  the  Pacitic  in  latitude  43°,  and  which  was  called  tho 
"Eiverof  the  West." 

The  theory  that  the  Pend  d'Oreilles  tribe  inhabited  part  of  the  region  between 
the  Columbia  lUver  and  the  Kocky  Mountains  was  originally  designated  Orejou 
by  the  Spaniards,  and  hence  gave  the  name  to  the  river,  is  unsatisfactory. 

About  three  miles  bj'  the  shore,  to  the  northward  from  the  deepest  part  of 
Pelican  Day,  the  boundary  line  of  California  and  Oregon,  of  IL"^  north  latitude, 
strikes  the  coast  near  a  noticeable  high  pyramidal  mound,  rising  abruptly  from  the 
plateau,  which  is  destitute  of  timber. 

CHET-KO  RIVER. 

Five  nules  from  the  deepest  pa't  of  Pelican  Bay,  and  in  latitude  42°  C  I'  north, 
longitude  124°  15'  \\est,  (both  approxinuitc',)  empties  a  stream  which  is  from  fifty 
to  sixty  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  with  banks  about  one  hundred  feet  high,  and 
bounded  half  a  mile  inshore  by  very  high  hills.  It  appears  deep  .iiul  sUiggish, 
and  in  August  IHihi,  was  completely  closed  at  the  iiiouth  by  a  heavy  grav<'l  beach. 
The  anchorage  oft"  it  is  open  and  exposed  from  \\est  to  south,  with  several  reefs 
in  and  around  it.  No  survey  or  reconnaissance  lia^  been  made.  V^'e  found  Indian 
huts  in  great  jiumbers  upon  both  banks,  but  most  of  tiie  Indians  were  engaged 
higher  uj)  the  stream  in  taking  salmon.  On  Tebenkotri  chart  this  stream  is  called 
the  Striela  or  Arrow  Kiver. 

On  the  Coast  Survey  charts  of  185.'$  this  stream  was  nnirked  Illinois  Kiver, 
that  being  the  name  applied  to  it  by  min(>rs  prospecting  from  Crescent  City, 
whereas  the  Illinois  is  the  south  branch  of  the  Kogue's  liiver.    Similar  errors  have 


112 


COAST  riLOT  OF  OHECJON. 


i    ! 


frtM|iii'iitly  been  niiule  on  tho  coast.    Some  givo  the  Iiuliau  naino  of  this  strcain, 
Chitko. 

From  Point  St.  CM'or<;t'  to  an  arched  rock  called  Mack's  Arch,  ahimt  forty  feet 
lii},di,  in  latitu(h'  41."^  11',  the  conrs«^  is  nitrthwest  by  north  twenty-seven  miles. 
The  coast  bet  ween  the  Chet-ko  and  the  point  within  a  mile  of  the  ai'cli  is  hi};h,  bold, 
compact,  and  bordered  by  vast  numbers  of  rocks,  with  very  deep  wiitcr  close  In 
shore.  Tiie  Coast  Survey  reconnaissance  chart  has  a  small  anchoia^ic  marked  in 
hititmh'  41i°  17',  about  iive  or  six  miles  north  of  the  arched  rock.  It  is  on  the 
south  side  of  a  sli-^htly  projectinj,'  head;  the  surveying  steanu-r  did  not  anclnu' 
here.  From  the  arched  rock  the  sliore  runs  nearly  northwest  by  north  half  north 
for  forty  miles  to  ('ai»e  Orford,  makinj;'  a  lonj;  {,'entle  curve  of  four  miles  to  the 
eastward,  and  being  in  general  high,  abrupt,  and  rocky. 

CAPE  SEBASTIAN. 

Ti:i-  cape  is  in  latitude  42°  18'  north,  and  longitude  124°  25'  west,  api  loxi- 
mately.  AN'hen  seen  from  a  position  se\en  miles  soutUwi'st  from  the  Chetko,  the 
cape  is  a  ver .'  marked  ami  inominent  headland,  that  so  far  has  r<'mained  name- 
less. J  propose  that  it  l)e  nanu'd  ('ape  Sel»astian.  It  is  six  miles  nortli-northwest 
of  ]\lack's  Arch,  and  southeast  by  .south  two-thirds  south,  twenty-.seven  miles  from 
Port  Orford. 

nOGUE  KIVEII. 

"Within  the  long  stretch  just  referred  to  is  found  the  entrance  of  Eogue  TMvei-. 
in  latitude  42°  25'  mntli,  and  longitude  124o  22'  west,  (both  approximate,)  having 
a  loug,  low,  sandy  [)oint  on  the  south  aide,  and  a  high,  steep  hill,  with  two  large 
rocks  off  Its  base  at  the  north  side.  It  comes  from  the  interior  between  high 
mountains,  and  it  is  next  to  im])ossible  to  travel  along  its  course.  Just  within 
the  enhance  and  on  the  north  side  were  large  Indian  villages  in  18.j3.  AVlieu 
j>assing  it  in  moderate  northwest  weather  the  sea  was  breaking  heavily  across  the 
bar,  and  this  is  reported  to  be  generally  the  case.  It  has  not  been  examined  or 
surveyed,  and  the  depth  of  water  on  the  bar  is  variously  rei)orted  from  ti>n  to 
eighteen  feet;  the  former,  doubtless,  nearer  the  truth.  McArthur  reports  ten  feet 
on  the  bar,  but  that  the  channel  is  too  narrow  for  sailing  vessels  to  turn  in.  In  tho 
spring  of  1850  the  New  Yiu'k  pilot  boat,  AV.  G.  Ilagstatf,  entered  the  riv«'r,  and 
we  believe  was  attacked  by  the  Indians,  deserted,  jdundered,  and  burnt.  The 
next  vessel  that  entered  was  the  schooner  Sam  Koberts,  in  July  of  the  sanu;  year, 
which  got  out  safely.  A\'e  km>w  of  no  other  vessels  ever  having  made  the 
attempt. 

Near  the  entrance  commence  the  detached  deposits  of  auriferous  sand  and 
gravel,  which  are  found  northward  along  the  coast  to  the  Coquilie  Kiver. 

The  name  of  the  liver  was  suggested  by  the  <lishonest  propensities  of  the 
natives  in  its  vicinity.  On  the  nmps  it  is  called  Touhmnis,  ami  the  Too-too-tut-nii 
or  Klamet.    These  names,  we  judge,  have  arisen  from  misaiiprehension,  because 


of  this  .strcii 


m. 


ilxmt  forty  fW't 
t.v-Ncvcii  miloM. 

''"■^I'i^ii,  Im.M, 
water  <'l(»,s(.  jn 

iifi*'  iiiiirkcd  ill 
It  is  on  the 
»1  not  aiiclior 
itli  JiJilf  north 
1'  iiiih's  to  tiio 


I'  Clu'tivO,  tlic 

I'aiiK'il  iiiiine- 
tli-northwost 
'II  iiiilfs  from 


iite,)  liiiviii^- 
li  two  liir-'e 
'tuccn  Iijo-Ii 
Jii«t  Mitiiin 
5.53.     A\'Ju.n 
*■  iicross  the 
xiiininotl  or 
I'oni  ten  to 
Its  ten  foot 
'"•    In  the 
J'iver,  iiiid 
unit.    The 
Siiine  year, 
"liule   the 

Si" id  and 

OH  of  the 
foo-tut-iiii 
1,  because 


'  :| 


m 


COAvST  riLOT  OF  OEEGON. 


113 


the  Indians  l>oreabout.s,  Atiieu  asked  a  question  wliicli  tUoy  do  not  understand, 
answered  too-ta-to6-ta;  to6-ta  sif>iii{'vinft'  nejiation,  and  rendered  more  enijtliatic 
by  repetitit»n.  Or  the  name  maybe  derived  from  ^..latis  called  the  Too  too  tan 
village,  some  distance  up  the  river.  That  existinj;-  (1S,"».'>)  on  tiie  north  head  of 
the  mouth  of  the  river  is  called  Tar-siu>ots.  TebenUotf  has  the  river  Ounde  open- 
in;^-  in  latitude  41;°  L'J';  but  he  lias  u  reef  extending-  three  miles  olf  sh(»re  in 
latitude  4i"^  ;!()'.  He  has  the  river  Tituna  emjitying  into  Indian  I>ay  or  Port 
Orford  in  latitude  44°  45'.5.  Several  campaigns  have  been  nnuh!  against  the 
Kogne  liivei'  Indians,  and  they  have  been  found  a  warlike  and  tnmblcsome  race; 
but  the  mauner  in  wImCIi  th*  y  were  ti'cated  by  some  of  the  early  settlers  Avas  well 
calculated  to  rouse  them  to  a  war  of  retaliation. 

KOGTJE   UIVKU  REKF. 

The  rocky  islets  composing  this  reef  are  not  so  large  as  the  Dragon  IJocks, 
and  run  more  nearly  parallel  Avith  the  coast  line.  Tiu>  southern  group  of  rocUs 
lies  west  lialf  noriii,  about  four  miles  from  the  north  head  of  the  entrance  to 
Ifogne  Jfiver,  and  stretches  northward  three  ]ni!;'s,  where  a  gap  occurs  between 
them  and  aiu)thei'  clustci'  lying  a  mile  and  a  half  otf  shore.  Off  this  inner  gr(»n[» 
lie  several  dangerous  sunken  rocks,  which  must  be  shari>ly  watched  from  aloft 
when  the  sea  is  not  heavy  enough  to  break  up»Mi  them.  As  seen  from  the  siaith- 
wanl.  the  inside  rock  of  the  onter  gronj)  shov, s  a  pci'pendicular  face  eastward, 
and  sloping  back  to  the  west.  The  channel  through  this  reef  is  ])erhaj)s  a  mile 
Avide,  but  nH)re  da'igerons  than  any  other  on  the  coast.  No  hydrogTaj)liic  survey 
luis  been  made  ;»f  it,  and  it  is  in'ver  used  by  the  coasting  steamers.  In  ls."i;j  the 
coast  surveying  steamer  passed  thnutgh  it. 

Abreast  of  the  northern  j)art  of  this  reef  is  a  livi'-mile  stretch  of  low  sand 
')each,  backed  by  high,  rngg<'d,  wooded  hills,  Avheu  the  shore  changes  to  an 
abrni>t  and  precii»it<ais  face  to  Port  Orford.  ]Maiiy  rocks  closely  border  the  shoie, 
ami  liv(^  miles  south  of  Port  Orford  a  high  rocky  islet  lies  nearly  a  mile  olf  the 
base  of  the  hill,  about  one  tlumsand  feet  high. 

Abou<^  eleven  miles  Avest  by  south  from  the  uiouth  of  liogue  lllAer  La  Peiouso 
gives  a  sounding  of  eighty  fathoms  on  his  chart. 

roirr  orfouu. 

This  is  by  far  the  best  summer  roadsl.-ad  <ui  the  coast  between  Los  IJcyes 
antl  the  .Strait  of  ,Iuan  de  Fnca.  Prom  the  extremity  of  the  southwest  point  east- 
ward to  the  maMi  shore  the  dista'ice  is  two  miles,  and  from  this  line  to  tho 
greatest  bend  of  tln^  shore  uortlnvard  the  distance  is  one  mile.  The  soundings 
Avithin  this  space  range  from  sixteen  fathoms  close  to  Tichenor  Kock,  foiining  the 
southwest  point  of  the  bay,  to  three  fathoms  within  t>ne-quarter  (»f  a  mile  of  the 
beach  on  the  n(M'theast  side;  with  live  fathoms  at  th(>  base  of  the  rocky  points  on 
the  noi'thwcst  side  towards  Tichenor  Ilock.  One  mile  olf  the  shores  of  the  hay  the 
average  ticptii  is  about  fourteen  fathoms,  regularly  decreasing  in  shore. 


-  m 


1?  ■' 


114 


COAST  PILOT  OF  OlfFXiON. 


The  point  forming  the  western  part  of  the  bay  ])rosents  a  very  nij^fted,  pre- 
eipitons  outline,  and  attains  an  elevation  of  tiivee  luuuhed  and  tiity  fi-ct.  Its 
surface  is  covered  with  excellent  soil  and  Avitli  a  si>arse  growth  of  fir.  From  this 
lioint  the  shore  becomes  depressed  to  about  sixty  feet  at  the  northern  or  middle 
part  of  the  shore  of  the  bay,  where  the  town  is  located.  The  hills  behind  are 
covei-ed  Avith  a  thick  growtls  of  fir  and  cedar. 

The  anchorage  is  u.sually  made  with  the  eastern  end  of  the  town  bearing 
north,  being  just  open  to  the  east  of  a  high  rock  on  the  lieach,  in  six  fathoms 
water,  hard  bottom,  having  a  sharp,  high  point  bearing  northwest  by  west  one- 
quarter  of  a  mile  distant,  the  beach  in  front  of  the  town  distant  a  quarter  of  a 
mile,  and  tliiec  n  i-ks,  just  in  the  throe-lathom  line,  east  by  north,  distant  half  a 
mile.  Steamers  anchor  a  little  to  the  eastward  of  this  position,  and  closer  to  the 
town,  in  four  fathoms.  Coasters  from  the  south  in  summer  beat  up  (rlose  in  shore, 
stretching  inside  of  the  outlying  islets  to  avoid  the  heavy  swell  outside.  Coming 
from  the  north\v;ird  they  keep  just  outside  of  a  high  rock  one-third  of  a  mile  ott" 
the  western  head,  and  round  Tichenor  Kock  within  half  a  mile.  In  winter  anchor 
far  enough  <mt  to  be  ready  to  put  to  sea  when  a  soutlu-aster  comes  up.  During  a 
protracted  gale  in  Decend)er  1851,  a  terrible  sea  rolled  in  that  no  vessel  could 
have  ri(hlen  out.  The  old  steamer  Sea  Cull  was  driven  northward,  and  lost  two 
weeks  in  regaining  her  position,  and  the  mail  steamer  Columbia  hardly  heUl  her 
o«ii  for  many  hours  off  the  Orford  Ileef. 

The  usual  landing  is  between  the  rock  called  IJattle  Rock,  uorth  of  the 
anchorage,  and  the  point  of  rock  clo.se  on  its  west  side.  A  road  is  cut  from  hero 
up  to  the  town,  which  consists  of  but  a  few  houses.  Sometimes  a  landing  is  nnule 
on  the  rociv^y  beach  a  quarter  of  a  mile  westward  of  JJattle  I'ock,  in  the  bight, 
where  a  sUqing  grassy  blufi  comes  to  the  wat(>r;  but  this  landing  is  over  a  rocky 
bottom.  A  road  is  cut  up  the  slope  to  the  site  of  the  military  post  of  Port  Orford, 
which  is  iM»w  abandoned. 

From  "Battle  Itock"  the  shore  eastAvard  is  skirted  by  sand  beach  foi'  one  and 
three-quarters  nule  to  a  rough,  rocky  point  called  Coal  Point.  About  midway  in 
this  distance  enq)tics  a  small  creek,  whose  banks  are  conq)Ose<l  of  a  deposit  of 
auriferous  sand  and  gravel,  the  same  as  found  in  front  of  the  town  abreast  of 
Battle  Rock,  and  which  has  yielded  as  high  as  $■')(>  to  .$10  per  diem  to  each  miner. 
Battle  liock  wa.s  so  named,  l)ecause  the  first  adventurers  nnule  a  stand  against 
the  Indians  upon  this  rock  in  June  ISol.  Coal  Point  was  so  named  from  the 
rc^ported  existence  of  coal  in  this  vicinity,  but  Ave  found  none  after  (sareful  exami- 
nation. 

Several  attemiits  have  been  made  to  open  a  road  from  this  place  to  the  mines, 
about  sixty  or  scA'cnty  miles  eastward,  but  thus  far  Avitlnmt  success.  Several 
p.u'ties  have  gone  thnmgli,  but  could  find  net  <lirect  available  route  (or  puck- 
animals.  Up(tu  the  opening  of  such  a  road  it  would  become  a  large  depot  of 
supply  for  the  interior.  In  the  neighborhood  of  I'ort  Orf(U'd  are  found  immense 
quantities  of  the  largest  ami  finest  Avhite  cedar  on  the  coast,  and  lor  some  years 


- 


f 


COAST  PILOT  OF  OREGON.  115 

a  saw-]i.i11   has  boon    in  oporation,  ■.MYonVm^  a  small  snpi.ly  (br  tho  San  Frui 
CISCO  market  of  tins  lumber,  nnappn.uc-hable  in  quality  by  any  0.1  the  .Ulantic 
coast. 

The  high  mountain  about  twelve  miles  east  of  Port  Orford  is  eallod  Pilot 
Knob. 

The  primary  astronomieal  station  of  the  Coast  SurNoy,  ostablisho.l  here  in 
I80I,  ,s  on  the  top  of  the  ri.lf,n- Just  Avest  of  the  town,  at  a  luioht  of  two  hnn.lre.l 
mm  s,xt>-.two  leet  above  tho  sea,  and  within  a  t^e^y  yards  of  the  western  edge  of 
tiie  blutt.    Its  geogra[»hieal  position  is: 

Latitude 

T        .,    ,  i2  44  21.7  north. 

Longitude I'.i  ..^  j7 

^-4  Jb  47    west. 

Or,  in  time ''' "^  ^'j 

o  1  (  00. 

aboi^l^'"'"'  ''""'"'""'  ''°  "''  '''*'  "'  ^oy..nh^  1851,  with  a  yearly  increase  of 
nule  dl^nr"  '''''"'  ^''^''"'''  ^"'^'  ^'"''  '""'''   ^^  '"""''  three-quarters  of  a 

the  p!mT'f '' T"-"""""'  '''""'  ^'"''^  '^  '•  ^""*  '^^■^^''^  ^"-"'  "-'-thof 
the  Rattle  Lock',  and  withm  titty  yards  of  the  e.lge  of  the  bluff.  Its  goo-nMi.hic.d 
position  is:  *    ^'-'pnitai 

Latitude .''./,      " 

,         .,    ,                       42  44  28.2  north. 

Longitude ^,.,    _ 

l-'i  li.S  13    west. 

Or,  in  time ''■"':    "• 

8  17  r)2.S 

T/W.,v.-The  eorreeto.1  establishm.'iit,  or  mean  interval  between  the  time  of  tho 
moons  transit  and  the  time  of  high  water,  is  11/,,.  2im.     The   mean  rise    and 
lull  ot  tides  is  5.1  teet,  of  sjning  ti<les,  0.8  l\.ot,  ami  of  neap  ti.los,  3.7  IW-t     The 
mean  duration  of  the  Hood  is  «/,.  19,«.,  of  the  ebb,  (i/,.  7,n.,  and  of  the  stand,  iif,.  3!),» 
Ihe  average  ditforonce  between  the  corrected  establLshmont  of  the  a   m    n.d  p  m' 
tides  of  the  same  day  is  1/^.  22;».  for  high  water,  and  0/..  40»,.  for  low  water     The' 
dillorences  Avhen  the  mooirs  dec-lination  is  greatest  are  2/..  12«*.,  and  ih  "8,«    res 
IH'ctively.    The  average  dillorences  in  height  of  those  two  tides  is  1.4  toot  tor  tlu3 
h-Sh  waters,  and  2.0  feet  for  the  low  waters.     When  the  moon's  declination  is 
greatest  those  differences  are  2.3  feet  and  3.0  foot,  respectively.     The  avora-o  di  ffer- 
ciice  ot  the  higher  high  and  lower  low  waters  of  the  same  day  is  7.1  teet  and  when 
he  moon  s  declinati.m  is  greatest,  8.2  feet.     The.  higher  high  water  in  the  twontv- 
our  hours  occurs  about  10/,.  45,«.  after  the  moon's  upiKn-  transit,  (southing,)  when 
the  moon's  declination  i.v  11, »fi.    ..,,,1  ..i.,,..^  i /.    ......    ,.  ,  '     ,         "^'^ 

south.     The  lower 


of  the  low  watt.'i' 
est  observed  diff 


s  occurs  a 


bout  seven  hours  after  the  higher  high  water.  Tl 


crence  between  two  low  waters  of  one  d 

gioatest  difference  between  the  higher  high  and  lower  lo 
ILOfeet. 


le  great- 


ay  was  5.5  toot ;  and  the 
waters  of  one  day  was 


mB= 


116 


COAST  riLOT  OF  OREGON. 


To  fiiul  tilt'  times  of  lii<ili  and  low  -waters,  iir.st  compute  the  times  for  Astoria, 
and  from  the  numbers  tlius  obtained  suhstract  ]/(.  Him.  for  I'ort  Orfcu'd. 

This  bay  was  called  Ewiuft-  Harbor  in  ISoO  by  ]\[cArthur,  but  is  now  known  by 
110  other  name  than  I'ort  Orford,  from  its  proximity  to  Cape  Orford.  A  sketch  of 
it  was  published  l»y  the  Coast  Survey  Ollice  in  1854.  On  Tebenkoirs  chart  it  is 
called  Indian  I>ay,  and  tlu^  river  Tituna  emjjties  into  it  in  latitude  42°  4.V.5.  He 
has  the  chara(;teristic  high  rocks  to  the  southward  close  in  shore,  with  45  and  .'58 
fathoms,  three  miles  oil. 

From  the  western  extremity  of  Port  Orford,  Cape  Orford,  or  IJlancft,  bears  north- 
west half  lunth,  distant  six  miles,  the  slnue  line  between  them  curving'  eastward 
about  a  mi'e.  Immediately  north  of  Tort  Orford  the  shore  is  composed  of  a  very 
broad  loose  sand  beach,  backed  by  a  hnig,  uniform  sand  ridge  of  oiu'  hundred  feet 
height,  covered  with  grass,  fern,  salial  bushes,  and  a  few  firs;  while  behind  this  the 
ground  falls  and  forms  lagoons  and  marshes.  This  ridge  extends  nearly  to  the 
mouth  of  a  stream  called  Elk  lliver,  thn'e  and  a  half  miles  from  Tichenor  Ifock. 
This  narrow  stream,  fordable  at  its  mouth  at  low  tides,  comes  for  miles  thiough 
broad  marshes  covered  with  Jir  and  white  cedar,  and  an  almost  impenetrable  uiuler- 
growth.  The  south  side  at  the  nunitli  is  low,  samly,  and  Hat ;  the  north  side,  a 
sh)pc  rising  from  the  marsh  inshore  ami  terminating'  on  the  beach  in  a  pei'pendicu- 
lar  blulf,  averaging  one  hundred  feet  high,  covered  with  timber  to  its  ver^>  edge 
for  a  couple  of  miles,  when  the  timber  retreats  some  distance  inland.  The  l'a(;e  of 
this  blutt'  exhibits  vast  numbers  of  fossil  shells  in  the  sandstone.  At  its  base  a  sand 
beach  exists  which  may  be  traveled  at  low  water. 

At  the  mouth  of  Elk  lliver,  a  bottle,  nearly  buried  in  the  sand,  -was  picked  up 
on  thelSth  of  ilay,  18(J0,  ^vith  a  memorandum,  stating  that  it  had  been  thrown  from 
the  steamship  Urother  tJonathan  in  latitmle  A'2^^  0(1',  longitude  l-'4o  50',  on  the  L'.'Jd 
of  ]Marcli  1800,  the  wind  at  the  time  strong  from  the  south.  It  had  traveled 
nearly  north  about  iilty  miles. 

CAPE  ORFORD,  OR  BLA>TO. 

In  making  this  ca]ie  from  the  nortlnvard  or  southward  it  ])resents  a  great  simi- 
lai'ity  to  Point  Conception,  appearing  tirstas  an  island,  because  the  neck  connect- 
ing it  with  the  main  is  comparatively  low,  flat,  and  destitute  of  trees,  with  which 
tlie  cape  is  heavily  covered  to  t!ie  edge  of  the  clilf.  It  is,  perhaps,  over  two  hundred 
feet  high,  but  the  trees  ui)on  it  make  it  appeiir  at  least  ouo  hundred  feet  more. 
TJH'  sides  are  very  steej),  and  worn  away  by  the  action  of  the  sea,  showing  a  dull 
■whitish  appearance  usually,  but  blight  when  the  sun  is  shining  u))on  them.  At  th,^ 
base  ar»i  many  black  rocks  and  ledges  stretching'  out  to  form  ilie  inner  ])art  of  Orford 
IJeef.  In  the  bend,  southeast  of  the  cape,  rises  a.  large,  high,  single  rock,  about 
one  hundred  yards  from  the  beach. 

The  a]>proximate  geographical  ])osition  of  the  cajte  is: 

c         / 

Latitude Hi  50 north. 

Longitude 11'4  .'!0  west. 


COAST  riLOT  OF  ORECJOX. 


117 


Being  thus  the  most  western  part  of  the  main  hind  until  we  reaeh  hititudo 
47-  50/ 

From  it  Cape  ]\ren(locino  bears  south  by  oast  seven-eighths  oast,  distant  one 
])undred  and  forty-live  miles ;  Cape  I3isappointment  light,  at  tlie  nortli  head  of  the 
entrance  to  the  Columbia,  north  by  west  one-third  west,  distant  two  hundred  and 
seven  miles;  and  Tatoosh  ishmd  light,  otf  Cape  Flattery,  north-northwest  tlirec 
hundred  and  (iiirty  two  miles.  From  tiie  line  joining  IManco  and  Cape  Disappoint- 
ment the  coast  docs  not,  in  any  place,  leave  it  nu»re  tliau  twelve  n)iles. 

A  liglit  of  the  lirst  order  is  required  upon  this  cape,  or  upon  one  of  the  rocky 
Islets  of  the  outlying  reef. 

Upon  old  Spanisli  maps  a  cape  near  this  latitude  has  been  called  Blanco,  from 
the  assertion  tliat  Antonio  Flores  discovered  and  so  nanu'd  it  in  1003,  He  says 
that  fiom  this  cape  tlie  coast  trends  northwest,  and  neaj*  it  he  found  a  large  river, 
whicli  he  tried  to  enter,  but  could  not  on  account  of  tlie  strong  current  runningout. 
At  that  time  the  magnetic  declination  must  have  been  about  zero,  and  i)erhaps 
seA'oral  degrees  Avest.  Assuming  it  as  zero,  the  coast  thence  northward  for  nearly 
one  hundred  miles  trended  north  by  oast  half  east. 

The  name  Orlord  was  given  by  Vancouver  in  1702  and  placed  by  hini  in  lati- 
tude i'2°  r>'2'.    On  the  western  coast  tliis  name  is  now  almost  invariably  used. 

Fii'teen  miles  west  by  north  from  Cape  Orlord,  La  i'erouse  states  that  he  had 
soundings  in  seventy-live  fathoms. 

ORFORD  REEF. 

About  four  miles  off  the  coast,  between  Port  and  Cape  Orford,  lies  a  group  of 
rocky  islets  and  sunken  rocks. 

Theie  are  seven  large  high  ones  within  an  area  of  one  srpiare  mile,  with  small 
ones  that  are  just  awash,  and  others  upon  which  the  sea  only  breaks  in  very  luavy 
weather. 

The  southeastern  rock  is  called  the  "Fin  Rock,"  and  has  aper])endicularfaceto 
the  southwest,  with  a  sloping  surface  to  the  northeast.  Near  it  are  several  low 
black  rocks.  Tlie  Fin  Bock  lies  west  three-(iuarters  north, distant  four  andathivd 
miles  from  the  western  point  of  Port  Orfoid,  and  the  general  direction  of  the  six 
others  is  north-northwest  from  Fin  Bock.  West  from  Port  Orford,  and  distant  fctur 
and  a  half  miles,  is  a  small  black  rock,  and  near  it  a  smaller  one,  upon  which  the 
sea  breaks  only  occasionally.  West  by  north  half  luutli,  distant  four  and  three- 
quarters  miles  from  L*ort  Orford,  lies  thi^  largest  of  the  seven  islets,  rising  up  with 
high  and  nearly  pej]»endicnlar  sides.  On  the  same  course,  and  a  mile  and  a  quarter 
further  out,  is  a  small  rock,  and  half-way  between  them  a  rock  awash.  This  is 
the  northern  limit  of  the  group. 

Stretching  south-southwest  for  a  mile  and  a  third  from  Ca])e  Orford  are  numer- 
ous rocky  islets  and  suidvcn  rocks,  with  large  lieh Is  of  kelp;  but  ceasing  at  that 
distance,  a  passage  is  left  one  and  half  mile  wide  between  them  and  tli(!  northciii 
islets  of  the  other  grou]».     The  cimrse  through  the  middle  of  the  ]»assage,  (tlearing 


^m 


118 


COAST  riLOT  OF  OKEGON. 


the  rock  rallod  Klooqiu-li,  oil"  tlu'  western  point  of  Tort  Oifonl,  is  nortlnvcst  by 
west,  Avitli  ten  latlioms  rocky  bottom  on  the  shoiHcst  i»art  of  that  line. 

Tliis  passajje  is  in  constant  use  by  mail  and  coasting  steamers,  but  the  hydro- 
graphy of  the  reef  has  not  yet  been  executed,  andoidy  a  i)rcliniinary  examination 
of  the  position  of  tin;  outer  rocks.  iVll hough  the  general  trend  of  the  southern 
group  is  iu)rth-uorth\vcst,  it  is  very  probable  that  they  are  a  continuation  of  the  reef 
making  out  from  the  cape. 

\Vhen  coming  down  this  coast,  in  1787,  La  Perouse  says  his  latitude  at  iioon 
•was  -12°  oS'  .")(>",  and  tliat  two  hours  afterwards,  in  latitude  42°  49'  he  was  abreast 
of  nine  small  islands  or  rocks  lying  about  a  league  off  Cape  Blanco,  which  bore  north- 
east by  east  true,  fie  called  them  the  Xecker  Islands;  evidently  the  grouj)  form- 
ing the  Orford  I'eef. 

About  two  miles  westward  of  the  reef,  Tebenkoft"  gives  a  sounding  in  fortj'- 
tliree  fathoms. 

One  mile  north  of  Ca])e  Orford  empties  a  small  stream,  having  a  great  number 
of  rocks  oil'  its  mouth.  In  1851  it  Avas  usually  called  8ikhs  liiver,  the  Chinook  "Jar- 
gon" name  for  friend.  On  some  maps  we  liud  a  stream  near  this  locality  called 
Sequalchiu  Elver.    The  village  upon  the  Sikhs  is  called  Te-cheh-quut. 

Ten  miles  north  of  Cape;  Orford  La  Perouse  places  a  ca])e  called  Toledo,  but  no 
headland  exists  between  Orford  and  the  south  head  of  the  Coquille,  although  a 
small  streain  called  Flora's  Creek  empties  upon  the  coast  about  half  way  between 
them.    But  his  descri])tion  shows  that  he  did  not  see  the  above  headland. 

From  Point  Boneta  to  Cape  Orford  the  extent  of  shore-line  is  three  hundred  and 
eighty-eight  miles,  Boneta  to  ]\Iendocino  being  two  luuidred  and  twenty  three  miles. 

GENEKiili  FEATURES. 

From  Cape  ^Mendocino  the  hills  upon  the  seaboard  range  oni  two  thousand  to 
three  thousand  feet  high,  running  parallel  with  the  coast  at  a  distance  of  from 
three  to  live  miles,  receding  .somewhat  at  the  Eel  liiver  Valley  and  Point  St.  George, 
and  at  other  points  coming  abruptly  to  the  ocean.  The  Avhole  face  of  the  country 
is  covered  Avith  dense  forests,  and  oilers  almost  insurmountable  obstacles  to  the 
opening  of  roads  intended  to  strike  the  trail  leading  along  the  valleys  of  the  Sacra- 
mento and  Wallamut. 

NortliAvard  of  Cape  Orford  the  appearancte  and  nature  of  the  coast  assumes  a 
marked  change.  Long  reaches  of  Ioav,  Avhite  sand  beach  occur,  with  sand  dunes, 
broken  by  bold  I'ocky  headlands,  and  backed  by  high  irregular  ridges  of  mountains. 
On  the  sea-tace  and  southern  sides  of  many  of  these  prominent  points  no  tind)er 
grows,  and  they  present  a  bright,  lively  green  of  fern,  grass,  and  bushes.  The 
general  altitude  of  the  mountains  appears  the  same  as  to  the  southAvard. 

COQUILLE  RIVER. 

From  Cai)e  Orford  to  the  month  of  the  Coquille,  in  latitude  43°  07',  the  coast 
runs  exactly  north  for  seventeen  miles,  with  a  slight  curve  of  a  mile  and  a  half 


COAST  PILOT  or  01{Et;0N. 


119 


castwiird,  and  a  slidit  distance  north  of  Orford  it  con.siHta  of  a  low  sand  bcacb, 
iiamediati'ly  behind  which  are  loii}?  sliallow  la{?oons  receiving'  tlic  water  from  the 
mountains,  bnt  havinj?  no  visible  ontk't  to  the  sea,  Ah)n<jf  tliis  shore  tlie  sound- 
inj,'s  ran;;e  from  seven  to  lifteen  fathoms  at  a  distance  of  a  mile. 

The  south  point  of  the  entranco  to  this  river  is  a  hij^h  blutl"  headhiud,  whilst 
the  north  point  is  a  long,  low,  narrow  spit  of  sand,  overlapping,  as  it  were,  the 
southern  head,  so  that  the  channel  runs  parallel  with  and  close  under  it,  (1851.) 
A  short  distance  oil'  it  lie  several  rocks,  but  not  of  sullicient  size  to  lessen  the 
western  swell  wiiich  breaks  continually  across  the  bar. 

Jn  the  winter  of  18i»l  the  boats  of  the  pro]»ellor  Sea  (J nil  cfVt'cted  a  landing 
near  the  rocks,  but  it  was  attended  with  danger;  subsequently  boats  were  (tarried 
by  land  from  J*oit  Orl'ord.  The  widest  part  of  the  mouth  is  less  than  two  hun- 
dred yards,  after  which  the  river  spreads  out  into  a  lai{i;e  .sheet  of  shallow  water, 
about  two  miles  long  by  three-quarters  of  a  mile  broad,  and  bf)unded  by  low 
ground.  Into  the  northeast  part  of  this  lagoon  enters  the  river,  which  has  been 
followed  a  distance  of  about  thirty  miles  in  a  northeasterly  direction,  and  liaxing 
a  depth  throughout  of  not  less  than  lifteen  feet,  and  an  average  width  of  forty 
yards.  It  drains  a  very  fertile  region,  densely  covered  with  many  vaiicdies  of 
wood.  Numerous  Indian  encampments  were  found  along  its  banks  from  the 
mouth,  aiul  (piite  extensive  fish  weirs  were  discovered  and  destroyed.  About 
fifteen  miles  from  its  mouth  there  is  a  portage  of  one  and  a  half  miles  to  ivoos 
liivei'. 

The  liydrogra])hi(!  reconnaissance  of  this  river  in  1S5J),  by  the  Coast  Survey, 
shows  only  three  feet  of  water  on  the  bar,  and  it  is  reported  inaccessible  for  ves- 
sels of  ordinary  draught.  The  north  point  is  a  long  stretch  of  dreary  sand  dunes, 
and  lias  a  single  bold  rock  at  its  southern  extremity.  The  channel  makes  out 
straight  from  the  scmthern  head,  ami  north  of  the  rocks  (185!).) 

The  approximate  geographical  position  of  its  entrance  is: 


! 


Latitude 43  07  north. 

Longitude 124  24  west. 

Tides. — The  (appi-oximate)  corrected  establishment  is  11/i.  30»t.,  and  the  mean 
rise  and  tall  of  tides  5.0  feet. 

A  reconnaissance  of  the  entrance  and  part  of  the  river  was  published  bj'  the 
Coast  Survey  in  1801. 

When  oft'  the  entrance  in  1854  we  saw  about  a  dozen  houses  which  had  l)een 
built  by  the  miners  engaged  in  washing  the  auriferous  santland  gravel  at  the  back 
of  the  beach.  In  ajjproaching  this  coast  we  encountered  a  very  heavy  swell,  with 
the  wat«'r  changing  to  a  dark  brown  color,  and  after  passing  through  it  tacked  oft' 
shore,  hove  to,  and  sounded  near  its  outer  limit,  but  found  no  bottom  with  eiglity- 
Ibur  fathoms  of  line. 

The  alleged  depredations  of  the  Indians  in  this  section  led  to  a  canii)aign 
against  them  in  1851, 


T 


;  ii 


120 


COAST  riLOT  OF  OKE(K)y. 


Honic  recent  maps  Imvo  a  river  horo  cuUctl  Hie  Soqiiils,  and  one  within  a 
siioit  (listancf  calk-*!  the  Cotaniyts,  bnt  no  such  stream  exists  in  this  vicinity. 

CAl'K    (iniUiOKV. 

]j('t\voen  tlie  C<)(iuille  Kiver  and  tiiis  lieadhmd  we  find  aiiollier  low  sand 
beach  lor  ten  miles,  to  the  soutlieiii  ]>urt  of  (Ireyoiy,  which  rises  np  very  juecipi- 
tonsly;  the  hill  attaininj;'  i»erliaps  two  thousand  feet  elevation  two  miles  baciv, 
runs  in  a  straight  line  northward  for  three  or  four  miles,  and  b(inn<h'd  by  many 
rocks,  slopes  to  the  northward  to  a  very  narrow  sharp  i)erp«'iulicuiar  point,  about 
forty  feet  high,  and  i>eculiarly  cut  and  worn  by  the  action  »)f  the  sea.  it  forms  in 
reality  an  island,  covered  with  trees  upon  its  southern  i)art,  and  marked  by  the 
light-house  on  its  northern  extremity,  beyond  whi<'h  rocks  and  rocky  islets  extend 
one-(pnuter  of  a  mile.  Thence  it  takes  a  sharp  turn  to  t\w  east-uortheast  for  two 
miles  to  Koos  Head,  forming  the  south  point  of  the  entrance  to  Koos  I'.ay.  The 
cape,  as  seen  from  the  southward,  shows  a  (uuiple  of  rocks  a  short  distance  from 
its  Avestern  ]>oint.  Along  the  low  shore  soundings  in  ten  fathoms  are  found  one 
mile  off.  OHictMs  of  the  Hudson  JJay  Com])any  assert  that  soiae  of  theii' vessels 
anchoring  close  lunlcr  tiie  northwest  face  of  the  cape  have  ridth'U  out  heavy  south- 
east gales;  and  the  light-house  steamer  Shubrick  has  anchored  close  under  the 
head  in  live  fathoms  -water,  in  a  southea-  gale,  putting  to  sea  when  the  wind 
shifted  to  the  sontiiwest. 

This  is  very  impoitant,  because  no  other  place  between  Drake's  and  Nee-ali 
Days  (latitude  38^  00'  to  ITo  24')  affords  such  protection.  If  a  southeaster  should 
haid  to  the  southwest,  and  then  to  the  northwest,  as  they  usually  do,  a  vessel 
anchored  in  this  position  must  be  prepared  to  put  to  sea  at  once. 

From  the  northwest  point  of  the  mainland  of  the  cape  the  light-house  island 
and  rocks  extend  north  41°  west  nearly  half  a  mile,  Avith  seven  fathoms  within  a 
((uarter  of  a  mile  of  their  extremity.  The  next  point  of  rocks  to  tiie  eastward  of 
Light-house  Reef  is  Yokam  I'oint,  nearly  three-quarters  of  a  mile  east  by  north 
three-quarters  north  from  the  extremity  of  the  iornu'r,  and  the  shore  of  the  nuiin- 
land  between  them  falls  back  with  a  low  rocky  face,  bordered  with  a  broad  sand 
beach  at  low  Avater.  Three-cpuirters  of  a  mile  east  by  north  three-fiuarters  north 
from  Yokam  Point  is  Tunnel  Point,  Avith  a  blufl',  Avooded  shore,  bordered  by  sand 
beach  at  high  and  Ioav  AA-aters  between  them.  Within  an  eighth  of  a  mile  of 
Yokam  Point  soundings  are  laid  down  in  se\'eu  fathoms,  and  also  toAvards  Light- 
house L'oint,  but  a  detailed  hydrograi)hi(!  exanunation  has  not  been  nuule  to  tin; 
shores.  It  would  be  important  to  sound  out  this  space,  and  deternune  whether  it 
is  really  available  as  a  roadstead  of  refuge  against  southeast  gales.  It  is  directly 
open  to  the  nortliAAest. 

Four  miles  broad  olT  the  southei'n  part  of  the  cape  a  depth  of  twenty-flA'o 
fathoms  is  laid  down;  and  on  a  course  Avest  by  south  three-eighths  south  from  the 
light  a  line  of  soundings  is  laid  doAvn  for  ten  and  a  half  miles,  at  Avhich  distance 
.seAcnty-five  fathoms  are  giA'en,  Avith  sixty  fathoms  Avithin  four  miles  of  the  light. 


ir? 


no  witliin  a 
vicinity. 


or  low  sand 
■»'iy  luccipi- 
niiies  back, 
L'd  by  many 
|M»inf,  about 

It  I'oiins  iu 
I'kcd  by  tlio 
sk'ts  extend 
^a.st  lor  two 

I5ay.  Tho 
stance  from 

lotind  one 
heir  vessels 
eavy  sontli- 
c  under  tiui 
n  the  wind 

uul  Xee-ah 
ster  should 
lo,  a  A'essel 

•use  island 
IS  within  a 
astward  of 
b  by  north 
the  inain- 
I'oad  sand 
ters  north 
'd  by  sand 
a  mile  of 
•<ls  Liglit- 
de  to  the 
vJiether  it 
s  directly 

venty-riv(3 

from  tlie 

I  distance 

he  light. 


^ 


f 


mi 


1:    ::i 


1.. 


if 


iKI 


w^ 


■iiiiwwwp—i ■ 


COAST  PILOT  ()1M)1{|:(1C)N.  121 

Boyoiul  fl...  outer  soun.li.,;.' no  bottoiawiis  fuun.I  will.  „,„.  lu.i,.lr..a  iui.l  .w.-ntv 
fntho.Msor  lin...  Tl.irr.v-ci«i.t  inilc.  imrtl.  r.so  w.-st  fn.n,  (iivorv  li-H.t  is  (In. 
H..utl.,.n,tailoftlH.  fI<M.at..I5M>.k,  lu.vinw'  .s.MnMlin.s  ln>ni  lo.ivtiin...  h,  H.-ht.v- 
tI.m.(.„l.on..s,,m.r  variable  Imtto.n.  This s1m„1  nn.s  tl.iitv  ..lilcs  nortlnv  ,■/,,,'.•- 
i'llH  w.tl.  the.  .-(.ast,  and  havinj;-  ,vMy,  «(ncj.ty,  an.l  sixty  fathoins  betwron  it  an.l 
the  shore. 

LIOHT-IIOr.SK  ON  ('An;  OKKdOKV. 
This  stnu-tnr..  is  on  the  narrow  island  north w.-st  old,,,  extren.itv  of  the  n.ain- 
h.n.lot  rap«"(in.;.-ory,an.l  eonsists  of  an  o.h,«„Mal  wronj;ht-iron  tower  and  hin- 
'•■'"'  I"""-''"'  ^^•'■'t'^'  ^^i^''  tl'^'  «1^'"<'  <"•  <1-  lantern  ,,ainte,l  red.  As  seen  Inm. 
seaward,  the  tower  is  pr,,ieet..d  a«ainst  the  dark  spruee  Iblia^je,  and  is  r..adi!v  r,...- 
o^^m/ed  in  .lay-tin.e.  The  keeper's  dw,.Ilin;;  is  a  oneand-a-halt^storv  woo,len 
l-nhbn;;'.  painted  whit..,  with  ^^reen  shutters  to  the  windows,  and  is  si'tuated  on 
he  s,nitlu.rn  extremity  of  the  island,  about  three  hundred  and  tiftv  yards  Iron. 
the  towe...  '  ' 

The  linht  was  first  exhibited  Xov(.nd,er  1,  ISOti,  ,,,..1  shows  Iron,  s.u.set  to 
8nnr.se  ajiml  white  Uyht,  rarial  hyJluHh,;.  The  ,bu-ation  of  the  steady  exl.ibiti...i 
IS  one  n,.,.ute  and  tifty-onc  seeon.ls;  of  the  eelipse  thn-e  s,.eonds;  of  the  flash 
thre<.  se..on,ls;  ami  of  the  s,.eond  ,.elipse  three  seconds.  It  is  of  the  fourth  <u,h.r 
of  Fres.u.l,  and  the  height  of  the  foeal  ,.lane  is  seyenty-the  feet  above  the  uiaiu 
level  of  the  sea.     In  elear  weather  it  should  be  seen  from  a  height  of- 

10  feet  at  a  distance  of  1,'{.(}  miles. 

20  feet  at  a  distance  of  15.1  miles. 

30  feet  at  a  distance  of  IG.;*  n.iles. 

From  Cape  Orford  it  Ix'ars  north  thirty  miles. 

The  ffcos-raphical  position  of  the  light  as  determined  by  the  United  States 
Coast  Survey  is : 

Latitude °'    " 

T        .,    ,  43  20  30  north. 

^""^"^ 1212211west. 

^^'-^-- 8;728.7 

The  computed  magnetic  xaiiation  was  I8048'  east  iu  1803,  with  a  yearly 
increase  of  V.  j'-'"^.) 

Cape  Giegory  was  named  by  Captai..  Cook,  who  placed  it  by  bearings  in  lati- 
ude  loO  m',  and  is  described  by  him  as  ibilows:  -This  point  is  rendered  renn.rka- 
We  by  the  land  of  it  rising  imnie.liately  fro..i  the  sea  t.,  a  tolerable  height,  and 
that  on  each  side  of  it  is  yery  low."    Vancouver  phn-ed  it  in  -13o  23'. 

It  is  sometimes  called  by  the  recent  appellation  of  Arago. 

KOOS  BAY. 

Nearly  two  miles  east-northeast  of  the  northern  extren.itv  of  Cape  Cxregory  is 
the  Wide  and  well-marked  entrance  to  Koos  Bay.    The  south  point,  named  Koos 
10* 


'r 


rnmm 

■muh  HuamuittnmmmMnMa 


lUii^iliiUiL 


y^^'^^^ff^^'^iBVnW/ft 


/-fe  /,f.,:/z, 


122  COAhiT  PILOT  OF  0E1:G0X. 

Head,  is  liijih  iintl  bold,  Ixniig  the  base  of  the  hills  foniiinf>-  the  capo,  -.vhilst  the 
north  point  is  low  aiul  ^iaiidy,  with  shittiiif^  sand  dunes  that  reaeh  one  hundred 
Iwt  in  height.  In  1S(!1  a  narrow  ehannel  cut  ueioss  the  north  point,  forniinj-'  ii 
tolerably  large  islaixl,  whieh  was  washed  away  before  the  elose  of  the  season. 
Such  ehanges  lire  eonstiintly  taUi  ly  plaee.  and  invohe  elianges  in  tlie  bar  and  eliaii- 
lU'l,  The  points  lie  nearly  north  and  south  of  each  other,  and  about  three-quar- 
ters of  a  mile  ajvart.  In  iSOl  the  bai' was  northwest  I'y  westhalf  west  one  mile  from 
Koos  Head  :  northeast  by  north  sevcn-ei^litiis  north  one  and  thrce-<|uarters  miles 
from  Cajie  (ire;4'ory,  and  its  width  berween  the  twelve-feet  lines  on  the  iiortii  and 
south  sides  was  only  one  hundred  and  <ifty  yards,  with  a  maximum  dei)th  of  tiiir- 
teen  feet.  Thence  tlic  channel,  increasing,'  in  width  ran  strai;;ht  to  tin-  northeast 
tanfjjcnt  of  tlu^  head,  with  ten  fathoms  of  water  abreast  of  that  point.  In  isr>3  and 
ISol  a  depth  <  f  oidy  nine  to  nine  and  a  half  feet  could  be  found  on  tiie  liar.  Dur- 
iu<^  the  workinj;'  season  <»f  lS(il  the  Itar  moved  to  tiie  northward,  thus  indicating 
great  cininges  in  this  as  in  all  other  river  bars  on  the  coast.  In  October  l.Sdli  the 
iSurveying  brig  Fauntleroy  could  not  enter.  In  October  lS(;r>  tin-  cliannel  had 
eomj»letely  changed,  and  ran  directly  from  the  north  point  of  the  head  north  by 
west  a  (piarter  west  one  and  a  quarter  miles,  Avith  a  very  narrow  mouth  between  the 
breakers  having  four  fathoms  there,  but  only  seven  feet  in  the  shoalest  jtart  of 
the  cininnel  tivc  eighths  wf  a  mile  from  the  head.  Tin'  entrance  to  the  channel  liad 
thus  moved  (iveeighths  of  a  mile  to  the  north-northeast.  Vessels  enter  and  leave 
on  the  rtood  tide  because  the  l)ar  is  snumther;  Aviththe  ebb  there  is  a  heavy  break, 
unless  the  sea  be  remarkably  smooth.  The  currents  run  Acry  strongly,  as  might 
be  supposeti,  from  the  extent  of  the  bay  and  the  size  cf  the  channel. 

We  have  seen  the  sea  breaking  cotni)letely  across  the  entrance  in  moderate 
nortliAvest  weather,  and  know  that  the  nniil  steamer  has  tried  to  enter,  but  upon 
^ieeing  tiie  danger  m ouhl  not  take  the  risk.  1  n  18(!1  the  ])arty  examining  it  could  get 
but  one  day's  work  on  the  bar  during  scA'eral  m<n)ths. 

In  the  spring  of  18GS  the  brig  Admiral  reported  waiting  in  the  bay  tliirty-ono 
(hiy's  for  a  chau{!e  to  got  out  over  the  bar. 

TraHii!  is  drawn  hither  by  the  mining  of  ligiule,  whicjli  is  carried  to  the  San 
Fraui'isco  nnirket.  It  lias  i)een  found  untit  tor  steamship  consumptio;i,  but  isased 
for  small  stationary  engines  and  domestic  purnoses.  The  geoh)gy  of  the  country 
does  not  give  juomise  of  coal.  A.  tngboot  v.  as  emjd  )yed  at  the  entraiuH^  to  tow 
vessels  over  the  bar.  The  saw  uills  on  the  bay  turn  out  about  lifticn  thousand 
feet  of  bimber  daily,  Aviijch  is  shiinted  to  H\n  Francisco. 

The  geographical  ])osition  of  the  extremity  of  Koos  ITead,  as  'U  erniin  d  by 
the  United  States  i.oast  Survey,  is: 

Lafitinl" . -i;?  L!l  (L'.i)  north. 

Longitude l'2i  1i»  IS  .}  west. 

Or,  in  time ,*. S  17  1!».2 


! 


COAST  PILOT  OF  OIJEGON. 


123 


a  i>y 


M'tll. 

rest. 


Tides. — The  corrcctod  establislitnoiit  oi'  mofin  interval  lietween  the  time  of  the 
moon's  tran.sit  nd  (li<'  time  of  hi;;li  Wijter  is  ll/(.  'Jdin,  The  mean  rise  and  fall  of 
tides  is  ~)A  feet,  of  sprinj;'  tides  0.8  feet,  and  of  neap  tides  3.7  feet.  The  mean  du- 
ration of  tlie  Hood  is  Gil.  litw.,  of  the  ebb  (i/(.  07w.,  and  of  the  stand  Oh.  :V.))n. 

Tlie  two  tides  of  tlie  same  day  are  generally  unequal,  in  i)roportii)u  to  the 
moon's  deelination.  The  times  and  heights  of  high  and  low  waters  ean  bt-  obtained 
ap])roximately  from  the  following  table  and  exiilanation. 


iroou'.s  vippiT nioiidirin  p:iBsago. 

Mood's  lower  nicridiau  paHsnge. 

"Moon's  tit'cliiiation. 

Hii^li  water. 

Low  water.                     HikIi  water.                    Low  water. 

Interval. 

U«iglit. 

Interval,    j  Height. 

Interval. 

Height,  j   Interval.      Height. 

G  roatcst  north 

H.M 

12  28 

13  IT 
13  43 

Feet. 
,5.  8 
5.3 
4.1 

H.M.           Feet. 
20  08       I    —0. 0 
1!)  53      ,        0. 4 
18  48               2. 0 

II.  M. 

13  43 
13  17 
12  26 

Feet.     '.        II.  M.    I       Feet. 
4. 1       j        18  48              2. 0 
5. 3      1        19  !i3               0. 4 

Grontcst  Huutb. 

5. 0      !        20  08      1    —0. 0 

The  interval  is  to  be  added  to  the  time  of  the  moon's  meridian  i>as.sage  to 
obtain  the  time  of  higli  or  low  water.  The  time  of  the  moon's  U])i)er  meridian 
passagv'  is  given  in  the  Nautical  Almanac;  and  the  time  of  its  lower  meridian  jtas- 
sage  is  the  middle  between  the  times  of  two  swcessive  njiper  passages.  The 
lieiglits  are  given  in  feet  and  tenths,  and  show  the  ri.se  above  the  level  of  the  aver- 
age of  tlie  lowest  low  waters,  to  whitdi  the  .soundings  on  the  cliart  are  reduced. 

Spring  tides. — At  the  full  and  change  of  the  moon  the  high  water.s  will  be  0.1 
foot  higher  than  the  above,  and  the  low  waters  0.5  foot  lower. 

Xeaj)  tides. — At  the  moon's  first  and  last  quarters  the  liigh  waters  will  be  0.4 
foot  lower,  and  the  low  waters  will  not  fall  as  low  by  (>.()  foot. 

Koos  Bay  is  very  irregular  in  outline,  but  its  general  shajte  is  somewhat  like 
the  letter  U,  with  the  convexity  to  the  north.  One  .small  branch,  called  the  .South 
Slue,  stretches  a  mile  or  two  southward  directly  behind  Koos  Head,  but  it  li^is  only 
two  or  three  feet  of  water  in  it.  North  of  the  eutraiiee  the  bay  proper  begins,  and 
throughout  its  lengtli  there  is  a  channel  with  a  good  depth  of  water.  Abreast  of 
the  north  point  of  the  eiitiance  the  width  of  the  bay  is  less  than  at  any  other  point, 
being  only  six  hundred  yards  wide  at  low  water,  but  the  dept  h  of  water  reaches  eleven 
faliioms.  Jn  this  narrow  part  of  the  channel  lies  a  sunken  rock  called  Fearless  IJock,. 
nearly  in  the  mid<lle.  It  is  best  to  pas.s  to  the  westward  of  it,  keeping  the  west  side 
of  the  chaimel.  The  rock  lies  east  from  the  terminatiou  of  the  north  poiut  of  en- 
traneo,  and  west  from  Fossil  Foint.  From  the  mouth  of  the  South  Slue  the  bay 
runs  nt)rth  by  east  quarter  ea.st  six  miles;  then  easl-uortheast  nearly  two  miles  to 
North  IJend  Point;  then  southwest  between  three  and  four  miles.  Tlu^  average 
width  to  the  north  bend  is  three-(iuarters  of  a  mile.  Th(>  southwest  arm  has  a 
Avidtli  increasing  from  one  to  two  miles,  but  the  whole  eastern  part  is  bare  at  low 
water.  Koos  i{i\cr  empties  into  the  .southeast  jtart  of  the  bay  and  Coal  Jiank  Sine 
into  the  southwest  part.    At  tlu'  north  bend  two  large  slues  come  iu  from  tlie  north, 


124 


COAST  PILOT  OF  OREGON. 


and  a  .slutit  triiiiisular  one  i'lom  the  sotith.  Koos  River  is  said  to  aflbrd  j)assaso  for 
boats  lor  twenty  miles  IVoni  its  luoiith,  wliere  a  small  slue  that  empties  into  the 
Co([uille  River  is  so  near  as  to  leave  a  porta;;!'  of  only  a  mile  and  a  lialf  between 
the  two  -waters,  and  about  litteen  miles  from  tlie  numth  of  the  ('<><iuille. 

Empire  City  is  a  ])lace  of  about  twenty  iiouses,  on  the  east  side  of  the  bay; 
three  miles  from  the  entrance  a  Avharf  from  the  upi»er  mill  extends  into  sixteen 
I'eet  water.     Tlie  ("oast  Survey  has  published  a  chart  of  the  l»ay  and  approaches. 

Exceptin,n' the  ])cninsula,  which  tornis  tlic  western  shore  of  the  bay  north  of 
the  entrance,  the  entire  country  is  an  immense  forest  of  various  kiiuls  of  spruce 
and  pine.  Little  land  for  cultivation  is  found  v!*iiout  cleaiiny,  and  even  on  Koo.s 
]{iver  the  bottom  lands,  which  allord  excelh'Ut  ii.  i  ve  to  be  cleared  of  the  thick 
{>iowth  of  laurel,  maple,  and  myrtle.  The  coal  n.u.  .,  a  beyoiid  the  head  of  the 
bay,  on  Coal  Bank  ^lue. 

The  Uiiiue  Koos  is  that  approaehinff  nearest  the  Indian  pronunciation  of  the 
■word.  On  some  majis  we  lind  a  small  stream  called  Cahoos,  em])tyin.u'  hist  south 
of  Caite  (ireyory.     The  Coast  Survey  chart  of  the  bay  was  published  in  18<n. 

The  word  Koos  sig-nides,  in  the  Tootoo-tan  language,  a  lake,  lagoon,  or  land- 
locked bay.     Dutlot  de  ]\rofras  very  amusinj^ly  transhites  it  R.  des  Vaches. 

In  .lanuaiy  ISu!)  the  line  of  cr/j/ri/  viaf/nvHc  raridtion  of  liP  east  crosses  the 
coast-line  in  latitude  ili°  ;}!)',  and  in  latitude  4;>o  2!t'  crosses  the  12r)th  dej^ree  of 
longitude.    This  line  moves  annmdly  soutlnvard  about  one  and  a  half  miles. 


UMPQUAn  RIVER. 

North  of  Koos  Bay  to  the  Ump(iuah  River  is  another  straight,  hnv  sand 
beach,  with  sand  dunes,  backed  by  a  lii.nh  ]id,<;e  of  hills  densely  timbered.  The 
shore  runs  nearly  north.  ])resentiny'  a  very  white  appearance  when  tlu'  sun  shines 
uiutn  it,  and  having' from  ten  to  iifteen  fathoms  of  water  one  mile  otf  the  beach. 
Q'iie  southern  ])oint  of  the  entrance  to  the  river  is  a  markcil  spur  of  the  nH>untains 
from  the  southeast,  and  is  bordered  by  sand  diuu's.  The  north  side  of  the  en- 
trance is  a  louft'  ran^-e  of  white  shitting'  sand  hills,  runniii;;'  with  the  coast  for  two 
miles,  and  suddenly  chan^in.!;'  to  hi^'h,  rocky  hills  covered  with  wood.  The  river 
is  tin-  largest  stream  entering  tlie  Pacitie  between  the  Sacramento  and  Columbia 
Rivers.  It  is  lifty-one  miles  north  one-third  west  from  Cai)e  Orford,  ami  twentyono 
miles  north  of  Cape  Cre^ory.  The  h)wer  reach  of  the  river  is  long  and  narrow, 
running  nearly  iM)rtli  for  six  miles;  bordered  on  the  south  side  by  a  rocky,  woixled 
shore;  on  the  north,  for  two  miles,  by  loose  sand  hills,  changing  after  the  iirst 
mile  to  sand  sparsely  coxcred  with  coarse  grass,  bushes,  and  fii',  and  in  four  miles 
to  steej),  high,  rocky  Itanks  eoNcred  with  large  trees.  An  ininiense  lliit,  nctstly 
bare  at  low  water,  stretches  south  from  the  north  point  to  within  lliice  hundred 
yardsof  the  south  side  of  the  entrance,  through  which  narrow  space  runs  the  chan- 
nel, having  (isr>,'i)  a  bar  with  only  thirteen  feet  u])on  it,  ami  less  than  a  hundred 
yards  wide.  L'rom  the  bar  the  ](oint  of  blulV.Just  inside  the  entrance,  bears  north- 
east by  east,  and  is  distant  one  and  a  qiuirter  miles.    About  J.sr»l  ^n•  l.S."»2  two  range 


COAST  PILOT  OF  OliEClON. 


125 


i 


iiiiirlvs  were  itlnci'd  on  the  soiitli  sliorc  for  ruii'iiiif;'  in  by,  and  tlioy  are  froqnpntly 
rcftTrcd  to  as  data  1»y  Avliicli  to  tract'  tlio  cliaiiincs  of  the  bar;  bnt  the  captain  who 
erected  them  lias  assured  us  that  tiie  bar  was  not  on  tiieir  ranj;e,  but  to  tlie  south- 
ward of  It. 

lllOVS  I'dU   C1JU.SSINU   TlIK  HAII. 

Altlioujili  the  directions  of  one  year  will  not  answer  for  another,  it  is  desira- 
ble to  keep  on  record  siu-h  conditions  as  have  been  observed,  to  study  the  law  of 
changes  of  the  channels.  In  January  18.")S  it  was  anmtunced  that  the  bar  had 
been  marked  by  l)uoys.  Two  third  class  nun-buoys,  ])aint<'(l  white,  with  white  and 
black  periiendicular  stripes,  were  placed  in  line  with  the  li,!4ht-house,  which  boro 
from  them  east  by  north  (piarter  north.  The  inner  buoy  was  just  within  the  bar, 
and  in  three  and  a  half  fathoms  at  mean  low  water,  and  could  be  passed  on  either 
hand,  but  only  close  to  it.  The  outer  buoy  was  Just  outside  the  bar,  in  ten  fath- 
oms at  tile  same  staj;e  of  the  tide,  and  could  also  be  ])assed  on  either  hand.  Keep- 
ing the  two  buoys  in  ran^e  with  the  li,i;ht  house  that  then  existed,  a  (h'pth  of  four- 
teen feet  was  carried  over  the  bar  at  mean  low  water. 


Th 


oo\  (' 


directions  show  that  the  bar  of  the  river  had   moved  al 


)out   lour 


hundred  yards  to  the  norrhwar<l  of  its  position,  as  determined  by  the  hydroyraplMC! 
survey  of  18j.'5,  and  had,  moreover,  dee[)eiied.  In  linht  weather  it  can  be  readMy 
determiiu'd  by  the  breakers  on  each  side,  but  with  a  heavy  swell  the  si,,  is  ter- 
ritic.  In  October  IS.jli  the  Coa.st  Survey  steamer  Active  lay  off  the  bar  two  days 
tryiufr  to  ji'et  in,  but  fomnl  it  imiu'actieable.  Several  steamers  Imve  thum]>ed  heav- 
ily on  the  bar,  one  nearly  carryin.ii'  .iway  her  stern-jjost.  Se\('ral  ves.sels  have 
been  lost  at  its  entrance,  and  within  a  very  recent  period  no  pilots  helonyed  to  the 
river,  because  the  trade  was  too  small  to  warrant  the  neces.si;ry  expenses. 

Dnrinji'  the  early  part  of  Xoveniher  1S."».*>  the  bar  at  the  euti'ance  to  the  rnip- 
(pndi  chaniit'd  jiicatly,  and  the  depth  of  water  iqion  it  was  so  much  decreased 
that  the  steamsliip  Colundiia,  which  thumjicd  o\cr  it,  conld  not  leave  the  river  for 
.several  weeks.  I'lion  soundin.n'  at  the  entrance  it  was  found  that  Ihe  channel 
across  the  hai  had  mo\cd  about  three  (piartiM-;  of  a  mih'  northward  of  its  former 
position,  with  a  depMi  o'"  rhrec  and  a  half  fathoms  water. 


i:^ 


iMri.aAii  ravKR  uonT-nousE. 


The  tower  of  the  li^iht-lionse,  ninety -two  feet  in  hei;nht,  was  erected  in  l,S,"i7, 
on  the  south  side  of  the  entrance,  close  to  the  beach,  v.hich  was  of  shifting 
sand.  On  the  Sth  of  February  bSOI.  durin;;  a  heavy  freshet  in  the  river,  the 
base  of  Ihe  tower  was  nndermiiied  and  the  stiucture  fell.  No  building'  has  re- 
placed it,  l>ut  the  liiiht  at  <'apc  <ri'e;,;ory  is  sulliciently  near  to  be  used  for  mark- 
iii}"' th(>  i)osition  of  liie  ii\er  entiaiice.  The  lhi;4lish  Admiralty  Chart  No.  L'Kll, 
witii  corrections  to  March  JSti,"*,  still  has  this  linht  house  markeil  as  existin;;. 


126 


COAST  PILOT  OF  OREGON. 


TUB  UIVEU  INSIDE  TITS  ENTRANCE. 

After  crossinfi;  the  bar  the  channel  runs  close  to  tlie  south  shore,  and  increases 
in  depth  from  three  and  a  half  fathoms  to  thirteen  ott"  the  point  of  blulf.  Abreast 
of  the  meeting  of  the  sand  beach  and  bluft'  on  the  south  side  lies  a  rod:,  visible 
at  extreme  low  tide,  upon  the  tliree-fathom  line.  It  is  not  laid  down  on  any  chart, 
nor  has  its  iiosition  been  accurately  determined.  It  has  deep  water  around  it. 
From  the  point  of  blutl"  vessels  steer  across  the  river,  to  strike  the  east  side  of  the 
north  point  about  one-third  of  a  mile  from  its  extremity,  then  liaid  across  east- 
northeast  to  the  other  shore,  close  along  which  the  channel  runs.  This  course 
takes  them  clear  of  a  flat  and  rocks  in  mid-river,  which  bear  east-northeast  from 
the  south  end  of  the  north  point,  and  north  tive-eightlis  of  a  mile  from  the  ])oint 
of  blutf  on  the  south  side.  The  small  indentation  of  the  shore-line  on  the  right, 
after  making  the  first  stretch  from  the  point  of  blulf,  is  called  Winchester  Bay. 
It  has  no  water,  being  but  an  extensive  mud  fiat.  Three  miles  inside  the  light- 
house, the  river  continues  half  a  mile  wide,  then  expands  to  a  mih;,  and  is  filled 
with  }iumerous  extensive  sand  and  mud  fiats.  Five  miles  from  the  light-house  it 
bends  sharply  to  the  eastward. 

A  iireliminary  chart  of  the  enti'ance  to  Umpcpiah  Eiver  was  issued  from  the 
Coast  Survey  ottlce  in  1854. 

The  secondary  astronomical  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  was  on  the  west  side 
of  the  I'ivcr,  on  the  edge  of  tht^  first  grove  of  spruce,  and  one  mile  from  the  end  of 
the  north  point.    Its  geographical  position  is : 

Latitude 43  41  4r,.3  north. 

Longitude 124  09  57.0  west. 

/(.     HI.      S. 

Or,  in  time 8  10  39.8. 

This  river  is  said  to  drain  an  extrenu'ly  fertile  region,  abounding  in  prairie 
hind  well  adapted  to  agriculture  and  grazing.  Koss  Cox  mentions  a  pine  tree  dis- 
covered in  the  Un)p(iuah  Valley  nu'asuring  two  hundred  and  sixteen  feet  to  its  low- 
est branches,  and  being  fifty-seven  feet  in  circumference. 

Tebenkotf  has  the  entrance  and  Indian  villa cv  at  the  mouth  in  latitude  4.1   HO'. 

The  Indian  iiaiiic  for  the  river  below  the  rapids  is  Kah-la-wat-set,  and  lo  the 
upper  part  they  ajjjtly  the  name  Umpt'quah. 

The  first  \esscl  we  know  of  entering  it  was  the  schooner  SamllobcJts,  August 
4,  1850,  after  coming  out  of  Ifoguc  Kiver. 

This  river  is  sometimes  supposed  to  be  the  rivur  dis«^>vered  by  Flores  in  1*;03, 
and  afterwards  referred  to  as  the  "  lliver  of  the  West."  Carver  in  hfej.  iMVrHitive 
refers  three  times  to  the  "  Oregon,  or  lli\er  o*'  til*'  West." 

From  the  Unip(iuah  the  coast  runs  in  a  nMnarkably  striiightllMMMIkbyw'est 
half  Avest  to  the  south  i)oiiit  of  the  entrance  to  ihe  Colnmbi*  BHVf'T.  in  no  case 
varying  more  than  threes  miles  eastward  of  tlie  line  Joining  tli«<N«'  two  places.  In 
latitude  43'^  58^',  two  and  a  half  iiiileH  ai>ove  lii^  positiou  tor  the  Um4>«^uali  eu 


ii'i 


ii.f 


rr 


kii 


I 


k^r^n 


1^^:^%     i^^ 


i  t 


!:• 


COAST  riLOT  OF  OK  KG  ON. 


127 


triiiice,  Teboiikoff  liiis  n  small  iiuU'iitation  cuHimI  SiilinaTi  Bay,  but  no  indication  of 
this  is  found  on  tne  Coast  Survey  reconnaissance.  In  latitude  tt^OSA'  he  has  a 
lar^e  stream  entering,  about  five  miles  south  of  Pcrpetua,  and  called  the  Zastikan 
liiver. 

Sixty-six  miles  northwest  by  north  from  Cape  Orford  is  the  southern  end  of  a 
bank  extendiu};'  parallel  with  the  coast  for  thirty  miles,  and  about  the  same  dis- 
tance from  it.  The  least  depth  yet  discovered  upon  it  is  forty-three  fathoms,  and 
the  nature  of  the  bottom  very  variabh",  there  bein<;f  blue  mud,  coarse  blue  sand, 
coral,  i)ebbles,  gravel,  mud,  aiul  shells.  Coasting-  vessels  have  often  reporttvl  pass- 
ing over  localities  having  a  heavy  swell  upon  them,  and  one  fre(|UcMtly  so  reported 
near  the  rmp«|uah  led  to  the  examination  which  discovered  this  bank.  AVhen 
lleceta  was  upon  this  coast,  and  in  this  vicinity,  he  said:  '>()n  Sunday  1  found 
great  ditterences  of  depth;  at  seven  leagues  I  got  bottom  at  eighty  fathoms;  and 
nearer  the  coast  I  sometimes  found  no  bottom."  Should  a  thorough  examination 
of  his  discoveries  here  satisfactorily  show  that  he  did  really  cross  this  or  any  yet 
undiscovered  adjacent  bank,  it  wi>uld  be  a  tribute  to  his  explorations  on  tiiis  coast 
to  apply  his  name  to  it. 

IIKC'ETA   HEAD. 


Il 


PI 


-1i 


The  seaward  face  of  this  headland  is  about  one  and  a  half  or  two  miles  in 
extent,  and  the  iH)rthern  extremity  in  latitude  41°  OfH.  ai)proximately.  It  is  <|nite 
iH)ticeable  when  coming  from  the  southward  as  being  the  northern  limit  of  a  long- 
extent  of  l(»w  sand  dunes,  backed  by  low,  wooded  hills,  stretching  from  near  the 
Umpcpiah  liiver.  Northward  of  it  the  shore  is  moderately  high,  but  brnUeii  l)y 
sandy  patches  of  sloping  bluff.  The  summit  of  the  head  is  about  eight  iuuidrcd 
feet  above  the  sea,  and  covered  with  wood,  but  the  seaward  face  is  green  to  the 
edge  of  thedift".  Two  small  <'asca(h's  are  seen  near  the  south«'rn  part,  and  a  small 
sandy  cove  near  ihe  northern.  To  the  westward  of  this  ca[te  lies  the  lleecta 
baidc. 

CAl'E  rEUl'ETUA. 

After  leaving  the  Umpquah  two  or  three  miles,  a  bohl  rocky  c(»ast,  with  high 
steep  hills  covered  with  tind»er,  runs  straight  for  aitout  eight  miles,  changing'  to 
low  san<ly  beach  with  sand  duiu's,  backed  by  a  high  ridge  of  hills.  This  continues 
for  lilteen  miles,  when  the  hills  stretch  out  to  the  shore  and  crowd  upon  it  for  thir- 
teen miles,  to  end  abruptly  in  steei»  blulfs  forming  Capi'  l'i'ri»etua,  which  is  thirty- 
nine  miles  north  by  west  half  west  from  Cmpqindi  light.  The  face  of  the  cape 
is  nearly  five  miles  long,  with  very  slight  projection  from  the  straight  trend  of  the 
shore.  It  is  very  high,  ainl  has  a  regular  altlutugh  stee[>  descent  to  the  shore, 
bringing  the  trees  to  its  very  edge. 

The  approximate  elevation  of  this  wooded  liea<lland  is  eight  hundred  feet.  It 
lies  about  south  IIP  east,  twenty-four  miles  from  Cape  I<\>ulweathei',  ai.'d  is  in  lati- 
tude l-to  ly/j  \yitii  (In.  coast  line  running  almost  straight  to  the  latter  point.     The 


!. 


I 
I 

u 


I 


Mi 


a 


\ 


128 


COAST  PILOT  OF  OIJEOON. 


south  faooot'tlie  Ciipc  .strotcln'saboiit  a  mile  to  tlic  eastward,  and  tlic  Tace  issliarj), 
bold,  and  rocky.  One  mile  nortli  oi'  it  is  tiic  tMitrancc  to  the  small  strciin  naniccl 
the  Ya-chats,  on  the  north  hank  of  wiiich  is  the  Indian  aj^cncy  of  Alscya. 

]\I()unt  Va-chats,  cstiniatcil  at  two  thonsand  feet  elevation,  lies  noith  .'57°  oast, 
live  (tr  six  miles  distant  from  Cape  Peri)otua. 

Two  and  a  half  miles  north  of  L'erpetua  the  shore  ehanfj^es  from  a  hold,  roeky 
outline  to  a  sand  beach,  borch-red  With  tindter  almost  to  the  water's  ed<;e. 

At  eij-lit  and  a  half  miles  northward  of  the  cape  is  the  entrance  to  the  Alseya 
Eiver,  with  a  l>road  sandy  i)oint  forming'  the  lutrthhead.  The  liver  exi)ands  nearly 
to  the  size  of  the  Yacpiina,  but  the  depth  of  wat^'r  ui)on  the  bar  is  unknown. 
For  four  miles  northward  of  this  river  to  the  Seal  Koeks  the  shore  is  marked  by 
sand  dunes;  thence  to  the  mouth  of  the  Yaquina  IJiver  the  shore  is  low  and 
heavily  wooded. 

YAQUIXA  ElVlilJ. 

As  seen  from  the  southwest  the  entrance  to  this  snmll  river  exhibits  a  Inuii, 
bold,  sandy  bbift'on  the  north  side,  with  a  clump  of  spruce  orpine  ou  the  top,  near 
the  southern  extremity.  Stretchinjj-  three-eij;hths  of  a  mile  south  by  Avest  from 
this  blulf  is  a  broken  line  of  low,  black  rocks.  The  south  point  of  the  eutraiu'e  is 
lowi'r  than  the  north,  not  bluH'  but  sandy,  and  heavily  tindiered  to  within  a  short 
distance  of  the  beach.  AVhen  the  entrance  has  the  above  bearing,  the  low  extrem- 
ity of  the  south  point  is  seen  inside,  in  line  with  the  end  of  the  low  bhiek  reef.  A 
small  house  ou  the  inner  side  of  the.  south  point  Just  opens  out  from  the  north  line 
of  the  timber;  and  the  line  of  breakers  across  the  entrance  stretches  from  the 
rocks  to  the  southern  shore.  The  topoj^raphy  of  the  country  behind  the  shore 
exhibits  hillocks  covered  with  jtine,  and  rising  to  elevations  of  about  three  hun- 
dred feet  to  the  base  of  the  Coast  uu)untains,  about  four  or  live  miles  from  the 
ocean,  and  heavily  timbered  to  their  sununits. 

The  nortli  head  is  the  extremity  of  a  peninsula  about  one  mile  long  and  half  a 
mile  wide;  its  sea-shore  stretches  northward  for  about  three  and  a  half  miles  to  the 
■[loint  designated  Cai»e  Foulweather  on  the  Coast  Survey  maps.  The  shore  is  a 
long  line  of  blufl;'  composed  of  hard  sand  ami  soft  rock,  from  one  to  two  hundred 
feet  ill  lieight. 

The  bar  of  this  river  lies  at  the  south  point  of  the  reef,  making  out  three- 
eighths  of  a  mile  south  from  the  north  head,  and  is  about  half  a  mile  broad  oft"  the 
south  point.  It  is  quite  narrow,  and  never  free  from  breakers  except  at  extreme 
high  water,  when  it  ai)pears  about  half  a  mile  wide.  The  depth  of  water  upon  it 
is  not  over  nine  and  a  half  feet  at  low  water.  A  vessel  drawing  eigiit  and  a  half 
feet  has  been  taken  over  al  dead  low  water,  just  touching  her  keel.  The  Avater  ou 
the  bar  is  rejierted  smoothest  in  -lune,  -Inly,  and  August.  The,  current  is  very 
strong  in  the  channel  Ix'tween  the  iu-ads,  being  estimated  at  five  or  six  knots 
when  strongest;  a  whale-boat  cannot  pull  agauist  it.  The  summer  winds  are 
favorable  {'o§  both  entering  and  leaving.    It  is  reported  that  southeast  gales  do 


I 


fl 


.^r^ ; 


i 


m  . 


r 


COAST  PILOT  OF  OlIKGON.  12i) 

not  I'haiific  Ihc  bar,  and  tlii.s  appears  probable  on  aeeomit  ol'  the  roeky  nature  of 
tlie  north  side. 

Tlie  fjoof^rapliical  position  of  this  river  lias  not  been  iic(  nratcly  determined;  it 
is  approximately  placed  by  the  United  States  Coast  Sin  xcy  in — 

T.atitmh' 44  :!().2  north. 

Lon;L;itiide l-'l  04      west. 

/(.    lit. 
Or,  in  1  iiiie -S  l(i 

About  three-iinarters  of  a  mile  I'rom  the  siiuie,  and  one-quarter  of  a  mile 
outside  the  bar,  a  very  danyerous  reef  of  rocks  extends  in  a  north  and  soutli 
tlirection,  havinj;'  many  small,  narrow,  and  (hiiij;ei'oiis  ehannels  across  it.  This 
reef  is  one  and  tiiree-eiyhths  mile  lonj;,  and  lies  between  the  bearing  of  outer 
ran;;'!'  beacon  nortiieast  by  east,  and  the  same  Iteacoii  beariii};'  east  l»y  simtli 
three-ipiaiters  south.  It  is  composed  of  a  yreat  number  of  rocks,  with  from  six  to 
eij-htceii  feet  mion  them  at  low  water,  and  separated  from  eai-Ii  otlier  by  channels 
of  various  widths  from  twenty  yards  to  thrce-ciuartcrs  of  a  mile.  Inside  of  the  reef 
is  a  channel  riinniii;^'  nearly  north  and  south  one-cpiaiter  of  a  mile  wide,  ami 
bounded  on  the  eastern  or  inshore  side  by  the  breakers  of  Vatpiiiia  l>ay. 

This  reef,  which  forms  such  a  dani^erous  obstruction  to  the  approaches  to  this 
river  and  bay,  serves,  however,  as  a  natural  breakwatei'  aj^ainst  the  westerly  seas, 
which  would  otherwise  render  this  bar  impassable  except  at  hi^h  water,  and  in  tlio 
smoothest  weather.  As  it  is,  in  lieavy  weather  it  is  not  [lossiblc  to  cross  the  bar. 
There  is  a  very  (hin};'erous  sunken  rock  with  twelve  feet  at  mean  low  water,  which 
lies  to  the  rij;ht  of  the  entrance,  and  a  little  over  a  mile  oft"  the  shore.  From  this 
rock  the  western  I'aiige  beacon  bears  northeast  by  north  half  north,  and  is  dis- 
tant two  miles.  The  beacon  on  the  north  head  bears  north  by  east  half  east, 
and  is  distant  two  and  one-eighth  miles.  These  bearings  will  enable  vessels  to 
avoid  the  shoal. 

Trade  was  drawn  hither  by  the  oyster  beds  in  the  river.  These  liave  been 
exhausted,  and  a  small  tratUe  is  maintained  in  lumber.  There  is  cue  saw-mill 
there,  cutting-  eight  to  ten  thou.sand  feet  per  daj'. 

Inside  the  bar,  Xewi)ort  is  located  on  the  east  side  of  the  north  head ;  ahd 
the  river  has  a  general  course  northeast  by  east  three-cpiartcrs  east,  for  twelve 
miles  to  Flk  C-ity,  the  commencement  of  the  military  road  to  the  Willamette  Val- 
ley. Ibit,  by  the  windings  of  the  river,  the  distance  is  about  twenty-three  miles. 
In  that  distance  it  makes  a  course  like  the  letter  S  repeated.  For  two  and  one 
(pia  •l<'r  1.1 -es  the  north  shore  of  the  river  runs  about  northeast  by  east  three-iiuar- 
ters  i!ast,  w'ltli  a  width  of  one  mile,  tilled  Avith  tlats;  thence  it  makes  a  large  bend 
to  til'  soiiilieast  for  tliiee  and  a  half  miles;  and,  sweeping  north  again,  touches 
the  line  between  Xewport  and  Elk  City  about  seven  and  a  half  miles  from  the 
former,  where  it  receives  a  small  stream  from  the  north,  and  is  only  live  or  six 
huiulred  yards  wide.  Theu  bending  agaiu  for  two  aud  a  half  miles  to  the  south, 
17* 


11 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


11= 
11.25 


■ii|2£    125 

I;  IHli^S 

■huu 

U    11.6 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


33  WEST  M/«:i4  £  »f  £r 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  .4S<iO 

(716)  S73-4S03 


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130 


COAST  riLOT  OF  OREGON. 


f  I 


lit 


ns  I 


ami  tiirniii^j  rnpidly  north,  it  crossos  the  iibove  connecting  line  ^ith  a  width  of 
two  Inindred  and  lit'ty  yards  at  ten  niiU's  from  Xewimrt.  It  cuntinnes  nortli  of  this 
line  for  a  mile,  then  sweejts  south  two  miles  beyond  the  above  line,  and  returns 
northward  to  Elk  City,  the  head  of  tide-water,  to  which  a  depth  of  nine  feet  can 
be  carried.  In  the  first  };reat  bend  two  small  islets  are  found  where  the  river 
expands.  Its  banks  are  cov;>red  with  a  thick  {irowth  of  spruce,  pine,  and  alder. 
A  small  steand)oat  plies  occasionally  between  Elk  City  and  New[)ort. 

Ab(»ut  three  miles  mnth  of  the  entrance  is  the  headland  known  as  Yaquina 
I'oint,  whose  grassy  heads,  when  two  or  three  miles  off  Vaquina  Itiver,  show 
against  the  bolder  and  marked  head  of  Cape  Foulweather.  It  has  a  high,  bold 
]»oint,  extending  into  the  sea  about  a  ha.lf  »«•  three-cpjarters  of  a  mile  from  the 
beach  southward.  It  has  on  it  two  conical  hills,  between  three  and  four  hundred 
feet  high,  and  exactly  similar  in  shape.  There  is  no  trace  of  its  ever  having  been 
W(»oded.  It  is  in  latitude  14°  40'  north,  and  longitude  lli4°  04'  west,  and  will  serve 
as  a  good  mark  fm'  making  the  mouth  of  the  Yaquina. 

A  beacon  has  been  built  upon  the  north  head,  as  a  guide  in  nniking  the 
entrance,  aiul  two  beacons  are  jdaced  on  the  south  point,  west  by  south  half 
south,  and  east  by  north  half  north  of  each  other,  as  a  range  for  crossing  the 
bar.  They  arc  about  four  hundred  yards  apart,  and  form  an  excellent  channel 
mark. 

SAILING  UIUKCTIONH. 

This  bar  and  e"itriv>ce  was  surv»'yed  by  the  Coast  Survey  in  1S(;S.  The  sail- 
ing directions  given  below  are  compiled  from  the  results  of  that  examination. 

Comincf  from  the  Houtli ward,  vessels  slnudd  lirst  make  Cape  Terpetua,  twenty- 
two  and  a  half  miles  to  the  southward  of  the  mouth  of  the  Yacpiiua,  and,  if  possi- 
ble, keep  the  slnu'c  in  view  up  to  the  entrance.  Cape  I'erpetua  may  be  recognized 
by  its  steep  blutVs,  thickly  wooded,  Avhich  jut  out  boldly  into  the  water,  and  by  the 
view  given  of  it  in  this  work. 

After  sighting  Cape  I'erpetua  steer  north  a  little  westerly  for  the  Yaquina. 
AVheu  up  with  tlu'  entrance,  bring  the  beacon  on  the  north  head  to  bear  nortli- 
nortlu'ast,  and  steer  for  it  out*  aiul  one-eighth  miles,  until  the  outer  or  western  range 
b«-acon  bears  northeast,  when  you  must  steer  north  one-third  west  for  a  little  over 
half  a  mile,  until  jou  bring  the  two  beacons  in  range.  Cross  the  liar  on  this  range, 
steering  east  by  north  half  north,  and  contiinu;  this  ccmrse  until  you  bring  the 
bea<'on  on  the  north  head  to  bear  north  by  west  half  west,  when  steer  north 
by  east  three-quarters  east,  and  rouiul  the  point  ai  a  distance  of  about  one  hun- 
dred yards,  until  abreast  of  the  town  of  Newport,  when  you  may  ancho"  in  from 
four  to  five  fathoms. 

Of  these  courses,  the  first  (ncu'th-northeast)  carries  you  about  four  Inuu^-cd 
yards  to  the  northward  of  the  detached  rock  nu'iitittncd  above,  ami  ycm  w  ill  have 
nothing  less  than  tive  fathoms.  The  second  (north  one-third  west)  jjasscs  om;- 
eighth  of  a  mile  to  the  eastward  of  the  outer  reef,  and  has  nothing  less  than  four 


COAST  I'lLOT  OF  01{I<:(J0N. 


131 


a  width  of 
until  of  this 
and  ictuiiis 
ine  feet  (•an 
ro  tlie  river 
,  ami  alder. 

as  Yaquina 
liver,  show 
i  Uiiih,  bold 
e  from  tho 
iir  hundred 
aviiij^'  been 
.1  will  servo 

lakins'  the 
south  half 
'ossinjj  tho 
it  ehanuel 


The  sail- 
ition. 

II,  twenty- 
l,  if  i)ossi- 
eeofjiiized 
lid  by  tho 

Yaquina. 
•ar  iiortii- 
ern  ruiiHo 
ittle  over 
lisraiifi'o, 
ln'iny  the 
<'!•  north 
Diie  huii- 
!•  iu  from 

hull(^•ed 

ill  have 

ises  one- 

lan  four 


fathom.s.  In  crossiii}-'  the  bar  your  shoalesfc  sounding  will  be  nine  feet,  and  will 
cai'y  you  eloser  lo  tlu^  south  breakers  than  Ut  the  mu'tli.  In  one  [dace  the  ranj^o 
passes  within  si.vty  yards  of  the  ed)j;e  of  the  breakers.  But,  as  the  (h-pth  is  iini- 
forni  here,  yon  may,  sliould  you  j-et  too  close  to  the  south  shoals,  edge  a  little  over 
to  llie  northward  withtmt  fear  of  lindin*;-  less  water. 

Com iiKj  from  the  norfkicard  ves.sels  should  sight  Cape  Foulweather,  run  in  to 
M'ithin  one  and  a  half  mile  of  it,  and  steer  southeast  by  south  quarter  south 
until  (hey  are  in  lifteen  fathom.s,  and  have  the  beaeon  on  the  north  head  bearing 
east  quarter  south.  Now  steer  for  the  beaeon  and  eonlinue  y(»ur  eonrse  for  a 
little  over  one  and  a  quarter  mile  until  the  extreme  western  point  of  Cape  Foul- 
weather  bears  uorth-uorthwest,  when  haul  round  south-southeast,  which  course 
yon  must  continue  for  tive-eighths  of  a  mile,  until  you  bring  the  two  beacons  on 
the  south  head  in  range,  when  you  must  cross  the  bar  on  the  range  and  [iroceed 
as  before  directed. 

Of  these  cour.ses,  the  first  (ea.st  quarter  south  for  the  north  beacon)  leads 
across  the  northwestern  end  of  the  outer  reef,  through  a  bnjak  in  its  line,  and 
between  tw(»  rocks  with  eleven  and  tweivo  feet  on  them  at  low  tide.  The  coiirso 
gives  both  rocks  a  berth  of  at  least  one  hiuidred  and  fifty  yards,  and  you  will  have 
nothing  less  than  four  fathoms  at  low  water.  The  second  course  (.south-sonth<'ast) 
carries  you  uj*  the  channel  between  the  outer  reef  and  the  bar,  in  nothing  less 
than  four  fathom.s,  and  brings  you  to  the  bar.  You  cross  the  bar  in  the  same 
water  and  on  the  same  range  as  in  entering  from  the  .soutliward. 

The  Coast  Survey  chart  of  Yaquina  Bay  entrance  shows  the  depth  of  water 
on  the  bar  and  ajqiroaches  at  mean  low  water,  the  soundings  being  reduced  to 
the  mean  of  the  lowest  low  waters. 

Tulcs. — The  two  tides  of  the  same  day  are  generally  unecpial  iu  i>roportion  to 
the  moon's  declination.  The  time  and  height  can  be  obtained  approximately  from 
the  following  table: 


Ml  Kill 

'.**  U]iiH'i'  tnrl'iiUaii  |ia»Hii;;i'. 

Jlmin'n  liiwri-  111 

■ridiaii  |ui.'<«aai'. 

llnnn'.-*   (IrcliniUitin. 

HiKh  M 

•ill  IT. 

Low  wntiT. 

Uisli  VFator. 

low  wiilor. 

Interval. 

H.lKlrt. 

Interval. 

Ui'iK'lit. 

liitorvnl. 

UoiKtil. 

f...... 

li.  1 

7.H 
7.7 

Iiitorval. 

Ui'ittht. 

n.  -If. 

11   17 
11  ,5!l 
H  35 

r.et. 

7.7 
7.H 
(i.  I 

n.it. 

18  (K» 
Itl  00 
17  51 

Feet. 
-0,4 
0.  H 
3.0 

n.  U. 

\-i  ','5 
11  .-lU 
U  17 

ir.  .If. 

17  51 
If  0!t 

it<  oa 

Feet. 
3,  0 

Zero 

II.  ,i 

Groiitoat  hoiiIIi     

—0.4 

The  interval  is  to  be  added  to  the  time  of  the  moon's  meridian  passage  to  give 
the  time  of  high  or  low  water.  The  time  of  the  mooirs  upper  meridian  jiassage 
is  given  in  the  Almanac,  and  the  time  of  its  lower  meridian  passage  is  tho  middle 
between  two  successive  ujiper  p'ssages.  The  heights  are  given  in  feet  and 
tenths,  and  show  the  rise  above  the  level  of  tlii!  average  of  the  lowest  low  waters, 
to  which  level  the  soundings  on  the  chart  are  given. 


132 


COAflT  PILOT  OF  OREGON. 


Sprhuf  thlcH. — x\t  tho  full  and  I'liaii^e  of  the  moon  the  hi{j;h  waters  will  be  1.0 
foot  hi<ilH'r  than  the  above,  and  the  low  waters  O.G  foot  lower. 

Xcap  tidi's. — At  the  moon's  first  and  last  (luarters  the  hi^Ii  waters  will  be  1.0 
foot  lower,  and  the  low  waters  will  not  fall  as  low  by  0.0  foot. 


YACil'IXA  POIXT. 

From  Perpetua  to  this  eape  the  s(»nndin}^s  ranjije  from  seven  to  twelve 
fathoms  abon.  a  mile  from  shore.  The  eai»e  is  in  latitude  41^  40'  north  and  lonjji- 
tutU'  ll'l'^  04'  west,  (l>oth  approximate,)  and  forms  a  hi;jh,  bold  headhiinl,  half  a 
mile  in  width,  jnttinjf  out  about  half  a  mile  from  tlu^  low  beaeh,  and  backed  by 
liigh  mountains.  It  has  sev«'ial  small  r<»eks  on  its  southwest  face,  with  one  nteky 
islet  a  mile  fntm  it.  To  the  ntnthward  of  the  cape  are  three  rocky  islets  standinj^ 
a  short  distance  from  the  low  beach,  and  readily  distinj,'uislied  by  beinfj;  pntjectted 
as'ainsl  it.  In  Aujjust  J.S.'i;},  the  astronomical  jtarty  of  the  ('oast  Survey  was 
very  desirous  (»f  etfectin*,'  a  landinjif  on  or  near  this  cape,  but  the  sea  was  ntlling 
in  too  heavily  to  warrant  the  attempt.  There  was  no  appearance  of  a  landin<; 
beinj;;  at  all  feasible,  ex<*e|>t  in  remarkably  «iuiet  weather.  These  opinions  have 
since  been  verilied  by  the  surveyin;^  parties  of  the  (.!oast  Survey,  who  have  since 
hiiuled  on  this  part  of  the  coast,  and  comi»leted  its  examination. 

In  moderate  northwest  winds  anchoratje  may  be  had  under  the  two  }?™'^''^y 
lieads  of  Y^aquina  Point  in  four  fathoms,  sandy  bottom,  about  three  hundred  and 
fifty  yards  southwai'd  of  the  rcxiks,  with  the  islet  one-third  of  a  mile  inside,  tho 
cape  bearinji  west  by  north  two  thirds  north.  Tliis  jjosition  will  be  about  three 
hundred  yards  from  the  line  of  three  fathoms  water  to  the  eastward,  and  nearly 
half  a  mile  from  thi'  beach.  The  soundinj^s  do  not  indicate  any  hidden  danf>ers. 
IJoat  lamUng  nmy  be  sometimes  had  on  the  south  face  of  the  rocks,  but  never  on 
the  beach. 

The  two  grassy  hills  of  Yaipiina  Point  are  three  hundred  and  sixty  and  four 
hundred  and  seven  feet  hij^h,  with  wooded  mountains  of  one  thousand  feet  eleva- 
tion a  mile  or  two  eastward  of  them.  These  j^rass  hills  form  a  peculiar  feature  for 
uuikiug  this  headland. 

CAPE   FOULWTjIATHER. 

Nearly  four  miles  northward  of  Y'afpiina  Poii't  commences  the  long,  bold  face 
of  this  headland.  From  Yaquina  Point  tlu>  tour  miles  of  shore  is  bordered  with 
low,  yvillow  brok(Mi  <!litfs,  covc^'ed  with  standing  burnt  timber.  A  low,  tiat,  black 
rock  lies  about  half  a  mile  off  shore,  and  nearly  three  miles  north  of  tlu^  jxMut, 
while  a  large  oue,  the  same  distance  off  shore,  I'cs  just  soutii  of  the  southern  limit 
of  the  cnpe. 

The  whole  face  of  the  cape  is  about  five  and  a  half  miles  in  extent,  north- 
northwest  and  soutli  southeast,  and  nuirked  by  six  or  seven  sloping  grassy  heads, 
reaching  from  the  sea-clilfs  to  the  heavy  timber  whic^h  crowns  them,  while  tind)er 


tons  will  be  1.0 
era  will  be  1.0 


on  to  tweh-e 
itli  and  l()M<>i- 
Kllaiid,  half  ji 
i<l   Ijackcd  by 
itii  one  rocky 
ifcts  .staiidiiijif 
iuff  pnjjccted 
►Survey  was 
'  was  rolliiiff 
<»f  a  laiidiii<f 
)iiiioiis  have 
'  liave  since 

two  jyrassy 
iiiidred  and 
i  inside,  tlio 
itbout  tlireo 
and  nearly 
in  danf-ers. 
t  never  (»u 

y  and  four 
feet  elcvii- 
featiu-e  for 


>  luild  fiujc 
lered  with 
rtat,  blaek 
the  i)oint, 
liern  limit 


r^      -M 


m 


m 

t^*'*!! 


i;.** 


iVd 


•it  3 


lit,  north- 
's.v  heads, 
le  tinilu'r 


,(  :l    .   ' 


li 


i; 


ff: 


■SI 


COAST  PILOT  OF  ORE^JON. 


1133 


filln  the  <;iilclu'.s  between  them.    Tlie  eleviitioii  of  the  head  iipitear.s  to  be  about 
eight  hiiiulretl  IW't. 

Tlie  westeriiiiiost  point  ol'tlie  eai)e  is  about  seven  uiiU's  noithwai'd  of  Yacjuina 
Point,  and  is  marked  by  a  l()w  {frass-eovered  tabh>  projecting  Just  to  tlu'  north- 
ward. North  of  tiiis  tabh',  and  beinnd  a  bhicli  ludnt  of  tlu'  same  height,  stretch- 
ing southward,  is  an  opening  to  a  small  eov.',  with  yellow  elitf  and  sand  b«'ach 
within,  upon  which  no  surf  was  seen.  It  se«'med  probable  that  a  boat  landing 
could  be  safely  elfectcd  there  iu  ordinary  northwest  winds.  This  black  i»oiut  is 
nnirked  by  a  dense  cluster  of  woods. 

The  northern  extremity  of  the  caite  is  ab(mt  nine  and  a  half  miles  from 
Yariuina  Point;  thence  northward  the  shore  is  comi»aratively  low,  and  bonh-red 
by  a  sand  beach. 

This  cape  was  uanu'd  by  Cook  on  the  day  he  ma(h'  the  coast,  March  0,  177S. 
At  noon  h«'  was  in  latitude  44°  .'$.'5',  and  the  hind  exteu(U'd  from  n«»rtheast  half 
mirth  to  siMith(>ast  by  south,  about  eight  leagues  distant.  In  this  situation  he  had 
scventy-tlircc  fathoms  over  a  muddy  bottom,  and  niuety  fathoius  a  league  further 
off  shore.  The  lan<l  he  describes  <»f  moderate  height,  diversitied  by  hills  and  val- 
leys, and  ]uiucii»ally  covered  with  wood.  No  striking  object  prcs«'nted  itself, 
except  a  high  hill  with  a  thit  suruiuit,  which  bore  east  from  him  at  noon.  At  the. 
noi'tht  rn  extreme  the  land  fornu'd  a  point,  which  he  named  Cajie  Foulweather, 
from  the  exceeding  liad  weather  he  nu't  with  so(»n  after.  The  cxjtressiou  "nortli- 
eni  extrenu'"  has  led  some  geographers  to  jtlace  the  eap(!  as  high  as  latitudt; 
4oA°,  but  h(^  Jndged  the  Fcudweather  he  named  to  be  in  44°  50'.  Leing  hero 
driven  olf  the  coast  by  contiinu'd  l»ad  weather,  he  had  no  oi»portuuity  to  verily  his 
position,  and  did  not  sight  the  land  again  until  in  latitude  47°  0.7,  thus  passing  by 
the  entrance  to  the  Cobuubia.  Vancouver  jihu'cs  it  in  latitude  44°  41('.  JJoth 
of  these  determinations  evich'utly  refer  to  the  northern  part  of  tlu'  high  land, 
seven  miles  north  of  the  head  called  Cape  Foulweather  on  the  Coast  Survey 
charts. 

If  we  plot  Cook's  beariiiga  we  find  tliat  in  latitude  44°  :V.V,  hmgitude  124°  23', 
tlu'iy  cut  the  northern  part  of  the  highland  of  Caju'  Foidweather  in  latitude  44°  52' 
twenty-three  miles  distant;  and  the  southern  part  of  ('ape  Peipetua  in  latitude 
44°  10'  twenty-two  miles  distant;  while  the  low  shore  directly  east  is  distant  tbur- 
teeu  miles,  and  bacrked  by  high  hills.  Seven  miles  outside  of  the  position  where  he 
got  seventy-three  fathoms,  the  Coast  Survey  lay  ilown  mi  bott«mi  at  one  humlred 
fathoms.  Tebenkotf  gives  seventy-tliree  fathoms,  sandy  bottom,  eight  miles  from 
shore  iu  latitude  44°  ;J2',  hut  the  bearings  of  Foulweather  and  Perpetua  place  this 
sounding  only  live  miles  oft'  shore. 

Kchifi  liiver. — Soon  after  ])assing  Foulweather  the  shoro  becomes  abrupt  ami 
nmderately  high,  with  an  increased  de|)th  of  water  iiumediately  olf  it.  Four  miles 
south  of  the  Nekas,  which  is  in  latitude  44°  50',  it  changes  to  h»w  saml  duues 
stretching  into  a  narrow  point,  forming  the  south  point  of  the  stream,  while  the 


134 


COAST  PILOT  OF  OllEUON. 


iiortli  point  is  a  low  l»]ull'.  The  ciitriiiico  is  very  narrow  and  shoal,  tlu'  nortli  point 
is  marked  by  the  sontlu-rn  cxtrcniity  oC  a  low,  yt-llow  bliill',  wliicli  runs  iiortliward 
tlirt'o  or  Tour  miles  to  the  ;;rassy  hilloeks  south  of  Cascade  iload.  Inside,  the  river 
is  reported  to  spread  out  into  a  bay  of  about  a  mile  in  extent,  and  to  reeeivc  tho 
waters  of  a  stream  draining,'  a  vaUey  (•(•minj,'  from  the  eastward  The  name  is  that 
used  on  the  Coast  Survey  'harts  of  ls.")(>  antl  1853.  Prtjvious  maps  have  a  small 
stream  emptyinj;'  near  this,  called  tho  Cowes  lliver.  J>o  ^lofras  calls  it  tho 
Yaeoun. 

In  latitude  45°  2' Tebenkolf  jilaccs  the  mouth  of  tho  rivor  Yaeoun;  while  in 
latituth'  45°  ;U',  on  the  north  side  of  La  .Mesa,  he  has  the  river  Nikas. 

From  the  Nekas  t«)  Caju'  Lookout  the  distance  is  twenty-four  miles,  and 
course  north  by  west  half  west,  with  a  shore-line  broken  by  several  small  streams, 
anionj:;st  which  are  the  Xechesne  (reconnaissance  l.S."».'})  in  latitude  4."P  (L",  with  rocks 
in  the,  entrance;  the  X4'stu;;jiah  (reconnaissance  185;})  ju  latitude  4.1^  (M»',  (lalled 
Yaquinna  in  reconnaissance  of  l.S."»(»,  and  having-  a  larj;;o  rock  otf  its  mouth;  the 
Nawufit^ah  (recttnnaissance  IS."!.'})  in  latitude  t.'jO  14',  and  on  the  south  side  of 
whose  entrance  is  a  sin;;le  rocky  islet,  hereafter  referred  to. 

I)e  .Alofras  has  Cape  Lucuat  in  this  latitude,  and  a  small  stream.  River  Kaouai, 
south  of  it. 


CASCADE  HEAD. 


In  latitude  4.j°();^,  longitude  124°  02',  (both  approximate,)  ajagged  headland, 
with  a  sea-face  of  about  one  mile  in  extent,  shows  prominently  when  a  vessel  is  close 
in  shore.  The  s(»uth  face,  overlooking  a  cove,  is  without  trees  and  shows  very 
green.  The  top  of  the  ridge  which  attains  an  elevation  of  about  six  or  seven  hun- 
dred feet,  is  covered  with  spruce  trees;  also  the  ocean  front  except  where  it  is 
very  steep  and  rocky,  and  at  the  single  g«!ntle  slope  near  the  northern  extremity, 
at  th(^  foot  of  which  a  large  cavern  is  seen.  About  midway  along  the  face  of  the 
cajte,  and  halfway  up,  is  an  exposure  of  red  ro(!k  showing  plainly  when  the  sun  is 
shining  upon  it.  About  two-thirds  of  the  distance  from  the  southern  extremity  of 
the  cape  a  sharp  valley  makes  <»ut  directly  u[)on  the  sea,  and  a  cascade  from  a 
height  of  forty  or  fifty  feet  tails  ui)on  thi^  rocky  shore.  Four  humlred  yards  north- 
ward of  this  a  smaller  stream  of  water  leai)s  from  the  rocks,  but  it  is  soon  shut  in. 
These  pec-uliarities  have  caused  us  to  nanu>  it  Cascade  Head.  When  ai>in'oached 
from  the  north,  with  the  southern  extremity  of  the  cape  bearing  south  by  east, 
two  rocks  api)ear  just  touching  the  south  point.  The  outer  one  is  comparatively 
low  and  broad,  with  two  arches  through  it;  the  inner  arch  is  the  larger,  and 
thnnigh  it  is  seen  the  beach  beyond. 

As  seen  from  the  southward  this  cape  is  particularly  uoticeal)le  by  having 
two  or  three  great  sjmice  trees  standing  alone  and  above  the  surface  of  the  second 
higher  seaward  slope,  at  an  elevation  of  ju'rhaps  (iv<'  hundred  feet. 

A  small  indentation  of  the  slnn-e  nmkes  in  a  few  hundred  yards  southward  (»f 
the  head,  fnmi  which  stretch  out  three  large  b'ack  low  rocks,  api>arently  alfording 


',  the  north  itoiut 
I'  niiiH  iioitliwanl 
inside,  (hcrivrr 
kI  to  r('(;('ivo  tlio 
riie  iiiiiiic  is  thiit 
M*"*  liavc  a  small 
fiii.s  calls  it  tho 

'iKJOmi;  wliik' in 
kas. 

Coiir  iiiilos.  and 
1  sinail  sticjiiiis, 
^  <»-",  with  roclis 
450  (Mj',  called 
its  nudith;  the 
'  south  side  of 

,  IviveiKaoiiai, 


;ftt!(I  hoadlaiul, 
vessel  is  close 
id  shows  very 
or  seven  lum- 
pt  where  it  is 
sni  extremity, 
lie  face  of  the 
eu  the  sun  is 
I  extremity  of 
<cade  from  a 
yards  north- 
soon  shut  in. 
I  iij)j)roached 
nth  by  east, 
'iiipiuatively 
larger,  and 

>  by  having 

f  the  second 


"ithward  of 
ly  a  (fording 


! 


COAST  riLOT  OF  OHKdOX. 


m.-) 


l>rot«'ction  for  a  boat  laixliii^;  in  ordinary  noitliwrst  watlicr.  Tlie  widtli  nl  tliis 
<'ov«'  \vf  estimated  at  about  Haifa  mile,  and  tbe  <lepth  (lie  same.  At  flie  head  of 
it  tbere  is  tlie  openin;,'  of  a  small  valley,  tliroiifih  wiiieli  comes  u  stream  with  a 
shanty  near  its  banU.  This  may  be  tin'  Nechesne  l{iv«'r  of  the  ('oa.-t  Survey 
reconnaissance  chart.     The  south  side  of  tlie  cove  is  formed  by  the  L-rass    lu-ad  of 


ibtMit  th 


hundred  feet 


rh 


ith 


a  rnl^e,  aoont  three  or  lour  hiuiureil  teet  maU,  running;  southward  and  torniin^ 
the  si  ore  for  two  or  tiiree  miles,  and  decreasiu};'  in  elevation  tt»  only  thirty  or  forty 
feet  above  the  ocean.  It  is  without  timber,  and,  as  seen  from  tbe  sea,  is  beauti- 
fidly  };roen  and  rolling;.  South  of  this,  a<;ain,  for  four  er  live  miles  the  immediate 
shore  is  low  and  samly  with  siyns  of  a  lajj;oon  or  marsh  inside;  perhaps  the  waters 
of  the  Xekas. 

At  the  north  of  Cascade  Head  the  shore  retreats  somewhat  and  u  steep  sided, 
timbered  valley  ojtens  upon  the  sandy  beach,  -.here  the  timbers  of  a  wreck  wen; 
distinctly  visii)le  as  we  i»assed  within  a  mile  of  them  in  .Inly  l.S(i7.  The  valley 
ap])ears  to  run  southeastward  between  hi^li  hills,  i oin  the  mouth  of  the  valley 
northward  there  are  undulaliny  hillocks  jtleasantly  ;ireen  from  summit  to  beach, 
which  continue  to  the  oi)enin<;  of  a  stream  which,  by  the  run  of  the  steamer, 
should  be  about  nine  miles  north  of  the  south  part  of  Cascade  Head.  The  «»uter 
and  northern  bank  of  this  stream  is  sandy,  increasin<;'  to  sand  dunes  for  some 
miles.  Tlie  outermost  point  of  the  sand  beach  has  a  hijih  rock  otf  it.  The  eastern 
or  left  bank  of  this  stream  has  hi>;h  hiUocks  covereil  with  spruce,  and  behind 
them  api)eared  to  be  a  valley  stretching  far  to  the  southeast  with  a  hiyh  timl)ered 
ridge  llankinj;-  its  eastern  side. 

About  twelve  miles  from  the  s(uith  part  of  Cascade  Head  is  a  hif>li  rocky 
islet  ()f  r<  fiular  shape,  nan)ed  the  Haystack.  It  appears  t(»  be  nearly  half  a  mile  olf 
the  point,  and  jxtssibly  has  a  passage  around  it.  When  abreast  of  it,  a  large  slit, 
half  the  height  of  the  rock  from  the  sea,  shows  on  the  north  side,  as  if  an  irregular 
slab  of  rock  were  lying  against  it.  Tiu'  measured  height  of  the  Haystack  is  three 
hundred  and  seven  feet,  and  it  is  approximately  otf  the  i)osition  assigned  to 
the  Nawuggah  Iviver  on  the  Coast  Survey  chart,  in  latitude  4.''P  W.  Tebeidvolf 
puts  it  in  latitud*'  -iip  lU',  with  a  stream,  called  the  Kautie,  emptying  four  mih^s 
north  of  it.  The  Haystack  is  marked  on  the  Coast  Suivcy  chart.  Half  a  mih' 
northward  and  eastward  of  it  is  a  low  cavern-worn  yellowish  dill'  of  saiidslune, 
with  its  top  covered  with  grass,  and  the  inshore  slope  with  timber.  A  ridge  of 
drifting  sand  lies  inside  this  hillock,  which  is  about  one  hundred  ami  lifty  feet 
high.  About  half  or  three-(iuaiters  of  a  mile  north  of  this  dilf,  calle<l  Haystack 
I'oint,  a  very  small  stream  of  water  is  seen  cutting  through  the  sand  beach  at  low 


water. 


OAPE  LOOKOTTT. 


The  soundings  from  Foulweather  to  this  cai)e  show  from  thirteen  to  thirty-one 
fathoms  of  water  at  a  distance  of  a  mile  or  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  shore, 
increasing  from  eighteen  fathoms,  north  of  latitude  150  iu)rth. 


i:m 


COAST  PILOT  OF  OlIKdON. 


Til  is  en  po  is  Hitnafcd  in  liititiidt'  l."»o  liO',  loii;fitii(l('  llil°,  holli  !i])|>n)\iiiiat<>. 
It  pnii«>fts  liiiira  iiiilf  siiarplv  into  the  sea,  an*l  tlint-  apitfarn  sntliricnt  pinti-t-tiou 
under  tlif  sontli  side  lor  boat  iandin;;  in  nrdinar,\  noitlnvcst  weal  her,  and  p()ssii)ly 
•space  Inr  a  small  steamer  to  anelior  close  in.  As  seen  from  tlie  soiitlnvanl  the  top 
of  tluM-ape  is  toleralily  Hat  and  re;;nlai,  and  at  tin;  hijjliest  part  wejudp'  it  to  attain 
an  elevation  of  nearly  three  thousand  feet.  The  face  directly  toward  the  ocean  is 
not  more  than  a  qnarti  r  of  a  nule  wide,  abont  live  hundred  feet  hi^h,  rocky  and 
perjiendicidar;  above  that  elevation  the  cape  rises  rapi«lly  and  is  coveicd  with 
spruce,  except  the  s(»uthern  slope,  which  is  dcstitut<'  of  trees,  but  j;reen,  with  her 
baf-'e  abi>ve  the  jwrpcndicular  rocky  blnlf,  whicti  is  marked  by  small  «'avcrns.  On 
the  tu-ean  face  is  a  very  hn^e  deei»  cavern.  No  rocks  lie  otV  this  i-ape,  but  one 
appears  very  close  inshore  about  a  mile  to  the  northward  of  it.  As  seen  from  the 
north  it  is  arclu-d.  About  eif^Iit  nules  to  the  southward  is  thv'  hnjic  sin;ile  Hay- 
stack Uock  »)IV  the  Nawn^j^ali  Kiver,  three  hundred  and  seven  feet  hij;h,  and 
standiu};'  well  out  from  the  low  sand  beach  bchiiul  it. 

Five  miles  broad  olY  Cape  Lookout,  TebenkotV  }>ives  one  soniidiiij;'  in  (illy 
fatluuns  over  sandy  bott(»m;  and  thirteen  miles  ott'  the  cai)e  ho  notes  the  current 
runnin};  north  half  east.  The  Coast  Survey  clnrt  .yives  one  hundred  and  thirty 
fathoms  over  muddy  bottom  thirty-two  iiuks  west  by  north  one-quarter  north  from 
Cape  Lookout. 

The  nanu'  Looktuit  is  that  adopter!  on  the  Coast  Survey  cliaits  of  l.S."t(>  and 
18515,  ami  is  intended  to  ai)ply  to  the  cape  mentioned  ami  fully  described  in 
July  1778,  by  ^leares,  whose  descrijition  has  been  corroborated  by  Vancouver,  and 
Davidson's  examinations  of  18,~»7  and  18(57. 

For  January  bS,")!*,  the  line  of  ecpial  mafiuetic  variation  of  20°  oast  crosses  tho 
coastline  in  latitude  i'fi  'JIV,  ami  in  latitu(h'  i'P  l:V  crosses  the  ll.*.jth  de{j;Tee  of 
lonj;itutle.    This  line  annually  un»ves  about  one  niilo  soiitlnviird. 

CAVE  :mi:auiw,  ou  la  mksa. 

Two  or  three  miles  after  passinjif  Cape  Look(tut  the  land  falls  to  a  low  sand 
beach.  Behind  the  beach  is  a  loufjf  lagoon,  called  the  Xat-a-hats,  cominj;  from  the 
southeastward,  strctchiuf''  northward  parallel  to  the  ocean  beach,  and  oiu'uinj;- 
under  the  south  lu'ad  of  the  well  marked  point  named  Ca])C  .Aleares.  This  cape  is 
the  ternunation  of  a  tindu'red  spur  or  ridj^e  ruuuinj^-  from  the  southeastward, 
l)resentin};  an  abrujit  front  to  the  ocean  for  about  two  nules,  and  formiuj'-  the 
southwestern  '  oundary  to  Tillamook  Hay.  The  face  of  the  cape  is  hi>;h,  broken 
and  bluff,  and  increases  in  «'levation  as  it  retreats  from  the  shore.  It  is  covered 
with  spruce.  The  northern  end  of  the  cai)e  shows  a  thin  biij;ht  stratum  of  yellow 
earth  on  top  of  the  brown  rocky  shore,  and  about  two  hiuidred  and  fifty  feet  above 
the  water.  We  estimated  the  elevation  of  Cai)e  .Mea res  about  one  thousand  two 
hiuulrcd  feet  above  the  ocean.  A)»[)roached  from  the  southward  tour  lar<;t>  brown 
rocks  show  oft'  the  cape,  and  two  of  them  are  marked  by  arches  tluouj,di  them. 


COAST  PILOT  OF'  Oin'C.ON. 


.)  i 


losses  tlio 


The  rocks  arc  ;ilMiiit  one  liiiiMlrcd  and  lil'tN  Icfl  lii;;li,  cxn'pi  ilir  (iiiliriiiost.  u  liii  li 
is  ntiiipariitivily  Muall.  The  aiclus  llinnmli  lliicr  iil'  this  ;;riiii|i  air  iiiil\  snii  iVuni 
])ai'tifiilai'  tlircrlioiis.  Tlic  iiiiirr  arch  is  \  i>.ii)ic  \'\t>\i\  the  sdmiIiw  an!  u  licii  dn^c  in 
shnic;  the  outer  one  I'lonisonth  hall' east;  ami  ■•  .Mcares  Aich"  iVoin  liic  iioitli 
\\aitl.  Immit  rocks  are  laid  down  olV  the  southwest  lace  on  the  Coast  Sarxcv 
reconnaissance  of  isritt.  an<l  oiu'  on  tlie  north.  Three  lar.nc  rocks  and  one 
Kinall  one  are  lai<l  down  olV  the  sontliwesi  lace  in  the  oriuiinil  slieets  ol  the 
reconnaissaiM'c  of  IS.V!,  the  most  (jistant  beinu  one  niih- from  shore,  w  it  li  se\  era! 
small  ones  lielwccn  lin'm  ami  the  shore,  ami  two  oi'  three  others  off  the  northwest 
face. 

In  ITTo.  Ileceta  i>lacei|  i,a  Mesa,  the  Taldi'.  in  latitude  |,'i  '  L'S'—a  l!at  lopped 
liiuiintain,  seen  at  a  ^i-eal  distam'c. 

In  .lulv  I7SS,  .Meaies.  in  the  I'clice,  after  i>assiin:- Capi  i  Jcon  from  the  north- 
ward, savs:  ••The  distant  sontherlv  headland  wecallcii  (ape  i  .lokoul.  This  cape 
is  \crv  hi.uh  and  hliitV,  and  ternMiiates  alnupllv  in  the  sea.  Al  alioni  the  distance 
of  two  miles  from  it  llu-re  rose  three  lar;;f  rocks,  wh'-  aie  \  trv  reai.irkaltle  for 
the  f;reat  resem'tlance  they  Itear  each  olhci'.  The  middle  oi,'-  lias  an  archway, 
l»erlorated,  as  ii  were,  in  its  <'enlre,  tirouuh  wiiieh  we  ;<lainl>  di>covercd  the 
distiMi'^  si'a.  They  more  particulai'Iy  attractc(l  our  notice  as  wc  had  not  oliser\cd 
hetwcen  Kin.i;'  (icoryc's  sound  and  this  place  any  rocks  so  coii-picnoiisly  situated 
near  the  land;  their  <listam-e  from  each  other  nM.uhl  he  one  ipiarlcr  of  a  iiiilc  and 
we  {i'ave  them  the  iianu'  of  the  'Three  IWothers.'  Ily  eii;lit  in  the  e\cnin;;  we  wen; 
Avithin  three  or  four  lea.nues  of  Cape  Lookout,  which  we  Jinlm'd  to  lie  in  laiitude 
■lo3  ;{(1'  north,  loiijiitmU-  IL'.V^  od'  «'ast." 

In  IT!*!',  Vanc(»uver  described  it  as  a  small  i»rojectin,i;  point,  yet  icmarkalile 
for  the  four  rocks  whieli  lie  off  it,  one  of  which  is  perforated  as  described  by  Mcares. 
IK'  places  it  in  latitude  irp  .{L". 

This  cape  is  very  fre(pieidly,  but  crroiiootisly,  stated  to  be  the  ••Clarke's  Point 
of  View,"  as  described  by  Clarke  in  the  winter  of  ISd.Vd. — (See  remarks  upon  Tilla- 
mook ileatl.) 

In  tlio  Coast  Survey  reeoniiaissanee  of  IS,"),'!  the  iH)rthciii  part  of  this  cape  is 
placed  ill  latitiido  LP  30',  lon;;'itude  IL'.'P  08',  ami  slrctchiiij;'  southward  two  miles 
to  tbe  cluster  of  rocks  above  described. 

"We  applied  the  name  to  this  cape  in  IS.')?. 


TlLLAMOOIv    HAY, 


The  eiitraiu'eof  this  bay  is  about  four  miles  north  of  Cape  Mcares.  and  in 
latitude  trp  ,'it',  lon>;itu(h'  llI.P  ."iT',  both  approxinmte.  l''roni  <'ape  Mcares  the 
lami  falls  to  a  straijiht,  low,  narrow  lidp-  of  sami  dunes  niiinin.L;'  northwest  by  west, 
and  covered  with  spruce  lor  three  inilos;  then  with  j;rassaml  bushes  for  another  luilo 
to  the  entrance  to  Tillamook  Bay.  The  hillocks  of  this  peninsula  ai>pear  to  bo 
18» 


mm 


I 


i:lll 


138  COAST  PILOT  OF  OKKCJON. 

only  forty  or  fifty  feet  liijih.  T1h>  north  side  of  tlu'  (Mstrance  to  this  h;iy  rises 
Bliarpiy  to  woo(h>(l  hills,  twelvi^  hsindn'tl  Wot  hijjh.  .Inst  iiisidr  tho  cntninco,  and 
on  tlic  sonth  fact'  of  tlic  liills,  is  a  hriyht  ;;ivon  spnr  ih'stitnt*'  of  tinilu'r,  from  the 
lower  iiart  of  tho  hills  to  the  \vat«'r's  vil'^v.  This  spnr,  named  (Ireen  Hill,  is  a 
l)romint'nt  foatarein  r('co};iiizin};thi'  cnlrance  and  in  crossiii';' the  bar.  The  hij;hest 
part  of  this  hill  that  is  destitnto  of  trees  is  about  four  hundred  and  twenty-ouo 
feet. 

Ui)on  the  Coast  Survey  chart  there  is  laid  down  a  siuf^le  rock  four  miles  south- 
ward of  the  entrance,  and  threc-tpiarters  «)f  a  mile  oif  the  beach.  Alumt  one  and 
a  half  miles  north  of  the  bar,  by  estimation,  is  a  double-headed  rock,  connected  with 
the  beach  at  low  water,  with  no  rocky  ground  near.  TIh'so  rocks  are  pay,  al)ont 
civility  feet  high,  and  seen  projected  ajiainst  the  brigiit  sand  beach  from  which  the 
wood  coninienees  to  cover  the  hills.  The  southern  one  has  an  arch  through  it,  as 
seen  from  the  south. 

The  entrance  to  Tillamook  Hay  is  six  hundred  yards  wide,  but  the  channel 
between  the  twelse  feet  curves  is  only  one  hundred  and  thirty-live  yards  wide. 
The  narrowest  part,  with  a  depth  of  from  four  to  eij;ht  fathoms,  is  close  to  the 
foot  of  the  Green  Hill,  and  the  breakers  always  show  the  south  side  (tf  the  channel. 
Tlie  two  points  of  the  entrance  are  north  one-quarter  west  and  south  one-quarter 
east  of  each  other. 

The  bar  in  April  18(»7  lay  scmthwest  by  west  half  west  one  and  a  third  mile 
from  the  foot  of  (Ireen  Hill,  and  threi'-(]uartcrs  of  a  mile  southwest  by  south  half 
south  from  the  nearest  jtart  of  the  north  head.  Tlie  channel  was  narrow  but  quite 
straight,  and  a  depth  of  fifteen  feet  could  be  carried  across  the  bar  at  low  Avater. 
Outside  the  bar  the  depth  increased  rapidly  to  five  fathoms  in  an  eighth  of  a  mile, 
and  one  mile  outside  the  bar  the  depth  was  nineteen  fathoms.  The  directions  for 
ent«'ring  were  to  bring  the  highest  part  of  Green  Hill  to  bear  northeast  by  east, 
and  run  for  it  over  the  bar.  After  crossing  the  bar,  gradually  haul  fi)r  the 
hnver  part  of  the  hill.  When  its  extremity  bears  north  nt)rth west  stCv  >r 
the  eastern  slnu'c  of  the  south  point,  running  close  to  it  in  tweidy-six  feet  water, 
with  a  hard,  fine  sand  bar,  with  only  four  feet  upon  it  two  hiuidred  yards  from 
the  shore. 

The  geographical  position  of  the  Coast  Survey  station  at  the  base  of  Green 
Hill  was  determined  a|»i)roximately,  and  is  in — 

o  / 

Latitude l."*  32.8  north. 

Longitude iL'.'i  57.!)  west. 

h.    m.    s. 
Or,  in  tnne 8  IT)  r»2. 

The  computed  magnetic  variation  for  January  18ti8,  was  20°  -10'  east,  and  the 
increase  about  1'  yearly. 

The  United  States  Const  Survey  published  in  1807  a  chart  of  this  bay  and 
entrance. 


COAST  PILOT  OF  OREGON. 


130 


lis  l)iiy  ri,so3 
iitniiico,  aiul 
»or,  fntm  the 
Ml  Hill,  i.s  a 
Tlio  liioliost 

I  twouty-oiio 

miles  south- 

lont  one  and 

inecte«l  with 

fji'.iy,  about 

II  whieli  the 
rough  it,  as 

the  channel 
yards  wide, 
close  to  the 
the  channel, 
one-quarter 

a  third  mile 
y  south  half 
i\v  but  (juito 

low  water, 
h  of  a  mile, 
rections  for 
1st  by  east, 
lul  for  the 
t   stCv        >r 

feet  water, 
yards  from 

ie  of  Grecu 


i  north 

►  Avest. 

«. 

yj. 

^t,  and  the 

is  bay 

and 

TIDKS  AT   TILLA;>rOOK  BAY. 

Tlie  two  titles  of  the  same  day  are  jicnerally  une(iual  in  iirojtortion  to  the 
moon's  declination.  The  times  and  heij>hts  can  be  obtained  ai>i>roximateIy  from 
the  following  table: 


Mixim's  niipir  iiuridiaii  pn8s!i;;('. 

SIociii's  Iinvor  iiioiidlaii  pnasaijo. 

l^rodu'H  i1(M-Iin:itioli. 

lliflli  walcT. 

Luw  watcv. 

Hi-li  waliT. 

Low  nator. 

IiiUTvnl. 

noiKht. 

Iiitorval. 

ir.   J/. 

IS     1.-. 
IS    40 

17    TiS 

1 
Hiislit.      Iiitorval.      lloijilit. 

Iiitorval.    1  Ili'iyht. 

(■rcatosl  iiorlli 

/Olll    

11.    Jf. 

11    i:i 
i-j   :io 

Feet. 
7.3 
7.0 
(1.  2 

Feet. 

_0..i 

o.;i 

2.0 

I[.    M. 

12     II 

12   :!(i 

11     13 

Feet. 
t!.2 
7.0 
7.3 

//.    Jf.     j      Feet. 

17    ."iS       j              2. 0 
IS     40      ]              11.3 

I'j    II 

18     -l.'i       i           — 0.  ti 

The  interval  is  to  be  added  to  the  time  of  the  moon's  meridian  i)assajie  to  give 
the  time  of  high  or  low  water.  The  time  of  the  moon's  upper  meridian  ]»as.sa.ge  is 
given  in  the  Almanac,  and  the  time  of  its  lower  meridian  pa.ssage  is  the  middle 
lietween  two  succe.s.sive  upper  pas.sages.  The  heights  are  given  in  feet  and  teiitli.s, 
and  .show  the  rise  above  the  level  of  the  average  of  the  lowest  low  waters,  to  which 
level  the  soundings  on  the  chart  are  given. 

Spriiifi  fiih'.s, — At  the  full  and  change  of  the  moon  the  high  waters  will  be  ().,"» 
foot  higher  than  the  above,  and  the  low  waters  0.7  foot  lower. 

Xt'di)  fitJcs. — At  the  nuton's  lirst  and  last  (luarters  the  high  waters  will  be  ()..") 
foot  lower,  and  the  low  waters  will  not  fall  as  low  by  0.7  foot. 

Inside  the  entrance  of  Tillamook  IJay  its  general  direction  is  soutlwa.st  by 
south  half  .south  for  two  and  a  half  miles,  then  ea.st  live-eighths  .south  tor  two  and 
ii  cpiarter  miles.  It  rapidly  expands  as  it  stretches  .southwanl,  and  there  is  a 
small  .shallow  cove  lying  to  the  northward  and  eastward  of  the  parallel  of  (iieeii 
Hill.  The  bay  is  mostly  occupied  by  flats  that  are  bare  at  low  water.  The  ]>riiici- 
pal  channel  through  it  runs  from  the  inside  of  the  south  jioint  of  the  eiitraiico 
towards  the  .southeast  i)ait  of  the  bay  ;  and  after  reaching  the  middle  of  the  bay, 
just  south  of  Mematnet  head,  it  runs  parallel  with  the  eastern  shore,  at  an  average 
distance  of  half  ii  mile,  until  abreast  of  Shell  Point,  when  it  runs  southward  a 
short  distance  aiul  abruptly  turns  to  the  southeast,  running  clo.se  along  shore.  It 
is  .said  that  ve.ssi  Is  drawing  eight  or  ten  feet  of  water  can  go  up  the  slue  about  si.x 
miles  above  the  head  of  the  l>ay  at  high  water.  Up  to  ISOT  there  had  been  three 
ves.sels  built  hei'e,  the  largest  about  forty  tons  burden.  One  of  these  was 
engaged,  in  1807,  in  "'aking  occasionul  trips  to  Portland  for  tloiir  and  other  sup- 
plies. The  exports  consi.st  of  a  little  butter  and  some  few  hides.  The  whole 
imports  and  exports  do  not  exceed  lifty  tons  yearly.  There  is  a  considerable 
amount  <»f  timber,  consisting  of  siuuce,  flr,  hemlock  and  cedar,  adjacent  to  tlio 
bay,  but  as  yet  nothing  has  been  done  to  develoj)  its  value. 

Tebenkt)lf  has  a  deep  indentation  of  the  coast  in  the  jiosition  of  Tillamook 


140 


COAST  PILOT  OF  OREGON. 


■!  •; 


i  I 


IJiiy,  and  {;iv('s  the  rocks  to  tlio  soutlnvard  and  tlioso  to  the  iiortli.     Eini>tyiiis 
into  the  southern  part  of  this  bight  he  lias  tlie  river  Xikas. 

NKIIALEM   KIVKU. 

About  one  ami  a  liall"  niih's  nortli  of  Tillamook  P.ar  stand  the  double-headed 
rocks  described  above;  thence  the  (roast  runs  ten  or  eleven  miles  nearly  straijiht 
to  Cai)e  Falcon,  receivinji'  a  considerable  stream  called  the  Nehalem  ivivei'. 

The  oix'uin.u-  to  this  stream  is  in  latitude  t.")^  ll.j',  ai)i>roxiinately,  and  for 
tiiree  miles  from  its  mouth  it  lies  i»arallel  and  close  under  the  west  side  of  a  blulf 
covered  with  timber  and  running  lu'arly  north  and  south.  Anumd  the  northwest 
l)oint  of  the  bluff  the  sticam  conies  sharply  from  the  eastward  and  is  about  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  in  width  at  high  water,  with  eighteen  feet  depth  at  that  stage  of 
tide,  lietween  tlie  river  and  (he  sea  lies  a  long,  narrow  strip  of  sand  duiu's,  hav- 
ing a  breadth  of  four  hundr;Ml  yards  ami  a  general  elevation  of  tweuty  five  feet. 
At  the  southern  extremity  of  the  sand  <lunes  (he  point  runs  one  mile  further  at  low 
water.  Abreast  this  point  the  river  contracts  its  width  to  tw(»  hundred  yards  with 
very  little  <lepth  of  water,  while  upcm  the  bar  the  sea  breaks  almost  unceasingly. 
Inside  ami  abreast  the  southernmost  sand  duut  s  there  is  as  much  as  thirty  feet 
depth  of  water,  with  a  rocky  ledge  on  the  eastern  side. 

The  entrance  to  the  river  from  the  bar  to  the  northwest  point  of  the  blulf  was 
examined  by  the  Coast  Survey  iu  ISdS. 

Ill  July  18(>7,  when  passing  northward  close  along  the  coast  we  found  tin* 
Nehalem  entering  abreast  of  a  red  break  in  the  low  wooded  bluff  about  six  iirles 
iKH'tli  of  Tillamook  r>ar.  It  conies  from  the  northward  about  one  mile  close  under 
the  bluff,  with  a  low  narrow  sand-tongue  between  it  and  the  ocean.  The  inside 
bluff  retreats  eastward  and  thence  this  tongue  increases  in  height  northward  and 
becomes  covered  with  grass  and  tiees.  Inside  of  it  tin'  Nehalem  sju'cads  into  ii 
lagoon  four  miles  wide  with  a  length  of  eight  miles,  wlu'ie  it  decreases  in  width. 
The  general  direction  of  the  lagoon  is  north-mntheast.  The  hills  behind  the 
Nehalem  ajipcar  cut  by  many  valleys.  The  tongue  forming  the  oceau  boundary 
to  the  lagoon  runs  iKuth-northwest  to  a  donble-heaih'd  peak,  about  three  (piarters 
ol  a  mile  soutli  of  Cape  Falcon.  This  peak  (about  twelve  hundred  feet  high)  is 
grass-covered  to  the  summit,  with  a  few  burnt  tr«'es  in  the  gtuges.  It  is  known 
by  the  Indian  name  of  Ne-ah-kahnie.  At  the  base,  on  the  south  side  of  the 
mountains,  is  a  large  Inmse. 

Tebenkotf  has  a  stream,  designated  the  river  Nnhalem,  emiitying  in  latitude 
45<^  .54',  but  this  position  is  close  under  Tillamook  Head. 

Clarke,  Avlien  alxmt  five  miles  south  of  Tillamook  Head,  says  that  the  priiuii- 
jtai  town  of  the  Killamucks  is  sitUided  twenty  miles  lower  (south,)  at  the  entraneo 
to  a  creek  called  Nielee,  expanding  into  a  bay  Avliicli  he  named  Killamucks  Bay. 
Upon  (his  bay  were  several  ICillamuck  towns.  Killamuck  Hiver  is  at  the  head  of 
the  bay,  one  hundiiMl  yards  wide  and  very  rajiid ;  itiit  having  no  iierpendiciilar  fall, 
is  a  great  aveiiui'  for  trade.     Tlu-re  are  two  small  villages  of  KillamucKs  settled 


i 


Lj 


COAST  riLOT  OF  OREGON. 


141 


above  its  mniitli,  and  the  wliolo  tradiiis  portion  of  tlio  tribe  ascend  it  till  by  a 
slioit  ])ortii,n'e  tliey  earry  their  eanoes  to  the  Colnnibia  Valley,  and  descend  the 
]\[nltnoniah  to  Wai)i)atoo  Island.  This  infonnation  he  obtained  from  Indians  and 
tracU'rs.  On  this  short  exi)edition  he  made  ail  his  distances  froni  Cape  Disai)i)oint- 
ment  and  Point  Adams  too  j;reat,  and  redncinj;  the  fore-mentioned  twenty  miles 
by  the  |)i'op(  r  proi)ortion,  it  wtnild  ^ive  ns  thirteen  miles  as  altont  the  jmsition  of 
the  Nehalem.  His  name  seems  to  aj^ice  with  this,  but  the  descrix)tion  ai»i>lies  to 
what  is  ^'enerally  kn(»wn  as  Tillamook  J>ay. 

It  was  in  this  vicinity  that  Meares  stood  in  for  an  anclnn'aji'e,  (-Tuly  17SS,) 
until  lie  foinid  bott(mi  in  ten  fathoms,  but  hauled  out  again  and  named  the  i)lacc 
Quicksand  Day,  and  the  adjoinin.!;' headland  north  Cape  Cirenville. 


11 


CAl'K  FALCON,   Oil   FALSK   TILLA3IOOK. 

The  northern  part  of  this  headkind  lies  in  latitude  irp  17',  ]on},ntude  123'3  r»S'. 
Upon  ])assinK'  close  by  it  in  isr»7,  we  jud/j;ed  it  to  be  not  less  than  three  thousand 
feet  hiji'h,  with  the  sea  face  cominj;- ]>recipitonsIy  to  the  ocean,  and  off  it  lie  two 
]>rominent  rocky  islets.  As  seen  IVom  the  soutliward,  the  top  is  irn';;ular, 
Avhile  the  iiiils  inshore  fall  away.  Like  some  other  points  on  the  Oreg'ou  coast, 
the  southern  face  of  the  cape  is  destitute  of  ti'ces,  but  covered  with  a  tliick  j^rowth 
of  {^rass,  bushes,  and  fern.  Tw(»  miles  south  of  it  is  a  sti'ctch  of  sand  beach  amt 
sand  dunes,  behind  which  is  the  Xelndem  Kiver. 


A  few  miles  eastward  of  tlu'  cajte  is  a  very  broken  mountain. 


T 


the  Coast 


wenty(»ue  miles,  west  by  noitli  tliree-((uarters  iiorta,  lioni  the  cajte  the  » oii 
Survey  chart  knives  a  sounding'  of  eiiihty-five  fathoms  ovei'  nnuldy  bottom;  and 
another  of  one  liiuidred  and  thirty  fathoms,  same  bottom,  twenty-sev«'n  miles  west 
half  north  from  the  cape. 

From  Cape  Lookout  to  this  headlan<l  a  depth  of  twenty  fathoms  may  ;  -ner- 
ally  be  found  a  mile  from  sh(»re  ;  but,  as  ui)ou  the  whole  coast,  a  heavy  regular 
swell  always  ntds  in  fntm  the  west. 

In  177."),  Ileceta  [)laeed  a  headland  in  latitude  l.'P  t,"/,  to  which  he  gave  the 
ai)pellation  Cai)e  Falcon.  According  to  his  description  it  had  a  rocky  islet  lyinj^ 
oil"  it.  In  IH.kJ  Davids(m  applied  this  uanu'  to  the  cape  as  far  preferable  to  using 
the  term  "■  false"  to  capes,  bays,  &c.,  the  names  of  which  were  at  tirst  uncertain. 

In  178S,  ]\Ieares  called  this  Cape  (Jrenville. 

The  Indian  name  tor  the  double-peaked  mountain  about  thrce-fiuarters  of  a 
mile  sctuthward  of  it,  is  Neah-kah-nie. 


TILLAMOOK  KIUD. 

This  prominent  cape,  in  latitude  45'^  .>S',  is  twelve  miles  north-northwest  from 
Cape  Falcon,  and  nineteen  miles  southeast  by  south  half  south  from  Cape  Disaj)- 
pointmeiit.  The  coast  from  Cape  Falcon  curves  two  miles  eastward;  is  bold  and 
nigged,  guarded  by  many  high  rocky  islets  and  reefs,  ami  in  several  places  bor- 
dered by  a  low  .sand  beach  at  the  ba.se  of  the  clilVs.     Two  miles  .south  ol  the  liead. 


I 


142 


COAST  riLOT  OF  OEECJON. 


Ml 


fit 


Clarke  (ISO.VC)  locates  a  creek,  eij^lity  yards  wide  at  its  month,  wliicli  lie  calls 
Ecola  or  Wliale  Creek.  From  the  south  bar  of  the  ('olnmltia  IJiver  the  .snmiuit  of 
Tillamook  appears  Hat  for  some  distance  back,  and  has  an  estimatitl  hcijiht  of  tw> 
thonsand  five  hundred  leet.  Olf  the  face  of  the  ca[)e,  which  is  very  steep,  lie  sev- 
I'rai  rocky  islets,  Oue  of  them  is  hij^h  and  ru«i\!;ed,  and  stands  out  about  a  mile 
from  the  southwest  fa«'e.  Around  it  the  water  is  believed  to  be  deep,  as,  durinj;'  a 
thick  fo^'  in  IS.jo,  we  came  almost  upon  it  in  the  Coast  Survey  steamer;  but  inside 
of  it  lie  several  Iiij;h  rocks.  Froi;i  Columbia  liiver  Dar  two  rocks  can  be  distinctly 
seen  apparently  otf  this  head,  the  inner  beinj^  the  larger,  and  its  apparent  distance 
from  tile  head  about  half  the  ajipareiit  height  of  the  cajic.  Whether  the  smaller 
is  the  (MIC  otV  Cape  Falcon,  we  did  not  determine.  As  seen  from  the  southward 
the  large  rock  has  a  perpendicular  face  to  the  westward,  and  slopes  to  tiie  east.  It 
is  the  resort  of  tliDUsaiids  of  seals. 

From  Cape  Falcon  to  the  large,  rocky  islet  otf  Tillamook  Head,  the  line  ol 
soundings  incn  ases  regularly  from  sixteen  to  thirty  fathoms;  and  thence  to  the 
south  bar  of  Columbia  Hiver,  they  range  from  twenty  two  to  thirteen,  and  sud- 
denly shoal,  near  the  bar,  to  three  fathoms.  Eleven  miles  northwest  by  north  one- 
third  north  from  Tillamook  Head,  the  Coast  Survey  chart  has  a  sounding  in  sixty 
fatlioiiis  over  sandy  bottom;  and  seventeen  miles  southwest  one-tliird  west  from  the 
head  there  is  a  depth  of  eighty  fathoms,  over  muddy  bottom.  From  tiftcen  to 
eighteen  miles  west  by  south  from  Tillamook  Head,  La  Ferouse  got  soundings 
in  eighty  fathoms  over  muddy  bottom. 

This  cape  is  a  good  landmark  lor  making  the  month  of  the  Cohimbia  River, 
no  sii"li  high  headland  occurring  on  the  coast  northward  of  it  for  over  seventy 
miles;  and  before  being  up  with  it,  the  moderately  high  land  of  Cape  Disappoint- 
ment is  seen  and  made  as  two  islands. 

The  face  of  the  cape  is  much  broken,  and  formed  i)rincii»aliy  of  yellow  clay, 
pi-esenting  a  bright  appearance  in  the  sunlight.  Clarke  says  that  twelve  hundred 
I'cct  above  the  ocean  occurs  a  stratum  of  white  earth,  then  (lS(),")-'(>)  used  by  the 
Indians  as  i)aint;  and  that  the  hillsides  sli])  away  in  masses  of  fifty  to  one  hundred 
acres  at  a  time.  Fpon  the  top  of  the  cajie  he  found  good,  sound,  solid  trees  grow- 
ing to  a  height  of  two  hundred  and  ten  feet,  with  diameters  of  from  eight  to  twelve 
feet.  From  Tillamook  Head  southward  many  miles  was  the  country  of  the  Killa- 
muck  Indians,  then  estimated  to  number  a  thousand  people,  anil  having  fifty 
luHises. 

In  latitude  45°  55'  La  Perouse  speaks  of  a  cape  formed  by  a  rotuid-topiied 
mountain,  as  the  Cai)e  Kedondo  of  the  Spaniards.  It  bore  east  5°  south,  triu',  from 
his  position.  The  Coast  Survey  chart  has  a  mountain  eight  miles  cast-iKutheast 
from  the  head. 

De  Mofras  calls  it  the  Cap  X.  S.  de  la  Lux. 

This  is  the  head  which  is  projierly  called  "Clarke's  Point  of  View." 

Some  r<'ceiit  ni.ips  erroneously  call  (his  Cape  Lookout. 

The  coiisl  from  Point  Orford  to  Tillamook  Head  is  AVi'll  diversilied  bv  high 


liicli  ]io  calls 
1h'  .siuniiiit  of 
"'ifilit  (.f  t\v  1 
't»'<'i>,  lii'  si'v- 
i')')iit  ii  i:ii|(. 
ns,  (luring-  a 
';  l>ur  iii.side 
bo  (listiiu'tly 
out  distance 
tlie  smaller 
•southward 
iieoast.    It 


:'J^>?h^ 


'^^if'y 


'■J/!- 


the  lino  ot 
once  to  the 
>>  and  snd- 

iiorth  one- 
11^'  in  sixty 
St  from  the 

fiftoon  to 
soundings 

bin  J?ivor, 
'1'  so\-cii ty 
isappoint- 

llow  clay, 
hundred 
'd  hy  the 
hundred 
i>i's  !j;i'o\y. 
fo  twelve 
lio  Killa- 
i"«-  iifty 


!a 


il-toi)i)ed 
■110,  from 
oithoust 


L)y  Iiigh 


i 


COAST  riLOT  OF  OIUXJON.  143 

liills  and  valloys,  proscnting'  a  pouiitiy  well  watered  by  luiineroiis  small  streams 
emptying  into  tlie  oeean.  It  is  densi-ly  covered  with  vaii(»us  woods,  and  lor  a  IVw 
miles  inland,  looks  favitrably  from  the  deek  of  a  vessel.  Son)e  distance  in  the  inte- 
rior, ranges  of  mountains  ocM'ur,  the  jieneral  direction  of  which  appears  to  i)e  par- 
allel with  the  coast-line,  which  attained  its  fireatest  elevation  and  compaetness 
between  Cape  Falcon  and  Tillamook  Head;  after  >vhich  a  sudden  and  marked 
chango  takes  i»lace,  and  a  stretch  of  low  sandy  coast  commences,  and  runs  for 
nearly  one  hundred  miles  northward,  only  broken  by  Cape  I)isa]ipointment.  The 
hiyh  uiouutains  of  the  interior  are,  however,  seen  over  this  low  shore. 

COLOnUA  KIVEK. 

POINT  ada:ms. 

Two  iniles  northward  of  Tillamook  Head  commences  a  peculiar  line  of  low 
sandy  ridjies,  ruuninj;- parallel  to  the  beach  towards  I'oint  Adams,  and  appearinj; 
like  liuj;e  sand  waves  covered  with  f;rass  and  fern.  ]>etweeu  some  of  them  run 
small  cieeks,  while  the  country  behind  is  low,  swamjsy,  and  covered  with  Avood  and 
an  almost  impenetral)lo  nnderj;rowth.  About  three  miles  north  of  the  head,  Clarke 
says,  a  beautiiul  stream  empties,  with  a  strong  rapid  cm-rent.  It  is  eighty-fivo 
yards  wide,  and  has  three  feet  at  its  shallowest  crossing. 

Point  Adams  is  low  and  sandy,  covered  with  busb.es  and  trees  to  the  line  of 
sand  b(>ach  and  Ioav  dunes;  and  although  it  is  repented  to  have  washed  awaj-  over 
half  a  mile  since  1811,  mo  find  comparatively  small  changes  since  the  survey  of 
Broughton  in  1702. 

The  geographical  position  of  the  flag-statt"  of  Fort  Stevens  is: 

Latitude 10  12  21.0  north. 

Jjongitude 12.'}  50  17.8  west. 

/(.    m.      K. 

Or,  in  time 8  15  47.2 

This  [>osition  is  on  the  northeast  part  of  the  point,  about  half  a  mile  from  tho 
ocean  beach. 

Fort  Stevens  is  built  on  Point  Adams. 

No  light-house  exists  here,  but  the  necessity  for  one  has  been  so  repeatedly 
urged,  that  we  cannot  refrain  from  calling  attention  to  a  few  facts  bearing  upon 
the  ((uestion.  Oft"  this  i)oint,  southwest  by  south  three  and  a  rpiarter  miles,  lies 
(1852)  the  bar  of  the  south  channel,  through  which  the  for  greater  portion  of  tho 
trade  has  passed;  and  all  vessels  use  this  point  as  a  standard  point  for  their  ranges. 
During  the  early  i)art  of  the  evening,  dense  fogs  formed  over  the  waters  of  Gray's 
and  Shoalwater  Hays  are  brought  southward  by  the  summer  Avinds,  aiul  roll  over 
Disappointment,  Avhich  they  completely  shut  in  before  reaching  across  the  river, 
so  that  a  vessel  nught  make  a  light  on  Ponit  Adams  Avhen  the  other  cape  was  invisi- 
ble; but  if  both  lights  Avere  Aisible  a  vessel  could  hold  any  recpiired  position  at 


144 


COAST  PILOT  OF  OKIXJON. 


!  f 


iiijjlit  iioar  oitlior  bar,  uiul  run  in  and  take  a  pilot  ui)on  tlic  first  opportnnity;  for 
it  \V(»nl(l  1)0  assnniinj;'  too  ;,'r('at  a  risk  to  enter  the  river  at  nijjlit,  or  without  a 
pilot. 

Tlii.s  ])oint  was  ealled  Capo  Froadoso  l»,v  lleceta,  who  diseovorod  hut  did  not 
enter  this  rlvor  in  Auj^iist  1775;  and  jianied  Adams's  Point  by  Captain  (iray,  in 
17U2.     The  Indian  name  of  the  i)oint  is  Klaatsop.     It  is  now  called  Point  Adams. 

The  beaeh  around  Point  Adams  and  to  the  southward  sonu'  distauee  is  usually 
called  Clatsojt  Peach.  Cpon  it,  many  y<'ars  i\}io,  before  the  white's  occupied  the 
country,  a  Chinese  or  Jajtaiu'se  Junk,  with  many  hands  and  a  carj;'o  of  beeswax, 
was  cast  ashore  and  went  to  jtieces;  but  the  crew  won;  saved.  In  support  of  this 
Indian  tradition,  there  are  occasionally,  after  {,'reat  storms,  jtieces  of  this  wax 
thrown  ashore,  coated  Avith  sand  aiul  bleached  nearly  white.  Formerly  a  t;reat  deal 
Avas  found,  but  now  it  is  rarely  nu't  with.  Ileleher  mentions  having'  a  sitecimeii. 
]\lany  iteoi>le  on  the  Coliunbia  p«»ssess  them,  and  we  have  seen  several  [iie«*es.  In 
a  late  work*  this  wreck  has  been  confounded  m  itli  another  that  took  place  lu'ar 
Cape  Flattery. 


COAST    AND    SHORES   OF    WASHINGTON    TERRITOTIY    AND 
OPPOSITE   SHORE  OF  VANCOUVER  ISLAND. 

CAPE  DIS/VrOlNTJIENT. 

Tho  north  side  of  the  Coliuiibiii  IJiver  l\)riiis  ])art  of  WiisIiiii;.;toii  Territory. 
It  Mils  tiic  soiitlicni  boniidiiry  of  Vancouver's  "Xew  (Jeorj;ia,"  171L'. 

Tiiis  ('a[)e  is  tlie  only  lieadland  tiiat  breaks  the  htw  line  of  shore  froiu  Tilla- 
niooiv  to  latitude  47^  20'.  It  ju'esents  a  <;'eoloj;ieal  formation  not  before  uwt  with 
on  the  seaboard,  beinj;'  composed  of  horizontal  columnar  l>asalt  risinj;'  to  an  cleva- 
tictn  of  two  hundred  and  eiffhty-seven  feet,  disposed  in  a  succession  of  huf;e  round 
hills,  Inoken  on  the  sea  front  by  short  strips  of  sand  beach,  aiul  covering' an  irregii- 
hir  area  of  about  three  miles  by  one.  The  sea  faces  of  all  the  hills  and  irrej'ularly 
pr()jectinj;'  knobs  rise  i>erpendicularly  formally  feet,  and  then  slope  sliyhtiy  inshore 
to  narrow  ridj^es.  They  are  destitute  of  trees,  but  are  covered  with  p'ass,  fern, 
and  bushes.  The  soil  is  thin  but  excellent.  Inshore  of  these  crests  tho  trees 
commence;  and  their  to^is  reaching  above  the  summits  of  the  hills,  increase  their 
apjiarent  height.  The  inshore  slope  of  the  hills  is  more  gentle,  so  that  paths  can 
be  easily  carried  to  their  tojis.  In  IS."*!  au  ox-team  road  was  opened  by  the  Coast 
Hurvcy  to  the  summit  of  th(!cai»e.  When  the  evening  fogs  from  the  iioithcrn  bays 
do  not  cover  the  cape,  a  dense  fog  sometimes  rolls  down  the  river  about  sunrise, 
enveloj)ing  everything  below  the  toj)  of  the  cape,  so  that  the  summit  appears  like 
an  islet  in  a  sea  of  mist.  The  evening  fogs  have  often  been  known  to  last  for  live 
weeks,  without  a  single  clear  night. 

From  the  southward,  off  Tillamook  Ilead,  Cape  Disappointment  is  made  as 
two  round-topp*  d  islands.  x\piu'oached  from  the  northwest,  it  rises  in  a  similar 
manner.  From  the  west  and  southwest  it  appears  luojected  upon  the  mountains 
inshore  of  it;  but  the  slightest  haze  in  the  atmosphere  brings  it  out  in  sharp  relief. 
The  isolated  position  of  this  headland,  and  the  seaward  face  of  its  bold,  treeless 
clilfs,  form  a  pecidiar  feature  of  a  long  stretch  of  coast.  As  it  is  l»asaltic,  and  pre- 
sents an  almost  iron  front  to  river  and  sea,  it  is  iinpossilile  that  *'in  the  memory  of 
many.  Cape  Disappointment  has  been  worn  away  some  hundred  feet  by  the  sea 
and  strong  currents  that  run  by  it."* 

On  the  beach  inside  of  the  cape  is  a  deposit  of  auriferous  and  ferruginous  "black 
sand,"  the  flakes  of  gold  being  small  and  very  scarce.  This  black  sand,  by  tho 
iron  contained  in  it,  causes  a  local  disturbance  iu  tho  magnetic  variation  amount- 
ing to  2()'.2;  the  variation  being  less  by  that  amount  than  the  decliuatiou  found 
on  the  summit  of  the  cape. 


i-m 


10» 


'  United  StatoH  exploring  expedition,  1S41. 


146 


COAHT  PILOT  OF  WAbilLKGTOX  TERKITOKY. 


(!APE  DISAPl'OINTMKNT   I-UillTIIOrSE. 

Tho  liKlit-houso  is  not  upon  tlio  top  of  the  cape,  but  upon  a  spur  a  little 
to  tho  west  of  the  soutlicast  point,  and  ahout  ninety  live  feet  bdow  the  hi},'ht'st 
]>ait.  Tho  tower  's  wliilcwashcd,  and  beinff  forty  fet?t  in  hoij^Iit,  and  projected 
ajjainst  a  dariv  }j;reen  back^^round,  shows  well  in  daylijjht.  The  focal  plane  of  tho 
lens  is  one  hundred  and  ninety-two  feet  above  the  mean  level  of  the  sea. 

The  lij;lit  is  a  Ji.ir<l  irliitr  I'ujht,  of  the  lirst  order  of  Fresnel  ;  was  first  er  lib- 
ited  October  lo,  lM,")(i,  and  shows  fioni  sunset  to  sunrise.  Under  a  favorable  state 
of  the  atmosphere  it  should  be  seen  from  a  height  of — 

10  feet  at  a  distance  of  21    miles. 

L'O  feet  at  a  distance  of  2L'.i  miles. 

30  feet  at  a  distatu'c  of  2.'{:f  miles. 

00  feet  at  a  distance  of  -Ct\  miles. 

Its  geographical  position,  as  determined  by  the  Coast  Survey,  is — 

Latitiule 40  10  32.7  north. 

Longitude 12 1  02  13    west. 

h.    m.     n. 

Or,  in  time 8  10  08.9 

Magnetic  variation,  20°  1.7  east,  in  July  18.")l,  with  a  yearly  increase  of  1'. 

Counting  rouml  seaward  from  the  south,  it  commands  the  horizon  for  about 
135  degrees;  that  is,  from  scmth-southeast  to  northwest  one-(pun'ter  west,  so  that 
vessels  coming  fro  n  the  northward  cannot  sec  the  light  until  nearly  in  the  lati- 
tude of  the  river.  In  July  1807,  determined  from  sea  the  bearing  of  the  light 
at  night,  when  it  was  shut  in  by  the  higher  part  of  the  cape,  to  be  scmtheast 
quarter  east.  Placed  on  the  top  of  the  cape,  it  could  have  been  easily  made  to 
show  over  the  northwest  part  of  it,  and  Avould  also  have  commanded  the  entire 
river  and  Baker's  Bay. 

From  Cape  l)isapi»ointment  we  have  the  following  bearings  and  distances  of 
objects  to  the  northward  : 

Point  Grenville,  northwest  by  north  half  north,  02  miles. 

Destruction  Island,  northwest  by  north,  84  miles. 

Flattery  Itocks,  northwest  five-sixths  north,  118  miles. 

The  last  line  passes  tangent  to  the  coast  iu  latitude  47°  58',  where  there  are 
two  well-marked  rocks,  which  will  be  hereafter  described. 

FOG-BELL  AT  CAPE  DISAPPOINTMENT. 

A  fog-bell  of  sixteen  hundred  pounds  has  been  placed  on  the  bluff"  in  advance 
of  the  light-tower,  and  is  sounded  during  foggy  or  other  thick  weather,  night  and 
day.  The  ma(;hinery  is  on  a  level  with  the  ground,  in  a  frame  building,  white- 
washed, and  with  the  front  open  to  receive  the  bell,  which  strikes  nine  consecu- 
tive blows  each  minute. 


1 

i 


pnr  ji  little 
tlic  highest 
1  l>r«»JH'tt'(l 
lane  of  tbo 

first  ex  ilb- 
•lable  state 


.7  north. 
Avest. 

9 

3  of  1'. 

for  about 
t,  so  that 

the  lati- 

tlio  ]i/.lit 
sontht'ii.st 

made  to 
the  outirc 

itaneos  of 


tbt're  are 


advance 
iyl't  and 
?,  wliitc- 
uonsecu- 


I  f 


ii 


COAST  PILOT  OF  \VASIllN(iTON  TIMilJlTOUY.  147 

Till'  i)riiiiiuy  asfrdiioiniciil  stiitioii  of  the  Coiist  Survey  is  on  tli»>  liij^lii'st  piirt  of 
tlio  south*  Til  «'Xtr«'iMitj  of  llie  caix'.     Its  {j;('o;;Tiii»lii<'al  position  is— 

Latitude Ifi  Ifi  ?,r^:l  noitli. 

Lon;;itU(h' 'I't  oi]  (lO.Swcst. 

/i.    m,     «. 

Or,  in  tiino S  1(»  OS.L 

From  Capo  Orford  to  Cap*;  Disappointment  tlio.  extent  of  oeeaii  shoreline  is 
not  less  than  two  hundred  and  ei;;hty-tive  miles. 

In  Au^^ust  177r»,  this  cape  was  placed  l>y  lleecta  in  Iatitu<le  ItP  17',  and  calhMl 
Cape  San  Itoipw. 

In  .Inly  I7SS,  it  was  called  Cape  Disaitpointment  l»y  Meares,  and  jilaeed  in 
latitude  ItP  10'  "by  an  inditfcreiit  observation."  It  was  called  Cape  Hancock  by 
Cray,  in  17!tl.*,  and  the  entrance  placed  in  latitmle  KP  17'.  lie,  however,  chan^'ed 
this  name  to  Disappointment  ui»on  hearin^jf  that  ^fcares  had  so  named  it. 

In  17!)-  it  was  placed  in  latitude?  KP  V.V  by  Vancouver. 

On  the  Pacific;  coast  it  is  and  1ms  been  known  by  net  other  name  than  Cape 
Disappointment. 

The  Indian  name  for  the  cape  is  KiUi-eese. 

TIIK  BARS   AM)  ]:XTUAX(!i;   TO   THE  COLr:MI>IA   RlVin}. 

Tlio  e'  trance  to  Columbia  Piver  is  live  miles  wide  bctwt'cn  the.  nearest  parts 
of  Cape  Disappointment  and  Point  Adams,  bearinfi' Uiuth  west  by  west  one-(piarter 
west,  and  southeast  by  east  oiu'  (piartcr  east  of  each  other.  Put  the  passa^i'c  is 
greatly  obstructed  by  siiiftin;;'  shoals,  which  lie  two  itr  three  miles  outside  of  the 
line  Joining' the  two  points.  The  numerous  surveys  that  have  been  made  of  this 
river  at  different  times  prove  so  conclusively  the  ^reat  changes  constantly  K«'i"rt 
on  in  the  channels  throufi'li  the  shoals,  that  no  sailin.n'  directions  that  may  be  pre- 
pared can  be  relied  upon  for  any  great  length  of  time.  The  best  advice  that  cau 
be  given  mariners  is,  kIxcm  iq)  with  the  hnr  wait  for  a  pilot. 

Up  to  October  isr>7,  the  mail  and  coast  steamers  ontei'od  by  the  south  chan- 
nel, i)arallel  with  and  close  to  the  beach  south  of  Point  Adams.  Put  in  that  month 
this  channel,  which  had  been  gradually  narrowing  as  it  ai»proache(l  Point  Achims, 
suddenly  closed,  and  rcnained  closed  until  180S,  obliging  vcsmIs  to  use  the  north 
channel.  But  in  the  ea'ly  part  of  ISOS  it  again  opened,  and  had  then  more  water 
upon  the  bar  than  the  north  channel,  which  in  former  times  had  the  best  depth. 
The  north  channel,  although  it  gives  a  detour  of  some  miles,  has  a  straight  chau- 
iiel  over  the  bar,  and  from  the  iinwearing  nature  of  the  cape  does  not  change  its 
position  so  mnch.  Sailing  vessels  cannot  beat  into  the  south  channel  against  the 
summer  winds  blowing  from  the  !)rthwest;  so  they  arc  obliged  to  use  the  north 
channel.  Put  they  almost  inva''  ibly  come  out  through  the  former ;  as  with  the 
prevailing  wind  they  can  easily  fetch  out  by  the  point  of  Clatsop  Spit,  and  then 
have  a  fair  wind  over  the  bar. 

Diuing  heavy  weather,  and  especially  in  winter,  the  sea  breaks  with  ter- 


! 


r 


148 


COAST  riLOI  or  WASIIIXGTOS  TElililTOKV. 


111 


%  \ 


rific  fury  from  novtliwest  of  Ca])e  Disnppointiiiont,  well  to  tlio  soutlnviird  of  Point 
Atliims.  Tho  iiiiiil  .stcaincrs  have  soiiu'timcs  to  wait  days  for  the  siiiallcst  show  of 
an  oiK'nin<>-  to  j;('t  in  ;  and  saiiinj;-  vessels  liavc  laid  otV  the  entrance  six  weeks, 
Avaitinj;'  for  a  iair  opportunity  to  enter.  ^Fany  lie  inside  for  weeks  id. able  to  y'et 
out.  The  mail  steamers,  hy  exertiiijn'  all  their  power,  sometimes  drive  tiirouj;h  the 
t'ombers,  but  have  tlieir  decks  sweiit  fore  and  aft  by  evoy  sea.  Few  i)]aces  jne- 
sent  a  scene  of  more  wiidness  than  tliis  l»ar  during'  a  soutlu'ast  sale,  contrasting" 
stron.nly  with  many  times  dnrinn'  tiie  sunnuer,  when  not  a  breaker  is  to  be  seen  on 
tlio  shoalest  sjiots.  NVIiat  is  most  neciled  here  is  .i  powerful  propeller  tug',  which 
the  amount  of  trade  W(uild  assuredly  warrant,  whei;  we  know  that  the  much 
smaller  trade  of  Humboldt  r>ay  sui)poits  handsomely  a  tug  for  that  bar.  In  bad 
"weather  the  iiilot-lioats  cannot  venture  out,  but  a  steamer  might.  The  mail 
steamers,  to  avoid  delay,  carry  a  bar  pilot  with  them. 

On  the  authority  of  the  pilots,  it  is  said  that  about  June,  during  the  season  of 
freshets,  fresh  water  can  be  taken  up  lor  the  use  of  vessels  on  the  bar. 

"NVhen  otV  the  entrance,  in  fine,  clear  weather,  the  beautiful  suovi;  ])eak  of 
]\Iount  St.  lleh'us  shows  over  the  lowest  ])art  of  the  land  inside,  apparently 
in  the  middle  of  the  river  valley.  (See  view.)  It  is  very  regular  in  (mtliue, 
and  jtresents  a  pyramidal  appearance,  l,;iving  a  base  e(|ual  to  either  side.  It  is 
over  seventy-five  miles  to  the  eastward  of  the  entrance  to  the  river,  and  its  height 
is  estimated  ;it  thirteen  thousau<l  live  hundred  feet.  It  is  volcanic,  and  occasionally 
discharges  volumes  of  smoke. 

The  ciinriit. — Otf  Sandy  Island,  in  the  south  channel,  the  strength  of  the  ebb 
current  was  measured  in  1S,>!,  ami  found  to  be  nearly  five  and  a  half  miles  per 
lumr. 

The  observations  made  by  the  Coast  Survey  in  ISOS,  howovor,  show  ii 
maxinuim  velocity  of  only  .">.l  miles  in  the  same  position.  These  observations 
Avore  carefully  made,  and  show  the  direction  and  velocity  of  the  current  during 
each  (]uarter  of  the  eltb  and  llood,  from  the  bar  to  Astoria. 

These  observations  show,  tirst,  t'lJit  there  is  no  slack-water  at  the  change  (tf 
tides  from  llood  to  ebb;  secondly,  fhat  (»tf  the  entrance  to  the  north  channel  tho 
maximum  velocity  of  the  llood  is  two  miles  per  hour,  and  the  set  cast-southeast; 
the  maximum  velocity  of  the  el»b  is  2.;{  miles,  and  the  set  southwest  by  south  half 
south,  almost  exactly  in  the  direction  of  the  axis  of  tlu'  channel.  In  the  north 
chamu'l,  between  the  middh  sands  and  the  southwest  ])oint  of  the  north  breakers, 
the  velocity  of  thetiood  Avas  2.."»  miles,  and  its  set  east  by  south,  or  nearly  across 
the  channel.  The  velocity  of  the  ebb  was  L'.T  miles,  ami  its  set  s(Uithw«'st  half 
■west,  directly  down  the  channel.  Olf  Cape  I)isap}»ointmeiit,  between  it  and  Sul- 
phur Spit,  (where  Belcher  grounded,)  the  nnder-current  of  the  Hood  set  mntli  by 
cast;  and  the  surface  ebb  set  southwest  half  south,  with  a  velocity  of  .'{.1  milvs. 

nu'ut  light  house 


Al 


•P 


MM' 


bearing  west  southwest,  the  velocity  .1'  the  ebb  increases  to  4.1   miles   p,'r  hour, 
wetting  west  by  south,  exactly  toward  Capo  Disappointment.     There  is  here  very 


^\  -#3^ 


COAST  riLOl  or  Washington  tekritoky. 


149 


litti'>  flood-currout.  At  the  Juiictiou  of  the  north  nii<l  south  clmniiols,  oiio  inilo 
('list  ol'Siiiid  Isliuid,  tlio  flood  Wiis  east  by  south  half  south  one  aud  a  half  niih-s  per 
hour;  and  the  cbl),  west  half  north,  four  miles  jter  hour. 

Otf  the  south  ehaniu'I  entranee,  oiu' and  a  lialf  nules  southeast  of  the  south 
end  of  the  middle  sands,  the  ehb  attains  a  velocity  of  two  miles  ])er  lu)ur,  with  a 
set  at  its  maximum,  south  half  west.  Tlu^  tlood  sets  east -southeast,  when  it 
attains  its  greatest  veloeity,  which  is  1.3  miles.  Olfthe  northwest  end  of  Clatsop 
Spit,  flood,  at  its  maximum,  sets  t-ast  by  north  half  north,  at  the  rate  of  l.i  miles; 
and  the  ebb,  southwest  half  west,  three  miles  per  liour.  In  mid-chainiel,  southeast 
of  the  eastern  end  of  Sand  Island,  the  ebb  attains  a  velocity  of  3.1  miles,  aiul  sets 
west  by  south  ;  while  the  ilood  at  its  maxinui'  i  sets  east  half  north,  with  a  velocity 
of  l.!t  miles.  This  is  very  nearly  the  same  position  where,  in  18.j1,  the  velocity 
was  found  to  be  nearly  live  and  a  half  miles, 

The  followin.n-  table  will  show  the  set  i.nd  velocity  of  the  ebb  and  flood  durin,i>- 
each  quarter,  between  the  bar  and  Astoria.  It  will  be  Ibund  of  great  use  to 
mariner:;. 

Current  Stations  in  Columbia  Rircr. 


\ll 

Ht  lit  ion. 

1st  quarto 

". 

^[a\iiiiuni. 

3il  iiuartor. 

Eloiiil 

Sot. 

Drilt. 

Sot. 

Drift. 

Sot. 

Drift. 

or 
Ebb. 

1 

Oil"  III  nth  iliamu'I  riitranco... 

K.  liy  S.  i  S. 

0.7 

K.  hy  S,  .1  S. 

I  2 

SE.  hy  E. 

1.1 

I'loml. 

S.  J  !•;. 

1,1 

SW.  hy.S.  J  S. 

'J. ,-) 

SW.  i  W. 

1.1) 

Ehb. 

o 

Simlli  iIiiiiiihI  iiiti-iiiu'i' 

K.  .J  S. 

0.  K 

lO.SlO. 

l.H 

SE.  ,|  E. 

1.1 

EIiioil. 

SK.   hyS. 

l.."! 

S.  J  W. 

l.!l 

S.SW. 

1.2 

Ehb. 

y 

Oil'  Clatsn])  spit 

Si;,  hv  K.  J  E. 

0.7 

E.  hy  X'.  J  X. 

1.4 

E.XE. 

1.0 

FloiHl. 

S.  h  w. 

i.a 

SW.  J  W. 

;i.» 

SW.  J  s. 

1.0 

Ebb. 

4 

Xorlli    rliiiiiiu-l.    lii'twcin    X 

nth  ( 

N.Ni;. 

1.7 

E.  hy  S. 

a. :, 

SE.  J  E. 

l.li 

Eliioil. 

Jircakcrs  aiiv   Miilillc  Soiiit 

Is..  ( 

S.SW. 

1.  5  1  «W.  ?,  W. 

a.  7 

W.  hy  S.  J  S. 

1.4 

Ehb. 

T) 

liitwrcii   Saiiil    Islaiiil   anil  1' 

.iiit  ( 

K. 

1.1 

K.  4  X. 

l.O 

SE.  hy  S.  J  S. 

O.rt 

"  "lootl. 

.Vilains 

SW.  hv  S. 

i.;t 

W.  hy  S. 

;i.j 

SW.  hy  W. 

1.,-) 

Ehb. 

a 

Kast    siili-    111'     Capo    Disappi 
imnl 

iiit-  ^ 

X.  hy  E. 
I'liiloroiiiTont. 
SW.  i  S. 

Fliioil. 

s.  4  w. 

1.1 

.-t.  1 

SW.  hv  S. 

1.2 

Ehb. 

T 

lift wi' 0  1   Saiiil    Islanil   anil  (" 

apr  ( 

SE.  hy  E. 

0.4 

E. 

Ell  11  111. 

1  niloroiinont. 
SW.  J  W. 

1.,-. 

W.  hy  S. 

4.4 

1  iiiloroiirront. 
\y.  hy  S.  ,J  S. 

....( 

l.li 

Ebb. 

e 

Xiirtli  nf  Saiiil  Islanil 

■•••  j 

K.si:. 

n.ii 

E.SE. 

1.  u 

XK. 

0.  ci 

Elooil. 

w. 

1.1 

W.XW. 

•J.  7 

XW.   hy  W. 

i.:t 

Ehb. 

11 

lii'twi'ii  ScailinM)' llill  ami  > 

aiii'.  ^ 

NIC.  h,v  !■:.  iE. 

n.  li 

E.  hy  S.  1  S. 

I..-1 

SE.  hy  S. 

1.1 

J'liiiiil. 

Islaiiil 

w. 

1..-1 

W.  .J  X. 

■1.0 

W.  hy  X. 

2.:i 

Ebb. 

10 

Otl'Siiiliiini'  Hill 

i:.ii,v  X. 

I.'-' 

E.  h.\  X. 

1. 1' 

K.  hv  S. 

1.0 

EInii !. 

\v. 

1.7 

W.  hy  S. 

4.0 

W.  SW. 

2. .') 

Ebb. 

II 

Oil'  I'l.ii  Sli'vi'iis 

■l 

E.SK. 
W.  J  s. 

n.(i 

1.2 

E.SE. 
W.  hy  X. 

1.4 

:i.-j 

Si:,  hy  E. 

w. 

i.:i 

1.5 

Elond. 
Ebb. 

1-j 

Oir  Taiisi'v  Tuint 

K.  hv  S. 
.V\V.  hv  W. 

0.  .'^ 
1.0 

E.  by  S.  5  S. 
W.XW. 

L.-i 

:i.o 

SE.  hy  E. 
W.  hv  X. 

0.9 
2.0 

Fliioil. 
Ebb. 

i:i 

Oil'  SlvippiTiniiiif;  Crvrk 

!•:.  hy  X. 

w.  4  s. 

1.5 
1.7 

E.XE. 
W.  hy  S. 

2.0 

;i.o 

E.XE. 

W.  hy  S. 

0.7 

l.fi 

Eliiml. 
Ebb. 

14 

Oil"  Siuitirs  Point 

K.  hy  X. 

W.  hy  S.  4  S. 

0.  JJ 
l.li 

E.  hy  X. 
W.SW. 

1.7 
3.7 

E. 

SW.  hy  W. 

0.!) 
1.5 

EllNllI. 

ICbb. 



- -     — 

-— 

— 

.     _  . _._ 



.ftl 


The  pi».sitit(ns  of  the  above  stations  are  iiiiirKed  iiiioii  the  Coast  Survey  chart 


U'  river. 


150 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY. 


Tlio  n'oiiornl  (l('S('rii)tion  of  the  cliaimels  in  18G8  is  fouud  on  pages  155  to  100, 
but  tlio  folknviiig  disposition  of  tlio  buoys  for  cuterins'  tlie  soutli  channel  is  given, 
beeaus(!  in  18(i',>  no  material  change  was  reported  except  in  one  case,  where  the  buoy 
will  be  replaced  before  this  is  published. 

BUOYS  FOR  ENTERING  COLUIVIBIA  RIVER  BY  THE  SOUTH  CHANNEL. 

No.  1. — Outer  buoy,  nuininioth,  first  class,  l)lack  and  Avhite  vertical  stripes,  in 
tM'elve  fathoms  of  water.  Cape  Disappointment  light-house  bears  north  by  west 
half  west.  Point  Adams  bears  northeast,  distant  four  miles.  Red  buoy  bears  north, 
distant  two  and  one-fourth  miles. 

No.  2. — ^Mammoth  buoy,  first  class,  red,  off  Clatsoff  Spit,  in  five  and  one  half 
fathoms  water.  Cape  Disaiipointment  light-house  bears  north-northwest  three- 
()iiartcis  west;  Point  Adams  bears  east  one-quarter  north,  distant  three  miles; 
west  end  of  Sand  Island  bears  north  by  east,  distant  one  and  three-fourths 
miles. 

No.  3. — Inside,  iron  buoy,  black,  marking  the  Avestern  extremity  of  middle 
ground  in  three  fathoms  of  water.  Lighthouse  bears  west  by  north  half  north. 
Point  Adams  bears  southwest  half  south,  distance  one  mile.  Sand  Island  bears 
west-northwest,  distance  three  miles. 

No.  4. — Iron  buoy,  black,  marking  north  side  of  Tansey  Point,  in  fifteen  feet  of 
water.  Last  buoy  bears  west  by  north  half  north,  one  and  three-fourths  miles; 
Seai-borough  Ilill,  north-northwest,  three-fourths  mile;  Tansey  I'oint,  south  by 
west,  three-fourths  mile. 

No.  5. — Iron  buoy,  black,  marking  north  side  of  channel,  off  Smith's  Point,  in 
fifteen  feet  of  water;  last  buoy  bears  west  half  south,  distant  one  and  one-half 
miles;  Smith's  Point,  bears  east-southeast,  distant  one  and  one-fourth  miles;  Point 
Ellis,  north  by  west  one-(piarter  north. 

No.  n. — Spar  buoy,  black,  marking  ncnth  side  of  channel  abreast  of  Astoria  in 
tweh,  e  feet  of  water.  Astoria  Point  bears  southwest  thiee-(iuarrers  west.  Point 
Ellis  bears  northwest  by  north.  Distance  from  Elavel's  Wharf  one-third  of  ti 
mile. 

No.  7. — Spar  buoy,  white,  maiking  a  ledge  of  rocks  above  Astoria,  in  thirteen 

feet  of  water.    Distance  from  last  buoy,  one-half  mile.    Distance  from  Flavel's 
Wharf,  three-fourths  mile. 

Buoys  ill  Woodi/  jnUind,  channel  of  Cathhtmct  Bay. 

No.  S. — Spar  buoy,  white,  in  sixteen  feet  of  water.  Tongue  Point  bears  south- 
west half  stmth,  distance  one  and  one-fourth  miles.  Next  white  buoy  (above)  north- 
east three-(|uarters  east,  distant  one  mile. 

No.  0. — Si)ar  buoy,  Mliite,  in  sixteen  feet  of  Avater.  Tongue  Point  bears  south- 
west. Hurnside's  House,  southeast  one-tpiarter  south.  Next  buoy  abovc^,  black, 
bears  east  by  north  three-cjuarters  north,  distant  three-fourths  mile. 

No.  10. — Spar  buoy,  black,  in  twelve  feet  of  water.    Tongue  Point  bears  south- 


^a^aaR-ysK- 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY. 


151 


west  half  west;  IJinnside's  House,  southeast  by  sontli;  next  buoy  above,  white, 
northeast  by  east,  three-fourths  mile. 

No.  11. — Spar  buoy,  wliite,  iu  seventeen  feet  of  water.  Tongue  Point  boars 
southwest  tliree-(]uarters  west;  YeHow  Spot,  north  one-quarter  east;  next  buoy 
above,  white,  northeast  seven-eightlis  niik\ 

No.  12. — Spar  buoy,  white,  in  eighteen  feet  of  water.  Jim  Crow's  Point  bears 
northeast  one-quarter  east;  Yellow  Spot,  north  by  west  one-quarter  north;  next 
buoy  above,  black,  east  by  north  one-quarter  north,  two  miles. 

No.  13. — Spar  buoy,  black,  in  three  and  one-half  fatlioms  of  water.  Jim  Crow's 
Point  bears  north-northeast ;  Rock  Knoll,  Avest  by  nortli  half  north. 

TIDES  OF  THE  COLUMBIA  RIVKR. 

At  Astoria  the  corrected  establishment,  or  mean  interval  between  the  time  of 
the  moon's  transit  and  the  time  of  liigh  water,  is  12//.  i2m.  Tlie  mean  ri.ve  and 
fall  of  tides  is  (J.l  feet,  of  spring  tides,  7.4  feet,  and  of  neap  tides,  Hi  i'eet.  The 
mean  duration  of  the  tlood  is  I'Ji.  03«i.,  of  ebb,  G/;.  2S;h.,  and  of  tlie  stand,  0/(.  33m. 
The  average  difference  between  the  corrected  establishments  of  the  a.  m.  and  p.  m. 
tides  of  the  same  day  is  1/t.  02m.  for  high  water,  and  Oh.  52m.  for  low  water.  The 
differences  when  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest  are  1/j.  3Sm.  and  Ih.  low.,  respec- 
tively. The  average  difference  in  height  of  those  two  tides  is  1.4  feet  for  the  high 
waters,  and  2.3  feet  for  the  low  waters.  When  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest 
those  differences  are  1.0  feet  and  3.7  feet,  respeittively.  The  a\erage  difference 
of  the  higher  higli  and  lower  low  waters  of  the  same  day  is  7.1)  feet,  and  when 
the  moon's  declination  is  greatest,  8.9  feet.  The  liigher  higii  tide  in  tlie  twenty- 
four  liours  occurs  about  12/t.  11m.  after  the  moon's  upper  transit,  (southing,)  when 
the  moon's  declination  is  north,  and  about  0/(.  15»».  before,  wlien  soutli.  The  lower 
of  the  low  waters  occurs  about  seven  and  a  half  liours  after  the  higher  high  water. 
The  greatest  observed  dilference  between  the  two  low  waters  of  one  day  was  5.1 
feet,  and  the  greatest  difference  between  the  higher  high  anil  lower  low  Avaters  of 
one  day  Avas  11.5  feet. 

The  two  tides  of  the  same  day  are  generally  unequal  in  proportion  to  the 
moon's  declination.  The  time  and  height  can  be  obtained  aiiproximately  from  the 
following  table: 


Modu'm  iipiior  mi'iidiaii  ]ia.ssngo. 

JIoiiu'.s  lon-er  moridiau  passa 

K''- 

Moon's  (locliiiation. 

High  wati>r. 

Low  water. 

Itigli  water. 

Low  water. 

lult'ival. 

Hoiglit. 

Iiiti'ival. 

Height. 

Ii;  larval. 

Height. 

Interval. 

Height, 

Gri'iUcstiioiMi 

Zii'o 

II.  M. 
l-i    4 

1-J  r. 

IJ  10 

Firt. 
f .  1 
7.  5 
6.5 

//.  M. 

Ill  :w 
111  11 

IH  M 

r.ri. 
—1).  t 

0,8 
•J.  5 

If.  M. 

l:i  Hi 
1-j    ,-. 
l-J    1 

Fert. 
0.  -< 
7.  ."t 
H.  1 

n.  M. 

is  :w 
1.1  u 
ill  :t9 

I\-el. 
0.8 

—0.  4 

The  interval  is  to  be  added  to  the  time  of  the  moon's  meridian  passage  to  give 


l! 


152 


COAST  riLOT  OF  ^VASniNGTON  TEKKITORY. 


■i 


tlio  timo  of  high  or  low  wator.  The  time  of  tlio  moon's  uppor  meridian  jiassajye  is 
fiivcn  in  the  Almanac,  and  tlio  time  of  its  lower  meridian  ])assaf;e  is  the  middle 
between  two  sneeessive  njjiier  passages.  The  heights  are  given  in  feet  and  tenths, 
ami  show  the  rise  above  the  level  of  the  average  of  the  lowest  waters ;  to  which 
level  the  soundings  on  tiie  chart  are  given. 

Spring  tides. — ^\t  the  full  and  change  of  the  moon  the  high  waters  will  be  O.S 
foot  higher  than  the  above,  and  the  low  waters  0.5  i'oot  lower. 

yeap  iides. — At  the  moon's  tli-st  and  last  quarters  the  high  waters  will  be  0.8 
foot  lower,  and  the  low  waters  will  not  fall  as  low  by  0.")  foot. 

The  tide  on  the  bars  of  the  north  and  south  channels  makes  nearly  hfly  min- 
utes earlier  than  at  Astoria. 

rOlNTS  INSIDE   OF   COLUMBIA  KIVER  ENTRANCE. 

Sand  Lshoid. — This  island,  the  tirst  met  with  after  ])assing  the  bar,  is  about 
one  and  a  quarter  miles  long,  and  is  separated  at  high  water  into  two  parts. 
These  two  ])arts  lie  east-northeast  and  west-southwest  of  each  other,  and  are 
about  four  hundred  and  thirty  yards  ai)art.  They  consist  of  loose  sand  raised  a 
few  feet  above  the  river,  and  covered  with  trees,  drift-logs,  v*v:c.  Friau  the  west- 
ern eiul  of  Fand  Island  a  sand-l>ar,  three-quarters  of  a  mile  long  and  bare  at  low 
water,  extends  in  a  west-southwest  direction;  and  from  the  end  of  this  bare  si>it 
the  great  ^Middle  Sands  make  out,  sei)arating  the  north  and  south  channels. 

Chinoolc  Foinf,  on  the  northern  side  of  the  river,  lies  north  by  east  two  and 
three-quarters  miles  from  Point  Adams,  and  east  quaiter  north  four  and  three- 
quarters  miles  from  Cape  l)isa]>pointment.  It  is  a  long,  low  sand  strip  at  the  base 
of  the  high  wooded  hills  behind  it.  One  of  the  hills,  called  Scarborough,  is 
readily  recognized  by  a  great  ])art  of  its  southern  slope  being  destitute  of  trees 
and  covered  with  fern;  no  other  hill  near  this  vicinity  possesses  this  peculiar 
feature. 

A  niunber  of  iishiiig  and  Indian  huts  are  situated  upon  the  Chinoolv  beach, 
the  peoi)le  being  engaged  in  catching  and  curing  salmon,  with  which  the  waters 
abound.  TIu>  nu)de  of  catching  them  is  by  means  of  nets;  those  of  Indian  con- 
struction being  made  of  twine  spun  from  the  fibres  of  the  spruce  roots,  and  some- 
times from  a  ])eculiar  grass  obtained  from  northern  coast  Indians.  The  mode  of 
curing  is  very  rude  and  inetlicient,  ami  thousands  of  barrels  that  have  been  ship- 
ped have  proved  worthless.  There  is  no  reason  why  this  should  not  become  a 
large  and  ]U"ofitable  branch  of  business.  The  llsh  are  the  largest  on  the  coast, 
often  exceeding  eighty  pouiuls  in  weight.  "We  have  purchased  them  weighing 
between  fifty  and  sixty  pounds,  caught  upon  the  beach  at  the  sea  base  of  Cape 
l)isai>i»ointment.  They  connnence  to  run  about  the  end  of  i\Iay,  and  become 
reinarkal>ly  jtlentifid  by  the  third  week  in  June.  The  Indians  suppose  that  the 
salmon,  coming  directly  from  the  ocean,  linger  about  the  entrance  several  weeks 
before  starting  up  the  river,  because  they  recjuire  timo  to  become  accustomed  to 
the  fresh  water;  attributing  to  a  wrong  cause  this  nornnU  habit  of  the  salmon. 


ly  iiiiii- 


COAST  riLOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TERRITOKY.  153 

Chinook  Point  was  the  special  location  of  the  once  powerful  tribe  of  Chinook 
Indians,  and  here  the  celebrated  one-eyed  chief,  Conconily,  held  sway.  The  tribe 
lias  dwindled  to  less  than  a  hundred  persons — men,  women,  and  children — and 
they  are  poor,  miserable,  drunken,  diseased  wretches. 

The  ])oint  was  called  Villaf>e  Point  by  l}rou<;hton,  in  171t-. 

In  1830  it  was  called  Chenokc  Point  by  Belcher.  The  Indian  name  is  Nose- 
to-ilse. 

Point  ElUce,  on  the  northern  side  of  the  riA'ev,  is  two  and  three-quarters  miles 
nearly  east  of  Chinook  Point;  the  sand  beaxih  between  the  two  being  in  some 
l»laces  nearly  a  mile  wide,  runnins  at  the  base  of  the  hills,  and  surronndinj;  a 
large  lagoon  near  Chinook.  From  Point  Adams  it  bears  nt)rtheast,  distant  four 
and  a  third  miles. 

Behind  Point  Ellice  rise  two  hills,  the  southern  of  which  is  used  as  a  range 
with  Point  Adams  for  denoting  the  entrance  to  the  south  channel,  but,  of  course, 
the  relative  positions  vary  Avith  every  change  of  the  bar. 

It  was  called  Ellis  I»oiut  by  Belcher  in  1839,  and  Point  Ellice  by  the  United 
States  exploring  exjjedition  in  1841,  and  this  spelling  is  fimnd  u])on  all  recent 
maps,  being  named  after  Edward  Ellice,  then  one  of  the  directors  of  the  Iludsou 
Bay  Company. 

The  Indian  name  is  No-wehtl-kai-ilse. 

Yoiiiufs  Point,  on  the  southern  side  of  the  river,  is  the  first  point  made  after 
passing  eastward  of  Clatsop  Beach.  Iiiunediately  behind  it  the  land  is  high  and 
densely  wooded;  and  around  its  southern  face,  opens  Young's  Kiver. 

It  was  called  "Point  Ceorge"  by  Bioughton  in  17t)L';  "George  Point"  by 
Belcher  in  183!) ;  "Young's  Point"  by  the  United  States  exphuing  exi)edition  in 
1841;  "Smith's  Point"  by  the  Coast  Survey,  iu  the  triangulatiou  of  1852;  but  it 
is,  we  believe,  generally  known  as  Young's  Point. 

Astor  Point,  on  the  southern  side  of  the  river,  lies  east  three-(iuarters  north, 
distant  five  and  a  third  miles  from  Point  Adams.  It  is  low  at  the  river  bank,  but 
has  moderately  high  wooded  land  behind  it.  The  southern  channel  passes  (ilose 
to  it.  The  name  is  derived  from  a  Coast  Survey  triangulatiou  and  secondary 
astronomical  station  upon  it,  but  it  is  in  reality  a  i)art  of  Young's  Point. 

The  geographical  position  of  the  station,  which  is  about  a  quarter  of  a  milo 
westward  of  the  bay,  in  front  of  the  town,  is: 

o       /  " 

Latitude 40  11  27.G  north. 

Longitude 1-3  49  31.7  west. 

/(.     III.        s. 

Or,  ui  time H  1^  l^.l- 

Tongue  Point,  on  tlie  southern  side  of  tlie  rivi-r,  bears  east-northeast  eight  and 

three-(puirters  miles  from  Point  Adams,  and  northeast  ouc^-third  east  three  and  a 

•  half  miles  from  Astor  Point.    It  is  a  high,  bold  blurt'  covered  with  trees,  and  cou- 


I,  A 


■  m 


154 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASUIXGTON  TElllilTOllY. 


nccted  with  tlie  main  by  a  moderately  low,  imrrow  strip  of  land.  As  first  made, 
oft'  the  entranee,  it  ai)i)ears  like  a  low  wooded  island.  ('lose  to  it  runs  the  Woody 
Island  (ihannel,  which  is  plainly  foreshadowed  in  liclehcr's  survey  of  the  river. 
The  Indian  name  of  Tonyue  Point  is  !Soo-kiini-its-t''-ak. 

Just  above  Astor  I'oint  is  situated  tlie  town  of  Astoria,  now  a  thrivinj^'  com- 
mercial place.  The  custom-house  is  located  here,  and  it  is  conne<ted  with  Salem, 
the  capital  of  the  State,  by  a  military  road.  Vessels  bound  up  the  ri ,er  liero 
exchange  the  "bar  pilot"  for  a  "river  pilot."    About  the  distance  between 

Astor  and  Tongue  Points  lies  the  wreck  of  the  ship  Silver  de  Grace  ui)on  a  dan- 
gerous rock,  close  in  to  which  the  channel  goes,  and  around  which  the  current 
runs  with  great  velocity  either  way  at  half  tide. 

Cdjie  Brouijhton  is  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  north-northwest  three  and  a 
quarter  miles  from  Tongue  Point,  and  northeast  one-quarter  east  five  and  three- 
quarters  miles  from  Point  Ellice. 

It  was  nanuid  by  Belcher  in  1839,  but  was  called  Gray's  Point  by  the  United 
States  exi)loring  expedition. 

On  the  Coast  Survey  charts  it  is  called  Cape  Broughton. 

The  head  between  Point  Ellice  and  Cape  Broughton  Avas  named  Chatham 
Head  in  18;i9. 

Gray\s  Bay  lies  to  the  northeast  of  Cape  Broughton,  and  was  named  in  1792  in 
honor  of  Captain  Gray. 

Young\s  Bay  lies  between  the  eastern  part  of  Clatsop  Beach  (called  Tansey 
Point)  and  Young's  Point.  Into  it  empty  Young's  River,  discovered,  examined, 
and  iu\nied  by  Broughton;  Lewis  and  Clarke's  Kivers,  examined  by  them  in  1805 ; 
and  one  or  two  small  streanjs  or  slues. 

jKaAt'»-'s  Bay  lies  between  Caj>e  Disappointment  and  Chinook  Point.  It  runs 
two  and  a  half  miles  to  the  northward  of  the  cape,  and  receives  the  waters  of 
the  snudl  streams  which  head  towards  Shoalwater  Bay,  and  is  connected  with 
them  by  a  small  portage.  The  western  and  largest  stream  is  the  ^Val-la-khut ;  the 
eastern,  half-way  between  the  cape  and  Chinook  Point,  is  the  AVap-pa-loo-chee. 

The  Columbia  Itiver  Avas  called  the  "  Oregon,"  from  the  mere  mention  of  that 
name,  by  Carver,  in  170(5.    Much  doubt  exists  as  to  tlie  origin  of  the  name. 

In  1775  it  was  called  "Assumi»tion  Inlet"  by  lleceta,  but  afterwards  the 
Rio  de  San  Roque,  from  his  naming  the  northern  cape  San  Rocpie,  and  also  the 
Ensenada  de  lleceta. 

In  1789  ]\Ieares  called  it  "Deception  Bay." 

In  1792  it  was  liamed  "  Columbia  River  "  by  Gray. 

Clarke  says  that,  in  1805,  the  Indians  knew  it  as  the  Shoeatilnm ;  and 
another  name,  obtained  from  another  body  of  the  natives,  was  Chockalillcum ;  the 
two  being  evidently  the  same  word  dillerently  pronounced.  The  accent  should  be 
on  the  penult. 

When  the  name  given  by  Gray  was  (irst  changed  is  not  known.  It  was,  per- 
haps, done  l>y  Vancouver  or  Broughton. 


1 


ls  first  made, 
IS  tlie  Woody 
of  the  river. 

liriviiij>-  coiii- 
witli  Salem, 
le  ri/er  liere 
nice  between 
',  upon  a  dau- 
i  the  current 

■  three  and  a 
e  and  three- 

y  the  United 


led  Chatham 

wl  in  1792  in 

lied  Tansey 
1,  examined, 
lem  in  1805 ; 

nt.  It  runs 
lie  waters  of 
inectcd  with 
la-klmt;  the 
i-loo-chee. 
ition  of  that 
lame. 

awards  the 
nd  also  the 


tilum;  and 
ilk'um ;  the 
it  should  bo 

t  was,  per- 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASCIInGTOX  TEEIUTORY. 


155 


From  Three-trees  Point  (or  Cathlamet)  the  distance  to  the  mouth  of  tlie  Cow- 
litz is  twenty-seven  miles;  to  St.  Heh-n's,  sixty-five  miles;  to  the  month  of  the 
AVillaiiiette,  sixty-three  miles;  to  Vancouver,  the  military  post,  sixty-eight  miles; 
and  to  Portland,  the  commercial  capital,  seventy-flve  miles. 

It  is  reported  that  two  feet  less  water  can  be  taken  over  the  "  Swan  Island 
bar,"  in  tin;  Willamette  Uiver,  just  below  P(n'tland,  than  can  be  taken  throu;;ii  tlu^ 
Woody  Island  channel.  Above  Tongue  Point  a  river  pilot  is  absolutely  necessary 
to  all  strangers. 

CIIAlSraES  IN  THE   CHANNELS  AT   THE   MOUTH  OF   THE  RIVER. 

The  first  reliable  survey  of  the  entrances  to  the  river  was  made  by  Lieutenant 
Broughton,  under  the  orders  of  Vancouver,  in  October  1792.  His  survey  shows 
that  but  one  channel  existed  ;  that  its  general  direction  across  the  bar  was  east 
by  north  three-quarters  north,  passing  one  and  a  lialf  miles  south  of  Cape  Disap- 
pointment ;  that  it  was  six  miles  long  from  the  outer  five-fathom  line  to  a  line  join- 
ing the  cape  with  Point  Adams;  that  it  was  one  and  one  half  m  s  wide,  and  had 
not  less  than  four  fathoms  in  it ;  and  that  the  Spit  Bank  (now  called  Chinook  Spit) 
stretched  nearly  straight  from  about  a  mile  east  of  the  caiie  to  Chinook  Point. 
In  the  space  bounded  by  the  three  lines  joining  Cape  Disappointment,  Chinook 
Point,  and  Point  Adams,  five  fathoms  was  the  least  water  found.  The  deepest 
channel,  after  getting  over  the  bar,  was  close  under  the  north  shore  eastward  of 
Chinook  Point.  A  narrow  channel  was  also  develoijed  between  the  river  side  of 
Point  Adams  and  the  shoal  stretching  from  Cape  Broughtoii  towards  it.  It  had 
three  fathoms  in  it. 

British  Ailmiraltij  Survey  in  ISS^,).  The  next  examination  of  the' entrance  to 
Columbia  Kiver  was  made  by  Sir  Edward  Belcher  in  18;J9.  His  survey  shows  the 
following  remarkable  changes:  Between  Cape  Disappointment  and  Post  Adams  a 
large  middle  bank  had  formed,  (the  present  great  middle  sands,)  and  near  the 
eastern  end  of  this  bank  a  sandy  island  appeared,  (Sand  Island,)  Avith  a  bank  one 
and  a  half  miles  long,  extending  to  the  westward  from  it,  bare  at  low  water^ 
and  full  of  snags  and  trees.  Its  northwestern  point  bore  east-southeast,  two  and 
three-quarters  miles  from  Cape  Disappointment,  stretching  on  this  course  one  and 
a  h-'df  miles  further,  so  that  its  eastern  end  bore  north  half  M'est,  one  and 
a  third  miles  from  Point  Aihims.  Off  this  eastern  end  was  found  deep  water. 
This  great  middle  ground,  covering  an  extent  of  four  square  miles  within  the 
three-fathom  lines,  occujiied  part  of  the  track  where  Broughton,  in  1792,  found 
five  fathoms.  The  ^Middle  Bank  and  Sand  Island  divided  the  waters  of  the  river, 
and  tl.as  two  channels  were  formed.  The  bank  on  the  southwestern  face  of  Cai»e 
Disappointment  (now  cjvlled  Iforth  Breakers)  stretched  one  and  a  half  miles  to 
the  southward  of  its  old  limits,  and  nearly  across  Broughton's  only  channel  of  1792. 
A  middle  ground  had  formed  to  the  eastward  of  Cape  Disappointment,  and  oft'  the 
entrance  to  Baker  Bay,  which  separated  what  is  now  called  the  north  channel 
from  the  channel  into  Baker  Bay.    On  the  northwest  point  of  this  shoal  Bel- 


1 


{ 


" 


156 


COAST  I'lLOT  OF  WASIJINGTON  TEIMUTOIIY. 


clipr  foniid  only  six  foot.  Tti  1702  tliprc  was  (loop  water  all  over  iho  space 
occupied  in  lS.'i!M)y  tliis  iiiithllc  firound.  Si)it  Hiink  (now  called  Cliinook  Si>it) 
had  been  cut  away  by  the  waters  of  IJclclier  (Jliannel,  (now  called  Ntutli  ("liannel.) 
The  western  part  of  the  shoal  oil"  Point  Adams  had  been  cut  away  to  a  distance 
of  three  miles,  and  a  channel  ojieiu^d  alouf^'  the  Clatsop  beach  and  south  shore, 
past  Point  St.  George  and  Tonf;ue  Point. 

Si(rveij  of  the  United  States  exploring  crperlitlnn,  1841. — This  survey  shows 
but  one  opening'  to  tlie  ocean,  with  the  inside  north  and  south  channels  cond»in- 
iufj  and  ]>assiii<;-  throuj^h  it.  Since  Helcher's  survey,  the  sou*^li  sands  had  stretched 
to  the  westward  across  the  south  channel  as  it  existed  in  1S.'!!»,  but  the  north  chan- 
nel was  but  little  changed.  It  had  several  lumps  with  oidy  four  fathoms;  its  yen- 
eral  direction  was  the  same ;  it  had  at  least  a  fathom  more  than  the  south  chan- 
nel, and  retained  its  former  shape  and  direction  after  i)assin<?  inside  the  cape. 

The  shape  aud  position  of  the  middle  sands  were  nearly  the  same,  but  Its 
eastern  point  had  moved  nearly  half  a  mile  to  the  northwest,  }^ivin<4'  dee])  water 
where  IJelcher  placed  the  eastern  part  of  Sand  Island,  while  the  western  islet 
occupied  nearly  the  same  position  as  formerly. 

Tlie  western  end  of  the  gjreat  middle  ground  cast  of  Point  Adams  liad 
scarcely  changed. 

The  course  in  over  the  bar  and  through  Queen's  or  South  Channel  was 
straight  for  over  six  miles,  until  abreast  of  Point  Adams,  and  then  ran  in  the 
same  direction  as  in  1S31). 

The  United  States  sloop-of-war  Peacock  was  lost  on  the  north  shoals,  one  and 
one-half  miles  south  by  west  from  Cape  Disap]»ointment. 

Surveys  'of  the  United  Statefi, — The  fust  examination  of  Columbia  IJiver 
entrance  by  the  ITnitcd  States  Coast  Survey  was  made  in  1850.  This  survey 
shows  the  following  changes  since  1S41. 

The  south  sands,  (now*  called  Clatsop  Spit,)  Avhich,  in  ISll,  stretched  six 
miles  to  the  Avestward  from  Point  Adams,  had  been  cut  through  about  midway 
between  the  ])oint  aiul  tlu'ir  western  extremity  by  a  Avide  channel,  Avith  deep 
water,  running  south  by  Avest  from  Saml  Island.  But  the  bar  of  this  channel  AAas 
not  fairly  opened,  there  being  less  than  three  fathoms  on  it.  This  channel  Avas, 
therefore,  running  at  right  angles  to  that  of  1811,  and  OA'cr  the  spot  marked  bare 
in  1830. 

The  north  channel  retained  the  same  general  features,  but  had  moved  to  the 
southward ;  its  southern  part  cutting  away  oA'er  a  mile  of  the  west  end  of  the 
south  saiuls  of  1811.  It  still  had  OA'cr  a  fathom  more  Avater  than  the  south  chan- 
nel. Inside  of  Cape  Disappointment  it  retained  the  same  p-eijcral  direction  as  in 
1841,  but  Avas  more  contracted. 

The  ^Fiddle  Bank  (now  called  ]\Iiddle  Sands)  was  mncli  changed,  but  its 
northern  i)art  Avas  similar  to  that  of  the  previous  surA'cys.  The  eastern  \mnt  had 
moved  north-northwest  three-quarters  of  a  mile  since  1841.  Sand  Island  had 
much  increased  in  size,  and  had  ai^parently  moA'cd  with  it. 


m 


COAST  riLOT  or  WASlILNTiTON  TEIII{ITOItY. 


157 


A  loii"-  sand  bank  had  mado  ont  from  Point  Adams  in  si  noitliwost  direction 
for  over  a  mile.    It  was  then,  and  is  now,  ealh'd  Chitsop  Spit. 

Tiie  western  end  oftlie  j^reat  iiiiddlo  shoal  eastward  of  Point  Adams  had  been 
cut  away  three-(iuarters  ota  mile. 

t^unry  of  1852. — This  was  the  second  examination  nnide  by  the  Coast  Snr\ey, 
and  was  founded  on  a  complete  triaiifiulation  and  the  topof-raphy  of  Point  A(hims, 
Sand  Island,  and  Cape  l)isai)pointment.  This  survey  developed  the  following 
chaiifjes. 

The  new  south  channel  had  been  fnlly  cut  out,  and  the  bar  had  moved  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  eastward,  with  a  wider  entrance  and  three  feet  more  water. 

The  north  channel  had  contracted  to  half  its  width  at  the  bar,  with  its  north- 
ern line  upon  the  line  of  1850.  The  depth  was  not  (piitc  so  great,  but  there  was 
still  a  fathom  mon;  water  than  on  the  South  P»ar.  The  channel  was  not  so  straight 
as  in  1850,  and  a  swash  channel  had  formed  southwest  of  the  cape,  across  the  XortU 
Sands,  (now  called  North  Preakers.) 

The  Spit  Pock  (Chinook  Spit)  of  17!)2  was  being  re-develo])ed. 

The  iliddle  Panic  (now  called  Middle  Sands)  had  increased  in  size;  and  Sand 
Island  had  moved  to  the  west-northwest  over  a  (pmrter  of  a  mile,  giving  eight 
tathoms  of  water  whore  the  beacon  of  1850  stood.  The  bank",  bare  at  low  water, 
which  extended  to  the  westward  from  the  island,  had  split  into  two  forks,  or 
spits.  Compaicd  with  the  surveys  of  1839  and  18-11,  we  find  that  one  part  of 
Sand  Island  retained  the  same  position;  bnt  that  a  mile,  stretching  east  by 
south  half  south,  had  been  completely  cut  away,  and  was  crossed  by  the  south 
channel. 

Clatsop  Spit  had  changed  its  shape,  tremling  more  to  the  westward. 

The  western  end  of  the  great  middle  shoal  east  of  Point  Adams  occupied  the 
position  given  to  it  in  18;}!)  and  18-11. 

Although  no  re-survey  was  made  by  the  Coast  Survey  until  18r»8,  it  nniy  be 
remarked  that  in  1857  the  south  bar  was  within  less  than  a  mile  of  the  beach 
south  of  Point  Adams,  and  the  channel  ran  nearly  parallel  with  and  about  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  shore.  The  north  channel  was  wide  and  straight. 
In  October  1857  the  south  channel  closed  up  entirely. 

Survey  of  18G8. — This  was  the  third  examination  made  by  the  Coast  Stnvey 
of  the  bars  and  entrances  to  the  river,  an<l  has  been  executed  in  the  most  thorough 
nmnner,  fiom  a  dei)th  of  lifteen  fathoms  outside  the  bars  to  Tlu-ee-trees  Point, 
ab(mt  twenty-three  miles  above  Cape  Disappointment.  This  survey  shows  the  fol- 
lowing important  changes : 

First.  The  re-opening  of  the  south  channel  with  a  fathom  more  water  than 
can  be  found  in  the  north  channel.  The  new  channel  entrance  is  now  over  two 
miles  wide  between  the  south  point  of  the  Middle  Sands,  and  the  southwest  side  of 
Clatsop  Spit,  and  has  over  four  fathoms  in  it.  Its  course  is  lirst  north-northwest 
f(n-  three  and  a  half  miles,  until  abreast  of  tin;  northwest  point  of  Clatsop  Si»it, 
when  it  turns  and  runs  northeast  by  east  half  east,  between  Point  Adams  ami 


S  111 


T^ 


158 


COAST  riLOT  OF  WARTTTNGTON  TERTMTOKY. 


Sand  Isliiiid,  Joining  tho  north  channel  at  a  point  whence  Point  Adams  beai-H  oa.st- 
sontlieast. 

The  north  channel  is  narrower,  bnt  hoMs  pretty  nuieh  the  same  i)osili(tn  as 
in  isr»7.  r.nt  only  tliree  and  a  halt' fathoms  can  be  carried  thronj^h  it.  In  its  nar- 
rowest jtart  it  is  over  six  hundred  yards  wide  between  the  three-Cathom  lines.  Its 
conrse  is  northeast  from  the  entrance  to  IVaeock  Spit,  one  and  a  quarter  miles 
south  half  east  from  Disappointment  li<;'hthouse.  It  then  runs  du(^  north  one  and 
one-eighth  miles  until  abreast  of  Sulphur  Spit,  (wiu-re  Belcher  grounded,)  which  is 
southeast  by  east  half  east  tive-eighths  of  a  mile  from  I)isai»pointment  light-house, 
and  then  tuins  northeast  three-(juarters  east  one  ami  three-eighths  miles;  after 
which  it  skirts  the  mutheru  side  of  Sand  Island,  and  joins  the  south  channel. 

The  ><'orth  IJicakers,  formerly  called  the  North  Sands,  extend  from  Cape  Dis- 
apjiointment  south-southwest  two  and  three-eighths  miles  from  the  light-bouse.  For 
one  mile  and  three-(puutcrs  of  this  distance  they  had  less  than  twelve  feet  of  water, 
aiul  for  live-eighths  of  a  mile  they  were  dry  at  low  water. 

Sand  Island  Avas  found  to  have  separated  into  two  parts:  the  easternmost  part 
lying  east-northeast  and  west-southwest  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  lengtli;  tho 
westernmost  part  lying  north-northeast  and  south-southwest  also  three-quarters  of  ii 
mile  long.  At  low  watei-  both  parts  were  Joined,  and  the  whole  formed  a  bare- 
sand-spit  lying  east-northeast  and  west-southwest  two  miles  in  length.  From  tho 
west  end  of  this  sand-spit  the  Great  Middle  Sands  extended  flrst  .southwest  two 
miles,  with  an  average  width  of  tive-eighths  of  a  mile,  and  then  south-southeast  for 
two  miles  and  a  quarter;  the  south  point  of  the  sands  bearing  south  l)y  east  nearly 
live  miles  from  i';\\w  ])isai»pointment  light-house,  and  southwest  by  west  four  aiul 
a  half  miles  from  northern  extremity  of  Point  Adams.  Clatsop  Spit  extended 
west  one-(iuarter  north  from  Point  Adams  to  a  distance  of  two  and  three-quarters 
miles,  and  was  composed  of  several  spits,  bare  at  low  water,  which  are  surrounded 
by  masses  of  breakers;  the  spit  is  two  and  a  half  miles  wide,  in  a  northeast  and 
southwest  direction,  at  a  distance  of  one  and  a  <piarter  miles  from  JNtint  Adams; 
from  its  n(uthwi'st  point  to  the  east  end  of  the  Jliddle  Sands  is  exactly  one  mile 
between  the  lines  of  three  fathoms;  this  is  the  narrowest  part  of  the  South  Chan- 
nel. 

A  swash-channel,  with  eight  feet  of  water,  which  runs  close  to  the  northwest 
side  of  Point  Adams,  was  found  to  have  nearly  cut  across  Clatsop  Spit,  from  its 
north  to  south  side,  and  no  doubt  by  this  time  has  been  cut  completely  through; 
its  direction  is  almost  exactly  north  and  scmth. 

S]nt  liar  (now  called  C'hiuook  Spit)  has  a  general  direction  from  Chinook 
Point  west  half  north  five  and  a  half  miles;  and  the  line  of  three  fathoms  from 
Chinook  Point  runs  tirst  Avest  half  north  for  five  miles,  and  then  gradually  turns 
to  the  south  and  west  and  forms  the  extreme  point  of  the  shoal  nearly  a  half  mile 
east  three-quarters  south  from  Cape  Disappointment  light-house ;  at  this  point  the 
north  chaniu'l  is  barely  four  hundred  yards  wide  between  the  three-fathom  lines; 
this  is  its  narrowest  i)art.     Mid-way  between  Chinook  Point  and  Cape  I)isapj)oint- 


r 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASHINGTON  Ti:Ul{lTOllY. 


159 


lu'ou^li ; 


ment  tlio  spit  is  dry  at  low  water  for  one  mile  aiul  a  (inarter  of  its  Iciijjftli,  and  in 
many  otlier  places  the  extreme  low  tides  also  leave  it  l»are. 

A\'e  tind  three  distinct  eliaiiiiels  t'ornied  after  we  pass  Sand  island;  the  lirst 
close  nnder  the  nortii  sliore  for  alxMit  seven  miles  in  an  east-northeast  direction, 
when  it  cats  across  the  Great  ]\li(hlle  liaidv  in  a  siudhwest  l>y  sonth  direction,  and 
joins  the  nnd-way  channel  about  two  nules  west  of  Tonj^ue  Toint;  thron^h  tiiis 
channel  littecn  feet  can  be  carried  at  mean  low  water,  its  shoalest  part  beinjj;  where 
it  crosses  the  Great  ]\li(ldle  Bank.  The  add- way  ehaniu'l  occupies  nearly  the  middle 
of  the  river;  it  runs  from  tlu'  point  of  Junction  of  the  north  and  south  channels, 
east  one-(iuarter  south  four  miles,  and  then  turns  and  runs  about  east  by  north 
half  north,  joining  the  south  channel  at  Tonjjue  Point;  its  narrowest  part  is  north- 
northwest  of  Smith's  Point,  wliore  it  is  only  ouc-oiyhth  of  a  nule  wide  between  the 
three-fathom  lines.  Tiiis  channel  cuts  across  the  Great  Middhi  Bank  in  an  east 
by  north  direction,  about  one  and  three-cpnirters  of  a  nnle  from  its  western  ejid, 
and  over  three  fathoms  of  water  maybe  carried  through  it  at  luean  low  watei". 

The  south  channel  skirts  the  north  side  of  Point  Adams,  running;'  lirst  in  an 
east  by  south  half  south  direction  live  miles  to  Toni;ue  P>ar,  when  it  tnriis  about 
and  runs  east-northeast  across  the  mouth  of  Young's  Bay,  and  close  to  Snath's  Point 
to  Astoria.  From  Astoria  the  channel,  although  somewhat  crooked,  has  a  general 
dinu'tiou  northeast  to  Tongue  INjint,  still  keeping  close  to  the  ;  .»uth  shore  of  the 
river;  at  Tongue  I'oint  it  Joins  the  other  two  channels.  At  Tongue  I'oint  tlie 
channel  again  <livides  into  three  parts,  the  most  northern  of  which  runs  to  the 
northeast  and  then  to  the  eastward,  and  Joins  the  channel  umler  the  north  shore  at 
Eocky  Knoll.  Thirteen  feet  nniy  be  carried  through  this  chaniu'l  to  Kocky  Knoll; 
but  extensive  tlats,  across  which  only  seven  feet  at  low  water  can  be  carried,  sep- 
arate it  from  the  Woody  Island  Channel. 

The  nuddle  fork,  called  the  Woody  Island  Channel,  has  a  general  course  about 
northeast  by  east  from  Tongue  Point,  about  three  ami  three-(iuarters  nules,  where 
it  again  divides  into  two  chauuelsj  which  are  separated  by  a  mass  of  sand,  bare  at 
low  Avater. 

The  north  fork  is  called  Ilocky  Knoll  Channel.  The  south  fork  retains  the 
general  name,  "Woody  Island  Channel.''  The  general  course  of  Woody  Island 
Channel,  from  the  point  where  Ilocky  Knoll  Channel  Joins  it,  is  about  northeast 
to  Woody  Island,  live  miles ;  and  then  the  channels  all  uniting  in  one,  hug  the 
north  shore  of  the  river  to  Three-trees  Point. 

Thus  we  see  that  the  survey  of  18(58  shows  an  immense  middle  bank,  begin- 
lung  tluee-cpuirters  of  a  iuile  to  the  west  of  Woody  Island  and  extending  to  within 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  of  Point  Adams,  a  distance  of  nearly  sixteen  miles ;  but 
that  this  great  extent  of  shoal  water  is  cut  up  by  many  slues  and  channels,  the 
main  ones  of  which  beginning  from  the  west  are — First,  the  north  ciumnel,  whicli, 
after  skirting  the  north  shore,  passed  Chinook  Point  and  Point  Ellice,  cuts  across 
the  Great  Middle  Banks,  six  miles  from  its  west  end.  Second,  the  nud-way 
channel,  which  <!uts  across  the  bank  about  three  and  a  half  nules  to  the  west  of 


100 


COAST  riLOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TKllKITORY. 


iKntli  cliniiiicl,  iiiid  one  iiinl  a  liiilf  Jiiil»>.s  from  tlio  west  end  of  the  bmik.  Third, 
tlif  iioi'tli  fork  of  tlic  cliaiMM-l  :it  Tongue  Point,  wliirii  cnts  across  tlic  Itank  (list  in 
a  iiortlirast  and  tli<-n  in  an  cast  dirrction,  \vli<-n  it  joins  t]n>  ciiiinncl  on(  ot'(ira,v's 
Hay,  and  liotii  to;;<'tlu'r  form  a  Inoad  and  deep  clianm-i,  wliicji,  skiiliny  tlu'  noitii 
.'•lion'  of  the  river,  Hepariites  the  noitli  side  of  the  bank  from  the  shore,  and  joins 
tlie  ii\vi\t  main  channel  at  the  east  end  of  the  bank,  three-qimrters  of  a  mile  to  the 
west  of  .Jim  Crow  I'oint.  Fonrtli,  the  in)rth  fork  of  the  Woody  Jslaiid  (Channel, 
called  Ivocky  Knoll  Channel,  whicli  cats  across  the  south  side  of  the  bank  in  uii 
east  and  west  direction,  and  separates  from  the  main  Itody  of  the  bank  a  mass  of 
sand  two  miles  long,  and  a  half  mile  wide,  a  large  portion  of  which  is  bare  at  low 
water. 

It  maybe  here  n^marked  that  the  Great  ^liddle  IJank,  through  a  great  portion 
of  its  length,  is  full  of  dry  sand  Mats,  some  of  which  aro  of  great  extent,  being 
over  two  and  a  half  miles  in  length. 

These  are  the  main  changes  developed  by  the  survey  of  1S(J8. 

SAILINU  DIRKCTIONS. 

To  enter  hy  the  South  Channel. — Dring  Cape  Disapi)ointment  light-house  to 
bear  north  by  west  one-quarter  west,  and  steer  for  it.  This  course  will  bring  you 
t(»  the  Outer  lia.  buoy,  which  is  ])laced  in  twelve  fathoms,  one  and  one-eighth 
miles  southeast  by  south  from  the  stmthern  point  of  the  ^Fiddle  Sands.  When  up 
with  this  buoy,  wl.icth  you  may  pass  close  to  on  either  hand,  steer  north  for  three 
and  a  quarter  miles  to  the  red  buoy  on  the  west  end  of  Clatsop  Spit.  Give  this 
buoy  a  berth  to  starboard  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards,  ami  when  abreast  of  it 
steer  northeast  by  north  until  the  Fort  Stevens  llag-stalf  on  Foiut  Adams  bears 
east-southeast.  Then  steer  east  one-<prarter  north  until  the  same  tlag-statf  bears 
southeast  by  south  tliree-cpiarters  south,  when  steer  southeast  one-(iuarter  east 
until  the  ilag-stalf  bears  southwest  three-quarters  west.  Ni>w  steer  east  throe- 
qimrters  scmth,  two  and  three-eight  lis  miles,  until  you  bring  Point  Ellictt  to  bear 
north,  when  you  will  see  a  black  buoy  three-quarters  of  i  mile  northeast  tliree- 
<inarters  east  of  you.  Now  you  must  steer  iiortheatit  by  east  three-quarters  east  to 
Astoria,  where  you  may  conu*,  to  anchor  otf  xistor  P-ii''.,  in  from  seven  to  eight 
fathoms;  or,  by  rounding  the  jioint  to  the  front  of  the  town,  you  may  anchor  in. 
from  four  to  six  fathoms  in  the  bight.  But  if  bouud  up  the  river,  the  best  direc- 
tiou  that  can  be  given  is  to  take  a  pilot  at  Astoria. 

To  enter  Muhcuy  Channel. — AVhen,  on  your  east  one-quarter  north  course  in 
South  Channel,  Fort  Stevens  liag-staft"  bears  southeast  by  south  three-(piarters 
south,  steer  northeast  by  east  half  east,  tliree-(iuarters  of  a  mile,  until  the 
same  Hag  stalf  bears  south  one-(|uarter  west,  Avhen  you  must  steer  east  for  two 
and  three-iiuarters  miles  until  the  west  end  of  Smith's  Point  bears  southeast 
one  quarter  east.  Now  steer  east  by  north  half  north,  three  miles,  until  Cape 
Broughton  bears  north  three-quarters  east.  Then  steer  northeast  by  east 
lialf  east  to  Tongue  Point.    Here  you  must  take  a  pilot. 


Ik.  Third, 
ink  first  ill 
(  <»t'  (i  ray's 
the  iMirtli 
,  iiiid  Joins 
iiiil<>  to  the 
(I  (.'hannel, 
Kink  in  an 
:  a  iiiasa  of 
)aie  at  low 

'at  portion 
tent,  being 


it-house  to 

bring-  you 
one-eighth 

When  up 
1 1  for  three 

CJive  this 
ireast  of  it 
lams  bears 
itatt"  bears 
arter  east 
;ast  three- 
et  to  bear 
ast  three- 
ei's  east  to 
II  to  eiglit 

anchor  iu 
best  (lirec- 

course  in 
e-ipiarters 
until  the 
St  for  two 
southeast 
lutil  Cape 
by    east 


COAST  PILOT  OK  WASIIIMJTON  TKHUITOUV.  1(U 

To  enter  In/  the  North  Channel. — Hring  Cape  l)isai»i»ointiiieiit  lighthouse  to 
Itear  nortli  by  east  three-ipiarters  east,  and  steer  lor  it  until  you  are  in  three  and 
a  half  fathoms  hard  sand,  and  about  two  and  a  lialf  ntilcs  from  the  cape.  Vou 
will  then  lie  about  midway  between  tlie  Middle  Sands  on  the  east  and  the  Xorth 
lireakers  on  tiie  west,  and  must  steer  iiortiieast  one  and  one-tiiird  miles  to  the 
blaek  buoy  olf  Peaeoek  Spit;  whieh  leavi?  on  the  port  haml  (»ne  hundred  and  lifty 
yards,  and  .steer  north  by  ea.st  one-third  east,  one  and  one  ei;.;htii  miles,  for  the 
blaek  buoy  oil  the  southwest  end  uf  Chinook  Siiit.  When  within  three  eighths  of 
a  mile  of  this  buoy,  and  exaetly  abreast  of  tlie  red  buoy  on  Sul|)hur  Spit,  steer 
nortiieast  three  (piartcrs  east,  for  tiie  second  black  buoy  on  CiiiiMtok  Spit,  which 
leave  on  tin;  port  hand  two  liundred  yards  oil'.  Now  steer  east  l»y  south,  four  and 
a  half  miles,  until  tiie  prie.><t's  house  on  Ciiinook  Point  bears  north-nortlieast,  wiieii 
you  may  steer  nortiieast  Ity  east  half  I'ast,  until  Tongue's  Point  licars  east  l»y 
south,  when  you  may  cross  tlie  (Jieat  Middle  iJank  into  midway  cbaiinei  by 
.steering  southeast  by  east,  two  miles,  until  Tongue  Point  bears  <'ast  iiy  iiortii  three- 
quarters  nortii.  Now  steer  nortiieast  by  east  half  east,  and  pass  Tongue 
Point,  alt«'r  wliieii  you  up;  1  taice  a  pilot. 

But  if  bound  to  Astoria,  .stop  your  east  by  south  course  wlieii  Fort  Stevens 
llag-statf  bears  southeast  by  .south  three-quarters  soiitli,  and  steer  for  it  until  tiie 
jniest's  house  on  Chinook  Point  bear.s  northeast  one-quarter  ea.st,  wiien  you  will  l)o 
in  eigiit  fathoms,  and  must  steer  southeast  one-quarter  east,  and  follow  tiie  direc- 
tions given  for  tlie  .s(uitii  channel. 

All  strangers  should  take  a  river  pilot  at  Astoria  or  Tongue  Point. 

SUOALWATEU  BAY. 

The  bold  cllft's  of  Cape  Disappointment,  after  extending  about  three  miUss 
northward,  change  suddenly  to  a  low,  broad,  sandy  beaiili,  running  nortli  by  west 
half  west,  eighteen  miles,  in  nearly  a  straight  line  to  the  soutiiern  point  of  tiio 
entrance  to  Slioalwater  Bay.  A  mile  and  a  (piarter  bi'hind  tliis  beach  lies  tiio 
southern  arm  of  the  bay.  Its  waters  reach  witliin  a  mile  or  two  of  the  ncuth  side 
of  the  cape,  and  tlie  portage  from  them  to  the  Wappalooehe,  emptying  into  P>aker'.s 
Bay,  is  .said  to  l)e  about  a  mile  long,  and  always  use<l  by  tlie  Indians  and  scttler.s. 
The  peninsula  thus  formed  is  covered  witli  trees  and  a  dense  undergrowtli  of 
bushes.  Within  half  a  mile  of  its  extremity  it  becomes  very  low  and  sandy,  and 
has  a  covering  of  eoar.se  gra.ss,  but  no  trees.  Tliis  point  was  called  Low  Point  by 
Meares,  iu  July  17S8.  On  the  recent  Coast  Survey  charts  it  is  named  Leadbetter 
Point.  The  Indian  designation  is  Cliik-lis-ilh.  Its  ap])roximate  geographical 
position,  as  determined  by  the  Coast  Survey,  is  : 

Latitude 10  30  45  north. 

Longitude 124  00   lo  west. 

/(.     lit.        H. 

Or,  iu  time 8  10  ((.5.0 

The  computed  magnetic  variation,  20°  35'  east,  July  1851,  with  a  yearly  in- 
crease of  1'. 
21* 


'' 


1G2 


COAST  riLOT  or  AVASHINCiTON  TERRITOKY. 


CAPE  SIIOALWATER. 

From  Loadbotfor  Point  the  north  ('iii)o  boars  northwest  by  north  two-thirds 
north,  live,  jind  a  half  miles  distant.  il.>M'  a  mile  of  the  eajx'  is  low,  sandy,  ind 
destitntei  of  trees,  but  sonu;  tolerably  hi^h  land  eovj  red  with  wood  lises  immedi- 
ately behind  it,  bein^'  the  only  elevated  j;ronnd  between  Cape  Disappointment 
and  Point  Grenville  th  \t  approaches  the  shore  lino.  On  account  of  this  ibrniation 
of  the  point  it  has  been  said  that  the  entrance  resembles  that  of  Columbia  Kiver ; 
but  wo  have  been  unable  to  detec^t  any  resemblance  after  passin<^  near  it  several 
times.  The  isolated  position  of  C  ipe  Disappointment,  and  the  seaward  face  of 
its  bold  elitls  witlutut  trevs,  form  a  peculiar  feature.  This,  with  Scarbctrouf'h  Hill, 
])artly  bare,  lyinj?  live  or  six  miles  east  of  it,  the  hijih  numntains  inland,  and,  in 
clear  weather,  the  beautifn!  snow-i»eak  of  Mount  St.  ITelens,  have  no  counterparts 
at  Cape  Shoalwater,  and  should  renjove  all  doubt  in  regard  to  goueral  resem- 
blance. 

Seven  miles  southwest  th"oo-quartorH  west,  Tebonkoff  gives  soundings  in  six- 
teen fathoms,  and  a  line  of  soundings  of  same  dei»th  along  the  coast  to  a  position 
southwest  three-ciuaricis  west,  ten  miles  from  Point  Hanson. 

The  point  was  named  Ca[)e  Shoalwater,  and  placed  appioximately  in  latitude 
4G°  47' by  ^Nleares,  in  July  17.SS.  In  ITiL',  Vancouver  assigned  to  it  tlic  latitnde 
of  40°  40'.  It  was  viewed  from  the  north  side  of  Cape  Disappointment  by  Lewis 
ajid  Clarke  in  180"),  and  calied  Point  Lewis,  but  is  souu'times  known  as  Toke  Point, 
from  the  name  of  an  old  Indian  chief  living  h»>'  >•  i;i  18,">4.  The  Indian  name  of  the 
point  is  Quahptsum. 

LIGlIT-UOliSE   AT   CAPE   SHOAL WATEK. 

The  lighthouse  at  the  north  point  of  the  entrance  to  Shoalwater  liay  is  a 
structure  consisting  (»f  a  keeper's  dwelling,  with  a  tower  rising  through  it  and  sur- 
mounted by  an  iron  lantern,  painted  nd.  Its  height  is  f(uty-one  and  a  lialf  feet 
above  the  grouiul,  and  about  eiylity-severi  feet  abeve  the  mean  level  of  the  sea. 
The  dwe'ling  and  tower  are  plastered  and  whitewashed,  and  situaved  about  a  mile 
from  the  extremity  of  the  cape.  The  illuminating  apparatus  is  of  the  foiirtlt  or- 
der of  Fresnel,  shows  afid-ed  n-hitc  light  varied  by  Jitni/ien,  and  should  be  seen  from 
a  height  of — 

10  feet  at  a  distance  of  14|  miles. 

20  foot  at  a  distance  of  1(»    miles. 

30  feet  at  a  distance  of  17    miles. 
It  was  first  exhibited  on  the  tirst  of  October  1858,  and  shows  from  sunset  to 
sunrise.    The  approximate  geographical  position  of  the  light,  as  determined  by 
the  Coast  Survey,  is : 

e      /       /I 

Latitude Hi  44  1 1  north. 

Longitude VJi  Oli  1.'4  west. 

/(.      III.         H. 

Or,  in  time 8  l(i  09.0. 


COAST  PILOT  OP  WASHINGTON  TERKITORY. 


103 


Tliis  lifjlit  was  disoontiniied  Soptcmbcr  1,  1859,  and  rolifrhtfd  in  tlio  oarly  part 
o:' July  ISUl. 

Tlu"  topogiapliy  of  the  vicinity  has  not  been  executed. 


ENTRANCE  TO   SIIOALWATEU  BAY. 

Tlieie  ha .  ing  been  no  survey  of  Slioalwater  Bay  previous  to  the  prebnunary 
one  of  tiie  Coast  Survey  in  1852,  aid  the  coniph'tion  of  it  in  iHo't,  it  is  impossible 
to  state  what  clian'-es  liave  taken  .)la('C.  .Tudjfinj;-  by  the  ehaufjes  of  the  riuni- 
boldt,  UniiHiuah,  and  Columbia  Bars,  we  should  eoiu-buh  that  similar  elU-cts  take 
l>la<'e  here.  In  less  heavy  weather  than  would  cause  th<!  sea  to  break  on  the 
Columbia  Uiver  bars,  it  lueaks  hei'c  with  fury  quite  across  the  entrance.  This 
description  ajiplies  to  18.")L'.  Charts  have  been  published  by  the  Coast  Survey  of 
the  resi)ective  dates  already  mentioned. 

Pour  niih's  off"  the  entrance,  a  depth  often  fathoms  is  found,  and  v.iien  well 
off'  shore,  a  high,  d(nible-peaked  mountain  shows  to  the  eastward,  well  inland. 
Alearcs  noticed  it,  and  placed  it  ir  latitude  kiP  .'{(»',  (piite  close  to  the  coast,  desig- 
nating it  as  Saddle  .Alountain,  a  name  it  still  retains,  although  one  of  the  same 
name  is  Ibuiid  southeast  of  Point  Adams. 

In  IS.")*"!  there  were  two  channels,  denominated  from  their  imsition  the  north 
and  south  channels,  with  a  large  shoal  called  the  Middle  Sands  lying  between 
them,  and  partly  outside  of  the  line  joining  the  two  points. 

The  bar  at  the  .-outli  channel  had  four  fathoms  of  v.ater  upOJi  it,  was  a  mile 
wide,  an<l  lay  two  iiilcs  oft'  the  bcaclv  south  of  Lcadlxtter  Point,  with  the  noith- 
ernmost  trees  l)earing  northeast  l>y  east.  Punning  in  on  this  line  a  vessel  shoaled 
her  water  from  ten  fathoms  three  miles  otf  siiore,  lO  lour  fathoms  t"- )  iiides  oft"; 
then  giadually  deepened  it  to  tive  fathoms,  when  she  hauled  close  up  undc  r  the 
point  of  breakers  nmtlnvard  of  her,  and  about  half  a  mile  distant :  ran  along  in 
from  six  to  seven  fathoms  until  'ibreast  of  the  low  grassy  point,  when  the  course 
of  tne  channel  was  north  by  west  half  west  for  one  and  one-half  miles,  with 
from  eight  to  ten  fatlioir:s,  hard  bottom,  its  (mtline  being  well  nuirked  by  the 
breakers  outside.  I'rom  theiu'e  a  course  northeast  by  north  for  two  miles  led  to 
eighteen  latlumis,  ami  over  a  mile  inside  the  line  Joining  Leadbetter  PcHnt  and 
Cape  Shualwater,  the  western  trees  on  Leadbetter  Point  bearing  south  one-half 
east,  three  and  thre(>-(piarters  jniles  distant.  AVheii  the  tide  was  low,  sand-bars 
and  tlats  showed  on  bot'-  Hands,  one  directly  ahead ;  the  l>road,  deep  channel  to 
the  southeast  distinctly  marked  by  bare  patches  on  either  side,  and  a  naiTow,  deep 
channel  to  the  northwest  ninning  into  the  north  channel.  Prom  the  last  position 
the  western  trees  on  Leadbetter  Point  bore  south,  di.ttant  four  miles.  Hie  gneater 
body  of  water  passed  throiigh  tliis  channel,  and  the  current  ran  very  strong.  In 
summer,  with  a  northwester  blowing,  it  was  a  dead  beat  after  passing  the  bar,  and 
m  some  places  the  channel  was  less  than  half  a  mile  wide  between  the  three- 
fathom  lines.    Coasters  did  not  enter  it  exeeitt  with  a  southerly  wind,  and  ahvayH. 


164 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WAST.r.vClTON  TEKUITOHY. 


I)irk»Ml  out  tlu'  I'liiiiuu'l  Iroin  :.iort.     In  suniiiior  they  had  a  loadiiif;  wind  ont.  and 
istai't«'(l  on  the  (irst  o*'  liic  rbb. 

Tlio  bar  •  i  tlio  north  i-Iianncl  had  about  tlirco  and  a  quarter  fathoms  upon 
it,  ai';l  bore  southwest  by  south  one-ijuarter  soutli,  three  miles  I'rom  the  souflu'ru 
extrenuty  of  Cape  iShoalwater.  It  was  about  a  mik^  in  extent  within  the  three- 
fathom  Hue. 

In  makiufi"  the  bay  from  tlu>  southward  in  sunun<'r  the  directions  were  to  work 
to  the  northward  of  Cape  Shoahvater,  tluMi  run  in  and  follow  the  shore  outsith'  of 
the  breakers  in  six  or  seven  fathoms,  f^iadually  ai)proa(*liin<i  them,  and  deereasiuff 
the  depth  to  four  and  a  half  and  four  fathoms,  when  the  .southern  side  of  the 
elevated  jjround  of  the  eape  bore  northeast  by  north  half  north.  Then  head 
ui>  as  near  that  eimrse  as  ])ossible,  en-ssinj;'  the  bar  in  tliice  and  a  «|uarter 
fathoms,  and  continuinfj"  in  that  depth  for  at  least  ai  mile  and  a  ((uarter,  takinj; 
eare  not  to  deerease  it  on  either  hand.  Ke«'it  under  the  breakers  <»n  the  north  side 
in  from  iive  to  seven  fathoms,  hard  bottom,  and  increase  tlie  de|)th  to  tw«'lve  well 
inside  the  point,  when  i!s  southern  extremity  should  bear  northwest  half  west, 
distant  one  and  a  half  miles.  If  it  was  low  water  .sand-baidis  showed  in  dilferent 
directions,  and  the  chaiuiels  were  tolerably  well  marked  thereby. 

The  invariable  jtractice  of  vessels  enteriu};  was  to  .seek  out  the  channel  from 
the  mast-head.  In  calm  weather  the  channels  must  be  known,  or  a  pilot  employed 
if  one  is  to  be  found.  There  are  buoys  to  mark  the  channels,  but  their  positions 
are  properly  chan;ved  by  <^Iu'  lifiht-lnuise  authorities  to  suit  the  chanj;-es  of  the 
channels,  .so  that  no  directions  can  be  {>fiven  about  them. 

The  north  bar  bore  northwest  by  north  two-thirds  nortli  from  the  south  bar, 
distant  live  miles. 

The  ^Middle  t>aiuls  lay  between  the  two  channels.  The  southern  tail  was 
southwest  oiH'  and  three  (piarters  miles  from  Leadbetter  Point,  ran  northwest  by 
north  two-thirds  n*)rth  for  two  and  one-(iuarter  miles,  then  north-northeast  two 
and  a  quarter  jniles.  and  «>ast  ncHtheast  one  and  a  half  miles,  with  an  average 
width  ot  one  and  a  quarter  miles.  One  mile  cmtside  of  it  soundinjis  are  found  in 
sevei   tii<homs. 

This  bay,  as  its  name  imjdies,  is  so  full  of  shoals  that  at  low  tides  alxuit  one- 
half  of  its  area  is  laid  bare,  (lood  but  narrow  chainiels  are  found  throu<;hout  its 
extent,  but  no  direction  can  be  jiivt'ii  tor  running  them.  AVithout  a  knowledj-e  of 
them,  or  w  ithout  a  i)ilot,  follow  them  only  at  low  water.  The  currents  then  run 
w  ith  {ii'cat  velocity,  and  it  is  very  dilUcult  and  frequently  impossible  to  keep  a 
eour.se  afiainst  them.  The  arm  of  the  bay  stretching,'  s(»uthward  towaid  IJaker's 
Bay  is  lifteen  miles  hnij;'  from  Leadbetter  I'oint,  with  an  averaf-'e  width  of 
not  less  than  three  and  one-hulf  niih's,  whilst  the  upjier  jtortion  stretches  to  the 
northeast  for  nine  miles  to  the  north  of  the  AVhil-a-i)aii  River,  reckoning  from  iho 
middle  of  tlie  lin«\|OMiinfi-  Cai)e  Shoahvater  and  Leadbetter  Point. 

The  principal  .stream  enijttying  into  the  bay  is  the  V.hil  a-]»ah,  at   its  nor)') 
cast  part.     At  about  nine  mdes  from  Cape  Shoahvater  it  is  less  thai>  a  quarter  >f 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASniXGTON  TJ^RHITOJIY. 


1(35 


a  milo  wide,  with  low,  swampy  banks  and  stoop  blufls  on  oaoli  side  about  a  inil«^ 
and  a  liaira])iirt. 

Tlio  niontli  of  tho  I'abix,  oi'  Copabix,  lios  five  niilos  northeast  lialf  oast 
from  Loadbottor  I'oint.  It  is  half  a  uuUt  wido  at  its  mouth,  (•onTra<'ts  v(My  niuoh 
in  two  niih'S,  and  is  b(U'dered  by  niarslios,  with  numerous  sbios  running  through 
tliom. 

Tlio  Nasal  ontors  about  olovon  milos  south  from  tlio  Pabix,  and  abroast  of  tho 
nnddl(>  of  Lonj,'  Island.  It  has  ovor  twonty  foot  wator  at  its  mouth,  with  bluft' 
banks  for  sonic  distanoo,  until  it  bo<j[iiis  to  oxjiand,  when  it  is  bonlorod  by  tlats. 

Sovoral  sticanis  o]K'n  from  tho  north  sido  of  tin*  bay.  Ono  of  tiioso,  tho  Noco- 
manohi',  nc.ir  tlio  Whil-apah,  has  six  foot  in  the  main  channol,  and  shows  one  and 
ono-half  milos  wido  at  his'h  tide. 

There  are  three  islands  in  the  bay.  Pino  Island,  about  ono  and  a  half  miles 
northwest  by  noith  oil"  the  mouth  of  the  Palux,  is  a  small  sand  islet  of  only  four  or 
five  aoros  in  ex'^^iit,  and  oeoupied  by  oyslormon.  It  is  near  the  ohannol  and 
ystor  bods  whioh  strot<di  ihv  a  ooui)le  of  miles  to  the  north-northeast  of  it.  The 
Indian  name  of  this  island  is  Nass-too.  The  north  end  of  Lonjj:  Island  is  oif>ht 
milos  from  liOadbottor  Point.  This  island  runs  irrojiularly  about  southeast  for  six 
miles,  and  has  an  aveiajic  widtli  of  ono  and  a  half  miles.  It  is  eovered  with  a 
dense  forest  of  lir  and  under};Towth.  Oiu^  milo  south-southeast  of  Loiifj  Island  is 
a  very  small  ish't  oallod  Ivoiiiid  Island,  of  only  a  few  aoros  in  extent,  eovon-d  with 
Avood  and  bushes.  The  shores  of  the  bay,  oxoojit  on  the  j)oiiinsn!a,  are  mostly 
(!om]iosod  of  low,  perpendicular  clitVs  of  a  sandy  clay,  in  which  are  Virata  of  recent 
fossil  shells  and  tho  renmins  of  trees.  Whore  the  faces  of  tho  olilfs  are  not  washed 
by  the  waters  of  the  bay,  they  slope  fi'ontly,  and  have  a  small  {>rassy  shore  at  their 
base. 

No'.ilioast  throo-quartors  north,  distant  six  milos  from  Loadbottor  Point, 
is  a  sli.iii',  narrow  clitf,  sixty  foot  hiyli,  makiii<;'  out  into  tho  bay,  which  is  woai'iiig 
it :  u  »>  :;  ;';  has  exposed  many  larj;,e  basaltic  bouUb'rs.  No  other  place  on  the 
ba,   pnsc;jt^hisgoolop:iral  feature. 

TUv  rfiiiisula  is  a  b»ng,  tlat,  marshy,  and  sandy  ])lain,  elevated  but  a  few  foot 
above  v-xb  itvol  of  tho  sea,  and  covered,  like  the  entire  surface  of  this  country, 
Av "^  a  <  'Use  i^nowth  of  ji'iyantic  forest  trees,  piincipall,-  s])ruoe,  lir,  and  cedar, 
witii  a  fow  si»ecimeiis  of  maple,  ash,  and  black  abler.  The.  spruce  frofiuontly 
attains  a  diac     <  i  of  eight  feet.     The  Indian  naii'o  of  tb'.  peninsida  is  Teo-ehoots. 

The  shoals  ■<  covered  with  shell  fish,  among  which  tho  oyster  is  tho  most 
abundant,  ami  the  ])rinoipal  arti('le  of  exi)ort.  They  are  small,  and  have  a  oop- 
peiv  taste.  Codfish  and  halibut  al>ound  ;  sturgeon,  sai<l  to  be  of  good  quality,  are 
lik'io  nd  salmon  of  several  varieties  and  excellent  flavor  exist  in  infinite  num- 
Ixav-.  In  spring  vast  shoals  of  small  herring  enter  the  bay.  In  winter  wild  fowl 
are  iunumorablo,  but  those  have  l)oen  made  shy  by  the  bail  shooting  of  the 
Indians.  Hlack  and  white  swan,  goose,  mallards,  canvas-backs,  vS:c.,  always 
ivward  the  oxi>erieneed  sportsman. 


166 


COAST  riLOT  OP  WASHINGTON  TEEEITORY. 


This  1  ay  w;is  discoverod,  bnt  not  entered,  by  Lieutenant  John  ^feares  Jnly  5, 
17.SS,  in  the  Felice,  when  proceeding  in  search  of  the  Kio  de  San  lloquo  of 
lleceta. 

It  is  ap'^^erted  by  settlers  here  that  boats,  canors,  &c.,  which  have  broken 
adrift  and  gone  out  of  the  bay,  have  in  every  instance  been  found  on  the  beach 
north  of  the  entrance,  and  generally  between  it  and  Gray's  Harbor. 

From  Cape  Slioalwatcr  to  Point  Hanson,  the  southern  side  of  the  entrance  to 
Gray's  Ilarl'or,  the  distance  is  thirteen  and  a  half  miles,  and  the  hard  ocean 
sand-bench  furnishes  an  excellent  road  that  can  be  traveled  at  half  tide  by 
wagons.  The  slightly  elevated  sandy  bank  is  level,  covered  with  coarse  grass,  and 
free  from  timber  for  nearly  half  a  mile  back  and  to  within  two  miles  of  the  harbor. 
Back  of  this  and  parallel  with  the  coast  is  a  cranberry  meadow  six  miles  in  length, 
and  separated  by  a  narrow  belt  of  scrubby  fir.  This  meadow  is  drained  by  two 
small  rivulets  forcing  their  way  thro!  ,~  •'•  sand  to  the  ocean.  San  Francisco  is 
the  market  for  the  cranberries,  whicu  gathered  by  Indians  and  carried  to 

Slioalwatcr  Bay  and  Gray's  Harbor.  LauU  otter  and  beaver  have  their  homes 
around  the  meadows  and  small  streams. 


gray's  iiabbor. 

The  entrance  to  the  bay  is  formed  by  Point  Hanson  on  the  south,  and  tiie 
southern  point  of  Eld  Island  on  the  north.  The  northern  end  of  this  island  is 
connected  with  the  outer  part  of  Point  Brown  at  low  water,  but  at  high  tide  the 
beachet^  are  one-quarter  of  a  mile  apart.  The  south  end  of  the  island  lies  north- 
west by  west  one-quarter  Avest  one  and  five-eighths  miles  from  Point  Hanson ;  its 
length  is  one  and  three-fourths  miles,  and  direction  northwest  half  west,  with  a 
breadth  of  two  to  four  hundred  yards.  Half-way  between  I'oint  Hanson  and  the 
islaiul  lies  the  northeast  end  of  a  shoal  or  middk  '.rouiul,  bare  at  low  water,  and 
stretchiug  south  by  west  three-eighths  west  for  one  and  three-quarters  miles,  with 
an  average  breadth  of  three-eighths  of  a  mile.  Between  the  northeast  end  of  this 
shoal  and  the  south  end  of  Eld  Island  passes  the  channel,  with  a  width  of  less 
than  five-eighths  of  a  mile,  and  a  depth  of  sixteen  fatluMus.  In  June  1807,  the 
channel  thence  ran  nearly  southwest  for  two  and  three-quarters  miles  to  the  bar, 
which  had  twenty-five  feet  of  water,  and  lay  west  by  south  one-quarter  south 
three  and  a  half  ndles  from  the  Fort  Chehalis  flagstaff,  half  a  mile  south  of  the 
extremity  of  Point  Hanson,  and  southwest  half  south  two  and  three-quarters  miles 
from  the  south  point  of  Eld  Island.  At  that  time  the  channel  was  straight  and 
marked  by  buoys.  The  buoy  (  tside  the  bar  was  in  thirty-nine  feet  of  water,  and 
the  first  one  inside  the  bar  in  tliirty  feet  of  water,  bearing  northeast  half  east  one 
and  a  ([uarter  miles  from  the  former.  The  eighteenfathom  line  was  half  a  mile 
southward  of  the  lino  of  buoys  and  parallel  with  it.  The  outer  buoy  was  west  by 
south  three-quarters  sontli,  three  and  seven-eighths  miles  from  Fort  Chehalis  Hag- 
stall'.  The  course  inside  these  buoys  was  northeast  half  east  to  the  narniwest 
part  of  the  ciiannel,  passing  a  buoy  on  tlie  port  Innul  about  half  a  mile  south  ot 


COAST  PILOT  or  WASHINGTON  TEEllITOEY.  167 

Eld  Island,  in  eighteen  feet  of  water.  Inside  Eld  Island  a  fourth  buoy,  in 
eighteen  feet  of  water,  marked  the  southeast  part  of  shoal  otf  the  island,  and  one 
aiul  a  quarter  miles  east  by  north  half  north  from  this  buoy  was  a  fifth  buoy  on  the 
edge  of  the  south  shoals,  in  eighteen  feet  water.  But  the  positions  of  the  buoys 
marking  the  entrance  are  changed  by  the  light-house  authorities  to  corresi)oud  to 
the  changes  of  the  bar  and  channel. 

It  is  unsafe  to  attempt  entering  this  bay  w  Ithout  a  pilot. 

The  secondary  astronomical  station  of  the  United  States  Coast  Survey  is  on 
the  extremity  of  the  fast  land  of  Point  Hanson,  within  ten  feet  of  the  marsh. 
From  it  the  geographical  position  of  Fort  Chehalis  llaj-staff  has  been  determined, 
as  follows : 

L^vtitude 4G  53  43.7  north. 

Longitude 12-4  00  53.8  west. 

Or,  in  time 8  10  27.6 

TliC  computed  magnetic  variation  for  December  1862,  is  20°  53'  east,  with  an 
increase  of  1'  annually. 

Ten  miles  southwest  three-quarters  west  from  Point  Hanson  Tebeukolf  gives 
soundings  in  sixteen  fathoms,  and  has  a  line  of  soundings  of  the  same  depth  down 
the  coast  to  a  i)osition  seven  miles  southwest  three-quarters  west  from  Capo 
Shoalwater.  Seventeen  miles  west  from  Point  Hanson  he  has  a  sounding  in  forty- 
three  fathoms. 

Tides. — The  corrected  establis'iment  or  mean  interval  between  the  time  of  the 
moon's  transit  and  the  time  of  liigh  water  is  12/i.  12m.,  and  the  diflerence  between 
the  greatest  and  least  intervals  is  Ih.  52/h.  The  mean  '-ise  and  fall  of  tides  is 
approximately  5.S  feet.  The  average  dift'erence  in  height  of  the  morning  and  after- 
noon tides  of  the  same  day  is  1.5  feet  for  high  water  and  2.7  feet  for  low  water ; 
and  when  the  moon's  declination  is  gi'eatest  these  tigiu-es  are,  res^iectively,  2.2  feet 
and  4.1  feet.  The  average  difference  in  height  between  the  higher  high  and  lower 
low  tides  of  the  same  day  is  8.0  feet ;  and  when  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest, 
9.0  feet. 

The  higher  high  tide  iu  twenty-four  hours  occurs  about  11/*.  39)h.  after  the 
moon's  upper  transit,  (southing,)  wheu  the  declination  is  north,  and  about  ilm. 
befcre  that  ti'ansit  wheu  the  declination  is  south.  The  lowest  low  water  occurs 
about  seven  hours  after  the  highest  high  water. 

The  following  accounts  of  the  dilferent  examiiuitions  of  the  Gray's  Harbor 
entrance  exhibit  the  marked  changes  which  it  has  undergone : 

At  the  time  of  Whidbey's  survey,  under  the  orders  of  Vancouver,  in  17!)2,  a 
bar  existed  off  the  entrance,  having  the  following  position :  From  Point  Hanson, 
southwest  by  west  half  west,  three  and  a  half  miles  distant,  and  from  Point 
IJrown,  southwest  by  south  one-quarter  south,  four  miles  distant.  He  does  not  give 
the  depth  of  water  on  the  bar  in  his  chart,  but  in  the  narrative  states  it  to  be 
three  fathoms.    From  this  bar  the  channel  was  a  mile  wide,  and  straight  to  the 


'  .1 

■  v;  ,1. 

I 


168 


COAST  riLOT  OF  AV.VSIIJMGTON  TERKITOKY. 


eutranoe  betwoon  the  points,  was  woU  inarkod  by  the  broiikors,  and  liad  tVoiu  four 
to  ten  fathoiiis  in  it  until  nearly  abreast  of  the  i>oint>.  where  it  was  contracted  to 
half  a  mile,  and  the  depf'  ::!creased  to  fourteen  fatlioins.  Then  it  opened  sud- 
denly to  both  points,  with  from  three  to  six  fatlutms  between  them.  The  course 
in,  over  the  bar  and  throuj^h  niidchannel,  was  northeast  one-quarter  noith  for  three 
ami  a  (piurter  miles  to  between  the  points,  with  two  low  sand  islands  in  ranjje  on 
the  eourst',  und  six  and  a  half  nules  fr«)m  the  bar.  A  narrow  channel  existed  on 
either  side  of  these  islands  towards  theChehalis;  the  southern  channel  having 
from  three  to  four  fathoms,  and  that  on  the  north  side  live  or  six. 

Whidbey  believed  the  bar  to  be  shifting,  there  being  a  very  ap])arent  differ- 
ence iu  the  channel  between  the  times  of  his  arrival  and  departure,  when  it 
seemed  to  be  wider  and  shoaler.  A  drj'  sand  bank  which  lay  bare  near  their 
anchorage  on  the  fust  evening,  on  the  north  side  of  the  channel,  was,  at  his 
departure,  entirely  washed  away  by  the  violence  of  the  sea,  which  had  broken 
incessantly  upon  the  shoals  and  bar. 

In  the  indentation  southeast  of  Point  Hanson  lay  an  island  with  a  channel  on 
either  side,  but  that  on  tlie  west  was  the  better.  Both  led  to  the  mouth  of  a  small 
stream  coming  in  from  the  east,  lie  also  gives  a  four-fathom  channel  on  the  east 
side  of  Point  Brown  Peninsula,  and  surveyed  it  two  miles  up. 

In  18-11,  in  the  survey  by  the  United  States  exploring  expedition,  we  find  no 
island  in  the  middle  of  the  bay,  nor  any  e."st  of  Point  Ilanson,  but  a  large  one  one 
and  three-quarters  miles  long  by  half  a  mile  wide  in  the  middle  of  the  entrance, 
and  couuected  by  a  shoal  w  ith  Point  Brown,  while  the  channel  ran  between  the 
island  and  the  southern  point.  The  bar  bore  southwest  two  and  a  <piarter  miles 
from  Point  Brown,  ami  west  two  and  a  'lalf  miles  from  J'oint  Hanson,' with  a 
depth  of  about  three  fathoms.  This  posititm  show  s  that  the  bar  had  moved  nortli 
hy  east  no  less  than  two  miles.  According  to  that  survey,  the  course  for  crossing 
the  bar  was  to  bring  Point  Hanson  to  bear  east  and  run  for  it,  the  channel  being 
straight. 

From  a  study  of  the  map  of  that  survey  we  are  satisfied  that  the  soundings 
were  carriiid  outward  to  the  inner  edge  of  the  bar,  and  not  across  it,  the  work 
being  probably  stopped  by  the  breakers. 

In  18(50  the  surveying  brig  Fauntleroy,  drawing  ten  feet  of  water,  lay  off  the 
bar  several  days,  the  heavy  breakers  along  the  whole  shoal  allowing  no  clue  to 
the  bar,  and  the  depth  of  water  upon  it  being  unknown.  At  a  comparatively 
smooth  time  the  bar  was  sounded  with  a  boat  and  the  vessel  followed,  crossing  on 
the  last  quarter  of  the  ebb  with  two  and  a  half  fathoms.  In  1861  the  entrance 
was  reported  tolerably  good,  and  comparing  favorably  with  the  other  bar  harbors 
north  of  San  Francisco.  In  June  1802  the  channel  Avas  not  straight,  but  the  sea- 
ward end  curved  to  the  northward  of  west.  The  bar  had  sixteen  feet  of  water 
upon  it,  and  was  five  hundred  and  fifty  yards  across  between  the  outer  and  inner 
three-fathom  lines.  From  Fort  Chehalis  tlag-stalf  it  bore  west  three-quarters 
north,  distant  four  and  a  third  miles ;  from  the  south  end  of  Eld  Island  west  by 


■^i. 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASHlNCiTON  TEKKITOKY. 


101) 


soiitli  oiu'i'iglitli  south,  distant  two  and  tliree-qiiaitors  miles;  from  Point  Brown, 
seen  over  HUl  Isiand,  southwest  lialf  west;  and  from  Point  Hanson,  directly  west. 

In  ISCO,  while  the  United  States  surveying-  vessel  was  lyinj;-  olf  the  bar,  a  cur- 
rent running-  to  the  northward,  at  the  rate  of  one  and  a  half  mile  per  hour,  was 
distinctly  noticed.  Immediately  olf  the  harbor  this  current  strikes  the  ebb  current 
of  the  bay,  and  detiects  the  nniss  of  water  to  the  northward.  With  the  tlood  cur- 
rent the  mass  of  water  sets  over  the  south  sands.  It  is  estinnited  that  the  off- 
shore current  runs  across  the  bar  at  an  averajte  rate  of  three  miles. 

The  Indians  use  a  small  swash  channel  under  Point  lirown,  to  avoid  crossing 
the  bar. 

The  peninsuhi  terminated  by  Point  Hanson  is  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
in  breadth  and  three  and  a  half  miles  lonji,  and  covered  with  fir  to  within  half  a 
mile  of  the  point,  which  is  a  low  sand  spit  embraciuf^  a  small  marsh.  The  general 
direction  of  the  ]>eninsula  is  northwest,  and  inside  of  it  lies  South  Bay,  with  a  width 
of  half  a  mile,  atlbrdinff  the  safest,  and,  in  fact,  the  only  safe  anchorage  near  the 
entrance.  More  than  half  of  this  bay  is  occui)ied  by  nuul  tiats.  To  secure  the 
best  position  heie,  bring  the  northernmost  trees  on  I'oint  Hanson  to  bear  south 
71^  west,  distant  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  and  au(;hor  in  the  channel  in  three  and 
a  half  fathoms.  This  jjosition  places  the  vessel  out  of  the  intiuence  of  the  south 
channel  running  to  the  Chehalis. 

The  anchorage  under  Point  Brown  is  not  only  uucomfoitable  but  unsafe  to  a 
vessel  without  heavy  ground  tackle.  At  this  point  there  is  no  prote<'tion  against 
the  full  sweep  of  the  lu'avy  sununer  winds,  which,  blowing  at  times  counter  to  the 
strong  currents  in  the  bay,  cause  a  very  disagreeable  short  sea.  Another  circum- 
stance tends  to  render  this  anchorage  unsafe:  between  Point  Hanson  and  Kid 
Island  lies  the  middle  shoal,  which,  l»eing  bare  at  low  watei',  confines  the  waters 
ti>  a  narrow  regular  channel;  but  when  the  tide  rises  sutficiently  to  cover  this 
shoal  the  confiicting  currents  cause  a  heavy  overfall,  esjK'cially  (Ui  the  large  tides, 
strong  enough  to  tear  a  vessel  from  her  anchors.  This  hai)pened  to  the  surveying 
brig  in  May  ISCiO. 

The  peniusida,  terminated  by  Point  Brown,  is  about  a  mile  in  breadth  and 
fou'  nd  a  half  miles  long;  its  general  direction  is  southeast  by  south.  The  bay 
shore  is  covered  with  fir.  The  outer  is  the  shore  commenceuu'nt  of  a  sand  waste, 
stretching  towards  the  Copalis  Kiver.  Between  the  timber  and  this  waste  is  a 
large  pond  or  lagoon,  and  outside  of  that  the  sand  is  covered  with  coarse  beach 
grass  and  stunted  lupin  bushes,  and  cut  up  Avith  the  tracks  of  bears,  cougars, 
wolves,  elk,  &c.  From  the  north  eml  of  l-^ld  Islaiul  a  body  of  water  stretches  into 
the  sand  waste  parallel  and  near  the  ocean  beach  for  about  a  mile.  Close  luiiler 
the  bay  shore  (»f  this  peniusida  runs  a  narrow  crooked  channel,  which  Whidbey 
surveyed  for  two  miles,  and  in  which  he  gives  four  fathoms. 

From  Point  Hanson  the  mouth  of  the  Chehalis  River  bears  nintheast  five- 
eighths  east,  distant  twelve  miles;  and  this  course  is  the  general  direction  of  the 


^^^5^ 


■■jF 

m 


170 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WABIIINCJTON  THKIUTORY. 


soutlioast  side  of  tlie  bay,  except  the  indentation  fonninf;  South  Bay.  Tlie  first 
bliifV  inside  the  point  is  Stoarns,*  bearing,'  nortlieast  by  east,  and  distant  five  and  a 
half  miles.  Around  the  soutlnvest  side  of  tliis  bluff  «'onies  .Tohn's  lliver.  Within 
.1  mile  and  a  half  of  the  mouth  of  the  Chehalia  the  Xeuskah'l  enters,  cominy  from 
the  s(mtheast. 

From  Point  Brown,  Point  Newt  lies  north  3!)o  east,  distant  four  and  three- 
quarters  miles,  and  having  oft"  it  two  rocks,  now  called  Ned's  llocks,  and  marked 
on  AVhidbey's  (ihart. 

Bmekenridffe  Bluff*  commences  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  east  of  Point 
New,  and  extends  three  miles  eastward  to  the  low  land  bordering  the  Iloquiamts 
lliver.  From  Point  New  the  shore-liiui  runs  nearly  straight  to  the  Chehalis,  dis- 
tant eight  miles,  and  the  point  of  Stearns  Bluft'  lies  south  43°  east,  distant  four 
and  a  (piarter  miles. 

To  the  north-northwest  of  the  line  Joining  Points  New  and  Brown  lies  North 
Bay,  consisting  of  an  imnieiise  mud  flat,  bare  at  low  water,  and  having  an  area  of 
twenty-two  square  miles.  At  the  head  of  it  lies  Saddle  llill.  In  the  stretch  of 
four  miles  northwest  of  Point  New  are  three  small  streams,  called  the  Typso,  Chi- 
nois,  and  Ilumtolapy,  emptying  into  North  Bay.  They  work  narrow  crooked 
channels  through  the  nuid  flats,  but  at  low  water  there  is  not  sutticient  depth  to 
carry  a  whaleboat  through  them. 

By  measurement  we  find  that  more  than  nine-tenths  of  Gray's  Harbor  is  bai'e 
at  low  Avater.  Inside  of  the  entrance  the  area  of  the  surface  of  the  water,  bounded 
by  the  flats,  bare  at  low  tide,  is  only  four  and  a  half  square  miles.  This  will  give 
a  fair  idea  of  the  extent  of  the  harbor.  Through  the  flats  lying  between  this 
available  space  and  the  Chehalis  run  two  channels.  The  northern  commences  at 
a  i)oint  two  miles  east-northeast  from  Point  Brown,  is  the  only  available  one,  and 
would  require  buoying  out  for  its  entire  length.  F(H"  about  six  mih^s,  it  is  three- 
eighths  of  a  mile  wide,  with  a  depth  of  four  fathoms.  The  south  channel  com- 
mences just  inside  Point  IlauHon,  and  is  very  contracted  and  shallow.  The  flats 
are  so  extensive,  aftd  the  uuid  so  soft  in  places,  that  it  is  inq)ossible  to  reach  the 
shore,  except  at  high  tides.  This  fact  has  retarded  the  development  of  the  trade 
in  lumber,  although  the  shores  are  heavily  tind)ered. 

The  trade  of  the  bay  is  in  carrying  the  supjilies  needed  by  a  f(^w  settlers,  and 
by  the  small  military  post  on  the  Chehalis.  Dimng  seven  months  in  1800,  this 
reached  one  huiulred  and  twenty-flve  tons. 

In  August  18G-1:  the  United  States  Iiulian  agent  reported  the  discovery  of 
gold  at  Chehalis  Point. 

The  ChehaJin  Ixirer  has  been  navigated  by  a  small  steamboat  for  twenty  mil(>s, 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Latsop,  which  (;omes  from  the  northward.  This  is  the  head 
of  ti(h>-wif'.'r;  but  enterprise  would   rench'r  the  river  navigable  much   higher. 


"Niiinptl  by  the  Uniti'd  States  exploring  expedition,  lrt41. 
t  Named  by  Wliidbey  in  I'M. 


m 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TKIIKITOKY. 


171 


Boats  have  come  from  tlie  bend  of  the  Chehalis,  at  the  mouth  of  tlie  Skookuiu- 
ehuck,  near  the  road  i>a.s.siii}>-  from  the  Cowlitz  Itiver  to  ru^jct  Souiiil.  Tlie  coun- 
try behind  the  bay  ai)iR'ar.s  low  and  tlat,  and  well  watered  by  the  Cholialis  and 
tributaries,  which  drain  a  section  well  timbered,  and  dotted  with  many  small 
prairies  aud  bottom  lands. 

In  the  winter  of  lS52-'ij;{,  the  brig  Willinuuitic  was  driven  ashore  ujioii  Eld 
Island,  having  mistaken  this  for  Shoalwater  Bay.  Aftej-  vainly  attempting  to 
launch  her  toward  the  sea,  she  was  dragged  across  the  island,  and  launched  on 
the  bay  side.  Then  the  island  was  a  mere  bank  of  sjxiul,  bare  at  all  ti(U's,  and 
covered  with  logs  and  drift-wood. 

The  bay  was  discovered  by  Gray  in  :\Iay  1702,  and  named  IJulfineh  Harbor, 
after  oiu^  of  the  owners  of  his  vessel.     He  placed  it  in  latitude  4(io  r>H'  north. 

It  was  surveyed  by  Lieutenant  Whidbey,  in  the  store-ship  Da'dalus,  October 
1702,  under  the  direction  of  Vancouver.  He  first  sent  in  his  boats,  and  then 
crossed  the  l)ar  in  three  fathoms,  with  the  ebb  current  running  so  strong  that, 
although  the  .^hip  was  making  n(>arly  five  knots  an  liour,  litth;  actual  ])rogi-ess was 
made.  He  applied  the  present  name,  Gray  Harl)or,  in  compliment  to  its  discov- 
erer. On  sonu)  old  maps  we  have  found  it  called  Whidbey's  Harbor.  He  named 
Point  Hanson  after  the  commander  of  the  Da'dalus,  and  the  northern  point  he 
called  Point  Brown,  placing  it  in  latitude  40^  ')\)y  north. 

The  southern  point  was  called  Point  Chickeeles  by  the  United  States  explor- 
ing expedition  in  1841,  and  placed  in  latitude  iCfi  i55'  30" ;  aud  the  same  name  was 
applied  to  the  river. 

In  the  first  maps  of  the  Coast  Survey  the  southern  point  is  termed  Point  Har- 
rison—a  clerical  error.  Among  the  few  settlers  in  this  region  it  is  called  Point 
Armstrong. 

The  name  of  the  river  is  derived  from  the  Indian  tribe  inhabiting  the  bay  and 
river.    They  pronounce  it  Tche-havlis  or  Tsi-hie-lis,  signifying  sand. 

For  January  ISoO  the  line  of  equal  magnetic  variation  of  21°  east  crosses  the 
coast  line  in  latitude  47°  08',  and  in  latitude  40°  58'  it  crosses  the  125th  degree 
of  longitude.    This  line  moves  annually  a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  southward. 


COPALIS  RIVER. 

We  know  nothing  of  this  stream  except  from  settlers  wlio  have  passed  it  in 
traveling  along  the  shore. 

From  Point  Brown  the  shore-line  trends  about  north-northwest  for  ten  miles 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Copalis.  The  barren  waste  of  Point  Brown  continues  along 
this  shore,  commencing  with  a  breadth  of  over  one  mile,  stretching  from  the  ocean 
to  a  dense  forest  of  lir,  and  growing  narrower  as  it  approaches  the  Copalis,  where 
the  timber  comes  to  the  water's  edge. 

This  stream  is  about  one  hundred  yards  wide,  but  the  mouth  is  almost  closed 
by  a  1)ar.    Upon  its  banks  reside  the  Copalis  tribe  of  Indians,  froni  whom  the  river 


t\ 


172 


COAST  TTLOT  OF  WASniNC.TON  TERKITOliY. 


(lorivos  it;'*  iiiuii(\  •/' o  all  tlio  stroiiins  on  this  coast,  it  abounds  in  salmon,  but 
those  cauffht  hen'  aro  colcbiatod  for  their  richness  of  flavor.  Their  {•eiu'ral 
appearauj'e  is  similar  to  those  of  the  Columbia  Ifivor,  but  this  variety  rarely 
exceeds  two  feet  in  lenjith.    They  weijuh  troni  live  to  ten  pounds. 

In  or  about  October,  lS."ii,  there  was  discovered,  one  mile  north  of  the  Copalis, 
the  whole  stern  iVame  of  the  pro])elIer  (ieneral  Warren,  whicli  had  i>een  wrecked  on 
(^Matsop  si>it,  at  the  nu)uth  of  the  Columoia  IJiver,  more  than  two  years  previously, 
having;'  thus  been  carried  by  currents  at  least  sixty  nules  from  its  orif;inal  ])osition. 
When  the  hyilroj;raphic  survey  of  the  entrance  to  the  Columbia  was  made  by  the 
Coast  Survey  parties,  in  1S.")U,  this  wreck  was  found,  and  its  position  determined. 
From  Cape  J)isappointment  it  bore  southeast  by  east  abm)st  four  miles  distant, 
and  was  consequently  little  more  than  a  mile  from  I'oint  Adams.  Tt  then  rested 
on  the  iu)rtli  ed^e  of  the  Clatsop  spit.  This  shows  a  direction  of  the  current,  corrob- 
oratiuf^'  Vanccmver's  account  when  anchored  oft"  Destruction  Island,  and  agreeing 
with  the  general  experience. 

Otf  the  coast  of  Washington  Territory,  La  IYtouso  says  "the  currents  on  this 
part  of  the  coast  are  extremely  violent;  wc  fell  in  with  eddies  wlrcli  did  not  sutler 
the  8hii>  to  obey  her  helm  with  a  three-knot  gale,  live  leagues  fr«>m  land." 

POINT   GKENVILLE. 

From  the  Copalis  to  this  point  the  shore  runs  northwest  half  uorth  about 
sixteen  miles,  and  continues  low,  nearly  straight,  and  bordered  by  sand  beach, 
which  changes  to  sliingle,  disposed  in  long  rows  parallel  to  the  coast.  These  ridges 
of  shingle  dam  the  mouths  of  many  small  streams,  and  form  ponds,  abounding  in 
trout,  and  well  stocked  with  beaver  and  otter,  according  to  the  accounts  of  the 
Indians.  The  high  land  also  approa<'hes  much  nearer  the  beach,  and  forms  saml- 
stone  dilfs,  with  rocky  ledges  pr(»je(;ting  into  the  ocean. 

Point  Grenville  is  a  blulf,  rocky  promontory,  streteliing  westward  about  a  mile, 
and  then  southward  about  a  quarter,  forming  a  very  contracted  and  exposed  road- 
stead. The  three-fathom  ciuve  extends  half  a  mile  from  the  beach,  compelling 
vessels,  except  of  veiy  light  draught,  to  anchor  so  far  out  that  the  point  and  the 
rocks  oft'  it  aft'oid  but  little  protection  from  the  northwest  winds.  It  is  useless 
dnrilig  the  winter  months.  The  point  has  high  hills  lying  behind  it,  and  many 
rocks  iuunediately  oft"  it.  Two  of  these,  about  seventy-live  feet  high,  lie  east  by 
south,  four  hundred  yards  distant;  another  lies  southwest  three-quarters  south, 
lialf  a  mile  distant.  This,  we  believe,  is  the  one  that  shows  a  large  perforation 
through  it  when  viewed  from  the  southeast  or  northwest.  It  has  live  and  six 
fathoms  all  around  it.  Others  stretch  along  the  coast  to  the  northwest,  one  of 
them  showing  from  the  south  as  a  leg-of-nuitton  sail.  The  bluff  itself  is  composed 
of  line  sandstone,  is  very  st«'ep,  and  may  be  ascended  by  a  difticult  frail,  which  is 
used  by  the  Inciians.  It  is  said  to  be  a  great  resort  for  sea-otters,  whicli  are  luuited 
by  the  natives. 


i=.l. 


salmon,  but 
'licir  jif'iicral 
iiiicty  rarely 

the  Copalis, 
1  wrcckt'd  on 
"I  provioufsly, 
iial  i)()sitioii. 
iiiado  hy  fho 
lU'h'niiiiicd. 
ilcs  (listaiif, 

tboii  rested 
iviit,  cori-oh- 
ihI  agreeing 

cuts  on  tliis 
d  not  sillier 
1.'' 


orth  about 
find  beaeli, 
iiesc  ridoes 
ouudiny  in 
Hits  of  tlic 
Ji'ins  sand- 


out  a  mile, 
osed  road- 
!ompelling 
nt  and  tbe 
is  useless 
md  many 
0  east  by 
■rs  soutli, 
L'rforatiou 
i  and  six 
st,  one  of 
composed 
wliich  is 
■e  hunted 


I 

m 


m 


! 


N.W  llniii|i:issi  |l>  iiiil<'s 


Si.il   11...  k 


I'l    Cl.'livillr 


Di'Slnicliiiii  1.    N.W   iriiiii|ii\.ss  !  Ip  null 


.■mem 


msmmmmm 


! 


{   ^ 


M 


I 
5 


Pt.CrnMivillp 


riim  I.    N,  W  f  l\nii|i;t,ss  [    i  inll* 


A 


f<%fn.--.uEgr?. 


COAST  riLOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TEKRITOIIY.  173 

Its  approximate  goograpliioal  position  is : 

Latitudo 47  20  north. 

Longituae 1-1  14  ^vest. 

'  h.  m.    «. 

Or,  in  time ^  K'  ^56 

From  Capp  Disappointment  liglit  it  bears  nortlnvest  by  north  half  north,  distant 
sixty-two  miles,  and  from  the  cape  soundings  may  be  had  in  from  eight  to  liftoen 
fathoms,  three  or  i'our  miles  from  the  shore. 

West  by  north,  distant  sixteen  miles  from  Po'nt  Grenville,  avo  discovered,  in 
•Tuno,  185."»,  a  bank  having  fifteen  fathoms  upon  it,  Avith  very  soft  mud  bottom;  at 
twenty-one  miles  distance,  seventeen  fathoms;  and  at  twenty-nine  miles,  thirty-six 
fathoms;  and  three  miles  south -southeast  of  the  first  position  v,e  struek  sixteen 
and  a  half  fathoms,  with  the  same  bottom,  in  all  the  soundings;  but  had  not  time 
to  make  an  extended  examination.  In  April  IS.'^  we  found  forty-five  fathoms  in 
latitude  HP  54/  north,  longitude  125°  0;V  -west,  being  sixteen  miles  broad  off"  shore. 
The  soundings  of  sevenieen,  eighteen,  and  niTieteen  fathoms,  one  mile  from  shore, 
•would  .lulieate  a  greater  depth  than  we  obtained.  Yaucouver  has  fifty  fathoms 
inside  of  our  first  soundings. 

Twenty  miles  southwest  of  Point  Grenville,  Tebenkoff  has  a  current  running 
to  the  northwest. 

Tliis  point  is  said  to  be  the  Punta  de  :Mf;-ti:es  of  Ilece  and  Bodega,  because 
in  latitud  IT^  20'  seven  of  the  crew  of  Bodega's  vessel,  the  Senora,  were  massacred 
by  the  natives. 

It  reeei\e(l  its  present  name  in  1702,  from  Vancouver,  who  placed  it  in  latitudo 
47°  22',  and  describes  as  lying  off  it  "three  rocky  islets,  one  of  which,  like  that  at 
Cape  Lookout,  is  perforated." 

North  of  (Iremiile  to  Cape  Flattery  the  shore  is  l)ohl  and  rocky,  with  ocea- 
sioual  short  reaches  of  sand  beach.  The  timber  comes  down  to  the  water;  mode- 
rat«"ly  high  hills  approach  the  coast,  through  AvhicHi  empty  numerous  snndl  streams, 
whilst  the  irn'gular  Olympus  range  looms  up  tar  in  the  interi<n\  In  winter  these 
mountains  are  covered  with  snow,  which  lies  in  the  gorges  and  valleys  nearly  the 
whole  summer.  ]\Iount  Olympus  is  the  highest  peak  of  the  range.  It  attains  an 
elevation  of  eight  thousand  one  hundred  and  thirly-eigh;  feet,  according  to  determi- 
nations madeiu  IStl  by  the  United  States  exphuin-  .-xpedition,  which  placed  it 
in  latitiule  47'^  45'  north,  and  longitude  122°  37  west. 

It  is  said  to  liave  been  first  seen  by  Perez,  in  1774,  who  [)laced  it  in  47°  47' 
north,  and  called  it  La  Sierra  Santa  Kosalia;  but  the  account  of  his  voyage  was 
not  published  until  many  years  after  that  date,  (1S02.) 

It  was  next  described  by  Meares,  in  !7S,S,  and  placed  in  latitude  47°  10';  the 
error  arising  from  his  sujtposing  it  nuu'h  nearer  the  coastline  than  it  ac  ually  is, 
ui»on  the  bearing  which  he  ob^Tved.  In  his  sketch  it  is  marked  <inite  close  to  tlie 
isiioie,  in  latitude  47°  14'  north,  lie  called  it  M«)unt  Olympus,  the  only  nam<'  l.y 
which  it  is  now  known. 


I 


174 


COAST  PILOT  OF  AVASIIINGTON  TI^RRITOllY. 


Si  ! 


Ill  1792  Vanrouver  determined  its  position  approximately,  and  gaAe  tlie  lati- 
tude as  47°  50'  north. 

QU15-NI-UTL  RTVER. 

The  month  of  this  small  stream  is  between  three  and  four  miles  northwest  by 
west  from  Point  Grenville,  and  is  almost  closed  by  the  shingle  and  gravel  thrown 
up  by  the  surf;  there  is,  however,  a  contracted  opening  for  the  passage  of  canoes 
in  calm  weather.  The  closing  of  the  entran(!e  has  so  dammed  the  river  as  to  form 
a  small  lake  inside,  upt  :i  the  banks  of  which  is  situated  a  village  of  the  Queniutls, 
Ji  race  of  Indians  hostile  to  all  other  tribes.  Combined  with  others  to  the  north- 
ward they  have  ever  been  notorious  for  their  hostilitj^  and  vindictiveness  to  the 
whites.  Several  Spanish,  English,  and  Russian  A'essels  and  their  crews  were,  in 
former  times,  taken  and  destroyed.  Ilence  we  meet  with  the  names  Destruction 
Islaiul,  Isla  de  Dolores,  Punta  de  Martires,  &c.,  in  this  immediate  vicinity.  The 
river  is  said  to  head  in  a  lake  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains. 

The  name  of  this  river  is  usually  known  by  the  old  settlers  as  Que-noith,  but 
the  Indians  are  saul  to  pronounce  it  as  if  spelled  Que-ni-  tl,  accenting  the  first 
syllable  strongly,  and  the  last  so  softly  that  many  persons  consider  they  call  them- 
selves simply  Que-nai.  A  tribe  still  further  north  is  called  Que-nait'-sath.  The 
Mukkaws  call  it  the  Quin-aitl.  De  Mofras  calls  it  "  Kiniat." — (See  remarks,  De- 
struction Island.)  On  the  Coast  Survey  reconnaissance  chart  it  is  called  Quie-nite-l 
River. 

These  Indians,  when  traveling  by  canoes  along  the  low  sandy  beach  south  of 
Point  Grenville,  push  out  into  the  rollers,  keep  between  the  line  of  two  seas  that 
have  broken,  and  pole  the  canoe  through  the  surf.  This  peculiar  mode  is  rather 
apt  to  excite  the  fears  of  those  ignorant  of  what  a  canoe  can  be  made  to  do  Avhen 
skillfully  handled. 

For  four  miles  above  the  Queniutl,  the  coast  trends  in  the  same  direction, 
northwest  by  west,  is  composed  of  sandstone  clitis,  and  bounded  by  many  precipit- 
ous rocks,  the  height  and  direction  of  which  are  geiu'rally  that  of  the  clitt";  the 
or.ter  one,  about  fifty  yards  in  extent  and  thirty  feet  high,  is  split  in  two,  as  seen 
Irom  the  westward,  and  has  been  named  the  Split  Rock.  In  the  Coast  Survey  recon- 
nidssance  of  IS.")!*,  one  is  placed  two  and  a  half  miles  off  shore  in  latitude  -47°  27',  and 
the  .'(^ssel's  track  is  laid  down  inside  of  it.  It  is  a  low  black  rock  about  twenty 
yards  in  extent  and  twelve  feet  above  water;  there  is  plenty  of  water  one-quarter 
of  a  mile  outside  of  it.  From  the  number  of  sea  lions  upon  it  it  has  been  named 
Sea  Lion  Rock.  A  groat  many  large  rocky  islets  lie  close  in  shore  in  this  vicinity, 
but  n(nthwar<l  the  coast  is  nearly  clear  to  Destruction  Island.  It  makes  a  slight 
curve  eastward,  and  alternates  with  bold  yellow  cliffs  and  low  shores. 

DESTUUCTION   ISLAND. 

This  island  is  the  only  one  found  deserving  the  appellation  after  leaving  the 
Farallones.     It  is  quite  flat  on  the  toj),  which  lias  an  elevation  of  seventy-five  feet. 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASHINGTOX  TERKITOKY. 


175 


covered  vith  a  very  dense  growtli  of  bushes,  wliich  have  been  removed  in  a  few 
plaees  by  the  Hooch  Indians  for  the  raising  of  potatoes.  Tliere  is  upon  it  a  chinip 
of  four  trees,  readily  distinguislied  when  a  few  miles  from  it.  Vancouver  reported 
a  few  dwarf  trees  upon  each  end  in  1792.  The  shores  are  bold,  rocky,  perpendic- 
ulai',  and  nearly  of  the  same  elevation  as  the  blwfts  of  the  main  shore.  It  is  said 
that  there  aro  some  remarkable  perforations  through  a  rock  near  it,  but  these 
are,  doubtless,  only  seen  in  particular  directions.  On  the  eastern  end  were  for- 
merly some  rude  Indian  huts. 

In  running  along  this  coast  when  ten  miles  oft",  it  is  very  difficult  to  make  out 
this  island.  It  is  of  the  same  elevation  as  the  coast  cliffs  aijacent,  and  when  pro- 
jected against  them  cannot  be  distinguished  from  them  except  when  a  slight  hazi- 
ness exists  between  the  island  and  main. 

It  is  two  and  seven-eighths  miles  from  the  nearest  part  of  the  main  shore, 
which  here  runs  straiglit  iiorth  30°  west  for  ten  miles.  Its  general  direction  is 
north-northeast  and  south-southwest,  having  an  extreme  length  of  nearly  lialf  a 
mile,  and  its  width  is  about  three  hundred  yards  at  the  Avidest  part,  near  the  south- 
ern end.  Towards  the  north  it  tapers  to  a  small  rouiul  point,  from  wliicJi  i)rojects  a 
gravelly  tongue  about  two  hundred  yards  long,  curviug  to  the  northwest.  Just 
beyond  this  tongue  is  a  lodge  sweeping  to  the  westward  one-third  of  a  mile,  with 
a  few  detached  rocks  awash  outside.  Off  the  northern  end  of  the  island  and 
ledge  a  number  of  large  detached  rocks,  with  three  and  five  fathoms  between  them, 
extends  in  the  general  direction  of  the  island,  nearly  a  mile  from  the  edge  of  the 
bluff.  Heavy  breakers  generally  exist  throughout  this  rocky  patch.  The  western 
approaches  to  the  island  present  a  very  rocky,  uneven  bottom,  entirely  iiiititted 
for  anchorage  except  at  such  a  distance  that  the  ishui'l  woiilil  attord  no  protection 
from  southerly  winds  or  seas.  The  ten-fathom  line  i-  '  i  ii  t  liree-eighths  of  a  mile 
of  tlie  western  shore,  with  uniform  hard  bottom  outside  lat  'listanfc  in  eleven  and 
twelve  fathoms;  and  very  irregular  depths  inside  it,  with  two  >  i  nu  ks  having 

thirteen  and  eighteen  feet  of  water  on  them.  About  two  hundred  and  twenty 
yards  south  of  the  extremity  of  the  reef  at  the  south  end  of  the  island,  and  a 
(piarter  of  a  mile  froni  the  island,  there  is  a  sunken  rock  with  sixteen  feet  of  water 
upon  it.  The  southeastern  face  of  the  island  is  free  of  sunken  rocks,  bin  has 
broken,  irregular  bottom.  South  of  tlie  line  of  kelp  (whicii  cumniences  olf  the 
northeastern  part  of  the  island  and  runs  along  the  eastern  face  of  the  detaelicd 
rocks  to  the  northward,)  there  ar(>  five  and  six  fathoms  very  close  to  the  sh(»i-e. 
Sandy,  sticky,  and  unifinin  bottom  in  ten  fathoms  is  found  otV  the  southeast  fari  .rf 
the  island,  at  a  distance  of  one-eighth  of  a  mile  from  shore;  and  tlie  water  ai)pears 
to  deepen  only  a  fathom  in  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  Between  the  northern  end  of  tlie 
reef  and  the  shore  to  the  north-northeast  the  depth  of  water  is  everywhere  less 
than  eiglit  fathoms  :  the  soundings  are  very  uniform,  between  nine  and  ten  fath- 
oms to  North  Rock,  one  hundred  feet  high,  four  and  a  (piarter  miles  north-north- 
east of  the  north  end  of  the  island,  and  one  mile  from  the  liearest  slujre.  Seven 
miles  south  of  Destriu'tion   Island,  in  latitude  47°  .'?.'U',  Vaiiccmver  anchored  in 


176 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TEKRITOKY. 


I 


twenty-one  fathoms  of  water  over  soft,  sandy,  and  umddy  bottom.  This  position 
])hiced  him  seven  mik\s  Irom  the  nearest  shore. 

The  examinations  of  the  Coast  Survey  have  materially  reduced  the  reported  size 
of  this  island.  Tlie  extent  of  the  island  and  reefs  is  one  and  three-eighths  miles 
north-northeast  by  half  a  mile  iu  width ;  ami  a  thorough  reconnaissance  has  devel- 
oped the  fact  that  it  atlbi'ds  Jio  protection  ajininst  southeast  weather ;  in  fact,  prox- 
imity to  the  island  at  such  times  is  danj;erous. 

The  approximate  yeoyraphical  position  of  the  north  end  is  : 

c       /' 

Latitmle 47  41  north. 


Loniiitude. 


124  25  west. 


From  Cape  Disapi)ointment  it  bears  northwest  by  north  eiyhty-four  miles. 

Tin?  average  rise  and  fall  of  the  tides  observed  at  Destruction  Island  is  about 
live  feet. 

This  island  is  called  Isla  de  Dolores  upon  old  Spanish  maps.  It  received  its 
present  name,  by  which  it  is  only  known  on  the  coast,  in  1787,  from  Captain 
Bcrkely,  who  sent  a  long-boat  from  King  George's  Sound  to  explore  as  far  suuth  as 
latitude  47°.  The  crew  of  a  smaller  boat  entered  a  shallow  river  and  rowed  up 
some  distance,  where  they  were  attacked  and  murdered  by  the  Indians. 

In  April  1792,  while  Vancouver  was  at  anchor  in  twenty-one  fathoms,  seven 
miles  south  of  this  island,  he  "  had  calms,  and  found  a  constant  current,  without 
intermission,  setting  in  the  line  of  the  coast  to  the  northward  at  a  uniform  rate  of 
ludf  a  league  per  hour."  After  passing  Cape  Orford  he  had  been  regularly 
thus  ali'ected,  and  carried  to  the  north  ten  to  twelve  miles  per  day  further  than  was 
expected.    He  giv<  s  the  latitude  of  the  island  as  47^37'  north. 

The  United  States  Coast  Survey  published  in  180(5  a  hydrographic  reconnais- 
sance of  Destruction  Island  and  its  relation  to  the  main  land. 

In  the  indentation  of  the  coast  live  miles  north  of  Destruction  Island  empties 
a  small  stream  named  the  llooch,  after  the  Ilooch  Indians  living  upon  its  banks  j 
about  three  miles  northwanl  of  this  stream  is  an  island  smaller  and  higher,  but 
similar  in  outline  to  Destruction.  Although  close  to  shore,  yet  in  hazy  weather  it 
is  seen  standing  out  ap])arcntly  a  long  distance. 

From  Destruction  Island  m)rthward  the  shore  is  comijoscd  of  clift's,  which  form 
a  regular  curve  to  a  point  bearing  northwest  half  west  iioni  the  north  end  of 
the  island,  and  eleven  miles  distant ;  thence  the  shore  runs  nearly  straight  on  that 
course  for  ten  miles  to  two  high,  abrupt,  and  well-marked  rocks  standing  a  mile 
from  shore.  The  outer  one  is  Itjld  and  covered  with  tall  trees,  but  tlie  inner  one 
is  bare.  They  are  in  latitude  47°  58',  longitude  124°  40',  both  a|»[)roximately.  Many 
others,  but  smaller,  lie  inside  of  them,  and  nineteen  fathoms  are  fouml  close  out- 
side. Along  this  stretch  the  shore  is  irregular  and  blulf,  with  many  i  ,i;h  rocky 
islets  oil  it.  About  lifteen  miles  from  Destruction  Island,  off  the  mouth  of  a  stream 
laid  down  as  tln^  (Jiiil-ley-ute,  there  are  two  large,  rocky  islets  covered  with  trees, 
showing  a  cave  in  the  sea-face  of  the  southern  and  larger  one.    Tin  y  are  not  far 


J 


^iijiiaiu 

until  as 

Wl'll  up 

',  seven 

. 

vitlioiit 

Kite  of 

^•iiliirlj 

an  was 

oniiais- 

nipties 

banks  J 

er,  but 

itlier  it 

5I1  form 

end  of 

)u  that 

ii  uiilo 

H'V  Olio, 

* 

Many 

SC  out- 

1  rocky 

stream 

i'                                                                                                        ' 

L  trec^s, 

lot  far 

I 

'-mmrsBM 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASniNGTOX  TERRITORY. 


177 


from  the  low  beach,  and  behind  the  hirger  one  is  a  stockaded  viHage  on  a  {jjreen 
rise  between  tlie  leach  and  timber.  Behind  the  northern  and  snialk'r  one  enters 
a  small  stream  i\ou\  the  north  and  east,  with  apparently  low  groniid  to  the  sonth 
and  east.  Abont  three  miles  northward  of  these  rocks  is  Table  Rock,  abont  sev- 
enty feet  hiyh,  and  one  or  two  nules  ott'shon^  It  has  very  steep  sides,  rejjular  and 
glassy  top,  which  rises  into  a  slight,  ronnd  mound  in  the  middle  alxnit  ten  feet 
high ;  the  positions  of  the  rocks,  and  their  relation  to  the  coast  in  this  vicinity,  are 
only  approximate. 

Aleares  (!alls  the  curve  of  the  coast,  about  Destruction  Island,  '^  Queenhythe 
Bay,"  evidently  a  corrui)tiou  of  the  Que-ni-utl,  or  Que-noith. 

FLATTERY  K0C!lv2 

From  the  two  rocks  just  mentioned  to  Cape  Flattery,  in  48°  23',  the  course  is 
almost  north-nortljwest,  passing  through  a  group  of  high,  well  marked,  rocky 
islets,  in  latitude  iH°  12'  north,  named  the  Flattery  Roc  ks.  Before  reaching  these 
the  coast-line  curves  about  a  mile  eastward,  with  a  b.'uff  shore  nearly  free  from 
rocks  for  abont  eight  mivcs,  when  a  large  white  rock  ii:>lf  si,  mih.  out  looms  up 
prominently,  and  is  distinctly  seen  against  the  mainland. 

Flattery  Rocks  extend  between  two  and  three  miles  from  shore;  the  outer  ledge 
is  awash  with  one  islet  in  it,  and  the  track  of  the  Coast  S.irvey  steamer  is  laid  down 
inside  of  it,  with  sounding  in  nine  to  twenty  fathoms.  Iliivh,  a'»rui)t,  timbered  islets 
lie  inside,  with  their  ocean  faces  nearly  i)ei  licndicxdar,  about  one  hundred  and  tifty 
feet  high,  and  sloping  landward.  Where  destitute  of  trees,  these  are  covered  with 
grass,  bushes,  &c.  There  is  a  large  stockaded  Indian  \illage  at  the  foot  of  the 
high  grassy  slope  abreast  of  the  Flattery  Rocks.  There  must  be  protection  for 
the  Indians  to  land  their  canoes.    The  latitude  of  the  rocks  is  48°  12'  north. 

In  March  1778,  Cook  having  been  driven  seaward  by  heavy  gal(!s  off"  Cape  Per- 
petua,  made  the  land  about  the  latitude  of  47°  ;J5',  and  four  leagues  from  shore,  as 
he  sa.'  s,  when  he  was  in  hopes  of  finding  a  harbor  to  t'>o  northward  under  a  snudl 
round  hill  which  appeared  to  be  an  island,  but  on  approaching  it  he  became  almost 
convinced  that  the  opening  was  closed  by  low  lands,  and  being  thus  disappointed, 
he  named  the  point  of  land  to  the  noriu  of  it  Cape  Flattery,  and  jtlaced  it  in  lati- 
tude 48°  15'  north.  On  recent  English  admiralty  charts  the  cai)e  is  ])lac('d  in  the 
position  of  the  Flattery  Rocks,  although  Vancouver  adapted  the  jiresent  usage  on 
this  coast.  From  ^an  examination  of  Cook's  acccmnt,  with  a  kii  ..iedge  of  the 
coast  and  the  eiu'rents  here,  we  are  satisfied  that  he  was  further  north  than  he  esti- 
mated on  the  morning  of  March  22,  for  he  says  the  small  round  hill  like  an  island 
bore  north  three-quarters  east,  (trvu»,)  distant  six  or  seven  leagues,  while  the  coast 
extended  from  north  to  southeast,  (true,)  and  the  nea'est  shore  distant  about 
four  leagues.  These  facts  convince  us  that  his  position  was  in  latitude  47°  50', 
longitude  124°  4(»';  from  this  situatu)n  the  Flattery  Rocks  are  distant  seven  leagues, 
bearing  north  three-quarters  east,  (true;)  the  extremity  of  Cape  Flattery  bearing 
23* 


178 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TEHUITOKY. 


7  1 


nearly  north,  (time ;)  the  distance  to  tlie  nearest  point  of  laud  a  little  more  than 
three  leaj-nies,  and  the  coast  northward  of  Point  Grenville  bearing  southeast, 
(true.)  The  i>oint  of  laud  northward  of  the  Flattery  IJocks  wns,  therefore,  his  Cai)e 
Flattery,  and  his  estimated  latitude  of  it  eight  juiles  too  siiuill.  liefore  iu*.\t  day 
he  had  a  very  hard  gale  from  the  southwest,  accomi)aui<'d  with  rain,  and  he  did 
not  see  laud  again  until  he  n'ached  latitude  41)^°.  lie  arrived  at  the  couelusiou  that 
between  -17°  and  -tso  there  existed  no  inlet,  as  had  been  asserted. 

From  Flattery  Rocks  we  And  a  liigh  rocky  coast,  bordered  by  outlying  rocks 
for  eight  nules,  when  a  low  sand  beach  occurs,  receiving  a  small  stream  which  runs 
east-northeast  and  finally  north,  behind  the  mountain  constituting  Cape  Flat- 
tery, to  within  two  hundred  yards  of  the  beach  in  Nee-ah  Bay,  A  rise  of  twenty 
or  thirty  feet  of  the  sea  would  nuike  Cape  Flattery  an  island,  extending  five  miles 
(west-northwest)  by  three  miles  in  breadth.  This  creek  is  used  by  the  outer  coast 
Indians  during  the  prevalence  of  heavy  winter  gales,  when  the  pa.s.sage  outside 
the  (!ape  would  be  imi)racticable. 

From  Point  Grenville  to  Cai)e  Flattery,  the  hills  rising  from  the  coast  are 
about  two  thousand  feet  high,  densely  (;overed  by  trees,  and  cut  up  by  iniui- 
merable  valleys.  The  shore  is  inhabited  by  nuuun-ous  tribesof  Indians,  accustomed 
to  war,  and  bitterly  hostile  to  the  whites.  They  are  far  superior  to  the  Indians  foiuid 
along  the  southern  coast.  Their  villages  are  heavily  stockaded,  and  tlie  houses 
made  of  cedar  boards,  which  they  have  cut  with  great  industry  from  the  tree.  We 
have  measured  and  found  some  of  these  boards  to  be  over  four  feet  wide  and  20 
feet  long ;  the  outside  edges  being  about  an  inch  thick,  aiul  three  inches  in  the 
midcUe.  Their  houses  are  very  large,  and  partitioned  off  into  stalls  for  each  fanuly. 
Tlie  numerous  streams  emptying  upon  the  coast  afford  them  a  never-failing  supply 
of  the  finest  salmon  ;  and  to  obtain  means  of  barter  with  white  traders,  they  fear- 
lessly attack  and  cai)tiu-e  the  difterent  species  of  whale  on  the  coast. 


TATOOSII  ISLANB. 


This  island  lies  west-northwest  half  a  mile  from  the  poiut  of  Cape  Flattery. 
It  is  composed  of  small  islets  coiuu'cted  by  reefs,  is  <piite  fiat-topped,  and  without 
trees.  The  surface  is  one  hundred  and  eight  feet  above  high  water,  and  the  sides 
are  perpendicular.  The  entire  nuiss  is  composed  of  coarse  sandstone  conglomerate, 
with  an  outcrop  of  basalt  on  one  of  the  reefs.  There  is  a  depth  of  two  or  three 
feet  of  soil  upon  the  top,  which  was  formerly  cxdtivated  by  tlu;  Indians,  Avho 
resorted  here  in  summer,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  strong,  and  had  several 
houses  near  the  only  boat-lauding  on  the  inside  of  the  island,  (IS.'iL*.)  A  reef 
extends  a  cpnirter  of  a  mile  oft'  the  west  side  of  the  island,  ami  the  whole  extent 
of  the  island  and  reef  is  only  half  a  mile  west-northwest,  by  a  third  of  a  mile. 
Deep  water  is  found  upon  all  sides,  except  between  it  and  the  cape,  when;  a  reef 
exists,  upon  which  it  breaks  very  heavily  in  bad  weather.  We  are  informed  that 
small  A'cssels  ha\e  gone  through  when  jammed  by  an  unfavorable  wind.    In  so 


lo  more  than 

g    NOUtllCilHt, 

no,  lii.s  Capo 
ore  next  day 
,  iiiul  he  (lid 
iielusioii  that 

itlyiiiff  rocks 
1  whieli  runs 
;  Cape  riat- 
e  of  twenty 
Iff  live  miles 
i  outer  coast 
fige  outside 

e  coast  are 
ip  by  innu- 
aceustomed 
Hans  found 
the  houses 
>  tree.  We 
ide  and  20 
^hes  in  the 
ach  family, 
ling-  sui»i)ly 
,  tliey  fear- 


!  Flattery, 
id  without 
d  the  sides 
glomerate, 
0  or  three 
ians,  who 
id  several 
)  A  reef 
ole  extent 
of  a  mile. 
i'r(!  a  reef 
rmed  that 
id.     In  so 


m 


w 


i   iHi 


i: 


'»i:i.,;:ftA|::;5Ki 


i 


i 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASIlIN(iTON  TEKlMTOliY.  179 

doing  groat  risk  must  have  been  iiicuiTcd,  as  tlio  ciirrciits  in  tlic  vicinity  run  very 
irrcgnlarly  and  strong.  , 

From  the  tt»i»  of  the  island  a  leaning  roclfycoliinin,  abont  one  liundrcd  and  forty 
ft't't  high  and  ill'ty  feet  in  diameter,  is  seen  to  the  southeastward,  eh»se  under  tlio 
face  (»f  the  eai)e.  It  shows  well  when  a])]troaehing  Tato(»sh  Island  from  the  west, 
and  is  last  seen  from  the  Strait  of  Fuea,  when  the  eape  is  just  open  with  the  east  end  of 
Tatoosh  Island.  It  is  named  Pinnacle  Koc^k ;  sometimes  (tailed  Fuea's  Pillar,  but 
Juan  de  Fuca  located  his  pinnacle  on  the  north  side  of  the  entrance  to  lii.s  mythical 
straits. 

TATOOSII   ISLAND  LlftnT-IIOUSE. 

This  structure  is  erected  on  the  highest  part  of  the  islatuT,  and  consists  of  a 
keeper's  dwelling  of  stoiu',  with  a  tower  of  brick,  whitewashed,  rising  above  it,  and 
.surmounted  by  an  iron  lantern  painted  red,  its  height  being  sixty-six  feet  above 
the  toj)  of  the  island.  The  light  was  first  exhibited  December  liS,  1S57,  and  shows 
every  night,  from  sunset  to  sunrise,  a  Jixcd  white  lUjht  of  the  first  order  of  Fresnel.  It 
is  elevated  one  hundred  and  sixty-two  feet  above  the  mean  soa-levol,  and  in 
clear  weather  should  be  aeon  from  a  height  of— 

10  feet  at  a  distance  of  18.2  miles; 

20  feet  at  a  distance  of  19.7  miles ; 

.30  feet  at  a  distance  of  20.9  miles; 

GO  feet  at  a  distance  of  2.S.o  miles; 
so  that  a  vessel  from  the  southward  will  make  it  before  being  up  with  the  Flat- 
tery llocks. 

The  geographical  position  of  the  light,  as  determined  by  the  Coast  Survey,  is '. 

O  '  II 

Latitude 48  2;5  15.5  north. 

Longitude 124  43  50.0  west. 

h.    m.      s. 
Or,  in  tuue 8  18  55.3. 

Magnetic  variation,  21°  46'  east,  in  August  1855,  with  a  yearly  increase  of  1'. 

The  angle  of  visibility  from  the  land  southward,  round  by  the  west  to  the 
extreme  western  visible  point  of  Vancouver  Island,  is  131°^,  and  froin  the  same 
starting  point  rotmd  by  the  west,  up  iie  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fsica,  203°. 

This  island,  with  its  outlying  reef,  is  the  most  western  portion  of  the  United 
States  south  of  Alaska. 

The  present  name  is  that  given  to  us  by  the  Indian  tribe  (Muk-kaw)  inhaL'tirig 
the  cape  and  outer  part  of  the  strait.  Their  word  to  d'^slgimte  an  island  is  opi- 
clmVt. 

On  June  29,  1788,  Meares,  passing  the  entrance  to  the  strait,  hove  to  off  this 
island,  was  visited  by  the  Indians,  and  sent  an  officer  to  examine  it,  who  reported 
that  it  was  a  "  solid  rock  covered  with  a  little  verdure,  and  suriounded  by  breakers 
in  every  direction."    They  also  "  saw  a  very  remarkable  rock  that  wore  the  appear- 


180 


COAST  riLOT  OF  WASITINGTON  TKlflMTOKY. 


aiico  of  iui  nltclisk,  iftid  stood  iit  sonic  distaiiro  from  tlic  islmid."  To  tliis  rock  lie 
pn»  Hic  iiiiiiic  of  Piiiiiiiclc  Ikock.  It  is  the  coliiniiiai'  Icmiiiij,'  rock  already  de- 
scribed. He  says  the  "  ishiiid  itself  a])])eared  to  be  a  barren  rock,  almost  iiiacces- 
sibh',  and  of  no  fjreat  extent;  bat  th«'  surface  of  it,  as  far  as  \vc  could  see,  was 
covered  with  inhabitants,  who  were  }>azin};  at  the  shii>."  "The  chief  of  this  si)ot, 
whose  name  is  Tatoochc,  did  us  the  i'av»»r  of  a  visit,  and  so  surly  and  forbiddinjf  a 
character  we  had  not  yet  seen."  The  Indians  evidently  j;ave  him  the  name  of  Iho 
isliind,  whi«-h  he  mistook  for  that  of  the  chief.  His  sketch  of  the  island  and  <'ai)0 
also  includes  Hock  Duncan. 

Too-too-tche  is  the  Nootka  name  for  the  "  Thunderbird.*'  The  Mukkaws  origi- 
nally came  from  the  west  coast  of  Vancouver  Island. 

Ilerc^  we  may  be  ])ermitted  to  remark,  that  fntm  this  jdace  to  (^aj)e  Lookout, 
the  descriptions  of  Mcarcs  aie  confirmed  by  the  later  observations  of  the  Coast 
Hu'.  vey. 

I'.OCK  DUNCAN. 

This  is  a  small,  low,  black  rock,  rising  aI)ove  the  liis'hest  tides,  but  always 
washed  by  the  western  swell  which  breaks  over  it.  Deep  water  is  found  close 
around  it.  From  Tatoosh  Island  lij;ht  it  bears  north  ',V,P  west,  distant  two  thousand 
and  seventy-eif,'ht  yards,  or  more  than  a  mile,  and  many  vessels  i)ass  between  them, 
as  tlie  chart  shows  twenty-five  fathoms;  but  a  rock  has  been  reported  in  the  chan- 
nel, and  it  would  be  well  to  avoid  it  until  the  doubt  is  set  at  rest.  Vancouver's  ves- 
sels passed  between  them.  The  rock  was  first  noticed  by  Mr.  Duncan  in  1788, 
and  j)laccd  in  latitude  ISo  ,'?7'  north,  which  Vancouver,  who  gave  it  the  present 
name,  considered  a  tyj)o{>'rai)hical  error. 

During  a  three  months'  stay  at  Nee-ah  JIarl)or  in  1852,  we  tried,  upon  several 
occasions,  to  Iriiid  upon  this  rock  with  canoes,  but  could  never  effect  our  object. 

OJNTZ  ROCK. 

Nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mil(>  off  llock  Duncan,  on  the  line  from  Tatoosh  Island, 
Kellet  places  a  rock,  having  three  fathoms  water  upon  it,  and  to  which  he  gave  this 
name. 

With  no  Mind,  a  heavy  swell  from  the  west,  ebb  current,  and  proximity  to 
these  outlying  rocks  and  island,  a  vessel's  position  is  unsafe,  and  great  caution 
sliould  be  exercised  in  navigating  this  part  of  the  entrance  to  the  Strait  of  Fuca. 


CAPE   FLATTERY. 

This  cape  forms  the  southern  head  of  the  entrance  of  the  Strait  of  Juan 
de  Fuca.  It  has  a  bohl,  wild,  jagged  sea-facie,  about  one  hundred  feet  high, 
much  di'M'tcgrated  by  the  wearing  action  of  the  ocean ;  rises  in  a  mile  to  an 
irregular  hill  of  fifteen  hundred  or  two  thousand  feet  in  height;  is  cut  up 
by  gorges  and  covered  with  a  dense  growth  of  fir  and  almost  iaii>enetrable 
underbrush  from  the  edge  of  the  cliffs  to  the  summit.    The  shore-line  round  to 


COAST  riLOT  OF  WASlIINdTON  TERHITOllY. 


181 


Nco-ali  Tliiy  is  of  tlic  same  foil»i(l(liii};  cliiinu't*'!',  bordered  by  reefs  iuid  liaviiif;  but 
oiu'  short  stretcli  of  beach  at  the  foot  «)f  the  hills.  Upon  this  beacli  is  situated 
{or  was,  in  1852)  Clisseet's  Villajre.  The  soundinj^s  half  a  mile  from  shore  are 
deej)  and  irr«'p;uhir,  reaehin;;'  sixtyei^ht  fathoms.  The  current  runs  as  much 
as  three  miles  per  hour,  and  duriii};  the  ebb  sets  irrej-nlarly  round  the  cape, 
Tatoosh  Island,  ami  Uock  Duncan.  When  seen  from  the  southwestward,  CajHJ 
Flattery  htoUs  like  an  island,  on  a<'count  of  the  valley  throe  or  four  miles  eastward. 
The  iM'st  position  (or  seeiiifj  this  is  when  a  '<injjle  rock  off  the  cajK'  shows  itself 
(h'tached.  From  this  direction,  the  hi{,di  mountains  on  Vancouver's  Island  loom 
up  and  stretch  far  away  to  the  noithwest  and  t(»  the  east. 

The  extent  of  ocean  shore-line  from  Cape  JJisappointnu'iit  to  Cape  Flattery  is 
one  ]tundred  and  fortj-eiyht  miles.  The  name  adojjted  is  that  which  Cook  mwo  to 
this  headland  in  1778.  It  has  been  called  Cai)e  Jfartinez  by  the  Spaniards,  from 
its  asserted  disc(>very  in  1774  by  Martinez,  pilot  to  Perez,  who  announced,  nniny 
years  afterward,  that  ho  renn'mbered  to  have  observed  a  wide  opening'  in  the 
hind,  between  48°  and  4!)o  north  longitude.  In  1788  Captain  Duncan  anchored 
on  the  south  sliore  of  the  Strait  of  .Juan  do  Fuea,  off  a  villaj^e  called  Claasit,  or 
Claaaet,  in  48°  30'.  On  recent  Enf,dish  charts  it  is  called  Cape  Classet,  because, 
in  1702,  Vancouver  stated  that  as  the  name  given  by  the  Indians  to  distinguish  it, 
but  in  a  marginal  note  it  is  called  "  Capo  Flattery.''  (See  nnnarks  in  rela- 
tion to  tliis  matter — Flattery  Rocks.)  In  1852  wo  found  that  the  then  head 
chief  of  the  Muk-kaws,  a  powerful  man,  about  forty  or  forty  tiv(i  years  of  age,  called 
n.mself  and  was  called  by  tlu^  tribe  Clisseet',  but  we  could  not  ascertain  whether 
this  was  an  hereditary  title.  On  tho  western  coast  it  is  universally  known  as 
Cape  Flattery. 

It  Avas  near  this  cape  that  a  Japansc  junk  was  wrecked  in  1S;}3,  accounts  of 
which  will  be  found  in  Belcher's  narrative,  and  in  that  of  the?  United  States  explo- 
ring expedition.  (See,  also,  Schooha-aft's  Indian  Tribes  of  the  United  States,  page 
217.)  This  wreck,  with  that  at  Clatsop  Point,  and  others  found  at  sea,  shows 
strongly  the  direction  of  the  prevailing  winds,  and  especially  the  iuHuencc  of  the 
great  Jai)an  Warm  Stream  that  crosses  the  Paciftc,  and  reaches  the  American 
coast  about  latitude  00°,  where  it  divides,  the  greater  part  flowing  down  the  coast 
of  British  Columbia,  Washington,  Oregon,  and  California,  and  the  smaller  branch 
sweeping  close  along  the  northwest  sliores. 

BANK  OFF   CAPE  FLATTERY. 

At  the  entrance  to  the  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuea,  tiftoen  miles,  by  estimation, 
west-northwest  from  Cape  Flattery,  it  is  reported  that  a  bank  exists,  having 
eighteen  fathoms  upon  it.  The  Indians  frecpiently  go  out  ui>on  some  bank  off  the 
strait  to  fish  for  cod  each  season.  In  July  1805  the  schooner  lirant,  of  Victoria,  dis- 
covered cod-flshiug  banks  off  Cape  Flattery,  and  caught  five  barrels  of  cod  after  two 
hours'  fishing.  The  fish  arc  known  as  red  cod,  and  weigh  from  five  to  fifteen 
pounds  oa<!h.    The  bank  has  soundings  in  twenty-five  fathoms,   anil  is  sixteen 


emp 


182 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASniNGTON  TERIUTOKY, 


■!ll 


I 


miles  nearlj'  due  west  from  Ciii<o  Flattery.  Tn  1807  an  examination  was  made  of 
lialibut  banks  in  fiftj'  fatlioms  water,  off  the  southwest  coast  of  Vaneouver.  This 
is  an  Indian  iishinjif  ground.  Canoes  ^o  out  on  ebV)  current,  catch  an  average  of 
fifty  fish  of  fort\  pounds  weight  each,  of  indifferent  ({uality,  and  return  with  Hood 
current  and  westerly  wind.     No  extended  examination  was  made. 

About  latitude  -ISo  .'?.">',  and  seventy-five  miles  west  by  sonth  fr..ni  Tatoosh 
Island,  La  Ferouse  soun  led  over  a  bank  having  thirty-five  fiitiioms  and  pebl)ly 
bottom.  On  a  line  abo'.t  twenty  miles  north  by  east  from  that  [)oiut  he  got  forty- 
two,  forty-five,  sixty-five,  seventy-five,  and  thirty-four  fathoms ;  thence  southear*^  he 
imn-eased  his  depth  to  ninety  fathoms  in  about  seven  miles.  The  weather  foggy,  and 
no  observations  for  position.  Tliis  is,  doubtless,  the  bank  lying  thirty-tive  to  forty- 
five  miles  west  from  Cape  I'lattery,  and  midviiig  out  from  Ban.'lay  Sound.  The 
English  Chart  ;No.  J'JIT  exhibits  this  b'Mik  to  which  I  Lave  applied  the  name  La 
I'erouse. 

ST1:AIT  OF  JUAN  1)E  FIJCA. 

Tlie  entrance  to  this  strait  fn  ni  the  Facific  lies  between  Cajie  Flattery  and 
Cape  Bonilla,  on  Va?ic«>uver  Island,  whidi  forms  the  northern  sIkuc.  Its  width 
is  about  twelve  miles,  ami  the  bearing  from  Tatoosh  Island  to  Cape  IJonilla  north  ISo 
west.  From  this  line  the  strait  nms  east  for  fortj  miles,  with  a  uniform  width  of 
eleven  miles.  It  gradually  contracts  to  eight  miles,  between  Beechj'^  Head  on  the 
north  and  StriixMl  Feak  on  the  south;  changes  its  direction  to  east  by  north  half 
north  for  lifteen  miles ;  then  expamls  to  the  uiutlnvard,  attaltnng  a  width  of  eighteen 
to  twenty  miles,  and  divides  into  two  shi])  channels,  the  C..iial  de  Ilaro  and  Itosario 
Strait,  leading  through  the  Arcliipelagode  llaro  uoiihward,to  tlie  (iulf  of  (ieorgia. 
It  is  terminated  on  the  east  by  AVhidbey  Island ;  at  the  southeast  it  passes  into 
Admiralty  Iidet,  an<l  is  bounded  on  the  scuth  by  the  main  land  of  Washington 
Territory,  wliich  forms  the  entire  southern  shore  of  the  sti'ait.  From  the  ocican  to 
VVhidbey  Island  the  mid-channel  distance  is  eighty-four  miles.  The  depth  of  water 
throughtmt  the  strait  is  remarkably  great,  no  bottom  being  found  in  its  deepest 
])arts  Avith  one  hundr«'d  and  fifty  fatlioms  of  line.  It  is  the  main  artery  for  the 
waters  of  Admiialty  Inlet,  Fuget  Sound,  Possession  Sound,  HikmI's  Canal,  Canal 
de  Ilaro,  llosario  Strait,  Belli ngham  Bay,  and  the  vast  Gulf  of  Georgia,  extend- 
ing between  Vancouver  Island  and  British  Columbia,  for  one  hundred  and  twenty 
miles,  with  an  average  width  of  twenty.  Its  currents  run  with  an  average 
velocity  of  not  less  than  three  miles  per  )u»ur.  and  olV  the  Race  Island  a:id  Beechy 
Head  over  six  miles  an  ln)nr.  Its  shoies  are  bold,  abnij)!,  and  covered  with  a 
heavy  growth  of  varie<l  tin)ber  and  dense  undcrbiush.  On  the  north,  the  moun- 
tains rise  ra])idly  from  the  water,  and  many  attain  ;ia  elevation  of  not  less  than 
five  thousand  or  six  thonsaml  feet.  These  are  covered  with  spruf  e  nearly  to  their 
summits.  On  the  south,  for  thirty  "'lies  fnmi  the  entrance,  the  shore  is  Itounded 
by  hills  iv>o  tluiiisand  iWt  in  height,  backed  by  the  jagged  Olymjms  range  of 
t'iglit  thousand  tvo  Imndred  feet.     l'\ir  the  next  fitt.v  mi'es  the  shore  is  generall.v  a 


COAST  PILOT  OF  AVASHINGTON  TEKKITOEY. 


183 


! 


steep  cliff,  from  fifty  to  two  humlred  foethif,^!!,  withiifliit  country  exteiuliiifj  nearly 
to  the  Ibot-liills  of  Olympus,  and  stretcliinj^  further  south  as  we  nu)ve  eastward. 
On  the  east,  the  face  of  Whidbey  Island  is  very  steep;  it  .s  alumt  two  hundred 
u;:d  litry  feet  high,  and  a])pears  tlai-,  as  does  the  whole  country  eastward  to  the 
sharp-cut  outline  of  the  Cascade  range,  stretching  its  serrated  ridge  northward, 
where  the  snow  peak  of  IVIouut  Baker*  is  distinctly  seen,  and  to  the  southward, 
where  the  higher  peak  of  IMount  JlaiiJer  attracts  the  eye. 

Humboldt  calls  this  Mount  Kegnier,  depending  ui)on  the  narrative  of  Fremont, 
Avho  saw  it  in  active  operation  November  i;.5,  IS-i.J.  We  believe  it  is  over  lifteen 
thousand  feet  liigb. 

During  dry  summers  the  Indians  and  settlers  set  fire  to  the  for«>sts  in  every 
direction,  and  the  country  soon  becomes  enveloped  in  a  vast  smoke  that  lasts  for 
two  or  three  months.  At  such  times  it  is  frecjuently  impossible  to  make  out  the 
shore  at  half  a  mile  distance.  The  strong  westoly  winds  coming  up  the  strait 
disi)erse  it  for  a  while,  '»ut  oidy  to  fan  the  fires,  and  give  them  renewed  force  aiul 
activity. 

In  summer  the  prevailing  wiiul  draws  into  the  stiuit,  increasing  towards  eve- 
ning, and  frequently  blowing  a  ten-knot  breeze  before  midnight ;  but  unless 
the  wind  is  strong  outside,  'ittle  is  felt  in  the  strait,  and  very  fre<iuently  ves- 
sels area  week  from  Cape  Flattery  to  Admiralty  Inlet,  or  cice  versa.  In  winter 
the  southeast  winds  draw  directly  out,  and  create  a  very  heavy  cross-sea  off  the 
entrance,  the  great  soutliwest  swell  uuK^ting  that  rolling  out.  In  such  cases  trad- 
ing vessels  try  to  gain  Nee  ah  Bay  or  Han  Juan  Harbor,  and  renuiin  at  anchor  until 
the  wind  (changes.  In  beating  in  or  out  vessels  nmy  run  as  close  uiuler  either 
slune  as  wind  and  currents  warrant,  as  no  hidden  dangers  liave  been  found  half  a 
mil',  otf  shore,  except  at  the  west  side  of  tlie  small  indentation  called  ('rescent  Bay, 
near  Striped  Peak,  forty-four  miles  inside  of  Kock  Duncan. 

At  the  entrance  the  ciu'rents  ac({uire,  during  the  "large  tide"  of  each  day,  a 
veloi'ity  of  four  miles  per  hour,  and  after  strong  northwest  winds  a  very  large, 
short,  but  regular  swell  is  encountered  west  of  Nee-ah  Bay  during  the  ebb  cur- 
rent. If  the  wind  is  light,  and  no  steerage  way  on  the  vessel,  the  feeling  is  decid- 
edly disagreeable,  especially  as  the  current  seems  constantly  tu  set  close  anaind 
Bock  Duncan  and  Tatoosh  Islaiul.  If  a  vessel  falls  into  the  trough  of  this  swell, 
she  is  bound  to  Jetch  away  something. 

Settlers  are  gradnally  advancing  from  JNiget  Sound  aiul  Admiralty  Inlet  along 
the  strait  westward,  and  are  destined  to  meet  those  coming  up  the  ct)ast  from 
Cray  Harbor  and  Shoalwater  Bay. 

Wiishington  Territory  has  a  climate  excelled  oidy  by  that  of  California.  Wo 
know  not  where  to  point  to  such  a  ramifu-atioii  of  inhuitl  navigation,  save  in  the 
Hritisli  possessituis  to  the  mtrthward.  For  depth  of  w  ater,  boldness  of  apjiroaches, 
freedom  from  hidden  dangers,  and  the  immeasurable  sea  of  gigantic  timber  com- 
ing down  to  the  very  shores,  these  waters  are  unsurpassed. 


'Nimn'il  by  ViHicouvcr,  t7W. 


184 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TERRlTOliY. 


m. 

IH 

i 

1 

1  ■ 

3Ri 

The  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca  was  discovered  by  tlte  long-ljoat  of  the  laiperial 
Eagle,  under  the  command  of  Herkely,  in  1787. 

In  June  1788  it  was  examined  by  Meares,  in  the  Felice,  lie  luiving  ol»tained 
information  of  its  existence  from  Herkely.  At  the  entrance  it  "appeared  to  be 
twelve  or  fourteen  leagues  broad.  From  the  mast-head  it  was  observed  to  stretcli 
to  the  east  by  north,  and  a  clear  unbounded  horizon  was  seen  in  that  direction  as 
far  as  the  eye  could  reach."  He  freciuently  sounded,  ''but  could  [uocure  no  bot- 
tom with  one  luuv.lred  fathoms  of  line."  He  afterwards  sent  a  party  to  exphuc 
the  strait,  who  weiit  up  about  iiftj'  mUes,  determining  the  harbor  of  San  Juan. 
He  first  applied  th  '  name  "John  de  Fuca"  to  the  strait. 

After  the  expedition  of  1775  several  Si»anish  expeditions  were  fitted  out  for 
exphmition  in  these  latitudes,  but  we  are  not  sufficiently  acquainted  with  their 
results  to  state  their  claims  and  merits.  Haro  was  in  the  strait  in  1781),  Quimper 
in  17iH),  Eliza  in  17'./1,  and  Cialiano  and  Yaldez  in  1792. 

Gray  entered  the  strait  in  171)2,  penetrated  fifty  miles  in  an  oast-southeast 
direction,  and  found  the  passage  five  leagues  wi(h\  He  gives  the  latitude  of 
Tatoosh  Island,  or  Cape  Flattery,  48o  2-4'.  The  extracts  from  his  log-book,  stat- 
ing particulars  of  this  and  the  Columbia  Kiver  exi>Ioration,  were  not  nuule  public 
until  1810.  ^[ost  of  Gray's  latitu(h;s,  distances,  and  courses  are  good  and  trust- 
Avorthy. 

Vancouver  entered  the  strait  iu  1792,  and  gave  to  the  Avorld  the  first  detailed 
and  authentic  account  of  it. 


Till-:  SOUTHERN  SHORE  OF  THE  STRAIT  OF  JUAN  DE  FUCA. 

NEK-An  BAY. 

Koitlah  Point,  the  western  boundary  «)f  this  bay,  is  four  miles  east  by  north 
two-thirds  north  from  the  light-house  on  Tatoosh  Island.  From  Cape  Flattery 
the  shore  is  nearly  straight,  high,  and  rugged,  backed  by  hills  about  one  thousand 
five  hundred  or  two  tlumsand  feet  high,  and  covered  with  timber.  Deej)  water  is 
found  within  a  third  of  a  mile  of  the  blutts,  and  at  a  distance  of  half  a  mile  a 
depth  of  twenty  fathoms  is  obtained.  Witiiin  a  mile  of  Koitlah  Point  was  a  large 
village  of  the  .^lukkaws,  (18r)2.) 

The  bay  is  about  a  mile  and  a  quarter  long  south-southeast,  and  the  same  in 
width  at  the  entrance.  The  western  side  is  high,  precipitous,  and  bordered  by 
craggy,  outcro])ping  rocks,  three  hundred  or  four  hundred  yards  from  the  sIkmv. 
The  three  fathom  line  ranges  about  six  hundred  yards  from  the  foot  of  the  blulf. 
The  general  direction  of  this  side  is  southeast  for  one  mile;  when  the  hills  sud- 
denly cease,  and  a  low  shore,  with  sand  beach  backed  by  w(tods,  curves  gradually 
to  the  northeast  by  east  for  a  mile  and  a  quarter  to  Ha-ad-dah  Point,  fiunied  by  a 
spur  of  the  hills. 

The  east  side  of  the  bay  is  formed  by  Waaddah  Island,  the  northern  end  of 
wliicli  lies  one  and  a  half  mile  from  Koitlah,  east  by  north  half  n(»i'th.     This  island 


e  Imperial 

g  obtained 
'iired  to  be 
i  t<»  stietcli 
ire(;tioii  us 
ire  no  bot- 
to  explore 
Sau  Juan. 

ted  out  lor 
witli  tlieir 
',  Quiinper 

•southeast 
atitude  of 
LM)ok,  stat- 
iide  public 
and  trust- 

it  detailed 


UCA. 


I  by  nortli 
!  Flattery 

thousand 
[)  water  is 

a  mile  a 
IS  a  large 

e  same  in 
tiered  by 
he  shore, 
th."  bluff, 
hills  sud- 
^radually 
med  by  a 

m  end  of 
is  island 


COAST  riLOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TERIUTOltY.  185 

is  a  narrow,  liish  ridge,  about  two  hundred  and  lil'ty  yards  wide,  and  hall"  a  mile 
Ions',  covered  with  trees,  and  having-  a  direct  ion  southeast  onc-iiuarter  east,  pointing 
toward  IJa-ad  <lah  Point,  and  presenting  the  appearance  of  a  continuation  of  thiit 
spur,  but  separated  from  it  by  a  ibur-l'atliom  chaiuiel  live  hundred  yards  wide. 
Off  the  southwest  part  rocks  extend  foi'  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards,  and  the 
three-fathom  line  is  si>;  hundred  yards  distant.  Along  the  sand  beach  the  three- 
fathom  line  is  within  two  hundred  yards  of  the  shore,  the  depth  increasing  to 
seven  fathoms,  then  decreasing  to  live,  in  the  middle  of  the  bay,  and  again 
increasing  to  ten  on  the  outer  line  of  the  bay.  ^luch  kelp  abouiuls  in  this  har- 
bor, even  in  deep  water,  the  lower  and  thinnest  portion  being  used  by  the  Indians 
for  fishing-lines.  When  coiled  away  and  dry  they  bieak  like  grass,  but  soaking 
them  in  salt  water  renews  their  elasticity  and  strength. 

Th(>  best  anchorage  is  in  the  south  part  of  the  bay,  in  about  five  fathoms, 
being  th(>n  olf  the  suudl  stream  which  cimies  in  at  the  eastern  foot  of  the  hills. 
J<ro  direction  ean  be  given  alxmt  anchoring  olf  any  particular  village,  as  the 
Indians  change  their  location  so  freviuently;  but  near  this  stream  will  generally 
be  fouml  «ome  houses,  with  an  abundance  of  fresh  water.  During  s(»utherly 
weather  little  swell  is  felt  here,  and  the  wind  can  do  no  harm;  but  when  a  large 
westerly  swell  is  coming  up  the  strait  it  reai-hes  lure,  and  a  vessel  rolls  uncom- 
fortably unless  she  rides  head  to  it. 

The  low  ground  iibreast  of  the  anchorage,  and  but  two  or  three  hundred  yards 
from  the  beach,  is  the  head  of  a  small  stream  that  runs  through  the  low  prairie  lands 
behind  Cape  Flattery,  and  empties  into  Nisco  I'.ay  south  of  the  cape,  near  a  win- 
tei-  villiigv  of  the  Alukkaws,  called  Wa-at<-h.  This  stream  is  frciiueutly  used  by 
them  in  winter,  when  they  cannot  take  their  canoen  outside  the  ca])*'. 

The  priumry  astronomical  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  was  just  back  of  the 
beach,  about  lour  hundred  yar.ls  east  of  the  snudl  stream  before  referred  to. 
From  the  northwest  end  of  Waaddah  Ishiud  it  bears  south  by  west  half  west,  dis- 
tant one  and  three-eighths  mile.    Its  geographical  positum  is: 

Latitude.... 4S  21  4S.S  north. 

Longitude 1^;'  ^^7  Jli.Owest. 

"  .  II.      III.  K. 

Or,  in  time '"*  '"^  -'^•'^ 

.Magnetic  variation  L'l-  ;50'  east,  in  August   isr.i',  with  a  yearly  increase  of  I'. 

Soon  after  we  left  this  station  the  Indians  dug  up  and  destroyed  all  the  nuirks 
fixed  to  recover  it,  under  the  belief  that  evil  s])irits  were  buried  with  them. 

The  buildings  of  the  Indian  reservation  are  near  the  (.'oast  Survey  statiim ; 
the  residence  of  the  Ciiited  States  agent  is  at  the  eastern  point  of  the  bay. 

7V,/(.,s'.— The  corrected  establishment,  (U-  mean  interval  between  the  time  of  the 

moon's  transit  au.l  t\u'  time  of  high  water,  is  V2h.  Xh,,.     The  nu-an  rise  and  fall  of 

tides  is  o.r.  feet;  of  spring  tides,  7.4  feet;  and  of  neap  tides,  1.S  feet.     The  mean 

duration  of  the  Mood  is  (i//.  'Mm.,  and  of  the  ebb  ti/(.  Wm.    The  average  ditfereni-e 

24* 


:?* 


180 


COAST  riLOT  OF  WASIIIXGTOX  TEHIIITORY. 


l)ctwo('ii  tlio  eorroctod  establishments  of  the  a.  in.  and  p.  ni.  titles  of  the  same  day 
is  1//.  ISjH.  for  hijih  Avater,  and  Mi.  (»L*w.  for  low  water.  Tiie  dilVerences  when  the 
moon's  declination  is  j^reatest  are  li//.  l'()»j.  and  1/;.  'AUii.,  respectively.  The  averaf^e 
ditferenee  in  height  of  those  two  titles  is  1.7  feet  for  the  high  waters,  and  ;5.5  feet  for 
the  low  waters.  AVhen  the  moon's  declination  is  j^reatest  those  dift'eienees  are  2.8 
feet  and  o.O  feet,  respectively.  The  averafto  ditferenee  of  the  hij^her  high  and  lower 
low  waters  of  the  same  day  is  .s.L'  feet,  and  when  the  moon's  decliiuition  is  great- 
est, 0.5  feet.  The  higher  high  water  in  the  twenty-fonr  hours  oecnrs  about  ll/i. 
itim.  after  the  moon's  upper  transit,  (southing.)  when  the  moon's  declination  is 
north,  aiul  about  '.V2m.  before,  when  south.  The  lower  low  water  occurs  about  Ih. 
after  the  higher  high  water.  The  greatest  observed  difference  between  two  low 
waters  of  one  day  was  0.0  feet,  and  the  greatest  difCerence  between  the  higher 
high  and  lower  low  waters  of  one  day  was  12.0  feet. 

To  tind  the  times  of  high  and  low  waters,  first  cimipute  them  for  Astoria,  and 
tiom  the  niimliers  thus  obtained,  subtract  nine  minutes  for  Nec-ah  l>ay. 

Tiiis  bay  was  known  as  Poverty  Cove  by  the  early  fur  traders  on  the  coast; 
next  as  i'ort  Nunez  (luona,  by  Quimper,  in  17!>0.  In  1702,  the  Spaniards,  then 
establishing  themselves  at  Nootka  Sound,  attempted  to  found  a  colony  here,  and 
as  la.(>  as  lSt7  bricks  were  found  near  tlu^  small  stream  abieast  of  the  audio.. ige. 
AVe  searched  for  vestiges  of  the  settlenu'iit  in  1S.")2,  but  found  lutthing.  \n  ISOO,  a 
brick  Avas  dug  up  from  the  depth  of  two  feet,  on  the  site  ]»oiiited  out  by  the 
Indians.  "S'aucoiiver  noted  the  indentation  of  the  coast  here  in  1702.  It  was 
next  called  "Scarborough  llarltor,"  by  the  United  States  exploring  expedition  in 
1S41.  The  Indian  name  is  that  now  adoi)ted,  and  the  only  one  by  which  it  is 
known  on  the  coast. 

In  1S.")2,  the  ]Mukkaws  about  Flattery  could  muster  three  liiuidrtMl  or  four 
liuiidred  warriors,  mostly  armed  with  muskets  and  knives.  Tiiey  had  several 
large  stockaded  villages,  and  hundreds  of  canoes.  We  have  counted  over  seventy 
at  one  time,  tishing  for  salmon  in  the  biiy.  They  were  brave  and  fearless;  made 
voyages  to  Nitinat,  Clayotiuot,  and  Nootka  Sounds,  and  pursued  the  whale  and 
black  tish  successfully.  In  three  months  they  sold  over  seven  thousand  live  hun- 
dred gallons  of  oil  to  the  traders.  They  maintain  trade  with  the  Indians  on  the 
west  of  Vancouver,  tbrcing  them  to  dispose  of  their  oil  and  skins  to  themselves 
directly,  and  not  to  the  traders.  IJy  this  means  they  make  a  large  prolit  as  inter- 
mediate traders.  They  estimate  their  wealth  by  the  miniber  of  slaves  and 
bhinketf'.,  and  the  (piantity  of  oil  they  ]»osses.s.  In  the  fall  of  isr»2,  the  small-poy. 
was  introduced  among  them,  and  nearly  swept  olV  the  tribe,  more  than  two  tliin's 
falling  victims  to  the  disease — among  them  the  principal  chief,  Clissect,  and  tiie 
second  chief,  J'Mattery  .lack. 

Two  miles  east  of  Waaddah  Island,  and  within  the  limits  of  the  kelp,  is  a 
rcM'k  one  hundred  and  titty  feet  high,  called  Sail  Itock  by  the  United  States 
exploring  expedition,  and  by  Kellet,  Klaholoh,  (seals.)  The  Indian  name  is 
Saelok.     Behind  it  enters  a  small  stream  called  the  Oklio  on  the  admiralty  charts, 


COAST  riLOT  OF  WAS  II  INC  TON  TEIUUTOKY. 


187 


?  same  day 
•i  wlu'ii  the 
lie  avera{,fe 
ii.."3  foot  tor 
oos  arc  2.8 
and  lower 
u  is  groat- 
ibont  11/t. 
liiiation  is 
1  about  7/i. 
n  two  low 
lie  higher 

toria,  and 

lie  ooast; 
nils,  tlioii 
lioic,  and 
iu;Iio..(ge. 
In  lS(io,  a 
It  by  the 
.  It  was 
'dition  ill 
lich  it  is 

I  or  lour 
1  so\oral 
•  seventy 
*s;  made 
luile  and 
live  hun- 
■s  on  the 
3msei\es 
as  inter- 
ves  and 
inall-poy. 
o-thin's 
and  tne 

elp,  is  a 

States 

laino  is 

charts, 


but  tliis  is  not  the   Indian  name,  and  has  probably  been   confounded  for  the 
O'Koho,  thirteen  miles  eastward  of  Nee-ah  I'.ay. 

calla:m  nAv.*  * 

I'rom  the  eastern  point  of  Xeeah  bay  to  Sekoii  Point,*  tlie  western  part  of 
Callain  Hay,  the  course  is  east  half  south,  and  distance  thirteen  and  a  half  miles. 
The  shore-line  is  nearly  straight,  bhilf,  and  bordered  by  rocks,  with  an  occasional 
stretch  of  sandy  beach.  One  mile  oil"  shore  the  average  depth  of  water  is  twenty 
fathoms.  Tlie  bay  is  at  the  western  termiuatioii  of  a  high,  bold,  wooded  ridge, 
running  i)arallel  to  the  slion^,  with  an  almost  perpendicular  water  face,  and  laliiiig 
away  rapidly  inshore.  This  easily  recogni/ed  ridge  is  about  one  thousand  feet 
high  and  seven  miles  long.  The  western  extremity  lies  east  one-third  south  iVom 
AVaaddah  island,  is  distant  sixteen  miles,  and  called  Slip  Point  ;*  the  eastern  is 
designated  Pillar  Point.*  The  width  of  the  bay,  from  Sekou  Point  to  Slip  Point, 
is  two  miles,  and  the  bearing  east  by  ii(»rth  half  north.  Outside  these  limits 
lifteen  fathoms  water  may  be  struijk.  The  form  of  the  bay  is  nearly  semicircular, 
and  the  depth  of  the  curve  nearly  a  mile,  Avith  six  fathoms  about  the  middle. 
Into  it  empties  a  small  stream  from  the  southeast,  having  low  land  on  its  eastern 
side,  and  a  small  rise  on  the  west.  Some  sunken  rocks  are  said  to  lie  oft'  Slip 
Point. 

The  water  along  the  face  of  the  ridge  is  very  deep,  and  the  bottom  rocky  ami 
irregular.  About  half  way  along  it  is  the  entrance  to  a  vein  of  lif^nitiN  which  has 
been  worked,  but  it  is  not  tit  for  steamshi]*  consumption.  Off  this  mine,  at  a  dis- 
tance of  a  cable's  length,  a  <lepth  of  thirty-live  fathoms  is  found,  with  a  swell  upon 
tlu?  rocks  sullicient  to  (h'stroy  any  boat  l(^ading  there.  The  so  called  c<»al  is  very 
easily  broken,  and  crumbles  by  exposure  to  the  weather.  We  saw  it  fairly  tried 
upon  a  steamer,  and  it  did  not  answer.  An  analysis  of  some  of  the  best  specimens 
yielded  sixty-eight  per  cent,  of  carbon,  and  we  Judge  it  to  be  bitumen.  The 
geological  formation  of  the  whole  region  is  opposed  to  the  existence  of  coal. 
Among  the  bituminous  shales  we  searched  in  vain  for  any  specimens  of  fossil 
impressions. 

Pillar  Point  is  nearly  east  half  south  from  the  north  end  of  Waaddah  Island, 
and  distant  twenty-three  miles.  Its  latitude  is  48°  1.!'  north.  The  ])eak  is 
slightly  sejiaratcd  from  the  main  ridge  by  a  de]n-ession.  I'^rom  this  ]>oint  the 
shore  trends  south-southeast  about  a  mile,  and  receives  a  stream  coining  from  the 
westward,  called  Canel  Kiver.*  An  Indian  village  exists  here.  The  Indian  name 
of  the  stream  is  Pisht-st. 

From  Pillar  Point  the  next  pnmilnent  object  is  a  wooded  hill  called  Strijied 
Peak,*  bearing  east  by  north,  and  distant  seventeen  miles.  The  shore  retreats  to 
the  southward  of  this  line  alxuit  three  miles,  having  alternate  blutf  an<l  low 
shores,  with  many  little  streams  opening  ui)on  them;  and  at  the  distance  of  eleven 
or  twelve  mih's   frtnn   Pillar   Point,  Low   Point*   makes  out,  at  tlu!   mouth  of  a 

"NuiiH"  i»ii  tlu'  Kiinlisli  niliniritll.v  rlimt,  1847. 


188 


COAST  riLOT  OF  AV^ASIIINGTOX  TERRITOIiY. 


stream  railed  tlie  Lyre.*  Eoeks  abound  close  sdoiij^  the  shore.  The  kelj)  jfeiie- 
rally  extends  out  lo  live  iathonis,  and  the  average  dei»th  of  water,  a  uiile  olV,  is  ten 
fathoms.  One  mile  before  reachinjj^  the  western  part  of  Striped  Peak  is  a  sunken 
rock,  upon  which  the  sea  bri'aks  at  low  water.  A  slif^ht  indentation  of  the  shore 
here  has  received  tin'  name  of  Crescent  Bay.t 

Striped  Peak  is  several  hundred  feet  hijih,  and  wooded,  and  was  doubtless 
named  from  a  well-marked  line  uptui  its  water  side,  occasioned  by  a  land  slide 
from  its  summit.  This  mark  is  beiuj;  rapidly  obliterated  by  the  growth  of  vegeta- 
tion. The  base  of  the  hill  towards  the  water  presents  a  istraight  line,  running  east 
by  mu'th  for  three  nules,  with  deep  water  oJif  it. 

Frcshiratcr  li<ii/.f — The  eastern  part  of  Striped  Peak,  with  several  rocks  oil'  it, 
is  called  Observatory  Point,  on  the  admiralty  charts,  and  forms  the  western 
boundary  of  Freshwater  Hay.  The  eastern  side  is  the  low  delta  called  Angeles 
Point,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Elwha.  and  the  line  joining  the  two  runs  east  by- 
north  two-thirds  north  three  miles  across.  Inside  of  this  line  the  deptii  of  the 
curve  is  about  one  and  a  quarter  miles,  with  water  ranging  from  sixteen  fathoms  to 
fcmr  or  live  close  inshore.  The  western  shore  of  the  bay  is  blutf,  the  eastern  low, 
with  a  blutf  in  the  rear.  The  waters  of  the  Elwha  bring  down  such  iiuantities  of 
earth  that  we  lind  only  ten  fathoms  water  at  a  distance  of  three-quarters  of  a 
mile  olf  its  mouth. 


rOKT  ANGELES,  OR  FALSE  DrNUE>'E8S. 

Four  miles  east  of  the  IClwha  commences  a  long,  low,  very  narrow  sand  spit, 
stietching  out  from  the  blutf  in  a  general  east-northeast  direction  for  three  miles, 
to  the  [loint  called  Ediz  Hook;|  which  lies  one  and  a  half  mile  off  the  main  shore, 
thus  forming  an  excellent  au<l  extensive  harbor,  open  to  the  eastward:  with  deep 
water  of  twenty-tive  to  thirty  fathoms,  sandy  bottom,  close  under  the  inside  of  the 
sand  si)it,  almost  to  the  head  of  the  bay.  Through  the  centre  of  the  bay  we  found 
a  line  of  fifteen  fathoms,  sticky  bottom,  and  between  that  and  the  main  it  shoals 
very  regularly,  with  the  same  kind  of  bottom.  On  the  outside  of  the  sj)it,  very 
deep  \\  ater  is  found  close  to  it,  and  the  Hook  nuiy  be  rounded  within  a  cable's 
length,  in  twenty-five  fathoms.  In  the  indentation  betMcen  Angeles  Point  and 
the  head  of  the  bay  the  \\  ater  is  shoal,  ten  fathoms  being  found  two  miles  li'om 
shore. 

The  nook  is  covered  with  coarse  grass,  and  in  many  places  with  driftwood, 
showing  that  the  sea  sometimes  washes  over  it.  Although  it  lies  well  <mt  of  the 
line  of  vessels  bound  either  in  or  out  of  the  strait,  it  has  been  deemed  necessary 
to  mark  it  with  a  lighthouse.  In  thick,  hazy  weather,  it  would  be  readily  dis- 
tinguished if  clumps  of  trees  were  planted  upon  it;  as  we  recouimended,  in  1852, 
for  the  low  tongue  of  New  Dungeness.     From  the  mi(hlle  of  the  strait  it  cannot  bo 


*  Naino  on  the  Eii}{lish  adminilty  I'liiivt,  1S47.    Tlio  Iiidiim  tmnir  of  this  river  is  iCwn-lm-inish. 

t  Name  on  i\w  Kn>;lish  admiralty  cliart,  1S47. 

t  Named  on  tlie  i;ii;;lisli  adniirall.v  eliarl  of  I'-^IT  ;  K-edi/  on  (liat  of  IS.")!!. 


COAST  riLOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TEKRITOEY.  189 

seen;  aiul  its  position  is  ascertained  by  the  light-lionse  bniUling,  or  the  peenliari- 
ties  of  tbe  bluff  beyond. 

LlGlITIIOrSE  ON  EDIZ  nOOK,   VOllT  ANttELES. 

Tlie  lighthouse  is  within  fifty-live  yards  of  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  Hook, 
and  sixty-seven  yards  i'roni  the  iiuier  beach.  The  structure  consists  of  the 
keeper's  dwelling  of  one  and  a  half  stoi'ies,  painted  white,  from  -which  rises  the 
tow  er,  also  i)ainted  white,  Avith  the  dome  red.  The  height  of  the  focal  plane  is 
forty-two  feet  above  the  sea.  The  light  is  a  fued  ichitc  lujkt  of  the  fifth  order  of 
F'csnel.  It  was  first  exhibited  April  li,  lS(jr>,  and  is  sliown  from  sunset  to  sunrise. 
In  ordinary  states  of  the  atmos[)here,  it  should  be  seen  from  a  height  of— 

10  feet  at  a  distance  of  11.0  miles. 

20  feet  at  a  distance  of  12.5  miles. 

30  feet  at  a  distance  of  13.7  miles. 

Its  geographical  position,  as  determined  by  the  United  States  Coast  Survey,  is: 

Latitude 48  07  27.S  north. 

Longitude 123  23  42.0  west. 

/i.    m.      K. 

Or,  in  time 8  13  34.8 

The  computed  magnetic  variation  for  January  1808,  is  21°  30'  east. 
From  this  light  we  have  the  following  bearings  and  distances: 
Light-house  on  Eace  Eocks,  northwest  three-quarters  west,  ten  and  a  half 
miles. 

Lighthouse  at  entrance  to  Esquimalt  Harbor,  northwest  by  north  qiiarter 
north,  seventeen  and  a  half  miles. 

Liglit-house  on  New  JJungeness,  northeast  by  east,  twelve  and  a  half  miles. 
It  is  visible  from  a  shii>'s  deck,  abreast  of  the  Eace  Eocks.  At  the  head  of  the 
harbor,  and  connected  therewith  by  a  small  outlet,  is  a  large  salt-water  lagoon. 
Fresh  water  is  found  on  the  south  shore  in  several  places,  but  the  extensive  fiats 
render  it  difficult  to  be  obtained.  The  bluff,  about  seventy  feet  high,  comes 
almost  dire(!tly  to  the  high-water  line,  exe(>pt  in  a  few  localities.  There  Indian  vil- 
lages of  the  Clallums*  existed  on  its  shores  in  1852,  when  a  .secondary  astronom- 
ical station  of  tlie  Coast  Survey  was  established  near  the  Indian  grave-yard  at 
the  head  of  the  harbor.    Its  geographical  position  is : 

Latitude 48  07  52.0  north. 

Longitude 1-5  -^  -1     west. 

h.    m.      8. 

Or,  in  time - ^  13  49.4 

From  this  station  the  extremity  of  Ediz  Hook  bears  northeast  by  east,  distant 
two  and  five-eightlis  miles. 

*'rii(>  triboH  now  KciKMuUy,  Itnt  crrdiicously,  kiuiwii  by  this  iiiimt' I'lill  tUuiimclvcs  tlu>  Nus-klili- 
yiuii;  they  (Mcii|..v  llir  .ViiiiTiciiii  side  oC  tlic  slriiil  I'rom  tlii>  Oki'-lio,  tliirtccii  inili's  I'loiii  Ncr-Mli 
J5uy.     Tlirii'  ciiiini  iicrs  iiic  tlie  T'sok  mid  Sfinli-iis  on  imrt  of  the  NiimouviT  Hide. 


190 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASIIINCTOX  TICllKITORY. 


Tlic  bay  Avas  first  discovered  by  the  Spaniards,  and  by  tlieni  niailo  known  to 
Vancouver  in  17!*2.  Wc  first  heard  of  the  name,  False  l)un}i;<Miess,  in  l.sr»i;,  wlieii 
at  Cape  Flattery,  from  traders  tlient  mIio  did  not  know  the  proper  name  of  the 
liarbor.  The  United  States  customhouse  for  this  district  '.as  removed  from  I'ort 
Townshend  in  1S02,  and  located  on  the  south  side  of  this  harbor,  in  tlu;  month 
of  the  sharp  fi'ully,  nearly  two  miles  south-southwest  from  the  point  of  l^diz  Hook. 
On  the  Kith  of  December  liSO.'J,  the  villa j;e  and  custom-house  were  (U'stroyed 
by  a  torrent  of  Avater  burstinj;'  throu;;h  the  f'ully  behind  the  town;  an  accunuila- 
tion  of  follcn  timber  that  had  damnu'd  up  the  waters,  haviuf;'  suddeidy  yiven  way. 
The  cust(mi-house  was  ajjain  removed  to  Tort  Townshend;  and  the  village  is  now 
located  on  the  low,  narrow  point  under  the  bluff,  or  little  nuu-e  than  one  and  a 
half  miles  south  three-rinarters  west  from  the  lifjht-house.  The  larjje  Indian  villaj^e 
is  neaily  one  ami  a  half  miles  south  by  east  half  east  from  the  lijj;Iit-house.  The 
head  of  the  bay  alVords  a  capital  beach  for  heavinj;'  down  a  Aessel.  A  ])reliminary 
chart  of  False  Dunaeness  was  imblished  by  the  Coast  Survey  in  1853,  and  a 
second  edition  in  J8.")(!. 

Coal  of  fair  quality  is  rejiorted  to  have  been  found  within  three  miles  of  the 
harbor. 

NEW  DUNUENESS  BAY. 

The  snore  from  Point  Anodes  gradually  curves  to  the  northeast ;  and  abont  eijilit 
or  nine  miles  iVoni  E<liz  Hook  another  lon^',  low,  narrow  sand  s])it,  covered  with 
grass,  leaves  the  blutf  shore  and  stretches  in  a  fjeneral  north  northeast  direction  for 
three  and  seveii-eijihths  miles,  formiiij;'  the  northwestern  shore  of  the  roadstead  of 
I^ew  Dinif^'eiiess.  On  the  iusich',  one  mile  from  the  eastern  extremity,  another  nar- 
row sand  spit  makes  one  and  one-third  miles  southward  toward  the  main  shore,  foriu- 
inj;'  a  large  inner  shoal  bay,  with  a  narrow  opening,  through  which  the  arc'r  passi-s, 
as  over  a  ra])id  at  low  tide.  Abreast  of  this  point  is  a  small  streaii  ,  att'ording  aii 
abundance  of  fresh  water ;  but  boats  must  obtain  their  supply  at  low  tide,  and  come 
out  when  the  tide  has  sufliciently  risen.  The  western  side  of  this  stream  is  a  bluff, 
sixty  feet  high,  and  upon  it  is  a  large  village  of  the  Clallums.  The  eastern  shore 
of  the  stream  is  low,  swampy,  and  covered  with  trees  and  brush.  It  fiuins  the  south- 
ern or  main  shore  of  the  roadstead,  and  off  it  lie  extensive  mud  fiats,  which  are  bare 
at  low  water  for  five-eighths  of  a  luile,  and  run  as  far  as  Washington,  (u- Budd's 
Harbor.  Shoal-water  exists  some  distance  outside  of  these  Hats.  About  twenty 
fathoms  are  found  about  a  (piarter  of  a  mile  south  of  the  Liglit-h(mse  Point,  the 
depth  regularly  decreasing  across  the  bay,  Avith  a  soft,  tenacious,  muddy  bottom. 
The  usual  and  best  anchorage  is  to  bring  the  light-house  to  bear  about  north  by 
east  lalf  east  half  a  mile  distant,  Avhen  ten  fathoms  are  found  one-third  of  a  mile 
broa  I  off  the  beach.  With  the  lighthouse  bearing  northwest  by  north  threet 
quarters  of  a  mile  distant,  the  same  depth  and  bottom  are  found.  The  nearest 
shore  Avill  Ix'ar  south  one  and  a  cpiarter  miles,  and  the  nuid  llat  three-(piai'tersof  a^ 
mile  in  the  same  direction.     A  southeast  wind  drawing  out  of  the  strait   bloA\s 


i 


•tioii  for 
stoiid  of 

icr  iiiir- 
'(',  foriii- 

]>as:-;.'S, 
iliii};'  ill! 

11(1  ('OHIO 

a  bluff, 

•II   shon; 

south- 

irc  bare 

IJiuld's 

twenty 

>iiit,  the 

Itoltoni. 

oitli  by 

a  mile 

1    tlll■('(^ 

nearest 

■rs  of  a 

l»lo\v.s 


COAST  riLOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TEUKITOEY.  lUl 

(lircetly  into  tlii.s  harbor,  but  the  bottom  will  hold  any  vessel  with  f;ood  fyround 
taekle.  The  only  diilieulty  will  be  to  }?et  the  anchors  (mt  of  the  uuid  after  ridiuf"'  a 
eouple  of  days  to  a  yale.  In  the  last  position  a  vessel  can  readily  }^et  under  way 
and  dear  tlie  iKtint. 

This  jxtint  is  so  low  that  vessels  bound  in  (u-  out,  before  the  erection  of  the 
lijiht-house,  were  upon  it  before  they  were  aware  of  their  danger.  Several  had  run 
ashore  on  the  outside  beach,  and  in  IS,"*,  while  we  w(n'e  anchored  close  in,  with 
the  weather  thick  and  hazy,  a  vessel  from  Admiralty  Inlet  had  been  set  out  of  her 
course  i»y  the  currents,  and  Ciime  diiviufj;'  in  with  studdinji'  sails  set,  and  only  saw 
her  mistake  and  danj;er  when  the  black  hull  of  our  vessel  attracted  her  attention. 

A  shoal,  with  two  and  a  half  fathoms,  makes  out  from  the  end  of  the  point 
for  lialf  a  mile,  and  a  heavy  tide-rip  runs  over  it  at  the  change  of  currents.* 

A  hydrographic  sketch  of  New  Duugeness  Avas  issued  from  the  Coast  Survey 
Office  in  185(5. 

LIGIIT-lIOITSE   AT   NEW  DUNGENESS. 

The  structure  is  about  oiuvsixth  of  a  mile  from  the  outer  end  of  the  point,  ami 
consists  of  a  keeper's  dwelling,  of  stone,  with  a  tower  of  brick,  the  upi)er  hall' 
being  a  dark  lead  color,  the  lower  half  white.  Tlie  tower  is  surmounted  by  an 
iron  lantern,  i)ainted  red ;  the  entire  height  being  ninety-two  feet,  and  its  eleva- 
tion above  the  mean  sea-level  one  hundred  feet. 

The  light  was  first  exhibited  December  14, 1857,  and  shows  every  night,  from 
sunset  to  sunrise,  a  Jixed  white  light  of  the  third  order  of  Fresnel.  It  should  be 
seen  from  a  height  of — 

10  feet  at  a  distance  of  lo  miles, 

-'0  feet  at  a  distance  of  lOi  miles. 

30  feet  at  a  distance  of  IT'J  miles. 

Its  geographical  position,  as  determined  by  the  Coast  Survej',  is — 

o         '  " 

Latitude 48     10    58.1)  north. 

Longitude 123    00    07     west. 

h.      m.         s. 

Or,  in  time 8    lU    24.5 

Com])uted  magnetic  variation,  21°  43'  east,  in  August,  185C,  with  a  yearly 

increase  of  1'. 

Fi'om  it  we  hav(i  the  following  bearings  and  distances : 

Ediz  Hook  light-house,  southwest  by  west,  twelve  and  a  half  miles. 

Eace  liocks  light-house,  west,  distant  eighteen  miles. 

Esquimau  Uarbor  light-house,  northwest  by  west  seven-eighths  Avest,  twenty 

miles. 

*  Buoy  off  Kciv  I)un;/(:iicss  Spil.  Anotlu!!-  buoy  1ms  been  placed  off  tlii.s  point.  It  is  an  iron  buoy 
ol'  thu  sccoml  class,  painted  rod.  It  lies  in  tliioc  and  a  half  fathoms  water,  ono  mile  uoftheast  by 
north  from  Xew  Dungent'ss  lightJiouse,  and  west  by  north  one-half  north  from  the  southern  end 
of  Protection  Inland. 


h)2 


COAST  T'TLOT  OF  WASIIINOTOX  THKIUTORY. 


Victoria  Ifiubor,  northwest  by  west  tliit'e-ciuaitcrs  west,  (listaiit  seveiitecii 
and  thi'oo-iinarti'rs  iiiilos. 

Siiiitli'.s  Islaiul  lif-ht-lioiiso,  iioithi'ast  by  north  one-(|uar(t'r  north,  distant  thir- 
teen and  u  halt'  miles. 

Point  Wilson,  east  l»y  north,  distant  Ibnrteen  and  three-(inarters  miles. 

Admiralty  J  lead  lij^ht-honso,  west  by  sonth  halt'  sonth,  seventeen  ami  two- 
thirds  miles. 

roO-BKLL  AT  NEW  DUNOENEf<S. 

Upon  the  outer  extremity  of  tlie  point  a  t'oy-bell  of  eleven  hundred  pounds 
weight  has  been  placed,  and  is  said  to  be  struck  by  nuiehinery,  live  blows,  at  inter- 
vals of  ten  seconds,  followed  by  a  pause  of  ten  seconds.  In  18G7  the  nuiehinery 
was  out  of  order,  and  tlu>,  bell  was  struck  by  hand,  duriu};-  foyj,'y  or  other  thick 
weather,  day  and  nif^ht.  "The  strildnj;'  nuiehinery  is  in  a  frame  building,  painted 
bhiek,  with  the  front  open  to  receive  the  bell,  and  raised  thirty  feet  above  the 
gionud,  on  an  open  structure,  whitewashed." 

Tides. — The  approximated  corrected  establishment  is  3/t.  3»j.,  and  the  approxi- 
mated mean  rise  and  fall  of  tides  5.0  feet. 

Our  experience  in  these  waters  sugjitests  that  the  light-house  building  should 
bo  painted  black,  or  a  color  most  readily  made  out  in  fog;."  or  smoky  weather. 
Several  years  since  wc  urged  the  advantage  of  planting  ti»es  along  the  spit,  to 
afitbrd  large  dark  masses,  that  a  lookout  might  see  the  danger  before  being  upon 
it.    A  few  settlers  are  now  located  about  the  bay. 

This  harbor  was  fust  examined  and  made  known  by  Vancouver,  who  ai)plicd 
the  present  name,  in  1792.     It  is  known  by  no  other. 

In  185G  the  United  States  Coast  Survey  published  a  topographical  and  hydro- 
graphic  chart  of  New  Duugeness. 

Eastward  of  Duugeness  the  shore  is  indented  by  Washington  Harbor,  Port 
Discovery,  and  Admiralty  Inlet,  the  northwest  point  of  the  entrance  to  Avhich  is 
Point  Wilson. 

WASHINGTON  IIARBOB. 

Fi'om  New  Duugeness  roadstead  to  the  entrance  to  this  harbor  the  immediate 
shore  is  low,  tlat,  covered  with  trees,  and  bordered  by  an  extensive  mud  Hat;  but 
behind  it,  at  a  very  short  distance,  rises  a  level  plateau.  The  bluff  at  the  north- 
east point  of  the  harbor  is  seen  from  Duugeness  Point.  The  entrance  to  the  har- 
bor is  nearly  closed  by  a  low  sand-spit,  stretching  across  it  from  the  east  almost 
to  the  western  part,  where  a  narrow  channel-way  exists,  having  two  fathoms 
through  it.  This  cannot  be  seen  from  Duugeness  Point,  which  is  six  and  a  half 
miles  northwest,  on  account  of  the  outAvard  curving  of  the  intermediate  shore. 
Inside  of  the  harbor  we  found  seventeen  fathoms.  Its  width  is  a  little  over  a  mile, 
and  regular;  its  length  about  three  miles,  and  the  general  direction  southeast  by 
south.  One  mile  outside  of  the  sand-spit  a  depth  of  ten  and  twelve  fathoms  exists, 
deepening  rapidly  to  thirty  and  thirty-five,  with  a  bottom  of  stiff  mud. 

This  harbor  was  surveyed  tirst  by  the  United  States  exploring  expedition, 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TKIMJITOKY 


1{)3 


SCVCIltCCIl 

istaiit  tliir- 

ilt's. 

1  iiiid  1  wo- 
rd ]t<)iuuls 

s,  ilt   illtlT- 

macliineiy 
tlii'i-  thick 
g,  painted 
above  the 

e  approxi- 

ing  shouhl 
i  weather, 
he  s])it,  to 
eiug  upon 

10  applied 

ud  liydro- 

bor,  Tort 
which  is 


niuediate 
tlat;  but 
lie  uorth- 
the  har- 
t  almost 
tathoms 
d  a  half 
;e  shore. 
'V  a  mile, 
heast  bj; 
s  exists, 

)editiou. 


and  called  IJndd  Harbor;  but  there  being  a  sheet  of  water  in  Pnget  Sound  bearing 
a  similar  mime,  we  have  adojtted  Keilet's  a|>|)ellatiun.  The  Indian  name  of  tlie 
bay  is  S'lpiim,  by  which  it  is  geneially  iiuown  to  the  settlers, 

(jnimpcr,  in  17'.>0,  e\))lorcd  the  harbors  in  this  vicinity,  as  did  (iaiiano  and 
Valdcs  in  17iH. 

IMtOTKCTION    ISLAND. 

T^e  western  extrennty  of  this  island  lies  east  two  thirds  south,  distant  seven 
and  a  half  miles  from  Dungcness  light  honse,  and  extends  one  an<l  three  ((uarters 
miles  nortiicast  half  cast,  being  nairow,  curved  outward  to  the  strait,  and  having  a 
low  point  at  each  end,  with  shoal  water  stretching  from  the  western  end.  Its  sides 
are  very  steep,  and  about  two  hnndred  feet  high,  the  seaward  ]»art  covered  with 
tindter,  an<I  tliat  towards  Tort  Discovery  undulating  and  covcicd  willi  fern.  It 
lies  two  miles  directly  olf  (northwest)  the  entrance  to  Port  Discovery.  On  tlu^ 
inside  is  found  very  deep  water,  but  upon  the  ontside  a  lin(>  of  kelp,  iil)ont  half  a 
mile  out,  maiks  the  fonr-fathom  curve,  and  from  this  a  bank  extends  north-north- 
west for  three  miles,  iiaving  from  live  to  (ifteen  fatlioms  upon  it,  with  a  shoal  spot 
of  three  and  four  fathoms  two  miles  from  tlie  island.  It  atVords  am-horage,  with 
light  airs  and  strong  adverse  currents.  The  bottom  is  irregulai',  and  falls  otf  snd 
deidy.  U'his  shoal  has  been  named  the  Dallas  bank  by  the  Uni'  d  States  C'(tast 
Survey. 

This  island,  with  P(U't  Angeles  and  New  Dungcness,  atford  flie  tiist  examph's 
of  the  peculiar  feature  of  low,  sandy,  and  gravelly  points,  covered  with  <'oarse 
grass  and  luislies,  making  ouf  fro:n  the  high  elitl"';,  where  the  teudency  of  strong 
currents  would  seem  to  be  to  cut  them  oil". 

It  was  c'alled  Protecti«»n  Islaml  by  Vancouver  in  1702,  and  on  account  of  its 
position  in  relation  to  Port  Discovery  is  very  ai>tly  named. 

PORT  DISCOVEIIV. 

From  Dungcness  light  the  west  side  of  the  entrance  to  Port  Discovery, 
called  Challam  Point,  bears  east  by  south  one-lifth  south,  distant  nine  miles.  From 
"Washington  llarbtu'  the  distance  is  four  miles.  The  intennediate  shore  is  com- 
posed of  high,  steep  clitfs.  Cape  George,  the  eastern  point  of  the  entiance,  bears 
northeast  one-cpiarter  east  one  and  a  half  miles  from  Challam  Point,  and  is  a  steep 
bluff,  rising  directly  from  the  water.  The  average  width  of  the  bay  is  nearly  one 
and  three-(piarters  miles  for  nine  miles  of  its  length,  and  then  decreases  rapidly  to 
the  Salmon  river.  It  makes  t"our  general  courses  from  tlu-  entrance  to  the  head,  as 
follows:  One  and  three-quarters  miles  south,  four  miles  east  by  south  two-thirds 
south,  two  and  a  half  miles  south  by  east,  and  one  and  three-iiuarters  miles  south- 
west by  scmth.  The  shores  are  abrupt,  and  covered  with  wood  to  their  edges,  and 
the  projecting  parts  are  all  terminated  by  low  ]toints  stretching  out  short  dis- 
tances.   On  the  second  point,  on  the  easti'rn  side,  were  (IS-lfi)  the  remains  of  an 


I  i 


!; 


'« 


e 


I 

i 


li>4 


COAST  riLOT  OK  WASIIINC.TON  TKKIMTOUV. 


t'xrciisivo  stockiMlcd  villiiKf  oIIIk' Cliilliiiiis.     Moiiiil   Cliiilliiim*  lies  olV  tlic  soiitli- 
wt'stcni  pint  ofllic  l)ii\,  jiihI  rcaclH's  a  lu'i;;lit  of  twrnl.v  oiie  liiimlri'd  \Vv\, 

When  well  ill  tliis  bay  riott'ctioii  Island  siM'oinplctcl.v  shuts  up  tlic  ciitranco 
as  to  iiiaUc  it  appt-ar  as  a  larj-v  lake.  Tin-  j;r»'at  drawback  to  this  port  is  tlic  depth 
of  water,  wliieli,  in  mid  chaiiiu'!,  is  not  less  than  tweiitylive  latlioiiis  in  any  place, 
and  in  some  forty  fathoms.  Under  the  second  low  i»oiiit  on  the  east  we  eoiild  not 
liiid  less  than  twenty  five  fathoms  a  few  ship's  leiifiths  from  the  beach,  but  found 
;;(i(»d  aiichora-ic  in  twenty  fathoms,  soft  bottom,  on  the  western  shore,  two  miles 
soiitiisoiitheast  from  Challam  J'oiiit,  and  abreast  of  a  low,  swampy  beach.  At  the 
lioad  of  the  bay  it  contracts  in  width,  the  water  shoals,  a  larjic  iiiiul  Hat  exists  for 
tlu' last  mile,  and  the  shores  be<!oiiH'  hif-her;  but  in  idaces  the  hills  retreat,  and 
jjive  a  scanty  space  for  a  few  settlers'  eal>ins.  For  a  few  years  after  the  settling  of 
San  Krancisco  many  vessels  came  here  for  i)iles  and  s|>ars;  bui  a  sawmill  has 
been  built,  and  a  re;;uliir  lumber  trade  carried  on. 

It  was  discovered  in  17!M>,  by  Quimper,  and  called  Port  Quadra.  In  17!>1  the 
Spanish  discovery  brijj  Sutil,  Senor  Don  I).  (Jaliano,  and  the  schooner  Mexicano, 
Sefior  Don  C.  Yaldez,  were  refitted  in  this  bay. 

It  was  first  surveyed  and  made  known  by  Vancouver  in  170L',  who  refitted  his 
ships  and  established  an  observatory  at  tlu^  second  l(»w  point  on  the  western 
shore,  lie  <;iivc  it  the  present  name,  after  one  of  his  ships,  and  it  is  known  by  no 
other. 

In  18."),"),  we  tbund  on  the  bliitf  back  of  Challam  Point  a  jireat  nunilx'r  of 
trees  that  had  been  twisted  off  and  uprooted  by  a  torna(U>  irom  the  southeast- 
ward. The  i»rostnited  trees  wore  phiinly  visible  on  the  sh>piny  hillside,  from  the 
bay. 


POINT  WILSON. 


Tliis  is  the  western  i)oint  of  the  entrance  to  Admiralty  Inlet.  From  Duufje- 
ness  li<;ht  it  bears  east  by  north,  distant  nearly  fifteen  miles,  this  course  passing- 
over  the  outer  edye  of  the  three-fathom  shoal  (Dallas  Dank)  otf  Protection  Island. 
The  extremity  of  the  \Hnut  is  composed  of  low  sandy  hillocks,  covered  with  coarse 
grass;  but  west  of  it  the  hill  rises  two  or  three  hundred  feet,  and  again  falls 
inshore.  This  appearance  is  well  seen  in  approaching  it  from  the  strait,  and  is  a 
good  mark.  Between  the  point  and  I'ort  Discovery  the  shore  is  high,  w  ith  steep 
yellow  cliffs,  and  about  midway  a  slightly  iirojeeting  angle  is  formed,  called  .Mid- 
dle Point.  To  the  northwest  of  the  ]»oint  lifteeu  fathoms  can  be  obtained  a  mile 
from  the  shore,  Init  the  water  shoals  suddenly,  and  in  running  in  a  fog  the  lead 
must  be  kept  going.  Otf  the  eastern  end  of  the  ]>oint  twenty  fathoms  can  be 
found  a  slii[»*s  length  from  shore.  During  el»b  tides  a-  very  strong  eddy  current 
sets  t()  the  eastward  along  shore  between  Discovery  and  Point  Wilson.  In  1855, 
when  coming  out  of  the  hdet  on  tiie  large  ebb,  with  scarcely  any  wind,  we  kept 


'  Niunetl  by  tlio  iriiited  HUxU-n  Coast  Snrvoy  in  18.55. 


f  tlip  south- 

i'»'t. 

lie  ciiti'imco 

is  (luMlfptll 

I  iiny  jdiu'o, 
vv  could  not 
I,  but  loiinil 
',  two  miles 
fli.  At  tlio 
it  exists  for 
retreat,  iiiid 
'  settlin;-'  of 
t\v mill  lias 

lu  ]7!H  the 
•  31exieaiK», 

rellttod  liis 
lie  western 
lown  by  no 

number  of 

soutlieiist- 

1',  from  the 


)ni  Duiifte- 
se  i»assiiig' 
on  Island, 
ith  coarse 
ifiiiin  falls 
t,  and  is  a 
A  ith  steej) 
idled  31  id- 
ie<l  a  mile 
?  the  lead 
IS  can  be 
y  curr(>nt 
In  l,sr>i";, 
,  we  kept 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASrilXfiTOX  TKHT?ITOUV. 


19;") 


outside  of  the  rip  sliowiufj  the  line  of  tlie  eddy.  A  vessel,  two  or  tliree  miles 
aiu>ad,  was  in  tiie  eddy  at  the  same  time.  We  were  carried  past  Protection 
Island,  but  slie  was  drifted  back  to  Point  Wilson.  The  Indians,  when  bound  to 
Dunf-eness,  keep  well  out  in  the  eltb. 

In  IS.")?,  a  small  unlinished  log  hut,  called  l<'ort  Mason,  stood  upon  it. 

It  received  its  present  nanu'  from  N'aiicouver,  in  17!H.'. 

(ii'nirKii  I'KNiNsn.A. 

Between  Port  Discovery  and  Port  Townshend  lies  a  peninsula  three  miles  in 
breadth  and  ten  miles  in  hMigth,  otVering  great  advantages  as  a  location  for  a 
town.  No  name  has  hitiierto  been  ajiplied  to  it,  and  we  have  designated  it  as 
above. 

For  the  (h'scrijition  of  Adnnralty  Iidet,  Puget  Sound,  and  adjacent  waters, 
see  under  the  proper  hcvdings. 

VANCOUVEP  ISLAND, 

This  island  was  originally  called  Qtiadia  and  Vancouver,  by  the  Sjianish  com- 
man<h'r  and  Vancouver,  who  met  in  tlu;  (lulf  of  (ieorgia,  in  17!>U,  the  former 
entering  from  the  nortli,  and  the  latter  from  the  soutli,  through  the  Strait  of  Juan 
de  Fuca.    The  name  (^uadia  has  falleu  into  disuse. 

NORTH   SHORE   OF   THE   STRAIT   .TUAN  I>E   VVVA. 

From  Point  P>onilla  to  Owen  J'oint,  forming  the  western  head  of  the  entrance 
to  Port  San  Juan,  the  shore  runs  thirteen  nnles  east  one-thiid  north.  It  is  nearly 
straight,  rocky,  and  blutf,  with  high  mountains  rising  immediately  behind  it,  and 
all  heavily  AVoode<l.  From  ten  to  twenty  fathoms  are  foumi  within  half  a  mile  of 
the  shore.  Vessels  are  ai)t  to  lose  much  of  the  wind  when  close  under  either 
shore,  but  the  strongest  currents  run  on  the  American  side,  as  a  forty-fathom 
bank  stretches  out  from  Point  Bonilla  nearly  half  way  across  the  strait,  while 
more  than  one  hundred  fathoms  are  found  towards  Tatoosh.  Point  Bonilla  was 
named  Point  Duflin,  by  Meares,  after  his  first  officer,  who  explored  this  coast. 

PORT   SAN  JUAN. 

The  eastern  head  of  entrance  to  this  har1)or  is  formed  by  several  large  rocks, 
called  Ol)servatory  Bocks  on  the  admiralty  chart  of  1847.  From  Tatoosh  Island 
liglit  they  bear  northeast  by  north  quarter  north  fourteen  miles  distant.  Tin;  width 
of  the  bay  is  one  and  two-thirds  miles  from  i»oint  to  point,  and  their  bearing  east 
quarter  south,  and  west  quarter  north  from  ea<!h  other.  The  length  of  the  bay  is 
three  and  a  half  miles  on  a  general  (bourse  northeast  three-fiuarters  north,  aii<l  the 
width  almost  uniform  at  one  and  a  quarter  ndles  to  the  very  head,  where  several 
streams  enter,  among  which  an;  Cooper  Inlet  at  the  northeast,  and  the  river 
Gordon  at  the  north,  where   stands  a  iarge   Indian  village  called  Onismah.* 

*  Name  on  the  Euglifjh  admiralty  cbart,  1847. 


k 


-ppp 


mmmmm 


ii)6 


COAST  PILOT  OP  AVASlIl>'(iTON  TJvTMMTOllY. 


Across  tilt'  ciitriiiicf'  a  di-plh  of  tt'U  ratlioiiis  is  1'oiiihI,  rxccpt  near  Obsci'vatoiy 
]!(»cUs,*  ('lost!  to  wiiicli  scvcntci'U  I'atlioins  arc  round.  Outside  we  lind  troni 
iiliccn  to  twenty,  and  inside  the  l)otloni  is  v«'i>  rejiular  in  seven  to  ten  fatlioni.s 
111'  '•'  ''"'  li<'i'<l)  wlieif  ii  diiTcasfs  e\enl.v  to  lour,  witiiin  liall'  a  mile  of  the  slioie. 
Tlu' eastern  side  has  the  U'asf  i  iiniber  of  rocks,  and  a  ini<l-eliaiinel  coarse  (dears 
('veryliiinfi  well.  In  heavy  southerly  weather  a  swell  rolls  stra!<iht  in,  hut  hy 
anchoring  well  np  on  either  side  vessels  avoid  it.  The  side,>  ,■,::■  ;.;ee]t,  hiuh,  and 
backed  hy  heavily  tinii)er((l  hills  and  nmnntains.  In  \ery  dear  weather  it  is 
dithcult  to  distinguish  the  entrance  at  a  distance,  unless  one  is  ac(iuainted  with 
the  locality,  hut  in  moderatelv  lia/.v  weatlier  the  "ndenlation  is  readily  made  out. 
The  approxiiuate  j;'e,o<iTaphical  position  of  Observatory  .liocjks  is: 

O         '         " 

Latitude 4S  .".1  .".(I  north. 

Loujiil  nde iL'l   L'S    !,"»  wesl. 

Meares  lirst  in)ted  this  ba.N  in  his  map,  and  called  the  Avestei'n  jioint  Point 
ilawksbniv,  !)  v\as  afterwards  exaniiutd  by  the  Sjianiards,  and  \'ancon\('r 
stretched  over  to  this  shore  and  plotted  it  on  his  chait.  It  was  snrveved  bv  the 
United  States  explorinj;-  exiiedition,  in  ISll,  and  by  Rellet,  in  ISIT. 

From  Observatory  Rocks  the  shore  preserves  the  same  features,  runninj;'  east 
in  a  straijjht  line  to  SheriM}i;ham  Point*  twentv-three  and  a  half  miles,  ^vilh  somni- 
Mi};;'S  in  iVom  six  to  twei.ty  fathoms  a  nnle  from  shore,  and  in  sonu'  places  ten 
fathoms  at  leas!  two  miles  off,  then  suddenly  dnnipin.n'  into  iifly  and  sixty 
fathoms.  Fi-om  Sherinj;hani  Point,  on  an  east  iialf  north  course  to  Otter  Point* 
the  distance  i^'  four  and  a  half  miles,  with  a  curve  in  the  shore  of  one  r:ile,  but 
the  shore  is  jicnerally  .so  unitbrm  in  its  chaiacter  that  it  is  hard  to  recoj^ni/.e  these 
jioints  in  sailing  close  abreast  <jf  them. 

Hooici;  i>;t.f,t. 

From  Sln^rinsliam  Point  to  Peechey  Head*  the  dkstanee  is  eleven  and  a  half 
miles,  and  the  course  east  one-(piarter  n(»rth.  The  shore  is  varied  by  an  indentat  ion 
one  ndle  dee[i,  called  So.ike  Pay,  and,  at  a  distance  of  four  nules  from  Otter  Point, 
is  lu'oken  by  a  ver.v  narrow,  eiookcd  entrajiee.  Avhich  is  Sooke  Inlet.  This  leads  to 
a  lav^i'e  sheet  of  N\ater  three  miles  inland,  called  8ooke  Basin.  One  mile  east  of 
this  iniet  is  a  larjic  islet,  called  Secretary  ishind,*  ai.d  om  the  western  side  is  a 
bright  yellow  bluff,  from  which  makes  out  a  Ijvv  sand  spit  northeast  for  half  a  nnlo 
across  the  entrance.  To  the  east  ard  of  this  spit  is  the  i»assaf;e,  only  one  or  two 
hund'.ed  vards  wide,  with  an  irrcf^ular  and  locky  bottom,  ami  sonu-  :  ";<'cen  rocks. 
The  cnrvents  run  with  j>Teat  vdocity,  ami  a  thonuigh  knowledge  of  ,hes('  ard  the 
channel  is  ue.-essary  to  enter  this  place.  When  a  depth  of  ten  fathoms  is  struck 
(Mf  the  entiiMH'c,  a  high  ''ill,  calleil  Mould  Alaginre,*  will  "i<ear  about  northeast. 
It  is  [>aitiali>  covered  with  trees,  hut  the  bare  rock  shows  dislinctlv  in  many 
places,  and  this  fealurt  now  ;  ommences  to  distinguish  the  .southeast  part  of  Van 

■  Niiiiic  nil  till'  iMiijlish  i((hiiii:iltv  i-luirl,  l-'IT. 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WABJlIN(JTOX  TEllRlTOEY. 


11)7 


)lKSt'rviit(try 
i  lijid  \\\\m 
I'll  tUtlioins 

I'   the  sin (IV. 

;)iiivso  clears 
in,  luit  l)y 
',  lii.uh,  iiiid 
iitlKT  it  is 
liiitcd  witli 
liiuk'  uiit. 

!(>  iKirtli. 

•"»  M<'S|. 

mut  Point 
\'iiiic(>iiv('r 
vcd  h,v  tlie 

iniiiip-  oasf 
illi  souini- 
j)iiU'cs  ten 
!»iid  sixty 
ter  P(.iiit* 
1  :il(",  bid 
iiiz<'  (Iicso 


iiid  a  lialf 
dciitafioii 
^el•  Poiid, 
s  leads  to 
It"  CilSt  of 
side  is  a 
lilt"  a  mile 
le  or  two 
I'll  rocks. 
'  iird  the 
is  struck 
iM'tlicast. 
ill  many 
">('  N'aii- 


coiivcr  Island.  The  shore  in  many  ]>hices  is  bare  and  rocky,  with  ]Kitchcs  of  land 
covered  with  fern  ■  <1  destitute  of  trees,  and  the  houses  of  settlers  beyiii  to 
sipjiear. 

Otf  Ueechey  Head  the  Avater  is  very  deep,  and  the  currents  ^^a  hy  with  a  rush. 
In  this  vicinity  a  t^iiitcd  States  reveiiue-ciitter  touched  the  bohl  shore  with  her 
ll.viiifi- jiliboom,  and  struck  only  her  forefoot  after  tlie  jib-boom  had  been  cairied 
away. 

The  approximate  geojAraphieal  position  of  lieechey  Head  is: 

Latitude 48  IS  m  north. 

Loiifiitiide 12.3  ;j!)  27  west. 

The  proimuciation  of  Sooke  is  exactly  like  that  of  the  English  word  "soak."' 
The  Indian  word  is  T'sok. 

]>eecher  Day*  lies  to  the  eastward  of  Beocliey  TTead.  Its  general  direction  is 
north,  for  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  width  about  the  same,  and  the  bottom  is  rocky 
and  irregular,  with  dce]»  water.  ]\Iany  rocky  isU'ts  are  found  iijxni  the  eastern 
side  of  the  bay,  and  two  large  ones  at  the  northern  jiart.  The  channel  runs 
between  thes<'  with  about  twenty  fathoms,  and  with  from  seven  to  ten  fathoms 
beyond  tlie  eastern  one.  Tlie  eastern  head  is  formed  by  (.'ape  Churcli.*  This  bay 
is  incloseil  by  high,  rocky  hills. 

HACK   KOf'KS. 

From  r.eechey  Head  tiie  outermost  of  these  rocky  islets  bears  cast  by  'lortli, 
distant  li\('  miles,  a'ld  its  distance  from  Deiitinck  Island,*  chise  under  the  main 
shore,  is  one  mile.  This  cluster  of  islets  numbers  about  ten  principal  ones,  which 
coxer  an  area  of  not  less  than  half  a  mile  sipiare.  They  are  low,  and  the  larger 
ones  are  covered  witii  grass,  but  are  without  trees  or  bushes.  Stretching  s.aith- 
east  from  tiiem  for  half  a  mile  the  liottom  is  irregular,  with  jioints  of  rock  in 
live  fathoms.  The  currents  rush  by  with  great  velocity  and  irregularity,  attain- 
ing a  rate  of  six  miles  jicr  liour.  as  we  have  measured  by  the  Massey  h»g.  This 
is  a  bad  place  for  sailing  vessels  when  tin' airs  are  light.  The  L'ace  Clmniicl 
lies  between  the  liace  l?oeks  and  J5entiiick  island,  and  is  nearly  half  ii  mile  wide. 
See  reinarks  in  the  directions  for  Es(piimalt  and  Victoria  Harbors  from  the  Kace 
Ivocks. 

LIOnT-HOtTSE  ON  KACE  noCICS. 

The  tower  on  the  Great  Race  has  an  elevation  of  one  hundred  and  eighteen 
feet  above  high  water,  and  since  the  tirst  day  of  Octolu'r  ISlit,  has  lieeii  paintcil 
in  alternatt'  broad  horizontal  bands  of  l)lack  and  white. 

The  liglit  is  a  ivhHc  li(jlit,  slioichtf/  o  hri<jlif  Jht.sh  everv  ten  seconds.     The  ilium 
inating  apparatus  is  of  the  secoinl  order  of  Frcsnel,  and  was  tirst  exhiliited  Jan- 


'Niniin  HI  tlir  I'.iinlisli  inbiiiiiillv  iliiiil.  IS47. 


■HP 


198  COAST  riLOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TERRITOKY. 

uary  1,  1S(>1.  UmU'i'  a  favoraMo  state  of  the  atiiios]»li(.n'(>  it  should  1h'  seen  t'lom  a 
beife^lit  of — 

10  feet  at  a  distanco  of  1(1.1  miles. 

L'O  feet  at  a  distaiiee  of  17.0  miles. 

."()  feet  at  a  distaiiee  of  18.S  miles. 

The  <i-eoj;i'ai)liieal  positiou  of  the  liyht  as  determined  Ity  the  Tiiited  States 
Coast  Survey  is: 

Latitude 4S  J 7  .">!»..■»  north. 

Lonj-itude 123  M  I'.J.O  west. 

h.    m.      K. 

Or,  in  time ...       8  li  ()!..■>. 

Computed  mafrn  'tie  variation  22'^  Of  east  in  JSOl. 

From  r.ace  KoeUs  the  strait  opens  to  the  northward,  and  wi'  have  the  follow- 
ing bearings  and  distiinees  to  several  imi)ortant  positions: 

Escpiiinalt  IFarbor  light,  north  eight  and  a  half  miles. 

Entrance  of  Victoria  Harbor,  north  by  east  half  east,  nine  miles. 

Triiil  Jshinds,  northeast  by  north,  ten  and  a  half  miles. 

Discovery  Island,  northea.st  by  north,  liftet.i  miles. 

Smith's  Island  light,  northeast  by  east  three-^iuarters  east,  twenty-six  and  a. 
half  miles. 

New  Dnngeness  light,  east  eighteen  miles. 

Ediz  Hook  light,  southeast  three-(iuarters  east,  ten  and  a  half  miles. 

From  IJace  Itocks  the  shore  is  very  much  broken  to  Fs(|uiinait  llarltor.  lirst 
by  a  narrow  deep  inch'iitation  called  Tedder  Bay,*  its  inatiiern  i»oint  called 
William  Head;*  then  Farry  IJay*  and  Albert  Head;*  and  just  before  reaching 
Esquimau,  a  long,  low  s])it,  with  a  salt  lagoon  behind  it.  Along  this  shore  the 
ebb  cnrrent  runs  with  great  strength,  the  water  being  from  forty  to  lil'ty  fathoms 
deep,  and  the  general  set  towards  the  l{ace  Islands. 

DIllKCTIONS  FOU  FSQUIMALT  AND   VICTORIA  IIAKBOR.S  FROM  TUE    RACE  ROCKS. 

The  Race  Rocks  tower  can  be  distinctly  seen  at  a  distance  of  twelve  miles. 
On  nearing  it,  vessels  should  round  it  at  a  distance  of  not  less  than  from  half  ,i 
laile  to  a  mile.  The  outeiniost  danger  is  a  rocky  ])atch  of  live  feet,  lying  south- 
east by  east,  nearly  half  a  mile  from  the  tower. 

On  rouiuling  the  Rocks  Escpiimalt  Harbor  lixed  Avhite  light  Mill  be  seen,  and 
should  be  steered  tor  on  a  bearing  north  half  west,  which  will  lead  clear  of  the 
reef  extenditig  a  short  distance  olV  Albert  Head.  Iveej)  the  bright  white  light  in 
full  view.  If  a  vessel  gets  loo  far  to  the  westward  it  will  api)ear  dim,  and  shortly 
become  sliadcd  (/nrii.  when  she  sjionld  immediately  steei'  to  tlm  eastward  until  it 
again  shows  blight.  This  precaution  is  necessary  an  account  of  Hie  i'lirrents, 
which,  during  sluing  tides,  run  as  niucli  as  six  knots  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 

"Nitiiic  (III  tlio  English  lulmiralty  ihai1, 1847. 


' 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TER^JITORY. 


199 


Eace  Eof'ks.  The  ('T)b  runs  almost  in  a  direct  lin;>  from  the  Canal  do  Ilaro  to  the 
rocks,  and  sets  between  tlieiu  and  the  sliore.  There  arc  also  tide  rips  in  tho 
vicinity  dangerous  to  boats  and  small  craft. 

Wlien  to  the  northward  of  Albei't  Head,  and  wishin<;-  to  anchor  in  lioyal  T.ay, 
a  vessel  should  brin<;- Esquimalt  !ij;lit  (o  be;!!-  north  by  west,  wlien  she  will  havvi 
ten  fathoms,  with  yood  holding-  ground,  about  one  mile  from  tlie  ligiit;  or,  if 
desired,  she  may  stand  to  the  westward  until  the  light  becomes  shaded  green, 
■when  she  should  immcUdtch/  anclior. 

In  entering  Esriuimalt  Harbor,  the  light  should  be  left  from  three  to  four 
hundred  yards  on  the  port  haml,  and  when  it  bears  south  by  west  a  ship  may 
anchor  in  seven  fathoms,  or  stand  into  Constance  Cove,  (N'illage  Eay.)  AN'Ihmi  tho 
light  bears  northwest  by  west  it  changes  from  bright  white  to  red,  and  shows  tho 
hitter  color  in  the  harbor. 

In  entering  Esquimalt  from  the  eastward,  the  light  sliould  not  be  steered  for 
until  it  shows  lu'igiit  white,  which  is  the  mark  for  clearing  Erotchy  Ledge  olf 
Victoria,  and  Scrogy  Eocks  off  Esipiimalt.  When  the  light  changes  from  red 
to  bright  white  it  leads  clear  of  the  Scrogy  Eocks  about  one  hundred  and  twenty 
yards. 

The  course  for  the  entrance  to  Victoi-ia  Harbor,  aft  'r  rounding  the  Eace 
i-'-ht.  is  north  three-quarters  east;  and  when  Es<iuimalt  light  changes  from 
•  ■  ight  Avhite  to  red,  a  vessel  will  be  one  mile  from  tin-  shore  in  thirty-three 
fathoms. 

Ships,  however,  above  the  size  of  coasters,  unless  ac(iuainted  with  tlm 
neighborhood,  are  recommended  not  to  run  for  Victoria  at  night,  when  thev 
cannot  enter,  but  rather  to  anclun-  in  Eoyal  Bay  for  daylight.  With  southeasters 
and  stormy  weather  a  ship  should  invariably  run  into  Es(|uimalt  Ilarlior,  which 
she  can  readily  do  with  the  assistance  of  the  light  on  Eisgard  Island. 

The    light-house    is    erected    on    Eisgard    Island,   on    the    western    side   of 
the  entrance  to  Escpumalt  Harboi'.     It  consists  of  a  keeper's  dwelling  of  brick 
with  a  tower  fifty-seven  feet  in  height,  whitewashed,  and  surmounted  l)y  a  lantern 
l)ainted  red. 

The  i'Huminating  apparatus  is  of  the  fourth  order  of  the  system  of  Fivsnel, 
and  shows  a  _fi.irtl  icliilr  liijht,  visible  through  an  arc  of  l.'2()o  of  tiu'  horizon. 
Thiough  -MiP  it  exhibits  a  green  light,  through  Tyi^'^  a  l»right  white  light,  and  tiirougij 
142°  a  red  liigiit.  li  will  show  (fncn  when  beai'ing  lietween  noitli  by  east 
two-thirds  east  and  north  oneciuarter  west,  irhilc  \'von\  north  one-qnarter  west  to 
n.u'thwest  by  west  one-third  west,  and  nd  towards  the  harbor,  or  from  north- 
west by  west  one  third  west  to  south  southeast. 

It  is  jilaced  at  an  elevation  of  seventy  feet  abo\e  (he  IcncI  of  the  sea  at  high 
water,  and  in  favorable  states  of  the  atnu)s|)here  sliould  be  visilde  from  a 
hei«ht  f»r— 

10  feet  at  a  distance  of  I;!.L!  miles. 

Jfi  feet  at  a  dist;     re  of  M.7  miles. 


;gpl 


■■ 


200  COAST  PILOT  OF  WASIIINfJTON  TERlllTOEY. 

Tho  apin'oxiinato  geogTiiphical  position  of  tlic  light  is: 

Latitude 4S  25  .'58  north 

Longitiuhi IL'.'?  1*7  10  west. 

II.      III.        s. 

Or,  in  tinu' 8  13  -18.7. 

Computed  magnetic  variation  22°  05'  east  in  ISGl. 

The  light  was  tirst  exhibited  November  10,  18(50. 

Esquimau  Harbor  is  where  all  the  British  men-of-war  lie,  and  eontains  a  small 
naval  dock-yard,  called  J{o,yal  J'ay.*  The  entrance  is  a  ((uarter  of  a  mile  wide,  and 
has  two  rocky  heads  on  either  hand,  the  westein  head  having  Fisgardf  Island  otV  it, 
and  the  eastern  having  outlying  sunken  rocks  south  of  it,  with  several  islets.  From 
the  entrance  the  general  direction  of  the  bay  is  north-northwest,  and  the  extreme 
length  two  miles.  After  passing  the  heads,  the  harbor  o])ens  to  tiu'  cast, 
foiming  a  small  beautiful  bay,  called  Village  Bay,  or  Ccmstance  Cove,  where 
men-of-war  anchor  in  a  uniform  de])th  of  six  fathoms.  In  the  entrance  are 
seven  and  eight  fathoms,  and  the  approaches  for  a  mile  give  from  ten  to  thirteen 
fathoms. 

At  the  head  of  the  harbor  i."  ]\Ioinit  Seymour.* 

Five  miles  west  of  the  head  of  Es([uimalt  Bay  is  the  head  of  a  large  bay 
conung  from  the  north,  and  openi-g  into  the  inside  channel  to  the;  Nanaimo 
(Nahny'moh)  coal  mines. 

VICTOKIA  IIARROR. 

The  entrance  to  this  haroor  is  two  and  a  quarter  miles  east  of  Escpiimalt. 
As  the  channel  is  very  contracted,  crooked,  and  obstructed  with  a  ten-feet  bar, 
A'essels  usually  anchor  outside  in  ten  or  liltcen  fatlionis,  taking  care  to  avoid 
Brotchy  Ledge,*  with  only  seven  feet  of  water  upon  it,  lying  about  half  a 
nule  south-southeast  of  tin;  eastern  head,  and  soutiiwest  threc-(|uarters  west 
from  Mount  Beacon,*  upon  which  was  a  range  with  one  on  the  shore.  AVe 
believe,  however,  that  the  ledge  has  been  marked  by  a  s])ar  buoy  since  our  visit 
there.  The  i-liainiel  inside  is  well  niarki'd  oiil  by  buoys,  but  a  pilot  is  neeessary  to 
carry  a  vessel  in.  Tlie  wliole  Icnglh  of  tlie  harbor  is  about  tliicc  or  tour  niib  s, 
with  an  avei'age  width  of  one-lit'th  of  a  mih'.  It  is  very  tortuons,  and  the 
head  stretches  west  nearly  to  the  head  of  Ksquimalt  Uay,  where  a  portage 
exists. 

The  ai)proaches  to  the  liaibor  ai'c  deejt  outside  of  Brotfliy  Ledgi\  and  iU'ohi 
ten  to  twenty  fat  bonis  are  Ibiind  inside  of  it.  Tin-  ^iiores  adjacent  uir  lo%,  ^mt 
rocky  and  (overed  in  ]»art  witli  trees,  lemiiidiig  ir:ie  of  the  i'o;k\  parN  ni"  i:fe« 
coast  of  Massachusetts  and  Maine. 

The  United  States  Coast  Survey  est4iUliHhe(l  an  aHtronomieal  ^^aifrmii  on  the 

•Niiiiic  (111  (lie  Kiiirlisli  iidiiiii'iilty  cliiiii,  1H.17. 
tl',n"lisli  cliiiilN  (if  Ir^.")!   (•nii  it   F'isJijiiKiid. 


38  north 
LO  west. 

IS.  7. 


MS  a  siiiiill 
w  i(U',  jiud 
land  off  it, 
ts.  From 
e  extreme 
the  east, 
vo,  Avliere 
vam'Ai  are 
0  thirteen 


large  bay 
2sanaimo 


squimalti 
i-feet  bai', 

to  avoid 
t  iialf  a 
;ers  west 
ore.     We 

oni"  \  isit 
cssar.v  to 
iir  mills, 

and    I  lie 

IKU'tago 

nd  l<!'t»Mi 
h>>*,  iMit 

n  eu  the 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASfimGTON  TERRITORY.  201 

narrow  neck  known  as  Laurel  Point,  at  tlie  south  side  of  the  inner  jiart  of  the 
entrance  to  the  iiarbor.    The  j;('ogTai>iiical  position  of  tliis  station  is: 

Latitude 4S  -jr,  .WAi 

Lonyitu(h' 12;>  L'(»  .JS.T 

li.    III.     «. 
Or,  in  time .S  l;i  L'i*.(! 

The  town  of  Victoria  lias  j^rown  very  rapidly  since  tlie  dcvelo])m('nt  of  the 
j>()ld-(ields  on  Frazir  River,  and  rej^idar  steamers  ply  between  Victoria  and  the 
Columbia  Ri\  er,  port,*  on  Paget  Sound,  and  towns  on  Fra/A-r  Ri\  er. 

TKIAL   ISLANDS. 

These  islands  lie  four  miles  east-southeast  from  the  eutran(;e  of  Victoria 
Iiarbor,  witii  a  rocky,  irregular,  and  ii>"'V  .njly  low  shore.  The  ishinds  are  small 
in  extent  and  about  eighty  feet  hit'i;  tlie  currents  set  by  tlicm  witli  great 
velocity. 

DISCOVKIIV  AND   CHATHAM  ISLANDS. 

The  former  of  these  two  islands  lies  two  and  a  half  miles  olf  the  southeast 
point  of  Vancouver  Island,  ft  is  about  a  niih'  in  extent,  two  hundred  and  tliiity 
feet  high,  partially  covered  with  trees,  and  consists  of  granite  I'ock,  which  shows 
in  places  Avithout  a  ])article  of  vegetation. 

Northwest  of  it,  and  separated  by  a  narrow  and  intricate  channel  full  of 
rocks,  lies  Chatham  Island,  ((Composed  of  several  small  islets,)  s(»mewliat  smaller 
in  extent,  and  not  so  high  as  Discovery  Ishuid,  but  simihir  in  appearance  and  for- 
mation. Ijctween  these  two  islands  and  Vancouver  lies  an  extensive!  bay  nearly 
iilled  with  rocks  and  •eefs,  the  main  bod.v  being  called  the  (.'hain  Islands,  which 
are  about  thirty  fe(»t  high.  (Jlose  around  the  western  side  of  Discovery  and  Chat- 
ham is  a  chaniu'l,  having  I'rom  seven  to  seventeen  fathoms,  but  it  is  only  lit  for 
small  craft.  From  the  western  i)art  of  Chatham  to  Cadbiu'ough  Point  the 
distance  is  about  tliree-(piarters  of  a  mile.  Numerous  rocks  sliow  close  to  the 
point. 

The  United  States  Coast  Survey  have  a  trigonometrical  station  on  the  sum- 
mit of  Discovery  Island.     Its  geographical  position  is: 

Latitiuh' 48  2.j  SUA 

Longitude VS.i  l.'{  (10.5 

h.    III.      n. 

Or,  in  time s  U)  r>-2A 

A  light-house  is  much  needed  upon  Discovery  Lsland,  as  uiarking  the  soutl|- 
west  point  of  the  southern  entrance  to  the  Canal  de  Ilaro. 

The  islaiiils  were  named  by  Kellett,  after  Vancouver's  two  sliijis. 
20* 


'4  fT' 


202 


COxiST  PILOT  or  WASHINGTON  TEHKITOIIY. 


SMITHS   ISLAND. 

The  only  isliiiul  lying'  broadly  in  the  Hlrnit  ot'Fuca  is  Smith's  Island,  near  the 
eastern  termination  of  the  strait,  within  six  miles  of  Whidbcy  Island,  and  seven 
miles  broad  oft"  the  scmthern  entrance  to  the  Kosario  Stiait.  It  is  (jnite  small,  not 
oeenpying'  half  a  square  mile,  and  rises  regularly  from  the  eastern  to  the  western 
extremity,  where  it  attains  a  height  of  about  fifty-live  feet,  Avith  an  almost  per- 
l)endieular  clitf  of  clay  and  gravel.  It  sustained  a  few  dreary  looking  trees,  but 
none  of  great  thickness  or  height,  and  the  surface  is  covered  witli  a  growth  of 
bushes  ten  or  twelve  feet  high.  There  is  no  fresh  watei'  to  be  found  ou  the  island, 
and  two  or  three  feet  below  the  surface  is  a  stratum  of  hard,  dry  clay  with 
pebbles. 

A  Aery  small,  low  islet  called  Minor,*  exists  one  mile  northeast  of  Smith's 
Island,  and  at  very  low  tides,  is  connected  with  it  by  a  luirrow  ridge  ,ji  boulders 
and  rocks.  A  field  of  kelp  extends  to  the  Avestward  of  Smitii's  Island  for 
oiu'  and  a  half  miles,  and  has  a  Avidth  of  a  mile.  In  sailing  tlirough  this 
field  Ave  finind  the  depth  of  Avater  very  uniform  at  six  and  a  half  fathoms,  and 
in  no  J). .ice  did  Ave  get  less.  The  bottom  is  hard  and  sandy,  and  no  rocks 
have  been  discovered  in  it.  Another  smaller  field  is  seen  to  the  Avestward  of  the 
one.just  nientioiu'd.  (jood  anchorage  is  found  on  the  nortli  side  of  the  islaml,  east 
of  the  kelj),  in  from  ten  to  five  fathoms,  and  on  the  south  side,  east  of  the  kelp, 
in  from  ten  to  eight  fathoms,  hard  bottom.  We  parted  our  cable  here  in  a 
southeast  gale,  but  the  smooth  sandy  bottom  enabled  us  afterwards  to  secure  the 
anchor.  Off  the  eastern  end  of  the  small  islet,  very  deej)  water  is  tbund  close  to 
shore, 

LKIHT-HOUSE  ON  SMITH'S  ISLAND. 


This  stiucture  consists  of  a  keeper's  dwelling,  Avitli  a  tower  rising  through 
it,  and  surmounted  by  an  iron  lantern  painted  red.  Its  height  is  forty-one 
and  a  half  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  grount, ,  and  about  ninety  feet  above  the 
mean  level  of  the  sea.  Tlie  dwelling  and  towc  are  plastered  and  whitewashed, 
and  situated  on  the  highest  part  of  the  islaml,  near  the  southwest  jioint. 
All  the  trees  lune  bcjn  cut  down  to  allord  a  clear  horiz  •n  in  every  direc- 
tion. The  illuminating  apparatus  is  of  the  fourth  order  of  Fresii<'l,  shows  a 
rcvolriii;;  irhite  Uyht^  with  a  Jiash  ccenj  half  minute,  and  shoulil  Ite  seen  from  a 
height  of — 

10  feet  at  a  distance  of  14i  miles. 

20  feet  at  a  distance  of  10  i\iiU's. 

'M)  feet  at  a  distance  of  17  miles. 

It  was  first  exhibited  on  the  18th  of  Oetober  1858,  and  shows  from  sunset  to 
sunrise. 


Niiiiii'il  Ity  till?  Uiiiti'd  Sj^itfH  Coimt  .Survt'v  in  lf*54. 


1,  iH'iir  tlie 
iiiid  scvcu 
small,  not 
U'  wcstpiu 
111  lost  jier- 
trct's,  but 
j^rowtli  of 
'lie  island, 
clay  Avith 

af  Siiiitli's 
f  boulders 
slaiid  for 
wiijili  this 
lonis,  and 

no  rocks 
ii'd  of  the 
land,  cast 

the  kelp, 
lierc  in  a 
secure  tho 
d  close  to 


■  through 
forty-one 
d)ove  the 
ewashed, 
st  jioint. 
'ry  dire(!- 
shows  ii 
n  from  a 


sunset  to 


COAST  PILOT  OF  \VASJIIX(JTON  TKKIUTOKY.  203 

The  {jeo{irai)hi(!al  position  of  the  light,  as  determined  by  the  Coast  Survey  is : 

Latitude 48  1!)  11.0  north. 

Longitude Jl,'2  r»0  1  LI  west. 

h.    m.      K. 
Or,  in  time 8  11  liO.T 

The  light  shows  into  the  entrances  of  Canal  de  ilaro,  Rosario  Strait,  and 
Admiralty  Lilet,  and  out  into  the  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca. 

The  following  bearings  and  distances  will  show  the  relative  position  ol'  Smith's 
Island: 

F^rom  Discovery  Lsland  it  lies  east  .sixteen  and  a  half  miles. 

From  L'ace  Island  light,  northeast  by  east  three-cpuirters  east  twenty-six  and 
a  half  miles. 

From  ^o\v  ])ungenes.s  light,  northeast  by  north  thirteen  and  two-thirds  miles. 

From  Point  Wilson,  northwest  half  ncnth  eleven  miles. 

From  southwest  point  of  the  entrance  to  Itosario  Strait,  south  half  east  six 
and  two-thirds  miles. 

This  island  was  discovered  by  Eliza  in  1701,  and  named  Isla  de  Bonilla. 

Vancouver  gave  it  no  name. 

It  was  called  JUunt's  Island  by  the  United  States  exph)ring  expedition  in 
1S41. 

Called  Smith's  Island  on  the  English  admiralty  chart  of  1847,  and  is  geu- 
erally  known  by  either. 

BAKKS   A>'D   FIELDS   OF   KELP    IN   STRAIT   OF   FUCA. 

Partridfjc  Bank. — Three  miles  south  half  east  of  Smith's  Island,  is  the  north- 
Avesteru  jioint  of  a  tield  of  kelp  over  a  mile  long  by  a  mile  wide.  Through  it 
the  soundings  range  from  six  to  twelve  fathoms,  and  the  Imnk  stretches  off  to  the 
east-southeast  for  two  miles,  with  ten  and  twelve  fathoms  upon  it.  It  is  on  tho 
prolongation  of  the  shore  line  from  Admiralty  Head  to  Point  Partiidge,  and  with- 
out doubt  a  ]>art  of  the  shoal  stretching  five  miles  west  three-quarters  north  from 
that  point.  Inside  tlu'  kelp  it  is  generally  known  as  a  ten-fathom  bank,  with 
Bimldy  bottom.  We  have  run  across  it  with  these  soundings,  but  recent  [tartial 
examinations  show  spots  with  live  and  nine  fathoms  ujion  it.  This  locality 
re(]uires  sounding  out,  as  it  would  lu'ove  a  great  advantage  for  vessels  drifting  at 
the  mercy  of  the  currents  to  know  of  the  existence  of  such  anchoring  grounds. 
The  detaihul  hydrography  of  all  this  sheet  of  water,  eastward  of  the  llace  Islands, 
will  dcNi'lo]!  many  interesting  features  of  bottom. 

Hem  littkk. — IJeariug  Avest  half  south  from  Smith's  Island,  and  eight  miles 
distant,  is  another  Held  of  keli»  nearly  a  mile  in  extt'iit.  We  came  unexpectedly 
u]>on  it  at  night,  in  18.")4,  during  a  heavy  blow  with  rain.  It  was  not  then 
marked  on  any  chart.  Next  morning  we  sounded  through  it,  and  found  the  depth 
of  water  \  ery  uniform  at  live  fathoms,  with  hard,  saudy  bottom. 


^mn 


mm 


204 


COxVST  PILOT  OF  AV'ASIIIMJTON  TERUlTOltV, 


l'<^('<Mit  i)iirtiiil  cxiniiiiiutioiis  show  that  this  fit'hl  iiiiirlvs  tho  iiorthoast  jcnt  of 
tlic  hank  lyiii;:'  nearly  north  and  sontli,  witli  a  h'nj;tli  of  four  niiU's,  and  a  hrcadtli 
of  one  and  a  lialf  inih'  witliin  llir  limits  of  the  twenty-fat honi  line,  and  tliat  the 
least  water  found  aiaoiiu'  ttie  kelp  is  three  and  a  half  fathoms,  where  IMuut's 
Tshiiid  lij^ht  hears  ahont  east  Iiveei,i4htlis  north  and  New  Dnnjicness  altout  south 
T»y  east  (|uarter  east. 

We  mimed  this  hank  in  lS,"iL 

III  the  l]u,i;lisli  Admiralty  Ciiait  No.  1017,  j)id)lishe(l  in  1S(m,  it  is  called 
Ponte  Ihink. 

The  field  hiid  d(»wii  on  the  admiralty  chart  of  1817 — nearly  on  this  course, 
and  lour  miles  from  Hinitli's  Island,  liavinj;'  only  two  fathoms  marked  upon  it — 
has  been  soii^^ht  for,  hut  not  louiid,  it  is  not  laid  down  on  the  IJritish  Admiralty 
("hart  No.  I'.HI,  with  corrections  to  1S(m. 

)S((Ii)i()H  Bidil: — One  mile  south  of  the  southeastern  point  of  San  Juan  Island, 
and  eiyht  and  a  half  miles  northwest  by  west  oiie-(piarter  west  from  Smith's 
Island,  lies  a  small  lield  of  kelp,  about  half  a  mih^  square,  with  rliret,  fathoms 
marked  upon  it;  but  we  have  been  intbrmed  that  the  Hudson  !>ay  Com- 
l)aiiy''s  steaiiu'r  Otter  found  as  little  as  siv  feet  of  water  within  its  limits.  Jieceiit 
t^xaminati'Mis  show  that  this  is  oonnected  by  a  four-fatliom  hank  with  the  south- 
east end  of  Sail  .luan  Island,  and  stretches  sourh-soiitheast  therefrom  tor  two  and 
a  half  miles,  with  a  breadth  of  three-quarters  of  a  mile  within  the  limit  of  the 
ten-fathom  line. 

All  these  fields  and  patches  of  kelj)  should  be  avoided,  as  they  denote  rocky 
bottom;  and  isolated  jioints  of  rock  frequently  exist  anion};'  them,  and  escapes 
oven  a  very  scrutini/iii};'  survey. 

Middle  JUiiil; — East  by  north  five  and  a  half  miles  from  Discovery  Island,  and 
>snuth  by  west  one-third  west  four  and  a  half  miles  from  the  Jludson  Ihiy  Com- 
pany's settlement  (»n  San  Juan  Island,  is  an  eleven-fathom  shoal,  a  mile  or  two  iii 
extent;  but  the  very  few  soundiiifjjs  upon  it  leave  the  precise  extent  and  smallest 
depth  of  water  doubtful,  (1S,">7.) 

Iiccent  i)artial  examinations  show  that  the  extent  of  this  bank  is  about  two 
and  a  half  sipiare  miles  witliin  the  limits  of  the  twenty-fathom  line. 

Coitstaiur  Bmil:, — Northeast  half  north  seven  and  a  half  miles  from  Ivaeo 
Ivoeks,  and  southeast  by  south  tour  miles  from  the  entranoe  to  Victoria  Harbor,  aro 
n  couple  of  spots  showini;  nine  and  thirteen  fathoms. 

AUCIIirELAGO   1)E   IIAUO   IN   WASIIINCrTON   SOT'ND. 

This  extensive  i>ronp  of  islands  was  first  seen  by  Lopez  (lon/.ales  de  Ilaro,  in 
17.S0;  next  by  (^uimper,  in  171)(>;  and  first  circuinnavi}:;ated  by  Don  Francisco 
Eliza,  in  17!>1.  Vancimver,  in  17!>2,  ])assed  throunih  the  Hosario  Strait  from  the 
south,  anil  ,ui^es  a  jiood  representation  of  the  clianiiel  and  islands,  his  loats  evi- 
dently woikinji' amonu' them,  (laliano  and  Vahles,  in  I71IL.*,  about  a  month  later 
than  Vancouver,  j)assed  thi'oii;ili  one  of  the  straits  from  the  north,  and  rei>resented 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TEERITOKY. 


2or) 


tlic  muss  of  isliiTids  as  one  wliicli  tlicy  (losiji'iiiitt'd  Isla  do  San  Juan.  Tlio  a^rcnts 
and  Cactors  of  the  Hudson  Bay  (company,  donhtlcss,  knew  most  of  the  channels 
and  islands  snbseqncntly;  still,  up  to  is.-i.!,  they  cxliihitcd  only  cye-skctclics  of  the 
Canal  de  llai'o,  noMh  and  east  of  Sidney  Island.  In  1811,  the  Cnited  States 
exi»lorin,i;  e\pediti<»ii  made  the  reconnaissance  of  the  archiiu'la^o,  but  did  not  lay 
down  I  lie  islands  on  the  western  side  of  tlii' Canal  de  llaro.  The  IJosiirio  Sliait 
was  .su\veyed,  and  called  IJinjfji'old's  Channel.  Most  of  liie  islands,  cliannels, 
]ioinls,  vS;c.,  were  mimed  after  ollicers  and  vessels  of  the  navy,  and  it  is  said  to 
have  been  intended  to  call  the  whole  j;roup  the  Navy  Archi])ela,i;().  The  Canal  de 
Ilaro  is  crioneously  called  the  Canal  de  Arro. 

The  Canal  de  Ilaro  and  Itosario  Strait  were  surveyed  by  the  Cnited  States 
Coast  Snr\<'v  in  JS,->.'!  and  IS-lt. 


CANAL   1)1 :   II AUG. 

The  southern  entrauco  to  this  strait  may  be  said  to  lie  between  Discoveiy  Island 
and  the  j,.)int  of  iJellevue  or  San  .Inau  Island,*  nearly  noi'theast  and  seven  miles 
distant.  Starting  from  this  lim>,  and  about  three  miles  from  Discovery,  a  course 
northwest  by  uoith  for  sixteen  miles  will  run  throuuii  the  lirst  stretch  of  the  strait; 
thence  an  abrupt  turn  is  inade  towards  the  eastwaid,  and  the  way  out  can  be 
readily  seen  between  the  islands.  The  next  course  is  northeast  half  east  for 
eleven  miles;  finally,  north-uorthwest  two  and  a  half  miles;  and  a  run  of  seven 
miles  on  that  course  will  cany  a  vessel  into  the  middle  of  the  (iulf  of  (leor^ia. 

Commencinjj'  at  the  startinj;'  point,  we  have  San  Juan  Lshtml  on  the  eastward, 
and  ])ass  it  at  the  distance  of  one  and  a  half  miles.  Its  mountains  rise  (o  one 
thousand  and  seventy  feet,  and  sonu'  of  them  are  only  partially  cov<'red  with 
wood.  The  l)lulfs  are  very  precipitous  and  inaccessible,  and  the  dei)th  of  Avater 
close  to  them  is  as  much  is  one  hundred  and  titty  fathoms.  The  yi;  ater 
extent  of  the  strait  is  to  the  westward,  stretchiuft'  olf  into  bays  and  itassaj^-es 
amonj;'  the  islands.  Cordova  Bai/i  is  the  only  available  anchorajio  about  this 
entrance.  It  commences  at  Cordon  Head  live  and  a  half  miles  northwest  by 
Avest  one-quarter  west  from  Discovery  Island;  then  stretches  westward  for  two 
miles,  and  gradually  curv(>s  to  tlu'  north-northwest,  with  a  long  high  blutl',  broken 
and  bright,  a,.  Coirichin  llcad.X  Ijack  of  the  southwest  pait  of  the  bay  rises  a  bold 
rocky-toi)i)ed  hill  named  .l/o»»^ />o»///«,s'§  which  reaches  a  height  of  six  hundred 
and  tiiiu'ty  feet.  Fresh  water  is  obtainable  on  the  southern  slun'os  of  the  bay. 
The  northern  limit  of  the  bay  is  Barey  Inland,^  north  one-quarter  west  four  miles 
from  Cordon  Head,  and  on  this  course,  and  oiu'  and  three-(juarters  miles  from  the 
head,  is  Zero  h'ock,i  a  small  white  rock,  showing  a  IVw  h'ct  above  watci',  with  jtlenty 
of  water  around  it,  but  foul  bottom  and  a  patch  of  kelp  a  few  hundred  yards  north- 


*\iiiiii'(l  Siiii  JiiMii  cm  Kii;;lisli  mlniiriilty  cImiIs  of  1SI7  ;uiil  l-^.')'.»:   lii-llcviic  hy  Ilic  HihIshu    liMy 
Coniliiiuy  ;   Ko(l;;i'rs  by  the  I'liitcd  Sr.itcs  (•\^ll(>^ill<^■  rxitcditioii,  1^11. 

tEiiiilisli  iidiniriiltx  cliiirl,  I>'ir.     On  thiit  ofl-.V.I  Cmildsa  Buy  is  rnUcd  ('(.niKiraiil  liny. 
t  Fi-oiii  the  11:11111'  111'  llir  IiidiMii  tiilir  ill  lliis  viiiiiily.     .\diiiii:illy  iIkiiI,  l^l7. 
j  Ailiiiiriilty  iliart,  istT. 


20(5 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASIIINGTOX  TEUIMTOIIV. 


iiortliwcst  of  it.  A  mile  iiiid  ;i  fimutcr  west  of  it  is  ;i  smikcii  lock.  In  llic  itiiy  ;i 
(li'ptli  of  not  over  t\v('iit\  riillioiiis  is  foiiiKl,  dccrriisiii.^' iircj;ii!;iii.v  in  a<lv;iiicin;;', 
but  in  tiio  southern  portion  iilVordin^'  ciipiliii  iioldinji;'  in  ten  rutlionis.  A  mile  iind 
a  hidrt'i'st  soiitiiciist  from  (lordon  Head  arc  iiatclicsof  kelp  and  foul  iiottoni. 

Wlieii  eiiilil  and  a  lialf  miles  within  the  entiaiM-e  the  width  of  tiie  strait 
decreases  to  three  and  a  cpiarter  miles,  haviii}"'  Darcy  Islaiul  (low  and  wooded)  on 
the  Mcst,  Avitli  a  snudi  islet  off  its  uortlieast  face,  and  very  lar^ic  lields  of  kcli> 
strelehin,ii' far  olf  the  southeast  point  into  the  canal.  In  one  of  tlu'se  lields  we  dis- 
(■oveved  in  IS.VI  a  sliarp-jiointed  rock,  whi-li  has  been  iianu-d  (';(/7  h'acl:.*  It  lies 
east  l>y  south  live-ei;;liths  south  from  the  southeast  i)oint  of  Darcy  Island,  and  dis- 
tant from  it  tliree-(|uarters  of  a  nnle.  The  saudI,  sharp  ajx'v  of  this  rock  rises 
about  three  feet  above  the  very  lowest  tides.  In  recent  charts  deep  water  is  placed 
around  it,  and  when  the  Coast  Survey  brig'  ranntleroy  beat  throuj;h  the  IW-ld,  the 
existence  of  this  dauj;'er  was  unknown. 

Since  this  discovery  several  rocks,  coveriuj;'  a  s])ace  of  half  a  mile  s(niare,  on 
the  same  bearinj;'  from  the  southeast  ])oint  of  Darcy  Island,  have  been  found. 
They  are  marked  by  a  Held  of  kelp,  and  oiu'  jtoint  uncovers  at  the  lowest  tides. 
Xear  nud-chaunel  a  dei)th  of  one  liundrccl  and  lifty-live  fathoms  is  found. 

The  island  to  tlu'  eastward,  nearly  abroa.st  of  Darcy,  with  a  small  cove  at  its 
southern  end,  is  Jlcnrii  .Island^  havinj;'  a  hij;h,  rocky,  precipitous  front,  and  a  swirl- 
inj;' current  around  it.  Further  on,  and  to  the  westward,  is  the  southeast  eml  of 
lSi(l)i('!f  Lshdtdl  one  and  a  half  miles  niuthward  of  Darcy,  with  the  Dot  IJocks 
between  them,  but  near  Sidney.  This  island  is  not  hi,i.',h  like  those  on  the  other 
si(h'  of  the  clianuel,  and  a  landinii'  is  easily  made  at  any  |)oint.  The  channel  here, 
ten  ndles  from  the  entrance,  is  two  and  tlirce-(jnarter miles  wi(h'.  To  the  eastward 
it  ojuMis  beyond  the  north  end  of  Henry  Island,  with  high  nu)untaiu()us  islands 
bounding  the  view.  To  the  westward  lie  a  couple  of  long,  narrow  islands,  a  mile 
from  Sidney  Islaiul,  and  between  them  and  the  latter  is  good  anchorage,  and  ca])i- 
tal  lishing  ground  for  halibut.  The  island  lu'ar  the  eamd  is  named  llalibut  Island.* 
The  nioderatel.x  low,  wooded  islands,  llvree  or  four  miles  ahead,  and  on  the  western 
side  of  the  channel,  have  not  been  named,  lietween  them  runs  the  inside  channel 
for  steamers  to  ^^anaiuu»  coal  miiu'S.  The  background  of  the  view  is  occupied  by 
wooded  islands,  (nerliippiug  each  other  and  appearing  lik(!  a  continuous  shore. 
The  large  high  island  on  the  (sastern  side,  lifteen  miles  from  the  entraiu'e,  is  Stuart 
J.s7rt)u/,t  and  the  canal  is  here  contracted  to  a  breadth  of  oidy  two  miles,  this  being 
the  narrowest  part.  T-.iO ami  one-eighth  iniles  west-southwest  fr.>m  the  western 
point  of  Stuart  Island,  the  IJritish  surveying  steamer  I'bunper  found  (l.S.")S)  a  rock 
covered  at  a  (piarter  Hood,  ami  having  irregular  bottom  around  it  for  the  space  of 
half  a  mile  s(pian',  with  soundings  from  live  to  twenty  fathoms.  One  mile  north- 
west of  Stuart  Island  a  depth  of  one  hundred  and  ninety  fathoms  is  found. 

Stuart  Island,  in  many  places,  is  very  high  and  precipitous,  and  covered  with 


*Xaiii.il  li,\  llu'  riiitcd  .States  Coast  Survey,  1^54. 
t>»'aiiie(l  liy  llie  I  iiiteil  States  exploring  exiK'ditioii,  |S41. 
t  The  name  luj  the  lOimlisti  adiiiiraltv  eliart.  1S47. 


COAST  PILOT  OK  WASIIIN(!TOX  TKinnTOKV. 


207 


tiiiilior,  but  in  some  parls  siniisdy.  Near  its  .soiitliwcst  lu'iul  a  pciixMidicular  wall 
of  rock  st'ivcs  also  to  »listiii;;iiisli  it.  Af'tri'  |»assiii<>'  tin-  wi'slcni  cikI  of  this  island 
at  the  (listaM('(!  of  a  mile,  tin' dianncl  takes  an  altrui>t  turn  to  the  eastward,  and 
tlic  (Inll'oC  (Icoiji'ia  is  seen.  Tin' course  now  is  nortlieast  liall'  east  for  eleven 
miles,  liaviuf^'  on  tlie  northwest  side  Sntunut  Jshoul,  which  ris«'s  into  nionntains. 
Jora  Haul,*  near  its  eastern  extremity,  stands  u|)  perpendicularly  lu'arly  seven 
hundred  feet,  but  the  extreme  part,  called  Eitxt  roiiit,^  is  a  loufi'  slopinj^'  point,  in 
many  i»laces  destitute  of  trees.     The  small  island  lyinjioff  its  nctrtli  shore  is  TundK).t 

On  the  east  side  the  waters  open  Avell  t(»  the  southeast,  aiul  the  islands  rise  in 
hi^li  hills  and  mountains.  The  laryo  island  abreast  of  ,1a \  a  Head  is  Mltl<ln>)i,\ 
which  has  j^^ood  anchorage  otf  its  soutiiwest  side,  where  the  shor<'  line  curves  well 
lu.  The  western  point  is  low  and  sandy;  the  southern,  called  Point  Di.siifi/J  is 
perpemliculai',  liijih,  and  I'ocky.  Olf  its  northei'n  face  lie  two  islets,  called  Shlpjitch- 
Jnhinds.^  The  western  one  is  about  one  mile  from  Waldron,  moderately  hij^li,  and 
■wooded;  the  eastern  is  smaller,  about  forty  feet  hij>h,  destitute  of  trees,  but  cov- 
ered with  f;i'ass,  and  lies  a  mile  east  of  the  t'ornu'V.  lU'twcen  these  lies  a  sunken 
rock,  and  the  current  rushes  by  -with  ji'reat  velocity. 

On  some  recent  majis  two  islands  called  Adolphus  and  (ieoi'nc  are  laid  down 
close  to  the  Skipjacks,  but  in  IS,").'!  we  examined  the  vicinity  and  satistied  oiUoclves 
that  they  did  not  then  exist. 

When  East  Point  bears  northwest  by  Avest  throe-quarters  west,  two  miles  dis- 
tant, the  ■west  end  of  lottos  rshtiidi  will  bear  northiioithcast  two  ami  a  half  miles, 
and  the  west  end  of  the  l^iicvt  (ir())ij)\\  east-northeast  three  and  a  half  miles;  the 
course  outlvin^'  north-northwest,  between  Patos  and  East  Point,  which  are  two 
and  three-fourl^s  miles  a])art.  Seven  miles  on  this  course  carries  you  to  the  mid- 
dle of  the  Gulf  of  GeiU'jiia.  Close  otT  Ivist  Point  is  found  a  depth  of  one  liuiidred 
and  twenty  fathoms,  and  oft"  Patos  Lsland  one  hundri'd  and  seventy  fathoms.  All 
these  islands  are  moderately  hi^h  and  covered  with  wood.  They  are  ruy,ii'ed  and 
irregular,  composed  of  sandstone  and  conj;ionu'rate,  upheaved  until  the  strata  are 
nearly  perpendicular  in  some  ])Iaces,  and  interspersed  with  small  veins  of  lij^nite, 

H>.s7'.s'  Ji<(iil,-'i\  lies  southwest  by  west  seven-eighths  west  one  mile  from  the 
southwest  ])oint  of  Siicia  ;  it  has  less  than  two  fathoms  uinin  it,  and  is  marke .; 
by  a  larft'c  nmss  of  kelj). 

The  approxinuite  j;eojirai)hical  position  of  two  or  three  points,  as  determined 
by  the  LTnited  States  Coast  Surve^\,  will  servo  to  check  the  (lourses  above  {•iven: 


'NiiiikmI  liy  tlif  riiltcd  StiilcH  ('Xi)l(>iiiij;-  cxindif idii  in  Hll.  On  llii>  T^iinli^^li  iiiliniriilty  cliait 
()l'ia')i»  it  is  ciilliMl  M,.!..i:.li  Head. 

tXamccl  l)y  til  •  I'liili'il  States  cxiilorinj;  ('X|)iMlitii)ii,  l-'ll. 

I  Si>  callcil  1)\  di."  r  I'ti'd  states  ('xi)li)iiiin'  cxiii'iiitiiiii  in  l>ll.  Named  WikmIciI  Island  and 
Bare  Island  by  I'm*   d  S'.aies  Coast  Survey  iji  !<>:!. 

\U>lil  Spanish  'ia.,1''.     (.'alleil  (ionrd  lslan<l  liy  the  t'luted  Stales  explniinu;  expedil  icm,  I-^ll. 

II  Old  Spanish  uaiiie.  Siieia  siirnilies  muddy.  The  harhov  <in  the  east  has  a  soft  mnddy  lioltdni. 
'I'lu^  I'nited  Stati'-i  ex,dorini;'  expedition  railed  them  the  I'eleival  (iriiup,  1-^tI.  The  Indian  name  is 
ChiiD-sii-nnnji;. 

^  DiseovfM'od  and  uaiiied  l>y  the  I'nited  Stales  Coast  Snivey.  IS.'iS.  Called  riiim]ii  r  Keel'  on 
I'.nglish  adiinralty  eliait,  Is")',!. 


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208 


COAST  riLOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TEliTlITORY. 


Coast  Survey  station,  on  the  suiiiinit  of  Discovery  Island,  latitudo  4ii3  20f 
36".4  north;  lonjiitude  VS'fi  VV  2t»".r>  west. 

West  point  of  Stuart  Island,  latitude  -ISo  -il'  17"..")  north,  longitude  12;5=|  14', 
29".G  west. 

West  point  of  Patos  Islan<l,  latitude  4.SO  47'  O;$",lon^--itude  iL'l-'o  r^'  ai".2  west. 

The  number  of  islands,  and  the  intricate  channels  lyin^'  between  the  two  straits, 
we  shall  not  attempt  to  describe.  A  pntper  appreciation  of  them  can  only  be 
obtained  from  the  chart.  The  ])ositions  of  the  islauils  are  shown  on  sketches  issued 
from  the  Coast  Survey  ofllce  in  1854  aiul  l.sr>8. 

KOSAKIO  STRAIT. 

This  strait  was  first  seen  by  (iuimper  from  Tort  Discovery,  and  called  "  Boca 
de  Flon."  From  Tnttectiou  Island  he  could  see  through  the  whole  length  of  the 
strait;  he  could  not  see  Deception  Pass  from  there. 

Eliza  passed  through  it  in  17!H,  and  called  it  the  Can-al  de  Fidalgo. 

Vancouver  passed  through  it  in  17UL',  and  gives  its  peculiarities  very  well. 

(Jaliano  ami  Valdes  caiiu',  through  it  in  17!L',  and  called  it  Canal  de  Fiihdgo. 

The  United  States  e.\i>loring  expedition,  in  1841,  called  it  Kinggold's  Pass 
Channel. 

The  English  admiralty  chart  of  1847  has  it  llosario  Strait,  and  by  this  name 
it  is  always  known  on  the  Pacilic. 

liosario  Strait  is  the  eastern  of  the  two  principal  channels  running  through 
the  Archipelago  de  Uaro,  between  Vancouver  Island  and  the  main.  Its  southern 
entrance  lies  north  by  east,  distant  seven  miles  from  JJlunt's  Island,  and  is  four 
and  a  quarter  miles  wide.  The  western  point  of  the  entrance  is  formed  by  a 
point  running  out  from  WatmoiKjh  JIea<l,*  which  is  four  hundred  ind  lifty  feet 
high,  and  on  the  southeast  part  of  Lopez  JslandA  Oil'  this  point  lie  several  rocky 
islets,  with  deep  water  among  them  and  a  rushing  current.  Tin;  outer  one,  nauu'd 
Southwest  Island,^  is  about  lifty  feet  high,  rocky,  Hat-topped,  destitute  of  bush  or 
tree,  narrow,  and  about  <tne-third  of  a  mih^  in  length,  east  and  west.  Kast  five- 
eighths  south  from  it,  at  a  distance  of  half  a  mile,  lies  Jhiridson  Ji<ivh\^  possi- 
bly bare  at  the  lowest  ti(h's.  A  patch  of  kelp  exists  upou  ami  around  it,  but  the 
kelp  is  generally  run  under  the  surface  of  the  water  by  the  strength  of  the 
current. 

The  whole  southern  face  of  Lopez  Island  is  guarded  by  locks  and  reefs.  The 
island  itself  is  very  rocky  ami  moderately  low.  On  part  of  iis  southern  bluff  we 
discovered,  in  1854,  deep  nuirks  of  glacial  action. 


•  Named  WatnioiiKli  llfiiil  hy  the  United  States  explorini^  expeditiim  in  1^41.  On  the  fii-Ht 
slieetH  of  tlie  United  StateMCoiiHi  Snrvey  called  \\  iilniiin;{li  li.'ad.  On  the  l'^n;<li.Hh  aihniralty  ehait 
of  Id'iD  ealled  Walniiintli  Mill.     The  Indian  rianje  is  NoD-eliaad-Kwnn, 

t  Vaneouvta'  deleiinined  it  to  he  an  iHhiud  in  \T.t'i.  In  1."'41  the  I'nited  States  explorinjj;  exi)e- 
dition  mimed  It  C'hanneey's  Island.  EnKlinh  adnumlty  uhurt  of  ISit  huH  it  Lopez  Ishuid  ;  iiiid  it  in 
always  known  hy  lids  name  on  the  eoast. 

t  Nanu'd  hy  the  I'nited  States  Coast  Snivey  in  ISM. 

^  Named  on  the  1'',n^;lish  adndndty  chart  of  IKV.). 


'  «^Vi 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASIIINCrrON  TKUKI TOltV. 


209 


le  HP  L'5' 

)  123°  14', 

!1".2  west, 
wo  straits, 
111  only  be 
lies  issued 


ed  "  Boca 
ftli  of  the 


y  well. 
Fidiilgo. 
old's  I'ass 

this  uaiue 

>•  through 
4  southern 
lid  is  lour 
•11  led  by  a 
lilty  feet 
n-al  rocky 
lie,  named 
»f  bush  or 
Kust  tive- 
t7.,§  possi- 
t,  but  the 
h  of   the 

'efs.    The 
bluff  wo 


Ml  tli(>   (irnt 
iiiiltj  I'liiiit 

il ;  and  it  in 


On  the  eastern  side  of  the  entrance  is  a  Kiiiall  wooded  island  called  Deception 
Island,  at  the  mouth  of  Deveption  I*ass,  an  iiitricat(^  and  very  narrow  tliree- 
fathom  chaniH'l,  three  miles  lonj;-,  runniiiji-  between  tiie  iiorlli  end  of  Widliey  Isl- 
and and  the  south  end  of  Fiihiltjo  Island.'^  In  IS II  the  I'nited  States  bri;,' 
Bainbrid}^ei>assed  throuj^h  it  from  tin;  eastward.  It  is  tlie  Uoca  de  Floii  of  Kliza, 
1701,  l)ut  is  now  known  only  by  the  ajit  designation  ;;?veii  above. 

Vancouver  called  it  Deception  Pass  in  17!tL'.  (laliano  and  Vaidez  «-alle«l  it 
Boca  de  Floii,  thinkinj?,  with  Eliza,  that  it  was  the  strait  of  that  name  seen  by 
Quiiiii)er  in  I7!)0.  It  was  named  Deception  Pass  by  the  irnited  States  Exploriiij,' 
Expedition  in  1841,  and  is  known  by  no  other  on  tliis  coast. 

In  the  middle  of  the  entrance  to  llosario  Strait  Vancouver  anchored  in  thirty- 
seven  fathoms,  black,  muddy  bottom,  in  17!t2. 

When  at  tlu'  entrance,  and  one  ami  a  half  miles  from  the  western  side,  a  line 
passes  clear  of  everythinjj  from  one  end  of  the  strait  to  tiie  otiier.  This  «'ourse  is 
north  by  west  half  west,  and  the  distance  nineteen  and  a  half  miles  to  the  north 
entrance.  It  passes  between  Bird  and  Belle  Kocks,  and  almost  tan<;eiit  to  Point 
Lawrence,  on  Orcas  I:  land.  Taking  the  courses  tliroiij,'h  the  mid('lianiiel  we  have 
the  followiii<>-:  Northwest  by  north  two-thirds  north  for  elevt-n  and  one  I'ourth  miles; 
north  by  cast  tlirce-(|iiarters  east  for  three  aiul  thieetburths  miles;  and  northwest 
half  west  tor  six  and  a  half  miles — making-  a  total  of  twenty-one  and  a  half  miles. 

The  shore  f(U'  the  first  two  miles  on  the  western  side  is  moderately  high, 
declining  to  a  point,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  oft'  which  lies  Kellett's  Ledge, fiiare  at  the 
lowest  ti  les,  and  having  deep  water  all  around  it.  The  ledge  is  marked  by  a  mass 
of  kelp.  Tlien(!e  the  siiore  makes  a  deep  bend  f(U'  a  mile  to  the  westward,  with  a 
low  beach  and  marsh,  over  which  Lopez  tSoiiiul^  can  be  seen.  This  Iteiid  is  called 
Nluxd  Jii(/ht,^  and  has  from  six  to  ten  fatlmms  lor  a  mile  (mt,  with  level  sandy  bot- 
tom. In  mid-channel  rise  the  liini  Iincks.\\  about  forty  feet  high,  consisting  of  three 
small,  rocky  islets  very  close  together,  and  running  in  a  north  direction.  Tliey 
are  somewhat  pyramidal  in  form,  and  during  the  summer  show  yellowish,  on 
account  of  the  parched  grass  and  the  color  of  tin'  rocks.  Abreast  of  them,  on  the 
western  side,  is  a  narrow  opening  between  two  low  nuiky  heads  of  Lopez  and 
Devutur  Iiil<(n<ls.\\  Inside  is  a  line  of  islets  ranging  from  the  inntli  head,  and 
making  the  channel  run  towards  the  south.  This  barrier  is  called  the  Lopez 
Cliain,t  and  the  entrance  the  Lopez  Pass.t  Several  large  islands  are  found  inside. 
Vancouver's  boats  evidently  were  in  tiiisltay,  as  his  chart  gives  a  good  general 


*  XaiiiL'd  by  Eliza  in  17'Jl,    Called  I'erry'h  Isluiiil  liy  the  rnilcd  States  ('\|)li)iin};  expedition 
in  1S41. 

tNiiiiied  l>y  file  irnited  StateH  Cnast  Survey  in  l"*r)4.     loiiez  I'ass   is  called  Maniy  I'msm  on  tlm 
Enf^lisli  admiralty  eli:iit,  ]^'>'.). 

t  Called  tile  Macedonian  t'resreiit  by  tlie  Cnited  Stales  exploriiij^  expedition  in   l^ll  ;  named 
Lopez  Hay  liy  the  Hinted  StateH  Coast  Survey  in  ISM. 

ij  Named  by  the  I'nited  States  Coast  Snrvey  in  1>.")4.     We  were  tlie  tirst  to  discover  this  availa- 
able  anelioiame.     It  is  called  Davis's  Hay  on  liie  Knjrlish  admiralty  chart  of  K)'.». 

II  NuiiU'd  by  the  Uuitud  StutoH  exploring  expedition  in  1S41. 
21* 


210 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TKIMUTOKY. 


idea  of  it.  The  aiu'lioniffe  of  Shoal  JJif^ht  coiitiiiuo.s  some  (listance  northward  of 
this  opeiiiiifj,  niid  abreast  of  some  moderately  hi-;!!  white  bliilVs.  North-iutrtheast 
throe-(Hi:irters  of  iv  mile  from  liird  Koeks  lies  licllc  h'ovk,  directly  in  mid-eliaiiiiel, 
making  a  very  (huifferous  position.  It  shows  four  fe<^t  above  the  very  lowest  tides, 
and  is  covered  by  a  patch  of  kelp,  which  is.  however,  jfenerally  run  under  by  the 
strength  of  the  currents.  Tlie  rij*  upon  it  can  sonu'times  be  seen  when  the  water 
is  smooth,  but  with  light  winds  and  liigh  tides  its  existence  would  not  be  sus- 
pected. On  all  sides  of  it  the  water  is  very  deep.  The  extent  of  rock  above  water 
is  about  twenty  feet  scpiare.  We  discovered  and  named  this  danger  in  1854,  and 
■while  erecting  a  signal  ui)on  it  miticed  that  the  tide  rose  nearly  one  and  a  half  foot 
Avhihf  th»!  current  was  yet  running  ebb  at  the  rate  of  three  miles  an  hour.  IJe- 
tween  it  and  the  IJird  Kocks  there  is  a  submarine  ridge  with  plenty  of  wafer,  but 
marked  by  strong  eddies  when  the  surface  is  smootli.  The  steamsiiip  Uepublic 
lately  ran  upon  tiiis  rock,  and  laore  recently  the  pilot-boat  Totter. 

After  passing  Deception  Islaiul,  on  tlie  east  siiUi  of  the  entrance,  the  face  of 
Fidalgo  Island  is  high,  i»recii»itous,  and  bare  for  two  or  three  miles  in  a  northwest  direc- 
tion. This  is  called  Sares  Head.*  it  then  sweei)s  to  the  n(uth,  changing  to  the 
westward  until  abreast  of,  and  two  miles  from.  Belle  Koek.  In  this  deep  bay,  and 
lying  well  olf  shore,  are  the  WIUhohxoh  liovlcs,*  a  cluster  of  ro(!ky  islets  about  forty 
feet  high,  with  (h-ep  water  close  around  them.  From  Decei)tion  Island  they  bear 
northwest  two-thirds  west  three  miles  distant,  and  from  Southwest  Ishuul,  off 
Watmough  Head,  northeast  five  miles.  Half  a  mile  northward  of  them  is  Allan 
Lshiiid,*  which  is  about  three-(iuarters  of  a  mile  in  extent,  and  about  two  hundred 
feet  high,  with  its  soul  hern  face  partly  bare.  A  cpiarter  of  a  mile  olf  its  southwest 
face  lies  the  l>('/i(«  liovL*  This  is  never  bare,  but  its  position  is  marked  by  a 
patch  of  kelp. 

North  of  Allan  Island,  and  separated  from  it  by  a  channel  a  (pmrter  of  a  mile 
wide,  is  liurrotc's  Island,*  one  and  a  half  miles  long  southeast  and  northwest,  by 
half  a  mile  in  brea«lth.  The  island  is  between  six  and  seven  hundred  feet  high, 
and  has  a  notably  tlat  top,  is  wooded,  and  niiiy  be  seen  from  the  Strait  of  Fuca. 
At  the  eastern  end  of  the  passage,  between  the  las»  two  islands,  is  a  small  one 
called  Youny  Island.*  Through  all  the  channels  formed  by  these  ishinds  a  good 
depth  of  water  exists,  and  no  dangers  have  been  discovered. 

The  breadth  of  Uosario  Strait  at  IJelle  Koek  is  three  and  a  half  miles;  but  it 
is  so(m  ctmtracted  by  James  Island,*  on  the  western  side,  and  opens  into  a  chan- 
nel running  north-northeast,  called  the  liellitujham  Channil,\  which  is  about  two 
miles  wide  at  its  entrance,  A  snmll  channel,  cudled  (JiU'mes  Channel,  runs  from  it 
nunc  to  the  eastward  along  the  ntuth  shore  of  Kidi'.lgo  Island,  and  leads  into 
Fadilla  Hay.  Upon  Fiualgo  rises  Mount  Lirie*  to  a  height  of  one  thousand  two 
hundred  and  tifty  feet,  covered  with  Avoods,  and  presenting  a  tlat  aptteailmce  from 
certain  directions.    James  Island  consists  of  two  heads  a  mile  ai»art,  and  two 


tNiiiiit'd  liy  tln'  United  Stiitfn  Coast  Sur  oy,  lrt54.    Tho  Iiuliuii  iKiiiic,  is  Tnt-Hogli. 
Ndiiicd  by  tlit^  I'liiti'd  Htntt's  t'X)d(»riii}r  fixpcditiDii,  18-11. 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASIllNOTON  TKKiaT01{Y. 


211 


til  ward  of 
-lutrtlit'iist 
il-cliaiiiK'l, 
vest  tidt'.s, 
liT  by  the 
the  water 
)t  be  suH- 
love  water 
LSot,  and 
I  half  toot 
loiir.  Be- 
ivater,  but 
I  Keitublic 

he  tare  of 
vest  direc- 
iiij^  to  the 
)  bay,  and 
M»ut  forty 
tliey  bear 
shiiitl,  otf 
►  is  Allan 
hundred 
(onthwest 
rked  by  a 

of  a  mile 
iwest,  by 
feet  hififh, 
of  Fiica. 
small  one 
s  a  {i'ood 

;s;  but  it 
o  a  chan- 
jout  two 
IS  from  it 
ads  into 
•4a nd  two 
nee  from 
and  two 


hundred  ai;d  fifty  feet  hifth,  but  connected  by  a  narrow  ridj^e.  The  southern  head 
is  the  hi^iher,  and  not  very  iieaviiy  timl>ered.  Close  to  the  wesi  of  the  ridye  lies 
anntlier  head,  cdnnected  with  Decatur  Island  by  a  low  sand  beach. 

Northwest  of  James  Island  is  an  opening'  on  the  west  between  Decatur  Island 
and  Jilakely  Island,*  with  twenty-ftvo  fathoms  in  it,  but  with  a  rock,  (!overed  at  a 
((uarter  Hood,  exactly  in  the  mid<lle  of  the  entrance.  It  is  called  Thatcher  Pass. 
On  the  east,  half  a  mile  up  the  strait,  ai>pears  the  southwest  i)oint  of  Ci/press 
Islaii(l,\  otV  which  lie  rocks  and  foul  bottom  fin-  half  a  mile  on  a  line  to  liurrow's 
Island.  Around  this  locality  extends  a  larj^'e  body  of  kelj).  The  southern  face  of 
Cy|»ress  Islaml  consists  of  alternate  ])eri>endicular  white  cliffs,  and  slopinj;'  j;round 
<'ov«M'ed  with  fern  or  trees.  On  its  western  side,  and  one  and  one-quarter  mile 
from  the  southwest  i)oint,  is  found  a  sun;;'  little  harbor  called  iStrawbcrry  Bay,X 
which  is  formed  by  the  retreating  of  the  shore-line,  and  an  outlyinj,^  rocky  islet 
called  Strawberry  or  Hautboy  Island.*  In  this  bay  excellent  anchora^je  is  foiuid 
in  from  six  to  ten  fathoms,  muddy  bottom.  Good  fresh  water  is  plenty  here.  A 
hi^di  whit(^  clilV  is  seen  to  the  south  of  the  harbor,  from  the  shores  of  which  rise 
rapidly  the  Lake  ^Iountains,§  to  an  elevation  of  one  thousand  five  hundred  and 
twenty-five  feet,  and  amonj;'  whose  pe.aks  we  fouml  two  large  sheets  of  fresh 
water.  Tiiese  jteaks  are  very  noticeable  from  the  Strait  of  Fuca,  ami  being  con- 
nected by  com)»aratively  low  ridges  with  other  hills  on  the  island,  they  present  a 
saddle-like  ai)pearance  from  the  southward  aiul  westward. 

Abreast  of  Strawberry  Island  the  channel  contracts  to  a  width  of  one  and  a 
half  mile,  where  the  bold  i-ocky  face  of  lilakely  Island  rises  to  a  height  of  between 
nine  hundred  and  one  thousand  feet.  The  greatest  elevation  of  the  northern  part 
of  the  island  is  one  thousand  vm\  forty-fbnr  feet.|| 

Nearly  half  a  mih;  southeast  from  its  east  face  lies  a  very  small  low  rock 
calle<l  lil((cJc  7iV)<7,-,§  ami  half  way  between  it  and  the  south  end  of  the  island  is  a 
irhitc  rw7i-,§  a  (piarter  of  a  mile  from  the  shore.  In  this  nairow  part  of  the  strait 
the  dei)th  of  water  is  about  sixty  fathoms,  and  the  current  goes  through  with  a 
roar  like  the  sound  of  a  gale  of  wind  through  a  forest.  When  at  anchor  in  ten 
fathoms,  nndor  the  low  jxtint  one  and  a  half  mile  north  of  Strawberry  Island,  we 
fonnd  the  curi-cnt  four  miles  jier  hour,  and  swirling  so  nunrli  that  the  vessel  had 
to  be  steered,  to  ju-event  lier  breaking  her  sheer.  Thence  tin  strait  widens  north- 
ward, and  at  the  north  eml  of  Blakely,  two  miles  above  Strawberry  Island,  two 
channels  lead  to  the  westward  around  Obstruction  Island,*  which  lies  benveen 
Blakely  and  Orcas  Islands.  Both  are  narrow,  and  oil"  the  entraniie  t  the  south 
lie  some  sunken  rocks,  and  others  above  water.  Blakely  Island  and  Orcas  Ish'ud 
are  three-quarters  of  a  mile  apart. 

*Naini'(l  by  tilt' I'liitcd  .Stutt'H  <'xi>l()riiij;  oxpcditidii,  1841. 
tNaiiu'd  by  Vancouver,  l7it"J. 

tNiiiiifd  liy  Vaiicoiivfr,  17'.>'J.    Tlu!  Indian  name  for  Strawbon'y  Bay  is  Tutl-kc-teli-nas. 
^  Named  by  the  I'liited  States  Coast  Survey,  lHr>4. 

II  'I'lie  I'iiiglisli  Adiuinilty  Cluirt  No.  11)11  biw  tLis  erroneously  fOi>ied  at  two  tUouNuud  aud  forty- 
foin-  feet. 


rr 


COAST  riLOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TKI{TiITORY. 


When  in  the  niirrowosf  i)art  of  Rosaiio  Strait,  a  vory  inarkod  p(M'i)Oii(lioular 
rocky  jM'ak  is  seen  to  the  iiortli.  t»v«'r  tlie  low  point  ot  Cypress,  and  soon  shows 
risiiifj  ahniittly  from  the  water's  ed;;e  to  a  heijjht  of  seven  iiiindred  and  lifty  feet. 
It  is  called  iiald  I'cak.*  Abreast  of  it  the  channel  takes  the  tirst  turn,  chanjiinjf 
its  course  to  north  l>y  east  three-i|uarters  east  for  three  and  three-quarters  miles. 
Jlalf  a  mile  otV  the  north  end  of  Cypress  Island  is  a  snndl  islet  covered  with  trees, 
and  called  Cypress  l{ock.+  \orl Invest  of  it  are  sonic  sunken  rocks,  but  their 
exact  position  is  not  accurat»'ly  known.  The  c(»mi)aratively  low  islam]  half  a  mile 
n(«'th-n(»rtheast  of  <Jypress  is  Sinclair  /.v/«h</,|  the  hijjrhest  jiart  of  which  is 
towards  the  eastern  eml.  Otf  the  northeast  face  of  binclair  Island,  and  stretchiu}!: 
''half  a  mile,  is  liou'.der  lveef.§  visible  at  extreme  low  tides.  It  is  covered  with 
keli>.  which  is,  h(tw«'vcr.  j;'enerally  kept  under  the  surface  of  the  water  by  str<m{^ 
currents.  A  hujic,  erratic  jjranite  boulder  is  seen  at  ordinary  tides  inside  of  the 
outer  i)oint  of  the  reef,  and  bears  from  it  east  by  south  three  quarters  scuith,  dis- 
tant five  hundred  yards.  From  the  western  point  of  the  island  the  reef  bears 
exactly  north,  distant  three-ipiarters  of  a  mile.  The  revenue  cutter  Jetl'erson 
Davis  and  the  steamship  Fanama  have  been  upon  it  since  it  was  discovered  in 
18r)4.  On  the  north  side  of  the  island  is  anchorage  in  ten  to  lifteen  fathoms,  half 
a  mile  olV  shore. 

Three  miles  from  Sinclair  Island  lies  Orcas  Tslan<l,  on  the  northwest  side  of 
the  strait.  It  is  a  larji-e  i.sland,  with  a  mountain  named  Entrance  Mountain,  one 
thousand  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  high,  near  its  southern  end.  The  i)oint 
strctchinj"'  furthest  east  and  coming;  down  to  the  Avater  is  Point  L((icrence,\\  and 
the  low,  treeless  islets  and  reef,  jtassed  one  and  a  half  miles  before  reaching;'  this 
])oint,  and  lyinji'  over  half  a  mile  oft'  shore,  are  the  JVapods.||  JM'i*  water  is 
f(Uind  dose  to  them.  When  upon  this  sanu'  mid-channel  course,  the  island  ahead 
is  Lummi  Fshinth*]  Its  southern  half  is  very  nnich  higher  than  the  northern,  ami 
attains  an  elevation  of  one  thousand  live  hundred  and  sixty  feet.  The  rock 
nearly  one  hundred  tV'ct  hijjh  otV  the  hi.!ihesr  part  of  the  ri<lge,  and  a  third  t)f  a 
mile  from  shore,  is  the  Litniini  7^o(7,-,f  and  a  capital  boat  harbor  is  found  on  its 
northwest  side.  A  mile  otV  its  south  end  are  the  Viti  h'ovks,\\  about  twenty-tive 
leet  high,  with  plenty  of  water  around  them. 

Abreast  of  Foint  Lawrence  the  channel  is  over  tliree  miles  wide,  and  it  there 
chauf^es  to  northwest  i;alf  west  for  six  and  a  half  miles,  to  "i    line  joining  the 


*XaiiH!d  liy  the  United  Statt'n  Coast  Survey  in  1854.  Tuo  IiuUau  unino  is  SlieL-ung-tlh,  sigtii- 
fyiiij;  tile  home  of  tlie  Tlmiiderliinl. 

tXaimd  by  the  I'liited  .States  Coast  i^nrvey,  ls")4. 

t  Laid  down  tiy  (ialiano  and  Valdes  as  Isla  de  Ijjnaso.  Received  its  present  n.anio  from  tlio 
United  States  e.\)ilorinf;  expedition  in  ISll. 

\S  Discovered  ami  nanieil  liy  the  United  States  Coast  Survey  in  1854.  Called  I'auania  Reef  on 
English  admiralty  eliart  of  1S51). 

II  Nameil  hy  the  Tnited  States  exjdorinji  expedition.  I'^ll. 

T  Called  Isla  de  I'aeheco  liy  I'li/.a  in  HiMI;  .Mrl.au;;hlin"s  Island  liy  the  liiited  Stales  exploring 
ex|iedilion  in  1*11  :  named  i.niiimi  Island  in  lK'>:t  liy  the  United  Slates  Coast  Survey,  heeanst* 
inhaliited  l>v  that  trilie.     It  is  known  liv  no  other  name. 


if 


COAST  riLCT  OF  WASniNCiTON  TKHIJITOHT. 


213 


oiidiciilar 
XIII  sliows 
lilt.v  Ct'ct. 
cliiiiijiiiiyf 
ITS  miles. 

itil  tHM'S, 

but  tlii'ir 
)ir  a  mile 
wliieli  is 
trctcliiii}; 
red  with 
•y  stnni{^ 
»!('  of  tho 
(nitli,  (lis- 
vvi'  1  tea  IS 

.IcIU'lSOM 

tvcretl  ill 
oins,  lialf 

it  side  of 
itaiii,  one 
'be  point 
necjW  and 
'liiiiji-  this 
\vat<'r  is 
iid  a]i«-ad 
leni,  and 
riio  loek 
liiid  of  a 
id  on  its 
eiity-tlve 

1  it  there 
niii};  tho 

-till,  Higui- 

■  from  tlio 
la  Reef  on 


«'\|il(inii(f 


Matid  (iroiij),*  with  tlie  north  end  of  liUmmi  Ishind.  From  Point  T.  .vn-nee, 
alony  the  north  face  of  Orcas  Island,  the  siiore  is  rocky  and  pie('i|»itons,  and  rises 
by  two  or  three  ]dateanx  to  Monnt  Constitiition.f  whieli  is  less  than  a  milo 
ill  sliore  and  two  thousand  four  humired  and  t  weiilytiire*'  feet  iii;ih. 

The  yeo^rapJiieal  position,  as  determined  hy  the  Coast  Survey  in  IS.'it,  is: 

Latitude 4.S  4(>  37.2  north. 

Lon^^itude lL'2  41»  m.S,S  west. 

The  course  out  jiasses  on  the  west  some  small  rocky  islets  called  The 
Sinters,^  marked  by  oiu'  or  two  stunted  tir  trees;  then  ('larh-  Islaiid^  and  Bdnics 
Jslani1,l  close  under  its  western  siih-,  leavinj;-  a  channel  a  mile  widelietween  it  and 
the  north  shore  of  Orcas  Island,  witli  very  deep  water  ami  no  aiiclioiaj,'e. 
Abreast  of  Clark  Island,  on  Luiiimi  Islaml,  is  a  contracted  anchora.!,('  and  shelter 
from  nortlu  rly  wiiuls,  under  a  low  itoiiit  called  Villajie  Poiiit.{  The  ■inchora<i'e  is 
in  ten  to  fifteen  fathoms,  but  there  is  no  fresh  water,  and  the  lai  <j;e  Indian  villa;;e 
is  now  deserted.  After  passiuft-  this  jioiiit,  anchorage  may  1)«'  obtained  liaif  a  mile 
from  sliore  in  from  eight  to  fitteen  fathoms.  Close  to  Clark  and  Uarnes  Islands 
tlie  dejith  is  fifty  and  sixty  fathoms,  and  a  very  strong  current  runs  near  them. 
The  channel  between  Village  I'oiiit  and  these  islands  is  two  miles  with*. 

West-southwest  of  the  north  end  ctf  Lummi  Island,  and  four  miles  distant,  i  re 
three  islands  very  close  together,  called  the  Mafia  Group.*  A  mile  and  a  half  to 
the  westward  of  them  lies  the  Sucla  Group,  consisting  of  one  large  and  six  small 
islands,  with  a  reef  ott'  the  north  side  of  the  group,  and  a  l)eautiful  harbor  a  mile 
long  and  half  a  mile  wide,  oi)ening  to  the  east,  and  carrying  from  ten  to  fitteen 
fathoms,  sticky  mud  bottom. §  To  the  westward  of  this  grou|»  lies  Pafos  Ishnul, 
and  a  much  smaller  one  close  to  its  southwest  point.  The  eastern  jutint  of  I'atos 
Island  bears  west  thiee-«juarters  simth,  nine  miles  from  the  north  end  of  L  nnmi 
Island.  Two  or  three  miles  north-northeast  of  Liinimi  Island  oiiens  a  shoal  bay, 
backed  by  low  marshy  ground,  which  is  covered  with  trees  and  swam])  under- 
growth. Into  it  empties  one  or  two  mouths  of  the  Luii  aii  Kiver.  The  main 
entrance  of  that  stream  is  at  the  north  jiart  of  the  bay,  and  can  be  reachetl  with 
boats  oidy  at  high  tide.  The  northwest  boundary  of  the  bay  is  a  low  grassy  juiint 
with  a  W'W  bushes  ujion  it,  called  Saiuli/  i'o/Hf.J  From  tiie  north  point  of  Lumini 
Island  it  bears  north  by  west  half  west,  distant  two  ami  a  quarter  miles. 
Between  these  two  jtoints  anchorage  may  be  had  in  from  four  to  six  fathoms,  but 
the  south  end  of  Sandy  Point  should  not  be  api)roaclied  within  less  than  half  a 
mile.  Down  the  east  side  of  Lummi  Island,  which  is  about  a  mile  in  breadth, 
runs  Hale's  Passage,t  three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide.     It  leads  from  Pellingham 

'Calli'd  "Kdimiiid's  (iroiii)"'  liy  tlie  I'liitfil  Stjitcs  ('xi)tiiiiiti;  ('xiifditiiiii  in  l^tl.  The  HHiall 
one  on  till-  fiist  is  ciiUctl  I'lillin  Islnnil  on  tin'  i;iij,'lisli  juluiiriiity  I'liurt  of  is.v.l;  in  li^.')!  it  was 
iianu-d  Matia  I-^ast  liy  tin-  I'nitcd  .states  Coast  Snrvcy. 

tNanicd  liy  tlu'  fiiitcd  States  ex)iIorin;j  <-x)ieilJtion  in  l''4V.     The  Indian  name  i>  S\v(li-la;,'Ii. 

{Named  liy  the  I'nileil  States  exidoiinj;  exiieilition,  IS-H. 

^Partially  examined  liy  llie  I'nited  States  Coast  Survey  in  I"'):!  and  l-o-'. 


214  COAST  PILOT  OF  WASITIXCITON  TERIMTOKY. 

Iliiy.  In  iliin  piissafjo  oiio  and  a  half  iniics,  and  Itcarinfl;  oast  by  soutli  half 
Hontli  from  tho  north  «;nd  of  Luninii  Island,  is  a  low  sandy  ]>oiiit.  niton  which  wa<i 
established  in  IS,"),'?  a  scccMnlary  astronomical  station  of  the  United  States  Coast 
Survey.     Its  yeotyraphical  position  is: 

Latitude IS  11  0L7  north. 

Lon^iitude ll-'2  40  M.*.)  west. 

h.    m.       s. 

Or,  in  time 8  10  42.5 

This  places  the  north  end  of  Luniini  Lsland  in — 

O  '  " 

Latitude 4S  44  53.2  north. 

Lonjritude 122  42  11.9  west. 

The  I'ollowinji  jicojjraphical  positions  will  serve  to  check  the  courses  and 
distances  we  have  j^iven: 

Matia  Island,  east,  latitude 4S  44  .10,8  north. 

Matia  Island,  east,  lonfi'tnde 122  48  28.0  west. 

O  I  II 

South  end  of  Strawberry  Island,  latitude 48  ;$,}  M.?,  north. 

South  end  of  Strawberry  Island,  longitude 122  43  20.7  west. 

Southwest  Tslan<l,*  off  Lopez  Island,  latitude 48  24  5.3..3  north. 

Southwest  Island,  otf  Lopez  Island,  louf-itude 122  48  33.9  west. 

ALDEN   SUOAL. 

From  the  north  jioint  of  Lumnii,  an  extensive  shoal  bears  west  by  north 
one-quarter  north  distant  live  aiul  one-third  miles,  and  northwest  by  north  half 
north  three  and  one-half  miles  froni  the  eastern  isli;r;'  of  the  Matia  group.  It 
lies  upon  the  last  diret^t  course  out  of  the  strait,  but  has  not  been  completely 
sounded  out.  AVithin  the  fifteen-fathom  curve  it  is  at  least  two  miles  scpiare,  and 
may  be  used  when  a  vessel  loses  the  wind  and  has  a  strong  adverse  current:  but 
thi'  swirls  and  e«ldies  upon  and  around  it  will  be  very  apt  to  foul  any  anchor. 

The  least  water  tVmnd  on  this  bank  is  two  and  three-cpiarters  fathoms,  and  this 
spot  bears  north  35°  west,  three  and  one-haif  miles  from  the  eastern  islet  of  the 
IMatia  group. 

From  about  its  middle  part,  we  have  the  following  bearings  of  prominent 
objects: 

I^astern  islet  of  Matia  group,  southeast  by  south  half  south  three  and 
one-half  mile.s. 

North  point  of  Lummi  Island,  east  by  south  one-quarter  south  five  and  one- 
third  miles. 

Northwest  point  of  Sucia  group,  with  the  wooded  island  of  the  Skipjacks  just 
open,  southwest  one-quarter  south  four  miles. 

*  So  iiiiiiii'il  liy  tile  I'liiti'd  StiittH  Ctia.st  Siirvi'.v  in  lf<54 ;  ciilldd  Colville  Isltiml  on  Eiifjlisk 
Atlmiiallv  Cliart  No.  1011. 


COAST  PILOT  OF  \VABIlIi:(5TON  TKIIinTOHY, 


215 


This  jtositiiMi  will  biiii;,'  tlio  wt^l  side  of  Clarke's  Islaiid  just  on  witli  I'oiiit 
LawivMc*'. 

The  shoiil  was  discoveieil  l».v  Lieutenant  (now  Conunodore)  James  Alden, 
United  States  navy,  assistant  Coast  S'.nvey  in  18,j;5. 

It  is  named  Alden's  Bank  on  the  English  admiralty  chart  of  ISoO. 

GULF  OF  (JEOHCHA.* 

Onee  on  the  Gidf  of  (Jeorjiia,  throu^di  either  ehannel,  the  three-mile  face  and 
timber-eovered  blufts  of  Point  Roberts t  (showin;j  almost  an  island)  are  seen  in 
the  northwest.  On  the  west,  the  mountains  of  Vaneouver  and  its  luirderiu"- 
islands  rise  up  preeipitonsly,  and  on  the  eastern  or  main  shore,  a  series  of  wooded 
clitls  two  hundred  feet  hi<;h.  Far  to  the  eastward,  the  Caseade  ran<,a'  is  seen 
rising"  above  intorinediat*'  rid^jes,  with  the  snow-eovered  summit  of  .Mtuiut  IJaker.J 
whieh  rears  it  liead  ten  thousand  nine  hundred  feet  above  tiie  level  of  the  sea.  To 
the  west-northwest  stretch  the  waters  t»f  the  Gulf  of  Georjuia,  nine  miles  wide, 
abreast  of  Point  Koberts,  where  it  is  mirrowest,  but  siueadiuj,'  out  to  tweutv 
miles,  and  having:  a  leiifrth  of  one  huiulred  and  twenty.  A  short  distance  above 
the  forty-ninth  jtarallel,  it  receives  Eraser  Kiver,  (the  tliird  <;ieat  stream  of  the 
northwest  coast,)  the  branches  of  which  spread  towards  the  Caseade  ranye  of 
mountains. 

if  b(mnd  up  the  Gulf,  .sailiii^r  vessels  hold  well  to  the  eastern  shore  to  avoid 

the  rushing  currents,  and  to  take  the  chances  of  un  auchorajj^e  if  the  w  ind  fails. 

From  Sandy  Point  to  Point  Whifehorn,^  the  general  trend  of  the  shore  is 
northwest  hdf  west,  and  the  distance  seven  nules.  The  shore  is  a  steep  Iduft" 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  hifih,  and  covered  with  wood.  At  Whitehorn  the 
face  of  the  point  is  worn  away  by  the  action  of  the  sea,  and  shows  bright,  with 
rocks  at  its  base. 

BIUCU  BAY. 

The  southern  point  of  this  line  bay  is  Point  ^^^litehoru,  and  the  northwest 
shore  is  formed  by  a  long  rounding  high  bluff,  bearing  about  northwest  from 
Whitehorn,  and  distant  three  miles.  The  l>ay  runs  noitli-nintheast  two  and  a 
half  miles,  with  a  width  of  one  and  a  half,  riie  bottom  is  very  uniform,  with 
capital  holding-ground  of  soft  uind  in  from  four  to  ten  fathoms.  The  inunediate 
shores  are  low,  and  edged  with  manshy  patches,  thick  undergrowth,  and  heavy 
wood.  No  directions  are  necessary  for  entering,  as  there  is  a  depth  of  fifteen  to 
twenty  fathoms  a  mile  outside,  and  ten  fathoms  water  on  the  line  of  the  entrance. 
During  the  heaviest  southeast  weather  no  swell  is  felt  here  in  a  i)roi»erly  selected 


*  XmiiiciI  Iiy  ViiiiciiiiVfr,  17it'<>. 

tNniiicd  liy  (lie  I'liitid  .Slates  cxiildiinii  expedition,  If^ll.     The  IiidiiMi  iiaiiie  is  \<i\\ -iik-seii. 

t  Named  by  VaiicouviT,  1792.  In  April,  l.-(«,  llio  sharp  pi'aiv  was  reported  ti>  have  siiiili  oTie 
thousand  or  liftceu  hundred  I'eet  after  a  violent  eruption  ;  but  in  lf(i7,  we  saw  no  ehanee  i'roin  its 
appearance  between  lHr>;{  and  18,'>7. 

^  Named  by  the  I'nited  States  exploring  exi)edition  in  1841. 


210 


COAST  1MI.OT  OF  WASH  INC  TON  TKHKITOUY. 


aiu'horii;r»'.     We  sciurlicd  for  tVcsli  water,  hut  iouiid  iioiu-  in  tlio  space  of  uiore 
than  a  niih'  ah)n^  its  southeastern  si(h'. 

Tiu'  ^eo}j;ra|iliieal  position  of  I'oint  Wiiiteiiorn,  as  tlrterniineil  liy  liie  I'nited 
States  Coast  Survey,  is — 

Latitude is  r>:\  (17.;!  north. 

Lontrituth' ll.':.'   U\  liT.l  west. 

It  received  its  present  name  in  17!'-,  from  Vancouver,  who  placed  it  in  lati- 
tude IS^  .■j.'U'.     (Vol.  I,  pp.  .'n.">,  .{K!.)     The  Indian  nanu'  is  Tsan-wueh. 

This  is  the  furtlu.>t  point  northward  on  the  eastern  shores  of  the  Culf  of 
Georgia  to  which  our  personal  exaniiiuitioas  have  e.\tende»l. 

DIJAVTON   IIAiniOlJ. 

Passinj;  the  hlutV  northwest  of  IJirch  Hay  tlu'  shore  trends  about  mu'th-north 
east  for  nearly  three  miles,  and  terminates  in  a  lony;,  low,  sandy  iioint,  behind 
Avhich  lies  Drayton  Harbor,  a  small  landlocked  bay,  havinj;  a  depth  of  leu 
fathoms  just  inside  the  entrance,  but  very  shoal  over  uIp"  tenths  (»f  it.  It  oju'iis 
to  the  north  at  tho  extri'inity  of  the  sand  point.  With  tiu'  end  of  the  point 
bearinj;;  northwest  by  west  three-ei<;hths  west,  half  a  mile  distant,  the  aiu'lioraf^c 
Avould  be  in  six  fathoms.  South  of  this  position  it  shoals  gradually  forever  half  a 
uiile  to  twelve  feet,  witii  sticky  bottom. 

The  api)roaches  to  the  bay  do  not  sliow  over  live  fathoms,  at  a  distance  of  a 
mile  from  the  shore,  and  the  same  depth  is  found  (»n  j;radually  lU'arinjf  the  end  of 
the  low  pt)int.  The  southeast  shore  of  the  harbor  is  Hat  and  nuirshy,  and  is  not 
separated  Ity  much  nuue  than  a  mile  from  J>irch  Bay. 

In  this  liarbor  the  United  Stat»'s  and  British  steamers  attached  to  the  north- 
western boundary  siuvey  were  accustonuMl  to  anchor,  (l.S.'»7.)  The  Anu'ricau  eoiu- 
missioner  encam]ted  on  the  bluff  about  a  mile  north  of  the  boundary,  the  sij;ht 
havinj^f  been  selected  on  account  of  fresh  water,  but  it  has  an  extensive  tlat  in 
front. 

Drayton  Harbor  was  examined  and  named  by  the  United  States  explorinjj 
expedition  in  ISH. 

A  map  of  it  was  published  by  the  United  States  Coast  Survey  iu  1858. 

SKMI-An-MOO  HAY. 

This  extensive  bay  stretches  three  or  four  miles  to  the  westward  of  Drayton 
Harbor,  and  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  a  blutf  from  three  hundred  to  four 
hundred  feet  hi^ih,  covered  with  tir.  The  bottom  is  very  reH;uIar,  and  the  depth 
ranjfes  from  ten  fathoms,  soft  bottom,  about  two  miles  south  of  the  blulfs,  to  three 
fathoms,  within  iialf  a  mile  of  them. 

Tides. — The  corrected  establishnuMit,  or  nu>an  interval  between  the  time  of 
the  moon's  transit  antl  the  time  of  high  water,  is  -ih.  Mm.,  and  the  dilfereneo 
between  the  ijreat»'st  and  least  intervals  is  2/i.  2im.    The  mean  rise  and  fall  of 


!•  of  more 
111'  L'nitoil 

't    IIDltll. 
1    \V«'St. 

I  it  ill  lati- 
1(>  fiiilf  of 


irtlinoith 
It,  1)<-liiii(l 
III    of  ten 

It  Opt'llS 

till'  point 
iuiclionij^o 
i\ XT  half  a 

taui't'  of  a 
the  I'lul  of 
and  j.s  nut 

the  iiorth- 
icaii  roui- 
the  siglit 

vo  tlat  ill 

I'xiilorinj^ 

5.58. 


r  Drayton 
(I  to  four 
till'  (h-ptli 
s,  to  three 

e  time  of 
(lUleri'iico 
ind  fall  of 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASIIINCTON  TKIMMTOUY. 


217 


tidi'.s  i.s  .").!)  feet  ;   of  spriii;,'  tides,   1(».!»  I'ci'l,     The  iiifaii  diliation  of  the  lluoil  is 
till.  II  III.;  of  the  i'l)h,  (th.  V.hii;  and  of  I  lit'  .stand,  'J\hii. 

Tilt'  two  tides  of  the  saiiif  da.v  arc  ;;fn<>rall,v  iiiiftpial  in  proportion  to  tin* 
iiioon's  dfflination.  The  times  and  liei;;lits  can  l)c  olttained  appro.xiiiiati-iv  iVoiii 
the  follitwinj;  lal)l«'. 


Miiiin'N  u|i|iiT  iiiri'iilia  1  iiaxMiitfc. 

Mihiii'm  low4*r  luci'idiaii  puHKit^t). 

Muuu'h  ilruUuatiuii. 

IIIbIi  wiitiT. 

L«)W  water. 

Illtrii  wiitcr. 

Low  watiT. 

Irilirval. 

lltiKlit. 

Interval.   }  Hiliilil. 

Illtxi'Vlll.    ■    Ili'l;illt. 

IiiliTval. 

Il.i^ht. 

Greatest  imrlli 

Zuro 

jr  u. 
i.-i  'ji 

17  0!» 
III  J.'i 

IWI. 
C.  4 
8.1 
!1.  0 

//.  31. 

•.i;t  :i.'i 
ai  a7 
'ji  nti 

twt. 

-1.4 
3.0 
7..') 

//  M           feet. 
V.I  :i.'.            it.o 
17  IW               H.  1 

l.-i  'Jl     ^          8.4 

1 

■n  iii; 

F,,l. 

IJrcatr.it  flixith 

—  1.4 

The  inter':.!  is  to  ho  ailded  to  the  tiiiic  of  the  iiiooii'.s  ineiidian  pas,sa;.!:e,  to  fjivo 
the  time  of  lii;fli  and  low  watrr.  The  tiiiif  of  tlie  moon's  iiiipcr  mtiidiaii  pas.sa^fc 
is  j;iveii  in  the  Ali..iiiac;  and  the  time  of  its  lower  meridian  passa;;('  is  the  middle 
between  two  siieeessive  upper  i)as.say('.s.  The  hei;;lits  are  j;iven  in  feet  and  tenths, 
andshowtlieri.se  above  the  level  of  tlie  aveia;;e  of  the  lowest  low  waters ;  to 
whieh  level  the  .soniidin;;s  on  the  iliart  arc  ;.;iveii. 

Sptiny  T'lih's. — At  the  full  and  ehan^c  of  the  moon  the  lii;;h  waters  will  be  (l.l 
foot  higher  than  the  above;  and  the  low  waters  0.(>  toot  lower. 

Xvap  TidcK. — At  the  moon's  llrst  and  last  (piarters,  tlie  liij^h  waters  will  lie 
O.-i  foot  lower  than  the  above,  and  the  low  waters  will  not  fall  as  low  by  (>.(•  foot. 

A  map  of  this  bay  was  published  by  the  I'liited  States  Coa.st  Survey  in  l.S."),S, 

Stretehin;;'  to  the  northwest  is  a  large,  .shallow,  marshy  bay  fringed  with  trees 
and  buslie.s.  From  its  northern  shore,  low  land  e.vteiids  as  far  baek  as  Fra.ser  Kivi-r. 
The  western  boundary  of  the  bay  is  Ibriiied  by  the  eastern  shore  of  Point  Kobert.s. 
It  is  named  Mud  Hay  ini  the  United  States  Coast  Survey  map  of  I8.">."j,  but  on 
more  reeeiit  editions  it  is  ealled  Boundary  J>ay. 

POINT    KOBEKTS. 

When  .seen  from  the  northern  entrances  of  the  Canal  de  ITaro  and  JJosario 
Strait  this  point  stands  out  near  the  middle  of  ihc  (Jiilf  of  (Jeorgia  as  a  bold 
wooded  island.  From  Ho.sario  Strait  the  southwestern  jtoint  bears  nearly  north- 
west by  west  about  eighteen  miles.  From  I'oint  Whitchorn  it  bears  we.st  distant 
twelve  miles. 

On  the  outer  or  fiulf  of  Georgia  siik;  of  I'oint  Iloberts  the  shore  runs  about 
northwest  one  ((iiarter  west  for  nine  miles  to  the  .southern  and  jirineipal  mouth  of 
Fraser  iJiver.  To  the  mouth  of  the  river,  at  the  outer  edge  of  the  tStKnicon  Jliiiil,; 
the  bearing  is  west  by  north,  and  distance  nine  and  two-thirds  iiiile.s.  Th«  south 
face  runs  east-uortheast  two  and  a  half  miles,  and  presents  for  nearly  the  entire 
1'8* 


li 


71^ 


f 


218 


(OAST  PILOT  OF  WASI1IN(;T0N  TKHKITOIJY. 


distiiiKU'  ii  bold  bliitV  nboiit   oi.r   liiiiitli'tMl  and   titty   trot  )ii;:)i,  iiml  cnvcrcd    with 

viKid.     Iliiir  a  inilf  otf  this  slioi'c,  iiiiclioia;;!-  iiiiiv  Ih- liad   in   tVoiii   tin   to  tit'tfrn 

t'litiionis,  but  in  Hoiilhcily  weatiit-r  it  ninst  lie  avoidt'd.     Thr  casti'iii   shore  oj'  tlie 

point  inns  nearly  paralh-l  with  tin-  wcstciii  tor  t'onr  oi'  livi-  niih-s,     ( )IV  the  sontli- 
cast  point,  rocks  and  I'onI  bottom  extend  sontlnast  t'oi-<|nitc  a  inilr. 

The  ;f»'o;riaphi<al  position  of  the  .southwesteiii  pttint,  a.s  dotfiinint'd  by  the 
Tnitcd  States  Coast  Survey,  is: 

Latitude 4S  oS  ir..l  north. 

Lonj,'itnde \'S.\  (H  ](».."»  west. 

It  is  therefore  nearly  two  miles  south  of  the  northwestern  boundary  of  the 
United  States.     JJetween  this  station  ami  the  bIntVlies  a  jnarsh. 

Point  l{oberts  was  diseovered  and  nanu'd  the  IV'uinsnla  de  re|»»''(hi  in  1701. 
It  was  nanu-d  Point  Koberts  by  Vaneouver  in  171)1*,  and  is  ealled  Itoberts  Point 
on  English  admiralty  charts  of  ist7  and  ls,V,», 


IMMTiSIl  (."OH'MnrA. 

The  sontheni  part  of  this  territory  was  nanu-d  New  (i»'orf;ia,  by  N'aneouver, 
iu  17y-.     It  received  its  present  nanu'  by  order  of  the  IJriti.sh  yoverumeiit,  in  lH',/-). 

FlJASKi:    ItlVKU. 

The  mouth  of  this  river  on  the  f;ulf  ed;;e  of  the  Sturj^eon  Hank,  lies  west  by 
north  nine  and  two  thirds  miles  from  the  southwest  i»art  of  Point  JJoberts.  That 
part  of  the  bank  south  of  the  river  is  now  called  Iioberts'  IJank,  and  that  to  the 
northward  retains  the  name  Sturyeon  liank.  yiven  to  the  whole  by  Vancouver  in 
17!ti.'. 

The  current  of  the  river  is  said  to  have  a  velocity  of  from  tive  to  ei^iht  miles  in 
some  i»arts.  Thrt)ny,hout  its  navi},'able  extent  it  is  very  mirrow  ami  crooked. 
Since  the  discovery  of  jiold  in  this  re;;ion  a  hnjje  trathc  has  arisen,  and  several 
steamboats  run  iij»on  the  river. 

The  southern  point  of  the  entrance  to  the  river  is  named  Pelly Point;  and  the 
northern,  (Jarry  Point. 

The  followinjj^  ollicial  notice  in  relaticm  to  the  buoys  through  the  Sturgeon 
Bank  is  all  that  we  have  to  present.     It  was  published  in  September  185!) : 

The  entrance  to  Fraser  JMver  has  been  rebuoyed.  All  the  buoys  are  placed 
on  the  northern  or  port  side  of  the  ehauuel  on  entering,  with  the  exception  of  one 
on  the  south  sand  head. 

The  following  memorandum  points  out  the  position  and  gives  the  description 
of  each  buoy : 

On  the  simtli  s((n(l  head. — A  spar-buoj*  moored  in  eleven  feet  at  low  water. 
The  s[»ar  is  painted  white  and  black  in  horizontal  stripes,  ami  surmoxuited  by  a 
ball  of  the  same  colors,  also  in  horizontal  strii»es. 

On  the  north  mnd  head. — A  spar-buoy  moored  in  eleven  feet.    The  spar  is 


iTcd  Willi 
to  tirtrt'ii 
»r»'  ol'  llu- 
he   soiilli- 

I'll  by  the 

1  north. 
•">  west. 

my  of  the 

:i  in  IT'U. 
■Its  J'oint 


ancouver, 
it, in  la,)-). 


s  west  by 
Its.  Tliat 
lat  to  the 
leouver  in 

it  miles  in 
;  crooked. 
1(1  several 

t ;  and  the 

Sturgeon 

ire  placed 
ion  of  one 

escrii)tiou 

ow  water, 
nted  by  a 

le  spar  is 


COAST  riLOT  OF  AVASITINGTOX  TKIJIMTOUY. 


21{» 


])ainted  black  and  white  in  vertieal  stripes,  and  siirnittunted  by  a  ball  paiiite«l  in 
the  same  manner. 

Oh  the  north  siile  of  the  chdnml. — A  spar-buoy  nmoM'd  in  nine  I'ect.  The  sjiar 
is  painted  black  and  white  in  horizontal  st 'ipcs,  and  siirnionntcd  by  a  red  Itall. 

1.  A  spar  buoy  moored  in  twelve  feet.  The  spar  is  painted  in  black  and  white 
liori/.ontal  stripes,  and  siirinoiintcd  by  a  white  diamond  marked  1. 

li.  A  spar-l)iioy  moored  in  twelve  t'cet.  The  spar  is  painted  white  and  .sur- 
mounted by  a  bhu;k  diamond  marked  2. 

;{.  A  si)ar-buoy  moored  ill  eleven  I'eet.  The  spar  is  painted  white  and  siir- 
inoiinted  by  a  red  diamond  marked  .'3. 

4.  A  spar  buoy  moored  in  eleven  feet.  The  spar  is  painted  white  and  sur- 
mounted by  a  crescent  red  and  black  marked  I. 

.").  A  spar  buoy  moored  in  twelve  lect.  The  spar  is  ]»aiiited  in  black  and  white 
vertical  stripes,  surmoii'ited  by  a  red  crescent  marked  ~). 

On  entering  the  river,  tlie  sand  head  buoys  should  uot  be  ai»proachcd  within 
lialf  a  mile  until  the  pas-<a.i,'C  between  them  is  broiij-ht  to  bear  north  half  east, 
when  a  vessel  may  m  er  in,  in  inid-cli;uiiiel,  or  pass  the  north  sand  head  biu»y  and 
the  lirst  one  inside  it  about  Mirec  iiiindred  yards. 

The  rcmaiiiin;'-  live  bu(>'  s  on  the  north  side  of  the  chaimel  may  be  passed 
from  «)ue  liuiidred  to  two  hundred  ami  tifty  yartls,  keepiiifj  them  on  the  port  hand. 
After  passing  the  inner  buoy,  a  straight  course  for  Garry  J'oint  may  be  steered. 

It  should  be  rennMiibered  that  the  ebb  current  sets  to  the  southward  over  IJob- 
erts'  Hank,  and  the  Hood  to  the  northward  over  the  Sturgeon  I'.aidv. 

The  buoys  assume  a  leaning  i)osition,  varying  from  au  angle  of  li'P  to  .StF  ac- 
cording to  the  state  of  the  current  and  wind,  and  can  be  plaiiih  seen  from  ves- 
sels' decks  at  a  distauce  of  three  miles  in  clear  weather. 

By  following  the  foregoing  directions,  a  vessel  drawing  from  fifteen  to  sixteen 
feet  of  water  may  enter  the  Kraser  Itivcr  with  safety  at  half  tide. 

Vessels  from  the  s(mthward,  passing  Point  Iloberts,  must  avoid  lioberts'  IJank, 
which  is  very  steejt.  By  uot  bringing  the  low  part  of  the  point  to  the  southward 
of  east  the  bank  will  be  cleared. 

LIGHT-SHIP   AT  ENTRAXCK   TO   FRASKB  IJIVKR. 

A  light-vessel  has  been  established  at  the  sand  heads,  entrance^  to  Fraser 
River,  and  olf  the  western  edge  of  Ifoberts'  Bank.  The  vessel  is  painted  red, 
with  the  words  "  South  Sand  Head  "  in  white  letters  of  two  feet  in  length  on 
ber  sides;  she  has  two  masts,  and  curries  at  the  main  a  skeleton  ball  live  feet  in 
diameter. 

The  light  is  n  fixed  white  light,  and  in  clear  weather  can  bo  seen  at  a  distance 
of  eleven  miles. 

In  foggy  weatlier  a  bell  is  sounded. 

The  vessel  lies  in  ten  fathoms  water,  with  Garry  Point  bearing  ncn-th  by  cast 
three-(puirters  east  easterly,  distant  tive  and  one-lifth  miles  ;  north  Sand  Head  buoy 


220  COAST  riLOT  OF  WASniXGTOX  TERRITOllY. 

iiortlnvcst  by  north  ono-qiiarter  north,  distant  seven  cabk's;  and  the  south  Sand 
Head  l»no,v  east  northeast,  distant  two  eabh's. 

Tl'.v  approximate  geographieal  position  of  the  light  is: 

a  I        II 

Latitude 41>  O.".  ."50  luirth. 

Longitude li;3  17  10  west. 

ft.      I».         K. 

Or,   in  finie 8  i;5  OD.L 

Tilt'  magnetic  variation  was  22°  .'5.V  cast  in  ISUO. 

Tiic  river  was  disi^overed  by  ICliza  in  ITitO;  and  in  1702  CJaliant*  infoiined 
Vancouver  tiiat  it  was  called  tlie  IJio  IJlancho,  (IManco,)  in  lionor  of  the  then 
prinu'  nunister  of  Spain,  but  thai  it  had  been  searchetl  for  in  vain.  It  receives  its 
present  name  from  its  explorer. 

The  slioal  oft"  it  Vancouver  named  the  Sturgeon  Baitl-  in  1792. 

NA?(AniO  HAY. 

This  bay  lies  on  Vancouver  Island,  north  of  the  fcnty-ninth  parallel,  and  wo 
refer  to  it  because  large  supplies  of  tlie  best  coal  in  this  region  are  there  obtained, 
and  it  is  used  by  all  the  steamers  in  thesis  waters. 

Tlie  onti'r  entrance  to  the  harbor  is  in  latitude  49°  12'  noith,  longitude  123° 
51'  west,  and  bears  west  one-(piarter  north  thirty-three  miles  from  Point  Koberts. 
From  the  entrance  the  mid-channel  course  runs  south  half  west  live  miles, 
passing  a  siPiill  island  on  the  northwest  at  the  distance  of  a  mile,  and  a  lar; 
island,  with  islets  oil  its  north  point,  three-quarters  of  a  mile  on  the  east.  This 
course  gradually  approaches  Douglas  Island  on  the  west,  abreast  of  a  wide  chan- 
nel to  the  east,  and  is  nmnded  quite  c'ose.  The  mines  will  then  lie  about  Avest- 
southwest  a  mile  distant,  with  a  small  islet  in  front  of  them.  The  bottom  is 
uneven ;  some  sunken  rock  occur,  and  the  anchorage  near  the  rivers  is  so 
contracted  that  the  vessels  must  moor.  Pilots  w  ill  be  found  here  to  take  ves- 
sels in. 

The  price  of  the  coal  per  ton  is  about  six  dollars,  but  it  is  light ;  occupies  one- 
fifth  more  spai;e  tiian  Welsh  coal;  burns  rapidly  with  rtanie  and  niiu'h  smoke;  dis- 
engages a  great  deal  of  gis,  and  produces  clinker  in  abundance.  It  is,  however, 
superior  to  the  coal  of  JJellingliam  Bay. 

The  usual  spelling  of  this  name  is  Xanaimo,  but  that  best  representing  the 
sound  is  Nah-ny'  nioh. 

Of  the  western  .shores  of  the  (lulf  of  (Icorgia  we  can  say  but  little.  The  cur- 
rents rush  past  its  precii>itous  siiores  with  great  velocity,  and,  (piite  recently,  the 
Coast  Survey  brig  Fauntleroy  drifted,  with  thirty-eight  fathoms  of  chain  at  her 
bows,  in  a  calm,  for  miles  along,  and  within  eighty  yards  of  the  rocks  before  she 
brought  up.  In  one  or  two  instances  preceding  this  the  lead  indicated  bottom  in 
ten  fathoms,  the  next  cast  showing  forty  or  lifty  fathoms. 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TEERITOEY, 


221 


ioutb  Saml 


iO  north. 

(>  Wt'St. 

iiifoi'iiu'd 

tlu'  then 

'CL'ivos  its 


I,  and  wo 
obtained, 

tude  1230 
Itobeits. 
e  iniU's, 
a  hii't ', 
«t.  This 
ide  chan- 
jut  Avest- 
ottoni  is 
I's  is  so 
;ake  ves- 

[»ies  onc- 
ike;  dis- 
lowcver, 

ting-  tho 

riie  cur- 
itly,  the 
I  at  her 
"ore  she 
ttoni  in 


AKCIIIPELACO  DE    IIAKO. 

TlIK   TAVO  fciTUAlTS. 

"VVitii  pU-nty  of  Avind  no  navi-^ation  eonhl  be  better  than  that  in  these  chan- 
nels; but  in  a  eabn,  sailing;  vessels  will  frequently  be  janmied  close  to  loeks,  with 
oidy  a  few  fathoms  inside  of  their  positions,  but  forty  or  lifty  outside,  and  a  swill- 
ing current  that  renders  toAving  with  boats  utterly  iuipt>ssil)le.  Frequently,  too, 
boats  haA-e  been  nearly  swamped  by  the  thio  rips  that  exist  through  them.  Otf 
East  Point,  as  an  instance,  a  live-oared  whale-boat  entirely  failed  to  hold  her  own 
against  the  <'urrent,  Avhicli  Ave  judged  to  be  rushoui  (the  only  term  applicable)  at  the 
rate  of  seven  miles  i>er  liour.  Throughout  tlie  Canal  de  Maro  the  roar  of  the  con- 
flicting currents  can  be  heard  lor  miles,  and  the  main  cuirent  runs  fn-ipu'iitly  six 
miles  per  hour.  No  anchorages  exist  in  this  channel,  except  at  Cordova  Bay,  but 
it  is  free  of  knoAvn  hidden  dangers,  exeei>t  Unit  Bock,  and  the  continuation  of  the 
reef  oft"  Darcy  Island.  It  makes  a  right  angle  in  its  course,  but  is  a  mile  Avider, 
and  has  much  deeper  Avater  than  Kosario  Strait,  Avliich  is  less  curved  ;  has  several 
anchorages  and  known  dangerous  rocks,  with  a  current  of  al)out  one  and  a  half 
miles  less  ]»er  hour.  For  steamers,  either  channel,  or  CA'cn  some  of  the  narrow 
intermediate  chaniu'ls,  may  be  used.  The  Aviids  are  apt  to  fail  in  both  channels, 
and  dining  summer  frequent  calms  prevail. 

Steamers  bound  through  the  Gulf  of  Georgia  from  the  Strait  of  Fuca  take  the 
Camd  de  Ilaro  to  the  entrance  of  the  Swanson  Channel,  abreast  the  Avest  end  of 
Stuart  Island;  through  that  channel  t(»  the  Active  Pass,  and  thence  to  the  Gulf  of 
Georgia  ;  thus  avoiding  the  currents  of  the  nortiiern  part  of  the  Canal  de  Ilaro. 

On  the  recent  Cnited  States  Coast  Survey  nuips  this  aggregation  of  ishmds 
ami  channels  has  been  named  Washington  Sound. 

BELLlNOnA^r  UAV. 

After  leaving  Posario  Strait,  the  course  upon  entering  the  Bellingham  Chan- 
nel,* two  miles  Avide,  opening  south  of  Cypress  Island,  is  northeast  for  two  miles. 
The  Avidth  then  decreases  to  a  mile,  ni)on  turning  sharp  around  the  southeast 
point  of  Cypress;  and  to  tlu>  eastward  are  seen  the  bright,  yellowish  blniVs  of 
(iitcmes  Island.  JJetwcen  these  two  islands  the  channel  runs  about  three  miles 
on  a  north  by  Avest  half  Avest  course.  Abrc^ist  of  the  north  end  of  (Juemes, 
(Avhich  is  a  steep  bluli',)  and  on  the  west  side  of  the  channel,  are  several  small, 
high,  wooded  islets,  called  tho  Cone  Islands^  Tho  moderately  loAV,  Avooded  island 
facing  the  channel  is  Sinclair;  vessels  pass  between  the  southeast  jioint  of  it  and 
the  north  end  of  Guemes.  Tin-  island  a  couple  of  miles  to  the  northeast  is  Ven- 
(loviA  Pass  north  of  it,  but  south  of  the  small  islet,  (olf  Kli/.a  Island,)  Avhich  is 
t.AA-o  miles  mutheast  by  north  from  the  northwest  iKtintof  Vendovi,  and  the  south- 
ern part  of  Pellingham  Pay  opens  to  the  southeast;  its  northern  ]);\vt  opens  to  the 
north-n(uthAvest.     If  the  current  be  th»od  and  the  wind  light,  keep  close  around 


•  Niuui'd  hy  Mii>  li^iiitfd  States  CiiiiHt  Siiivoy  in  1854. 

t  Naiiinl  l)y  tlic  UiiittMl  States  cxiiloriii},' cxiicditioii,  1841. 


222 


COAST  riLOT  OF  WASHIXCITOX  TERRITORY. 


Guonios  ami  Veiulovi,  so  a.s  not  to  bo  sot  past  Sinclair  Isla,..l.  Tho  low,  l)aro, 
I'Ofky  islots,  ono  and  a  half  niilo  ncn-thwost  of  A'ondovi,  aro  tho  Yiti  Rocks;*  and 
tho  i)oint  botwoon  thonv  and  Eliza  Island  is  tho  southern  oxtrcinity  of  Liunnii 
Island.  From  tho  islot  last  passed,  a  i»oint  on  the  eastern  shore  lies  nearly  north, 
five  or  six  miles  distant.  Run  past  this,  and  follow  the  trend  of  the  shore  for  two 
or  three  miles,  to  the  deepest  part  of  that  part  of  tho  bay,  when  houses,  &c.,  will 
denote  the  positicm  of  tho  mines  and  tho  villages  of  Sohome  and  Whatcom.t  Half 
a  mile  from  tho  shore  is  capital  anchorayo  in  f(uir  fathoms,  .soft  bottom,  and  the 
bay  there  is  very  snutoth. 

Tho  {jonoral  direction  of  I>ollinj>liam  Bay  is  southeast  and  northwest ;.  its  width 
three  miles,  and  lenjjfth  fourteen,  extending  from  latitude  48°  33' to  latitude  48°  48'. 
The  depth  of  water  ranges  from  three  to  twenty  fathoms,  with  good  sticky  bottom. 

There  are  several  com])anios  mining  hero,  but  tho  amount  of  (toal  obtained  is 
not  groat.  Its  (luality  is  not  good,  the  furnaces  producing  soniotinu's  as  much 
clinker  and  ashes  in  bulk,  and  half  tho  amount  in  weight,  of  tho  coal  put  in.  Del- 
eterious gas  is  freely  disengaged,  and  tho  combustion  also  evolves  clouds  of  black 
smoke.  In  tho  experiment  which  wo  witnessed,  in  18.j3,  the  stoanun's  furnaces 
could  not,  in  two  attempts,  be  kept  ui>  ?o  as  to  produce  a  suniciency  of  steam.  In 
18G8  the  mines  were  abaiuloaod  on  account  of  the  fires  raging  through  them. 

A  saw-mill  is  located  ui)on  tho  bay  at  one  of  tho  villages. 

JJellingham  Ray  was  lirst  surveyed  by  Whidboy,  under  Yancouvor's  orders, 
in  1702,  and  then  received  its  present  name.  In  some  recent  maps  tho  northern 
portion  is  called  Gaston  Bay,  and  for  tho  southern  part  tho  original  name  is 
retained ;  but  Yancouvor's  designation  is  that  universally  adopted  on  the  western 
coast. 

A  military  station  is  located  at  tho  upper  part  of  the  bay.  opposite  tho  coal  mines. 

A  hydrographic  sketch  of  tho  bay  was  published  in  tho  Coast  Survey  report 
for  18r»0. 

The  amount  of  shore-lino  in  tho  Archipelago  do  Haro,  Bellingham  Bay,  Pos- 
session Sound,  «Jcc.,  is  six  hundred  aiul  tweiity-sevou  miles. 

"Wo  never  heard  thunder  in  this  Territory,  except  in  one  instance,  at  Cypress 
Island,  in  Rosario  Strait. 

AinnRALTY  IXLET. — aE>'EKAL  FKATI-RESI. 

This  inlet  may  bo  described  as  a  vast  canal,  commencing  at  tho  southeast 
extremity  of  the  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  and  running  in  a  general  southeast  by 
south  direction,  for  sixty  miles,  to  the  south  end  of  Yashon  Island.  It  has  for 
that  length  an  average  width  of  throe  and  a  half  miles,  and  then  branches  into  a 
multitm'c  of  arms,  wiiich  cover  an  area  of  about  fourteen  by  twenty-two  miles. 
Their  general  direction  is  southwest  throe-ciuarters  south,  and  they  comprise  what 
is  called  Pugot  Sound. 

At  sixteen  miles  from  the  entrance  to  tiio  iulot,  an  arm,  called  Hood's  Canal, 


*N':iiiii(|  liv  the  fiiitiil  Stiiti's  I'xplo'injj;  »>xi«'iliti(>u.  l»f'41. 
t  Tile  liulijin  i,,iinc  I'm-  ••  Niiisv  WjitiT."  tlir  nutlet  of  the  liiki' 


COAST  riLOT  OF  WASrilXGTOX  TKRKITORY. 


223 


opens  upon  the  wostorn  sido,  and  runs  sixty  miles  south  by  west,  with  an  a.criijie 
width  of  one  and  a  haU'  mile.  Twenty-five  miles  from  the  entrance  of  .the  inlet, 
another  arm  opens  on  the  eastern  side,  runs  north  and  northwi-st  bcliind  Whidbey 
Island,  foriniiij,'  Possession  Sound,  I'oits  (lardnerand  Susan,  &».'..  and  leads  on  to  the 
Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuoa  through  Deeeptioii  Pass,  at  the  north  end  of  Whidbey  Island. 

The  shores  are  generally  blulfs,  langing  from  fifty  to  five  luuidred  feet  in 
height,  with  their  sides  kept  bright  by  the  gradual  wearing  action  of  the  water,  ajul 
their  tops  covered  with  trees  and  thick  unth'rgrowth  to  their  very  edges.  There  is  so 
much  sameness  in  the  shores  that  it  retiuires  some  actniaintance  with  the  different 
points  to  recognize  them  by  their  trifling  ]K!culiarities.  The  depth  of  water  in  the 
channels  is  remarkably  great,  i)erhaps  averaging  one  hundred  fathoms,  and  it  is 
sometimes  diflicult  to  find  anchorage  (Milliciently  far  from  the  shore  to  afford  room 
for  getting  under  way.  Many  superior  harbors  are  found  in  eveiy  direction,  and 
small  settlements  are  gradually  springing  up  in  favorable  localities. 

Admiralty  Inlet,  Hood's  Canal,  ami  Paget  Souiul,  have  an  aggregate  shore- 
line of  not  less  than  eight  hundred  and  three  miles,  yet  the  number  of  dangers 
known  to  exist  in  them  is  rennukably  few. 

One  of  the  inlets  or  arms  of  Paget  Sound  reaches  within  two  aiiles  of  the 
head  of  Uood's  Canal,  and  between  them  lies  a  large  lake.  The  southern  Maters 
of  this  sound  are  also  within  sixty-five  miles,  in  a  dire  t  line,  of  the  Columbia 
Kiver,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Cowlitz,  which  is  fifty-two  niile.s  from  Cajte  l)isii[>point- 
ment;  and  within  twenty  miles  of  the  ui>per  waters  of  tiie  Chehalis  Piver,  which 
runs  into  Gray's  Bay.  At  present,  the  route  travelled  from  the  Columbia  !■;  by 
canoes,  for  twenty-eight  miles,  up  the  CoAvlitz  to  the  settlement  at  ••  Cowlitz 
Landing,"  (or  by  horse  over  a  somewhat  bad  path.)  and  then  by  horses  or  iiuiles 
to  Olympia,  fifty-two  miles,  over  a  tolerably  level  country,  and  by  a  road  moder- 
ately good  in  summer,  but  l)ad  in  winter.  The  distance  can  be  made  in  one  day 
with  a  good  horse.  From  m  here  the  road  strikes  the  <.'iiehalis  the  river  is  navi- 
gable for  large  boats  to  Cray's  Harbor,  to  which  a  small  steamboat  makes  trips. 
We  judged  the  stream  to  be  aliout  one  hundred  yards  wide.  It  had  a])parently 
plenty  of  water  and  a  slow  currt'iit.  T.  Cowlitz  has  a  rajiid  current,  and  at  a 
low  stage  of  the  water,  canoes  are  poled  up  its  channel ;  during  freshets  they  are 
dragged  uj),  the  crews  cling  to  the  branches  of  the  trees  ujton  its  banks.  Two 
days  of  labor  are  then  re<[uired  for  the  trip,  but  in  sununer  it  is  made  in  one. 

The  importance  of  these  close  relations  of  the  waters  of  the  Columbia  lliver, 
Puget  Sound,  Admiralty  Inlet,  Cray's  Harbor,  and  Shoal  water  Bay,  in  view  of 
the  prosperity  of  the  two  Territories,  nnist  l)e  n.anifest,  without  entering  into 
details  of  the  feasibility  of  their  connection  by  railroads  and  canals. 

The  inlet  was  discovered  by  (i)uim|)er,  in  ]"!ti»,  and  called  the  Canal  de 
Caamano,  It  was  first  explored  and  maih-  known  in  171L',  by  ^'aln•lluv^■|•.  who 
applied  the  jtreseut  name  to  it. 

A  reet)nnaissance  sketch  of  Admiralty  Inlet  was  published  by  the  Coast  Sur- 
vev  in  IS-'i-t. 


224  COAST  PILOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TEREITORY. 

We  ■will  not  attempt  to  give  in  full  finl  explicit  detail  all  the  ])eculiarities  of 
this  vast  area  of  waters,  but,  following  the  niid-ehaniiel  courses,  will  only  note 
generally  the  objects  as  they  come  under  tlie  eye  of  the  navigator. 

The  entrance  to  the  inlet  lies  between  Point  Parti  Idge,  on  Whidbcy  Island, 
and  I'oint  Wilson,  on  the  main  at  the  entrance  to  Port  Townsiu'ud.  The  bearing 
of  the  latter  point  from  the  former  is  southeast  by  south  half  south,  four  and  a  half 
miles;  and  die  bluff  head  lying  two  or  three  miles  io  the  east  of  this  line,  desti- 
tute of  trees,  and  marked  by  a  lighthouse,  is  Admiralty  Head,  around  which  the 
ebb  current,  and  an  ebb  eddy  on  the  tlood,  sweep  with  force. 

The  first  course  inside  of  the  entrance  of  the  inlet  is  east-southeast  six  and  a 
half  miles,  jiassing  Port  Townshend  on  the  south.  Admiralty  Head  on  the  north, 
and  changing  the  course  abreast  of  Marrowstone  Point  on  the  west-southwest. 

POOT   PARTRIDGE. 

This  is  the  western  point  of  Whidbey  Island,  and  directly  faces  the  Strait  of 
Juan  de  Fuca.  It  is  very  steep  and  yellow,  and  flat  on  the  summit,  which  is  cov- 
ered with  spruce,  flr,  and  cedar.  The  jioint  is  so  rounding  tiiat  it  is  not  easily 
recognized  on  coming  from  the  westward,  but  from  the  soutli  and  north  it  is  well 
marked  and  prominent.  Its  face  is  composed  of  loose  sand,  which,  being  blown 
up  the  hill  by  the  strong  west  winds,  has  formed  a  very  jjceuliar  ridge  on  the 
outer  face  of  the  top.  This  is  so  narrow  that  it  can  hardlv  be  travelled,  and  in 
many  places  it  is  thiity-iive  feet  above  the  ground  inside;  yet  being  overgrown 
with  bushes,  the  ridge  is  now  permanent. 

The  highest  part  of  the  point  is  about  two  hundred  and  sixty  feet  above  low 
water. 

The  triangulation  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  was  on  the  southern  part  of 
the  i)oint,  and  its  geograiihical  positir  >.  is  : 

Latitude 48  12  5(».o  nortli. 

Longitude 122  -15  0G.7  west 

h.    m.      s. 

Or,  in  time 8  11  00.  i 

From  Point  Wilson  it  bears  northwest  by  north  half  north,  four  and  a  quarter 
miles. 

From  Admiralty  Head  lighthouse  northwest  by  Avest  three-quarters  west,  fve 
and  a  quarter  miles. 

From  New  Dungeness  light  it  bears  north  by  east  one-third  east,  fourteen 
miles. 

The  point  received  its  ])resent  name  from  Vancouver,  in  1702. 

PORT  TOWNSIIKXD. 

This  harbor  is  favorably  situated  at  the  termination  of  the  Strait  of  Juan  de 
Fuca,  at  the  outlet  of  the  watt'is  of  Admiralty  Inlet,  Paget  Sound,  &c.,  and  in 
proximity  to  tlu^  great  labyrinth  of  inland  wafers  of  Uritish   (Columbia.     The 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASUIJ^GTON  TEKKITOllY. 


225 


firities  of 
»iily  uote 

y  Isliuid, 
)  bearing 
lul  ii  bait" 
110,  (losti- 
iliich  the 

<ix  and  a 
III!  north, 
west. 


Strait  of 
i!h  is  cov- 
iiot  easily 
it  is  well 
i\<^  blown 
f'C  on  the 
(1,  and  in 


b(vvo  low 
n  ]>art  of 

>  north. 
Avest, 

I  quarter 

rtost,  fve 

fourteen 


Juan  de 
l;.,  and  in 
»ia.     The. 


entrance  lies  between  Point  Wilson*  and  Marrowstone  Point,*  the  latter  bearing 
east-southeast  three  and  live-eighths  miles  from  the  former.  Upon  this  line,  and 
even  outside  of  it.  lies  a  bank  extending  two-thirds  of  tiie  distaniie  from  Marrow- 
stone,  and  having  from  six  to  lifteen  fathoms,  with  hard,  sandy  bottom.  Inside  of 
Point  Wilson,  which  is  composed  of  low,  sandy  hillocics,  as  heretofore  described, 
lies  another  low  point  called  Point  lIudson,t  tUstaut  one  and  three-ijuarters  miles, 
southeast  by  south  half  south. 

Starting  from  the  entrance  line,  about  one  and  a  half  juiles  from  ^Farrowstone, 
the  mid-channel  course  of  tiui  bay  is  south-southwest,  three  miles,  with  an  average 
width  of  two;  thence  southeast  oKC-third  south  for  three  and  a  i|uarter  mili's,  with 
an  average  width  of  one  and  a  (piarter.  Tiie  depth  of  water  throughout  is  very 
regular,  and  ranges  from  eight  to  filteen  fathoms,  with  soft,  muddy  bottom  inside 
of  Point  Hudson.  Vessels  coming  from  the  strait  steer  for  Point  Hudson,  as  soon 
as  it  is  opened  by  Point  Wilson,  i)assing  the  latter  close,  as  twenty  fathoms  are 
found  one  hundred  or  two  hundred  yards  oft'  it.  L'pon  approaching  I'oint  Hud- 
son, and  when  within  half  a  mile  of  it,  gradually  keep  away  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  in  from  live  to  ten  fathoms,  und,  as  it  opens,  run  quite  close,  with  tlie 
summer  wind  oft'  shore,  to  save  making  a  tack;  keep  along  half  a  mile  to  the 
town  situated  und(>r  the  Prairie  lilutf,  and  anchor  anywhere  otY  the  town  in  ten  to 
twelve  fathoms,  about  a  quaiter  of  a  mile  from  shore.  In  winter,  anchor  further 
out,  to  clear  Point  Hudson,  in  getting  under  way  witii  a  soutiieaster. 

When  coming  do>vn  the  inlet,  bound  into  the  bay,  witii  the  ebb  current,  pass 
Marrowstone  nearly  three-cpuirters  of  a  mile  before  heading  in  for  the  town,  and  so 
avoid  a  very  strong  eddy  which  comes  out  of  the  bay  along  the  bluff  shore  west 
of  this  point.  If  the  wind  be  light  and  the  current  strong,  pass  the  point  quite 
close  by;  run  along  the  outside  of  the  rip,  and  try  to  get  upon  the  bank  as  soon 
as  practicable. 

In  sununer,  vessels  frequently  drift  about  the  entrance  for  days,  without  a 
breath  of  wind,  and  in  verj'  strong  currents. 

TIDES. 

The  corrected  establishment  or  mean  interval  between  the  time  of  the  moon's 
transit  and  the  time  of  high  water  is  3/i.  4!b;i.  The  mean  rise  and  fall  of  tides  is 
4.C  feet;  of  spring  tides,  5..")  feet;  and  of  neap  tides,  -1.0  feet.  The  mean  duration 
of  the  flood  is  Gh.  .'J4»j.,  and  of  the  ebb,  5h.  't2m.  The  mean  dift'erence  between 
the  correi'ted  establishments  of  the  a.  ni.  and  p.  ni.  tides  of  the  same  day  is  2h. 
22m.  for  high  water,  and  U/j.  .'iow.  for  low  water.  When  the  moon's  declination  is 
greatest  these  ditferences  are  4/(.  .'?Sw.  and  Oh.  27jh.,  respectively;  and  when  the 
moon's  declination  is  zero,  they  are  O/i.  iOin.  and  Oh,  2!»;h.  The  njean  dift'erence  in 
height  of  these  two  tides  is  1.1  feet  for  the  high  waters,  and  4.(5  feet  for  the  low 
waters;  when  the  nuwu's  declination  is  the  greatest,  they  are  O.C  foot  and  7.3  feet, 


*  Niiinoil  by  Vuucuuvei'  in  17iW.     On  one  edition  of  the  maps  of  tlie   United  .States  Exjdorinf; 
Expedition  the  latter  point  is  called  I'oint  Carroll ;  and  on  another,  Point  Hinj{noIcl. 
tNanied  by  the  United  States  Exploiin;;  Exi>edition,  Ih.M. 
'Jit* 


22G 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TEimiTORY. 


aud  wlion  the  moon's  dodiuatiou  is  zero  1. -4  feet  and  lA  feet.  When  the  moon's 
declination  is  greatest,  and  north,  the  two  high  waters  of  the  day  follow  the 
moon's  upper  transit,  respectively,  by  about  dh.  Sm.  and  13/i.  6iim.,  and  when 
greatest,  and  south,  by  about  l/i.  30m.  and  18/i.  34m.,  the  height  of  the  two  being 
about  equal.  When  the  moon's  declination  is  zero,  and  passing  from  north  to 
south,  they  follow  the  moon's  transit  by  about  4/i.  9m.  and  15/i.  ;j3m.,  and  the  first 
rises  about  lA  feet  liigher  than  the  second.  When  the  moon's  declination  is  zero, 
and  passing  from  south  to  north,  tiiey  follow  the  moon's  transit  by  about  3/(.  L"Jm. 
and  lOA.  35m.,  and  the  second  rises  higher  than  the  first  by  the  same  quantity. 
When  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest,  north  or  south,  the  two  low  waters 
follow  the  moon's  transit  by  about  9/i.  ilm.  and  22h.  7m.,  but  when  north  the 
second  falls  lower  than  the  first  by  about  7.3  feet,  and  when  south  the  first  falls 
lower  by  that  (piantity.  When  the  moon's  declination  is  zero,  the  two  low  waters 
fall  nearly  equally.  The  greatest  ditference  observed  between  the  heights  of  the 
two  low  waters  of  a  day  was  S.G  feet,  and  the  greatest  diflereuce  between  the 
higher  high  and  the  lowei"  low  water  of  a  day  Avas  10.1  feet. 

The  two  tides  of  the  same  day  are  generally  unequal  in  proportion  to  the 
moon's  deeliiuition.  The  time  and  height  can  be  obtained  approximately  from  the 
following  table: 

TIDE  TABLES  FOll  PORT  TOWNSHEXD. 
TABLE  1. 


.* 

80LTI1  DECLINATION 

—DAYS  KllOM  MOON'S  GHEATEST  HECI.INATION. 

p    ^    " 

Before — 

0 

Aftcr- 

- 

7 

f> 

5       1 

4 

3 

3 

1 

1 

A.  m. 

2    ! 

3 

4 

i 

5 

6 

7 

A.  VI, 

h.  m. 

h.  m. 

h.  m. 

li.  m. 

h.  m. 

h.  m. 

A.  m. 

h.  m. 

A.  m. 

fl.  m. 

,         1 
A.  m. 

A.  m. 

h.  m. 

h.  m. 

0    0 

3  45 

3  21 

2  51 

2    2 

1  32 

1  13 

1  2li 

1  44 

2    2 

2  21 

2  42 

2  57 

3  15 

3  33 

3  45 

0  30 

3  38 

3  14 

a  44 

1  55 

1  25 

1     6 

1  19 

1  37 

1  55 

2  14 

2  35 

a  50 

3    8 

3  36 

3  38 

1    0 

3  32 

3    8 

2  38 

1  4!) 

1  1ft 

1     0 

1  13 

1  31 

1  49 

2    8 

2  29 

2  44 

3    2 

3  20 

3  32 

1  30 

3  ifi 

3    2 

2  32 

1  43 

1   13 

0  51 

1     7 

1  25 

.43 

2    2 

2  23 

a  38 

2  56 

3  14 

3  26 

a  0 

3  21 

2  5- 

2  27 

I  38 

1     8 

0  49 

1    2 

1  20 

1  38 

1  57 

2  18 

2  33 

2  51 

3    9 

3  21 

a  30 

3  18 

2  54 

2  24 

1  35 

1    5 

0  40 

0  59 

1  17 

1  35 

1  54 

2  15 

a  20 

2  48 

3    6 

3  18 

3    0 

3  IG 

a  52 

2  22 

1  33 

1     3 

0  44 

0  57 

1  15 

1  33 

1  52 

2  13 

8  38 

2  46 

3    4 

3  16 

3  30 

3  17 

2  5:1 

2  23 

1  34 

1     4 

0  45 

0  58 

1  16 

1  34 

1  53 

2  14 

2  39 

2  47 

3    5 

3  17 

4    fl 

3  21 

2  57 

2  37 

1  38 

1    8 

0  49 

1    3 

1  20 

1  38 

1  57 

2  18 

2  33 

2  51 

3    9 

3  31 

4  30 

3  2fi 

3    2 

a  33 

1  43 

1  13 

0  54 

1     7 

1  ?.5 

1  43 

2   a 

3  33 

2  38 

2  56 

3  14 

3  26 

5    0 

3  32 

3    8 

2  38 

1  49 

1  19 

1    0 

1  13 

1  31 

1  49 

3    8 

3  29 

2  44 

3    3 

320 

3  33 

r>  30 

3  41 

3  17 

2  4/ 

1  58 

1  28 

1    9 

1  32 

1  40 

1  58 

2  17 

3  38 

2  53 

3  11 

3  29 

3  41 

n   0 

3  52 

3  28 

2  58 

2    9 

1  39 

1  20 

1  33 

1  51 

2    9 

2  28 

2  49 

3     4 

3  22 

3  40 

3  52 

n  30 

4     1 

3  37 

3     7 

2  18 

1  48 

1  39 

1  42 

2    0 

2  18 

2  37 

2  58 

3  13 

3  31 

3  49 

4     1 

7    0 

4    8 

3  44 

3  14 

2  25 

1  55 

1  36 

1  49 

2    7 

>-2  25 

2  44 

3    5 

3  20 

3  38 

3  56 

4     8 

7  30 

4  15 

3  51 

3  21 

a  32 

3    3 

1  43 

1  56 

2  14 

2  32 

a  51 

3  12 

3  27 

3  45 

4     3 

4  15 

8    0 

4  18 

3  54 

3  24 

a  35 

3    5 

1  46 

1  59 

2  17 

2  35 

2  54 

3  15 

3  30 

3  48 

4     6 

4  18 

8  30 

4  19 

3  55 

3  35 

8  3« 

3    6 

1  47 

2    0 

2  18 

2  36 

2  55 

3  16 

3  31 

3  49 

4     7 

4  19 

9    0 

4  It* 

3  54 

3  24 

2  35 

a    5 

1  46 

I  59 

2  17 

2  35 

2  54 

3  15 

3  30 

3  48 

4     .i 

4  18 

9  30 

4  15 

3  51 

3  21 

a  32 

3    2 

1  43 

1  56 

.     2  14 

2  32 

2  51 

3  12 

3  27 

3  45 

4    3 

4  15 

10    0 

4  10 

3  4fi 

■1  IB 

2  27 

1  57 

1  38 

1  51 

1     2    9 

2  27 

2  46 

3    7 

3  22 

3  40 

3  58 

4  10 

10  30 

4    6 

3  42 

3  12 

3  23 

1  53 

1  34 

1  47 

2    5 

2  23 

2  42 

3    3 

3  18 

3  :>6 

3  54 

4    6 

11     0 

4     0 

3  3B 

3    0 

3  17 

1  47 

1  38 

1  41 

1  59 

2  17 

a  36 

2  57 

3  13 

3  30 

3  48 

4    0 

11  30 

3  54 

3  30 

3    0 

3  11 

1  41 

1  83 

1  35 

1  53 

2  11 

2  30 

2  51 

3    6 

3  24 

3  42 

3  54 

;he  moon's 
follow  the 
and  when 
two  being 
n  north  to 
il  the  first 
ion  is  zero, 
lit  3/i.  29ffi. 
quantity. 
i>w  waters 
north  the 
xirst  falls 
low  waters 
hts  of  the 
!tween  the 

tion  to  the 
y  from  the 


6 

7 

A.   TO. 

h.  m. 

3  33 

3  45 

3  36 

3  38 

3  20 

3  32 

3  14 

3  26 

3    9 

3  21 

3    fi 

3  18 

3    4 

3  10 

3    5 

3  17 

3    9 

3  21 

3  14 

3  26 

3  20 

3  32 

3  29 

3  41 

3  40 

3  52 

3  49 

4     1 

3  50 

4     8 

4    3 

4  15 

4    6 

4  18 

4     7 

4  19 

4     fi 

4  18 

4    3 

4  15 

3  58 

4  10 

3  54 

4     6 

3  48 

4    0 

3  42 

3  54 

I. 

•I 

I 


A.  m. 

0  0 

0  30 

1  0 
i   30 

2  0 

2  30 

3  0 

3  30 

4  0 

4  30 

5  0 

5  30 

6  0 
e  30 

7  0 

7  30 

8  0 

8  30 

9  0 
9  30 

10  0 

10  30 

11  0 
U  30 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TEEKITORY. 


TABLE  II. 


NOKTII  DECLINATION.— HAYS  KKOM  MOON'S  OURATK8T  HKCLLNATION. 


227 


Befor(>- 


h.  m. 
3  45 
3  38 
3  32 
3  20 
3  21 
3  18 
3  16 
3  17 
3  21 
3  2fi 
3  32 
3  41 

3  .')2 

4  1 
4  8 
4  15 
4  18 
4  19 
4  18 
4  15 
4  10 
4  6 
4  0 
3  54 


h.  m. 
4  9 
4  3 

3  56 
3  50 
3  45 
3  42 
3  40 
3  41 
3  45 
3  .50 

3  56 

4  5 
4  10 
4  25 

4  32  I 
4  39  j 
4  42  I 

4  43 ; 
4  42 ; 

4  39  j 

4  34  I 
4  30 
4  24 
4  18 


h.  m. 
4  39 
4  32 
4  »U 
4  30 
4  15 
4  12 
4  10 
4  11 
4  15 
4  20 
4  30 
4  35 
4  40 

4  55 

5  3 
5  9 
5  10 
5  13 
5  12 
5  9 
5  4 
5  0 
4  54 
4  48 


A.  »i. 
5  38 
5  31 
5  15 
5  9 
5  4 
5  1 

4  59 

5  0 
5  4 
5  9 
5  15 
5  24 
5  35 
5  44 
5  51 

5  .58 

6  1 
6  2 
6  1 
5  58 
5  53 
5  49 
5  43 
5  37 


A.  »i. 
5  58 
5  51 
5  45 
5  39 
5  34 
5  31 
5  29 
5  30 
5  34 
5  39 
5  45 

5  54 

6  5 
6  14 
6  21 
0  28 
0  31 
6  32 
6  31 
6  28 
6  33 
6  19 
6  13 
6  7 


A.  m. 
6  17 
6  10 
6  4 
5  58 
5  53 
5  50 
5  48 
5  49 
5  53 

5  58 

6  4 
6  13 
6  24 
6  33 
6  40 
C  47 
6  50 
6  51 
0  50 
6  47 
6  42 
6  38 
6  32 
6  26 


A.  m. 
6    4 

5  57 
5  51 
5  45 
5  40 
5  37 
5  35 
5  36 
5  40 
5  45 

5  51 

6  0 
6  U 
0  20 
6  27 
6  34 
6  37 
6  38 
6  37 
0  34 
6  39 
6  25 
6  19 
6  13 


A.  n>. 
5  4fi 
5  39 
5  33 
5  87 
5  22 
5  19 
5  17 
5  18 
5  22 
5  27 
5  33 
5  42 

5  53 

6  2 
6  9 
6  16 
6  19 
6  20 
6  19 
6  16 
6  11 
6  7 
6  1 
5  55 


After— 


A.  in. 
5  28 
5  21 
5  15 
5  9 
5  4 
5  1 

4  59 

5  0 
5  4 
5  9 
5  15 
5  24 
5  35 
5  44 
5  51 

5  58 

6  1 
6  2 
6  1 
5  .58 


5 

53 

5 

49 

5 

43 

5 

37 

A,  111. 
5  9 
5  3 
4  56 
4  50 
4  45 
4  43 
4  40 
4  41 
4  45 
4  50 

4  56 

5  5 
5  10 
5  35 
5  33 
5  39 
5  42 
5  43 
5  42 
5  39 
5  34 
5  30 
5  24 
5  18 


A.  in. 
4  48 
4  41 
4  35 
4  39 
4  34 
4  31 
4  19 
4  20 
4  24 
4  39 
4  35  ^ 
4  44  I 

4  55 

5  4  ! 
5  11 
5  18 
5  21 
5  22 
5  21 
5  18 
5  13 
5  9 
5  3 
4  57 


A.  III. 
4  33 
4  26 
4  30 
4  14 
4  9 
4  6 


4  14 

4  20 
4  29 
4  40 
4  49 

4  56 

5  3 
5  6 
5  7 
5  6 
5  3 
4  58 
4  54 
4  48 
4  42 


K,  111. 

4  15 
4  8 
4  3 
3  56 
3  51 
3  48 
3  46 
3  47 
3  51 

3  5C 

4  3 
4  11 
4  33 
4  31 
4  38 
4  45 
4  48 
4  49 
4  48 
4  45 
4  40 
4  36 
4  30 
4  34 


A.  m. 
3  57 
3  M 
3  44 
3  38 
3  33 
3  30 
3  28 
3  29 

3  ;t3 

3  38 
3  44 

3  53 

4  4 
4  13 
4  20 
4  37 
4  30 
4  31 
4  30 
4  37 
4  3*^ 
4  18 
4  12 
4  fi 


A.  m. 
3  45 
3  38 
3  38 
3  36 
3  31 
3  18 
3  16 
3  17 
3  31 
3  26 
3  32 
3  41 

3  ,52 

4  1 
4  8 
4  15 
4  18 
4  19 
4  18 
4  15 
4  10 
4  0 
4  0 
3  54 


TABLE  III. 


SOUTH    PECLMATION. 

NORTH  DKCLMATIO.V. 

Days  froi 
greatest 
tion. 

Low  water. 

High  water. 

Low  water. 

Low  water,    ;    High  water. 

1 
i 

Low  water. 

<a    ^    d 

1. 

7 
6 
5 
4 
3 
2 
1 
0 
1 
2 
3 
4 
5 
6 
,   7 

A.  III. 
fi  05 

6  38 

7  18 

8  13 
8  30 
8  43 
8  12 
7  40 
7  18 
6  59 
6  38 
6  24 
6  10 
5  59 
5  42 

A.  r,i. 

12  211 

13  14 

14  14 

15  .52 

16  !-.2 

17  30 
17  04 
16  28 
15  ,52 
15  14 
14  32 
14  02 
13  26 
12  .-lO 
12  26 

A.  III. 
18  05 
18  20 

18  40 

19  23 

20  00 
20  31 
20  36 
20  32 
20  18 
19  59 
19  38 
19  22 
19  00 
18  35 
18  28 

A.  m. 
5  39 
5  06 
4  3« 
3  31 
3  08 
3  01 

3  31 

4  04 
4  36 

4  45 

5  00 
5  20 
5  34 

5  45 

6  03 

A.  m. 

12  26 

11  38 

10  .38 

9  00 

8  00 

7  22 

7  48 

8  24 

9  00 
9  38 

10  20 

10  .50 

11  26 

12  02 
12  26 

A.  m. 

18  31 
18  16 
17  56 
17  13 
16  36 
16  05 
16  00 
16  04 
16  18 

16  37 
Ifi  58 

17  14 

17  36 

18  01 
18  08 

7 
fi 
5 
4 
3 
2 
1 
0 
1 

3 
4 

5 
fi 

1  . 

Note.— To  use  this  table  -.^itli  a  cliart  on  wliii  li  the  simiiiUnsii  avi'  referiiMl  to  mean  low  water,  subtract  2. 3  feet 
from  the  numbers  In  the  tnbles  for  Port  Townshend,  iiiiil  2.  7  lor  Scmiahmoo  and  StcUacooni. 


228 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY. 


TABLE  IV. 


TABLE  V. 


oon's 

NOllTIl 

KEcuN.vnox.- 

-t).\VS  KliOM  moon's  OKB.VTB9T 

DECLLVATION. 

«M    a 

0      g 

Boforo— 

0 

After— 

1 

7 

6 

5 

* 

3 

2 

1 

1 

8 

1 
3            4 

5 

6 

7 

Sour. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

n. 

Ft. 

0 

6.C 

6.:) 

5.9 

6.1 

6.4 

0.9 

7.2 

7.4 

7.5 

7.5 

7.5 

7.5 

7.0 

7.7 

7.9 

t 

6.7 

6.4 

6.0 

6.2 

6.5 

7.0 

7.3 

7.5 

7.0 

7.6 

7.6 

7.6 

7.7 

7.8 

8.0 

3 

0.6 

6.U 

5.9 

6.1 

6.4 

0.9 

7.9 

7.4 

7.5 

7.5 

7.5 

7.5 

7.6 

7.7 

7.9 

3 

n, ;) 

fi.O 

5.6 

.5.8 

6.1 

6.6 

0.9 

7.1 

7.3 

7.2 

7.2 

7.2 

7.3 

7.4 

7.6 

4 

n.  0 

5.7 

5.3 

5.5 

5.8 

6.3 

6.0 

6.8 

0.9 

6.9 

6.9 

6.9 

7.0 

7.1 

7.3 

5 

r,.  ft 

5.6 

5.3 

5.4 

5.7 

6.2 

0.5 

0.7 

6.8 

6.8 

6.8 

0.8 

6.9 

7.0 

7.8 

6 

n.  1 

5.H 

5.4 

5.0 

5.9 

6.4 

6.7 

6.9 

7.0 

7.0 

7.0 

7.0 

7.1 

7.8 

7.4 

T 

B.4 

6.1 

5.7 

5.!) 

P.  a 

6.7 

7.0 

7.2 

7.3 

7.3 

7.3 

7.3 

7.4 

7.5 

7.7 

8 

6.5 

6.  a 

5.8 

0.0 

0.3 

6.8 

7.1 

7.3 

7.4 

7.4 

7.4 

7.4 

7.5 

7.6 

7.8 

9 

6.5 

6.2 

5.8 

6.0 

0.3 

6.8 

7.1 

7.3 

7.4 

7.4 

7.4 

7.4 

7.5 

7.6 

7.8 

10 

6.6 

6.11 

5.9 

6.1 

0.4 

6.9 

7.2 

7.4 

7.5 

7.5 

7.5 

7.5 

7.6 

7.7 

7.9 

11 

6.6 

6.;j 

5.9 

6.1 

0.4 

0.9 

7,8 

7.4 

7.5 

7.5 

7.5 

7.5 

7.6 

7.7 

7.9 

11 

BOITII  DKCI.INATION- 

-DAYS  FIIOM  SIOON'8  GBBATEST  DECLLNATION. 

Before— 

0 

After— 

7 

6 

5 

4 

3 

8 

1 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

flour. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

n. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

it 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

0 

7.6 

7.9 

8.3 

8.1 

7.8 

7.3 

7.0 

6.8 

0.7 

0.7 

6.7 

6.7 

0.6 

6.5 

0.3 

1 

7.7 

8.0 

8.4 

8.2 

7.9 

7.4 

7.1 

6.9 

6.8 

0.8 

6.8 

0.8 

6.7 

6.0 

0.4 

2 

7.6 

7.9 

8.3 

8.1 

7.8 

7.3 

7.0 

6.8 

6.7 

0.7 

6.7 

0.7 

6.0 

6.5 

6.3 

3 

7.3 

7.6 

8.0 

7.8 

7.5 

7.0 

0.7 

6.5 

6.4 

6.4 

6.4 

0.4 

6.3 

6.2 

6.0 

4 

7.0 

7.3 

7.7 

7.5 

7.3 

0.7 

0.4 

6.2 

0.1 

6.1 

6.1 

0.1 

0.0 

5.9 

6.7 

5 

6.9 

7.8 

7.0 

7.4 

7.1 

0.0 

0.3 

6.1 

0.0 

6.0 

6.0 

0.0 

5.9 

5.8 

S.6 

6 

7.1 

7.4 

..8 

7.0 

7.3 

6.8 

0.5 

0.3 

6.2 

6.2 

0.2 

6.2 

0.1 

6.0 

5.8 

T 

7.4 

7.7 

8.1 

7.9 

7.6 

7.1 

0.8 

0.6 

6.5 

6.5 

0.5 

6.5 

6.4 

6.3 

0.1 

8 

7.5 

7.8 

8.2 

8.0 

7.7 

7.2 

0.9 

0.7 

6.6 

6.6 

0.0 

6.6 

6.5 

0.4 

0.2 

9 

7.5 

7.8 

8.2 

8.0 

7.7 

7.2 

0.9 

6.7 

6.6 

6.6 

0.6 

6.6 

6.5 

6.4 

6.3 

10 

7.6 

7.9 

8.3 

8.1 

7.8 

7.3 

7.0 

0.8 

6.7 

6.7 

0.7 

6.7 

6.0 

6.5 

6.3 

U 

7.6 

7.9 

8.3 

8.1 

7.8 

7.3 

7.0 

6.8 

6.7 

6.7 

6.7 

6.7 

0.6 

0.5 

6.3 

Note To  use  these  tables  with  a  chart  on  whicli  tlio  soiiuilings  are  reforreil  to  mean  low  water,  subtract  2. 3  fe«t 

from  the  numbers  in  the  tables  for  Port  Towushcnd,  and  8. 7  for  Semiahmoo  and  Steiiacoum. 


6 

7 

Ft. 

Ft. 

7.7 

7.9 

7.8 

ao 

7  7 

7.9 

7.4 

7.6 

7.1 

7.3 

7.U 

7.8 

7.8 

7.4 

7.5 

7.7 

7.6 

7.8 

7.6 

7.8 

7.7 

7.9 

7.7 

7.9 

6 

7 

Ft. 

Ft. 

5.5 

6.3 

i.6 

6.4 

.5 

6.3 

.8 

6.0 

.9 

5.7 

.8 

5.6 

.0 

5.8 

.3 

6.1 

i 

6.2 

4 

6.2 

5 

6.3 

5 

6.3 

COAST  PILOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY. 


229 


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COAST  VILOT  OF  WASIIINGTOy  TKIUUTOPvY. 


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CUAST  PILOT  OF  WASIIlNCiTON  TEHIJITOKY.  231 

Tli»>  pooprajiliiral  position  of  thf  tiiaiipiiliitit)u  station  of  tlio  Coast  Survey, 
upon  Point  Wilson,  is: 

Latitude 4S  08  42.7  noitli. 

Louyituile ll'l]  41  4U.  t  west. 

A.    m.     ». 

Or,  iu  time .S  lu  o0.3 

The  position  of  the  trianjruhition  station  on  tiie  extremity  of  Point  Hudson, 
computed  from  the  secondary  astronomical  station  near  tiie  town,  is: 

Latitude 48  07  00.7  nortli. 

Longitude IL'2  44  1*5.8  west. 

h.    III.      s. 

Or,  in  time 8  10  .■)7.7. 

Mafjnetic  variation  L'P  40'  east,  in  August  IsrtO,  with  a  yearly  increase  of  1'. 

From  the  above  it  will  be  .seen  that  Point  Hudson  is  about  lin.  L'.'i.v.  west  of 
Telegraph  Hill,  San  Franei.sco. 

The  town  of  Port  Townshend  has  increased  very  niui'h  since  tiie  discovery  of 
gold  on  Fraser  Kiver.  No  fresh  water  is  to  be  had.  but  vessels  ran  obtain  a  small 
supply  near  the  military  post.  Some  tiiu'  farms  lie  near  the  town,  and  vegetables 
are  plenty  at  reasonable  prices.  The  place  was  noted  for  the  rough  character  of 
Its  ''beach  combers."' 

A  military  post  has  been  established  on  the  blulf.  two  and  a  half  miles  south 
by  Avest  from  the  town,  and  on  a  site  which  commands  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
views  iu  these  waters,  having  the  bluft"  and  varied  shores  of  the  bay  on  either 
baud;  Admiralty  Head,  six  miles  distant ;  in  the  middle  grouiul  several  distant, 
wooded  ridges,  and  in  the  back  ground  the  snow-covered.  doul)le  summit  of 
Mount  Baker,  ten  thousand  nine  hundred  feet  in  height,  with  the  uioutli  of  the 
crater  distinctly  visible  between  the  peaks,  niul  at  times  emitting  vast  volumes  of 
smoke.  The  elevation  of  the  'i'le  of  perpetiuil  snow  upon  this  mountain  is  three 
thousaiul  one  hundred  and  forty-live  feet.     Humboldt  is  wrong  in  his  description. 

On  the  east  side  of  the  bay,  abreast  of  the  town,  lies  a  long  sand  s\n\,  nearly 
closing  the  north  entrance  to  Kilisut  Harbor,  which  runs  parallel  to  the  inlet,  and 
is  separated  by  an  is^ind  a  mile  wide  and  six  miles  long.  At  high  tide  this  har- 
bor communicates,  by  a  crooked  boat  channel,  with  Oak  Cove,  at  the  south  end. 

At  the  head  of  Port  Townshend  is  a  narrow  channel  opening  into  a  large  flat, 
bounded  by  a  low,  sandy  beach,  separating  it  from  Oak  Co\e.  Tlie  Indians  fre- 
quently use  this  as  a  portage. 

The  shores  are  generally  blufl's,  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  high,  atid 
covered  with  wood,  except  behind  the  town.  Ijctween  the  town  and  Fort  Towns- 
hend are  two  low  pieces  of  grass  and  sand  beach,  backed  l>y  marsh  and  ponds. 
The  flvj-fathom  curve  extends  but  a  t'ew  hundred  yards  from  any  part  of  tiio 
shores.  A  small  patch  of  keli*  lies  otV  the  southern  point  of  Prairie  Ulufl",  and 
another  off  the  north  face  of  Marrowstone  P>lnff. 


232  COAST  PILOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TEUUITOKY. 

Port  Towtislicnd  was  8iirvcyo»l  and  first  iiindi*  known  in  1792,  by  Vancouver, 
wlio  (,'avo  it  tiic  pr«'.s('iit  name,  b.v  wiiicii  it  is  hIwuns  Unown. 

A  chart  of  it  was  piihlisliod  by  tlio  Coast  Survey  in  lsr>S. 

MarrowHtone  Point  is  a  low  Bandy  point  strt't«'liiiitj  three  hundred  yards  east- 
ward from  the  base  of  tho  blutV,  and  t'oriuin};  an  indentation  on  its  southern  face, 
where  anchorage  maybe  had  in  twelve  fathoms,  with  a  current  or  eddy  invariably 
runnintj  ebb.  Small  craft  comiuK  out  «»f  the  inlet  with  a  head  wind  can  easily 
tak»3  advantage  of  this  for  two  or  three  miles  above  the  point. 

It  received  its  present  name  from  Vancouver  iu  1792. 

ADMIRALTY   HEAD. 

Directly  opposite  the  entranc^e  to  Port  Townshend  is  Admiralty  Head,  or 
Red  lUuft',  a  peri)endicular  clilV  eighty  feet  high,  falling  on  the  eastern  side  to  a  low, 
pebbly  shore,  which  runs  two  miles  to  the  east-northeast,  and  strikes  the  high 
clifl's  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  inlet.  Behind  this  beach  is  a  large  lagoon,  and 
off  it  is  Admiralty  IJay,  with  hard,  sandy  bottom,  in  irregular  ridges,  and  a  depth 
of  tifteen  to  twenty-live  fathoms  of  water.  A  strong  ciurent  always  makes  out  of 
the  bay,  and  it  is  exposed  to  the  full  sweep  of  southeasters.  The  (uirrent  is  so 
strong  that  a  vessel  rides  to  it,  and  consequently  lies  iu  the  trough  of  the  sea. 

J-IGHTUOVSE  ON  ADMIRALXy  HEAD. 

The  structure  consists  of  a  keeper's  dwelling,  Avith  a  tower  rising  through  the 
roof  at  one  end ;  both  are  painted  white,  and  the  irou  lantern  surmoun  iig  1;ho 
tower  is  painted  red.  The  height  of  the  tower  from  the  base  to  the  focal  plane  is 
forty-one  feet,  and  the  elevation  of  the  focal  plane  above  the  mean  level  of  the 
inlet  is  one  hundred  and  nineteen  feet. 

The  illiuninating  apparatus  is  of  the  fourth  order  of  the  system  of  Fresnel, 
and  shoM'S  vl  fixed  white  light.  It  was  first  exhibited  January  20,  18GI,  and  shows 
from  sunset  to  sunrise.  Under  a  favorable  state  of  the  atmosphere  it  should  be 
seen — 

From  a  height  of  10  feet,  at  a  distance  of  16.1  miles. 
From  a  height  of  20  feet,  at  a  distance  of  17.6  miles. 

Its  geographical  position,  as  determiued  by  the  Coast  Survey,  is : 

O  '  (' 

Latitude 48  09  21.6  north. 

Longitude 122  40  08.0  west. 

h.  m.      a. 
Or,  in  time 8  10  40.5. 

The  magnetic  variation  was  21°  40'  in  August  1850,  and  the  present  yearly 
increase  is  1'. 

It  illuminates  an  arc  of  270^  of  the  horizon,  and  commands  Admiralty  Inlet 
and  the  approaches.  It  sees  New  Dungeness  light,  but  Bluut's  Island  light  is 
hidden  by  Point  Partridge. 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASIIINCJTON  TKIMJITOUY. 


li.i. 


] 


rnncoHvcr, 


jinls  oast- 

tluTii  face, 

invariably 

can  easily 


I  Head,  or 
le  to  a  low, 
s  tiu>  liigh 
i<;ooii,  antl 
rid  a  depth 
[ikcs  out  of 
•r<Mit  is  80 
he  sea. 


iroufrh  the 
intiiig  tho 
al  plane  is 
evel  of  the 

)f  Frcsnel, 
[lud  shows 
should  be 


.6  north. 
.0  west. 


ent  yearly 

ralty  Inlet 
nd  li<>'ht  is 


From   Point  Wilson  it   licars  northeast  l»y  east,  disinnt   tliree  mid  a  (iiiii'h'. 
miles. 

From  Marrowstone  Point  north  by  west  one-t|iiart«'r  west,  distant  tiiree  and 
a  ({uaiter  miles. 

From  Xew  i3uu;iencss  li;{ht  east  l»y  north  half  north,  distant  seventeen  and 
two-thirds  miles. 

From  Point  Partrid;,'e  southeast  by  east  three-ei;(hths  east,  tlistant  live  and 
two- thirds  niih's. 

Admiralty  Head  was  named  Red  JJIiilV  by  the  United  States  lOxploriii;^  F\pe- 
dition  in  1S41,  but  it  has  now  no  eolor  to  snjjt|;est  the  apiiellation.  iioth  names 
ure  used  on  the  Paeitie  eoast. 

Starting:  from  abreast  ^larrowstone  Point  the  mid  channel  course  u|i  Ad- 
nuralty  Inlet  runs  southeast  by  sontli  one  tiiird  south  for  seven  miles.  Tin-  siiores 
on  either  liand  are  bluffs  of  api)arently  uniform  hei;;lit,  covered  witli  trees.  About 
live  miles  on  this  course  is  passed,  on  the  eastein  slnne,  a  low  point,  with  one  or 
two  clumps  of  trees  and  bushes,  to  which  has  been  ^^iven  the  name  Jbish  Point.* 
On  the  western  shore  is  a  rounding'  blutf  point,  one  mile  north  of  the  point  whieli 
forms  the  northeast  jiart  of  Oak  Hay.  Olf  tiiis  i»oint  is  piod  anchoraj;*'  in 
twelve  or  fifteen  fatlntn.s.  The  peculiar  ;;('(»lojiical  formations  found  in  the  vicinity 
sufiS'ested  the  \'sii.'ii:i.'. ion  Noduh'  Point,*  which  it  now  liears.  The  hij;h.  bold 
headland,  several  miles  directly  ahead,  is  Fonlweather  P»lulf,t  and  that  to  the  east- 
southeast  destitute  of  trees,  except  (»ne  large  cinmp,  which  marks  it  conspici'ously 
from  this  direction,  is  Double  IJliitV.*  The  deep  indentation  between  it  and  P.ush 
Point,  with  low  land  in  the  rear,  is  Mutiny  Hay,*  in  the  northern  part  of  which 
exists  a  nari'ow  bank  of  eleven  fathoms,  affordiu};'  an  excellent  fishing  jiionnd. 
At  the  einl  of  the  course.  Oak  liayf  opens  to  the  westward,  and  stretches  toward 
the  waters  of  Port  Townshend.  It  has  bluff  shores  nearly  all  around  it,  those  on 
the  southwest  face  beiu;^' limestone;  Init  Jhisalt  Point, §  at  the  south,  derives  its 
name  from  its  };eolo}>ical  structure.  The  depth  of  water  is  five  to  fifteen  fathoms, 
except  north-northwest  of  Hasalt  Point,  where  it  reaches  twenty-five  and  thirty 
fathoms.  The  length  of  the  bay  is  three  miles,  and  its  averaj^e  width  about  aio 
and  a  half  miles.  In  beatinjf  out  of  the  inlet,  with  a  favorable  current,  vessels 
must  not  attempt  to  work  to  this  bay  for  the  sake  (jf  a  lonu'  fiu;k. 

Vancouver  named  it  Oak  Cove,  his  people  having  reported  tiiat  oak  trees 
stood  upon  its  shores.  We  have  traversed  the  greater  part  of  the  shores  but 
found  none. 

The  opening  west  of  Fonlweather  Bluft'  is  Hood's  Canal.  Vessels  bound  into 
it  keep  close  to  the  western  shore  of  the  bluff,  and  pass  two  low  points  lying  near 
together.    The  water  oti'  them  is  deep.     Off  the  north  face  of  Fonlweather,  for 


30* 


*  XiiiiumI  by  tlie  United  States  Coast  Survey  in  IKJf). 

tXaiiH'd  liy  Vancouver  in  \1\yi.     The  Indian  nanx!  for  FoulweatUer  is  I'ittli-pol. 
X  Nanu'd  by  Vancouver  in  I79'i. 

*  Named  by  tlie  United  States  Const  Survey  iu  iHoti 


234 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WAPITIXGTOX  TERIUTORY. 


noavly  a  iiiilo,  loss  than  fiftcoii  fathoms  may  be  toiiiid.  Kolp  exists  undor  tlio  fare 
oi'  the  bhiff,  and  vessels  may  pass  aronnd  it  in  six  and  seven  fatiionis.  The  b(,t- 
tom,  ahtn}"'  the  edji<>  of  the  kelp,  is  i-oeky.  On  the  west  side  of  the  entrance  to 
Ilood's  Canal  is  Port  Ludlow,  whieh  will  l)e  desiuibed  hereafter. 

The  next  or  third  eourse  up  the  inlet  is  east-southeast  for  ten  niiies,  i)assin{;, 
on  the  eastward,  Double  Bluff,  whieh  stretches  northeast  for  a  mile,  and  rises 
three  hundred  or  four  hundred  reet  in  hei<;ht,  having  its  top  covered  with  wood. 
The  blulf  running'  also  to  the  ninthward  forms  Useless  iJay.*  This  bay  has  deep 
water  over  the  greater  portion  of  it,  with  a  larfj;e  shallow  bay  called  Deer  Laj^ooUjt 
at  its  head.  The  high  bluff  forming  the  southern  point  of  Useless  Bay  is  Satchet 
Ilead.t  A  similar  bluft'  lies  t..o  miles  east  by  south  of  it.  These  form  the  south- 
ern extremity  of  Whidbey  Island,  in  latitude  47°  oi'  north,  and  are  the  torning 
points  into  Possession  Sound. 

The  two  heads  are  about  three  hundred  feet  high,  coveied  Avith  wood,  and 
separated  by  a  depression,  which  is  in  part  overflowed  at  high  tide,  and  then  pre- 
sents the  appearance  of  a  small  bay.  Fn)m  the  eastern  head  round  the  western, 
and  a  mile  toward  Useless  Bay,  the  low-w.iter  'ine  nuikes  out  half  a  mile,  the  shore 
being  bare,  where  some  recent  maps  have  deep  water.  For  nearly  a  mile  st)uth  of 
both  heads  a  depth  of  eight  and  ten  fatlioms,  and  smooth,  sandy  bottom  can  be 
found.  We  found,  when  anclKued  for  several  days  off  the  eastern  head,  a  strong 
under-currenr  ru.iuing  into  Possession  Sound,  and  an  upper  current  setting  to  the 
Avestward  at  all  tides.  Vancouver  makes  mention  of  the  shoal,  and  states  that 
beating  iuto  the  inlet  he  stood  on  the  bank  until  he  got  iive  fathoms,  but  want  of 
time  pi-ecluded  his  examining  it. 

On  the  western  side  of  the  last  mid-channel  course  Foulweather  Bluff  Avas 
passed.  It  isperpeiulicularon  its  north-northwest  face,  and  about  two  hundreil  and 
twenty-five  feet  high,  Avith  lieaA^y  firs  upon  its  summit.  It  slopes  towards  the  east 
to  a  bluff'  forty  feet  high,  but  is  steep  on  the  side  next  to  Ilood's  Canal.  The  low 
point  four  miles  east  of  it  is  Point  Xo  Point, §  making  well  (»ut,  and  destitute  of 
trees  or  bushes.  Between  it  and  Foulweather  is  a  deep  bight,  and  the  distance 
across  the  neck  to  Ilood's  Canal  is  only  a  (pnirterof  a  mile  in  one  part,  marked  by 
the  tra(;k  of  a  recent  tormido  that  has  twisted  off  and  ujuooted  firs  of  three  and 
four  feet  diameter.  On  the  south  side  of  Point  No  Point  is  good  anchorage  in 
ten  fathoms ;  and  thence  the  western  shore  runs  nearly  straight  southeast  by  south 
for  ten  miles. 

At  the  end  of  the  last  course,  Avhich  carried  us  three  miles  beyond  Point  No 
Point,  the  inlet  expands"  to  a  wi<lth  of  seven  miles.  A  course  east-northeast  for 
three  miles  and  a  half  carries  us  to  the  entrance  of  P(»ssession  Sound,  the  lirst  six 


'Xaiiit'il  liy  the  Tnitcd  States  i;x|iliiriii^f  I'.xpfditiciii,  l-^ll. 

t  Disfiivcicil  and  naiiu'd  liy  tlic  Initcd  Slati's  Cnast  Survey,  lr.")(!. 

}  Xaiiied  liy  the  I'liited  States  Kxiiloriiig  l^xiieditiou,  IS.'l,  The  innjier  njielliiig  is  Skrtdg'-it, 
nnd  the  Indian  name  ot"  the  jioiut,  Sktudhks. 

ij  Named  by  United  States  Exploring  Exiiedition,  1641.  The  Indian  name  I'or  the  jioint  is 
Halid-skiis. 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASUI^XITON  TEKIUTOIIY. 


235 


niiles  (.■'■  v'iiich  run  north  half  west,  witli  a  width  of  two  mik's,  and  blnft'  shores. 
It  then  tnrns  to  the  northwestward  to  Port  (lardner.  The  water  is  (h'ep  in  tlio 
entrance,  and  atVords  no  aiii;hora;4'e.  The  h)w  point  on  the  eastern  slu)re,  four 
miles  after  entering,  is  Point  Klliott,*  and  the  bay  opening  to  the  northeast  receives 
the  Sinahouiis  or  Scaget  liiver. 

Tlie  next  or  fourth  mid-channel  course  ixp  the  inlet  is  south-southeast  for 
twenty-one  miles  to  Allen's  Bank,  which  lies  a  mile  off  the  north  end  of  Vashon 
Island.  Five  miles  on  this  course,  or  seven  from  Point  No  Point,  brings  us  to  an 
excellent  little  luirbor  on  the  western  side  of  the  inlet,  called  Ai»ple  Tvee  Cove,* 
having  a  low  point  ou  the  north  side,  with  a  soft  mud  fl::t  extending  several  liun- 
dred  yards  up  the  inlet.  From  five  to  twelve  fathoms  water  and  sticky  bottom 
are  found  otf  it  and  in  the  cove.  Tliere  is  no  fresh  water  in  the  vicinity,  but  very 
good  timber  may  be  ])rocured  suitable  for  l)oat  spars  and  booms.  On  the  eastern 
shore  of  the  inlet,  abreast  of  ibis  cove,  are  two  low  points,  a  mile  apart,  making 
out  from  the  blutf.  The  indentation  between  them  forms  a  good  though  small  an- 
chorage, and  the  chances  are  good  for  fresh  water  at  high  tide.  The  southern 
point  is  named  Point  Wells,*  the  nortiuu'u  Point  Edmund.*  The  inlet  is  liere 
only  three  miles  wide,  and  continues  so  to  Point  Jerterson,*  two  miles  southward 
of  Apple  Tree  Cove.  This  is  a  nu»derately  low,  straight  blutf,  with  the  ground 
rising  behind  it,  ami  covered  with  timber.  Stretching  broad  olf  its  eastern  face 
for  three-quarters  of  a  mile  we  discovered,  in  ISoii,  a  n  ine-fathom  shoal,  which 
affords  capital  auchf  age  r  vessels  when  drifting  with  light  airs  and  adverse 
currents. 


POUTS  MADISON  AND  OKCHAKD. 

Point  Jeflerson  is  the  northern  side  of  the  entrance  to  this  port,  which  runs 
three  miles  west-southwest,  with  an  average  width  of  two  miles  and  a  large  depth 
of  water,  exce])r  uiuler  Point  Jeflerson,  Avhere  anchorage  may  be  had  in  ten  and 
fifteen  fathoms,  hard  sandy  botton,  witli  patches  of  kelp  inshore. 

The  southeast  point  of  the  entrance  is  low  and  sandy,  making  out  from  high 
■wooded  ground.  One  mile  west  of  it  is  tin;  narrow  entrance  to  a  natural  canal, 
upon  which,  in  full  view,  are  situated  the  Port  Madison  sav> -mills.  At  the  sontli- 
west  part  of  the  bay  is  the  A'cry  narrow  entrance  to  Port  Orchard.  The  channel 
is  somewhat  crooked,  but  it  has  three  and  four  fathoms  water  in  it.  On  the  west- 
ern side  of  this  entrance  are  some  white  patches  of  beach,  formed  by  clam  shells. 
In  1857  an  Indian  village  was  situated  here,  and  an  Iiidian  sub-agency.  P.oth 
sides  of  the  entrance  are  blurt's.  Vessels  not  well  ac(pminted  .vith  tiu'  channel 
must  enter  under  easy  sail,  and  keep  a  lead  going  on  eacii  side  of  the  vessel  to 
ascertain  where  the  deepest  water  lies.  After  getting  througii,  give  the  point,  (»ne 
mile  otf  ou  the  western  side,  a  berth  of  nearly  half  a  mile,  to  avoid  a  shoal  which 
makes  out  east  from  it.  Thence  it  is  i>lain  sailing  in  tifteeu  to  twenty-five  fathoms 
of  water.     xVfter  passing  the  lirst  point,  an  arm  0!)ens  to  the  northwest,  and  niiny 


Named  liy  Uuitfd  .States  Exploring  Expedition,  1^11. 


Wf^ 


l\    >i 


236 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY. 


,|: 


vcssds  load  there  with  spars.  Ton  miles  up  the  southern  channel  is  an  arm  five 
miles  long,  stretching  to  the  west-northwest.  The  depth  of  water  ranges  from 
three  to  seventeen  fathoms,  an<l  at  the  upper  basin  are  found  beds  of  oysters.  A 
saw-mill  has  been  erected  on  this  arm.  In  coming  out  of  Port  Orchard  vessels 
should  not  trust  the  southern  entrance,  but  leave  as  they  entered.  See  remarks 
under  heading,  "Restoration  Point." 

Port  Orchard  was  examined  and  named  by  Vancouver  in  1702. 

Tort  Ma(lis(m  was  nanu'd  by  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition  in  18-41. 
The  Indiiin  nanu?  is  Noo-soh'-kum. 

BainhruUje  IslaiHl  lies  between  Port  Orchard,  Port  Madisou,  and  Admiralty 
Inlet.  It  is  eight  or  nine  miles  long  by  two  and  a  half  in  breadth,  and  its  general 
direction  is  southeast  by  south.  A  few  loggers'  huts  stand  on  the  western  side, 
and  the  Madison  saw-mill  at  the  north  end.  On  the  southeast  i)art  it  is  indented 
by  two  small  harbors.  It  was  named  by  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition 
in  1811. 

SI-BATTLE  AND   DUWAMISH  BAY. 

Abreast  of  Port  Madison  the  eastern  shore  of  the  iidet  retreats  and  there 
receives  several  small  streams  of  water,  but  it  gradually  makes  out  into  a  very 
long,  low  sand  point,  called  West  Point,*  which  forms  the  extreme  northwest  part 
of  the  entrance  to  Duwamish  Bay.  The  l>ay  runs  east  by  south  six  and  a  half 
miles  and  hiis  a  width  of  two  miles.  To  the  south  pf>int,  called  Battery  Point,t 
which  is  low  and  l)arc,  with  a  curiously  shaped  mouiul  rising  sharply  behind  it, 
the  ccmrse  is  about  southeast  by  south,  :  id  distance  four  and  a  half  miles. 
Under  West  Point  there  is  anchorage  in  ten  to  lifteen  fathoms  after  getting 
towai'ds  the  bluff;  but  on  the  north  side  of  the  point  the  water  is  very  deep. 
Thi'ough  the  center  of  the  bay  the  depth  ranges  from  eighty-eight  to  forty 
iiithoms.  On  the  north  side  of  Battery  Point  a  vessel  iinchoring  in  twenty 
fathoms  cannot  have  a  greater  scope  of  chain  than  thirty-live  fathoms  without 
being  too  close  to  the  shore.  Wlicn  we  anchored  there  in  thirteen  fathoms  and 
veered  to  twenty-five  fathoms  of  chain  the  vessel's  st(M'n  was  in  two  and  a  half 
fathoms.  The  beach  is  smooth  and  very  regular,  being  com])osed  of  sand  and 
gravel.  On  this  side  of  Battery  Point  is  the  deserted  town  of  Alki,  (the  Indian 
phrase  for  "by  and  by.")  The  towri  has  had  several  names,  but  there  is  nothing 
about  it  to  command  trade. 

The  blurt'  head  within  the  bay,  two  miles  north-ncn-theast  of  Battery  Point,  is 
Duwamish  Ilead.f  It  is  steej),  abtmt  one  bundled  and  fifty  feet  high,  covered  with 
timber,  and  the  beach  at  low  water  stretches  ont  over  a  <piarter  of  a  mile  north- 

*  Naiuod  by  the  United  Stiites  Exploring  Expi'ditiou,  1841. 

t  Nanifd  by  tlie  United  States  Count  Survey,  isr)(j.  Tlic  Englisli  Admiralty  Chart  No.  1911, 
with  eorrectioiiH  to  IHCm,  calls  liiis  Kobeits'  Point,  although  there  is  the  same  name  at  themoutli  of 
Frazer  h'iver.     The  Indian  name  is  .Me-kwah-mnoks. 

t  Named  by  the  United  States  Coast  Survey,  18.50. 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASIIINdTON  TEIMUTOKY. 


northwest  from  it.     The  head  of  the  bay  receives  the  Dmvainish  River,  and  for 
one  or  two  miles  is  an  extensive  tiat,  hare  at  h)w  water. 

Tlie  town  of  Seattk>  is  on  a  small  point  at  tlie  northeast  part  of  the  baj-,  a 
little  over  li\-e  miles  inside  of  West  Point.     It  consists  of  a  few  honses  and  stores 
n  chnrch  and  a  small  saw-mill ;  and  a  nnmber  of  nni\ersity  bnildings  are  to  bo 
erected,  (18G2.)    It  has  but  little  trade. 

The  usual  anch()ra-«e  is  directly  off  the  wharf  in  k'u  to  fifteen  fathoms  water, 
■with  the  large  white  house  on  the  extreme  i)()int  bearing  about  east  or  east  by 
south,  and  at  a  distance  from  the  beach  of  about  tive  hundred  yards.  This 
position  will  eiutble  a  vessel  to  work  out  well  by  making  the  lirst  tack  to  the 
southward,  towards  the  flat.  If  it  be  high  water,  tliis  Hat  cannot  be  distin- 
guished, and  th((  h'ad  mu.st  be  kept  going.  When  a  depth  of  IHteen  fathoms  is 
struck,  go  about,  for  it  shoals  to  three  fathoms  very  suddenly,  and  keeping  on, 
Avould  soon  bring  up  a  vessel  on  the  flat.  If  the  current  be  ebb,  vessels  bound  out 
should  stand  well  in  to  the  inlet;  and  if  hound  up,  should  work  close  under  ami 
around  Duwamish  Head,  to  Battery  Point.  If  tlie  current  be  flood,  vessels  bound 
out  should  work  under  the  north  shore,  ami  close  to  AVest  Poi'.t ;  if  bound  u]., 
sliould  work  under  the  north  shore,  about  three  and  a  half  miles  to  Jlagnolia 
Bluti,  beyond  a  low  marshy  indentation  iu  the  shore,  or  untd  they  can  fetch  well 
clear  of  Battery  Point.  From  Seattle  tiuMc  is  telegrai>hic  communication  with 
San  Francisco,  Portland,  Olympia,  Steilacoom,  Belliiigham  Bay,  and  Victoria. 

Tiiere  is  some  good  agricultural  prairie  land  on  the  Duwamish  River.  Some 
distance  up,  it  is  connected  with  a  series  of  lakes  that  stretc-h  to  the  west-north- 
west and  by  a  small  stream  reach  the  inlet  Just  mu'thofWest  Point.  Amon<'- 
these  lakes  good  coal  is  reported.  Lake  A\'a.sliiiigton  is  reported  to  be  twenty-five 
miles  long,  and  two  or  three  miles  wide,  with  islanils  iu  it.  It  is  t»ut  a  lew  miles  in 
a  direct  line  east  of  Seattle. 

The  town  of  Seattle  was  attacked  by  a  small  body  of  Indians,  in  1S.j5,  buc 
the  assault  was  repelled  by  the  United  States  steamer  .Massatihusetts. 

The  bay  was  called  Elliott's  Bay  by  the  IJuite.l  States  Exploring  Exi)edition 
in  1841,  but  the  present  mune  is  that  by  which  it  is  invariably  known,  and  was 
adopted  from  the  name  of  the  tribe  of  Indians  iniiabiting  its  shores.  Tlie  nanu'.  of 
the  town  is  derived  from  that  of  the  chief,  Se-at-tlh. 

The  Coast  Survey  report  for  I8.-)I  was  accompanied  by  a  reconnaissance 
sketch  of  Duwamish  Bay  and  Seattle  ilarbor. 

KESTOUATION   POINT. 

From  the  southeast  point  of  Port  Madison  to  this  point,  the  shore  is  blulV  and 
somewhat  irregular,  and  is  indentecl,  first  by  Eagle  Harbor,*  having  a  hnig 
pebbly  spit  making  out  three  or  four  bundled  yards  southeast  from  its  north 
point;  and  next,  at  Point  Restorati.m,  by  Blakely  Ilarlxu.*  having  off  its  entiance 
a  large  rock,  tifteeii  feet  high,  with  dee))  water  all  round  it.     The  rock  bears 


•Named  by  the  Uuited  States  Exiiloring  Expclitioii,  Ifiil. 


■Hill 


■i\ 


238  COAST  PILOT  OF  WASUIXGTON  TEKlflTOllY. 

nearly  nortli-nortlnvost,  tlirec-qiiarters  of  a  mile  from  the  point,  and  tlio  bottom 
between  is  irregular,  the  depth  ranging  from  twenty  to  forty  fathoms.  Blakely 
Harbor  is  only  a  <iuarter  of  a  mile  wide,  and  three-<inartt!rs  long,  with  eighteen 
fathoms  stieky  bottom  at  its  month,  and  shoaling  gradually  inside,  but  most  on 
the  south  side.  A  hydrographic  sketch  of  the  harbor  is  given  in  the  Coast  Sur- 
Acy  Iteport  for  1850. 

Eagle  Harbor  is  larger  and  more  coiuTnodious  than  Blakely.  AVc  discovered 
the  shoal  off  its  north  i>oint  in  ISoO. 

l\'estoration  Point  is  in  some  respects  very  jieculiar;  no  other  in  these  waters, 
exeejit  Battery  Point,  presenting  the  same  formation.  For  three  hundred  yards 
it  is  flat,  about  ten  feet  above  high  water,  and  has  a  foot  depth  of  soil  covered 
with  grass,  over  a  limestone  rock,  upheaved  nearly  on  edge,  the  direction  of  the 
strata  pointing  toward  Mattery  Point,  or  a  little  south  of  it.  Inshore  it  rises 
up  sharply  about  one  hundred  feet,  its  sides  covered  with  grass,  and  the  summit 
Avitli  fir  trees.  Around  the  whole  southeast  face  of  the  point  these  peculiarities 
exist.  On  the  upper  levels  of  the  high  laud  adjacent  our  party  found  small 
lakes  of  water. 

From  the  extremity  of  the  point  a  ledge,  bare  at  low  tides,  makes  out  three 
Inuulred  yards,  but  the  de])th  is  six  fathoms  one  humlred  yards  ott'  its  extremity, 
and  sixteen  fathoms  at  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  On  the  tail  of  this  ledge  the  United 
States  sloojt  of  war  Decatur  struck  in  18.j5.  South-southeast  of  the  i)oint,  anchor- 
age may  be  had  in  tifteeu  fathoms,  sticky  bottom,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  distant ;  or, 
as  a  rule  for  linding  anchorage,  bring  the  rock  north  of  it  to  range  just  over  and 
inside  of  the  iioint.     Kelp  exists  along  the  .southern  face. 

The  geographical  ])osition  of  the  triangulation  station  of  the  Coast  Survey 
ui)ou  this  point  is: 

Q  I  It 

Latitude 47  35  05.8  north. 

Longitude 121*  28  15.2  west. 

/(.     hi.      fl. 

Or,  in  time 8  00  .5;?.0. 

From  this  point  Battery  Point  bears  east  by  north  half  uorth,  distant  two 
and  a  half  miles. 

7V(/<'.s'. — The  approximate  corrected  establishment  is  4/(.  4jh.,  and  the  approxi- 
mate nu'an  rise  and  fall  of  tides  7.4  feet. 

A'anconver  anchored  under  this  \m\\\\  in  1702;  found  large  iuuid)ers  of 
Indians  located  near,  and  lirst  called  it  Village  Point,  but  changed  it  to  its 
present  name  in  commemoration  of  the  day  on  which  he  anchored.  From  this 
place  his  boats  explored  all  the  waters  adjacent. 

South  of  Restoration  the  inlet  opens  to  tiie  westward  for  a  con]»le  of  miles 
into  a  bay,  in  which  is  situated  an  island  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  extent, 
called   Blake  Islaiul.*     From  the   northwest   part   t»f  the   bay  leads   a   narrow, 

• 

*  Naimil  by  the  United  States  Exi)loiinj;  Expedition,  1841. 


le  bottom 
,  Blakdy 
I  eighteen 
t  most  ou 
!oast  Sur- 

iliseovered 

'se  waters, 
Ired  yards 
il  covered 
ion  of  tlie 
•e  it  rises 
lie  summit 
'culiarities 
mild  small 

out  three 
extremity, 
he  United 
lit,  anehor- 
istaiit ;  or, 
5t  over  and 

ast  Survey 

i.S  uortli. 
).2  west. 

5.0. 
listant  two 

lie  approxi- 

lumbers  of 

d  it  to  its 

From  this 

do  of  miles 
'  in  extent, 
a   narrow. 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASHINGTOX  TERRITOKY.  239 

crooked  pass,  three  miles  lonpr,  to  the  southern  part  of  Port  Orchard,  which 
spreads  out  into  several  arms.  The  jiass  is  obstructed  by  rocks,  and  is  dillicult 
of  navigation.  The  winds  are  variable,  light,  and  uncertain  at  its  narrowest  part, 
where  it  makes  a  sharp  turn,  and  is  only  a  couple  of  hundred  yards  wide,  witii  a 
rushing,  swirling  current.  The  channel  generally  used,  although  narrower  than 
the  one  just  mentioned,  is  that  leading  into  Port  IMadison. 

The  last  course  reached  Allen  Bank,*  ofit'  the  north  end  of  Vaslion  Island, 
with  Blake  Island  to  the  westward  and  three-quarters  of  a  mile  distant.  This 
bank  is  nearly  a  mile  in  extent,  and  has  as  little  as  ten  fathoms  uixm  it,  witii  a 
variable  bottom,  in  some  places  mud  ind  in  others  hard  sand.  At  our  anchorage 
upon  it  in  eleven  fathoms,  the  south  end  of  Blake  Island  bore  Avest  three-quar- 
ters north,  and  tlie  northwest  point  of  Yaslion  Island  south  half  east.  Between  the 
anchorage  and  Blake  Island  the  water  regularly  deepens  to  about  eighteen  fath- 
oms, in  soft  mud.  This  anchorage  has  proved  of  great  service  to  vessels  losing 
the  wind  and  having  adverse  currents.  In  some  recent  maps,  twenty-five  to 
thirty  fathoms  are  marked  in  the  position  of  this  shoal.  The  eastern  point  of 
Blake  Island  is  low  and  pebbly,  and  called  by  the  natives  Tatugli.  Under  it  is 
anchorage  in  seventeen  and  eighteen  fathoms,  soft  miitl.  Tiie  n(U'theast  point  of 
Vashon  Island  is  Dolphin  Point, t  the  northwest  point  Point  Vashon  :t  the  point 
abreast  of  it  is  Point  Southwoitli,|  and  the  mile-wide  channel  commencing 
between  the  last  two  points  is  Colvos  Passage,|  running  west  of  Vaslion  Island. 

The  extent  of  shore-line,  from  the  entrance  of  Admiralty  Inlet  to  the  north 
end  of  Vashon  Island,  is  two  hundred  and  forty-one  miles. 

The  main  body  of  the  inlet  continues  about  southeast  for  eight  miles,  and 
then  south-southwest  eight  miles  further,  M-ith  an  average  width  of  two  miles. 
In  this  stretch  the  currents  are  moderately  strong,  the  chances  for  anchoring  few, 
and  it  is  sometimes  calm,  while  a  fine  breeze  is  blowing  through  t'olvos  Passage. 

lintiT  Poiiif^  lies  on  the  east  side  of  the  inlet,  northeast  from  Dolphin  Point. 
The  round-topped  point  having  two  or  three  lone  fir  trees  upon  it,  and  situated  on 
the  same  side  of  the  inlet,  four  miles  south  of  Brace  Point,  is  called  Point  Piil- 
ley.f     The  water  is  very  deep  close  to  it  on  either  side. 

The  geograi)Iiical  i)osition  of  the  triangiilation  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  on 
the  summit  of  the  mound  at  Point  Pulley  is: 

o        //  / 

I^atitude 47  27  07.,']  north. 

Longitude 12L'  2'J  21  .."i  Avest. 

h.      III.      n. 

Or,  in  time 8  ()<)  2'.>.4 

There  is  a  small  bight  north  of  Brace  Point,  and  between  it  and  anotiier  low 
point  called  Fauntleroy  Cove,t  having  good  anchorage  in  ten  and  twelve  fathoms, 

*  DiwoviTi'il  and  naiiit'il  by  the  Uliited  Stiiti'8  Coast  Survey  in  leii)?. 

tXanicd  liy  tlio  tTnitcil  .States  Coast  Siiivcv.  1S.')7. 

t  Nanit'd  by  the  I'liitt'd  States  Kxi)loiinij;  ICxiieditiou,  1841. 

J  Named  liy  (lie  Ignited  States  Coast  Snrvf'y  in  18,')(). 


!-!'(l 


240 


COAST  PILOT  OP  AVASITINGTON  TEREITOEY. 


and  fresh  water  is  easily  obtained  in  the  vicinity.  Between  lirace  Point  and 
Point  Pnlly,  two  or  three  small  streams  of  water  empty,  and  another  stream 
comes  from  tiic  valley  a  mile  east  of  the  high  bluff  at  Tiilly.  Off  this  valley  a 
Hat  makes  out,  with  deep  water  at  its  edge. 

Under  Dolphin  Point  there  is  very  deep  water;  but  off  the  north  end  of 
the  island,  near  this  point,  we  tbund  anchorage  in  fourteen  fatiioms,  hard  bottom. 

ColvoH  rusmujc  is  the  usual,  we  may  say  the  invariably  used,  ship  cluinnel 
towards  Puget  Sound.  It  is  about  a  mJe  wide,  with  higli  blutf  shores,  varied  by 
numerous  small,  low  sand  points  making  out  from  the  face  of  the  bluff,  and  having 
deep  water  off  them.  Tlu>  i»assage  is  eleven  miles  long  to  the  south  end  of 
Vashon  Island,  which  is  called  Dalco  Point,*  and  it  runs  with  a  nearly  slraight 
c<mrse  south  l)y  east.  A  mile  and  a  half  inside  of  Point  Vashon  there  is  a  small 
curve  in  the  shore  line  called  Fern  Cove,t  with  excellent  andiorage  in  live  and 
ten  fathoms.  Abreast  of  Dalco  Point  on  the  western  shore  there  is  a  small  harbor, 
with  a  narrow  and  shoal  entrance,  called  CJig  Uarbor.*  Looking  out  of  the  pas- 
sage to  the  north  Mount  Baker  shows  distinctly  in  clear  weather. 

COMMENCEMENT  BAY. 

AVhen  abreast  of  Dalco  Point,  this  bay,  at  the  termination  of  Admiralty 
Inlet,  opens  to  the  east-southeast,  and  over  its  low  background  shows  the  high 
snow-covered  peak  of  Mount  Painier.  The  general  direction  of  the  bay  is  east  by 
south  half  south,  Avith  a  length  of  three  or  four  miles,  a  width  of  two  miles, 
and  a  great  depth  of  water  up  t«>  tiie  line  of  the  extensive  tlat  at  its  head,  which 
is  backed  by  nuiish.  There  are  no  settlements  upon  it,  but  in  1857  we  found  some 
deserted  lishing  stations. 

It  was  named  in  i7!>2,  by  Vancouver,  who  thonght  this  the  entrance  to  some 
large  arm  of  the  inlet,  on  account  of  the  low  country  beyond. 

The  Indian  mime  for  this  bay  is  Puyallu]). 

Vanhon  Lshind,  lying  between  the  soutLern  extremity  of  the  iidet  and  Colvos 
Passage,  is  eleven  and  one-half  miles  long,  with  an  average  Avidth  of  two  and  one- 
half  miles.  Halfway  down  on  its  eastern  side  lies  a  curiously-shaped  i)eninsula, 
formed  by  a  narrow,  low,  sandy  neck  of  land,  which  makes  out  into  liu'  inlet,  and 
then  runs  towards  the  sontli  point  of  the  islaiul.  The  space  between  this  ]H'nin- 
sula  and  the  island  is  an  excellent  harbor  four  or  live  miles  long,  and  three-quar- 
ters of  a  mile  wide,  with  five  to  ten  fathoms  water  in  it.  Tiie  southeast  face  of 
the  peninsula  is  high  and  steep,  and  bordered  by  water  from  Ibrty  to  fifty  fath- 
oms deej).  The  English  Admiralty  chart  No.  11)11  notes  this  peninsula  as  an 
island  named  JNIaury  Island,  with  nine  feet  water  where  it  is  nearest  Vashon. 

The  island  is  liigh,  with  steei>  shores,  covered  with  wood  and  nnd('rj,,()wth. 
Its  surface  is  marshy  in  many  i)arts  tliat  are  quite  elevat<'d.  Tin'  present  name 
Avas  given  by  Vancouver,  in  1792.     The  harbor  formed  by  it  and  the  peninsula 

*  Niimed  by  the  I'liitcd  .States  Kxiilorinir  Ex])<>(litioii,  1841. 
t  Xiiiued  by  the  United  States  Coiwt  .Survey,  1857. 


WL 


>  Point  and 
tlu'i-  stream 
liis  valley  a 

lortU  oiul  of 
avd  bottom. 
;hi]>  channel 
s,  varied  by 
f,  and  liavinj^- 
^outli  end  of 
luly  snaijtht 
le  is  a  small 
e  in  live  and 
^mall  harbor, 
t  of  the  pas- 


)f  Admiralty 
)ws  tlie  high 
jay  is  east  by 
)f  two  miles, 
head,  wiiich 
c  fonnd  some 

lice  to  some 


and  Colvos 

wo  and  one- 

'd  i)eniiisnla, 

le  inlet,  and 

this  ])enin- 

tlnee  (jnar- 
east  face  of 
i>  fifty    fath- 

isiilii  as  an 

Vashon. 
ind('rj,,owth. 
I'esent  name 
le  peninsula 


COAST  PILOT  OF  ^VASIIl^'(iTON  TEKIUTOUY. 


241 


was  called  Quartermaster  ITarbor  by  the  I'nited  States  Exiilorins  Ivxpedition  in 
1841. 

I'OINT  DKFIAXCK  AND  TIIK  NAltlUnVS.* 

The  high,  sharp,  yellow  blulf  facing  the  south  entrance  to  Colvos  I'assage, 
is  called  Point  Jh'Jidiia;  and  between  it  ami  the  western  shore  pass  ail  the  waters 
of  Paget  Sound.  This  passage  is  called  the  Nanoics.  Its  average  width  is  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile,  and  very  uniform;  the  shores  are  high,  bold,  aiul  in  some 
places  rocky.  For  two  miles  to  the  southeast  its  course  is  a  n'gular  (Mir\ c.  The 
next  turn  is  to  the  southward,  and  at  a  distance  of  two  miles  in  that  direction  the 
waters  of  the  sound  open  ahead,  with  a  narrow  pass  between  the  main  and  I'ox 
Island  to  the  west ;  and  a  small  indentation,  backed  by  low  ground,  and  formed 
on  the  south  by  a  small  ]»eninsnla,  on  tiie  "ast.  In  this  bight  is  au'-horage  in  fif- 
teen fathoms,  with  swirling  eddies.  On  the  south  face  of  this  peninsula,  and  out- 
side of  the  kelp,  anchorage  may  also  be  had. 

UGET  SOUND. 

This  collection  of  inlets  commences  after  i)assing  "  The  Narrows,''  and  covers 
an  area  of  fourteen  miles  by  twenty-two,  with  a  general  direction  southwest 
tlireequarters  south.  Tlie  aggregate  shore-line  of  this  sound,  and  the  adjacent 
])art  of  Admiralty  Inlet,  Mith  Colvos  Passage,  to  the  north  end  of  Vaslion  Island, 
is  not  less  than  three  hundred  aiul  seventy  miles.  U])on  its  shores  are  situated 
the  settlements  of  Steilacoom,  ]Sis<pially,  Olympia,  and  Newmarket. 

It  received  its  present  name  in  17l>i!,  from  Vancouver,  in  compliment  to  Lieu- 
tenant Puget,  w  ho  explored  it. 

.STEILACOOM. 

On  the  eastern  shore  of  Puget  Sound,  nine  miles  south  of  Point  Detianee,  is 
situated  the  town  or  village  of  Steilacoom,  upon  a  rising  blutl".  It  consists  of  a 
few  houses.  Fort  Steilacoom  stands  about  a  jnile  inland,  upon  a  piece  of  gravelly 
prairie,  and  roads  lead  from  it  to  the  tow!i  and  the  creek. 

The  neighboring  country  is  only  moderately  well  adapted  to  agriculture, 
exce])t  along  the  bottoms  of  the  small  sticams. 

The  usual  anchorage  is  in  fifteen  fathoms,  hard  bottom,  and  about  four 
hundred  or  five  hundred  yards  from  the  shore.  An  island  lying  two  and 
one-ipuirter  miles  distant,  and  to  the  west  of  that  i)osition,  is  called  McNeil,  and 
between  it  and  Fox  Island,  to  the  northward,  there  is  a  i)assage  a  mile  and  a  half 
wide.  Tlie  passage  on  tiie  south  side  of  .McXeil  Island,  between  it  and  Anderson 
Island,  is  generally  known  as  the  IJalch  Passage.  It  bears  about  southwest  by 
west  from  the  anchorage,  and  is  marked  by  a  small  wooded  islet  in  it,  called 
Eagle  Island,  off  which  lies  rocky  bottom,  and  vessels  keej)  closer  to  the  north 


31* 


'Named  by  the  United  States  Kxploring  Kxiiedition  in  1841. 


ppsp 


'I   I 


OJ.O 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASH  IXC.  TON  TERHITOliY. 


slioro.     This  pnssaffo  is  the  diroi't  «'liiiiiii('l  to  01yiiii)ia,  instead  of  foUowiiip:  the 
bi'oatl  inic  to  the  soiithwanl  of  Stcihicooiii. 

The  north  end  of  the  island,  showing;'  to  the  southward,  and  ouo  uud  one-half 
miles  from  the  anehoraj^e,  is  Kitmm  Lshmtf, 

One  mile  north  of  the  anchorage  is  the  mouth  of  a  small  stream  called  the 
Steilacoom  river. 

In  coming'  to  Steilacoom,  or  bound  direct  for  Olympia,  a  patch  of  keli),  with 
foul  bottom,  and  less  than  three  fathoms  of  water  upon  it,  must  be  avoided.  It 
bears  soutli-southeast,  one  mile  from  the  south  end  of  Fox  Islaml,  and  northwest 
by  west  one  and  three-cpiarters  miles  from  Steilacoom  wharf.  The  tide  rip  upon  it 
and  abreast  of  the  town  is  very  great;  quite  sufticient,  with  a  little  wind,  toswamp 
a  small  boat.  The  shores  of  the  main  anil  the  islands  are  bold,  nearly  uniform  in 
hei^iiit,  and  covered  with  trees. 

Tt(liK.—  T\n'  corrected  establislunent  or  mean  interval  between  the  time  of 
the  moon's  transit  and  the  time  of  high  water  is  4/i.  IGw.  The  mean  rise 
and  fall  of  tides  is  !>.li  feet,  of  spring  tides,  11.1  feet,  of  neap  tides,  7.-  feet. 
The  mean  duration  of  the  flood  is  6h.  3m.,  of  the  ebb,  6h.  25hj.,  and  of  the  stand, 
2Am.  The  ditference  between  the  rise  of  the  highest  tide  and  the  fall  of  the  low- 
est tide  observed  was  1S.',\  feet.  The  greatest  difference  observed  between  the 
height  of  the  two  low  waters  of  one  day  was  12.2  feet,  and  the  greatest  differ- 
ence between  tiie  higher  high  and  lower  low  waters  of  a  day  was  7.7. 

The  tides  of  the  same  day  are  generallj'  unciiual  in  proportion  to  the  moon's 
declination.  The  times  and  heights  can  be  obtained  approxinuitely  from  the  fol- 
lowing table: 


Moon's  upper  meridian  passage. 


Mimi'a  ilpclinatinn. 


Greatest  nerlli. 

Zero 

Grnatest  south. 


High  water. 


I,ow  water. 


lutcrral.   |  Height,  i   I"t  .>al.      Height. 


Moon's  lower  nicrlilian  passage. 


High  water. 


Low  water. 


Interval.      Height.  ;   Interval. 


H.ir. 

16  0!) 

17  00 

18  ,in 


Feet. 
II.  1 
1','.  U 
IS.  6 


n.  ii. 

Feet. 

at  44 

—0.8 

iiM  i."> 

2.6 

2:1  .•)!» 

g..") 

II.  M. 

18  30 
17  (iO 
16  (><) 


Feet. 
12.6 
12.9 
11.1 


H.il. 

2;t  59 

2,1  2.-) 
23  44 


Height. 
Feet. 

2.6 
—0.8 


The  interval  is  to  be  added  to  the  time  of  the  moon's  meridian  passage,  to 
give  the  time  of  high  or  low  water.  Tiie  time  of  the  moon's  upper  meridian  pass- 
age is  given  in  the  Almanac,  and  the  time  of  its  lower  meridian  passage  is  the 
middle  between  two  successive  upper  passages.  The  heights  are  given  in  feet  and 
tenths,  and  show  the  rise  above  the  level  of  the  average  of  the  lowest  low  waters, 
to  which  level  the  soundings  on  the  chart  are  given. 

t<pnng  tides. — At  Jie  full  and  change  of  the  moon  the  high  waters  will  be  0.7 
foot  higher  tlian  the  above,  and  the  low  waters  0.9  foot  lower. 

Neap  tides. — At  the  moon's  flrst  and  last  quarters  the  high  waters  will  be  0.7 
foot  lower,  and  the  low  waters  will  not  fall  as  low  bv  0.0  foot. 


owing  the 

III  oiu'-half 

called  the 

Ivcli),  with 
oidi'd.  It 
northwest 
ip  ui)on  it 
I,  to. swamp 
unil'orm  iu 

be  time  of 
mean  rise 
's,  1:2  feet, 
the  stand, 
►f  the  low- 
jtween  the 
test  diller- 

tlie  moon's 
>ni  the  fol- 


pa89aj;p. 


val. 

Height. 

if. 

Ffet. 

-.9 

a.-i 

-."1 

a.  6 

U 

—0.8 

)assaj.;e,  to 
idian  pass- 
ige  is  the 
n  feet  and 
Lnv  waters, 

will  be  0.7 

will  be  0.7 


COA8T  PILOT  OF  ^VASIllNOTOX  TKIMMTOKY.  241) 

From  Steilacoom  there  is  telefjjraphic  «'()mmnnieati(»n  with  San  Francisco, 
rortland.  01ymi»ia,  Seattle,  Ijellin^ihani  r.ay.  and  Victoria. 

Tiic  pronnnriation  of  the  nam*'  Stcilafoom,  as  j^'ivcn  to  us  by  Fiidialis,  i.^ 
Tchil'  a'iMini.     On  the  Admiralty  maps  of  ISIT  we  find  it  ("liehikoom. 

A  reconnai.s.sance  sheet  uf  Steihicoom  iiarbor  was  published  by  the  Coast  Sur- 
vey in  JS.">(}. 

XiiKjuallif,  five  miles  south  of  Steilacoom,  and  on  tlie  sanie  side  of  the  sound, 
is,  tit  present,  a  place  of  no  trade  or  importance.  It  was  one  of  the  early  posts  of 
the  Ilud.son  Hay  C(»inpany,  and  is  still  oceupii'd  by  them.  An  extensive  mud  tlat 
exists  otf  the  mouth  of  the  wide,  marshy  valley,  but  the  depth  of  water  is  very 
great  close  to  it,  and  the  anchorage  room  very  nuu-h  contracted.  Tlie  River  Xis- 
qually  empties  here,  and  we  believe  there  are  two  small  s<uv-mills  upon  it.  The 
name  is  Indian. 

OLVMriA. 

It  would  be  almost  useless  to  attenjpt  to  describe  the  route  to  Olympia  from 
Steilacoom.  as  a  pilot  or  a  map  is  absolutely  necessary  in  making  the  jtassage. 
The  mid-channel  <'ourse  is  twcutyono  miles  in  length,  and  its  width  from  half  a 
mile  to  a  mile  and  a  half. 

Olympia  is  situ^ited  at  the  head  of  Budd  Inlet,*  which  is  six  nules  long,  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  wide,  and  runs  nearly  south.  The  shores  are  steep  and  wooded, 
and  the  head  of  the  bay  an  immense  mud  Hat,  behind  which  is  the  town.  It 
acrpiires  prospective  importance  by  being  the  capital  of  the  Territory,  but  espe- 
cially on  account  of  its  proximity  to  the  Cohunbia  Eiver  Valley  and  to  the  head- 
waters of  the  Chehalis.  There  is  a  saw-mill  at  Newmarket,  two  miles  .south  on 
the  Tumwater,  and  three  others  in  the  vicinity,  besides  one  or  two  grist-mills. 

A  depth  of  three  fathom.s  can  be  carried  on  the  west  side  of  Uudd  Inlet, 
within  one  and  a  half  mileo  of  the  wharf,  and  one  fathom  within  a  mile  on  the 
eastern  side.  Vessels  are  brought  up  to  the  wharf  at  the  highest  tides,  and  then 
rest  in  the  mud  until  ready  to  leave. 

TIDES. 

The  approximate  corrected  establishnuMit  is  5/i.  8m.,  and  the  mean  ri.so  and 
tall  of  tides  0.2  feet. 

The  greatest  difference  between  the  highest  and  lowest  tides  is  reported  about 
twenty-four  feet,  and  is  doubtless  more  than  this,  when  we  comi)are  its  position 
with  that  of  Steilacoom. 

The  approximate  geographical  position  of  the  wharf,  as  determined  by  tho 
United  States  States  Coast  Survey,  is : 

Latitude 47  03  00  north. 

Longitude 122  55  00  west. 

h.    m.     ». 
Or,  in  time S  11  -tO.O 

"Kiuued  !))•  the  Uiiitod  States  Exploring  EsiM>ilitioii  in  1'::'41. 


24-4 


COAST  PILOT  or  WASIIINC.TON  TKHKITOUY. 


Tho  oomputoil  masnctio  variation  wa3  20^  17'  oast  in  July  1850,  and  tho 
present  yearly  iiierease  1'. 

A  liy(lni};rai)liic  reconnaissance  of  IJudcl  lulet  was  published  by  the  Coast 
Survey  in  isr»(i. 

rroiu  Olynipia  there  is  telegraphic  conininnication  with  San  Francisco,  Port- 
laud,  SleilacooiM,  Seattle,  Px-Ilinj^liain  Hay,  and  Victoria. 

Sawmills  have  been  built  on  llainniersley  Inli't*  and  on  Jlendersctn  Inlet.* 

HOOD'S  CAXAL.t 

The  entrance  to  this  arm  ot"  Admiralty  Iidet  lies  between  Basalt  Point  and 
Foulweather  IMntV,  the  latter  bearing  east  three-quarters  south,  distant  three  and 
one-third  miles  tV(»m  the  fornu'r. 

The  first  mid-clmnnel  ctmrse  is  southeast  ftu'  four  miles,  pointing  directly  into 
Port  Cnmble,  at  the  entrance  to  w'.ich  the  houses  and  mill  are  plainly  visible;  and 
passing  a  high,  round,  wooded  peninsula  on  the  west  side  of  the  chainiel,  and  con- 
nected with  the  main  by  a  narrow  lu-ck  of  low  sand  beach.  This  is  fre(piently 
mistaken  for  an  island,  and  is  named  Hood's  IIead.|  lietween  this  head  and  Port 
Gamble  the  canal  changes  its  course  and  runs  in  nearly  a  straight  line  south  by 
west  forty  miles,  with  an  average  width  of  one  and  a  half  miles.  In  latitude  47° 
21'  nt)rth  it  makes  an  abrupt  turn,  ami  runs  for  twelve  or  tliirteen  miles  about 
northeast. 

PORT   LUDLOW. 


Close  to  Basalt  Point  lie  some  rocks,  with  others  about  half  a  mile  southeast, 
called  the  Colros  h'ocli.s,^  among  which  is  one  twenty-five  feet  high,  but  of  snudl 
extent.  Close  in  shore,  and  abreast  of  this,  is  a  I'ock  just  awash  at  high  tide,  but 
between  the  two  runs  a  channel  with  fifteen  fathoms  water,  having  soft,  muddy  bot- 
tom. The  bright  bluff  head,  one  and  a  quarter  miles  southeast  of  the  Colvos  liocks, 
and  about  two  miles  southwest  by  west  from  Foulweather  Bluff,  is  Tula  Poini.* 
Half  Avay  between  the  Colvos  and  this  point  is  the  usual  entrance,  over  a  sand  bar 
having  four  and  a  half  fathoms.  The  three-fathom  line  stretches  half  a  mile  south- 
east of  Colvos.  If  the  wind  and  currents  do  m)t  suit  for  this  channel,  run  inside  of 
the  Colvos,  carrying  deep  water  and  eight  fathoms,  soft,  muddy  bottom,  anywhere 
inside  of  Tala  Point,  even  past  the  saw-mill,  if  necessary.  The  general  direction  of 
the  shore  from  Basalt  Point  to  the  saw-mill  on  the  low  sand  point  Inside  is  south- 
southeast  two  and  a  luilf  miles.  Abreast  of  Tala  the  width  of  tho  bay  is  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile,  but  it  gradually  contracts  to  less  than  half  a  mile  at  tho  saw- 
mill, at  Mhich  vessels  load.  Inside  (tf  the  saw-mill  point  is  an  excellent  anchorage 
in  seven  and  eight  fathoms.  Abcmt  a  mile  from  the  mill  is  an  anqde  watei -power, 
with  an  available  head  of  eighty  feet,  but  it  is  not  used. 

"  Xniiu-d  liy  tlit'  ITiiitcd  Stiitcs  I",xi>l(irinfj  I'^xiiiMlitioii  in  1iS4t. 

<  N:mii(l  \i\  \',ni("iivcT,  ]''.)•>. 

;Naiii('(l  liv  the  luitfd  Statrs  Coiist  .'^uvvrv  in  IS'iG. 


COAST  riLOT  OF  WASIIIXCTOX  TEniUTOllY. 


245 


6,  and  the 

the  Coast 
.'isco,  Tort- 
n  Inlet.* 


Point  and 
three  and 

rootly  into 
isihie;  and 
I,  and  oon- 
IVoiineiitly 
1  and  Tort 
south  by 
titude  470 
iles  about 


southeast, 
t  of  small 
I  tide,  but 
luddy  bot- 
()s  Ivocks, 
la  Point* 
I  sand  bar 
lile  south- 
1  inside  of 
anywhere 
rection  of 

is  sonth- 
■  is  tliree- 

the  saw- 
ncliorage 
ei-power, 


,  Of  all  the  small  harbors  in  these  waters  we  do  not  hesitate  to  give  this  the 
preferenec;  as  it  is  (•()iiii»h'te]y  laiid-loeked.  aud  protected  from  "jalcs  from  every 
quarter,  by  the  hij,'li  lantl  and  liij,'li  trees  around  it.  The  tirst  steamboat  built  in 
these  waters  was  lauuclu-d  here  in  1800. 

It  received  its  present  name  from  the  Cnited  States  Exploring  Expedition  in 
1841. 

The  first  rocks  otV  P.asalt  lie  at  the  narrow  mouth  of  a  sm  dl  boat  harbor 
called  :\rats-mats.     The  entrance  to  it  is  over  half  a  mile  long,  about  one  hundred 
yards  wide,  aud  at  the  sharp  turn  obstructed  by  rocks,  which  allow  a  channel  of 
only  three  feet  water.     Inside,  the  depth  ranges  to  two  fathoms,  and  the  extent  of 
the  harbor  is  about  three(piarters  of  a  nule  by  a  third  in  breadth. 

A  map  of  Port  Ludlow  and  Mats-uuits  was  published  by  the  Coast  Survey  in 
185G. 

ronx  GAMnLE. 

After  passing  Foulweather  Bluff,  keep  closer  to  the  eastern  shore  than  to  the 
western,  to  avoid  the  strong  current  passing  round  the  low  point  which  makes  out 
from  tlood's  Head.  \l\\i\  for  the  sawmill,  i)lainly  in  sight,  on  the  western  side  of 
tlie  entrance  to  the  bay,  and  when  within  a  nule  of  it,  approach  the  eastern  bluil' 
•within  the  third  of  a  mile,  in  about  ten  or  fifteen  fathoms,  gradually  drawing  closer 
in  shore,  ami  passing  between  the  outer  white  and  inner  black  can  buoys.  At  the 
lowest  tides  the  white  one  is  in  fifteen  feet,  the  black  in  twelve  and  a  half  and 
the  small  spar  buoy  between  them  in  mid-channel  in  seventeen  feet,  but  it  rarely 
shows  above  water  at  any  tide.  After  passing  these  buoys,  the  mill  bears  almost 
south-southeast,  half  a  mile  distant.  Steer  southeast,  or  half  way  between  the 
mill  wharf  and  the  east  point,  pass  to  the  east  of  the  white  spar  buoy,  which  is  in 
twelve  and  a  half  feet,  aiul  run  through  the  entrance,  passi  ig  the  wharf  at  I'bout 
one-third  of  the  distance  between  the  points.  Do  not  run  uj)  to  the  eastward,  as  a 
shoal  makes  out  almost  parallel  with  the  point.  It  may  be  here  noticed  that  these 
buoys  Avere  made  and  placed  by  the  Puget  Mill  Company,  for  the  benefit  of  vessels 
trading  to  the  port,  (1857.) 

If  the  wind  is  ahead  while  beating  up,  it  will  be  impossible  for  a  large-sized 
vessel  to  get  in,  as  the  channel  is  half  a  mile  long,  and  not  over  one  hundred  yards 
wide  at  the  narrowest  part.  Anchor  off  the  buoys,  and  droj)  in  with  the  early  flood, 
or  warp  in  with  the  last  of  the  ebb.  On  the  shoal  forming  the  western  side  of  the 
passage  ten  feet  may  be  found  until  up  with  the  white  spar  buoy. 

Inside  of  the  points  the  bay  appears  to  open  well  under  the  eastern  one,  but 
the  three-fatluMi  line  makes  out  on  a  line  with  the  end  of  the  point.  On  the  west- 
ern side  was  a  crib,  around  which  a  shoal  was  forming;  anchor  just  beyotd  it  in 
five  fathoms,  soft  muddy  bottom.  The  depth  of  water  throughout  the  bay  is  from 
fimr  to  nine  fathoms,  with  mud  bottom.  The  length  of  the  bay  is  two  and  a  quarter 
miles,  its  width  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  and  its  direction  soutlieast.  The  shores 
are  steep,  but  not  high,  and  are  bordered  by  sand  and  pebble  beach,  offering  capi- 


^m 


1 


24(5  COAST  PILOT  OF  WASIIINdTOX  TKHKITOUY. 

till  cliiincos  for  Inmliiif,'  n  vessel  ont.     A  hcttcr  i»ln('(',  however,  for  that  pnrpo.st!  ia 

;it  tlw  t'liil  of  the  store  wharf,  especially  for  v«'Hsels  with  lar;ie  dead  rise. 

In  summer  (he  wind  {jeiierally  blows  into  the  harbor  li-ihtly;  in  winter  tho 

southeast  }rales  draw  directly  out.     Loaded  vessels  must  warp  out  in  siimnuT,  or 

trust  t»»  a  li^^ht  soutlierly  air  in  the  morniii;,',  with  an  ebb  tide.     None  but  small, 

smart  working'  vessels  can  beat  out,  ami  a  iew  of  those  Ihue  done  so  within  the 

channel  limits. 

The  fj''*»fli'"l'l''*''»l  position  of  the  eastern  point  of  the  entrance,  as  determined 

I 
by  the  United  States  Coast  Survey,  is : 

o       '         " 

Latitude 47  51  .12  north. 

Longitude V12  .'53  50  west. 

h.      m.      n. 
Or,  in  time 8    10  L"i.7 

The  saw-mill  here  is  thelarj^est  and  most  effective  in  this  part  of  the  Territory, 
cuttiufj  at  the  rate  of  six  or  seven  million.^  of  feet  of  lund)er  per  year.  Attached 
to  it  are  lath,  shinj^le,  and  planing  machines.  A  large  quantity  of  the  lumber  and 
rough  sjKirs  for  masts  are  carried  to  Australia  and  the  Sandwich  Islands.  'SVithin 
twt)  or  three  seasons,  ending  with  that  of  LS57,  the  number  of  outward-bimnd  ves- 
sels trading  to  the  Sandwich  Islands  was  lifteen;  the  average  passage  twenty- 
six  and  a  half  days  ;  the  siiortest  i>assage  nineteen  days,  and  the  longest  thirty-two. 
From  the  islands  to  the  mill  the  number  of  vessels  arriving  was  sixteen  ;  average 
passage  twenty-live  and  a  half  days;  shortest  passage  fifteen  days,  and  the  longest 
thirty-five  days.  Of  thes(>  one  reported  a  passage  of  lifteen  days  to  the  mouth  of 
Fiica  Strait,  and  nine  days  thence  to  the  port,  in  the  earlypart  of  September,  h.iv- 
ing  encountered  nearly  continuous  calms  in  the  strait  and  inlet. 

From  this  place,  called  Teekalet,  (the  Indian  name  of  the  bay,)  aroad  is  being 
constructed  (I.S.">7)  by  the  .Mill  Company  to  Port  3Iadison. 

The  steam  and  smoke  from  the  saw-mill  are  distinctly  visible  from  part  of  Port 
Townshend,  over  the  low  ground  between  that  bay  and  Oak  Cove. 

It  received  its  i)reseut  iiume  from  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition  in 
1811. 

Tlie  Coas  ,  Survey  report  for  18.50  contained  a  hydrographic  sketch  of  Port 
Gamble, 

Thi'fc  miles  from  flood's  Head,  on  the  western  side  of  the  canal,  Suquamish 
harbor*  opens.  A  large  sand  bank  occupies  its  centre,  and  extends  a  mile  in  length 
north-northwest,  by  half  a  mile  in  width.  The  approaches  to  the  shoal,  which 
is  in  part  bare,  are  detected  in  thick  weather  by  the  lead,  the  soundings  decreas- 
ing regulaily  from  twenty  fathoms.  Keep,  however,  close  under  the  northern 
shore,  which  runs  two  miles  west-southwest  from  the  low  point  called  Termination 
Point* 

"  N.'iuK'd  liy  tlio  I'liited  States  l'2xploriiig  Expodif  ion  in  1841. 


COAST  PILOT  OV  WASFIINdTON  TKIMMTOUV. 


247 


Fourteen  miles  from  Hood's  Head  tlie  canal  eiirves  more  to  the  soiitlnvanl,  ami 
then  to  the  soiitlisoiithwest,  around  Ila/.el  I'oint,*  on  the  west  side  of  which  a 
Inifie  arm  of  the  canal  makes  north  for  ten  miles,  Itifurc^atin;;  near  its  head.  On  its 
•western  side,  the  eastern  si»iirs  of  the  Olymjnis  range  reach  its  waters,  and  form 
tlio  western  shore-line  of  the  canal  to  the  threat  bend.  The  shari*  IH'ak  named 
Mount  (!onstancet  attains  an  elevation  of  seven  thousand  .seven  hundred  and 
seven ty-seven  feet. 

Two  miles  south  of  Ilazel  Point,  and  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  camd,  is  a  tiiu^ 
harbor,  formerly  called  IMininish  JItobor*  but  the  name  has  been  chanped  by  set- 
tlers, who  have  lately  built  a  .small  .saw-mill  there.  It  is  fornu'd  by  SeaLock  Island 
on  the  west,  and  is  about  a  mile  long  by  half  a  mile  wide,  with  good  bottom  in 
from  ten  to  lifteen  fathoms,  the  depth  decreasing  to  the  head. 

kSoutli  of  th(>  harbor,  Llood's  Canal  is  slightly  contracted  in  width,  but  con- 
tinues in  the  same  general  dirci-tion  to  about  latitu(h'  17^-1'  north,  ("  Vancouver's 
farthest,")  where  it  takes  an  abrupt  turn,  and  stretches  ea.st  bynortii  half  north 
four  miles.  Tli«?  width  iu  that  part  contracts  to  half  a  mile,  and  the  shores  over- 
lap. From  tliis  it  takes  another  .slight  bend,  runs  northeast  by  north  eight  or  nine 
miles,  and  reaches  within  two  or  three  miles  of  the  northern  extremity  of  Case 
Iidet,|  an  arm  of  I'ugct  Sound.  A  large  lake  lies  between  the  iidet  and  tiie  canal. 
AVhen  Vancouver  reached  the  lir.st  sharp  turn  he  thought  he  saw  the  termination  of 
the  canal,  and  has  plotted  it  in  accordance  with  that  view  on  his  chart,  four  miles 
beyond  the  point  marked  "  Vancouver's  farthest"  on  the  admiralty  charts.  This 
was,  in  fact,  the  highest  point  to  which  he  carried  his  boat.s. 

The  name  Hood's  Caiml  was  given  to  it  in  1792  by  Vancouver.  Its  extent  of 
shore-line  is  not  less  than  one  hundred  and  ninety-two  nules. 

Before  quitting  our  uiulertaking,  we  are  induced  to  apjtend  the  following  mete- 
orological table,  as  it  will  give  a  good  ich'a  of  the  summer  climate  in  this  section. 
The  observations  were  made  in  the  waters  of  Fuca  Strait,  A<bniralty  Inlet,  and 
Paget  Sound,  the  instruments  being  kept  in  the  best  shade  practicable.  The  baro- 
meter was  an  aneroid,  read  at  the  hours  of  10  a.  m.  and  t  p.  m.,  except  in  heavy 
weather,  when  it  Mas  read  every  hour.  The  thermometer  readings  are  Fahrenheit, 
and  reduced  to  the  standard. 

*  Xaincd  liy  Vinirimvt'r  in  170"J. 

tN'aiiK'il  by  tlu^  I'liittd  .stutos  Const  .<urvi>y  in  ]<u>, 

t  XaiiR'd  l)y  tlio  Uiuteil  .States  Exi)loriiig  Expedition,  1841, 


tl 


w 


248 


COAST  riLOT  OF  WASniNGTO:N^  TEKItlTORY. 


Abntmct  of  mcteoroloffical  observations,  made  ■n  hoard  the  United  States  Coast  Suri'ey 
briff  Fauntleroy,  in  the  Strait  of  Juan  dv  Fuca,  Arehipelayo  de  Ilaro,  Admiralty 
Inlet,  and  Piiget  Sound,  during  the  summers  of  1855,  '5(),  «)irf'57. 


_ 

, 

t:   s. 

u 

.:: 

tc 

s 

u 

« 

o 

Z 

t,  = 

1855. 

3  « 
■s  ^ 

OS 

i  1 

v. 

« 

(« 

^ 

i 

-=*. 

tc 

'f 

?  5   t^ 

tl 

P 

a 

» 

» 

1 

3 

2  i-  .S 

& 

5 

o 

o 

o 

o 

o 

0 

In. 

-=■ 

.Tulv 

71.  5 

5H.  3 

90.  9 

29.9 

48.2 

9.  4 

33  7 

0.  44 

■z 

70.2 
65.8 

53.4 
52. 5 

83.3 
77.7 

24.7 
18.3 

49.8 
49.3 

0.6 

H.fi 

29.7 
20.0 

.13 
.91 

7 

= 

Three  weeks  in  Octolier 

03.2 

52.2 

76.7 

20.2 

45.3 

n.9 

27.6 

.38 

^ 

GrcaU)»t  range  of  tcmpcpatino  during  tln'  above  period,  45°.  6. 
Greatest  riiuf;e  of  liaronieter  fnir.i  .fune  24  to  Oetober  18,  =  0  92'inch. 
A  dry  8fa.son  ;  heavy  Hoiitbeust  j^alca  i  .  September. 


.: 

a 

. 

^     1j 

u 

1836. 

c 

1   3 
C  .5 

a 

S 

a 

if 

s 

'a 

a 

O 

It. 2 

o 

X 

"  I 

«  3 

o 

O 

c3 

tf 

tc 

1 

a 
I 

o 

o 

o 

0 

o 

c 

o 

/n. 

May :.... 

67.1 

48.7 

85.7 

31.1 

45.0 

7.4 

38.1 

0.53 

'g 

June 

69.0 

51.2 

84.4 

27.4 

4.').  7 

10.3 

34.0 

.53 

X 

Julv  

72.5 
72.2 

72.8 

51.7 
53.5 
51.1 

84.7 
83.7 
85.1 

29.7 
25.5 
27.5 

43.  . 

48.4 
42.0 

14.0 
10.2 
14.4 

41.3 
30.2 

:u;.  5 

.43 

..->6 
.69 

?, 

s 

o 

Greati'.st  raniie  of  temperature  durini;  tile  above  jieriod.  43^.  7, 
GreateBl  raii;;e  ,  1'  barometer  I'loiu  April  J.")  to  September  30,  0.85  inch. 
A  T^et  8ea.<«)n. 


I 


I 


1857. 


T. 

■/. 

-.s. 

a 

tc 

a 

M 

li 

a 

r    rt 

v« 

.« 

1  ?  a 

"x    S 

To 

tc 

If 

1  5 

^^ 

^ 

Three  woekH  in  May '  71.7 

June 7.-'.  2 

July    74.9 

Ati^Msl 73.8 

Se)ilem\ier 6.">.  5 

Two  woekH  iu  October (iO.  1 


o 
48.4 

o 
101.5 

0 

46.9 

o 
38.  5 

50.7 

90.1 

29. 2 

43.0 

51.0 

89.2 

20.  5 

46.9 

51. 1 

88.0 

2«.0 

47.1 

49.  8 

76.4 

23.  3 

4:>.  2 

48.9 

68.7 

10.3 

43.4 

18.1 
13.1 
9  3 
9.7 

8.5 
7.8 


m 


46. 0 
30.9 
33.1 
37.8 
30.8 
2.7. 1 


1». 

0.  .vj 

.(i2 
.44 
.46 
.73 
.65 


Greiite.st  raiiLie  of  temperature  iliiri  iix  tlie  altove  perinil.  63 -.0. 

Greatest  raii;;e  of  bai'omeli  r  from  May  12  to  Oelolier  13,  0.79  inch. 

A  I'.ry  ..(i.a.son,  anil  niaiked  liy  a  week  of  remarkal)iy  iiot  wertlii'r  at  the   do.se  of  May  ami  beKimuii^  of  June, 

The  working  svaaou  of  1858  was  wet,    The  working  season  of  1859  was  di;'. 


^ 


In. 
0.79 
1.19 
0.01 
0.08 
0.70 
0.74 


Coast  Surrey 
9,  Admiralty 


In. 

0.44 
.1:1 
.91 

MS 


I     In. 

I  0.53 
.53 
.43 
.t>6 
.09 


.a 
1^ 


r3 
i 


^ 

i 

.= 

.^ 

0 

a 

^ 

(§ 



In. 

In. 

0.  ,VJ 

0.79 

.(« 

1.19 

.44 

n.oi 

.41) 

0.08 

.73 

0.70 

.  (i5 

0.74 

JllIK'. 


(X)AST  P1I.()T  OK  WASIIINdTON  TIOIMflTOIJV 


1>41> 


TIk' !ull(»\viiiy  tiililt' will  yivt'  ii  lew  iulditioujil  ik'in.s  of  the  winttT  moiitli.s  of 
180()-'(;i. 

The  ohst'i'Viition.s  wciv  miult'  ut  ()1\  iiii>i;i.  ut  tlic  ollicc  of  tlic  surveyor  •;eiieral. 


IHGO.        ■        IRfil.  l.i(il. 

])(<'('iiilicr.     Jaiiiinrv.      I'lliinary. 


Mil  .timum  teniporaturo 

Jli'iiniiim  tiiiipiTiituro 

lie  11  liiiipcriitiirc ; 

Am  lint  111' snow  in  im-lirs /  \,, 

Anionnt  iil'niiii  ami  inrltcil  .sniiw  in  inilii  h '   . 

Da.VH  Oil  wliii'h  .snow  fell 

Days  ini  whii'li  .snnw  lay  on  tin'  ;;ionnil 

DayH  on  wliicli  rain  till ; 

Days  on  wliiili  no  rain  iVU i 

Xninln'V  of  tVoHty  niorning.-i j 

Niuiilior  of  clear  days i 


530 

49° 

53'^ 

33'^ 

14-' 

31° 

39-.7 

3f^..J 

43°.  3 

icnird. 

fi.4 

9 

ilo.    ... 

3.1 

R9 

ill) 

4 

Q 

ilo 

8 

4 

13 

13 

13 

IH 

19 

15 

11 

n 

4 

7 

a 

In  the  winter  of  lS(i(>-"07  the  followiufj  oh.sorvations  were  made  by  the  Ignited 
Slates  Coa.st  Survey  party: 


Novi'iiibcr  IHfili . 
December  l.-'lifi  . 
•Tannary  1807 ... 
Kelirnary  I.''ii7  . 
Mn-ii'li  1.j7  .... 
April  1807 


Clear    i    Kainy        Voj;  or    Incliesof 


days. 


days. 


mist. 


18 

34 

8 

8 


niinfall. 


9.  893 
8.  3ii0 
■...lOti 
5. 197 
0.  880 
3.  371 


34. 100 


Tlie  cerealia  generally  grow  well,  but  the  eliinate  i.s  too  cold  for  maize.  Dur- 
ing the  winter  a  great  anion'-  of  rain  falls — a^'  miieh  as  sixty  inehe.s — and  heavy 
w  'ather  prevails  ]H-ineipally  from  the  .southward.  It  is  never  cold  enongh  to  form 
thiek,  clear,  solid  ice,  which  has  to  be  brought  from  Kadiah,  Alaska,  for  tho  San 
FiHucisro  market. 

32» 


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254 


COAST  PILOT  OF  WASHINGTON  TEKMMTOHY. 


Tahk'  of  mdijnetic  casl  dcclinaliini  on  the  Faiijic  roast  of  the  I'litUtl  States  for  the 

year  1870. 


5^ 

I.oiijiitdilo  went  of  OriMMiwicIi. 

110^   113'  '  120°   133- 

i;w-' 

133^ 

14(P  1450 

130° 

133° 

160° 

165^ 

170° 

173' 

IHO" 



185° 

190° 

195^ 

o 
30 

.3 

.3i 
14 

12i   131   I'-'i 
13  i  13^   14 

I 

33 

1 
.  1 

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131   l4^ 

143 
13J 
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17' 

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17A 
1!) 

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171 

38 

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171 



40 

43 

i.-i  ;  18J 
1113  193 

31  ■  31 
aoi  1  0.11 

44 

40 

301   2(11 



1 

48 

313 

321 



, 

311 
33 

34    34  ;  34 

..4 

j 

17 

17 

18 

18J 

19 

19 

32 

23 

35 

37 

39 

10 
16 
16 
17 

m 

18 
19 
30 

14 
14 
14 
14 
14 
15 
16 
17 

13 
13 
13 
13 
13 
13 
14 

343   33i  i  33i   33.5 
2(ii   37  >   37  J   2- J 

38    38    88 

■ 31  !  303 

'.  .   . ;  :14 

; 

18 
SO 
20 
21 
31 
34 
30 
38 
30 
33 
34 

10 
10 
10 
10 

8 

54  .. 

334 

233 

231 

3(i 

3!) 

33 

34 

37 

39 

42 

31 
313 

3^1 
34 
27 
29 
31 
33 
33 
38 

8 

5C  i 

■"! 

(in  ' 

371   '-Mii 

303   -f'2 

33    31 
30    33 

33,1 
20i 
30 
33 

8 

<i3 

38 

64 

06 
68 
70 
73 



1     1 



..    1 i 



1 

40    46 

S3  1  4!) 

43 
43 

1    ! 

states  /or  the 


\  185" 

inoo 

1 

lUS'^ 

12 
12 
12 
12 

i:i 

10 
10 
10 
10 

II 

INDEX. 


Pn 


Admiralty  Ifcad .  - 
Adiiiiriilty  Inlft.. . 

Alliiiiii  Kivcr 

Alciitraz  Islainl    .. 

Aldiii'.s  Sl](ial 

Allan  Island 

Aliens  lianiv 

Aiscva  itivcr 


Anacapa  Island  . 

Anjiri  Islanil 

An;ic-li>s  I'oint  .. 
Anita  Km  k 


A|i|ili\  Tree  ('ovo 

Areata.    Tciwn  (if 

Arcliiiii'laeci  dc  llaro 204-21.' 

Arch  Itoi  k.  CiiaHt 

Arcli  Kock.  San  Francisii)  liay 

A  stmia 


Astnr  Pnint  . 
AtosCrn-k. 


pc. 

2:12 

2111 

02 

(lit 

2H 

210 

2:10 

12H 

;t:) 

0.'> 

If  8 

04 

2;i.". 

101 
221 
112 

IM 
l,-i4 
l.">;i 

4(1 


li. 


Haaddah  Point IH.T 

Bainbridjrc  Island 2:)(i 

liakcrs  liay 1.14 

I'.ali'li's  Pas.saRi' 241 

liald  Pat.' ■>* 

lialil  Peak 212 

liallast  Point 10 

Banco  Cortis 27 

Bank.  Constance.  Strait  .Inan  de  Knea. 204 

Bank,  Dallas,  oil'  Protection  Island I»;i 

Hank,  llein.  Strait  Jnan  (!.■  Knia 20:t 

Bank,  Miildle,  Strait  .loan  de  Fnea 204 

liank  oir  Point  ( irenville n:i 

liank  oil'  linpiinali  l!iv<r,  (Ile<cta) 127 

Bank,  Partrid;;e.  Strait  .loan  ile  I'nea 20:i 

Hank,  Salmon,  Strait  .loan  di'  I'nea 204 

Bank,  SlnrtH'on.  oil'  Kraser  Kiver 217 

Harof  llnnilioldt   Hay 08,0!) 

liar  of  San  Krancisi'd 00,  01 

BariMs  Islanil 213 

Harros  de  Znnijja 10,  12 

Basalt  Point 23:t 

Battery  Point 2:Ui 

Bnttlo  Kock I H 

Bays : 

Baker's 1  J'l 

Boecher 107 

BellinKliani 221 

Birch 2ir) 

Bodesa f''-'''^ 

Callani Vi 

C'nrmcl ■••'> 

Conimoiiccnieiit 240 

(Jordovu ■^■'■' 


B. 

Bays:  Pa'iP. 

Crescont If*8 

Cnseent  City 100,107 

Unwauiish 2110,2:17 

False 13 

I'lislnvater 188 

(irays IM 

I  lair  .Moon "'3.  'A 

Ilnmholdt 08-103 

Koos 121-124 

Loiiez 200 

Mendocino 02.  33 

Monterey 4(>-."iO 

Mini...! 217 

^nliny 233 

Xanainio 220 

Neeah 184-187 

Xew  Diiufjeness lOO-l'.ll 

NLsco If,') 

X<atli 170 

Parry 108 

Pedd'er 108 

Peli.an 109 

(Jnieksand 141 

J!oyal 200 

San  Die^'o 0-14 

San  Francisco .'i.'i-7r> 

San  Pedro 1;'-I7 

San  Siineoii 43-45 

Seniiahinoo 210,  217 

Shoal  water llil-ltifl 

Sir  l-'rainis  Drake's 77 

Sonlli Kii) 

StiawlHiiy 211 

Tillaniook 137-1 40 

Tomales 84,  Kt 

Triindail lo:i-IO,-> 

Tseless 234 

Wineloster 120 

■\'onn;^'s I''i4 

lieeeher  liay 107 

Heeihey  II. ad 100,  107 

H. ;;!;  l!...k 33 

H.-leh.r's  (  hannil 1 '>« 

H.lli-  Ito.k 200.  210 

H.U.vne  Islan.l 205 

Hillinyhain  Hay 221,  222 

H.'llii\i;hani  Cliann.l 210 

Hir.-,.  Hay 215,210 

liir.l  K.iek,  San  Francisco  Bay 04 

Bir.l  It.icks,  I!..Hario  Strait 209 

Hishop  K.i.ks 27-'29 

Bla.k  U.>ck 211 

Black  M.inntain 53 

Blak.'  Lsland 238,  239 

Hlak.ly  Harbor 237, -JIJS 

Blnkoly  Islan.l aU 


:>5i) 


INDKX. 


a 


I'll};,.. 

lllii.H- Itmk «•"' 

itiiiiit's  isiiimi aon 

liliinl  s  !{»(  kM !»."> 

lidclii:!!  liny HU-i'ri 

li.iilct'a  I  liiitl K").  H« 


•J  I -J 
17(1 


lliilllili'l'   Itcif 

Itniic  I'liiiit 

llnickiinicl;;.-  liliiir 

liril  M\l  '.ilmiilpia 'Jlf 

llrntcliv  Lcil;;c 

ISii<'ks|iiirt 

Hiiilil  <if  \Va»liiiisl"in  Ilailxir 

liii.lcl  hiUt 

liuiiVH ; 

(•(iliiiiiliia  Itivcr  liar I'lH.  l.'il 

(iiav's  llailiiir Ili'i.  Hi" 


•J(M) 

1(11 

I!)'J.  l!i:i 


Si.n  I'laiM  isci)  I!ar  . 

t'iii|Miiiali  JtiN'iT  Ita 

limrciws  Islaiiil 

Hiifili  I'liinI 


(;i 

•J  10 


('. 


CalHiiiiiia.    Origin  iil'  iiainc T,  H 

Callaiii  Hay Ir-T,  IfH 

(anal  iW  Han. •JOa-'JOf,  IKI 

(anil  liivir i''' 

IJl 
,  117 

lr--J 

i:.4 

l!t7 

-117 

,  I IJ 

,lt< 

181 

IH-i 

,!W 

Kill 


Cai"' 
Capi' 
("ape 
Capr 
Cai"- 
CaiM' 
('apt* 
Calif 
Capi' 
Cape 
Capi' 
Capi' 


r.lani'c) 

HoniUa  . . . . 
Itiiin^'lilnn. 
Clninli... 


DisapiKiinlnnnt II")- 

Kalcon Ill, 

I'alsi'  MfndiMino !I7 

Klal  111  y 1«), 

I'lalliry.     ISank  ni-ar 1HI, 

I'lirlnnaM.  i>v  Falsi'  Mouilniinii il' 

I'nnlwial liiT i;i-', 


Capili 


i'.i:i 


( 'ajir  ( ir.jii.iy 1-Jl 

Capi'  i.iMiknnt i;r.,  i;io 

(':',,!'  Mian-s lIMi.  137 

Capi'  Mrniliirinii O.Vil" 

Capi'  ( Irlia  il I  Hi,  1 17 

Capi'  rc'ipi'tna l'J7.  I'JH 

Caiii'  San  Martin II 


. .       1  l-J 

..       1112 

4.1 

'1.-. 

i;)i,  i;r. 
..     im 

..       201 


Capi' Si'liaslian 

Capi'  Sliiiahvairr 

Cai'inrl  l!ay 

Carniil  Ivivir 

Casiaili'  Iliail 

Challani  I'niiit 

Cliat liam  Islaml 

Clii'lialis  Kivir Ifi!),  17(1,  171 

Clii't Uii  I!i vi'i- 111-112 

Cliii k  I'ljint l.rJ-l.'-.:) 

Clark  Islanil 21:1 

Cliniati'  111'  Wa.sliiMKtiiii  Trrritory 2IH 

Ci.lumtiia.  lirilisti 218 

(,'iilnniliia  Itivi'r MH-171 

(j'liluinliia  Itivrr.  ilianiri's  in  rliannrl l.'i.'i-lfiO 

Ciiluniliia  liivir.     Entranii'  to 147-1'I8 

Ciilviis  I'as.iaiii' 2;)n,  240 

(.'iili'iis  Kiii'k.i 244 

C'lninnnrrmrnt  Hay 240 

Ciii. '  Islanils 221 

(jiinst.uiri'  Hank 204 

Copalks  Uivrr 171-172 

CuiiniUi'  UiviT 118-119 

Conlova  liav 805-808 


C. 

I'ng'"- 

Ciirli'M  liank 27 

(  iiwii  liin  Iliail 2(1.'. 

Ciiwlilz  KiM'r I,V.,  -^St 

Crcsri'iit  Hay   188 

Cri'.snnl  City  lliiy HW.  108 

Cri'si'int  ( 'ily  Iti'tf Kilt 

Cunrnts: 

Ailniirally  Hay 2:12 

Itidtli' 111! 

Canal  ilr  Ilaro 207 

Capi'  I'lalliry Ifl 

C.iliMnliia  Itiver 148,  1  m 

( 'iirli's  Slinal 28 

lli'stnuliim  Islanil 170 

Ciilili'ii   (iaii ti2 

(iray's   llarlinr Kid 

(Jul I'  111'  (;iiir;;ia 21. I 

lliinili.ilill   Hay 100 

Klaniatli  liivi'i- 105 

Kiii.s   Hay 122 

Niiilli  iirCiilnniliia  Kivir IIIO 

Xnrlli  111'  Ni'vairii  JJivir !12 

Point  Anna 01 

I'oint  Uryi's 78 

Point  Wil.iiin 1114 

INi.ssi's.sinn  Siinnil 'S'A 

Uai'i'   Uiii'kH 107 

lliiwirio  Strait 208,  210,  21 1,  21-j 

San  Kranrisro  Kntranir ti-J,  (i8,  (!!l 

Santa  liarliara  ( 'liaiinil 20,  2(i,  '27, 1)4 

Sliiialwatir  Hay IfiH,  104 

Strait  .Inan  ili'  I'lira... 18-2,  IK) 

Ciiylir   llarlinr ;i7 

Cypri'ss  Islaml 811 

D. 

Dallas  Dank ._. 1113 

Darcy  I.slaiiil .". 20,7 

Di'iat iir  Islanil 200 

Di'i'iptiiin  I.slanil 200 

Di'i'i'ptiiiii  Pass 209 

Di'rlinatiiin.  'I'ablr  iil' cast  nia;nn'tii' 254 

Di'i'r  I.a;;iiiin 2;14 

Di'iiis  Kiiik 210 

Drstriu'tiiiii  I.ilanil 174 

Disiiiviry  Islaml 201 

lliiulili'   HlntV 23,1 

l)ra;;iin  Itiiiks 409 

llrayliin  llarlinr 21fi 

Unman    Kurk 180 

Unnl/i'  Unik 180 

Unwamisli    Hay 230 

Uuxlmry  Point  ami  Hii  I' 75 

K. 

EaKli'  Harlior 237, 238 

KaHt  Point 207 

Kitiz  Honk 188 

Eel  Hivi'r 98 

EI  Ciixo 124 

Ehl    Islaml 16« 

Elk  Kivir 1  Ui 

Ellici',  I'oint 1.53 

El  Miiro 15,  42 

Ehvlia  Kivir 188 

Entrami'  Kink 208 

Entrami'  to  ( 'olnniliia  Uivrr 147 

Esiininianll    llarlmr 198 

Kstrri)  Amirirano 8(i 

EitiTO  (le  Liiuautoiir 77 


1*'.^ 


27 

21).-. 

i.v.,-M:t 

IHH 

KW,  Kit* 

KKt 

iiW 

IIG 

-Ml 

IHl 

Hf,  H!) 

M 

17(1 

tii 

I(i» 

215 

]()0 

105 

122 

Hi!) 

<.I2 

!)1 

7H 

lll-l 

2;(4 

li)7 

208,210,  an,  21-j 

(ii,  UH, «!) 

...  20,  Mi,  27,  ;m 

Kill,  1(,.| 

1H2, 1.-ll 

:i7 

211 

li).1 

205 

20!) 

20!) 

20!) 

254 

2;m 

210 

i71 

201 

23,1 

10!) 

210 

180 

180 

23(i 

75 

237,238 

207 

188 

08 

121 

llili 

IKi 

153 

15,42 

188 

208 

H7 

I!I8 

80 

77 


INDEX. 


257 


K. 

I'llKi". 

Kiirika.     Tnwnof 101 

KxplaimtiiivninarkH 3 

P. 

Kalsf  Hay 13 

IsiIhi-  IliiiijjnicHH  lla.v I8H 

KaUi'  Klaiiialh  IJIvri- KHI 

KalHc  .Mi'iKloi'iiiiiCaiu' 07,  !)8 

FalHi'  Tillanicuik  Ilrait Ml 

FanalliinrH  dc  liw  KiavliH 79-82 

J''aiiiitlri(iy  C'dvi" 23!) 

Fiai'liKH  Kiick 123 

Ktiii   (.'live 240 

J'iilalpi  iKlaiiil 20!) 

I'iii    Uock 117 

Kinnaiil  iHJanil 1!IU 

1'i.sliiii);  Ii(>ck« 00 

l''latt.iy  UockH 177 

Alcalraz  Island 03 

CajH'  I)iHa|>|M)iiitiii(>Iit M(i 

Flirt  I'liiiit (io 

Fia.11'1-  liivcr 219 

Xi'W  I)iin<;fiU'HH 192 

I'oiiit  lioiirta 57 

I'oiiit    ('(HU'('iicioii 22 

K(i(it'ii'"l"t,  I'oint  LoboK 58 

FdS-wliislle,  South  FanallDii 81 

Fort  I'oint 5!) 

Fort  KcwH 88 

F'ort  Vancouver l.'»5 

r<ailwiatlior  Bluft' 2:13 

Fox  Islaiiil 241 

Frawr  liivcr 318 

FroHh  water  Bay 188 

(i. 

(iarry  I'oint 218 

General  feat'ties : 

Admiralty  Inlet,  Puget    Sonnd.    an<l    Hood'.s 

Canal 222 

Caiic  Orlord  to  Cape  DiHappointment 142, 113 

Nortli  of  ('ai>e  Mendocino 118, 110 

Santa  Barbara  Channel 24-27 

Sonth  of  Monterey  liay 'i'-i-» 

Strait  Juan  <le  Fnea 182-184 

Geograpliieal  poHitionH.    Table  of 250-253 

GiK  Harbor 210 

Gibon  I51utf 105 

Gold  Ululf 105 

Golden  (iate 55,  lil 

Gordon  Kiver 195 

Gray's  Bay 154 

Gay'.s  Harbor Kiti 

Gneme.s  Island 221 

Gnlf  of  Georgia 215 

H. 

Hahainish  Harbor 247 

Hale's  I'assaKe 213 

Half.m(H)n  Bay 53, 54 

Hantbny  Island 211 

Haven's  A  nehoragc 90 

Hazel  I'oint 247 

HecetaBank 127 

Hein  Bank 203 

Henry  Island 20« 

Hood's  Canal 244 

Hood's  Head 244 

Hnmboldt  Bay 98 

33* 


r. 

Illinois  Itiver Ill 

Inlroibietory  remarks , :i 

Islands: 

-Miatiaz (13 

Allan 210 

.Vnaiapa 33 

Ani;el (i5 

Hainbriilge 23(1 

Barnes 213 

Bellevne 205 

Blaki 238 

lilakely 211 

BInnt's 203 

Burrow's 210 

( 'luitham aoi 

Clark's 213 

<  'one 221 

( 'ypress 21 1 

Darciy 205 

Diiatnr 209 

l)i<-e|)tion 209 

I  )est  ruction 174 

Disi'overy 201 

Eld Iflfl 

I'arallones 79-82 

Fidalgo 209 

Fisgard 199 

Fox 241 

dneines 221 

Ilautl)i>y 211 

Henry 200 

James 210 

Long 1115 

I.opez 208 

Los  Coronado.s (i 

Lunnni 211 

McXeil 241 

Matia 213 

Jlinor 202 

Orcas 212 

I'atos 207.213 

I'ine 105 

I'rotcction 193 

liiuind 105 

San(;ienn'nte 29 

Sand 1,52 

San  Juan 205 

San   Miguel 37 

San  Nicolas :t2 

Santa  Barbara ,38 

Santa  Barbara  Channel 18 

Santa  < 'atalina 30 

Santa  Cruz 34 

Santa  IJosa 3ti 

Saturna 207 

Sealiock 247 

Sidney 200 

Sinclair 212 

Skip.jack 207 

Smith's 202 

Stuart 200 

Suiia 207 

Tatoosb 178 

The  Sisters 213 

Trial 201 

Tumbo 207 

Vancouver 195 

Vashon 2,3!),  240 

Veudovi 231 

Wnaddnb 181 


258 


INDEX. 


I      ill 


I. 

ImIhiicIm:  Vaiic. 

WaldK.n W- 

WliiillMy lt«, 2a;»-a!4 

Viiliii  liiii'im ti."! 

ViMiiin   810 

.7. 

.luiiiiK  InIuikI am 

■lavii  n.ml '.'(17 

.hiiiii  ill'  I'ura.    StniitH  of lfj-2l."> 

K. 

Ki'Iptlelils  ill  Strait  nl'Jiinii  ilo  J'"iini 8(tll 

KiliMut  Ilailpiir 231 

Klaiiialli  IJivir 105 

Kiiltlab  I'Dint \^i 

KooH  Hay 131 

KiHiM  Ilrail 1-JI.  ia-2 

I,. 

Lnkf  MoiintaiiiH,  ((Cypress  Islaiiil) 211 

Lake  AVasliiiiytnn 2117 

Liailbcttir  I'oiiit Kil 

I^igbt'lioiisi'H  : 

Ailiiiiialty  Hiail,  or  Kc<l  illuft' 8;t2 

Aloatraz  iHlaml till 

I51mit'«,  <)!•  Smith's  THlniiii 202 

Capi'  Disaiipiiintnirnt 146 

Capi-  Cri'Koiy 131 

(,'api'  -Mi'iiiliKiiKi 90 

Vi>\H'  SlioahvatiT,  or  Toko  I'oiiit 103 

(.'rcsci'iit  City  Bay 108 

Ktliz  Hook 1?9 

Esqiiiniait  Harbor 19!) 

Fort  Point 59,00 

numbolilt  Bay 100 

New  UiinKCiiCKH 191 

Point  Boiu'ta 50. 57 

Point  Coucopcion 22 

Point  Loma 8, 9 

Point  PinoM 40 

Karc  Kocks 197, 198 

Kp(1  Blutr,  or  Ailmiraity  Hoail 233 

Santa  Barbara 19 

Sniitli's,  or  Bliuit'.s  Island 202 

Sontb  Farallon 80 

Tatoosh  Island 179 

Toki'  Point,  or  Cape  Sboalwator 102 

Ligbthonsos  authorized  by  Congress : 

Point  Ferniin 10 

Point   Ilnenemc 18 

Point  I.obos 57 

Ligbt-bouses  reeomniendcd : 

Anaeai)a  Island 34 

Capo  Orford 1 17 

Discovery  Island 201 

Point  Adams 143 

Point  Ano  Nnevo i)2 

Point  Arena 91 

Point  Santa  Cniz 51 

San  Miguel  Island 37 

Santa  Crnz  Island 35 

Lime  Point 61 

Long  Island,  Shoalwatcr  Bay 105 

Lopez  Bay 809 

Lopez  Island 208 

Los  Coronados,  Mexico 0 

Los  Angeles.    £1  piioblo  d« 16 

Lo»  Ksteros 42 


Page. 

Low  Point 1K7 

Lnninii  Island 811 

Lninini  Kock 212 


Mad  Uiver 

Magiietie  deelinatiiiu 
Magnetie  deeliimtior 


104 

854 
14 

40 
.50 

88 
93 


Table  of 

Line  of  eipial.  13° 

Line  of  i'i|iial.  14^ 

Line  of  ii[nal.  1.5' 

Liin'  of  ei|nal,  IIP 

Line  of  iiinal.  17'' 

Line  of  eiinal.  18' 109 

Line  of  ei|ii»l,  19' 124 

Line  of  eiinal,  20'' 13(i 

Line  of  eqtial,  81o 171 

Magnolia  Blntf 21)7 

Marrowstone  Point 232 

Alalia  (ironp 213 

Mats-mats  Harbor 245 

MeXiil  Islainl 241 

Mindoiino Bay 92, 93 

Middle  Bank,  Columbia  Kivtr 156, 157, 158, 159, 160 

Middle  Bank,  Strait  of  .Iinui  de  Fuca 204 

Jliddle  Farallon 81 


Alih' 


Jliiior  Island 202 

Mis.sion  del  Carmelo 45 

Mi.ssion  San  Buenaventura 17 

Mission  San  tlinin  CapLstrana 14 

Mission  San  Lui.s  Key 14 

Mission  Santa  Barbara 19 

Monument,  Bouiularyof  I'nitedStatesandMexico. .  8 

Monte  de  Buehon 42 

Alonteriy  Bay 40-50 

Alonntains: 

Alias,  Sii  ••■■  IS 45 

Baelie 51 

Baker 21.5, 231 


Baldi)ato 

Blaek 

Blue 

Buehon  

Cbathani 

Coneepeiou,  Sierra  . 

Constitution 

Douglas 

Erie 

Lake 

Jlagnire 

Montara 


54 

53 

78 

42 

194 

20 

213 

205 

210 

211 

196 

54 

Olympus 173 

Palermo 70 

Point  Reyes 78 

Rainier 183 

Saddle 163 

San  Pedro 15 

Santa  Lucia  Range 45 

Sierras  Atlas 45 

Sierra  (Joneepeion 20 


Table 

Mountain  Ranges : 

Sierra  Conee]ieion 

San  Fraiieisco,  or  San  Bruno. 

San  .Tuan 

Santa  Cruz 

Santa  Lucia 

Mud  Bay 


70 


20 


45 
217 


Mutiny  Bay 333 


INDEX. 


IHT 

ail 

'i\-i 

KM 

i-|4 

ISO 14 

14° 40 

ino 5(1 

18° ^H 

IT'-' |i;i 

IS" 1U!I 

l»° 194 

SO" 13« 

11° 171 

an 

a;w 

yi3 

245 

241 

92,  !»3 

6, 157, 158, 15!l,  ion 

204 

81 

59 

202 

45 

17 

14 

14 

10 

ilJIi'xico..  H 

42 

40-50 

45 

51 

215,2,31 

,^l 

52 

78 

42 

104 

20 

21.'i 

205 

210 

211 

106 

54 

173 

76 

78 

183 

163 

15 

45 

45 

20 

148,162 

70 

20 

■•.......  ,55 

17 

.55 

45 

217 

3J3 


X. 

Page. 

Xaniiiino  Hiiv 88" 

Namms.     Tho 241 

Na.sal  Kivir l''-'' 

Xataliat  r.aiiiiim •'••' 

Nawii--ali  Kiv.r 134,  130 

XiilH  Mill'  liivci' lill.  i;t5 

Nciiiiiiaiii'lii'  Uivcr 105 

Xcnih  liav l"-! 

Xclial.iii  Itivcr Ml' 

K.kasUiv.T K>3,134 

XistuKnal)  Kivor l^U 

Xcw  l)iiiif;i'ms«  Hay IW,  ll'l 

Ni'Wiiiarkyt '■■'■* 

Nis.1)  I!ay I''"' 

Xiwiiiallv -  '•' 

"Nodule  I'l'iiit -•■" 

Xoiinilav  KiM'k '^'- 

X.irth  iiay ^''" 

N'ljtlli   ntacli W 

Kmili  KaniUiiiicH ''^ 

Xdilli  V»U\t "■'- 

■Noyoii  RiviT •'- 

0. 

OakCVv.. 233 

Oliscivaldiy  Itocks l'-'"' 

(llympia "'•' 

Onas  Island -'- 

Oipgoli.     Coast  of 111-144 

Oiford  Ui'i'f ' "''■  "" 

( )ttcr  I'niiit '"•' 

(lntir  Tilcmapli  Station 02 

(hvcii  I'oiiit 1""' 

r. 

Palux  Kivfi- '"■'•> 

l>any  liay '"? 

T'artiidyo  Bank -'03 

Tatos  Islands 207,  213 

Tiapods '-'- 

V.ddcr  Bay ""^ 

l>clii-au  Ray 1"" 

Polly  Point -1* 

Picdias  Blanins ■!•' 

Pillar  Point,  Hall' inoo;  Bay 53 

Pillar  Point,  Strait  of  ,rinin  dr  Fupa If*7 

Pin.'  Islard '"''^^ 

Piscadin'  K^'or - 

Points: 

Adams '  ^■' 

Angi'los '  ^'^ 

Afio  Nuovo •'! 

Arena '-'O 

Arguollo ''^ 

Aetor I'''' 

Baaddah '''•'> 

Ballast '" 

Basalt -':» 

Battery 236 

Bolsa •'■''- 

Bonota ■'^ 

Briice -3'J 

Brown 100,108,100 

Busli 233 

Caruiel ■•■• 

Cavallos GC 

Challam 193 

Cliinook 152, 153 

Concepcion 22 

Conversion ' " 


Points:  Pngc- 

Corral  Tiirra W 

Cypr.sM « 

Diliancc 241 

Dialilo Ill 

Disiny 207 

I>Miiir 17 

Dnxlinry *•' 

Kasl...' 207 

Kdninnd 2;>5 

Elliott 2X. 


Klli<< 


lip. 


153 

10 

15 

59 

218 

04 

172 

Hanson 100-171 

247 

225 

18 

2.35 


I'lrniin  . 
I'ort  .... 
tlarry  ... 
(iorda... 
(innville 


lla/.l 

Hudson 

Ilniniiiie 

.Ictlrrson 

Koitlali li*-« 

I.iiwrenee 213 

I.iadlM't  tor I'll 

I, olios 57 

Lonia ^ 

I,os  KsteroH 12 

Low 187 

Alarrowstone 232 

Miranionti'S •'^ 

MiiK" '7 

yew 1-0 

Xodiilo 233 

Xo  I'oint 2:15 

Xorth fia 

Obscrvat.iry If'S 

Otter 19B 


Ov 


195 
203 

39 
218 

,53 


Partridse' 

Pi-d.rnales 

Pelly 

Pillar,  ITalf-raocn  Bay 

I'illar,              Juan  de  Fiiea 187 

Pinos  .            15 

Pnlly 239 

Pnrissii    "• 

liestoratioti 237 

Keyes 78 

Kolierts 217 

Kockv 1"  I 

Sal :«• 

Salt !'« 

Sandy 213 

San  Jose 62 

San  I,ni.t 11 

San  Pedro 51 

Santa  C'ru!; ■!<',  17 

Saueelito 60 

Sekou 187 

Sheringlmm l'-"> 

Slip 187 

St.  GeorRC 108 

Sur 15 

Tala 244 

Terniinatiou 246 

Toke 102 

Tomale-s 84 

Toiiguo 153, 154 

VlUage 213 

VincentP 1".  17 


A 


260 


INDKX. 


1     ,) 


P. 

I'olnli:  I'«m'. 

W.IN ai 

Went aifi 

Wliiti'liorn m.l 

Wilwm I!M, :«.-) 

Yomiik'k LVl 

I'lirt  Aiiuilis IHH 

I'dii  Disciivcrv l!i:i 

IN.lt  ( Jiiinlilc a4,'> 

Pill  t  I.im11(.\v 'iU 

I'dit  MiiclisHii 335 

I'cii  t  ( )i  1  liiii  .1 SK 

I'ml  OrlMV.l Ii:i 

Pint  Sail  .Iiiiiii H>5 

I'liil   ri)WiiMli('iiil 2*^4 

Piiillaiiil.     Tiiwii  of I'm 

PiisNCMsinii  Siiiiih! iKM 

Prcniiliii  111'  San  KniiifiHro 00 

Pri'sicliip  SliiHil 0:1 

PriHiiiiiTH'  HailMir 'M 

I'liili'cliiiii  Lslaiiil VX\ 

Tiiiitii  I'alsii 13 

Pimrl  Siiiinil 341 

Pnnta  ilr  Ari'iia 90 

I'niita  ilr  Ciiriiil  'liiira W 

Piiiilailila  llnlsa M 

Pnnta  ilr  !.i  Saiiia  Cniz 40,47 

Piinta  (Ic  Ins  Cuvallos 00 

Pnnta  ( iiirila iU 

Qnaitriinastri's  Thirliiir 241 

Qni'iiilivtlic  Hay 1*7 

(Jiu'-ni  nil 174 

linicUsanil  Hay 141 

JJiiinipir  Ptiiiiisnlil 195 

R. 

Kacf  Ilnilis 197 

Rain  at  San  FninoiHoo 71,  73,  73 

Ruin.  ■\Va.-tliintftiiii  Tcnitniy 349 

Rcil  Illnir.  HninlMililt  Hay ^H 

RcililiiiK  Ruck 105 

Reels  : 

C'rexeent  City.  (Ilragoii  Rookn) 109 

Diixluny .  — 75 

Orloiil lie,  117 

Rocne'.s  River 113 

AVrsts 307 

ReHtiiratiiin  Point 337 

Riiiron 07 

Rio  del  Pa,jaro 49 

Rivei'M; 

Alliioii 93 

('anel 187 

■  (,'nriiiel 45 

flielialis 109, 170,  171 

(Mictko 111-112 

Columbia 14,V171 

CopaliH 171-173 

Coqnille 1 1 P-1 10 

CowlitK l.V),  33;t 

Del  Pn,jaio 49 

Kel 9.1 

Klk lie 

Elwha ISS 

False  Klnniath 100 

. ,     I'Viither 75 

Fraser 218 

Gordon 195 

Ulinoin Ill 


K. 

Rlv(I«  Pnye, 

Klainatli |o.'> 

I.uinnii 313 

Mad 1114 

XiiHiil ii;.") 

XawiijiCali 134.130 

Xei  liisne 134,  i:i"> 

N'l  roiiiani'lie lii.'i 

Xelialein 1  in 

Xei>aH i:i;i,  134 

XeHtnjjdali 134 

Xoyon 03 

Palnx 10,-) 

PiHiadia' .VJ 

QnC-nii'itl 177 

Rnitne ll-j 

Rii.isiaii H» 

Saeianiento 74,  75 

.SalinaN 48,  49 

Salmon 103 

San  (ire«()iio M,  ,".3 

StiiKet 3.35 

SikliH 118 

.Shiviaimka ho 

Smitli'M Ill) 

rin|i>|inili 134 

AValalla 00 

Wliilaiiali 104 

Willamilte I.m 

Yai|uina 138 

Roeks : 

Anita 04 

Anil,  nortliei'ii  eoa«t 113 

Aiili,  San  I'laneiseo  H;iy 04 

Maltle 114 

'I'KK 33 

Ue 300,  310 

•  ad,  RoHario  Strait 300 

Rird,  San  Francisco  Hay 04 

Hislio]) 37-39 

Hlack 311 

BloHsoni 05 

lilnnt'.s 05 

California  coast.    Off 8:),  84 

ColvoH 244 

DeniH 310 

Drayton lOi) 

Diincaii IHO 

Duntze 180 

Kiitrance  208 

Farallon,  lictwcen  Roiith  and  iniddlo 79 

FearlcsH 133 

Fin 117 

Fisliin^ 00 

Flattery 177 

Lnmnii 313 

Mile 59 

Noonday 83 

North   Farallon.    Off 81,82 

Observatory 100 

I'eaiiods 313 

Piedras  Blanca.s 43 

Point  Arena.    Off 91 

Race 107 

Redding 105 

Sail 18B 

San  Luis  Oliiapo.    Off 40, 41 

San  lliKncl.    Near 37 

Seal T 58 

Shag 04 

Tichpnor'o 114 


ki*^-> 


\or, 

■■ir.t 

KM 

Kir. 

i:ii,  i:i(i 

i:m,  I.e. 

i(i,"i 

no 

i;ii,  134 

i:m 

!hj 

Ki". 

5j 

n- 

ii-j 

H!) 

7(,  7.-. 

IH,  (It 

!!»;( 

M,:<i 

A')5 

118 

89 

no 

vu 

!)0 

•■-.       1B4 

■  ■  -  •       1.1.5 

•  ■  • .       liiH 

(H 
■••       I  la 

04 
•-.       114 

;o 

■  aoit.aio 
■ • -     aoo 

«4 

...  iT-ao 

•  •   S),84 
■•       244 

■  •     aio 

■  100 
•-       180 

.       180 

■       308 

79 

•  ISA 

in 

DO 
177 

■  aia 

.".(I 

81,  82 

m; 

212 

4;) 

01 

1!I7 

10,1 

186 

40,  41 

.17 

58 

04 

114 


INDEX.  2B1 


R. 
Knrkn :  I'llUi'. 

Tillnniook  Iloiid     Off 142 

I  nit ami 

V 1 H a  1 8-aaa 

Wliili',  (PIpiIi'iih  niHiicuH) 4;i 

Williiiinwiii 210 

Z.K. 20.') 

RoKiic  Hivir 112 

Rnunc  liivciKi'cf 1111 

K(isiiii(.  Strait 208-21.'. 

Kdiiiid  ImIuikI.   lli.l 

Koyal  Ilay 200 

RuMHian  UiviT 80 

S. 

Sailing  ilircitioim  for  Snn  Friiiii-iMco  Bay (i7-(lii 

SalinaH  Itivcr 4f ,  40 

Saliiiiin  Hank 204 

Halt  r<iinl  .\mliiir»Kf! 00 

Han  Itinnnvc  111  lira  MisHii.n 17 

Han  <  'Icincnli'.    iMlanil  of 20 

Kan  Dic't;..  Hay 0-1 1 

Kan  I'ranciMcii  liar <iO,  lil 

San  Kianciscii  Hay  and  ApproachrH "..V*". 

.San  KraiH'iw  ci.    StaliHlirn 71-74 

Kan  ( Jnuiiric)  Hi  vrr .'.2,  .".H 

Kan  .1  nan  ( 'a|iiNlran(> II 

Han  .Iiian  Island 2(l."> 

San  I.iiis  ()lti»)iii '0 

San  I.niH  Uiv '  • 

San  Mitrnrl  Island ^17 

Sail  MiUH' '    UiiikH  near ;i7 

San  Nil  linlaH  Inland M 

San  Pedro  Hay l'>-17 

Kan  Siincc.n  Hay 4H-4."> 

Hand  Island '•■|2 

Kandy  I'lant 2IH 

Santa  Harbara  Cliannid.  Gcncial  tf  marks  on  islands 

in ai-DO 

Kanta  liarl.ara  Clianncl.  Remarks  on 18 

Hania  Harliara  Harl.nr 18. 10,  20 

Haul  a  Harliara.   l.sland  of :I2 

Santa  f 'atalina  Island :I0 

Santa  Cruz,  Harbor .''0 

Santa  C'rnz  Island ^H 

Santa  Cruz  Point ■">.  •'7 

Santa  Rosa  Island '!•' 

Hares  Iload '-•" 

Kat.dict  Ilrad '•J-''-« 

Hatnrna  Lslanrt 207 

Si  agpt  River ~''' 

Scarlioroiicb  Hill l"'- 

Keabock  Island 247 

Koal  Rooks •'''^ 

Keaaons  in  California 'l-'iS 

Seattle.    The  town  of 2H7 

Sebastian,  Cape "■- 

Sckoii  Point '''" 

Semialinioo  liay 216, 217 

SliaK  Roek *'■♦ 

Shelter  Cove »•''.  ^* 

Shcrinuliani  Point ""' 

Shoal  Biglit 209 

Shoals : 

Alliens 214 

BaiTOs  do  Zuniga 10, 12 

Cortes 27 

in  Str.iit  Juan  do  Fnca 203, 204 

offCnlil'ornia  Coast 83,84 

off  Sau  I  rancisco  Entrance 83,  84 

Presidio "'•  "^^ 


PaL'e. 

Hhoalwatir  Hay 101-1(1(1 

Hhoalwaler  Hay,     Entruiico  to IHD-KW 

.HItlncy   Island 90(1 

Sierra  .\ltiis i!i 

.Kiirni  I  oniepriiin 90 

SiiiradeSama   I-ilcla 45 

SiUbslilvir 118 

Siniiiiiiii  at  Santa  Harbara 21 

Siiirlair  Island 919 

Sir  I'laiiiis  llnike's  Iliiy 77 

Sisl,:s.  The 913 

Skipjack  Islands 207 

Slaviaiiska  River «» 

S!:i>  PninI 187 

Sniilli's  Island 203 

SiiiilirH  River 110 

.SiM.ke  Inlet lOfl 

South  Hay •«« 

South   I'arallon.     Light  and  I'oK-whisflo 70 

Statisties.    San  I'raneiseo 71-74 

Stearn  s  HliilV 170 

Sleilaiooin 241 

Strait  of  .Iiiaii  de  Kuea 182 

Sliawbeny  Hay 211 

Striped  Pi  ak 187,  188 

Smart  Island 200 

Sliii'geon  Hank 217 

Snbinarine  Valley  in  Miinteny   Hay 40 

Snbniarine  Valley  olV  Point   Ilneneine 18 

Siiiialiniiip 21)7 

Siii|nainisli  Harbor 240 

T, 

Table  Hlilft' M 

Table  Mountain 70 

Tala  Point 244 

Tatoiwh  Lsland 178 

Teekaht 240 

Telegraph  Hill 03 

Temiieratiiie.  California 73 

Termination  Point 240 

Tiehenor'sRoek 114 

Tides  at  Astoria l.'.1, 1,'>3 

Tiile.s  al  liiidega  Hay 88 

Tides  at  Cape  Disappointment 148 

Tides  at  Columbia  River l.'Jl 

Tides  at  Coiiuille  River 119 

Tides  at  Ciesient  City  Ray 107 

Tides  at  Ciiylers 38 

Tides  at  Humboldt  Hay 100 

TidesatKooH  Hay 123 

Tides  at  Monterey  Ra.v 48 

Tides  at  Neeali  Hay IS.!,  186 

Tides  at  N'ew  Dnngeness Ii.l2 

Tides  at  ( Mynipia 243 

Tidesat  Port  Orforil 115 

Tides  at  Port  To\nisend 2a.'>-230 

Tides  at  Restoration    Point 2;i8 

Tides  al  Sau  Diego  ]i.ay 11 

Tides  at  San  I'raneiseo  Har 60 

Tides  at  San  I'raneiseo  Hay 70, 71 

Tides  at  San  I.uis  ( lliispo  Ray 41 

Tides  at  Sau  Jlignel,  Cuyler  Harbor 38 

Tides  at  San  I'edro  Hay 16 

Tide.s  at  Santa  (,'ruz  Harbor 51 

Tidesat  Seniiahmoo  Ray 210,217 

Tidesat  South  Farallon 80 

Tides  at  Steilacoom 243 

Tides  at  Tillamook  Bay 139 

Tillamook  Biiv y~ 137,1.33 


262 


INDEX. 


T. 

Page. 

Tiliamook  Head Ul,  142 

TimborCovT 90 

TomnlcK  Hay  and  Point i4,  g5 

Tongup  Point 153,154 

Trial  iHlands 201 

Tiini<la(l  Hay  anil  Urad 103-104 

Tumbo  Island :a>i 

V. 

UniiKinai.  Kiver lv.4 

Unit  Rook 206 

Useless  Bay 234 

V. 

Vanrouver  Tsnind lOf) 

Vashon  Island 230,240 

Vendovi  Lslumi  221 

Victoria  Harbor 200 

A'illagp  Point 213 

Viti  Rocks 213,333 

Waaddah  Island 184 

Walallab  River 90 

Waldron  Island 207 


W. 

Pago. 

^^ashiugton  Harbor 193 

\>  a>  hington  Sound 204, 205 

■Waiiliington  Ten-itory.  Coast  and  Shore  of 145-248 

■\Va  tnior.fcli  Head 308 

AVest  Point 230 

West  Reef 207 

Wliidbey  Island 182, 233-224 

■Whilap-b  River 164 

AVliite  Roeks,  (Picdras  Illaneas) 43 

ArVillanictte  River 153 

■Williamson  Roeks 21u 

Winchester  Kay 126 

AVinds  on  Pacilic  Coast 69, 70 

Wreck 64 

y. 

Yaquina  River 138- 132 

Terba  Buena  Island 65 

Toung's  Bay 1 54 

Young  Island 210 

Young's  Point 153 

Z. 

Zero  Hock x05 


ll'l  V    ^ 


Page. 

193 

204,205 

■""•oof 145-2-18 

208 

236 

207 

1«2,  223-224 

164 

43 

155 

:io 

120 

69,  TO 

64 

128-X32 

65 

154 

210 

153 

-Ma 


